Author - Darren McLean

Falkland Islands Photo Gallery

A view of Gypsy Cove with the sandy expanse of Yorke Bay in the background.

Falkland Islands Photo Gallery

This is a Falkland Islands Photo Gallery from taste2travel.

To read about this destination, please refer to my Falkland Islands Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 36 years and, 242/251 countries and territories (189/193 UN countries), and seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


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Falkland Islands Travel Guide

"Welcome to the Falkland Islands" sign in Stanley.

Falkland Islands Travel Guide

This is a Falkland Islands Travel Guide from taste2travel.comF

Date Visited: November 2024

Introduction

Nestled in the South Atlantic Ocean, 482 km (300 mi) off the coast of Argentina, the Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas in Spanish) are a remote and captivating destination.

A Gentoo penguin at the New Haven colony.

A Gentoo penguin at the New Haven colony.

Whether you’re interested in history, outdoor activities, or simply exploring an unspoiled wilderness, the Falkland Islands offer an experience like no other.

Nature lovers and adventurers are drawn to the stunning landscapes—rolling hills, rugged coastlines, and pristine beaches.

A typical view of the treeless countryside on East Falkland Island.

A typical view of the treeless countryside on East Falkland Island.

Comprised of two main islands East Falkland and West Falkland, along with many smaller ones, this archipelago offers a unique blend of untamed nature, wildlife, and British heritage.

A display, commemorating the 1982 Falklands War, at the Falkland Islands Museum in Stanley.

A display, commemorating the 1982 Falklands War, at the Falkland Islands Museum in Stanley.

While the islands are known for their role in the 1982 Falklands War conflict between the United Kingdom and Argentina, today they are a peaceful and welcoming place, offering visitors a glimpse into a world that feels both remote and timeless.

This remote British territory has a population of around 3,662 people, with 81% of the population living in the capital, and only town, Stanley.

The diverse population, which comprises 50 different nationalities, is comprised of people from Europe, Asia, South America and beyond – all of which have been drawn to the islands in search of work opportunities.

Gentoo penguins at the New Haven colony.

Gentoo penguins at the New Haven colony.

While the human population is small, the islands are home to a bewildering array of wildlife, including 1,000,000+ penguins, with five of the world’s seventeen species breeding on the islands.

A male Upland Goose at Cape Pembroke.

A male Upland Goose at Cape Pembroke.

In addition to penguins, there is a dazzling array of sea birds and land birds along with three breeding species of pinnipeds– the Southern Sea Lion, the South American Fur Seal, and the Southern Elephant Seal.

What makes the Falklands so captivating is that, outside of tiny Stanley, the islands are (almost) completely devoid of human presence.

It’s one vast, untouched wilderness!

A male (right) and female Falkland steamer duck at Gypsy cove.

A male (right) and female Falkland steamer duck at Gypsy cove.

The real highlights of the Falklands are not to be found in urban Stanley, but further afield in the empty, deserted countryside.

It’s in the countryside that you’ll find rolling, treeless, peat terrain, as far as the eye can see.

The empty Falklands countryside supports almost half a million sheep, such as these seen at Goose Green settlement.

The empty Falklands countryside supports almost half a million sheep, such as these seen at Goose Green settlement.

This emptiness is the domain of approximately 490,000 sheep.

That’s 132 sheep for every human! The highest sheep: human ratio anywhere on Earth.

At the coast, the islands are lined by rugged, rocky coastlines and stunning white sand beaches.

These beaches are home to numerous penguin colonies which support the immense penguin population.

A Gentoo penguin at Yorke Point colony.

A Gentoo penguin at Yorke Point colony.

Everywhere I travelled in the Falklands, I had all these amazing attractions to myself.

It’s a real privilege to be able to visit a penguin colony as a sole visitor and photographer.

If you have ever dreamed of having a Sir David Attenborough moment, sitting on a remote sub-Antarctic beach, surrounded by a mass of penguins, then the Falklands is a place where you can realise that dream.

Just two of the one million+ penguins which nest each summer in the Falkland Islands - a pair of Gentoo penguins.

Just two of the one million+ penguins which nest each summer in the Falkland Islands – a pair of Gentoo penguins.

Of the few tourists who make it to this most southern of outposts, 95% arrive as day-trippers on Antarctic cruise ships.

The cruise ships typically spend about half a day in Stanley, with passengers coming ashore after breakfast and transferring back to the ship no later than 3 p.m.

If you have any interest in exploring a pristine wilderness which is brimming with wildlife and if you like hiking along empty trails and unspoiled, deserted beaches, you will need much more than half a day in Stanley.

I spent one week on East Falkland Island, venturing out of Stanley each day in my rental 4WD. This was however too short!

If I was to return, I would stay for two weeks and my recommendation for anyone planning a trip is to allow for 2 weeks to properly explore both islands.

Whether arriving by sea or air, the Falklands promise an unforgettable adventure that immerses you in one of the planet’s most extraordinary and remote destinations.

Highly Recommended!

Location

FIQQ 1ZZ, Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas) FIQQ 1ZZ, Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas)

The Falkland Islands are located in the South Atlantic Ocean, about 482 km (300 mi) east of the coast of Argentina.

They consist of two main islands, East Falkland and West Falkland, along with over 700 smaller islands.

The islands are situated about 1,200 km (750 mi) north of the Antarctic Peninsula and roughly 12,900 km (8,000 mi) southwest of the United Kingdom, which administers them as an overseas territory.

A view of the Falklands coastline near Gypsy Cove.

A view of the Falklands coastline near Gypsy Cove.

Geographically, the Falklands are characterised by rugged terrain, with rocky coastlines, rolling hills, and a cool, maritime climate.

The islands lie at approximately 51 degrees south latitude and 59 degrees west longitude.

Despite their remote location, the Falklands have strategic importance due to their position in the South Atlantic and have been the subject of historical disputes between the United Kingdom and Argentina.

History

The Falkland Islands have a long and frequently contested history. The unoccupied islands were first claimed by the British in the mid-18th century, but France and Spain both looked to exert their claims to the islands at different times.

To this day the islanders remain fiercely loyal to the British crown, but Argentina has consistently maintained a claim to sovereignty to the islands that they continue to this day.

In Spanish the islands are known as Las Malvinas.

In the middle of the 19th century, prior to the opening of the Panama Canal, Stanley was briefly one of the world’s ports as a stopping point on the trade routes between the Atlantic and Pacific around Cape Horn.

At different times the islands made their living from whaling and sheep farming in relative obscurity until the 1982 war thrust them into the world spotlight.

Typical housing in Stanley, Falkland Islands.

Typical housing in Stanley, Falkland Islands.

While peace has long returned to these sleepy islands, vestiges of that time are still visible and many islanders still have their stories from the war – while having their faces set firmly to the future.

Falklands War

Beautiful Yorke Bay was heavily mined by Argentine forces during the Falklands War.

Beautiful Yorke Bay was heavily mined by Argentine forces during the Falklands War.

The Falklands War, also known as the Falklands Conflict, was a brief but intense military conflict between Argentina and the United Kingdom in 1982 over the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, and South Sandwich Islands.

The Falkland Islands had been a point of contention between Argentina and the UK for nearly two centuries.

Displays at the Falkland Islands Museum in Stanley provide a comprehensive overview of the 1982 Falklands War.

Displays at the Falkland Islands Museum in Stanley provide a comprehensive overview of the 1982 Falklands War.

While the UK had controlled the islands since 1833, Argentina had claimed sovereignty over them, referring to them as “Las Malvinas“.

Tensions simmered for years, and in the early 1980s, Argentina’s military junta, led by General Leopoldo Galtieri, sought to assert control over the islands to bolster national unity and distract from economic problems and political instability at home.

A Wall of Remembrance, for those who lost their lives during the Falklands War, at the Falklands Museum in Stanley.

A Wall of Remembrance, for those who lost their lives during the Falklands War, at the Falklands Museum in Stanley.

On the 2 April 1982, Argentine forces invaded the Falkland Islands, sparking one of the largest major conflicts since WW2.

The British government, led by Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, viewed the invasion as an attack on British territory and sovereignty.

The UK immediately began organising a military response to reclaim the islands.

The UK deployed a naval task force, including aircraft carriers, destroyers, and submarines, to the South Atlantic to retake the islands.

Lasting 74 days, the conflict was the first military action since the Second World War that utilised all elements of the British Armed Forces.

After weeks of intense fighting, British forces encircled the capital, Stanley, and began a final assault.

The Argentine forces, exhausted and with dwindling supplies, were forced to surrender on June 14, 1982.

The conflict lasted 74 days in total, claiming 255 British casualties and 649 Argentine casualties.

The sovereignty dispute over the Falkland Islands remains unresolved, with Argentina continuing to claim the islands as its own.

Diplomatic efforts to resolve the issue have continued over the years, but the tension surrounding the war and its legacy remains an important aspect of the bilateral relations between the two countries.

People

The people of the Falkland Islands, known as Falkland Islanders or Kelpers, have a distinct identity shaped by their remote location and British heritage.

The population is relatively small at 3,662 people, with the majority residing in the capital, Stanley, located on East Falkland.

The population is very diverse with at least 50 different nationalities living in Stanley.

Some of the larger communities include around 200 Chileans and 200 Filipinos, most of whom work in the service industry.

A quirky summertime cafe, a double-decker London bus, sits in isolation on the other side of Stanley harbour.

A quirky summertime cafe, a double-decker London bus, sits in isolation on the other side of Stanley harbour.

The culture is strongly influenced by British traditions, but it also has unique local customs and practices developed over generations of isolation and self-reliance.

English is the official language spoken by virtually all islanders.

Religion plays a role in community life, with Christianity being the predominant faith.

There are Anglican, Roman Catholic, and other Christian denominations present on the islands with many beautiful churches to be found along the waterfront in Stanley.

The lifestyle on the Falklands is shaped by the islands’ remoteness and natural environment. Many Islanders are involved in farming, particularly sheep farming, which has historically been the backbone of the local economy.

In recent years, the economy has diversified, with fishing, tourism, and the potential for oil exploration becoming significant contributors.

The islanders are known for their resilience, independence, and strong sense of community.

Despite their geographic isolation, Falkland Islanders maintain strong ties with the United Kingdom and are proud of their British identity while also valuing their unique way of life.

Fauna and Flora

The Falkland steamer duck is one of only two bird species endemic to the Falkland Islands.

The Falkland steamer duck is one of only two bird species endemic to the Falkland Islands.

While the Falkland Islands have a long and interesting history and a rich cultural heritage, the real star attraction is the abundant wildlife.

Fauna

Home to more than a million penguins and almost no tourists, there are many incredible wildlife encounters to be found on the Falkland Islands.

Home to more than a million penguins and almost no tourists, there are many incredible wildlife encounters to be found on the Falkland Islands.

The wildlife of the Falkland Islands is quite similar to that of Patagonia.

The Falkland Islands have no native reptiles or amphibians, and the only native land mammal, the Warrah, is now extinct.

However, a large number of bird species can be seen around the islands, and many of them breed on the smaller islands of the archipelago.

Penguins

The Falkland Islands could claim to be one of the world’s great penguin capitals with as many as one million penguins nesting in the Falklands every summer.

Gentoo penguins at the Yorke point penguin colony.

Gentoo penguins at the Yorke point penguin colony.

These resident penguins represent five of the world’s seventeen species – King, Gentoo, Rockhopper, Magellanic and Macaroni.

Gentoo penguins at the Yorke Point colony.

Gentoo penguins at the Yorke Point colony.

What’s more, for the Gentoo, the Falklands are home to the largest population on Earth.

A nesting Magellanic penguin at Rookery Bay.

A nesting Magellanic penguin at Rookery Bay.

Unfortunately, during my visit, several key penguin colonies were off limits due to avian bird flu.

This included the colony of King penguins at Volunteer point.

Access to the colonies had been restricted to prevent visitors inadvertently spreading the disease through soil on their shoes etc.

Falkland Steamer Duck

The male Falkland steamer duck is easily identified thanks to his orange-coloured beak.

The male Falkland steamer duck is easily identified thanks to his orange-coloured beak.

The Falkland steamer duck (Tachyeres brachypterus) is a species of flightless duck found on the Falkland Islands.

The steamer ducks get their name from their unconventional swimming behaviour in which they flap their wings and feet on the water in a motion reminiscent of an old paddle steamer.

While the female Falkland steamer duck is easily identified thanks to her olive-green beak.

While the female Falkland steamer duck is easily identified thanks to her olive-green beak.

The Falkland steamer duck is one of only two bird species endemic to the Falkland Islands, the other being Cobb’s wren.

Upland Goose

An Upland Goose family at Cape Pembroke, with the female at left, male in the middle and chicks on the right.

An Upland Goose family at Cape Pembroke, with the female at left, male in the middle and chicks on the right.

The upland goose or Magellan goose is widespread throughout the Falkland Islands, Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego.

This species nests and breeds close to water (rivers, ponds, oceans) either on the ground or near it among vegetation, usually in grasslands or coastal meadows in the Falkland Islands.


Upland Goose Pâté 

A male (left) and female Upland Goose at Cape Pembroke.

A male (left) and female Upland Goose at Cape Pembroke.

One tasty delicacy unique to the Falkland Islands is Upland Goose pâté.

The Falkland Islands are home to a large population of Upland Geese which can be seen grazing throughout the islands.

Enjoying a portion of Upland Goose pâté at the Narrows Bar in Stanley.

Enjoying a portion of Upland Goose pâté at the Narrows Bar in Stanley.

Some of these geese find their way onto restaurant dining tables in the form of pâté.

I enjoyed a very fine serving of Upland Goose pâté at the Narrows Bar in Stanley.


Ruddy-headed Geese

A Ruddy-headed goose, with its distinct white eye markings, at Darwin settlement.

A Ruddy-headed goose, with its distinct white eye markings, at Darwin settlement.

Found throughout the southern regions of South America and the Falkland Islands, the ruddy-headed goose looks very similar to the female Upland goose.

The one key differentiator between the two species is a distinct white ring which surrounds the eye of the Ruddy-headed goose.

Confusingly, adults have the same plumage with their heads and necks being red-brown, while their bodies are different shades of brown. Their bill is black and the legs and feet orange.

Kelp Goose

A male Kelp goose at Gypsy Cove.

A male Kelp goose at Gypsy Cove.

Widely found throughout southern South America and the Falkland Islands, the Kelp goose feeds on seaweed and kelp.

Adult males are entirely white, but for a black bill and yellow legs and feet.

A female Kelp goose at Gypsy Cove.

A female Kelp goose at Gypsy Cove.

Adult females are much more striking with a pale brown crown and chocolate brown head, neck, and mantle. Their bill is pink and, like the male, their legs and feet yellow.

Snowy Sheathbill

A Snowy sheathbill, photographed at Cape Pembroke.

A Snowy sheathbill, photographed at Cape Pembroke.

I was happy to encounter a Snowy sheathbill at Cape Pembroke.

The last time I had the opportunity to photograph one was on a trip to Antarctica in 2016. 

The Snowy sheathbill is the only land bird native to the Antarctic continent and can be found on Antarctica, the South Orkneys, and South Georgia.


Click here to read my Antarctica Travel Guide.


Rock Shags

Rock Shags, nesting on a buoy at the New Haven ferry wharf.

Rock Shags, nesting on a buoy at the New Haven ferry wharf.

The Rock shag (Leucocarbo magellanicus), also known as the Magellanic cormorant, is a marine cormorant found around the southernmost coasts of South America and on the coasts of the Falkland Islands.

Like all cormorants, the Rock shag feeds by diving for fish.

The rock shag usually nests on ledges on steep, bare, rocky cliffs or, as seen above, on a buoy at the New Haven ferry wharf.

Long-tailed Meadowlark

A male <i>Long-tailed meadowlark</i> photographed at Gypsy Cove.

A male Long-tailed meadowlark photographed at Gypsy Cove.

The striking Long-tailed meadowlark is a common sight on the Falkland Islands and is easily spotted due to its flaming-red breast feathers.

The male (pictured above) is mostly dark brown with blackish streaking with a bright red breast and throat, while the female is paler in appearance.

Grass Wren

A beautiful Grass wren, posing for my camera at Gypsy cove.

A beautiful Grass wren, posing for my camera at Gypsy cove.

The curious, and photogenic, Grass wren is widely distributed throughout South America and the Falkland Islands.

Often when hiking, I was followed by Grass wrens who would fly around me, waiting to have their photos taken.

Striated Caracara

A Striated caracara which I photographed on the side of the road in the Falklands countryside.

A Striated caracara which I photographed on the side of the road in the Falklands countryside.

The Striated caracara is a bird of prey which is part of the Falcon family of birds.

Found throughout southern South America and the Falkland Islands, this bird of prey is an opportunistic feeder and can often be found feeding on carrion on the empty rural roads of the Falklands countryside.

Pinnipeds

Southern Sea Lions, relaxing at Stanley jetty.

Southern Sea Lions, relaxing at Stanley jetty.

The waters around the Falkland Islands sustain many animals, including a large number of marine mammals.

Three pinniped species breed on the islands – Southern Sea Lion, the South American Fur Seal, and the Southern Elephant Seal.

Whales

The nutrient-rich waters around the Falkland Islands are visited by a variety of whale species, including the southern right whale, the humpback whale, minke whale, fin whale, sperm whale and the iconic orca (killer whale).

Flora

There are no trees native to the Falkland Islands and almost everywhere is treeless.

Balsam Bog is a cushion plant which can be found growing in coastal areas.

Balsam Bog is a cushion plant which can be found growing in coastal areas.

The only places where trees can be found are in inhabited areas where people have introduced trees.

The coast of the Falkland Islands is often lined with clumps of tussac grass.

The coast of the Falkland Islands is often lined with clumps of tussac grass.

In the absence of trees, the vegetation of the Falkland Islands consists of grasses and ground cover plants such as Balsam Bog.

A view of sand dunes covered with tussac grass at Yorke Bay.

A view of sand dunes covered with tussac grass at Yorke Bay.

The islands are home to many different grass species, including tussac grass which is widespread along the coast.

A resting male Southern sea lion, loving his comfortable tussac grass bed at Cape Pembroke.

A resting male Southern sea lion, loving his comfortable tussac grass bed at Cape Pembroke.

The Southern Sea Lion especially likes tussac grass, where it acts as the ultimate sofa-bed for periods of relaxation on land.

Cape Pembroke is a good place to view Southern sea lions relaxing among the tussac grass.

Falkland 'Sea Pink' (Thrift Armeria macloviana) is a common sight around most Falklands coasts.

Falkland ‘Sea Pink’ (Thrift Armeria macloviana) is a common sight around most Falklands coasts.

Also, along the coasts, patches of flowering plants can be found.

A common sight along the coast, <i>Pale Maiden</i> is a native species of plant and has been voted the National Flower of the Falkland Islands.

A common sight along the coast, Pale Maiden is a native species of plant and has been voted the National Flower of the Falkland Islands.

These include Falkland ‘Sea Pink‘ and Pale Maiden, which has been voted as the National Flower of the Falkland Islands.

Flag

Flag of the Falkland Islands.

Flag of the Falkland Islands.

The flag of the Falkland Islands is a Blue Ensign, which means it has a dark blue field with the Union Jack (the flag of the United Kingdom) in the upper hoist-side quadrant. The Union Jack reflects the islands’ status as a British Overseas Territory.

On the fly side (the right side) of the flag, there is the Falkland Islands coat of arms, which features a shield with several distinct elements:

The upper part of the shield displays a white ram, representing the islands’ historical reliance on sheep farming as a primary industry.

The flag of the Falkland Islands, flying in Stanley.

The flag of the Falkland Islands, flying in Stanley.

Below the ram, there’s a depiction of the “Desire“, the ship used by English explorer John Davis when he is believed to have discovered the islands in 1592.

Below the shield, there is a scroll with the motto “Desire the Right“, which reflects the historical desire of the Falkland Islanders to be self-determined and retain their connection with Britain.

The flag symbolises the Falkland Islands’ British heritage, agricultural tradition, and historical significance. It is often flown by residents and at official buildings, reflecting local pride in the islands’ unique identity.

The Union Jack, flying in the Falklands countryside.

The Union Jack, flying in the Falklands countryside.

Of course, there are plenty of places throughout the Falkland Islands where the Union Jack can be seen flying.

An antique Union Jack at the Falkland Islands Museum in Stanley.

An antique Union Jack at the Falkland Islands Museum in Stanley.

 

Philately

Falkland Islands

Stamps can be purchased at the one post office, which is located on the main street in Stanley.

Stamps can be purchased at the one post office, which is located on the main street in Stanley.

The stamps of the Falkland Islands are known for their high quality, attractive designs, and themes that reflect the islands’ history, culture, wildlife, and natural beauty.

An old post box outside the Falkland Islands Museum in Stanley.

An old post box outside the Falkland Islands Museum in Stanley.

As a British Overseas Territory, the Falkland Islands have issued their own postage stamps since the 19th century, and these stamps are sought after by collectors worldwide.

The post office in Stanley offers philatelic sales.

The post office in Stanley offers philatelic sales.

The stamps of the Falkland Islands serve as a window into the islands’ natural beauty, cultural heritage, and historical significance, making them prized items for both casual collectors and serious philatelists alike.

The stamps of the Falkland Islands feature themes that reflect the islands' history, culture, wildlife, and natural beauty.

The stamps of the Falkland Islands feature themes that reflect the islands’ history, culture, wildlife, and natural beauty.

Common themes include wildlife and nature, historical events and figures, local culture and heritage, ships and maritime history.

Falkland Islands stamps are typically produced with great attention to detail and are printed by reputable printing houses, ensuring high-quality images and durability.

A traditional post box and phone booths outside Stanley post office.

A traditional post box and phone booths outside Stanley post office.

The designs are often colorful and artistic, with careful consideration given to the accuracy and representation of the subjects depicted.

Due to their limited production and the remote nature of the Falkland Islands, these stamps are highly collectible. Some older or rare issues can be particularly valuable to philatelists.

The post office in Stanley sells a selection of postcards and beautiful cards which feature the artwork of local artists.

The post office in Stanley sells a selection of postcards and beautiful cards which feature the artwork of local artists.

The Falkland Islands government continues to issue new stamps regularly, often in limited editions, which helps to maintain their appeal to collectors.

South Georgia and British Antarctic Territory Stamps

The Stanley post office sells stamps issued by the Falkland Islands, South Georgia Island and the British Antarctic Territory.

The Stanley post office sells stamps issued by the Falkland Islands, South Georgia Island and the British Antarctic Territory.

The post office in Stanley also sells stamps which are issued by the other British Antarctic territories, including South Georgia Island and the British Antarctic Territory.

Falkland Collectibles

Falkland Collectibles offers a complete range of Falkland Islands stamps, coins and bank notes.

Falkland Collectibles offers a complete range of Falkland Islands stamps, coins and bank notes.

If you are a serious collector of stamps, coins or bank notes, a visit to Falkland Collectibles is a must.

Surrounded by his treasures, the friendly and knowledgeable Phil Middelton, the owner of Falkland Collectibles.

Surrounded by his treasures, the friendly and knowledgeable Phil Middelton, the owner of Falkland Collectibles.

Located in the museum complex, next to the post office, this veritable Aladdin’s cave is owned by Phil Middelton, an avid collector who offers a comprehensive range of philately and numismatic souvenirs.

Online Orders

Of course, you don’t need to travel all the way to the Falkland Islands to buy stamps and coins.

You can place orders online via the Falkland Collectibles website or you can email Phil (philmiddleton@horizon.co.fk) with any enquires.

Currency

The official currency of the Falkland Islands is the Falkland Islands pound.

The official currency of the Falkland Islands is the Falkland Islands pound.

The official currency of the Falkland Islands is the Falkland Islands pound, which trades under the international currency symbol of FKP.

The currency is issued by the Falkland Islands government.

The Falkland Islands pound is pegged, at par, with the British pound sterling (GBP), meaning that 1 FKP is equivalent to 1 GBP.

The current series of bank notes will be replaced with new King Charles bank notes, which will be issued on Falklands Day, on the 14th of August, 2025.

The current series of bank notes will be replaced with new King Charles bank notes, which will be issued on Falklands Day, on the 14th of August, 2025.

The FKP is subdivided into 100 pence, similar to the British pound.

Both Falkland Islands pounds and British pounds are used interchangeably in the Falklands.

My uncirculated £5 Falkland Islands bank notes - in numerical order.

My uncirculated £5 Falkland Islands bank notes – in numerical order.


Note:

Falkland Islands currency cannot be exchanged outside of the territory. It is imperative that you exchange any unused currency prior to leaving the island. 


For those who collect coins and bank notes, Phil Middelton at Falkland Collectibles is your man!

Banking Services

This branch of Standard Chartered bank in Stanley is the only bank in the Falkland Islands.

This branch of Standard Chartered bank in Stanley is the only bank in the Falkland Islands.

There is only one bank on the Falkland Islands, a branch of the international Standard Chartered bank.

Located on the waterfront, next to the post office, the bank offers currency exchange and cash advances on credit cards.

I used a credit card to obtain local currency and asked for uncirculated bank notes, which the bank was happy to provide.

These notes were used to create the images used in this section of the guide.

There is no ATM at this bank. 

ATMs

The one ATM on the Falkland Islands is located inside the shop at Stanley Services - the only service station in Stanley.

The one ATM on the Falkland Islands is located inside the shop at Stanley Services – the only service station in Stanley.

There is just one ATM on the Falkland Islands which is located inside the shop at Stanley Services – the only petrol station on the Falkland Islands.

Stanley Services are located on Airport Road, opposite the wonderful Rose’s Coffee Shop (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more details).

Credit Cards

Credit cards are widely accepted on the Falkland Islands and rarely did I need to use cash.

Costs

The menu at Shorty's Diner in Stanley (prices in pounds - £).

The menu at Shorty’s Diner in Stanley (prices in pounds – £).

There are three major expenses involved in a trip to this remote British territory, the cost of the return airfare, the cost of accommodation and the cost of a rental car.

Since LATAM are a monopoly operator to the Falkland Islands, they can charge whatever they wish for the once-a-week flight. You can expect to pay between US$800 – $1,000 for the return flight.

Other travel costs on the island are comparable to prices in the UK.

Sample costs: 

  • Cappuccino at the Waterfront Hotel Café: £3.95 (US$5.00)
  • Bottle of water (0.33 litre bottle): £1.00 (US$1.27)
  • A bottle of craft beer from Falklands Beerworks: £3.90 (US$5.00)
  • Eggs Benedict at the Waterfront Hotel Café: £10.95 (US$13.90)
  • Soup of the day at the Waterfront Hotel Café: £5.95 (US$7.60)
  • A portion of Upland Goose Pâté at the Waterfront Hotel Café: £8.95 (US$11.40)
  • Lamb Pie, served with chips, peas and gravy at the Waterfront Hotel Café: £14.90 (US$19.00)
  • Cheese burger and chips meal at The Narrows bar: £9.95 (US$12.70)
  • Fish and Chips meal at The Narrows bar: £10.95 (US$13.90)
  • SIM card from Shaw Services: £30.00 (US$38.00)
  • Car hire (per day) from Falklands 4×4: £65 (US$83.00)
  • Litre of fuel at Stanley Services Garage: £1.31 (US$1.66)
  • Return LATAM flight from Santiago to Falkland Islands: USD$1,000
  • Budget room at Lookout Lodge (per night): £75 (US$95.00)
  • Airbnb apartment at Anchors Aweigh (per night): £135 (US$172.00)
  • A double room at Malvinas House Hotel (per night): £199 (US$253.00)

Internet/ WiFi

The office of Sure Services in Stanley.

The office of Sure Services in Stanley.

Internet/ WiFi on the Falkland Islands is provided by Sure Services who have their office on the waterfront in Stanley, next door to Government House.

SIM Cards

Sim cards can be purchased from the office of Sure Services in Stanley.

Sim cards can be purchased from the office of Sure Services in Stanley.

A SIM card from Sure Services costs £30, which includes £10 of credit.

This was more than enough to cover my data usage for my one week stay.

You can check the current ‘Pay-as-you-go‘ rates on the Sure Services website.

Shopping

Little Harbour Gift Shop

The Little Harbour Gift Shop is the newest of many fine gift shops which line the waterfront in Stanley.

The Little Harbour Gift Shop is the newest of many fine gift shops which line the waterfront in Stanley.

There are many fine gift shops along the waterfront in Stanley.

Located a short walk from the tourist office, the Little Harbour Gift Shop is the newest gift shop in Stanley!

The enthusiastic owner offers a selection of locally produced arts and crafts, some of which he has created himself, using bits of drift wood found on the beaches around Stanley.

Diddle-dee jam is something truly unique to the Falkland Islands.

Diddle-dee jam is something truly unique to the Falkland Islands.

The shop also sells jars of diddle-dee jam, a truly delicious spread which is made from the red berries of the diddle-dee plant, a common low-growing shrub in the Falkland Islands.

The ubiquitous diddle-dee is renowned for its bitter-sweet red berries; bitter when picked but deliciously sweet when made into jam.

I use to start each morning with diddle-dee jam on toast at my Airbnb apartment. A nice way to start each day!

Cute crochet penguins at the Little Harbour Gift Shop in Stanley.

Cute crochet penguins at the Little Harbour Gift Shop in Stanley.

The shop also offers a range of beautiful, colourful woollen products which are made from the softest and finest of Falkland Islands wool.

The Little Harbour Gift Shop sells a colourful selection of local woollen products.

The Little Harbour Gift Shop sells a colourful selection of local woollen products.

I purchased a woollen hat which kept me warm whenever the biting southerly winds picked up – which was often.

Very cute fridge magnets made from Falklands wool.

Very cute fridge magnets made from Falklands wool.


Falklands Wool

The majority of the 490,000 sheep on the Falkland Islands are Polwarth (an Australian cross of 75% Merino and 25% Lincoln). 

The majority of the 490,000 sheep on the Falkland Islands are Polwarth (an Australian cross of 75% Merino and 25% Lincoln).

Which place boasts the highest sheep: human population ratio? New Zealand, Australia or maybe the United Kingdom?

Actually, it is the Falkland Islands.

Sheep numbers currently stand at around 490,000 and, given the islands’ tiny population, there are about 132 sheep for every human inhabitant.

Sheep farming has always been the primary industry on the Falkland Islands, however, in 1982 a large proportion of farm animals were killed for food by the occupying Argentinian forces.

In 1992, a program was launched to import large numbers of sheep from Australia, with the majority of sheep being Polwarth (an Australian cross of 75% Merino and 25% Lincoln). This breed of sheep is known for its extra fine, super soft, wool.

Sheep always have right of way on roads in the Falkland Islands.

Sheep always have right of way on roads in the Falkland Islands.

When driving through the Falklands countryside, you need to remain alert for grazing sheep who roam freely and can dart across the road at any moment.

Cattle grids are a common feature on all Falkland Islands roads.


Falkland Islands Distillers

The distillery of Falkland Islands Distillers is located directly behind the tourist information centre in Stanley.

The distillery of Falkland Islands Distillers is located directly behind the tourist information centre in Stanley.

You don’t have to travel too far for a tipple in Stanley!

Located directly behind the tourist information centre at Stanley wharf, Falkland Islands Distillers has been busy producing local gins since its founding in 2016.

A selection of gins which are produced by the Falkland Islands Distillers using mostly local products.

A selection of gins which are produced by the Falkland Islands Distillers using mostly local products.

Owned by Richard McKee, the distillery produces two different gins – Darwin’s Botanicals Gin, which includes diddle-dee berries as one of its ingredients, and the spicier South Atlantic Kelper’s Gin. 

While bottles can be purchased at the distillery, you can taste the gin at any of the bars in Stanley.

Falkland Beerworks

The range of delicious craft beers which are produced by the folks at Falkland Beerworks.

The range of delicious craft beers which are produced by the folks at Falkland Beerworks.

The Falkland Islands boasts the world’s most remote microbrewery, Falkland Beerworks, which produces nine different types of craft beer – all of which are highly quaffable.

The headquarters of Falkland Beerworks in Stanley.

The headquarters of Falkland Beerworks in Stanley.

Owned by Jeff Halliday, each of the beers which are produced by Falkland Beerworks has its own distinct personality, with one beer being named after an unforgettable personality – the Iron Lady.

Craft beer from Falkland Beerworks is served at bars throughout Stanley.

Craft beer from Falkland Beerworks is served at bars throughout Stanley.

If you are visiting on a cruise ship, Jeff normally opens the doors of the brewery on ship days.

The brewery is normally open every Friday evening for a weekly happy hour.

If you are staying in Stanley, you can enjoy the craft beers at any of the pubs in town, with the Malvina House Hotel bar offering draught beer, while most other bars sell the beer in bottles.

Highly recommended for anyone who loves a smooth craft beer!

During my week on the Falkland Islands, I managed to sample the entire range of beers from the Falkland Beerworks.

During my week on the Falkland Islands, I managed to sample the entire range of beers from the Falkland Beerworks.

Brewery Contact Details:

Sightseeing

"Welcome to the Falkland Islands" sign in Stanley.

“Welcome to the Falkland Islands” sign in Stanley.

 

Falkland Islands Tourism

The home of Falkland Islands Tourism, the visitor's centre, at the wharf in Stanley.

The home of Falkland Islands Tourism, the visitor’s centre, at the wharf in Stanley.

The best starting point for any exploration of the Falkland Islands is the Falkland Islands Visitor Centre, which is located at the wharf in Stanley.

The Falklands tourism office provides a free map of Stanley and the Falkland Islands.

The Falklands tourism office provides a free map of Stanley and the Falkland Islands.

Besides selling arts, crafts and souvenirs, the visitor’s centre offers a free sightseeing map which feature a map of Stanley on one side and a map of the Falkland Islands on the reverse side.

If you plan on driving outside of Stanley, this map is indispensable.

The Falklands tourism office offers a range of informative brochures which cover the many walks to be found on East Falkland Island.

The Falklands tourism office offers a range of informative brochures which cover the many walks to be found on East Falkland Island.

The tourist office also provides detailed guides for the various walking trails which can be found throughout the island.

If you are spending any time on the islands, it’s worth first collecting a copy of all of the free brochures which are offered by the tourist office.

Falkland Islands Tourism Contacts: 

Stanley

This "Welcome to Stanley" sign is located at the entrance to Stanley, on Airport Road.

This “Welcome to Stanley” sign is located at the entrance to Stanley, on Airport Road.

Stanley is not only the capital of the Falkland Islands but it is the only town on the islands and is home to 81% of the entire population.

Stanley (also known as Port Stanley) is located on the island of East Falkland, approximately 55 km (34 mi) east of RAF Mount Pleasant airport, the international gateway to the Falklands.

A row of houses in Stanley.

A row of houses in Stanley.

A pleasant, clean, relaxed urban centre, Stanley has the look and feel of a quintessential British town with rows of houses which look like they have been transplanted into the South Atlantic from a provincial English town.

Falkland Islands Museum

The excellent Historic Dockyard Museum in Stanley should serve as the starting point for any exploration of the Falkland Islands.

The excellent Historic Dockyard Museum in Stanley should serve as the starting point for any exploration of the Falkland Islands.

The first stop for any visitor to the Falkland Islands, should be the excellent Historic Dockyard Museum in Stanley.

The Historic Dockyard Museum in Stanley contains many exhibits which tell the story of the Falkland Islands.

The Historic Dockyard Museum in Stanley contains many exhibits which tell the story of the Falkland Islands.

This engaging museum contains many exhibits which detail all aspects of life on the Falkland Islands, from social and maritime interest as well as displays of natural history and nearby Antarctica.

The Historic Dockyard Museum contains exhibits which are housed in several buildings which are arranged around a central courtyard.

The Historic Dockyard Museum contains exhibits which are housed in several buildings which are arranged around a central courtyard.

The museum complex is arranged around a central courtyard which is lined with a number of restored buildings including an old printing shed, blacksmith shed and more.

The many displays at the Historic Dockyard Museum cover the history, culture, fauna, flora and geography of the islands.

The many displays at the Historic Dockyard Museum cover the history, culture, fauna, flora and geography of the islands.

The tiny Teaberry Cafe (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below) provides sandwiches, cakes, pies, coffee, milkshakes and much more.

As a gateway to the most southern continent, the Falkland Islands Museum includes an extensive display on Antarctica.

As a gateway to the most southern continent, the Falkland Islands Museum includes an extensive display on Antarctica.

As a gateway to the British Antarctic Territory, the museum has a display which showcases the southern continent and even allows you to experience life in a wooden cabin during an Antarctic storm.

One of the buildings at the Falkland Islands Museum includes an old printing office with printing presses.

One of the buildings at the Falkland Islands Museum includes an old printing office with printing presses.

The museum includes the 1982 Gallery which provides a comprehensive overview of the Falklands War.

Antarctic Monument

The Antarctic Monument in Stanley is dedicated to British Antarctic Survey personnel who have died in the Antarctic.

The Antarctic Monument in Stanley is dedicated to British Antarctic Survey personnel who have died in the Antarctic.

A stainless steel, needle-shaped sculpture, the Antarctic Monument is dedicated to the 28 men and one woman of the British Antarctic Survey who have died in the Antarctic since the first permanent research base was established in 1944.

The monument is located on the waterfront, in front of the Historic Dockyard Museum.

Christ Church Cathedral

Christ Church Cathedral has the distinction of being the southernmost Anglican cathedral in the world.

Christ Church Cathedral has the distinction of being the southernmost Anglican cathedral in the world.

Christ Church Cathedral, in Stanley, is the southernmost Anglican cathedral in the world.

A view of the interior of Christ Church cathedral in Stanley.

A view of the interior of Christ Church cathedral in Stanley.

Built between 1890–1892 from the local stone and brick, the church features a pipe organ which was built in Ireland.

The walls of Christ Church cathedral are lined with memorials.

The walls of Christ Church cathedral are lined with memorials.

Whalebone Arch

Constructed from the jaws of two Blue whales, the whalebone arch monument is an icon of Stanley.

Constructed from the jaws of two Blue whales, the whalebone arch monument is an icon of Stanley.

Located alongside Christ Church Cathedral is the whalebone arch monument, which was made from the jaws of two Blue whales.

The monument was erected in 1933 to commemorate the centenary of British rule in the Falkland Islands.

Victory Green

A view of Victory Green with the two military saluting guns on the right.

A view of Victory Green with the two military saluting guns on the right.

Located across the road from Christ Church Cathedral, Victory Green is a pleasant waterfront park which features antique cannons, two military saluting guns and the wooden mizzen mast from the SS Great Britain.

The FIDF (Falkland Islands Defence Force) operate two saluting guns on Victory Green which are used to mark key ceremonial occasions and acts of remembrance.

On firing days, the guns are fired exactly at 12 noon.

The guns are Hotchkiss 3-Pounder Quick Firing (QF) guns manufactured in 1896 and marked with the Queen Victoria Royal Seal.

The guns arrived in the late 1990’s from Gibraltar to replace the previous guns that were in poor condition.

A view of the mizzen mast from the SS Great Britain which is installed in Victory Green.

A view of the mizzen mast from the SS Great Britain which is installed in Victory Green.

Also in the park is the wooden mizzen mast (i.e. middle mast) from the SS Great Britain.

The SS Great Britain was a steam ship which was constructed in 1843 in Bristol, United Kingdom.

The ship was badly damaged in a Cape Horn gale in 1886, and, after limping its way to the Falkland Islands, lay for many years at Sparrow Cove in the outer harbour of Stanley.

It was eventually towed back to Bristol where the ship was lovingly restored to former glory.

St. Mary’s Church

St. Mary's Church is the only Catholic church on the Falkland Islands.

St. Mary’s Church is the only Catholic church on the Falkland Islands.

St. Mary’s Church is a Roman Catholic church located on Ross Road, opposite the bank and the post office.

A view of the interior of St. Mary's Church.

A view of the interior of St. Mary’s Church.

A small wooden church which was consecrated in 1899, the church is the only Catholic church on the Falkland Islands.

During the Argentine occupation of the island in 1982, St Mary’s Church was the only church which was allowed to offer services.

1982 Liberation Memorial

The 1982 Liberation Memorial commemorates all British Forces that served in the Falklands War.

The 1982 Liberation Memorial commemorates all British Forces that served in the Falklands War.

Located on the waterfront in Stanley, near to the Malvina House Hotel, the 1982 Liberation Memorial is a war memorial which commemorates all British Forces that served in the Falklands War.

The funds for the Memorial were raised entirely by Falkland Islanders.

The Memorial consists of an obelisk on the front of which is the coat of arms of the Falkland Islands surrounded by a laurel wreath above the words “In Memory of Those Who Liberated Us” and the date the war ended; “14 June 1982”.

On top of the obelisk is a bronze figure of Britannia, the female personification of the island of Great Britain.

The names of the 255 British military personnel who died during the war are listed on ten plaques.

The names of the 255 British military personnel who died during the war are listed on ten plaques.

The names of the 255 British military personnel who died during the war are listed on ten plaques behind the Memorial, divided into the service branches.

Directly behind the Memorial is a relief depicting famous moments during the war.

Margaret Thatcher Bust

Located on Thatcher Drive is a bust of Margaret Thatcher, who was the British Prime Minister in 1982, during the Falklands War.

Located on Thatcher Drive is a bust of Margaret Thatcher, who was the British Prime Minister in 1982, during the Falklands War.

A bust of Margaret Thatcher can be seen on Thatcher Drive which is next to the 1982 Liberation Memorial.

A bust of Margaret Thatcher is located on Thatcher Drive in downtown Stanley.

A bust of Margaret Thatcher is located on Thatcher Drive in downtown Stanley.

The resolve and determination of the then-British Prime Minister in 1982 were instrumental in winning the Falklands War.

“Their way of life is British; their allegiance is to the Crown. They are few in number, but they have the right to live in peace, to choose their own way of life and to determine their own allegiance.” Margaret Thatcher.

Government House

Located on the waterfront in Stanley, Government House is both the home and the workplace of the Governor of the Falkland Islands.

Located on the waterfront in Stanley, Government House is both the home and the workplace of the Governor of the Falkland Islands.

Located on the waterfront in Stanley, a short walk from the museum complex, Government House is both the home and the workplace of the Governor of the Falkland Islands.

Work on the house began in 1845 with the first resident Governor, Governor Moore, moving into the house in 1859.

Over the years, different Governors have added additions to the house which has resulted in a mixture of styles being used throughout the residence.

Sir Ernest Shackleton stayed at the house during his famous expedition and allegedly described his stay there as being ‘far colder than any time on ice‘.

Government House was the site of a major battle and surrender during the 1982 Falklands conflict.

The Battle of the Falklands Memorial

The Battle of the Falklands Memorial commemorates a WWI naval engagement between British and German forces.

The Battle of the Falklands Memorial commemorates a WWI naval engagement between British and German forces.

Located a short walk along the waterfront from Government House, this memorial commemorates a WWI naval engagement between British and German forces.

On December 8, 1914, nine British ships, refueling in Stanley, quickly responded to the sighting of five German cruisers that had surprised them earlier in southern Chile.

The British sank four of the cruisers in the battle, in which 1,871 Germans lost their lives. Just 10 British seamen were killed.

The memorial features an obelisk which is topped with a sailing ship set upon a globe.

The word “Victory” is set on the obelisk.

Solar System Sculpture Walk

Located on the waterfront in Stanley, the Solar System Sculpture Walk is a 1:1 billion scale model of the solar system.

Located on the waterfront in Stanley, the Solar System Sculpture Walk is a 1:1 billion scale model of the solar system.

Designed and constructed by local sculptor and artist Rob Yssel, this 1:1 billion scale model of the Solar System is made from recycled local materials and is the only one of its kind in the world.

All the planets are in line of sight and the sun sculpture is observable from every planet.

The model begins in Stanley and progresses out of town, along the waterfront.

Totem Pole

Originally created by military personnel in 1982, the Totem Pole indicates distances to various places in the world.

Originally created by military personnel in 1982, the Totem Pole indicates distances to various places in the world.

Situated on the Stanley by-pass road, en route to Port Stanley Airport, the Totem Pole is a quirky structure which indicates distances to various places in the world.

The Totem Pole is located outside of town on the Stanley by-pass road.

The Totem Pole is located outside of town on the Stanley by-pass road.

Erected in 1982, the Totem Pole was originally created by military personnel during the Falklands War.

Over the years, many people have added signs to the pole.

Outside Stanley

Gypsy Cove

A view of Gypsy Cove with the sandy expanse of Yorke Bay in the background.

A view of Gypsy Cove with the sandy expanse of Yorke Bay in the background.

At just 6.5 km (4 miles) from Stanley, Gypsy Cove is the most accessible wildlife site from the capital city.

This pretty white sand cove is home to a penguin colony and is part of Cape Pembroke peninsula which is designated as a National Nature Reserve.

A view of Gypsy Cove, which is located 6.5 km (4 miles) from Stanley.

A view of Gypsy Cove, which is located 6.5 km (4 miles) from Stanley.

The shy and elusive Magellanic penguin, which are known locally as Jackass because of their braying sounds, breed here, nesting underground in burrows.

Ordnance Point

This Quick Fire (QF) 4-inch naval gun (Mk IV) was installed at Ordnance Point in 1942.

This Quick Fire (QF) 4-inch naval gun (Mk IV) was installed at Ordnance Point in 1942.

A short walk along the coast from Gypsy Cove is Ordnance Point, which is named after a WWII gun which is mounted on a pedestal.

The gun is a Quick Fire (QF) 4-inch Mk. IV naval gun which was placed at Ordnance Point in 1942.

First introduced in 1911, this gun type served as the main gun on most Royal Navy and British Empire destroyers in World War I.

Hardasa Bay

A nesting Magellanic penguin at Hardasa Bay.

A nesting Magellanic penguin at Hardasa Bay.

Further along the coast from Ordnance Point, Hardasa Bay is an important breeding ground for Magellanic penguins who build their burrows under the clumps of tussac grass.

Just beyond Gypsy Cove, Hardasa Bay is a breeding ground for Magellanic penguins.

Just beyond Gypsy Cove, Hardasa Bay is a breeding ground for Magellanic penguins.

The Magellanic penguin is a summer resident at the Falkland Islands. It is found all around the coastline and nests in burrows in the peat adjacent to the coastline.

A Magellanic penguin, inside its burrow at Hardasa Bay.

A Magellanic penguin, inside its burrow at Hardasa Bay.

Elusive and shy, Magellanic penguins will rush into their burrows, or in to the sea, if disturbed.

They can be difficult to photograph!

I find it best to sit somewhere and wait for them to emerge, then take photos from a safe distance, without moving a muscle, lest they flee.

A male Falklands steamer duck photographed at Hardasa Bay.

A male Falklands steamer duck photographed at Hardasa Bay.

Like all other beaches on the Falkland Islands, Hardasa Bay is home to many different types of birds, including Falkland steamer ducks and Kelp geese.

A male Kelp goose, photographed at Hardasa Bay.

A male Kelp goose, photographed at Hardasa Bay.

Yorke Bay

A view of the beach at Yorke Bay, which was reopened in 2020 following years of de-mining efforts.

A view of the beach at Yorke Bay, which was reopened in 2020 following years of de-mining efforts.

Located alongside Gypsy Cove, Yorke Bay boasts a wide sweep of white sand, 7 km (4.3 mi) from downtown Stanley.

Most cruise ships pass Yorke Bay and Gypsy Cove on the way to dock in Stanley Harbour.

The bay is known internationally as a breeding site for the threatened Magellanic penguin.

Fearing a British invasion, Yorke Bay beach was heavily mined with hundreds of anti-personnel and anti-tank metal mines during the 1982 Argentine occupation of the Falkland Islands.

In the end, British forces eventually marched on Stanley from the landward side to the west instead.

Yorke Bay was only reopened in 2020 following an extensive de-mining process.

Yorke Point

Gentoo penguins at the Yorke Point colony.

Gentoo penguins at the Yorke Point colony.

The towering sand dunes at Yorke Point are home to a large Gentoo penguin colony.

A Gentoo penguin at the Yorke Point colony.

A Gentoo penguin at the Yorke Point colony.

The penguins inhabit the sand dunes which tower above the beach.

The gentoo penguin is easily recognised by the wide, white stripe extending like a bonnet across the top of its head and its bright orange-red bill.

The lipstick penguin - two Gentoo penguins at Yorke Point.

The lipstick penguin – two Gentoo penguins at Yorke Point.

It has pale whitish-pink, webbed feet and a fairly long tail – the most prominent tail of all penguin species.

With an estimated population of 600,000 breeding birds, Gentoos breed on many subantarctic islands.

The main colonies are on the Falkland Islands, South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands and Kerguelen Islands; smaller colonies are found on: Macquarie Island, Heard Islands, Crozet Islands, South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula.

A Gentoo penguin at the Yorke Point colony.

A Gentoo penguin at the Yorke Point colony.

Gentoos breed monogamously and infidelity is typically punished with banishment from the colony.

Like everywhere else in the Falklands, at the time of my visit, I had the penguin colony to myself.

Cape Pembroke Lighthouse

Cape Pembroke lighthouse is located on the most easterly point of the Falklands.

Cape Pembroke lighthouse is located on the most easterly point of the Falklands.

Situated just over 11 km (7 mi) east of Stanley, Cape Pembroke lighthouse is located on the most easterly point of the Falkland Islands.

Hiking to the lighthouse from Stanley takes around three hours.

Alternatively, it can be reached by vehicle, along a good gravel road in 10 minutes.

An automated 18 metres (59 ft) lighthouse on Cape Pembroke was built in 1855, and rebuilt in 1906, and was restored in the 1990s.

The tussac grass, which covers the slopes of Cape Pembroke, is a popular haul-out spot for resting Southern sea lions.

The tussac grass, which covers the slopes of Cape Pembroke, is a popular haul-out spot for resting Southern sea lions.

The slopes of the cape are covered in tussac grass which has been completely flattened by the many Southern sea lions who use this as a popular haul-out site.

A male Southern sea lion, resting in front of the <i>Atlantic Conveyor</i> memorial, at Cape Pembroke.

A male Southern sea lion, resting in front of the Atlantic Conveyor memorial, at Cape Pembroke.

A memorial to the Atlantic Conveyor, which was lost in the 1982 conflict, is installed at the cape.

At the time of my visit, a large male Southern sea lion was resting on the grass in front of the memorial.

The SS Atlantic Conveyor was a merchant ship requisitioned by the British military during the Falklands Conflict of 1982.

The ship was attacked by Argentine fighters and the resultant explosions killed 12 sailors.

Whilst under tow after the event, she sunk off the north eastern coast of the Falkland Islands.

Upland Geese chicks at Cape Pembroke.

Upland Geese chicks at Cape Pembroke.

Apart from snoozing Southern sea lions, there are many different bird species which can be observed at Cape Pembroke, including Upland Geese, Kelp Geese, Falkland steamer ducks and even Snowy Sheathbills.

Rookery Bay

A view of the very pretty Rookery Bay, which is a sanctuary for nesting Magellanic penguins.

A view of the very pretty Rookery Bay, which is a sanctuary for nesting Magellanic penguins.

Located a few kilometres from Stanley, Rookery Bay is home to a large population of Magellanic penguins who have built their burrows in the vast peat fields which surround the bay.

Magellanic penguins, emerging from the surf, at Rookery Bay.

Magellanic penguins, emerging from the surf, at Rookery Bay.

Magellanic penguins are notoriously shy and will flee whenever humans are present, either back into the sea, or into their burrows.

Before they emerge from the surf, they will scan the beach to ensure there is no one on the beach and that it’s safe for them to emerge.

Any sign of life, they will flee back into the sea.

I managed to get the photo above of two penguins emerging from the surf by hiding in a sand dune and using a 400-mm zoom lens.

A Magellanic penguin, sitting outside its nest, at Rookery Bay.

A Magellanic penguin, sitting outside its nest, at Rookery Bay.

On land, Magellanic penguins can be observed sitting outside their nests.

If you photograph them from a safe (long) distance, they will remain in place.

If you try to get close, they’ll flee into their burrows.

The photo above was taken with a 400-mm zoom lens from a safe distance.

The soft peat ground at Rookery Bay provides an ideal nesting ground for burrowing Magellanic penguins.

The soft peat ground at Rookery Bay provides an ideal nesting ground for burrowing Magellanic penguins.

Much of the coastline of the Falkland Islands is comprised of soft, peat fields and clumps of tussac grass. Both environments are ideal for burrowing Magellanic penguins.

The brown patches in the above photo indicated the entrances to underground burrows.

Formed by the trampling of many Magellanic penguins, a "penguin highway" at Rookery Bay.

Formed by the trampling of many Magellanic penguins, a “penguin highway” at Rookery Bay.

The world population of Magellanic penguins is estimated at between 2.2-3.2 million mature individuals.

The above photo shows a ‘penguin highway’ at Rookery Bay which has been created by many trampling penguins over many years.

Rock shags at Rookery Bay.

Rock shags at Rookery Bay.

Apart from Magellanic penguins, there are many different bird species which can be observed at Rookery Bay, including Upland Geese, Kelp Geese, Falkland steamer ducks and Rock shags.

A male Upland Goose, and chicks, at Rookery Bay.

A male Upland Goose, and chicks, at Rookery Bay.

Goose Green

A view of Goose Green settlement, the 3rd largest settlement on the Falkland Islands.

A view of Goose Green settlement, the 3rd largest settlement on the Falkland Islands.

Goose Green Settlement is a pretty hamlet which lies on Choiseul Sound, 80 km (50 mi) southwest of Stanley.

The road from Stanley to Goose Green is tarmac until the airport at Mount Pleasant (55 km), with the remainder of the journey (25 km) being on a well-maintained gravel road.

Goose Green lies 3.2 km (2 mi) south of Darwin Settlement with the two being connected by a road and a walking trail.

An old water tank at Goose Green Settlement.

An old water tank at Goose Green Settlement.

With a population of about 40, Goose Green is the third-largest settlement of the Falkland Islands, after Stanley and Mount Pleasant.

Importantly, Goose Green is one of the few places outside of Stanley where you have a restaurant option – the Woolpack Café which is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Please refer to the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more details.

Goose Green was established in 1875, as the site of a tallow factory.

Goose Green was established in 1875, as the site of a tallow factory.

Goose Green was established in 1875, as a sheep farm. Over the years, the population grew to 200 humans and more than 100,000 sheep.

This was all interrupted in 1982 when over 1,200 Argentine troops occupied the settlement and nearby Darwin.

Goose Green Village Hall, where Islanders were imprisoned when the Argentine Military Junta took over the Islands in 1982.

Goose Green Village Hall, where Islanders were imprisoned when the Argentine Military Junta took over the Islands in 1982.

During the occupation, more than 100 islanders were imprisoned in the local community hall.

On 28–29 May 1982, Goose Green was the subject of the first land battle of the Falklands War, as it was relatively close to the site of the British landings at nearby San Carlos.

That battle was won by the British who were then able to march onto Stanley, where they liberated the capital.

Goose Green Museum

The small (free) museum at Goose Green includes displays related to the Battle of Goose Green which took place during the Falklands War.

The small (free) museum at Goose Green includes displays related to the Battle of Goose Green which took place during the Falklands War.

A small museum at Goose Green commemorates this battle and includes informative displays which tell the story of the battles which took place in this part of the Falkland Islands during the war.

If the door is locked, the key to the museum can be obtained through the staff at the nearby Woolpack Café who will contact the custodian.

Displays related to the Falklands War, at Goose Green Museum.

Displays related to the Falklands War, at Goose Green Museum.

Today, sleepy Goose Green is home to 40 inhabitants and about 80,000 sheep.

Darwin

Darwin Settlement is named after Charles Darwin who visited the Falkland Islands and camped here in 1834. 

Darwin Settlement is named after Charles Darwin who visited the Falkland Islands and camped here in 1834.

Darwin Settlement is named after the famous naturalist and geologist Charles Darwin who made two visits to the Falkland Islands archipelago in 1833 and 1834.

Whilst carrying out a zoological survey of the islands on his 2nd voyage, he reportedly spent the night at the current settlements’ location.

A family of Ruddy-headed geese at Darwin settlement.

A family of Ruddy-headed geese at Darwin settlement.

Approximately quarter of a century after Charles Darwin’s visit, the settlement of Darwin was founded as a centre for cattle ranching. 

Some of the earlier residents were gauchos (a skilled horseman) from Uruguay.

Reminders of these early years can still be seen today with two sights of interest being the restored Stone Corral and the adjacent Galpon (barn). 

Over the years, Darwin expanded and was once the largest settlement after the capital Stanley with over 200 working staff on the payroll.

Due to a lack of space, the settlement was largely transferred to nearby Goose Green.

Today, Darwin is home to just 7 inhabitants!  

Relics from the Falklands War remain on the waterfront at Darwin settlement.

Relics from the Falklands War remain on the waterfront at Darwin settlement.

In 1982, the area saw heavy fighting during the Battle of Goose Green. On 28th May, British troops from the 2nd PARA Regiment took Darwin Hill.

Relics from the war can still be seen along the beach!

There are several war memorials outside the settlement which can be visited.    

Darwin Corral

A view of Darwin corral, with the restored <i>Galpon</i> building, which was used to house nineteenth-century gauchos.

A view of Darwin corral, with the restored Galpon building, which was used to house nineteenth-century gauchos.

The restored stone corral is a reminder of the days when Darwin served as a centre for the cattle industry.

Corrals can be seen in a number of places on the Falkland Islands.

Such corrals were built by early settlers who tried to make use of the wild cattle which roamed all over East Falkland Island.

These wild cows originated from sealers who would place a few beasts ashore to ensure that supplies of fresh meat were available when they next called.

The cattle bred until there were many thousands on East Falkland Island.

A view of the restored corral at Darwin settlement.

A view of the restored corral at Darwin settlement.

South American gauchos from Uruguay were bought to the island to work in the cattle industry. 

The gauchos were chiefly involved in organising the wild cattle herds, culling old animals, moving herds to Stanley for butchering and to various grazing grounds.

Corrals were necessary for keeping the cattle together during overnight stops on a long drive.

The Galpon building in Darwin Settlement was initially used to house South American gauchos.

The Galpon building in Darwin Settlement was initially used to house South American gauchos.

Located next to the corral is a stone Galpon (in English ‘Barn’) building which was home to nineteenth-century gauchos.

New Haven

Rock Shags, nesting on a buoy at the New Haven ferry wharf.

Rock Shags, nesting on a buoy at the New Haven ferry wharf.

The very remote and isolated New Haven is located on an inlet on East Falkland Island, facing Falkland Sound, the stretch of water which divides East Falkland from West Falkland.

The inter-island ferry operates an infrequent service between New Haven and Port Howard (West Falkland Island).

The ferry serving the route is the MV Concordia Bay, which is based at New Haven. For more on the ferry, please refer to the ‘Getting Around‘ section below.

Gentoo Penguin Colony

A view of the Gentoo Penguin Colony which is located next to the New Haven ferry wharf.

A view of the Gentoo Penguin Colony which is located next to the New Haven ferry wharf.

The main attraction at New Haven is an easily accessible colony of gentoo penguins which occupy a small pebble beach near to the ferry terminal.

Gentoo penguins at the New Haven colony.

Gentoo penguins at the New Haven colony.

Nesting in the Falklands takes place from November onward, with chicks arriving around Christmas and fledging in March.

A Gentoo penguin at the New Haven colony.

A Gentoo penguin at the New Haven colony.

Males and females co-parent, raising up to two chicks at a time.

Gentoo penguins at the New Haven colony.

Gentoo penguins at the New Haven colony.

One interesting fact about Gentoo penguins is that they are the fastest underwater swimmers of all penguins, reaching speeds up to 36 km/h (22 mph).

A Gentoo penguin at the New Haven colony.

A Gentoo penguin at the New Haven colony.

While gentoos are adaptable, they prefer rocky areas to form their rookeries, and make simple nests from pebbles.

Gentoo penguins prefer to nest on pebbly beaches.

Gentoo penguins prefer to nest on pebbly beaches.

Nests are usually made from a roughly circular pile of stones.

The stones are jealously guarded, and their ownership can be the subject of noisy disputes and physical attacks between individuals.

Yellow-billed Pintails, with a chick, in a pond near New Haven.

Yellow-billed Pintails, with a chick, in a pond near New Haven.

Also in the area are several fresh water ponds which attract other species of birds such as Yellow-billed Pintail ducks.

Accommodation

"Anchors Aweigh", my beautiful Airbnb accommodation in Stanley.

“Anchors Aweigh”, my beautiful Airbnb accommodation in Stanley.

Stanley

Anchors Aweigh

"Anchors Aweigh" - my Airbnb apartment in Stanley and somewhere I could easily live full time.

“Anchors Aweigh” – my Airbnb apartment in Stanley and somewhere I could easily live full time.

During my stay in the Falkland Islands, I stayed at the amazing Anchors Aweigh, an Airbnb property which was beautifully designed, stylish, warm, cosy, homely, bright and just perfect in every sense.

The apartment typically costs £135 per night on Airbnb.

A view of my amazing accommodation in Stanley - "Anchors Aweigh".

A view of my amazing accommodation in Stanley – “Anchors Aweigh”.

Hosted by the wonderful Celia and Mick (who live directly next door), I was made to feel welcome during my week-long stay.

The welcome started from the moment I arrived with everything included for breakfast the following morning, including a jar of diddle-dee jam.

The stylish bathroom at "Anchors Aweigh" in Stanley.

The stylish bathroom at “Anchors Aweigh” in Stanley.

Celia and Mick have spared no expense, with the most amazing design elements being incorporated into the apartment, including a digital shower control.

My favourite feature was a circular stain glass window which featured a golden sun.

"Anchors Aweigh" is located on Pitaluga Place, about 2 km east of downtown Stanley.

“Anchors Aweigh” is located on Pitaluga Place, about 2 km east of downtown Stanley.

While there are a couple of decent hotels around Stanley, I was always happy to return to my deluxe apartment each evening.

Anchors Aweigh is a rare gem and Celia and Mick are the most amazing hosts.

Highly recommend!

Malvina House Hotel

Boasting 70 rooms, a restaurant, bar, lounge and conference rooms, Malvina House Hotel is the largest hotel on the Falkland Islands.

Boasting 70 rooms, a restaurant, bar, lounge and conference rooms, Malvina House Hotel is the largest hotel on the Falkland Islands.

The 70-room Malvina House Hotel is Stanley’s premier hotel, and the hotel of choice for those who like to have the convenience of a bar, restaurant and lounge area under one roof.

Rooms can be booked on booking.com with typical summer rates being £199 for a double or £162 for a single.

Apart from offering excellent food in their restaurant, Malvina House Hotel also boasts the only cinema on the Falkland Islands – the 55-seat Harbour Lights Cinema which shows the latest Hollywood releases.

The bar at Malvina House Hotel.

The bar at Malvina House Hotel.

The bar at Malvina House Hotel is a great place to sample the offerings from Falkland Beerworks and the two different types of gin from Falkland Islands Distillers.

The Waterfront Boutique Hotel

The cute and quaint Waterfront Boutique Hotel offers six rooms and an excellent cafe and restaurant.

The cute and quaint Waterfront Boutique Hotel offers six rooms and an excellent cafe and restaurant.

Located on the waterfront in Stanley, a short walk from the wharf and the tourist office, the very cosy and inviting The Waterfront Boutique Hotel offers 6 rooms with a cafe, restaurant and lounge area.

Rooms can be booked on booking.com with typical summer rates being £230 for a double or £160 for a single.

While all the rooms are upstairs, the downstairs area is home to one of the more inviting cafes in the Falkland Islands.

Offering freshly baked cakes, breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, this is the go-to cafe for locals meeting up with friends or for the many passing cruise ship passengers who first come ashore a few metres from the hotel.

The lounge and dining area at the Waterfront Boutique Hotel in Stanley.

The lounge and dining area at the Waterfront Boutique Hotel in Stanley.

Each morning, the cafe offers a buffet breakfast which is very good value.

Their coffee and cake selection are especially popular, as are their homemade scones! How very British!

Shorty’s Motel

Located next to Shorty's Diner, Shorty's Motel offers six modern, comfortable rooms in the heart of Stanley.

Located next to Shorty’s Diner, Shorty’s Motel offers six modern, comfortable rooms in the heart of Stanley.

Looking like something which has been transplanted from the mid-west of the United States, Shorty’s Motel (telephone: +500 22861) offers six modern, comfortable rooms with en suite bathrooms.

Lookout Lodge

Located opposite the excellent Rose's Coffee Shop, the Lookout Lodge is a budget-friendly hotel in Stanley.

Located opposite the excellent Rose’s Coffee Shop, the Lookout Lodge is a budget-friendly hotel in Stanley.

Lookout Lodge is a budget-friendly hotel in Stanley, offering 60 rooms at £75 per night, which includes a cooked English breakfast.

The hotel is located across the road from the very good Rose’s Coffee Shop which is the most popular cafe in Stanley.

Darwin

Darwin House Lodge

Darwin House Lodge offers six cosy rooms in the Falklands countryside.

Darwin House Lodge offers six cosy rooms in the Falklands countryside.

If you wish to stay in the beautiful Falklands countryside, the inviting Darwin House Lodge offers six rooms and the only bar outside of Stanley.

A twin room at Darwin House Lodge.

A twin room at Darwin House Lodge.

Darwin House Lodge is located in Darwin settlement, which was named after the man himself – Charles Darwin!

During his epic voyage on the HMS Beagle, Charles Darwin made two visits to the Falkland Islands in 1833 and 1834.

Whilst carrying out a zoological survey of the islands on his 2nd voyage it has been reported he spent a night at this settlement, which now bears his name.

The sitting room at Darwin House Lodge.

The sitting room at Darwin House Lodge.

The remote location of Darwin House Lodge attracts a certain type of visitor.

During my visit, the manager had just finished setting up a room for an Amateur radio, also known as ham radio, operator who was checking into the lodge the following day.

The guest would use his room to conduct his radio business, making contact with other ham radio operators around the world.

The bar at Darwin House Lodge pays homage to the Battle of Goose Green.

The bar at Darwin House Lodge pays homage to the Battle of Goose Green.

More recently, Darwin Settlement was the sight of one of the key battles during the Falklands war.

Paraphernalia from the battle adorns the walls of the small bar at the lodge.

Eating Out

Naturally, the cuisine of the Falkland Islands is influenced by British food, with a focus on locally sourced lamb, beef, and mutton dishes, alongside fresh seafood like squid and toothfish (Patagonian Sea bass).

Dishes are often served with homegrown vegetables, and complemented by local berries like the “diddle-dee” berry for a unique island flavor.

In Stanley, restaurants and cafes offer traditional British fare like sandwiches, fish and chips, meat pies (made from local beef and lamb) and lots of delicious baked goods such as cakes and scones. 

For coffee lovers, there are plenty of cafes in Stanley serving good barista coffee.

Of the 200 Filipinos who live in Stanley, most work in the service industry, especially in the cafes and restaurants.

Stanley

The Waterfront Boutique Hotel Cafe

The warm and inviting café at the Waterfront Boutique Hotel in Stanley.

The warm and inviting café at the Waterfront Boutique Hotel in Stanley.

Most of my days on the Falklands started with a barista-made coffee at the café at the Waterfront Boutique Hotel.

A café latte and a delicious carrot cake at The Waterfront Boutique Hotel Café.

A café latte and a delicious carrot cake at The Waterfront Boutique Hotel Café.

The friendly Filipino staff serve some of the best tasting coffee anywhere in the Falklands.

The cafe is known for its excellent buffet breakfast and its very good brunch menu. I tried their eggs benedict which was very good.

Excellent fresh cakes and scones are also available which are ideal for ‘smoko‘ break which is a tradition on the Falklands.

The cafe serves lunch and dinner in a cosy and inviting atmosphere with views of the harbour which is located across the road.

Rose’s Coffee Shop

Located away from the waterfront, opposite the petrol station, the very good Rose's Coffee Shop is the most popular cafe in Stanley for locals.

Located away from the waterfront, opposite the petrol station, the very good Rose’s Coffee Shop is the most popular cafe in Stanley for locals.

While the cafes on the waterfront in Stanley attract visiting cruise ship passengers, the locals tend to gravitate to the very good Rose’s Coffee Shop which is located outside of the town centre, up on Airport Road.

The cafe is housed inside a homewares store which is across the road from the Stanley Services Garage.

Like all other cafes in Stanley, Rose’s Coffee shop is run by a team of hardworking, friendly Filipinos who provide good service.

The cafe is especially popular at lunchtime and offers hot meals, sandwiches, pies, sausage rolls and freshly baked cakes.

The coffee here is also very good.

West Store Café 

The West Store Café in Stanley is located within The West Store supermarket complex.

The West Store Café in Stanley is located within The West Store supermarket complex.

On the waterfront in downtown Stanley, the West Store Café is housed inside the West Store supermarket complex.

The West Store Café is located inside the West Store supermarket in Stanley.

The West Store Café is located inside the West Store supermarket in Stanley.

The cafe is run by a small team of Filipinos who serve breakfast, lunch and dinner along with coffee, pancakes and freshly baked scones (highly recommended!)

A traditional English scone with jam and cream and a cafe latte at the West Store Cafe in Stanley.

A traditional English scone with jam and cream and a cafe latte at the West Store Cafe in Stanley.

Teaberry Café

The Teaberry Café is located in the Dockyard Museum complex on the waterfront in Stanley.

The Teaberry Café is located in the Dockyard Museum complex on the waterfront in Stanley.

Located in the Dockyard Museum complex, the Teaberry Café is open every day, except weekends, from 07:30 to 15:00.

A very tasty lamb pie served for lunch at the Teaberry café.

A very tasty lamb pie served for lunch at the Teaberry café.

Like everywhere else in town, the cafe is operated by a team of Filipinos who serve excellent barista-made coffee, milkshakes, delicious lamb pies, sausage rolls and a good selection of packaged sandwiches.

During cruise ship days, the museum complex is a popular gathering place for visiting day-trippers and the tiny cafe is normally overrun by hungry tourists.

The Narrows Bar

An incredibly large lamb and ale pie at The Narrows Bar in Stanley.

An incredibly large lamb and ale pie at The Narrows Bar in Stanley.

The Narrows Bar is located on the waterfront, opposite a channel which is known as ‘The Narrows’, 3 km east of downtown Stanley.

This channel connects Stanley harbour to the open sea.

Artwork on the wall of The Narrows Hotel shows the different species of penguins found in the Falkland Islands.

Artwork on the wall of The Narrows Hotel shows the different species of penguins found in the Falkland Islands.

This spacious bar serves huge meals and offers a good selection of craft beers from the Falkland Beerworks.

At the time of my visit, the bar was run by a team of Uruguayan bartenders!

Since my Airbnb apartment was located a short walk away, I ate many dinners at The Narrows bar.

It also allowed me to slowly taste all of the craft beers from Falkland Beerworks (please refer to the ‘Shopping‘ section for photos of my degustation).

Shorty’s Diner

Shorty's Diner in Stanley is a popular, no-nonsense, eatery serving good food at decent prices.

Shorty’s Diner in Stanley is a popular, no-nonsense, eatery serving good food at decent prices.

Shorty’s Diner is very popular with groups of locals who gather to share reasonably price, hearty meals.

Shorty's Diner in Stanley is popular with locals who appreciate its unpretentious, reasonably priced meals.

Shorty’s Diner in Stanley is popular with locals who appreciate its unpretentious, reasonably priced meals.

This busy diner is run by a team of hard-working Filipinos who keep the food coming.

The menu features chicken, fish, steaks, pasta and much more.

Dinnertime at the popular Shorty's Diner in Stanley.

Dinnertime at the popular Shorty’s Diner in Stanley.

Shorty’s Diner is open 7 days a week from 09:00 to 20:00, with last orders taken up to 19:30.

Sticky BBQ ribs and chunky fries at Shorty's Diner in Stanley.

Sticky BBQ ribs and chunky fries at Shorty’s Diner in Stanley.

I especially recommend their sticky pork ribs and their fish and chips.

Malvina House Hotel

The restaurant at Malvina House Hotel.

The restaurant at Malvina House Hotel.

Malvina House Hotel boasts the largest restaurant anywhere in the Falklands.

The menu features burgers, steaks, stone-baked pizzas and a selection of Asian dishes.

If you wish to try Patagonian Toothfish (like a cod), the restaurant menu features Toothfish pâté, as an appetiser, and a main course of baked Toothfish fillet.

Goose Green

Woolpack Café

The Woolpack Café in Goose Green is one of the few restaurants located outside of Stanley.

The Woolpack Café in Goose Green is one of the few restaurants located outside of Stanley.

There are very few eateries outside of Stanley.

One of the only restaurants found in the countryside is the Woolpack Café in Goose Green, which is open every day from 10:00 until early evening.

This unpretentious, rural cafe offers daily blackboard specials, breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Video: Introducing the Woolpack Café in Goose Green.

Visa Requirements

The Visa Policy map of the Falkland Islands, which shows those nationalities (in green) which are entitled to visa-free entry.

The Visa Policy map of the Falkland Islands, which shows those nationalities (in green) which are entitled to visa-free entry.

The Visa Policy of the Falkland Islands is relatively straightforward, with specific rules depending on the nationality of the traveller and the purpose of their visit.

Visa Requirements

My immigration entry and exit stamps for the Falkland Islands.

My immigration entry and exit stamps for the Falkland Islands.

Visa-Exempt Countries: Citizens of certain countries (highlighted in green on the above map) do not require a visa to enter the Falkland Islands for short visits, typically for tourism, business, or family visits.

This includes citizens of the United Kingdom, most European Union countries, the United States, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand, among others.

Visa-Required Countries: Citizens of countries not on the visa-exempt list must obtain a visa before traveling to the Falkland Islands. This includes most countries in Africa, Asia, and some in Latin America.

Types of Visas

All visitors are required to complete a landing form when arriving in the Falkland Islands.

All visitors are required to complete a landing form when arriving in the Falkland Islands.

Visitor Visa: This is for tourists, business visitors, and those visiting family or friends.

The duration of stay allowed under a visitor visa is typically up to 30 days but can be extended upon application to the Falkland Islands Government.

Work Permits and Long-Term Visas: Those intending to work, study, or reside in the Falkland Islands for longer periods must apply for the appropriate visa or work permit. This process usually involves providing evidence of employment, sponsorship, or other supporting documentation.

All visitors are required to complete a Passenger Declaration card upon arrival into the Falkland Islands.

All visitors are required to complete a Passenger Declaration card upon arrival into the Falkland Islands.

Application Process

Visa Applications: Applications for visas should be made in advance through the nearest British Embassy or Consulate, as the Falkland Islands do not have their own embassies or consulates abroad.

The application typically requires a valid passport, completed visa application forms, proof of funds, and possibly an invitation letter or proof of accommodation.

Entry Requirements

Regardless of whether a visa is required, all visitors must hold a passport that is valid for at least six months beyond the intended date of departure from the Falkland Islands. Visitors may also need to show proof of return or onward travel and sufficient funds for their stay.

Special Considerations

Cruise Ship Visitors: Many tourists visit the Falkland Islands as part of a cruise. Passengers typically do not need a visa if they are staying for a short period as part of an organized tour. However, the rules may vary depending on the nationality of the passengers, so it is advisable to check in advance.

Military Personnel: British military personnel and associated contractors often travel to the Falklands for work. Their entry requirements are governed by specific agreements and protocols.

Overall, the visa policy of the Falkland Islands is designed to facilitate tourism and short-term visits while ensuring that those who wish to work or stay long-term follow the proper procedures.

You can check your visa requirements by consulting the Visa Policy of the Falkland Islands.

Getting There

While very few tourists make it to this remote, sub-Antarctic, territory, 95% of arrivals visit as part of an Antarctic cruise, which normally allows passengers half a day to explore the sights of Stanley.

During my stay in Stanley, cruise ships arrived most days with passengers being ferried to shore, in tenders, after breakfast. The last transfer back to the boat was usually around 14:30 with the boat setting sail at 15:00.

If you wish to properly explore and experience the magical Falkland Islands, the only option is to fly there! Half a day in Stanley is not sufficient! 

Air

The "Welcome to the Falkland Islands" sign, which is posted outside the Mount Pleasant airport terminal.

The “Welcome to the Falkland Islands” sign, which is posted outside the Mount Pleasant airport terminal.

There are two airports on the Falkland Islands:

Mount Pleasant Airport

RAF Mount Pleasant (IATA: MPN), also known as Mount Pleasant Airport, is a Royal Air Force station and the only airport serving the Falkland Islands.

The airfield goes by the motto of “Defend the right” (while the motto of the islands is “Desire the right“) and is part of the British Forces South Atlantic Islands (BFSAI).

Home to between 1,000 and 2,000 British military personnel, it is located 33 miles (53 km) southwest of Stanley.

Mount Pleasant was opened by Prince Andrew on 12 May 1985, becoming fully operational the following year.

The station was constructed as part of British efforts to strengthen the defence of the Falkland Islands following the Falklands War.

Commerical Flights to Mount Pleasant Airport

For non-military visitors, the only option for reaching the Falkland Islands is on the weekly LATAM Chile flight.

This meandering flight (LA 897) departs from Santiago International Airport (IATA: SCL) every Saturday, making two brief transit stops in Punta Arenas (Chile) and Rio Gallegos (Argentina) before arriving at Mount Pleasant Airport.

Flight LA 897 departs Santiago at 06:50, arriving on the Falkland Islands at 14:54.

The same plane then returns to Santiago, as flight LA 896, making the same two transit stops, arriving in Santiago just before midnight on the same day.

The flight schedule for flight LA 897 is as follows:

LATAM Chile Flight Schedule to the Falkland Islands

LATAM Chile Flight Schedule to the Falkland Islands

Chilean Immigration Formalities

It’s important to note that LATAM flights between Santiago and the Falkland Islands operate as a domestic flight between Santiago Airport and Punta Arenas Airport (IATA: PUQ).

For this reason, the flight from Santiago to the Falkland Islands departs from the domestic terminal – Terminal 1 (T1), not the international terminal – terminal 2 (T2)!   

All exit formalities from Chile are performed at Punta Arenas Airport.

All passengers travelling on to the Falkland Islands must deplane at PUQ and proceed through immigration where passports will be stamped with a Chilean exit stamp.

Likewise, when arriving from the Falkland Islands, all passengers must deplane at PUQ and proceed to immigration to have their passports stamped with a Chilean entry stamp.

All checked bags must be claimed at PUQ for customs clearance, then rechecked at the check-in counter for the onward flight to Santiago.


Note:

Anyone who requires a visa to enter Chile, which includes Australian passport holders, will need to be in possession of a multiple-entry visa for Chile, otherwise a 2nd entry into Chile, on the return trip from the Falkland Islands, will not be possible. 


Military Flights to Mount Pleasant Airport

The Royal Air Force operates flights between RAF Mount Pleasant and RAF Brize Norton in Oxfordshire, England, with a refuelling stop at RAF Ascension Island.

This service is called the South Atlantic Airbridge and is operated by a private company called Air Tanker.

The Airbridge carries a mix of passengers, including civilians, military personnel, and contractors. 

The usual weekly schedule is:

  • RAF Brize Norton to Mount Pleasant Complex – Monday and Thursday.
  • Mount Pleasant Complex to RAF Brize Norton- Tuesday and Friday.

Departure Tax

All departing airport passengers must pay a departure tax of £30.

All departing airport passengers must pay a departure tax of £30.

All passengers departing through RAF Mount Pleasant Airport must pay a departure tax of £30 at the airport.

This can be paid in cash or via a credit card.

Airport Transport

Shuttle buses from the airport are operated by Penguin Travel.

Shuttle buses from the airport are operated by Penguin Travel.

Almost all airport passengers travel between the airport and Stanley on shuttle buses which are operated exclusively by Penguin Travel which is part of the Falkland Islands Company (FIC).

The journey time between the airport and Stanley is approximately one hour.

The shuttle buses drop-off and pick up passengers at their accommodation and charge £22 per seat.

Reservations, which must be made in advance, can be made through your accommodation provider or by emailing penguin.travel@fic.co.fk

You can also contact Penguin Travel by telephoning +500 27632 or using WhatsApp +500 51546.

You can make payment for the airport shuttle at the Penguin Travel office which is located inside the West Store supermarket complex in Stanley.

Because the airport is on a restricted military base, taxis are not available and rental cars cannot be collected from the airport.

Rather annoyingly, on the day of departure, the shuttle bus will collect you from your hotel about 8 hours before your flight departure.

This is due to the fact that the airport requires passengers to check-in 6 hours before the flight!

There is absolutely nothing to do at the airport and no cafes or restaurants, just a small shop selling snacks. It’s best to bring everything with you from Stanley.

Antarctic Cruise Ships

During the peak summer season, Stanley is visited by Antarctic cruise ships several times a week.

During the peak summer season, Stanley is visited by Antarctic cruise ships several times a week.

The visitor season on the Falkland Islands typically runs through from October to April.

During this time, Antarctic cruise ships regularly call at Stanley.

Cruise ship passengers, being greeted by some friendly Southern sea lions, arriving at Stanley.

Cruise ship passengers, being greeted by some friendly Southern sea lions, arriving at Stanley.

Passengers typically stay in Stanley for half a day, arriving after breakfast and transferring back to the ship mid-afternoon.

All cruise ship arrivals are noted on the Port Stanley cruise ship schedule.

Getting Around

Most roads on the Falkland Islands are well-maintained gravel roads.

Most roads on the Falkland Islands are well-maintained gravel roads.

While the Falkland Islands may look small next to their large neighbour – South America – the territory covers an area of 12,173 km2 (4,700 sq mi), making them about the same size as Wales or Connecticut.

Driving distances are vast and most of the roads are unpaved, isolated and devoid of humanity.

Driving in the Falkland Islands, outside of Stanley, is a very lonely affair.

Outside of tiny Stanley, the Falkland Islands are almost uninhabited, apart from half a million sheep.

Outside of tiny Stanley, the Falkland Islands are almost uninhabited, apart from half a million sheep.

A network of paved, and unpaved gravel roads, allows visitors to explore East Falkland Island.

Due to a lack of public transport, a rental car is essential.

The only paved roads in the territory are in Stanley and the main highway which links Stanley to Mount Pleasant airport, a distance of 53 km (33 mi).

Public Transport

There is no public bus service on the Falkland Islands.

Taxi

Letty Taxis offer private tours of the Falkland Islands.

Letty Taxis offer private tours of the Falkland Islands.

Letty Tours

There are several taxi companies which offer private transport services around Stanley and further afield.

One such company is Letty Tours who can be contacted through their website. They offer tours of the islands.

Stanley Cabs

Another taxi company is Stanley Cabs who can be contacted at:

Rental Car

Sparsely populated, the only feasible way to explore the empty, lonely Falklands countryside is with a rental car.

Sparsely populated, the only feasible way to explore the empty, lonely Falklands countryside is with a rental car.

A variety of four-wheel drive vehicles can be hired in Stanley, which are essential for travel along the many unpaved roads on East Falkland Island.

Speed limits on the Falkland Islands are 25 mph (40 km/h) in built-up areas and 40 mph (64 km/h) elsewhere.

Caution should be exercised when driving around curves on the slippery gravel roads.

Caution should be exercised when driving around curves on the slippery gravel roads.

When driving in the Falkland Islands it is essential to practice the polite and understated art of gently “raising the Falkland finger” greeting to all passing motorists.

Road sign in Stanley.

Road sign in Stanley.

You should expect all passing motorists to wave at you.

Caution should be exercised while driving on the gravel roads which can be especially slippery on the many sharp corners.

Exploring the remote and lonely Falkland Islands countryside in my rental car.

Exploring the remote and lonely Falkland Islands countryside in my rental car.

The government does not allow rental cars to cross on the ferry to West Falkland Island.

If driving your own rental car, you will be restricted to East Falkland Island.

My rental car took a battering on the muddy, dusty, gravel roads which are the most common type of road found on the Falkland Islands.

My rental car took a battering on the muddy, dusty, gravel roads which are the most common type of road found on the Falkland Islands.

I rented a 4WD vehicle through Falklands 4×4 Vehicle Hire where a standard vehicle costs £65 per day.

The following companies in Stanley offer rental cars:

The license plate of my rental car.

The license plate of my rental car.

Petrol Station

Stanley Services Garage - the only petrol station on the Falkland Islands and home to the only ATM on the islands.

Stanley Services Garage – the only petrol station on the Falkland Islands and home to the only ATM on the islands.

The only petrol station on the Falkland Islands is Stanley Services Garage which is located on Airport Road in Stanley.

This petrol station is also home to the only ATM on the Falkland Islands.

At the time of my visit, the cost of a litre of unleaded fuel was £1.31.


Important: Driving distances are vast on the Falkland Islands and as such it is recommended to always have a full tank of fuel when driving out of Stanley.


Air

Port Stanley Airport

FIGAS planes at Port Stanley Airport.

FIGAS planes at Port Stanley Airport.

The much smaller Port Stanley Airport is used exclusively by FIGAS (Falkland Islands Government Aviation Service) who operate internal flights between East and West Falkland Islands and to the outer islands.

The airport is located two miles (3 kilometres) from Stanley.

The FIGAS display at the Falkland Islands Museum in Stanley.

The FIGAS display at the Falkland Islands Museum in Stanley.

FIGAS, who operates a fleet of five Britten-Norman BN-2 Islanders, is not a scheduled service provider but works instead as an air taxi service.

A FIGAS plane at Port Stanley airport.

A FIGAS plane at Port Stanley airport.

Their daily flights are determined by the requirements of those wishing to travel on the day.

To make a booking please contact the Operations Department at:

You will need to provide the dates of travel, number of travellers (adults & children) and start/end destinations.

Bookings should be made by 10 a.m. the day before you wish to travel.

Ferry

Workboat Services operates the MV Concordia, the inter-island ferry service between New Haven in East Falkland and Port Howard in West Falkland.

The service operates several times a week with the crossing taking around two hours.

A current schedule and fares are posted on their website.


Note:

It is important to note that, due to government restrictions, no rental cars can be driven on West Falkland Island.

You will not be allowed to board the ferry with a rental car. 


That’s the end of my Falkland Islands Travel Guide.

If you wish to leave any comments/ feedback, you can do so using the form below.

Safe Travels!
Darren


Further Reading

Following is a list of my other tastet2travel content from the region:

Travel Quiz 79: European Flags Quiz

Europe Map

European Flags Quiz

This is a European Flags Quiz from taste2travel.

How well do you know your European flags?

Test your knowledge with this flag quiz from taste2travel!

How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?

Good luck!


01. This is the flag of which European country?

The flag of Iceland.
Correct! Wrong!

02. This is the flag of which European country?

Moldova Flag
Correct! Wrong!

03. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of Portugal
Correct! Wrong!

04. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of Cyprus
Correct! Wrong!

05. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of Latvia
Correct! Wrong!

06. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of Liechtenstein
Correct! Wrong!

07. This is the flag of which European country?

Malta Flag
Correct! Wrong!

08. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of Luxembourg
Correct! Wrong!

09. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of Hungary
Correct! Wrong!

10. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of Serbia
Correct! Wrong!

11. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of Monaco
Correct! Wrong!

12. This is the flag of which European country?

Ireland Flag
Correct! Wrong!

13. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of San Marino
Correct! Wrong!

14. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of Vatican City
Correct! Wrong!

15. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of Spain
Correct! Wrong!

16. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of Lithuania
Correct! Wrong!

17. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of Austria
Correct! Wrong!

18. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of Bulgaria
Correct! Wrong!

19. This is the flag of which European country?

Turkey Flag
Correct! Wrong!

20. This is the flag of which European country?

Flag of Slovenia
Correct! Wrong!

Travel Quiz 79: European Flags Quiz
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Travel Quizzes on taste2travel

Welcome to taste2travel!

My name is Darren McLean, I’m the owner of taste2travel and I love travel trivia and I certainly enjoy creating travel quizzes.

There are a total of 80 different travel quizzes on taste2travel, with each quiz containing 20 questions.

That’s a total of 1,600 trivia questions waiting to challenge you.

You’ll find a range of quizzes covering such topics as:

  • Currencies
  • Flags
  • Capital Cities
  • UNESCO World Heritage Sites
  • World Museums
  • Map Quizzes
  • Continent-specific Quizzes
  • World Islands
  • Landlocked Countries and much more!

Don’t forget to share these quizzes with your family, friends and community using the social media buttons at the top of the quiz.

Apart from excellent travel quizzes, you’ll also find other outstanding content on taste2travel – such as travel guides, photo galleries and feature articles which provide tips on booking cheap flights and much more.

Other Quizzes

Why not further test your knowledge with another taste2travel quiz?

Other travel-related quizzes are also available on BuzzFeed.

Content Links

Click on the links to access the following:

Wallis and Futuna Photo Gallery

The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption in Mata-Utu.

Wallis and Futuna Photo Gallery

This is a Wallis and Futuna Photo Gallery from taste2travel.

To read about this destination, please refer to my Wallis and Futuna Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 36 years and, 241/251 countries and territories (189/193 UN countries), and seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


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Wallis and Futuna Travel Guide

Talietumu is an ancient Tongan fort on Wallis Island.

Wallis and Futuna Travel Guide

This is a Wallis and Futuna Travel Guide from taste2travel.com

Date Visited: October 2024

Introduction

The remote French territory of Wallis and Futuna lies in a not-so-remote corner of the Pacific Ocean, with tourist hubs such as Fiji just 786 km (488 mi) to the southwest.

Despite being an off-the-radar destination, the French territory of Wallis and Futuna offers an authentic Pacific Island travel experience, well away from the tourist hordes.

With little in the way of tourist facilities and services, no public transport or taxis, visitors are very much left to their own devices, with a rental car being the only way to explore the islands.

Saint Joseph's church dominates the village of Mala'efo'ou on Wallis Island.

Saint Joseph’s church dominates the village of Mala’efo’ou on Wallis Island.

The islands are home to a small community of 11,558 souls (8,333 on Wallis Island and 3,225 on Futuna Island) who live in traditional villages which remain largely undisturbed by the modern world.

Views of two of the many offshore islets, which lie in the lagoon which surrounds Wallis Island.

Views of two of the many offshore islets, which lie in the lagoon which surrounds Wallis Island.

Villages are dispersed on the islands, mainly on the coast, and the islanders enjoy an unhurried way of life which revolves around church services and lazy Sunday family lunches.

Currently, the only airline which operates flights to Wallis and Futuna, Aircalin, flies twice a week (Saturday and Monday) from their base in Noumea, via Nadi.

A statue of Jesus, bedecked in many <i>leis</i>, in Leava, Futuna Island.

A statue of Jesus, bedecked in many leis, in Leava, Futuna Island.

Due to its monopoly operation, which Aircalin jealously guards, airfares are kept high and would discourage all but the keenest of travellers from flying to the islands.

As with other French territories, travel costs on Wallis and Futuna are very high when compared to neighbouring destinations such as Fiji and Samoa.

Wallis and Futuna is not a budget-friendly destination!

Another statue of St. Joan of Arc, dressed in a <i>lei</i> holding her flag.

A statue of St. Joan of Arc, dressed in a lei holding her flag.

Although a French territory, unlike anywhere else in the Francophone world, Wallis and Futuna are ruled by three kings who have much control over the running of the islands.

A view of the lagoon and offshore islets from Wallis Islands.

A view of the lagoon and offshore islets from Wallis Islands.

The number of French expatriates in Wallis and Futuna has always been small. Of the total resident population on the islands, only a small number are of European descent.

Because of their relative isolation, Wallis and Futuna attracts few tourists. For those who do make the voyage, Wallis and Futuna offers a unique and authentic travel experience.

Location

Wallis, 98600, Wallis and Futuna

Wallis and Futuna is a French overseas collectivity located in the South Pacific Ocean, about two-thirds of the way from Hawaii to New Zealand.

It lies 786 km (488 mi) northeast of Fiji, 446 km (277 mi) west of Samoa, and 961 km (597 mi) southeast of Tuvalu.

This remote French territory consists of three main islands, Wallis, Futuna and Alofi, and a number of smaller islets.

A map of the South Pacific, showing the location of Wallis and Futuna Islands.

A map of the South Pacific, showing the location of Wallis and Futuna Islands.

The islands are volcanic in origin, with low hills, and fringing reefs.

Wallis Island (Uvea) is the largest and most populous of the islands, located in the northern part of the territory.

Artwork showing a view of two offshore <i>motu's</i> from Wallis Island.

Artwork showing a view of two offshore motu’s from Wallis Island.

The island is surrounded by a lagoon and a barrier reef, which makes it ideal for fishing and water activities.

The wide lagoon around Wallis, and its 22 smaller surrounding islets (motu’s) are confined by a large barrier reef and smaller fringing reefs

On final approach to Wallis Island which is surrounded by a fringing reef.

On final approach to Wallis Island which is surrounded by a fringing reef.

The smaller and more rugged Futuna Island is located about 230 kilometers southwest of Wallis Island. It’s part of a twin-island group with Alofi Island.

The highest point is Mont Puke, also known as Mont Singavi which is located on Futuna Island and rises to a height of 524 metres (1,719 ft).

No shortage of colourful tropical flowers, such as frangipani's, on Wallis and Futuna.

No shortage of colourful tropical flowers, such as frangipani’s, on Wallis and Futuna.

Alofi Island lies just southeast of Futuna and, due to a lack of fresh water, is home to just one hardy inhabitant.

History

Wallis Island was originally settled 3,400 years ago by Austronesian explorers.

It’s believed the original ancestors of the Polynesians, the Austronesians, left Taiwan 4,000 years ago, stepping from island to island across the Pacific, all the way to Easter Island (click to view my Easter Island Photo Gallery).

Fast forward many millennia to the 15th century, when the powerful Tongan empire extended its influence to Uvea (now Wallis Island), establishing a chiefdom system which remains to this day.

Built around 1450, Talietumu is an ancient Tongan fort and one of the highlights of Wallis Island.

Built around 1450, Talietumu is an ancient Tongan fort and one of the highlights of Wallis Island.

One of the key sites on Wallis Island, Talietumu is an ancient Tongan fort which was built during the Tongan period.

The fort, built around 1450 during the expansion of the Tu’i Tonga Empire, was the last holdout of the Tongans on Uvea until they were defeated.

While the Tongans occupied Uvea, the Samoans settled on Futuna in the 17th century, leading to the formation of the current kingdoms in the 18th century.

In 1767, British navigator, Captain Samuel Wallis, visited Uvea and gave his name to the island.

Although the first European discoveries of the island were made by the Dutch and the British in the 17th and 18th centuries, it was the French who declared a protectorate over the islands in 1842.

In 1959, the inhabitants of the islands voted to become a French overseas territory.

People

Waiting for the flight at Futuna Airport.

Waiting for the flight at Futuna Airport.

Population

The islands of Wallis and Futuna are home to 11,558 souls (8,333 on Wallis Island and 3,225 on Futuna Island). It is a population in decline!

During the 2000’s, the islands witnessed a large exodus of its young working-age population as many left for better work and study opportunities mostly in New Caledonia and France.

The inhabitants of Wallis and Futura are ethnically Polynesian.

The inhabitants of Wallis and Futura are ethnically Polynesian.

The overall population in 2003 was 14,944, and, as of the last census in 2023, is currently at 11,558.

Due to limited economic opportunities, a significant number of Wallisians and Futunans have migrated to New Caledonia, where a large diaspora exists, often sending remittances back to their families on the islands.

Lifestyle

The inhabitants of this remote Pacific paradise live in close-knit communities where family ties and communal responsibilities are highly valued. Extended families often live together, and there is a strong sense of mutual support.

Most of the population lives in rural villages, with subsistence farming, fishing, and small-scale agriculture being common livelihoods. The pace of life is generally slow and community-focused.

The people of Wallis and Futuna are known for their warm hospitality, strong community bonds, and deep respect for their cultural traditions and heritage. Despite the challenges of living in a remote location, they maintain a resilient and vibrant cultural identity.

Polynesian Culture

A painting, in the Mata-Utu post office, depicting a traditional Kava ceremony.

A painting, in the Mata-Utu post office, depicting a traditional Kava ceremony.

Following centuries of occupation by the Tongans and Samoans, the Wallisians (Uveans) and Futunans, have a rich cultural heritage deeply rooted in Polynesian traditions.

This has been combined with influences from the French colonial history, most notably the introduction of the Catholic religion which is a central part of life on the islands.

The majority of the population is of Polynesian descent, sharing cultural and linguistic ties with other Polynesian groups such as Samoans, Tongans, and Tahitians.

There are two main cultural groups – Wallisians (Uveans) on Wallis Island and Futunans on Futuna and Alofi Islands. While they share similarities, each group has its own distinct language, customs, and identity.

Language

While all inhabitants of Wallis and Futuna speak French, on Wallis Island, the everyday language spoken by the local inhabitants is Wallisian (Uvean), while on Futuna Island, the locals speak Futunan.

Religion

Spectacular churches can be found in most villages throughout Wallis and Futuna.

Spectacular churches can be found in most villages throughout Wallis and Futuna.

As for religion, the vast majority of the population practices Roman Catholicism, which plays a central role in the community’s daily life.

A view of the interior of the Chapel of Saint Joan of Arc in Halalo village.

A view of the interior of the Chapel of Saint Joan of Arc in Halalo village.

For many locals, each day starts by attending a 5 a.m. mass at their village church. Churches can be found in most villages!

The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption in Mata-Utu.

The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption in Mata-Utu.

The influence of the Catholic church is strong, with many cultural and social events centred around religious practices and celebrations.

Monarchy

A view of the royal palace in Mata-Utu, the capital of Wallis Island.

A view of the royal palace in Mata-Utu, the capital of Wallis Island.

In terms of social structure, society is organised around traditional chieftaincies, with each island having its own hierarchical system.

Chiefs, or “kings,” hold significant influence over local affairs, often working alongside French-appointed administrators.

The original system of monarchy on Uvea (Wallis Island) was established by the Tongans under the Tuʻi Tonga dynasty. This dynasty ruled over Uvea from approximately 1400–1600 (CE).

There are three traditional kingdoms in the territory, all of which have a degree of political power. Those kingdoms include: Alo and Sigave (both on Futuna Island) and Wallis.


Did you know? 

Wallis and Futuna is the only French territory ruled by a Monarch!

While France famously abolished its monarchy on the 24th of February 1848, Wallis and Futuna have been allowed to maintain their royal families.

Under a 1961 statute, France agreed to maintain three monarchies (one in Wallis and two in Futuna) in which customary rights exist and co-exist within French law.

The kings are remunerated by the French Government.

Each customary monarchy consists of a king (“Lavelua”), appointed by the royal families, assisted by a prime minister and a ‘chefferie‘, which is comprised of the village chiefs.

The kings are responsible for managing land and familial disputes and for religious and customary ceremonies.


How is the king chosen?

The title is not hereditary, but given to a person chosen from a group of royal families.

The discussions on who to crown can take months or even years.

The secession issue is often fraught, and, in April of 2016, a standoff on Wallis Island made international news headlines due to a disagreement over who should be crowned as the next king.

At the time, the island chiefs named Tominiko Halagahu as king, however, a rival chief council preferred another candidate – Patalione Kanimoa.

In order to stop the coronation of Tominiko Halagahu, supporters of Kanimoa blockaded the royal palace compound in Mata-Utu.

After almost two months of dispute, Kanimoa was officially confirmed by the administrator-superior of the French Republic as king on 3 June 2016, and has been reigning over the kingdom ever since.

Flag

Flag of Wallis and Futuna

Flag of Wallis and Futuna

The flag of Wallis and Futuna is distinctive and represents the territory’s connection to France as well as its local identity.

The flag combines elements of the French national flag and local symbolism.

The three constituent kingdoms of Wallis and Futuna (Alo, Sigave and Uvea) have separate royal standards.

The flag of Uvea, flying outside the royal palace in Mata'Utu.

The flag of Uvea, flying outside the royal palace in Mata’Utu.

The flag’s design features the iconic French Tricolor, or Tricolore, in the upper left corner. The Tricolor consists of three vertical stripes of blue, white, and red.

This represents Wallis and Futuna’s status as a French overseas collectivity.

The constituent flag of the Kingdom of Uvea.

The constituent flag of the Kingdom of Uvea.

The rest of the flag is a red field, which takes up the majority of the design. On this red background, there is a white cross that is placed toward the right side of the flag.

The French flag, flying alongside the flag of Uvea in Mata'Utu.

The French flag, flying alongside the flag of Uvea in Mata’Utu.

This cross is a thin, equal-armed cross, which symbolises Christianity, particularly the Roman Catholic faith, which is predominant in the territory.

Philately

The stamps of Wallis and Futuna are popular among philatelists around the world.

The stamps of Wallis and Futuna are popular among philatelists around the world.

Wallis and Futuna issues its own postage stamps. These stamps often reflect the unique culture, history, and natural beauty of the islands.

The stamps of Wallis and Futuna feature local marine life.

The stamps of Wallis and Futuna feature local marine life.

Popular among philatelists worldwide, the stamps of Wallis and Futuna highlight the cultural heritage of the islands, the fauna and flora – especially marine life, historical events, natural landscapes and much more.

The stamps of Wallis and Futuna showcase local culture and traditions.

The stamps of Wallis and Futuna showcase local culture and traditions.

These stamps are not only functional but also serve as a means of preserving and showcasing the unique identity of Wallis and Futuna to the world. Collectors often value them for their artistic and cultural significance.

Post Office

Stamps, post cards and SIM cards can be purchased from the main post office in Mata-Utu.

Stamps, post cards and SIM cards can be purchased from the main post office in Mata-Utu.

Located on the waterfront, across the road from the Royal Palace, the Mata-Utu post office offers philatelic sales (in an adjacent building), along with post cards and SIM cards.

The <i>'Service des Postes et des Télécommunications (SPT)'</i> sign outside the Mata-Utu post office.

The ‘Service des Postes et des Télécommunications (SPT)’ sign outside the Mata-Utu post office.

As in other French territories, the post office is known as “Service des Postes et des Télécommunications”, which is always abbreviated as SPT.

The post office sells stamps and post cards.

The post office sells stamps and post cards.

The friendly and helpful staff assisted me with the purchase of stamps and post cards.

Posting my postcards at the post office in Mata-Utu.

Posting my postcards at the post office in Mata-Utu.

Any postal items can be deposited into the post box which is built into the front wall of the post office.

Wallis Island main post office (SPT headquarters) contacts:

The post office on Futuna Island is located in the main town of Leava.

The post office on Futuna Island is located in the main town of Leava.

Postal services on Futuna Island are offered by SPT at the main post office in Leava.

Futuna Island Post Office Branch contacts:

  • Address: Lieu-dit Faletoa, in Leava (Sigave)
  • Telephone: (+681) 72 36 00
  • Opening hours: Monday to Thursday 7.30 a.m. – 2.30 p.m.; Friday 7.30 a.m. – 1.30 p.m.

SIM Cards

The post office (SPT) is responsible for the sale of SIM cards and mobile top-ups. The local mobile network is called Manuia (by SPT)

When I enquired about purchasing a SIM card, post office staff quoted a price of XPF 5,000 (US$45.32) which includes XPF 3,000 credit and 10 domestic SMS, valid for 90 days.

Current data package rates are published on the SPT website – https://spt.wf/

I declined the offer and chose instead to use free WiFi at my guest house and at local restaurants such as Beach Club and Maloccino.

Currency

The Pacific Franc is used in the French Pacific territories of New Caledonia, French Polynesia and Wallis and Fortuna.

The Pacific Franc is used in the French Pacific territories of New Caledonia, French Polynesia and Wallis and Fortuna.

The official currency of Wallis and Futuna is the CFP franc (Central Pacific Franc), abbreviated as XPF.

The CFP franc is also used in other French overseas collectivities in the Pacific, such as French Polynesia and New Caledonia.

The Pacific Franc is legal tender in French Polynesia, New Caledonia and Wallis and Futuna.

The Pacific Franc is legal tender in French Polynesia, New Caledonia and Wallis and Futuna.

Exchange Rate

  • The CFP franc is pegged to the euro (EUR) at a fixed exchange rate of 1 EUR = 119.33 XPF.
  • Currently (October 2024), US$1 = 107.25 XPF. (Click to view the current rate.)

Banknotes and Coins

The currency includes both coins and banknotes. Coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 francs, while banknotes are available in denominations of 500, 1,000, 5,000, and 10,000 francs.

The Pacific Franc (CFP) is the official currency of Wallis and Futuna.

The Pacific Franc (CFP) is the official currency of Wallis and Futuna.

The CFP franc is issued by the Institut d’émission d’Outre-Mer (IEOM), which is the central bank responsible for monetary policy in the French Pacific territories.

Banking Services

Banking services on Wallis and Futuna are provided by the Bank of Wallis and Futuna (BWF).

Banking services on Wallis and Futuna are provided by the Bank of Wallis and Futuna (BWF).

Banking services on Wallis and Futuna are provided by the Bank of Wallis and Futuna (BWF), a subsidiary of BNP Paribas.

The one branch of BWF can be found in the small shopping arcade behind the SEM Supermarket.

Opening Hours: BWF bank is open between 8:00 a.m. and 12:30 p.m., Monday to Friday.

One of two ATMs on Wallis Island can be found at the main post office.

One of two ATMs on Wallis Island can be found at the main post office.

The bank operates two ATMs on Wallis and another on Futuna.

The ATMs on Wallis are located at the main post office in Mata-Utu and at the entrance to the SEM Supermarket complex.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are widely accepted on Wallis and Futuna with cash rarely needed.

Costs

Arriving on a very wet Futuna Island, where a return flight ticket from Wallis costs XPF 29,800 (US$277.85).  

Arriving on a very wet Futuna Island, where a return flight ticket from Wallis costs XPF 29,800 (US$277.85).

Not Cheap!

With extortionate costs for everything, Wallis and Futuna is not a destination for backpacker’s or any traveller who is on a strict budget.

A 500-gram box of Corn Flakes costs XPF 1,100 (US$10.00) at the SEM Supermarket on Wallis.

A 500-gram box of Corn Flakes costs XPF 1,100 (US$10.00) at the SEM Supermarket on Wallis.

A typical return flight with Aircalin from Noumea to Wallis will cost around €700 (if you can book in one of the cheaper economy classes) while a return airfare between Wallis and Futuna Island costs XPF 29,800 (US$277.85).

The limited number of hotels offer rooms between XPF 12,000 (US$109) and XPF 18,000 (US$164).

An average meal price in one of the few restaurants costs between XPF 3,000 – 4,000 (US$27.00 – $36).

The dessert menu at Maloccino (XPF1,200 = US$10.88).

The dessert menu at Maloccino (XPF1,200 = US$10.88).

Other sample costs: 

  • Craft beer from Wallis Brewery (0.33 litre bottle): XPF 370 (US$3.38)
  • Box of Corn Flakes (500 grams): XCF 1,100 (US$10.00)
  • Car hire (per day) from Lausikula Chambre d’Hôtes: XCF 8,000 (US$72.98)
  • Litre of fuel: XPF 200 (US$1.82)
  • Hamburger and Chips meal at Angélus Garden: XPF 1,500 (US$13.60)
  • Grilled Fish meal at Beach Club: XCF 3,000 (US$27.37)
  • SIM card from the post office: XPF 5,000 (US$45.32)

SEM Supermarket

SEM Supermarket is the largest supermarket on Wallis Island.

SEM Supermarket is the largest supermarket on Wallis Island.

There are few shopping opportunities on Wallis and Futuna.

The largest supermarket in the territory is the SEM supermarket where most produce is imported from France.

A view of SEM Supermarket, the largest on Wallis Island.

A view of SEM Supermarket, the largest on Wallis Island.

Attached to the supermarket is a small shopping arcade where you’ll find the only branch of the Bank of Wallis and Futuna, the Aircalin office, the only museum on Wallis and Futuna, a bakery and several boutiques.

Business Opening Hours

As is typical in the Francophone world, all businesses on Wallis and Futuna, including SEM, close from 12:30 to 14:30 every day for lunch.

Most businesses close at lunchtime on Saturday and remain closed until Monday morning.

Almost nothing is open on Sunday!

Aquatic Sports

Small sail boats available for rent from Vaka Lä.

Small sail boats available for rent from Vaka Lä.

The turquoise waters of the lagoon which surrounds Wallis Island are inviting and there is no better way to get onto the water than by renting some aquatic equipment from Vaka Lä.

Just some of the equipment available to rent from Vaka Lä.

Just some of the equipment available to rent from Vaka Lä.

Located on the waterfront, 300 metres north of the Beach Club restaurant, Vaka Lä rents all sorts of aquatic equipment from surf boards, kayaks, small catamarans, sail boats and much more.

Located on the waterfront, Vaka Lä rents all sorts of aquatic equipment.

Located on the waterfront, Vaka Lä rents all sorts of aquatic equipment.

Vaka Lä Contacts:

A catamaran rental from Vaka Lä will allow you to explore the lagoon which surrounds Wallis Island.

A catamaran rental from Vaka Lä will allow you to explore the lagoon which surrounds Wallis Island.

Sightseeing

This newly published map of Wallis Island is indispensable while exploring the island.

This newly published map of Wallis Island is indispensable while exploring the island.

Wallis Island

Wallis Island’s blend of natural wonders, historical sites, and cultural experiences makes it a captivating destination for travellers seeking both relaxation and adventure.

Talietumu Fortress

Talietumu is an ancient Tongan fort on Wallis Island.

Talietumu is an ancient Tongan fort on Wallis Island.

Surrounded by lush, tropical vegetation, the ruins of Talietumu Fortress are a highlight of Wallis Island.

Ruins of one of many ancient structures at <i>Talietumu</i>, a former Tongan fort on Wallis Island.

Ruins of one of many ancient structures at Talietumu, a former Tongan fort on Wallis Island.

Dating from the 1450s, and known to the Tongans as Kolo Nui, this former Tongan fortress is enclosed by a large basalt-stone wall and includes well-preserved, basalt-stone, ruins.

Dating from the 1450s, the ancient Tongan fortress of Talietumu was the last holdout of the Tongans on Uvea.

Dating from the 1450s, the ancient Tongan fortress of Talietumu was the last holdout of the Tongans on Uvea.

The fort is located about 9 km (5.6 mi) southwest of Mata-Utu, northeast of the village of Halalo, and is accessed from a (signposted) side road which leads onto a gravel access track.

A stone circle, with the supporting walls of the man-made platform in the background, at the Tongan fort.

A stone circle, with the supporting walls of the man-made platform in the background, at the Tongan fort.

The fort was built on the site of a boundary tri-point, between three ancient kingdoms, which once divided Wallis Island during the Tongan period.

Access to the Tongan fort is through a break in the wall near the car park.

Access to the Tongan fort is through a break in the wall near the car park.

Access into the enclosure is through a break in the wall, near the car park. The site is dominated by a raised, man-made, stone platform called Talietumu, which served as a Marae, i.e. a sacred place.

A view of the man-made stone platform, known as <i>Talietumu.</i>

A view of the man-made stone platform, known as Talietumu.

The large trees which provide shade on the upper platform are covered in wild orchid plants. Unfortunately, no orchids were flowering at the time of my visit.

From the main platform, a couple of steps leads to an upper platform which is completely covered by thick grass.

From the main platform, a couple of steps leads to an upper platform which is completely covered by thick grass.

From the main platform, a short flight of steps leads up to a higher platform which is completely covered in grass.

A view of the supporting walls, which support the man-made stone platform at the Tongan fort complex.

A view of the supporting walls, which support the man-made stone platform at the Tongan fort complex.

I visited the site twice and each time I was the only visitor.

Ruins of a former structure at the Tongan fort.

Ruins of a former structure at the Tongan fort.

Much of the outer areas of the site remain untouched, buried beneath lush vegetation.

A stone wall disappears beneath dense forest vegetation.

A stone wall disappears beneath dense forest vegetation.

Untouched, and devoid of visitors, there is a special energy which can be felt here.

The Tongan fort is an interesting place to visit and should be a candidate site for the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Lake Lalolalo

Dramatic and eerie, Lake Lalolalo is the largest of several, perfectly round craters lakes which can be found on this former volcanic island.

Dramatic and eerie, Lake Lalolalo is the largest of several, perfectly round craters lakes which can be found on this former volcanic island.

Lake Lalolalo is the largest of several craters lakes which can be found on the once volcanic Wallis Island.

This perfectly round, isolated, and somewhat eerie lake, is surrounded by lush, tropical jungle with a protective wall of sheer, 30m (98ft) high, cliffs which plunge into the murky depths ensuring no one can get too close.

Reaching a depth of 80-metres (262 feet), scuba divers have found a 2-km long underwater tunnel which runs to the west of the lake. Where the tunnel leads no one is certain with further exploration required.

Lake Lalolalo is completely surrounded by sheer red cliffs.

Lake Lalolalo is completely surrounded by sheer red cliffs.

Protected by its all-encompassing cliffs, the lake is a magnet for birds with flying foxes, terns, brown noddies and other birds constantly wheeling overhead.

At the end of World War II, the U.S. military dumped surplus equipment into the lake.

The lake is located north of Lausikula village along a gravel section of route RT1. A sign posted view point for the lake is located on the right-hand side of the road.

Lake Lanutavake

The emerald-green, Lake Lanutavake is the 2nd largest crater lake on Wallis Island.

The emerald-green, Lake Lanutavake is the 2nd largest crater lake on Wallis Island.

At about half the diameter of Lake Lalolalo, Lake Lanutavake is the 2nd largest crater lake on Wallis Island.

Located northeast of Fineveke village, this emerald-green, 24-metre-deep (78 ft), fresh water lake is completely surrounded by lush vegetation.

While there is no view point, you can easily photograph the lake from the road.

Like Lake Lalolalo, it is rumoured that the US military dumped equipment in the lake at the end of World War II.

Churches

The calm and peaceful, Chapel of Saint John the Baptist, is located in the east coast village of Falaleu.

The calm and peaceful, Chapel of Saint John the Baptist, is located in the east coast village of Falaleu.

As you drive around Wallis and Futuna, it’s hard not to notice the many spectacular churches which can be found in every village on the islands.

The French introduced religion to the islands with the first missionaries arriving in 1837. By 1842, Wallis had completely adopted Catholicism, and by 1846, Futuna followed suit.

Each village in the territory is dominated by an imposing, solid, towering church, most of which have been built from black basalt stone with white limestone mortar.

While Wallisian houses are generally, single-level, modest structures, the churches by contrast are multi-level design extravaganzas with each community seeming to compete with the next for the funkiest church design.

Almost all of the population are practicing Roman Catholics and the presence of the church is felt in every aspect of life. Many Wallisians start each day by attending a 5 a.m. morning mass.

The church plays a central role in education, health care, community activities, social services, and in politics.

Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption

The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption in Mata-Utu.

The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption in Mata-Utu.

Sitting alongside the Royal Palace in Mata-Utu, construction work on the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption lasted from 1952 to 1959.

A view of the interior of the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption in Mata-Utu.

A view of the interior of the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption in Mata-Utu.

The church features two towers, with a clock installed in the right-hand tower. Between the towers, the royal insignia of Wallis, a Maltese cross, is installed.

Church of the Sacred Heart

The Church of the Sacred Heart is located in the village of Tepa.

The Church of the Sacred Heart is located in the village of Tepa.

 

Detail of the basalt-stone brickwork with white limestone mortar at the Church of the Sacred Heart.

Detail of the basalt-stone brickwork with white limestone mortar at the Church of the Sacred Heart.

 

Detail of one of the doorways at the Church of the Sacred Heart.

Detail of one of the doorways at the Church of the Sacred Heart.

 

Cemetery at the Church of the Sacred Heart.

Cemetery at the Church of the Sacred Heart.

 

A statue of Jesus, inside the Church of the Sacred Heart, is bedecked in many colourful <i>leis.

A statue of Jesus, inside the Church of the Sacred Heart, is bedecked in many colourful leis.

Over the centuries, the Wallisians have combined Catholic and Polynesian religious beliefs, including dressing Jesus, and the saints, in traditional leis.

Saint Joseph’s Church

A view of Saint Joseph's Church which dominates the southern village of Mala'efo'ou.

A view of Saint Joseph’s Church which dominates the southern village of Mala’efo’ou.

The very first place of Christian worship in Wallis dates back to 1840 and was dedicated to St. Joseph.

A view of the interior of Saint Joseph's Church.

A view of the interior of Saint Joseph’s Church.

Eager to have their own stone church, parishioners spent 10 years constructing a beautiful house of worship which overlooks the south coast of Wallis in the village of Mala’efo’ou.

A view of the interior of Saint Joseph's Church.

A view of the interior of Saint Joseph’s Church.

Saint Joseph’s Church was opened in 1869.

Chapel of Saint Bernadette

A view of the enormous interior of the Chapel of Saint Bernadette, Lausikula.

A view of the enormous interior of the Chapel of Saint Bernadette, Lausikula.

A recent addition to the collection of churches on Wallis, the totally oversized Chapel of Saint Bernadette was built following the destruction of the original, smaller, chapel during cyclone Evan which hit the island in December of 2012.

Described as totally ostentatious, the oversized Chapel of Saint Bernadette overlooks the coast in the tiny village of Lausikula.

Described as totally ostentatious, the oversized Chapel of Saint Bernadette overlooks the coast in the tiny village of Lausikula.

The chapel overlooks the south-west coast in the tiny settlement of Lausikula.

This overbearing edifice was built at the urging of the local parish priest and consecrated in 2014.

Church of Saints Peter and Paul

The Church of Saints Peter and Paul overlooks the sea in the east coast village of Vaitupu.

The Church of Saints Peter and Paul overlooks the sea in the east coast village of Vaitupu.

Looking more like a Chinese pagoda, the Church of Saints Peter and Paul overlooks the sea in the sleepy east coast village of Vaitupu.

Traditional Wallisian artwork inside the Church of Saints Peter and Paul.

Traditional Wallisian artwork inside the Church of Saints Peter and Paul.

The Hihifo parish church was initially built in the village of Vailila and later transported to its current location in Vaitupu in October 1848.

Construction work of the present church lasted from 1865 to 1866.

Chapel of Saint Joan of Arc

A view of the Chapel of Saint Joan of Arc, Halalo village.

A view of the Chapel of Saint Joan of Arc, Halalo village.

Dominating the tiny south coast village of Halalo, the Chapel of Saint Joan of Arc features a striking interior with the ceiling lined with panels featuring traditional Polynesian designs.

A view of the interior of the Chapel of Saint Joan of Arc, Halalo village.

A view of the interior of the Chapel of Saint Joan of Arc, Halalo village.

 

Always seen holding a white flag, St. Joan of Arc, the patroness of soldiers and of France, dressed in a traditional <i>lei.

Always seen holding a white flag, St. Joan of Arc, the patroness of soldiers and of France, dressed in a traditional lei.

Wallis Museum

The single-room Wallis Museum is located inside the shopping arcade behind the SEM Supermarket.

The single-room Wallis Museum is located inside the shopping arcade behind the SEM Supermarket.

The only museum on Wallis and Futuna, the one-room Wallis Museum is located inside the shopping arcade behind the SEM Supermarket.

The museum, which is always closed, can be visited by contacting Christophe Laurent at Wallis Voyages in Mata-Utu.

Christophe normally conducts tours every Thursday afternoon after he finishes work at the travel agency.

Contact details for Christophe:

Entrance fee for the museum is XPF 1,000. 

Futuna Island

Flying from Wallis Island to Futuna Island.

Flying from Wallis Island to Futuna Island.

Located 260 km (160 mi) south-west of Wallis Island (halfway between Wallis and Fiji), Futuna Island, and the (almost) uninhabited Alofi Island, form the Hoorn Islands.

This remote archipelago was named by the Dutch navigators Willem Schouten and Jacob Le Maire, who, in 1616, became the first Europeans to visit the islands.

They named it after the Dutch city of Hoorn, from which their expedition had started.

The Hoorn Islands are separated from Wallis Island to the north by the Vitiaz Trench, which reaches a depth of 4,500 metres (14,763 ft).

The first row of seats on the Wallis to Futuna flight have been replaced by a life raft, in case the plane has to ditch at sea.

The first row of seats on the Wallis to Futuna flight have been replaced by a life raft, in case the plane has to ditch at sea.

It’s a good thing that the small twin prop plane which connects the two islands has a full-size life raft installed in the first row of the cabin.

In terms of size, at 83 km2 (32 sq mi) in area, Futuna is slightly smaller than Wallis which is 100 km2 (39 sq mi).

A view of the populated, narrow coastal strip and the uninhabited, mountainous, interior of Futuna.

A view of the populated, narrow coastal strip and the uninhabited, mountainous, interior of Futuna.

Unlike Wallis, the interior of Futuna is almost vertical and totally uninhabited. Covered in lush tropical jungle, it is the domain of nesting sea birds such as tern’s, brown noddy’s, frigate and tropic birds.

The highest point on Futuna is Mont Puke, which is 524 metres (1,719 ft) above sea level.

Much of the vegetation on Futuna Island is covered by Mikania micrantha, an invasive and pervasive vine which was deliberately introduced by the U.S. Military during WWII.

Much of the vegetation on Futuna Island is covered by Mikania micrantha, an invasive and pervasive vine which was deliberately introduced by the U.S. Military during WWII.

Much of the vegetation on Futuna is covered by a dense canopy of Mikania micrantha, an invasive and pervasive vine which was deliberately (and recklessly) introduced to both Futuna and Wallis by the U.S. Military during WWII as a form of camouflage for their equipment.

Today, the vine is out of control!

The capital of Futuna is the tiny settlement of Leava.

The capital of Futuna is the tiny settlement of Leava.

The population of Futuna is 3,225 with everyone living along the narrow coastal strip.

The capital of Futuna is the tiny settlement of Leava.

Leava chapel serves the small community of Leava, the capital of Futuna Island.

Leava chapel serves the small community of Leava, the capital of Futuna Island.

Opposite Leava chapel, lies a memorial to Saint Pierre Chanel, who was a Catholic priest, missionary, and martyr.

A memorial to St. Pierre Chanel, a Catholic priest, missionary, and martyr.

A memorial to St. Pierre Chanel, a Catholic priest, missionary, and martyr.

Chanel arrived on Futuna in November 1837 and was clubbed to death in April 1841 at the instigation of a chief upset because his son converted to Catholicism.

Church of Saint Joseph 

A view of the Church of Saint Joseph which dominates the village of Nuku.

A view of the Church of Saint Joseph which dominates the village of Nuku.

Located in the coastal village of Nuku, in the constituency of Sigave, the Church of Saint Joseph is where the king of Sigave attends mass.

The royal throne, which is used by the King of Sigave whenever he attends service at St. Joseph's church in Nuku.

The royal throne, which is used by the King of Sigave whenever he attends service at St. Joseph’s church in Nuku.

The king’s ornate, wooden throne can be seen in the front row of the church.

A view of the interior of the Church of Saint Joseph, Nuku.

A view of the interior of the Church of Saint Joseph, Nuku.

The King of Sigave (titled as Tu`i Sigave) is the ruler of the polity of Sigave, one of the two chiefdoms located on Futuna.

Sigave encompasses the western part of the island.

Mary and Jesus, both wearing <i>leis</i>, on the altar of St. Joseph's church.

Mary and Jesus, both wearing leis, on the altar of St. Joseph’s church.

At the altar, both Mary and Jesus can be seen, adorned in traditional leis.

One of the many <i>fale fono</i> - traditional meeting houses - on Futuna Island.

One of the many fale fono – traditional meeting houses – on Futuna Island.

While there are many churches on Futuna, there are even more ‘fale fono‘ – traditional meeting houses, a place where elders gather to discuss matters of importance, much like their forebears did.

A view of a traditional meeting house.

A view of a traditional meeting house.

Accommodation

Wallis Island

There are very few accommodation options on Wallis Island and most of the properties cannot be booked online nor do they respond to email enquiries, or answer the telephone, which makes it very difficult to book a room.

The best option is to book one of the two Airbnb properties, which allows you to book online, pay in advance and to communicate with your host online.

There are four accommodation options on Wallis Island and two on Futuna Island. All are covered in this section.

Lausikula Chambre d’Hôtes

Lausikula Chambre d'Hôtes, my homestay on Wallis Island, which I booked online via Airbnb.

Lausikula Chambre d’Hôtes, my homestay on Wallis Island, which I booked online via Airbnb.

Using Airbnb, I booked a room in Lausikula Chambre d’Hôtes – a family run guesthouse which is located in the seaside village of Lausikula, on the remote south-west coast of Wallis Island.

My room at Lausikula Chambre d'Hôtes on Wallis Island.

My room at Lausikula Chambre d’Hôtes on Wallis Island.

Rooms

Operated by Manuel Avilez, a Spanish/ French expat who has lived on Wallis Island since 2003, the guesthouse consists of 4 large rooms, all with private bathrooms.

My spacious bathroom at Lausikula Chambre d'Hôtes.

My spacious bathroom at Lausikula Chambre d’Hôtes.

Although the rooms are old and tired, they are spacious and comfortable and cost XPF 12,000 (US$109) per night.

Meals

Breakfast, served by Manuel at <i>Lausikula Chambre d'Hôtes</i>, included Wallis Island honey - some of the purest honey in the world.

Breakfast, served by Manuel at Lausikula Chambre d’Hôtes, included Wallis Island honey – some of the purest honey in the world.

  • Breakfast, which consists of fresh baguettes, jam and local honey (truly delicious!) is included in the room rate.
  • Dinner, which is always a 2-course (main and dessert) gourmet affair costs XPF 4,000 (US$36.37).

I highly recommend the dinners served by Manuel, which were comparable to meals served in the two best restaurants in town.

The living room at Lausikula Chambre d'Hôtes on Wallis Island.

The living room at Lausikula Chambre d’Hôtes on Wallis Island.

If you wish to eat out, the only restaurants are in Mata’Utu, which is a 20-minute drive.

It should be noted that at night, there is no street lighting on Wallis and no street signs anywhere! If venturing out, you must be confident with the directions back to the guesthouse!

Self-Catering

Manuel has no problem with guests using his fully equipped kitchen, which allows guests to self-cater.

Airport Transfers

Manuel offers airport transfers at XPF 1000 (US$9.00) which is totally reasonable considering the airport is at the opposite end of the island from his guesthouse.

Rental Cars

I rented this Toyota Hilux from Manuel for XPF 8,000 per day.

I rented this Toyota Hilux from Manuel for XPF 8,000 per day.

Due to the remote location of the guesthouse, you will need to hire a rental car.

Manuel offers several manual cars (not in the best condition but perfectly drivable) for XPF 8,000 (US$72.74) per day.

Fuel on the island costs XPF 200 (US$1.82) per litre.

A half tank of fuel at the end of my week-long stay cost XPF 9,000 (US$81.84).

Contact details for Manuel: 

The best way to contact Manuel is by WhatsApp messenger.

Hotel Lomipeau

Rooms at the Hotel Lomipeau overlook the swimming pool - the only pool on the island.

Rooms at the Hotel Lomipeau overlook the swimming pool – the only pool on the island.

Despite being the principal hotel on Wallis Island, you should not expect any response to any accommodation enquiries from the (seemingly) invisible staff at Hotel Lomipeau.

When I was first planning my trip to Wallis, I tried to contact the hotel using email, telephone and even Instagram message. I never received any response from the hotel.

The view of Wallis Island from the terrace of the Hotel Lomipeau.

The view of Wallis Island from the terrace of the Hotel Lomipeau.

When I was on the island, I visited the hotel, which is located in the heart of Mata-Utu, and found no one in attendance.

The reception door was open, but the lights were off and there were no staff to be found anywhere. I was assured by locals that the hotel is open and functioning.

Hotel Lomipeau is located in the heart of Mata-Utu, the capital of Wallis Island.

Hotel Lomipeau is located in the heart of Mata-Utu, the capital of Wallis Island.

Rooms 

If you can manage to make a reservation, the hotel offers 10 rooms with room rates being:

  • Single Room: XPF 18,000 (US$164)
  • Double Room: XPF 21,000 (US$191)
  • Twin Room: XPF 21,000 (US$191)

Room rates include breakfast!

The hotel boasts the only swimming pool on the island.

Hotel Lomipeau Contact Details: 

Hotel Moana Hou

Located on the waterfront, Hotel Moana Hou offers a variety of rooms.

Located on the waterfront, Hotel Moana Hou offers a variety of rooms.

Located directly on the waterfront, below the Hotel Lomipeau, the Hotel Moana Hou offers 22 rooms, 7 studios and 3 bungalows.

Artwork, on the wall of the restaurant at the Hotel Moana Hou.

Artwork, on the wall of the restaurant at the Hotel Moana Hou.

The hotel is located 400 metres from Beach Club (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below) and 1.5 km from Mata-Utu Cathedral and the Royal Palace.

Room Rates

Room rates at the Hotel Moana Hou are:

  • Single room: XPF 12,500 (US$113.66)
  • Double room: XPF 15,500 (US$140.94)
  • Family room: XPF 15,500 (US$140.94)
  • Suite: XPF 20,000 (US$181.86)

Meals

The restaurant at Hotel Moana Hou on Wallis Island.

The restaurant at Hotel Moana Hou on Wallis Island.

Hotel Moana Hou offers a restaurant service with breakfast included in the nightly rate.

Lunch and dinner are also available.

Hotel Moana Hou Contact Details: 

Manager: Madame Malia Kulikovi
Telephone: (+681) 72 21 35
Email: moana-hou@mail.wf
Facebook: Hôtel Moana Hou

Hotel Ulukula

Located a short walk inland from Mata-Utu, Hotel Ulukula offers 26 rooms.

Located a short walk inland from Mata-Utu, Hotel Ulukula offers 26 rooms.

Located a short distance inland from Mata-Utu, Hotel Ulukula resembles a roadside motel with guests parking their rental cars outside their rooms.

The reception area at Hotel Ulukula on Wallis Island.

The reception area at Hotel Ulukula on Wallis Island.

This is a clean and functional property which is centrally located.

Rooms

Hotel Ulukula offers 21 rooms plus 5 studio apartments.

Nightly room rates, which include breakfast, are:

  • Studio/ room for 1 person: XPF 9,000 (US$81.84)
  • Studio/ room for 2 persons: XPF 13,000 (US$118.21)
  • Studio/ room for 3 persons: XPF 18,000 (US$163.67)
  • Studio/ room for 4 persons: XPF 19,000 (US$172.77)

Hotel Ulukula Contacts: 

Futuna Island

There are two accommodation options on Futuna Island and they can be fully booked. It’s best to check room availability before booking flights to Futuna.

Hotel FiaFia

Hotel FiaFia is one of two hotels on Futuna Island.

Hotel FiaFia is one of two hotels on Futuna Island.

Like everything on Futuna Island, Hotel Fiafia is located on the narrow coastal strip, in the village of Nuku, which is a five minutes’ drive from the island’s capital – Leava.

Rooms

A view of my room at Hotel FiaFia on Futuna Island.

A view of my room at Hotel FiaFia on Futuna Island.

The hotel offers 9 rooms which consist of 2 single rooms, 4 double rooms (with a balcony) and 3 suites.

At the time of my visit, the hotel was booked out by a team of visiting French marine biologists who were on the island conducting underwater surveys. As part of their job, they were paid to scuba dive each day in the waters surrounding this paradise island.

Rooms at Hotel FiaFia include a fridge, TV and microwave.

Rooms at Hotel FiaFia include a fridge, TV and microwave.

I was able to secure one of their double rooms for just one night.

A very average breakfast is included in the room rate. Breakfast consisted of jam and dried crackers (even though fresh baguettes are available on the island).

Rooms rates at Hotel Fiafia are:

  • Single room: XPF 9,000 (US$81.84)
  • Double room with balcony and a view of the sea: XPF 12,000 (US$109.12)
  • Suite: XPF 14,000 (US$127.30)

Airport Transfers

Hotel Fiafia offers airport transfers at XPF 3000 one way (US$27.00) which is expensive considering the airport is just 11km from the hotel.

Meals

With just one snack shop on Futuna, which operates on a very part time basis, most guests eat at the hotel restaurant, where a 2-course meal (main and dessert) costs XPF 3,500 (US$31.83).

The hotel offers a very good lunch and dinner at the same rate.

Hotel Fiafia Contacts:

  • Manager: Monsieur Tortey Patrick
  • Main Contact: Damien (the son of Tortey Patrick)
  • Telephone: (+681) 72 32 45
  • Email: hotel_fiafia@yahoo.fr

Hotel de Somalama Park

One other option on Futuna Island is the more distant Hotel de Somalama.

Located in the seaside village of Toloke, this family-run hotel offers 8 rooms.

Room Rates:

  • Single occupancy: XPF 9,000
  • Double occupancy: XPF 12,000
  • Triple occupancy: XPF 15,000
Meals 
Lunch and dinner are available at XPF 1,500 (US$13.64)

Hotel de Somalama Park Contacts: 

Eating Out

A perfect Tuna Tataki, served at Maloccino restaurant.

A perfect Tuna Tataki, served at Maloccino restaurant.

The cuisine of Wallis and Futuna combines French and local cooking traditions, with one of my favourite meals being local tuna tataki as a main course, finished with a Café gourmand for dessert.

A French classic dessert served with a local twist - a divine Café gourmand, with homemade mango ice cream, served at Beach Club.

A classic French dessert served with a local twist – a divine Café gourmand, with homemade mango ice cream, served at Beach Club.

Wallis Island

Apart from the excellent meals served by Manuel at my homestay on Wallis, there are a small number of restaurants on Wallis Island.

All restaurants are listed on the Eating Out page of the Wallis and Futuna Tourism website.

Maloccino

Located in the heart of Mata-Utu, Maloccino offers fantastic local and international cuisine.

Located in the heart of Mata-Utu, Maloccino offers fantastic local and international cuisine.

If I had to pick one favourite restaurant on Wallis, it would have to be Maloccino.

The restaurant offers a selection of local and international dishes with my favourite being the amazingly fresh Tuna tataki (pictured above).

Set in a garden, opposite the hospital, the menu at Maloccino features duck, beef, fish and much more.

The desserts are superb, with the creamy and smooth Mousse au Chocolat being a favourite.

Opening Hours:

  • Monday to Saturday: 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.
  • Friday and Saturday: 7 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Beach Club

Located directly on the waterfront, Beach Club offers a chilled ambiance with excellent food and drinks.

Located directly on the waterfront, Beach Club offers a chilled ambiance with excellent food and drinks.

Despite its name, there is no beach to be found at the Beach Club.

However, for both location and value, it’s hard to beat this seaside chill-out zone which is both a bar and restaurant.

The waterfront wooden dining deck at Beach Club is kept cool by a constant sea breeze.

The waterfront wooden dining deck at Beach Club is kept cool by a constant sea breeze.

The popular Beach Club is truly all things to all people, offering a chillout lounge, bar and restaurant, all of which is kept chilled by a constant sea breeze.

The view from the deck at Beach Club.

The view from the deck at Beach Club.

Apart from wonderful cuisine, Beach Club offers unbeatable views of the lagoon and some of the offshore islets.

One of the only bars on Wallis can be found at Beach Club.

One of the only bars on Wallis can be found at Beach Club.

The best value lunch on Wallis would have to be Beach Club’s excellent Salad buffet which offers unlimited salad, rice, pasta, charcuterie (cold cuts), shrimps and tuna tataki.

The best value lunch on Wallis - the Salad buffet at Beach Club.

The best value lunch on Wallis – the Salad buffet at Beach Club.

The buffet à volonté (all-you-can-eat) costs XPF 3,600 (US$32.63) which is a bargain when you consider a regular salad from the menu costs XPF 3,000.

Grilled local fish, mashed potato and homemade lemonade at Beach Club.

Grilled local fish, mashed potato and homemade lemonade at Beach Club.

Apart from the excellent value buffet lunch, regular menu items feature local produce with French influences.

The food menu at Beach Club.

The food menu at Beach Club.

Located on the waterfront, Beach Club is open from breakfast to dinner from 7:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Angélus Garden

The restaurant at Angélus Garden.

The restaurant at Angélus Garden.

Located next to a roundabout in the interior of Wallis Island, Angélus Garden offers a menu of affordable, family favourites such as hamburgers and chips.

A classic hamburger with chips costs XPF 1,500 (US$13.60).

Located in the interior of Wallis Island, Angélus Garden is a popular restaurant with local families.

Located in the interior of Wallis Island, Angélus Garden is a popular restaurant with local families.

This is a popular restaurant with local families and, on each Sunday (the day of rest for all Wallisian’s), Angélus Garden offer a children’s playground complete with a bouncy castle.

Lausikula Chambre d’Hôtes

One of the many gourmet meals served by Manuel - a perfectly cooked steak <i>(à point)</i> with fresh garden salad and taro.

One of the many gourmet meals served by Manuel – a perfectly cooked steak (à point) with fresh garden salad and taro.

During my stay on Wallis Island, I ate most dinners at my accommodation – Lausikula Chambre d’Hôtes – where the owner, Manuel, offered 2-course dinners (main and dessert) for XPF 4,000 (US$36.37).

Manuel served food which was as good as anything offered in the local restaurants, without the need to drive anywhere.

A keen gardener, Manuel always included his fresh garden produce in the nighty meal.

Each evening, most guests chose to eat dinner at the guesthouse which was always finished with dessert and espresso coffee.

Futuna Island

On Futuna Island, your dining choices are limited to meals served at Hotel FiaFia or the nearby Snack Non-Stop.

Hotel FiaFia

Lunch at Hotel FiaFia - a perfectly cooked steak, served with taro chips and a beautiful fresh salad.

Lunch at Hotel FiaFia – a perfectly cooked steak, served with taro chips and a beautiful fresh salad.

The best meals on Futuna are served in the restaurant at Hotel FiaFia where a 2-course meal (main and dessert) costs XPF 3,500 (US$31.83).

The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner each day.

Snack Non-Stop 

Despite its name, Futuna's only eatery, "Snack Non-Stop", is closed more than it's open.

Despite its name, Futuna’s only eatery, “Snack Non-Stop”, is closed more than it’s open.

Despite its name, Snack Non-Stop is closed more than its open.

Located in the main settlement of Leava, this snack shop is a short walk from Hotel FiaFia.

The menu features sandwiches, paninis, fried chicken, local fish and more.

Wallis & Futuna Brewery

The spotlessly clean brew house at <i>Brasserie d'Uvea.</i>

The spotlessly clean brew house at Brasserie d’Uvea.

The brewing wizards at Brasserie d’Uvea have created some of the finest tasting craft beers I have ever had the pleasure to quaff – and I have sampled beers around the world!

A degustation of the three types of delectable, bottled craft beers from the Wallis Island Brewery.

A degustation of the three types of delectable, bottled craft beers from the Wallis Island Brewery.

Using local water and ingredients, the brewery bottles three different craft beers:

  • Tokaleleï (right) – a very tasty Pale Ale (5.0% alc.)
  • Oseania (top left) – a refreshing wheat ale (5.0% alc.)
  • 1966 (bottom left) – a powerful Blonde Ale / Golden Ale (7.0% alc.)
The three different types of bottled beer offered by the Wallis Island Brewery.

The three different types of bottled beer offered by the Wallis Island Brewery.

Unfortunately for beer lovers, in order to sample these amazing beers, you will need to make the long trek to Wallis Island as the beer is not exported.

Wallis Island craft beer for sale at the SEM supermarket.

Wallis Island craft beer for sale at the SEM supermarket.

Currently the beer is only sold on the island, including in the SEM supermarket – the largest supermarket on Wallis Island, where a bottle of beer costs XPF 370 (US$3.34).

Brasserie Bar Nights

A gathering place for locals, the bar at <i>Brasserie d'Uvea</i> on a Friday night.

A gathering place for locals, the bar at Brasserie d’Uvea on a Friday night.

For those who consider themselves to be a beerologist, libationist, beer devotee, wert guru, beer maven, beer expert or a hophead, a highlight of a visit to Wallis Island would have to be the opportunity to enjoy the excellent craft beers direct from the Brasserie d’Uvea bar.

The bar at <i>Brasserie d'Uvea</i> opens every Friday and Saturday evening.

The bar at Brasserie d’Uvea opens every Friday and Saturday evening.

Located inside the brewery, the brasserie bar opens at 5 p.m. on both Friday and Saturday evening, with happy hour commencing at 6 p.m. and ending at 7 p.m.

Boxes of bottled craft beer for sale at Brasserie d'Uvea on Wallis Island.

Boxes of bottled craft beer for sale at Brasserie d’Uvea on Wallis Island.

Drinks at the bar normally cost 500 XPF (US$4.50) for a half pint or 1,000 XPF (US$9.00) for a pint. However, during happy hour, you can enjoy 2 for 1 drinks.

In addition to the three bottled beers, there were two other craft beers on sale at the bar which were available only from the keg: a New England Pale Ale (labelled as “NEIPA“) and another beer called “Fia Fia” – another excellent, tasty ale!

The three different types of craft beers can be purchased direct from the brasserie.

The three different types of craft beers can be purchased direct from the brasserie.

If you are staying on the island, you can purchase a 20-litre keg of craft beer for XPF 15,000 and a tap kit for XPF 5,000.

The brewery is located in the south of Wallis Island, in the remote village of Halalo.

Housed inside a huge, purpose-built, tin shed, on the corner of the main road (RT1) and the turnoff to the historic Tongan fort (Talietumu Fortress), the brasserie produces 50,000 litres of excellent craft beer annually.

Brasserie d’Uvea contacts: 

Visa Requirements

My arrival form for Wallis and Futuna.

My arrival form for Wallis and Futuna.

Wallis and Futuna, as a French overseas collectivity, follows a visa policy similar to that of mainland France, but with some specific considerations due to its remote location and unique status.

My entry and exit stamps from Hihifo Airport, the only international gateway to Wallis and Futuna.

My entry and exit stamps from Hihifo Airport, the only international gateway to Wallis and Futuna.

For European Union (EU) and European Economic Area (EEA) Citizens:

Visa Exemption: Citizens of EU and EEA member states (blue on the visa policy map), as well as Switzerland, do not need a visa to enter Wallis and Futuna. They can stay, work, and reside in the territory without any special permit.

Visa policy for Overseas France.

Visa policy for Overseas France.
Source: Wikipedia

For Citizens of Countries with Visa-Free Agreements with France:

Visa Exemption: Nationals of countries that have visa-free agreements with France (dark green on the visa policy map) can enter Wallis and Futuna without a visa for short stays (typically up to 90 days within a 180-day period). This includes countries like the United States, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, Japan, and many others.

For Citizens of Other Countries:

Visa Requirement: Nationals of countries that do not have visa-free agreements (gray on the visa policy map) with France must obtain a visa before traveling to Wallis and Futuna. This is generally the same type of visa required to enter France or other French overseas territories.

Types of Visas:

Short-Stay Visa: For visits up to 90 days, such as tourism, family visits, or business trips. This is similar to a Schengen visa but specifically for French overseas territories.
Long-Stay Visa: For stays longer than 90 days, including work, study, or permanent residency. Applicants must meet specific criteria and provide documentation related to the purpose of their stay.

Special Considerations:

French Overseas Visa: It’s important to note that the visa for Wallis and Futuna is specifically for French overseas territories and is not the same as a Schengen visa, which covers mainland France and other Schengen Area countries. If a visa is required, it must be explicitly valid for French overseas territories.
Non-Schengen Area: Wallis and Futuna is not part of the Schengen Area, so Schengen visas do not apply here. Visitors must have a visa valid specifically for Wallis and Futuna or French overseas territories if required.

Entry Requirements:

Passport Validity: Visitors typically need a passport valid for at least three months beyond the planned departure date.
Proof of Accommodation and Return Ticket: Travelers may be asked to show proof of accommodation and a return or onward ticket.

You can check your visa requirements by consulting the Visa Policy of Wallis and Futuna Islands.

Getting There

Hihifo Airport on Wallis Island is the only international gateway to Wallis and Futuna.

Hihifo Airport on Wallis Island is the only international gateway to Wallis and Futuna.

Air

Wallis and Futuna each have an airport, however, the only international gateway is Hihifo Airport (IATA: WLS) which is located in the north of Wallis Island.

The only airline to serve Wallis and Futuna is Aircalin, the national carrier of New Caledonia.

Wallis Island

Arriving at Hihifo Airport on Wallis Island.

Arriving at Hihifo Airport on Wallis Island.

The only international gateway to Wallis and Futuna Islands is Hihifo Airport (IATA: WLS) which is located at the northern end of Wallis Island.

A traditional carved wooden sign at Wallis "Hihifo" Airport.

A traditional carved wooden sign at Wallis “Hihifo” Airport.

The airport is located 5.6 km north of Mata-Utu, the capital city.

It was constructed during WWII by US Seabees (i.e. United States Naval Construction Battalions) in March 1942 as a bomber field.

Flights

Aircalin at Wallis Airport.

Aircalin at Wallis Airport.

The only airline which flies to Wallis is Aircalin, the national carrier of New Caledonia, who operate 2x weekly flights from Noumea, every Saturday and Monday.

The distance between Noumea Airport (NOU) and Wallis (WLS) is 2,100 km (1,300 mi).

Monopoly Operator

Aircalin flight SB330, on approach to Wallis Airport.

Aircalin flight SB330, on approach to Wallis Airport.

For decades, Aircalin have had exclusive operating rights to Wallis and Futuna and they fight hard to protect their monopoly operation.

Able to charge high ticket prices and chop and change their schedule at will, the long-suffering residents of Wallis and Futuna would dearly love to have a choice of airlines when flying.

During the recent 6-week period of unrest on New Caledonia, all flights from Noumea airport were suspended. This meant that no flights operated to Wallis and Futuna.

The Aircalin office on Wallis Island is located in the small shopping arcade behind the SEM Supermarket.

The Aircalin office on Wallis Island is located in the small shopping arcade behind the SEM Supermarket.

In the past, the much larger, Fiji Airways have applied for permission to fly to Wallis from Nadi Airport.

The distance between Nadi Airport (NAN) and Wallis Island Airport (WLS) is just 845 km (525 mi) with a flight time of 1 hour.

However much they try, Fiji Airways have never been able to secure landing rights at Wallis Airport as they have always been blocked by Aircalin.

Unlike sleepy Noumea airport, which has just a couple of flights per day, the much busier Nadi airport is the main aviation hub for the South Pacific, offering regular flights to Australia, New Zealand, North America, Singapore and most Pacific Island nations.

Fiji Airways also offer much more competitively priced airfares, compared to Aircalin.

Fiji Airways and Nadi Airport would be a win-win for the residents of Wallis and Futuna.

Given a choice, the residents of Wallis and Futuna would most likely vote with their feet and Aircalin know this!

It is for this reason, that the New Caledonian carrier continues to block any application by Fiji Airways to offer flights to Wallis and Futuna.

In the meantime, Aircalin continue to charge at least €700 for a return ticket from Noumea to Wallis.

They also continue to chop and change their schedule.

Originally, when I booked my ticket from Noumea to Wallis in August, Aircalin offered flights 3x flights per week – on Monday, Thursday and Saturday. I booked to fly in and out of Wallis on a Thursday.

However, a week before I was due to fly, Aircalin cancelled both of my flights and scrapped all of the Thursday flights, leaving just the Saturday and Monday flights.

I had just a few days to reschedule my flights which was done by the helpful staff at the Aircalin office in Sydney.

The check-in area at Wallis Airport.

The check-in area at Wallis Airport.

Ticket Cost

A view of Aircalin one-way fares between Noumea and Wallis (in Euro).

A view of Aircalin one-way fares between Noumea and Wallis (in Euro).

Due to its monopoly position, Aircalin are able to charge whatever they wish for those travelling to Wallis and Futuna.

A typical return airfare between Noumea and Wallis costs around €700 (US$760) but, if the lower fare classes are sold out on the dates you wish to travel, you could end up paying more than €1,000 for a return flight.

The much shorter, 1.5-hour, flight between Nadi and Wallis is priced at around 3/4 of the cost of the flight from Noumea.

The departure lounge at Wallis Airport.

The departure lounge at Wallis Airport.

Airfare comparison – Noumea to Wallis versus Nadi to Wallis

There are 4 different fare types offered by Aircalin between Noumea and Wallis. The following represent the cheapest available (one-way) airfares, on the same day, in each class:

  • Economy Saver: between Noumea and Wallis = €322
  • Economy Value: between Noumea and Wallis = €359
  • Economy Flex: between Noumea and Wallis = €456
  • Premium Economy: between Noumea and Wallis = €556

Fares offered by Aircalin between Nadi and Wallis. The following represent the cheapest available (one-way) airfares, on the same day, in each class:

  • Economy Saver: between Nadi and Wallis = €240
  • Economy Value: between Nadi and Wallis = €283
  • Economy Flex: between Nadi and Wallis = €377
  • Premium Economy: between Nadi and Wallis = €434
My boarding pass, flying with Aircalin, from Noumea to Wallis Island.

My boarding pass, flying with Aircalin, from Noumea to Wallis Island.

Flight Routings

Each flight operates from Noumea to Wallis with a transit stop at Nadi International Airport (IATA: NAN).

The order of the transit stop in Fiji is switched between the two flights with the Saturday flight stopping at Fiji on the way to Wallis while the Monday flight stops at Fiji after leaving Wallis.

Saturday flight routing:

  • (Flight SB330) Noumea – Nadi – Wallis
  • (Flight SB331) Wallis – Noumea

Monday flight routing:

  • (Flight SB340) Noumea – Wallis
  • (Flight SB341) Wallis – Nadi – Noumea

Futuna Island

This single aircraft, operated by Air Loyauté, connects Wallis and Futuna Island twice a day.

This single aircraft, operated by Air Loyauté, connects Wallis and Futuna Island twice a day.

Futuna Island lies 234 km (145 mi) southwest of Wallis Island, about halfway between Wallis Island and Fiji.

Futuna Airport 'boutique'.

Futuna Airport ’boutique’.

Pointe Vele Airport (IATA: FUT) is the airport serving Futuna Island. There are no international flights arriving here!

Air Loyauté arriving at Futuna Airport.

Air Loyauté arriving at Futuna Airport.

Located in the south-east corner of the island, the airport is located 10 kilometres (6 mi) east of Leava, the capital of Futuna.

The waiting area at Futuna Airport.

The waiting area at Futuna Airport.

Air Loyauté, a carrier from New Caledonia, operate twice daily flights between Wallis and Futuna Islands using a small de Havilland Canada DHC-6 Twin Otter with a seating capacity for 12 passengers.

The check-in desk at Futuna Airport.

The check-in desk at Futuna Airport.

A return flight between Wallis and Futuna costs 29,800 XPF (EUR €249.80 / USD$277.85). 

The office of <i>Wallis Voyages</i> in downtown Mata-Utu.

The office of Wallis Voyages in downtown Mata-Utu.

Tickets, which cannot be booked online, must be booked through Wallis Voyages who can be contacted via email at:  wallisvoyages@mail.wf

A copy of my flight ticket from Wallis to Futuna Island.

A copy of my flight ticket from Wallis to Futuna Island.

Flights tend to be booked out weeks in advance so it’s best to book your seat as far in advance as possible.

Your email will most likely be answered by the very helpful Christophe Laurent, who speaks French and English.

Air Loyauté baggage tags from FUT to WLS airport.

Air Loyauté baggage tags from FUT to WLS airport.

Christophe also holds the key to the Wallis Museum and is the man to contact if you wish to arrange a visit to the one-room museum.

Contact details for Christophe:

Airport Transport

There are no taxis or public transport on Wallis and Futuna. You will need to organise an airport transfer with your accommodation provider.

Wallis Island

On Wallis Island, my Airbnb host, Manuel, provided airport transfers at a rate of XPF 1,000/trip (US$9.00).

Futuna Island

On Futuna Island, my hotel, Hotel FiaFia, provided airport transfers for XPF 3,000/ trip (US$27.00).

Sea

No commercial boat company exists in this remote territory, therefore travel between Wallis and Futuna is exclusively by plane.

Getting Around

This sign, which is located directly outside the airport, is one of the few road signs on Wallis Island.

This sign, which is located directly outside the airport, is one of the few road signs on Wallis Island.

There is no public transport, nor are there any taxis, on either Wallis or Futuna Islands. 

The only feasible way to explore the islands, and to maximise your time, is with a rental car.

Wallis Island has about 120 km of roads, much of which are paved. There are no street lights at night and very few road signs, since everyone knows where they are going!

A single coastal ring road circumnavigates the very mountainous Futuna Island.

While you can travel through the interior of Wallis Island, you cannot access the near-vertical interior of Futuna Island (unless you hike).

Rental Car

Exploring Wallis Island in my Toyota Hilux rental car, which I hired through Lausikula guesthouse.

Exploring Wallis Island in my Toyota Hilux rental car, which I hired through Lausikula guesthouse.

With a complete lack of public transport on the islands, a rental car is the only feasible transport option on Wallis and Futuna.

I organised a rental car through Manuel, the owner of Lausikula guesthouse who charged me XPF 8,000/day (US$72.74) for a trusty Toyota Hilux.

Fuel on the island costs XPF 200 (US$1.82) per litre.

Please refer to the ‘Accommodation‘ section for more details.

All car license plates on Wallis and Futuna are suffixed with 'WF'.

All car license plates on Wallis and Futuna are suffixed with ‘WF’.

There are several providers of rental cars on Wallis and Futuna, all of which are listed on the transport page of the Wallis and Futuna Tourism website.

Interestingly, insurance companies do not insure cars on Wallis and Futuna so people drive their cars until they fall apart.

I once passed a car which had obviously rolled at some point. The entire car was smashed and flattened and all windows were broken, but the owner was still able to drive the car and so he did!


That’s the end of my Wallis and Futuna Islands Travel Guide.

If you wish to leave any comments/ feedback, you can do so using the form below.

Safe Travels!
Darren


Further Reading

Following is a list of other travel guides from the Pacific Ocean region:

Travel Quiz 78: World Airports Quiz

Artwork at Saba airport.

World Airports Quiz

This is a World Airports Quiz from taste2travel.

How well do you know your airports?

Test your knowledge with this quiz from taste2travel!

How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?

Good luck!


01. Which was the busiest airport in the world by passenger volume in 2023?

World Map Quiz: World Globes image.
Correct! Wrong!

Since 1998, Hartsfield-Jackson has been the world's busiest airport by passenger traffic. In 2023, the airport served over 104.6 million passengers, the most of any airport in the world.

02. The iconic 'Rain Vortex' (the world's largest indoor waterfall) is an attraction at which airport?

The 'Rain Vortex' waterfall at Changi Airport, Singapore.
Correct! Wrong!

Jewel Changi Airport (also known as Jewel or Jewel Changi) is a nature-themed entertainment and retail complex surrounded by and linked to one of the passenger terminals of Changi Airport, Singapore. Its centrepiece is the world's tallest indoor waterfall, the 40-metre high "Rain Vortex", that is surrounded by a terraced forest setting.

03. Which airport was named 'Best Airport in the World' in 2024 by Skytrax?

Lamp Bear is a focal point of Doha's Hamid International Airport.
Correct! Wrong!

Hamad International Airport has been named the World's Best Airport three times (2021, 2022 and 2024), praised by the Skytrax Awards as the most architecturally significant terminal complex in the world, as well as being the most luxurious.

04. In which country would you be if you had just landed at Socotra International Airport?

A view of Socotra Airport.
Correct! Wrong!

Socotra is an island of Yemen, located in the Indian Ocean.

05. The busiest airport in Paris is named after whom?

A view of Paris from the Eiffel Tower, France
Correct! Wrong!

06. The airport of which country has the three-letter code of 'FUN'.

The runway at Funafuti International airport occupies the widest part of the island.
Correct! Wrong!

Funafuti International Airport (FUN) is an airport in Funafuti, in the capital city of the island nation of Tuvalu. It is the sole international airport in Tuvalu. Fiji Airways operates between Suva and Funafuti.

07. Which airport is located in New York City?

USA Travel Trivia: New York City
Correct! Wrong!

LaGuardia Airport (LGA) is the third-busiest airport in the New York metropolitan area behind Kennedy and Newark airports.

08. How many airlines provide scheduled services to Niue International Airport?

A 'Welcome to Niue' sign, outside Niue International Airport.
Correct! Wrong!

Air New Zealand is the only airline operating flights to Niue, from Auckland.

09. The world’s longest nonstop flight by distance, as of May 2024, goes between Newark International Airport in New York and which destination?

North America Travel Quiz: Statue of Liberty, New York City
Correct! Wrong!

Singapore Airlines flight SQ21 travels non-stop for 18:18 hours, covering a distance of 17,162 km (10,644 mi).

10. Serving the Caribbean island of Saba, Juancho E. Yrausquin Airport is widely acknowledged as having the shortest commercial runway in the world. What is its length?

This view of Saba airport, shortly after take-off, shows the perilous position of the short runway.
Correct! Wrong!

Not for the feint-hearted, the extremely short runway at Saba airport is flanked on one side by high hills, with cliffs that drop into the sea at both ends of the runway. Due to its exposed coastal location, the airport is constantly buffeted by strong winds.

11. Which airport is widely considered one of the most technically difficult plane landings in the world, with just 50 pilots qualified to land there?

A view of Paro International Airport, ranked as one of the most dangerous airports in the world.
Correct! Wrong!

Bhutan's Paro International Airport is one of the most geographically complicated airports in the world. Located in a valley between 18,000-foot peaks and dense forest trees, only 50 pilots have been specially trained to fly in and out, and flights are only allowed during daytime hours.

12. Which airport has the distinction of being the world's southernmost airport with scheduled public flights?

Ushuaia is a resort town in Argentina. It's located on the Tierra del Fuego archipelago, at the southernmost tip of South America.
Correct! Wrong!

Ushuaia International Airport (54°50′36″S / 68°17′40″W) is the world's southernmost commercial airport.

13. Which airport has the distinction of being the world's northernmost airport with scheduled public flights?

Flights to Svalbard Airport are operated from Norway by SAS Airlines and Norwegian Air Shuttle.
Correct! Wrong!

Svalbard Airport (78°14′46″N / 015°27′56″E) is the northernmost commercial airport in the world, located approximately 643 km (400 miles) south of the North Pole.

14. Where would you be landing if you were on final approach to Vágar Airport?

A view of the magnificent Sørvágsvatn from my SAS Airlines flight as we approach the Faroe Islands.
Correct! Wrong!

15. Which airport serves as the hub for Gulf Air?

Opened in January 2020, the US$1.1 billion Bahrain International Airport aims to be 'best-in-class'.
Correct! Wrong!

16. Which Caribbean island sees planes flying extremely low over Maho Beach, on their final approach to Princess Juliana International Airport.

Air France flight on final approach to Sint Maarten airport, flying low over Maho Beach.
Correct! Wrong!

17. Which famous architect designed Kuwait International Airport's Terminal 2 (due to open in 2026)?

An artist rendering of the new Terminal 2.
Correct! Wrong!

18. Constructed at a cost of US$2.3 billion, the white-marble terminal at which airport is built in the shape of a falcon in flight?

Built at a cost of US$2.3 billion, the white-marble terminal at Ashgabat International Airport is built in the shape of a falcon in flight.
Correct! Wrong!

19. Kangerlussuaq International Airport serves as the main gateway to which destination?

A distance sign at Kangerlussuaq Airport.
Correct! Wrong!

20. Where would you be arriving if you were on final approach to Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport?

On approach to Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.
Correct! Wrong!

Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport is an airport located in Pamandzi, Mayotte, France on the southern tip of the island of Petite-Terre (or Pamanzi), east of Grande-Terre, the main island of Mayotte.

Travel Quiz 78: World Airports Quiz
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Travel Quizzes on taste2travel

Welcome to taste2travel!

My name is Darren McLean, I’m the owner of taste2travel and I love travel trivia and I certainly enjoy creating travel quizzes.

There are a total of 80 different travel quizzes on taste2travel, with each quiz containing 20 questions.

That’s a total of 1,600 trivia questions waiting to challenge you.

You’ll find a range of quizzes covering such topics as:

  • Currencies
  • Flags
  • Capital Cities
  • UNESCO World Heritage Sites
  • World Museums
  • Map Quizzes
  • Continent-specific Quizzes
  • World Islands
  • Landlocked Countries and much more!

Don’t forget to share these quizzes with your family, friends and community using the social media buttons at the top of the quiz.

Apart from excellent travel quizzes, you’ll also find other outstanding content on taste2travel – such as travel guides, photo galleries and feature articles which provide tips on booking cheap flights and much more.

Other Quizzes

Why not further test your knowledge with another taste2travel quiz?

Other travel-related quizzes are also available on BuzzFeed.

Content Links

Click on the links to access the following:

Travel Quiz 77: Americas Flag Quiz

World Flags Image

Americas Flag Quiz

This is an Americas Flag Quiz from taste2travel.

How well do you know your flags of the Americas?

Test your knowledge with this Americas flag quiz from taste2travel!

How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?

Good luck!


01. This is the flag of which country?

Flag of Peru
Correct! Wrong!

02. This is the flag of which territory?

Flag of Saba.
Correct! Wrong!

03. This is the flag of which country?

Brazil Flag
Correct! Wrong!

04. This is the flag of which territory?

Flag_Greenland
Correct! Wrong!

05. This is the flag of which country?

Flag of the Bahamas
Correct! Wrong!

06. This is the flag of which country?

Flag of Bolivia
Correct! Wrong!

07. This is the flag of which territory?

Flag of the Falkland Islands.
Correct! Wrong!

08. This is the flag of which country?

Flag of Jamaica
Correct! Wrong!

09. This is the flag of which country?

The flag of Guyana.
Correct! Wrong!

10. This is the flag of which country?

Uruguay Flag
Correct! Wrong!

11. This is the flag of which country?

Panama Flag
Correct! Wrong!

12. This is the flag of which territory?

Flag of St Pierre and Miquelon
Correct! Wrong!

13. This is the flag of which country?

The flag of Cuba.
Correct! Wrong!

14. This is the flag of which country?

Flag of Guatemala
Correct! Wrong!

15. This is the flag of which country?

Suriname Flag
Correct! Wrong!

16. This is the flag of which territory?

Flag of French Guiana
Correct! Wrong!

17. This is the flag of which territory?

Anguilla Flag
Correct! Wrong!

18. This is the flag of which country?

The flag of Colombia.
Correct! Wrong!

19. This is the flag of which country?

Flag of Trinidad and Tobago.
Correct! Wrong!

20. This is the flag of which country?

St. Kitts and Nevis Flag
Correct! Wrong!

Travel Quiz 77: Americas Flag Quiz
Sorry! You scored less than 50%. Why not try one of the many other taste2travel trivia quizzes?

Quiz Fail Stamp

You scored almost 75%! Why not try one of the many other taste2travel trivia quizzes?

Quiz Pass Stamp

Very Good - a gold star performance! Please feel free to blitz my many other quizzes on taste2travel!

Travel Quiz Gold Star Image

Excellent result! You're a modern day Marco Polo! Please feel free to blitz my many other quizzes on taste2travel!

Travel Quiz Marco Polo Image

Share your Results:


Travel Quizzes on taste2travel

Welcome to taste2travel!

My name is Darren McLean, I’m the owner of taste2travel and I love travel trivia and I certainly enjoy creating travel quizzes.

There are a total of 80 different travel quizzes on taste2travel, with each quiz containing 20 questions.

That’s a total of 1,600 trivia questions waiting to challenge you.

You’ll find a range of quizzes covering such topics as:

  • Currencies
  • Flags
  • Capital Cities
  • UNESCO World Heritage Sites
  • World Museums
  • Map Quizzes
  • Continent-specific Quizzes
  • World Islands
  • Landlocked Countries and much more!

Don’t forget to share these quizzes with your family, friends and community using the social media buttons at the top of the quiz.

Apart from excellent travel quizzes, you’ll also find other outstanding content on taste2travel – such as travel guides, photo galleries and feature articles which provide tips on booking cheap flights and much more.

Other Quizzes

Why not further test your knowledge with another taste2travel quiz?

Other travel-related quizzes are also available on BuzzFeed.

Content Links

Click on the links to access the following:

Travel Quiz 76: Currency Quiz

Currency Collage Image

Currency Quiz

This is a Currency Quiz from taste2travel!

How well do you know your world currencies? 

Test your knowledge with this currency quiz from taste2travel.

How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz.

Good Luck!


01. In which city would you be spending this currency?

Currency of Angola
Correct! Wrong!

02. You would use this currency to pay for dinner in which city?

Currency of the Philippines
Correct! Wrong!

03. On which holiday island would you be spending this currency?

Currency of Indonesia
Correct! Wrong!

04. In which city would you use this currency for shopping?

Currency of Mauritania
Correct! Wrong!

05. Which is the official unit of currency of the United Arab Emirates?

Currency of the UAE
Correct! Wrong!

06. Which is the official currency of Pitcairn Island?

Cover Photo: Pitcairn Islands Travel Guide.
Correct! Wrong!

07. Which official currency would you be spending if you were holidaying on the Dominican Republic?

Caribbean Quiz: Vendors on the beach at Boca Chica
Correct! Wrong!

08. The Central bank of which unrecognised state issues money in the form of plastic tokens?

The plastic token money of Transnistria.
Correct! Wrong!

09. Which is the official unit of currency of Papua New Guinea?

Currency of Papua New Guinea
Correct! Wrong!

10. Which is the official unit of currency of Rwanda?

The 5,000 Rwandan franc banknote features the Mountain Gorilla.
Correct! Wrong!

11. This is the official currency of which country?

The Bahrain dinar is one of the strongest currencies in the world with one dinar worth approximately US$3.
Correct! Wrong!

12. This is the currency of which country?

Currency of Iran
Correct! Wrong!

13. This is the currency of which country?

My collection of brand new Som bank notes which I obtained from a bank in Bishkek.
Correct! Wrong!

14. In which country ISN'T the Euro the official currency?

Euro Banknotes
Correct! Wrong!

15. Which is the offical unit of currency of Switzerland?

Balloon Festival Switzerland
Correct! Wrong!

16. Which official currency would you be spending if you were shopping in Port Vila?

The bustling Central market in Port Vila is open 24x7.
Correct! Wrong!

17. This is the currency of which country?

The Moroccan Dirham is the official currency of Morocco.
Correct! Wrong!

18. Which official currency would you be spending if you were buying a coffee in Paro?

The Mountain cafe and Roastery in Paro, which serves excellent coffee.
Correct! Wrong!

19. On which Caribbean island is the Eastern Caribbean dollar the official currency?

My collection of Eastern Caribbean Dollars.
Correct! Wrong!

20. The Pacific franc is the official currency of which Pacific Island state?

The Pacific Franc is used in the French Pacific territories of New Caledonia, French Polynesia and Wallis and Fortuna.
Correct! Wrong!

Travel Quiz 76: Currency Quiz
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Travel Quizzes on taste2travel

Welcome to taste2travel!

My name is Darren McLean, I’m the owner of taste2travel and I love travel trivia and I certainly enjoy creating travel quizzes.

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São Tomé and Príncipe Photo Gallery

A young girl, relaxing on Principe island.

São Tomé and Príncipe Photo Gallery

This is a São Tomé and Príncipe Photo Gallery from taste2travel.

To read about this destination, please refer to my São Tomé and Príncipe Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 36 years and, 239/251 countries and territories (189/193 UN countries), and seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


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São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide

A panoramic view of Principe Island and the distant Caroço Island, a steep, rocky, wooded islet which rises to 305 metres elevation.

São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide

This is a São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide from taste2travel.com

Date Visited: April 2024

Introduction

A quiet, ideal paradise, the Central African island nation of São Tomé and Príncipe has been blessed with a relatively peaceful independence, thus avoiding the stigma of tension and a bloodstained past worn by most countries of mainland Africa.

A young girl, relaxing on Principe Island.

A young girl, relaxing on Principe Island.

As a destination, this former-Portuguese colony is a relaxed, calm, safe and pleasant travel destination and much more affordable than its Central African neighbours.

A view of the east coast of São Tomé Island.

A view of the east coast of São Tomé Island.

The country consists of two main islands, the larger São Tomé (854 km2 / 330 sq mi), and the much smaller Príncipe (142 km2/ 55 sq mi), as well as several smaller islets.

A panoramic view of Principe Island from the <i>Terreiro Velho Plantation</i>, home to some of the world's finest cacao beans.

A panoramic view of Principe Island from the Terreiro Velho Plantation, home to some of the world’s finest cacao beans.

Both islands are heavily eroded volcanoes which are covered in verdant, undisturbed, rainforest, whose green canopy is pierced by ancient volcanic plugs.

The isolated Praia Grande provides one of the most stunning views of Pico Cão Grande.

The isolated Praia Grande provides one of the most stunning views of Pico Cão Grande.

The volcanic origin of the islands grants them a magnificent look and makes them perfect for exploration.

Downtown São Tomé features many fine examples of Portuguese colonial-era architecture.

Downtown São Tomé features many fine examples of Portuguese colonial-era architecture.

São Tomé, which translates in English as “Saint Thomas”, was named by the Portuguese in honor of Saint Thomas, as they discovered the island on his feast day, while Príncipe Island (Prince’s island) was named in honor of Afonso, Prince of Portugal, the favourite son of the then King of Portugal.

The islands were occupied by the Portuguese from their discovery in 1470 until 1975, when independence was granted by Portugal.

Artwork in the museum at Roça Monte Café shows coffee plantation workers collecting beans.

Artwork in the museum at Roça Monte Café shows coffee plantation workers collecting beans.

Once uninhabited, over the centuries, the Portuguese imported a workforce of slave labour, from other Portuguese-speaking African colonies, to work on the many plantations on both São Tomé and Príncipe.

After 505 years of Portuguese occupation, which was marked by a building frenzy that resulted in more than 100 sprawling plantations (“Roças” in Portuguese) being built, São Tomé and Príncipe have been left an abundance of charming, colonial-era relics for tourists to explore.

Laundry, laid out to dry on the 1st floor balcony of the abandoned Roça de Água Izé Hospital.

Laundry, laid out to dry on the 1st floor balcony of the abandoned Roça de Água Izé Hospital.

One of the highlights of a trip to São Tomé and Príncipe is being able to visit the many abandoned roças, many of which were closed down after independence in 1975 and remain frozen in time.

The once-productive roças of São Tomé and Príncipe supplied Europe with most of its cacao and much of its coffee.

Street art in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

Street art in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

Unlike in other countries, the treasure trove of architectural gems, which were left by the Portuguese when they hurriedly departed the islands’ shores in the 1970s, remain largely untouched.

São Tomé and Príncipe is a charming and engaging travel destination offering pristine nature, friendly inhabitants and a fascinating history.

A painting, by a local Principe artist.

A painting, by a local Principe artist.

Highly recommended!

Location

São Tomé and Príncipe is a small island nation located in the Gulf of Guinea, off the western equatorial coast of Central Africa.

The islands lie 300 km (186 mi) due east of Libreville, the capital of Gabon, and 443 km (275 mi) south-west of Malabo, the capital of Equatorial Guinea (click to view my Travel Guide).

Located close to the true centre of the world (GPS coordinates: 0° 20′ 11.5″ North / 6° 43′ 38.4″ East), São Tomé is located slightly north of the equator, while Principe is located 140 kilometres (87 miles) northeast of São Tomé.

São Tomé (St. Thomas), the capital, and largest city, of São Tomé and Príncipe is located on the Atlantic Ocean.

São Tomé (St. Thomas), the capital, and largest city, of São Tomé and Príncipe is located on the Atlantic Ocean.

The islands are surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean. The coastline features sandy beaches, lush rainforests, and volcanic mountain ranges.

Due to its equatorial location, São Tomé and Príncipe has a tropical climate with high humidity.

The islands experience two main seasons: a dry season from June to September and a wet season from October to May.

People

A young boy on São Tomé Island.

A young boy on São Tomé Island.


Did you know? 

São Tomé and Príncipe is the second-smallest and second-least populous African sovereign state after Seychelles.


The islands were uninhabited until their discovery in 1470 by Portuguese explorers João de Santarém and Pedro Escobar.

Relaxing in the main square of Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

Relaxing in the main square of Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

Gradually colonised by the Portuguese, and settled throughout the 16th century, they collectively served as a vital commercial and trade centre for the Atlantic slave trade.

Colourful artwork by a São Tomé artist.

Colourful artwork by a São Tomé artist.

The rich volcanic soil and proximity to the equator made São Tomé and Príncipe ideal for sugar cultivation, followed later by cash crops such as coffee and cocoa; the lucrative plantation economy was heavily dependent upon enslaved Africans.

The population consists mainly of Forros (from forro, Portuguese for “free man”), descendants of immigrant Europeans and enslaved Africans who were imported to work on the many plantations.

The Santomean today are largely descendants of former African slaves, which were bought to the islands from other lusophone (Portuguese- speaking) countries throughout Africa, notably Angola, Mozambique and Cape Verde.

Young girls, relaxing on Principe Island.

Young girls, relaxing on Principe Island.

The largest city, with a population of 72,000, is the capital – São Tomé – which is located on the northeastern coast of São Tomé Island.

Portuguese colonial-era architecture in downtown São Tomé.

Portuguese colonial-era architecture in downtown São Tomé.

Having been a Portuguese colony from 1470 CE until 1975 CE, the people of São Tomé and Príncipe are a blend of African and Portuguese.

No shortage of smiles from the friendly locals on São Tomé and Príncipe.

No shortage of smiles from the friendly locals on São Tomé and Príncipe.

Culturally, São Tomé and Príncipe is a blend of African and Portuguese heritage.

You’ll find elements of traditional African music, dance, and art mixed with Portuguese language and Catholic religion.

No shortage of warm smiles from the friendly inhabitants of São Tomé and Príncipe.

No shortage of warm smiles from the friendly inhabitants of São Tomé and Príncipe.

The official language of São Tomé and Príncipe is Portuguese, due to its colonial history. However, many people also speak Forro, a Portuguese-based creole language that developed on the islands.

Almost no other languages are spoken, however French is spoken by the small community of Gabonese who have settled in the country for economic reasons.

The majority of the population is Roman Catholic, a legacy of Portuguese colonisation. However, there are also small Protestant and indigenous religious communities.

The people of São Tomé and Príncipe often lead a laid-back, island lifestyle.

Fishing is a significant part of the economy and culture, so you’ll see many locals involved in fishing activities.

Crime rates are very low, making São Tomé and Príncipe one of the safest countries in Africa to visit.

The people of São Tomé and Príncipe are known for their warm hospitality and friendliness toward visitors. It’s not uncommon for locals to strike up conversations with tourists and share their love for their islands.

Overall, the people of São Tomé and Príncipe offer a warm welcome to visitors, and their culture reflects a rich tapestry of African and European influences.

Flag

The flag of São Tomé and Príncipe.

The flag of São Tomé and Príncipe.

The flag of São Tomé and Príncipe consists of a red triangle situated at the hoist, with three horizontal green, yellow and green bands charged with two five-pointed black stars of Africa at the centre.

The flag of São Tomé and Príncipe, in a park in downtown São Tomé.

The flag of São Tomé and Príncipe, in a park in downtown São Tomé.

The two green stripes represent the lush vegetation of the islands, as São Tomé and Príncipe are known for their tropical forests and natural beauty.

The yellow stripe symbolises the country’s rich cocoa production, an important part of its economy. It also represents the equator, as the islands are situated just north of the equator.

The two black stars of Africa stand for the two main islands of the country, São Tomé and Príncipe. They also represent African solidarity and independence.

The red triangle evokes the “struggle for independence”, as well as equality.

Flag street art in downtown Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

Flag street art in downtown Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

The flag was adopted on November 5, 1975, when São Tomé and Príncipe gained independence from Portugal.

The flag was designed by artist and poet Alda Neves da Graça do Espírito Santo, who also wrote the national anthem.

The green, red, yellow, and black colours are known as the ‘pan-African’ colours and are found on the flags of other African nations, symbolising unity with the continent.

Currency

The dobra is the official currency of São Tomé and Príncipe.

The dobra is the official currency of São Tomé and Príncipe.

The official currency of São Tomé and Príncipe is the dobra, which is named after the Portuguese word for “dollar”, and has the international currency code of STN.

Locally, the currency is abbreviated as ‘DBs‘.

The dobra is divided into 100 units called cêntimos, but due to inflation, cêntimos are not commonly used anymore.

Following record inflation, banknotes of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, and 200 dobra’s were issued in 2018 with the redenomination of the dobra.

My wad of one hundred, uncirculated, 10-dobra banknotes.

My wad of one hundred, uncirculated, 10-dobra banknotes.

The 5- and 10-dobra notes were printed in polymer, and all the banknotes featured various species of butterfly on the obverse side with local wildlife depicted on the reverse side.

In 2020, the Central Bank of São Tomé and Príncipe issued a new version of the 200-dobra banknote, to replace the previous version caused by the poor quality of the paper used to print the note.

At the time, the 5- and 10-dobra banknotes reverted back to paper, as the polymer versions of the two denominations were unsuitable due to the tropical environment of São Tomé and Príncipe.

The dobra is a restricted currency, with its import and export prohibited.

For those who collect currency, the only way to obtain crisp, clean notes is from a bank branch in Sao Tome. I was able to purchase a wad of 100, uncirculated, 10-dobra banknotes.

Throughout the country, bank notes are almost always old, stained, damp, torn, creased and in very bad condition.

In fact, some locals were keen to swap my new notes as they had rarely seen such clean notes.

Exchange Rates

The current (July 2024) dobra exchange rates are (click the links to view the current exchange rates):

Cash is King!

The dobra is the official currency of São Tomé and Príncipe.

The dobra is the official currency of São Tomé and Príncipe.

Like many other countries in Africa, cash is king in São Tomé and Príncipe!

Since you are unable to use credit cards or ATMs in the country, you should bring enough EUR/ USD cash to cover all your expenses.

Banks/ ATM’s

While banks in São Tomé and Príncipe offer the convenience of ATMs, and those ATMs display the usual promising logos – i.e. Mastercard, Visa, Cirrus and Maestro, ATMs are not connected to the international banking network.

ATMs operate only on the domestic network for domestic bank card holders.

Credit Cards

Apart from the top-end hotels, credit cards are not accepted in São Tomé and Príncipe.

Those establishments which do accept credit cards, such as the Pestana Miramar Hotel in São Tomé, normally only accept Visa card!

Costs

Compared to the high travel costs in neighbouring Central African countries, São Tomé and Príncipe offers much better value and is suitable for all types of travellers from budget to high-end.

Budget travellers should count on spending between EUR €50-100 per day, while a mid-range budget would be around double that.

For high-end travellers, and celebrities escaping the limelight, a one-bedroom villa at the very secluded Sundy Praia Lodge on Principe Island start from just US$1,350 per night. A bargain really!


Note:

Since ATMs and credit cards cannot be used in the country, you must bring all of the cash which you’ll need for your holiday.  

Booking, and paying, online for accommodation is one way to reduce the amount of cash you’ll need to carry.  


Sample costs: 

  • Cappuccino at Lá Bistrô in São Tomé: 40 DBs
  • Bottle of Coke/ Sprite (0.33L): 35 DBs
  • Bottled water (0.33L): 20 DBs
  • Domestic beer (0.5L): 25 DBs
  • Meal at Xicos’s Café in São Tomé: 180 DBs
  • Standard guesthouse room at Residencial Brigada, Principe Island: USD $38
  • Standard hotel room at the 5-star Pestana São Tomé Hotel: EUR €200
  • Car rental (daily): EUR €50
  • Return flight from Portugal to São Tomé and Príncipe with STP Airways: EUR €800
  • Return inter-island flight from São Tomé to Príncipe with STP Airways: EUR €260

WiFi

WiFi Symbol.

Staying connected in São Tomé and Príncipe is made easy thanks to the two local telecom companies – Unitel and CST.

Both companies have recently converted to 4G wireless.

CST 

CST (Companhia Santomense de Telecomunicações) is the biggest mobile internet provider in the country and offers great service.

I was able to purchase a SIM card from their office in Sao Tome in under 10 minutes.

CST data packages start from just 10 DBs for a 24-hour, 100MB package.

My SIM card provided good network coverage on both islands for the entire duration of my stay.

Unitel

Unitel data packages start from just 10 DBs for a 24-hour, 100MB package – up to 200 DBs for a 200GB package valid for one month.

Shopping

I purchased this funky mask for just €15 from one of the mask sellers at the Boca do Inferno.

I purchased this funky mask for just €15 from one of the mask sellers at the Boca do Inferno.

There are many wonderful, affordably priced, souvenirs available for purchase on São Tomé and Príncipe.

Masks

At the Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell) blowhole, there are many mask sellers who sell the funkiest of masks at very reasonable prices.

Quá Téla 

Located in downtown São Tomé, Quá Téla is a one-stop shop for all things Santomean.

Located in downtown São Tomé, Quá Téla is a one-stop shop for all things Santomean.

Located in downtown Sao Tome, Quá Téla is a one-stop shop for all things Santomean.

Locally produced chocolate for sale at Quá Téla in São Tomé.

Locally produced chocolate for sale at Quá Téla in São Tomé.

They sell a range of locally produced produce from coffee, chocolate, jams, liquors, spices and much more.

Chocolate, from the Diogo Vaz company, available for purchase at Quá Téla in São Tomé.

Chocolate, from the Diogo Vaz company, available for purchase at Quá Téla in São Tomé.

In addition to their produce range, they also sell souvenirs such as caps, t-shirts, wooden handicrafts, masks, woven baskets and much more.

This is a great place to shop before leaving the country.

Sightseeing

São Tomé and Príncipe were uninhabited prior to colonisation by the Portuguese in the 1490s.

Since then, much of the landscape has remained unchanged or, where former plantations once stood, reclaimed by the rainforests.

The islands are covered by lush rainforests and, with a small population, very little development, and very few tourists, they remain an untouched veritable tropical paradise.

Portuguese colonial-era architecture in downtown São Tomé.

Portuguese colonial-era architecture in downtown São Tomé.

Among the human-made sights on the islands are the many Portuguese-era colonial buildings.

Totally unrenovated, many of these former architectural wonders remain largely unchanged from colonial times.

Essential for every visitor is a tour of one of the islands’ colonial-era plantations – roçaswhich lie in many different states, from centuries-old buildings slowly being overgrown by rainforest, to lovingly refurbished ones operating as bed-and-breakfasts.

Tour Guides

On both São Tomé and Príncipe islands, I organised a rental car through my guest house.

In both instances, I was offered a driver/ guide which I willing accepted.

Touring the islands can be difficult due to a lack of signage and the poor infrastructure.

Dirt roads in many places are very rough, muddy and almost impassable.

However, with a local driver, who is use to the conditions, travel is made easier.

São Tomé Guide/ Driver

My guide on São Tomé, Elisio Nunes took me to this remote, hidden location which offered a spectacular view of the iconic Pico Cão Grande.

My guide on São Tomé, Elisio Nunes took me to this remote, hidden location which offered a spectacular view of the iconic Pico Cão Grande.

When I rented my 4WD through my guest house in São Tomé, it was delivered by Elisio Nunes who is the young, energetic and enthusiastic owner of Sãoto Tour & Cars.

His company can organise day trips to any part of São Tomé, including boat excursions, and rental cars.

Day trips start at EUR €60, while a rental car costs from EUR €40 per day

While I intended to do a self-drive of the island, I realised that paying a little extra to have Elisio do the driving and guiding would be beneficial.

As an added bonus, Elisio speaks perfect English which is rare for a Santomean. 

At the time of my visit, Elisio was busy organising a local delegation who were about to travel to Macau (a journey of three days) to attend a tourism summit. Elisio was acting as the head of the delegation!

Elisio is a very knowledgeable guide who managed to take me to some hidden places on São Tomé, including one remote beach which offered the best view of the iconic Pico Cão Grande.

Many of the more interesting sights lie at the end of unmarked, muddy, dirt, tracks which wind their way through the dense rainforest.

I can attest that having Elisio as my driver/ guide totally enhanced and enriched my experience of São Tomé.

Contact Details: 

I would highly recommend engaging the services of Elisio and his company for your trip to São Tomé.

Príncipe Guide/ Driver

My host, and guide, on Principe, Carlos Manuel, enjoying a drink at the Hotel Roça Sundy.

My host, and guide, on Principe, Carlos Manuel, enjoying a drink at the Hotel Roça Sundy.

While on Principe, I rented a 4WD through my guest house, Residencial Brigada, which is owned by the very busy, and highly entrepreneurial, Carlos Manuel.

A native of Principe, who lived for many years in Lisbon, Carlos is very active on the local tourism scene and can organise any aspect of a trip to Principe.

He offers airport transfers, comfortable accommodation, car rental, guiding, sightseeing trips by land and sea, plus his talented wife cooks the most amazing meals, using produce from the local market.

All meals are served with freshly squeezed fruit juices.

Exploring Principe with my rental car and my guide/ driver - Rodrigo Lopes.

Exploring Principe with my rental car and my guide/ driver – Rodrigo Lopes.

The cost of his one rental car is EUR €50 per day with an additional fee for a driver/ guide. 

Normally Carlos (who speaks English) would offer his services as a driver/ guide.

However, on the day I hired my car, Carlos was busy in the morning so he offered me another guide, Rodrigo Lopes.

After lunch at the guesthouse, Carlos then took over, providing me with an afternoon of sightseeing.


Video: 

Exploring Principe in my rental car with my driver/ guide Rodrigo Lopes.


There are many unmarked, muddy, dirt tracks on Principe and many of the best sights are to be found at the end of these tracks.

I was pleased that I had a local driver who knew where he was going. You could easily get lost in the dense rainforests on Principe.

Contact Details: 

São Tomé Island

São Tomé City

A view of the Atlantic coast in downtown São Tomé.

A view of the Atlantic coast in downtown São Tomé.

The capital of São Tomé and Príncipe is also called São Tomé, which in English translates as “Saint Thomas”.

Though a third of the nation’s total population lives here (about 72,000 inhabitants), it feels like a giant village, wonderfully lively and compact.

The Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral is located on <i>Praça do Povo</i> (People's Square) in the city centre.

The Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral is located on Praça do Povo (People’s Square) in the city centre.

Most buildings are Portuguese, colonial-era, relics which are in various states of decay which adds a certain amount of rustic charm to the city streets.

Praca da Independencia marks the centre of downtown São Tomé.

Praça da Independencia marks the centre of downtown São Tomé.

The city, which wraps around the waterfront, is easily covered on foot and is very relaxed.

A view of the Atlantic coast in downtown São Tomé.

A view of the Atlantic coast in downtown São Tomé.

Crime rates are very low and at no time did I feel threatened or unsafe.

The streets of São Tomé are lined with beautiful, and grand, Portuguese colonial-era buildings.

The streets of São Tomé are lined with beautiful, and grand, Portuguese colonial-era buildings.

I was able to walk around with my camera and take photos of almost everything – although the guards outside the Presidential Palace will not allow you to take photos of the palace.

A park in downtown São Tomé.

A park in downtown São Tomé.

The locals, who see very few tourists, are very friendly and welcoming.

Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral
Dating from the 15th century, the Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral (Our Lady of Grace Cathedral) is one of Africa's oldest churches.

Dating from the 15th century, the Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral (Our Lady of Grace Cathedral) is one of Africa’s oldest churches.

While fairly humble as cathedrals go, the Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral (English: Our Lady of Grace Cathedral) is one of Africa’s oldest, and a testimony to persistence, as it has been destroyed and rebuilt numerous times in its 400-year history.

A view of the interior of the Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of São Tomé.

A view of the interior of the Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of São Tomé.

Construction of the first church was started at the end of the fifteenth century. This original church was situated near the present cathedral.

A larger cathedral was constructed between 1576 and 1578, during the reign of King Sebastian of Portugal.

A view of the altar at the Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral in São Tomé.

A view of the altar at the Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral in São Tomé.

In 1784, the cathedral was in need of renovation and, in 1814, was rebuilt at the initiative of the local population.

The walls of the cathedral are lined with Azulejo a form of Portuguese painted tin-glazed ceramic tilework.

The walls of the cathedral are lined with Azulejo a form of Portuguese painted tin-glazed ceramic tilework.

The last modification was made in 1956, when the church was remodeled in an eclectic revival style, with a neo-Romanesque main façade.

Given the limited opening hours, its best to visit whenever you see the doors open, which is usually for the midday mass.

San Sebastian Fort / National Museum
San Sebastian Fort houses the National Museum.

San Sebastian Fort houses the National Museum.

Built in 1575 by the Portuguese, Fort São Sebastião (San Sebastian Fort) was fully refurbished in 2006 and is now home to the São Tomé National Museum.

Built in 1575 by the Portuguese, Fort São Sebastião (San Sebastian Fort) was fully refurbished in 2006.

Built in 1575 by the Portuguese, Fort São Sebastião (San Sebastian Fort) was fully refurbished in 2006.

The fort is located on the waterfront, in the northeastern part of the city centre, at the southeastern end of Ana Chaves Bay.

The small museum contains religious art and colonial-era artifacts. This is the only history museum in the country.

Statues of the three Portuguese explorers who discovered São Tomé stand in the small praça in front of San Sebastian fort.

Statues of the three Portuguese explorers who discovered São Tomé stand in the small praça in front of San Sebastian fort.

Outside of the fort stand three statues of the discoverers of São Tomé – João de Santarém, Pêro Escobar, and João de Paiva.

Shortly after independence, the statues were relocated here from other squares in the city so as not to remind the residents of the colonial past.

São Tomé Island – East Coast

Clothes Washing
Clothes washing is normally done in the rivers on São Tomé

Clothes washing is normally done in the rivers on São Tomé

Clothes washing in the countryside in Sao Tome is mostly done in the rivers – along with dishwashing and sometimes bathing.

Clothes washing in the countryside in Sao Tome is mostly done in the rivers.

Clothes washing in the countryside in Sao Tome is mostly done in the rivers.

Once the clothes have been washed, they are laid out on the hot river stones to dry.

Laying out the wet clothes to dry in the sun on the hot river stones.

Laying out the wet clothes to dry in the sun on the hot river stones.

This is not an unusual practice in Africa, but the pristine, natural, environment of São Tomé is unique in Africa.

Roça de Água Izé
The residential area of <i>Roça de Água Izé</i>, which was once used to house the many thousands of plantation worker's.

The residential area of Roça de Água Izé, which was once used to house the many thousands of plantation worker’s.

One of the highlights of São Tomé is Roça Água Izé (Água Izé plantation), the first, and the most significant, of the cocoa plantations which were developed on São Tomé by the Portuguese.

A view of the main production facility at Roça Água Izé which today serves as an art gallery, library and community centre.

A view of the main production facility at Roça Água Izé which today serves as an art gallery, library and community centre.

Around the turn of the 20th century, there were some 150 plantations on São Tomé and Príncipe.

A former workshop at Roça Água Izé, has now been repurposed as a mechanic's workshop.

A former workshop at Roça Água Izé, has now been repurposed as a mechanic’s workshop.

Set up by the Portuguese for the production of cocoa and coffee, these estates were self-contained, self-sufficient universes, operating largely outside the colonial administration’s remit.

A community library, and classroom, have been installed inside the abandoned production facility at Roça Água Izé.

A community library, and classroom, have been installed inside the abandoned production facility at Roça Água Izé.

Roça Água Izé is where commercial cocoa production first started on São Tomé in the mid 19th-century.

Art work adorns the wall of the former production facility at Roça Água Izé.

Art work adorns the wall of the former production facility at Roça Água Izé.

When the man responsible for introducing cocoa to the islands, João Maria de Sousa e Almeida, was made First Baron of Água Izé in 1868, he was the first mulatto nobleman in the Portuguese colonies.

The walls of the former production facility at Roça Água Izé have been converted into gallery space where local artists display their works.

The walls of the former production facility at Roça Água Izé have been converted into gallery space where local artists display their works.

Roça Água Izé once housed thousands of workers, many of whom were imported from Angola and Cape Verde.

A view of one of the former stove-houses at Roça Água Izé.

A view of one of the former stove-houses at Roça Água Izé.

The plantation used to be a large complex with warehouses, a production facility which housed steam-operated machinery, a railway and the best hospital in this part of the world!

A view of the main production facility at Roça Água Izé, which still houses the old steam-driven equipment.

A view of the main production facility at Roça Água Izé, which still houses the old steam-driven equipment.

The main production facility, which still houses the old steam-driven equipment, has been converted into a multi-use art gallery, library and community centre.

An artisanal shop has been installed on the old processing equipment at Roça Água Izé.

An artisanal shop has been installed on the old processing equipment at Roça Água Izé.

In 1884, Água Izé had 50km of internal railway lines running through its 80km2 territory and 50 European employees overseeing 2,500 Angolan contract workers.

During its peak production period, cocoa from the plantation was exported to Portugal, from where it was then shipped to all corners of Europe.

In its prime, Roça Água Izé had 50km of internal railway lines running throughout the estate.

In its prime, Roça Água Izé had 50km of internal railway lines running throughout the estate.

With independence in 1975, the world of the roças changed forever as some 200 plantations were nationalised.

While this move was widely supported, a lack of subsequent investment and dip in production saw many of the facilities fall into disrepair.

Today, the plantation has ceased production with many of the buildings now laying in various states of decay, slowly being consumed by the encroaching rainforest.

Most of the abandoned buildings are now occupied by squatters (descendants of the former plantation workers), who eke of an existence by cultivating the remaining cocoa and coffee plants.

Getting there: The roça appears on the roadside on the EN-2 just south of the km-16 marker.

Roça de Água Izé Hospital
My rental car parked outside the abandoned <i>Roça de Água Izé Hospital</i>, once rated as the biggest and best hospital in central Africa.

My rental car parked outside the abandoned Roça de Água Izé Hospital, once rated as the biggest and best hospital in central Africa.

Built by the Portuguese in 1928, Roça de Água Izé Hospital was once considered to be the biggest and best hospital in central Africa.

A view of the 1st floor staircase at the former Roça de Água Izé Hospital.

A view of the 1st floor staircase at the former Roça de Água Izé Hospital.

Known for its impressive entrance staircase, the most famous building in the Água Izé plantation is now abandoned and in a state of extreme disrepair.

A view of the upper, rear, section of the former Roça de Água Izé Hospital.

A view of the upper, rear, section of the former Roça de Água Izé Hospital.

The now dark, dank and unlit rooms of this once marvelous facility are occupied by dozens of poor, squatter, families who try to make a living from growing crops on the surrounding land and charging the occasional tourist a small fee to allow access.

One the day we visited, the residents were busy washing their clothes, laying their laundry out to dry one the 1st floor balcony.

A view of the, now roofless, male ward at Roça de Água Izé Hospital.

A view of the, now roofless, male ward at Roça de Água Izé Hospital.

The former hospital wards, which are located at the rear of the hospital are now roofless and totally abandoned.

A view of the, now roofless, female ward at Roça de Água Izé Hospital.

A view of the, now roofless, female ward at Roça de Água Izé Hospital.

The whole complex is truly impressive and it’s easy to imagine, in the not-too-distant past, nurses and doctors tending to their patients in the various rooms of this hospital.

A view of the rear of the former Roça de Água Izé Hospital, with the now roofless wards on the left side.

A view of the rear of the former Roça de Água Izé Hospital, with the now roofless wards on the left side.

The hospital is located on a hill which overlooks the entire plantation estate.

A view out to sea from the 1st floor of the former Roça de Água Izé Hospital.

A view out to sea from the 1st floor of the former Roça de Água Izé Hospital.

No doubt the elevated site was chosen as it receives a direct sea breeze which would have been beneficial to the many patients.

Praia Izé Viewpoint

A panoramic view of Praia Izé from the mirador snack shop.

A panoramic view of Praia Izé from the mirador snack shop.

Just in front of the abandoned hospital, a short garden path leads to a snack shop which affords spectacular views of Praia Izé and beyond.

Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell)
The Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell), is a small blowhole on the east coast of São Tomé.

The Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell), is a small blowhole on the east coast of São Tomé.

Immediately south of the plantation, a side road leads to Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell), a small blowhole.


Video: 

A view of the Boca do Inferno on a calm day.


When the condition of the sea is right, water is pressed through the natural rock channel and through a hole, which sends a fountain of sea water many meters into the air.

A mask seller at the Boca do Inferno, who managed to sell me this mask for €15.

A mask seller at the Boca do Inferno, who managed to sell me this mask for €15.

There are several souvenir stands at the blowhole where locals sell hand carved, colourful masks, other wood carvings and refreshing coconuts.

A view of the east coast, near Boca do Inferno.

A view of the east coast, near Boca do Inferno.

Praia das Sete Ondas
A view of Praia das Sete Ondas, a popular surfing beach.

A view of Praia das Sete Ondas, a popular surfing beach.

Continuing south along the east coast road, the next stop was the popular surfing beach known as Praia das Sete Ondas (Seven Waves Beach).

A lonely volcanic boulder is a feature of Praia das Sete Ondas.

A lonely volcanic boulder is a feature of Praia das Sete Ondas.

This grey-sand beach is named after its sets of perfect waves which draws surfers from around the world.

Praia das Sete Ondas is a beautiful, volcanic sand beach.

Praia das Sete Ondas is a beautiful, volcanic sand beach.

The beach is located just south of the KM-20 marker on the EN-2.

Praia das Sete Ondas (Seven Waves Beach) is named after its sets of perfect surfing waves.

Praia das Sete Ondas (Seven Waves Beach) is named after its sets of perfect surfing waves.

Obô Natural Park
A painting of Pico Cão Grande by a local artist.

A painting of Pico Cão Grande by a local artist.

Obô Natural Park, also known by its original name Parque Natural Ôbo, is a natural, national and very important park which is located in the southern part of the island of São Tomé.

There are plenty of gorgeous features that Obo has to offer, however, the most famous is the Pico Cão Grande, a soaring volcanic plug of epic proportions.

In 2012, a section of rainforest on Principe was added to the park, increasing the area of the park to 300 square km (116 square mi).

Pico Cão Grande
The iconic i>Pico Cão Grande ("Great Dog Peak") is a landmark needle-shaped volcanic plug peak in São Tomé.

The iconic <>i>Pico Cão Grande (“Great Dog Peak”) is a landmark needle-shaped volcanic plug peak in São Tomé.

One of the highlights of the Obo Natural Park is the iconic Pico Cão Grande.

Located in the south of São Tomé Island, about a one-hour drive south of the capital, this iconic volcanic plug was formed around three and a half million years ago by magma solidifying in the vent of an active volcano.

A view of Pico Cão Grande from the main road - highway EN2.

A view of Pico Cão Grande from the main road – highway EN2.

Its summit is 663 m (2,175 ft) above sea level, and it rises about 370 m (1,210 ft) over the surrounding terrain.

Climbing the peak is technically challenging due to slippery moss growing on the volcanic stone and the presence of snakes.

Only a few teams of rock-climbing specialists have managed to summit the peak with one team sustaining snake bites. Ouch!

Praia Grande
The isolated Praia Grande provides one of the most stunning views of Pico Cão Grande.

The isolated Praia Grande provides one of the most stunning views of Pico Cão Grande.

Located inside Obô Natural Park, the isolated and lonely Praia Grande provides one of the most stunning views of Pico Cão Grande, with a river leading your view directly to the peak which lies in the distance.

While the view of Pico Cão Grande along the road, and from the view point, is very good, the view from Praia Grande is exceptional.

São Tomé Island – Interior

Roça Monte Café
Roça Monte Café (Coffee Mountain Plantation) is a coffee plantation located in the lofty interior of São Tomé Island.

Roça Monte Café (Coffee Mountain Plantation) is a coffee plantation located in the lofty interior of São Tomé Island.

Home to 684 souls, Roça Monte Café (Coffee Mountain Plantation) is a plantation located in the lofty interior of São Tomé Island, just 6-km inland from the town of Trinidade.

Artwork in the museum at Roça Monte Café.

Artwork in the museum at Roça Monte Café.

Situated in mountainous terrain, at an elevation of 670-metres (2,198 ft), the cool and inviting Roça Monte Café is perfectly placed for the cultivation of coffee.

Roça Monte Café was established in 1868, making it one of the oldest plantations on São Tomé.

Roça Monte Café was established in 1868, making it one of the oldest plantations on São Tomé.

Established in 1868, this coffee plantation is one of the oldest plantations on São Tomé, and, unlike most plantations, is fully functioning and thriving.

One of the cuter inhabitants of Roça Monte Café.

One of the cuter inhabitants of Roça Monte Café.

One of the main attractions of Monte Café is its visitor’s centre, coffee museum and the attached cafe.

A view of the coffee museum at Roça Monte Café.

A view of the coffee museum at Roça Monte Café.

Visitors can learn about the history of coffee production in São Tomé, where both Arabica and Robusta beans are grown.

Steam-operated equipment at the coffee museum at Roça Monte Café.

Steam-operated equipment at the coffee museum at Roça Monte Café.

The museum has a series of exhibitions that show the coffee production process, from the plantation to the cup.

Following the tour, visitors can relax in the adjacent cafe with a complimentary coffee. Very smooth and delicious!

Coffee heaven - the coffee shop at the Monte Coffee plantation.

Coffee heaven – the coffee shop at the Monte Coffee plantation.

While there are plenty of places to purchase coffee in São Tomé, the best place is direct at the source – the Monte Coffee plantation.

Locally produced coffee for sale at the Monte Coffee plantation.

Locally produced coffee for sale at the Monte Coffee plantation.

This historic roça has been producing the finest of coffee beans since 1858 and is especially known for its strong arabica beans.

Roça Monte Café - Coffee Mountain plantation!

Roça Monte Café – Coffee Mountain plantation!

In the village at Roça Monte Café, Firma Efraim is a coffee shop, guest house and restaurant, offering meals, accommodation and coffee tasting.

Firma Efraim is a coffee shop, guest house and restaurant, offering meals, accommodation and coffee tasting.

Firma Efraim is a coffee shop, guest house and restaurant, offering meals, accommodation and coffee tasting.

Getting there: The entrance to Roça Monte Café is located on the right about 6-km inland from Trindade on the EN-3.

A view of the village at Roça Monte Café, which is home to 684 inhabitants.

Cascata Sao Nicolau
The beautiful Cascata São Nicolau (Saint Nicholas Waterfall), an easily accessible, 60-metre-high waterfall.

The beautiful Cascata São Nicolau (Saint Nicholas Waterfall), an easily accessible, 60-metre-high waterfall.

The central highlands have many waterfalls, but Cascata São Nicolau (Saint Nicholas Waterfall) is probably one of the easiest to reach, as it’s right next to the road.

This 60-metre-high waterfall, is hidden by dense vegetation in the middle of a dense forest.

A natural pool at the base of Saint Nicholas Waterfall is an ideal place to cool off.

A natural pool at the base of Saint Nicholas Waterfall is an ideal place to cool off.

There is a natural pool at the base of the waterfall, where you can cool off.

Robusta coffee beans growing on the side of the road near Cascata Sao Nicolau.

Robusta coffee beans growing on the side of the road near Cascata Sao Nicolau.

The falls are located along a winding, bumpy mountain road, just beyond Roça Monte Café.

The road is lined with Robusta coffee plants which were full of fruit at the time of my visit.

São Tomé Island – West Coast

A view of a west coast beach, with many traditional wooden fishing boats, on São Tomé.

A view of a west coast beach, with many traditional wooden fishing boats, on São Tomé.

As you travel along the north-west coast of São Tomé, just south of Roça Diogo Vaz, which is famous for its chocolate products, a magnificent stone beach comes into view.

A view of the west coast of São Tomé, near to the Santa Catarina tunnel.

A view of the west coast of São Tomé, near to the Santa Catarina tunnel.

Along this beach, and other beaches on the west coast, traditional dug-out fishing boats lie in neat rows.

The west coast of São Tomé is lined with many majestic Ceiba trees.

The west coast of São Tomé is lined with many majestic Ceiba trees.

These wooden, hand-carved fishing boats are made from the long, straight trunk of the Ceiba tree, many of which can be seen, standing like towering sentinels, along the coastline.

Wooden canoes on the west coast of São Tomé.

Wooden canoes on the west coast of São Tomé.

Santa Caterina Tunnel
A view of the very photogenic Santa Catarina Tunnel.

A view of the very photogenic Santa Catarina Tunnel.

Driving in Sao Tome is really spectacular and the northwest coast road isn’t any different.

For long sections, the road follows the sparsely populated coast, offering panoramic views of the many stone beaches.

The Santa Catarina Tunnel, the only road tunnel on São Tomé and Príncipe.

The Santa Catarina Tunnel, the only road tunnel on São Tomé and Príncipe.

Near the end of the road, before the village of Santa Catarina, is the only road tunnel in Sao Tome.

The Santa Catarina Tunnel allows the coastal road to pass through a narrow coastal mountain.

The Santa Catarina Tunnel allows the coastal road to pass through a narrow coastal mountain.

Built by the Portuguese, the 20-metre-long Santa Catarina Tunnel is the only road tunnel on São Tomé and Príncipe.

Principe

A view of the lush, green Principe Island from the Terreiro Velho plantation.

A view of the lush, green Principe Island from the Terreiro Velho plantation.

A volcanic island, which was formed 31 million years ago, Principe was uninhabited when discovered by the Portuguese on the 17th of January 1471.

Originally named “Saint Anthony”, the island was later renamed Príncipe (“Prince’s Island”) by King John II of Portugal in honour of his son Afonso, Hereditary Prince of Portugal (1475–1491).

Home to just 7,324 inhabitants, Principe Island is a small, sparsely populated, heavily eroded volcano.


The Chocolate Islands

Cacao plants at the Terreiro Velho plantation on Principe.

Cacao plants at the Terreiro Velho plantation on Principe.

As you travel around Principe, you will find cacao trees growing wildly throughout the rainforests on the island, especially at the very wild Terreiro Velho plantation which is home to Claudio Corallo chocolate.

Nicknamed, The Chocolate Islands  in 1913, São Tomé and Príncipe were the world’s largest producer of cocoa.

After achieving independence in 1975, their production saw a significant decline due to their lacking infrastructure.

Today, small boutique chocolate manufacturers, such as Claudio Corallo, are producing world-class, single origin chocolate, using cacao beans from plants which have existed for decades in this remote, pristine environment.

Besides cacao and coffee plants, Terreiro Velho plantation is home to many wild pepper plants.

Besides cacao and coffee plants, Terreiro Velho plantation is home to many wild pepper plants.

The old plantation grounds at Terreiro Velho have been taken over by the lush tropical jungle.

Throughout, coffee, cacao and pepper plants can be found growing in areas where the sunlight breaks through the canopy.

Video: 

Exploring the Terreiro Velho plantation in my rental car with my driver/ guide Rodrigo Lopes.

 


The southern part of the island is now a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, which includes the entire emerged area of the island of Príncipe, and its surrounding islets.

Principe is the closest you will get to an untouched paradise, anywhere in the world.

A view of stunning Praia Banana (Banana Beach), one of the highlights of Principe.

A view of stunning Praia Banana (Banana Beach), one of the highlights of Principe.

This little-known island provides unspoiled beauty, covered in a canopy of green, broken by spires of primordial rock.

The island offers fantastic beaches, rainforests, snorkeling, fishing, birdwatching and a handful of interesting (if expensive) accommodations.

A typical, Portuguese-built, cobbled road on Principe.

A typical, Portuguese-built, cobbled road on Principe.

While both islands have their natural rewards, Príncipe offers an abundance of pristine nature and should not be missed!


Of the total number of visitors which venture to São Tomé and Príncipe, only 5% of them make the side trip to Príncipe. 

I highly recommend making the trip and spending at least a few days on this charming paradise island. 


Getting there:

Príncipe is located 173 kilometres (107 mi) north-east of São Tomé and can be reached on twice daily flights from São Tomé Airport.

Santo Antonio

The <i>Church of Our Lady of the Rosary</i> is the principal church in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

The Church of Our Lady of the Rosary is the principal church in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

Located on the north-east coast of Principe, Santo António (Portuguese for Saint Anthony), is the main settlement, and only town, on the island.

Relaxing in the main square of Santo Antonio.

Relaxing in the main square of Santo Antonio.

The town was founded by the Portuguese in 1502, and was a centre of sugarcane cultivation.

A tiny house in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

A tiny house in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

From 1753 until 1852, it served as the colonial capital of Portuguese São Tomé and Príncipe.

Portuguese colonial-era architecture in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

Portuguese colonial-era architecture in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

Due to its previous role as the capital, tiny Santo Antonio is a treasure trove of Portuguese colonial-era architecture – and some more modern, funky, street art.

Street art in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

Street art in Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

Santo Antonio is home to 2,620 inhabitants, which account for about 35% of the island’s total population.

Portuguese post box on the main square of Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

Portuguese post box on the main square of Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

The town is known for its colonial architecture and for its two churches, the Church of Our Lady of the Conception and Church of Our Lady of the Rosary (Portuguese: Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário).

The interior of the <i>Church of Our Lady of the Rosary</i>, Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

The interior of the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary, Santo Antonio, Principe Island.

Charming and relaxing, Santo Antonio is often called the “smallest town in the world” and is easily covered on foot.

Portuguese cannons and a memorial to <i>Marcelo da Veiga</i>, a local poet, graces the square, which is named after him, in Santo Antonio, Principe.

Portuguese cannons and a memorial to Marcelo da Veiga, a local poet, graces the square, which is named after him, in Santo Antonio, Principe.

Praia das Bananas

A view of Praia das Bananas, one of the best beaches on Principe.

A view of Praia das Bananas, one of the best beaches on Principe.

Considered to be the best beach, on an island which offers so many stunning beaches, Praia das Bananas (Banana Beach) is named after its curved stretch of golden sand, which is roughly in the shape of the yellow fruit.

This picture-perfect tropical beach is located on the grounds of Roça Belo Monte, a 15-minute walk from the front gate.

A painting, by a local Principe artist, depicts Praia das Bananas.

A painting, by a local Principe artist, depicts Praia das Bananas.

It is first seen from above, at a clifftop lookout, before descending to sea level, where you’ll find its golden sands, in the shape of a banana, beneath swaying palms.

The beautiful Praia des Bananas.

The beautiful Praia des Bananas.

Hidden beneath the trees are a small bar and lounge chairs.

There is snorkeling at either end, excellent swimming in between, and kayaks available from resort staff.

At the time of my visit, I had this amazingly beautiful beach to myself.


Photography Note: 

The only time to photograph Praia das Bananas is in the morning, when the beach is basking in golden sunlight. 

In the afternoon, the sun moves behind the beach which places the golden sand and turquoise water in the shadow (as can be seen in my image above).    


Praia Bom Bom

A view of Praia Bom Bom, one of a number of remote and secluded beaches on Principe and home to a deluxe resort.

A view of Praia Bom Bom, one of a number of remote and secluded beaches on Principe and home to a deluxe resort.


Deluxe Resorts of Principe

Principe is renowned for its deluxe resort accommodation, which comes at a (high) price!

There are three such resorts on the island, all of which are managed by HBD Principe, a company which is owned by South African billionaire Mark Shuttleworth.

Praia Bom Bom is home to ‘Bom Bom‘, which at the time of my visit was closed for a complete renovation. The resort is due to reopen in September, 2024. 

The other HDB resorts on Principe include Sundy Praia and Roça Sundy.

In addition to the Principe properties, HDB also offer Omali Lodge on São Tomé.


A view of Praia Bom Bom, and the small islet which is home to a deluxe resort.

A view of Praia Bom Bom, and the small islet which is home to a deluxe resort.

Praia Abade

A view of the very quiet Praia Abade which lies to the east of Santo Antonio.

A view of the very quiet Praia Abade which lies to the east of Santo Antonio.

Located 7-km due east of Santo Antonio, the very quiet Praia Abade is home to a rocky stretch of beach which is completely surrounded by lush, emerald-green, rainforest.

The El Farolito snack shop at Praia Abade.

The El Farolito snack shop at Praia Abade.

Snacks and drinks are available from El Farolito (translates as ‘The Lantern’), a small snack shop which lies in the shade of swaying palm trees, directly opposite the beach.

"Local

Also at El Farolito, a small souvenir stand offers locally produced crafts at totally reasonable prices.

A view of the fishing village at Praia Abade.

A view of the fishing village at Praia Abade.

Praia Abade is home to a small population who live in a picturesque fishing village.

Hotel Roça Sundy

The drawing room is a highlight of Eclipse house at the Hotel Roça Sundy on Principe.

The drawing room is a highlight of Eclipse house at the Hotel Roça Sundy on Principe.

One of three superb offerings on Principe by the HDB hospitality group, Hotel Roça Sundy is a luxury hotel, full of character and offering loads of old-world charm.

A view of the beautiful ceiling, which is made from local <i>marapião</i> wood, and the reception area at Hotel Roça Sundy.

A view of the beautiful ceiling, which is made from local marapião wood, and the reception area at Hotel Roça Sundy.

The hotel occupies the grounds of the former Roça Sundy, which was established in 1822 and has the distinction of being the first cocoa plantation of the whole archipelago.

A view of the front entrance of Eclipse House at Hotel Roça Sundy.

A view of the front entrance of Eclipse House at Hotel Roça Sundy.

Located 5 km northwest of the island capital of Santo António, this beautiful, deluxe boutique hotel features 18th and 19th-century buildings which were built by the Portuguese.

Giant sketches of endemic birds feature on the balcony walls at Hotel Roça Sundy.

Giant sketches of endemic birds feature on the balcony walls at Hotel Roça Sundy.

The buildings, which are interspersed with large courtyards, lush gardens and lawns, have been beautifully restored and feature sweeping staircases and ornate ceilings made from local marapião wood.

Roça Sundy is comprised of two beautifully restored buildings: Eclipse House and Cacao House.

Eclipse House, once the hub of the old plantation, now serves as the main building of Hotel Roça Sundy.

Eclipse House, once the hub of the old plantation, now serves as the main building of Hotel Roça Sundy.

Eclipse House, the former hub of the plantation, features the opulent reception area, a drawing room, restaurant and a beautiful terrace where you can enjoy sunset drinks.

Cost: Hotel Roça Sundy offers 15, well-appointed, rooms which cost from €210 per person, per night (based on 2 people sharing).

Scientific Experiment

A plaque, at Hotel Roça Sundy, commemorates Arthur Stanley Eddington's scientific experiment.

A plaque, at Hotel Roça Sundy, commemorates Arthur Stanley Eddington’s scientific experiment.

Roça Sundy was once the sight of an historic scientific experiment when, in 1919, the English scientist, Arthur Stanley Eddington, and his team visited Príncipe to test Einstein’s General Theory of Relativity.

They based themselves at Roça Sundy, and, during a total solar eclipse on the 29th of May 1919, they took photos of a star field around the sun.

They compared these photos to ones taken during the night, in Oxford, England, in February of the same year.

The aim of the expedition to Principe was to measure the gravitational deflection of star-light passing near the Sun.

The value of this deflection had been predicted by Albert Einstein in a 1911 paper.

The expedition allowed the scientists to test Einstein’s theory which was proven to be correct, that star-light is indeed deflected by the light of the sun.

A small museum on the grounds of the hotel features displays which detail this historic event.

Hotel Roça Belo Monte

The restored plantation manor house at Roça Belo Monte, Principe Island.

The restored plantation manor house at Roça Belo Monte, Principe Island.

Located in the north-eastern corner of Príncipe Island, Hotel Roça Belo Monte is a former cacao plantation which was established by the Portuguese in 1922.

The plantation was shuttered at the time of independence but has since been revived in the form of a beautiful boutique hotel.

The crenellated entrance gate at Roça Bela Monte Hotel.

The crenellated entrance gate at Roça Bela Monte Hotel.

Entrance to the former plantation grounds is through a crenellated gateway.

Beyond this grand entrance, the hotel offers twenty rooms in different buildings, a bar and restaurant with terraces, a swimming pool and panoramic views over the surrounding rainforest.

The plantation grounds also include the iconic Praia Banana.

Scuba Diving

Scuba Diving can be arranged through Dive Tribe who are based at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.

Scuba Diving can be arranged through Dive Tribe who are based at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.

The one scuba diving shop I found on Sao Tome was Dive Tribe who are based at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.

The 'Dive Tribe' scuba diving shop at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.

The ‘Dive Tribe’ scuba diving shop at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.

A single dive, including all equipment, costs EUR €55, while 4 dives costs €212.

Scuba diving price list, at Dive Tribe in São Tomé.

Scuba diving price list, at Dive Tribe in São Tomé.

At the time of my visit, visibility was poor so no diving trips were being organised.

Accommodation

The most inviting pool in the capital - the infinity pool at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.

The most inviting pool in the capital – the infinity pool at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.

The cost of accommodation in São Tomé and Príncipe can range from budget guesthouses to luxury resorts.

Budget guesthouses can cost around $20-$50 per night, while mid-range hotels can cost around $70-$150 per night.

Luxury hotels and resorts can cost upwards of $200 per night.

São Tomé

Pestana Sao Tome Hotel

The best hotel in the capital, the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.

The best hotel in the capital, the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.

For those seeking more deluxe digs in the capital, the Pestana Sao Tome Hotel is a good choice.

A view of the garden at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.

A view of the garden at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.

Standard rooms at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel start at USD$220 per night.

The boardwalk, at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.

The boardwalk, at the Pestana São Tomé Hotel.

The only credit card which is accepted is Visa! 

Pestana Miramar São Tomé

The Pestana Miramar São Tomé offers comfortable rooms overlooking the sea from US$120 per night.

The Pestana Miramar São Tomé offers comfortable rooms overlooking the sea from US$120 per night.

A sister property to the Pestana São Tomé Hotel is the nearby Pestana Miramar São Tomé, which is located a short, 5-minute, walk from the former hotel.

Rooms at this older property cost from just US$120 per night. 

Hotel Central

The best mid-range option in town is the Hotel Central which, as the name suggests, is located in the heart of the old town.

Comfortable and clean rooms cost from US$50 per night on booking.com

Albergaria Porcelana
During my stay in São Tomé, I resided at the, less-than-ideal, Albergaria Porcelana which was recommended by some friends.

A standard room at this budget establishment costs US$30 per night.

I was flooded out during my stay and a truckload of chicken feed, which was stored in the basement, meant a foul stench hung in the air during my stay.

Very unpleasant. I would avoid this establishment.

Principe

Principe island offers some amazingly deluxe resorts, which are hidden away in secluded corners of this quiet island, and cost a small fortune.

The top 3 hotels on the island are owned by the HBD hospitality group, which is owned by South African billionaire, Mark Butterworth.

Top of the list is the immaculate Sundy Praia Lodge, where a one-bedroom villa costs from US$1,350 per night.

Another HDB offering is the charming, old-world Hotel Roça Sundy which is detailed in the ‘Sightseeing’ section above.

Residencial Brigada

A view of my spacious 'Queen Studio' room at Residencial Brigada.

A view of my spacious ‘Queen Studio’ room at Residencial Brigada.

During my visit to Principe, I chose to stay at the much more unpretentious, and totally affordable, Residencial Brigada which is tucked away in a side street of Santo Antonio.

The bathroom in my 'Queen Studio' room at Residencial Brigada.

The bathroom in my ‘Queen Studio’ room at Residencial Brigada.

The 3-star, Residencial Brigada features accommodation with a garden, free private parking, a terrace and a restaurant.

Owned by the enthusiastic and energetic Carlos Manuel, this cosy guest house offers spotlessly clean and comfortable rooms starting at EUR €57.50 for a single or EUR €70 for two people.

Rates include a delicious breakfast.

Services include airport transfers, free WiFi and delicious, locally-inspired, meals which are prepared by Carlos’ wife – who is an excellent cook.

All meals at Residencial Brigada, including this delicious breakfast, are prepared by Carlos' wife.

All meals at Residencial Brigada, including this delicious breakfast, are prepared by Carlos’ wife.

For a more comfortable stay, I recommend spending more to stay in the queen studio.

Also, through Carlos, I rented a 4WD with a local guide/ driver.

The car rental cost EUR €60 per day – plus extra for the driver.

A guide/ driver is essential on an island where many of the sights lie at the end of unmarked, muddy, rough tracks which weave their way through dense jungle.

The Residencial Brigada is a highly recommended option on Principe. 

Contact Details: 

Eating Out

Cuisine

The cuisine of São Tomé and Príncipe reflects both African and Portuguese influences.

Common ingredients include fish, seafood, tropical fruits, and vegetables.

Dishes often feature flavors like coconut, palm oil, and spices.

Being an island nation, fish is a staple of the São Toméan diet, often served with breadfruit and mashed, cooked bananas.

In spite of the abject poverty, São Toméans can always count on some sustenance from the wide array of tropical fruits which grow throughout the island.

The rich volcanic soil allows almost anything to grow in profusion.

São Tomé

Xicos’s Café

Xico's Café in São Tomé offers traditional local, and Portuguese, cuisine served in an authentic, old-world cafe/ art gallery.

Xico’s Café in São Tomé offers traditional local, and Portuguese, cuisine served in an authentic, old-world cafe/ art gallery.

Located in downtown São Tomé, the very popular Xicos’s Café offers local, and Portuguese, cuisine at reasonable prices in an old-world café environment.

Named after its owner, Xico, the walls of the café are lined with artworks by local artists, all of which is available for purchase.

A view of Xico's Café in São Tomé.

A view of Xico’s Café in São Tomé.

The café is especially popular with the expat Portuguese community who come to dine on Portuguese cuisine.

My lunchtime 'meal of the day' at Xico's Café - battered tuna, chips and salad.

My lunchtime ‘meal of the day’ at Xico’s Café – battered tuna, chips and salad.

The open kitchen is located at the front of the café, allowing you to watch your meal being prepared.

I recommend the ‘meal of the day’ which is served at lunchtime and costs 200 DBs. Standard fare at the cafe includes fresh, local fish with chips and salad.

Open every day except Sunday’s.

Lá Bistro

A view of the popular Lá Bistrô in São Tomé.

A view of the popular Lá Bistrô in São Tomé.

Around the corner from Xico’s Café, Lá Bistrô serves similar food with fish, chips and salad being the most popular dish.

For caffeine addicts, this is the one place in São Tomé where you can enjoy a barista-made coffee. The coffees are best enjoyed with one of their fresh cakes, which are baked next door in the bakery.

Highly recommended!

Principe

Armazem Restaurante

The Armazém Restaurante in downtown Santo Antonio.

The Armazém Restaurante in downtown Santo Antonio.

On an island with very limited dining options, Armazém Restaurante do Roça Porto Real (Warehouse Restaurant Roça Porto Real) in downtown Santo Antonio is housed in a former warehouse, with a seating capacity for over 300 people.

With helpful staff who speak Portuguese and French, the restaurant is busiest at lunchtime, with the most popular dishes being grilled meats and typical Portuguese dishes.

Principe Sightseeing Boat Trips

Boat sightseeing trips of Principe can be booked through the Armazem Restaurante in Santo Antonio.

Boat sightseeing trips of Principe can be booked through the Armazem Restaurante in Santo Antonio.

In addition to the wonderful food, the folks at the Armazem Restaurante can help to organise sightseeing boat trips around Principe Island.

Residencial Brigada

While on Principe, I stayed at the Residencial Brigada where the wife of the owner, Carlos, prepared the most amazing meals, using fresh local produce from the nearby market.

Visa Requirements

Visa policy map of São Tomé and Príncipe.

Visa policy map of São Tomé and Príncipe.

Many nationalities enjoy visa-free access (highlighted in dark green on the map above) to São Tomé and Príncipe for up to 15 days.

This includes most Europeans, Americans, Canadians, Russians, Japanese and South Koreans.

Other nationalities, such as Australians and New Zealanders, must first apply for a visa.

You can check your visa requirements by consulting the Visa Policy of São Tomé and Príncipe.

My visa for São Tomé and Príncipe.

My visa for São Tomé and Príncipe.

Those who require a visa can try applying through the online STP e-Visa website which I found does not work.

I tried twice to submit an application and at no stage did I receive an email or any confirmation that the application had been received.

I never received an e-Visa via the website. 

I instead applied in person at the São Tomé and Príncipe embassy in Lisbon where a visa application takes 1 week to process.

Getting There

Air

My STP Airways flight from São Tomé International Airport to Portugal which used a chartered plane from EuroAtlantic Airways,

My STP Airways flight from São Tomé International Airport to Portugal which used a chartered plane from EuroAtlantic Airways,

São Tomé is served by São Tomé International Airport (IATA: TMS) with regular flights to Europe and other African countries.

The airport is located 5 kilometres (3 mi) north-west of downtown São Tomé.

The very small, inadequate, and outdated terminal, is easily overwhelmed whenever flights of the larger airlines (STP Airways and TAP Air Portugal) arrive and depart.

Lining up, outside São Tomé International Airport at 4 am, waiting to pass through the security check.

Lining up, outside São Tomé International Airport at 4 am, waiting to pass through the security check.

In order to enter the airport terminal, all passengers must queue and wait to first undergo a security check in an adjacent annex.

If you are departing on the weekly STP Airways flight to Lisbon (which departs at 07:10), you will need to ensure you are at the airport at around 4 am to join the long line in the car park.

An old TAP Air Portugal advertisement in downtown São Tomé.

An old TAP Air Portugal advertisement in downtown São Tomé.

Only passengers may enter the terminal building.

The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from São Tomé International Airport:

STP Airways

I flew from Lisbon, Portugal to São Tomé with STP Airways who provide a weekly service every Saturday.

The one, small, and very crowded departure lounge at São Tomé International Airport.

The one, small, and very crowded departure lounge at São Tomé International Airport.

Flight Schedule

The flight schedule of STP Airways is as follows:

Flight           Departure                                        Arrival
8F507           Saturday         LIS      00:05             Saturday      TMS    05:15
8F508           Saturday        TMS    07:10              Saturday      LIS      14:30

The airline uses an older Boeing 777 which is chartered from EuroAtlantic Airways.

Booking

Flights can be booked on the STP Airways website, with a round trip from Lisbon to São Tomé costing about EUR €800.

Airport Transport

Most hotels will provide a shuttle service.

An airport taxi into downtown São Tomé will cost EUR €10.

Getting Around

Taxis are the most popular form of transportation on the islands, with prices ranging from $1-$10 depending on the distance. Car rentals are also available and can cost around $60-$100 per day.

Inter-Island Flights

Flights between Sao Tome and Principe are operated by STP Airways, who use a chartered plane from SEVENAIR.

Flights between Sao Tome and Principe are operated by STP Airways, who use a chartered plane from SEVENAIR.

Carrier

STP Airways operate inter-island flights between São Tomé and Príncipe islands, daily, except Tuesday.

The empty waiting lounge at the very sleepy Principe airport.

The empty waiting lounge at the very sleepy Principe airport.

The airline uses a chartered, 19-seater, BAe Jetstream 32, plane from SEVENAIR – a Portuguese charter airline.

On both of my flights, there were no more than half a dozen passengers on board.

Inter-islands flights between São Tomé Island and Príncipe are rarely busy.

Inter-islands flights between São Tomé Island and Príncipe are rarely busy.

Schedule

STP Airways provide flights between São Tomé and Principe islands as per the following schedule:

Monday – Wednesday – Thursday – Friday – Sunday 

Flight             Departure               Arrival

8F211             TMS    09:00             PCP    09:40
8F212             PCP    10:20             TMS    11:00

8F213             TMS    15:00             PCP    15:40
8F214             PCP    16:20             TMS    17:00

Saturday

Flight             Departure               Arrival

8F211             TMS    08:00             PCP    08:40
8F212             PCP    09:10             TMS    09:50

My boarding pass for my inter-island flight from Principe to São Tomé.

My boarding pass for my inter-island flight from Principe to São Tomé.

Booking

Flights can be booked on the STP Airways website, with a round-trip costing about EUR €260.

Airport

Príncipe Airport lies 3 km north Santo Antonio, with two daily flights connecting Principe to São Tomé International Airport on STP Airways.

Public Transport

Public buses operate on São Tomé, with buses departing from the central market in downtown São Tomé.

Taxi

Shared and private taxis are available on São Tomé, with shared taxis departing from a rank outside central market in downtown São Tomé.

Rental Car

Exploring the lush, green rainforests of Principe in my rental car.

Exploring the lush, green rainforests of Principe in my rental car.

I chose to rent a car on both São Tomé and Principe.

On São Tomé, I paid EUR €40 per day, while on Principe, I paid EUR €50 per day.

Exploring São Tomé Island in my rental car.

Exploring São Tomé Island in my rental car.

In both cases, I had the option to add a guide/ driver at an additional EUR €50 per day.

All car license plates in São Tomé and Príncipe are prefixed with "STP".

All car license plates in São Tomé and Príncipe are prefixed with “STP”.

With a lack of road signs and rough, muddy, treacherous roads, I was very glad that I paid for a local driver on both islands.

My rental car, at Cascata de Sao Nicolau on São Tomé.

My rental car, at Cascata de Sao Nicolau on São Tomé.


That’s the end of my São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide.

If you wish to leave any comments or contact me, you can do so using the form below or the via the Contact page.

Safe Travels!
Darren


Further Reading

Following is a list of my travel content from the region:

São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide

São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide

São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide

São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide

São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide

São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide São Tomé and Principe Travel Guide

Travel Quiz 75: UNESCO Heritage Sites Quiz

UNESCO Heritage Sites Quiz: Cover Photo: Istiqlal Mosque in Jakarta, Indonesia is the largest mosque in Southeast Asia.

UNESCO Heritage Sites Quiz

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01. Which mountain is part of the "Tasmanian Wilderness" UNESCO World Heritage Area?

A view of Dove Lake and Cradle Mountain from Glacier rock.
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02. "Dilmun Burial Mounds" are a UNESCO WHS located in which country?

Dilmun-era Burial Mounds, Bahrain.
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03. The water temples of which island comprise a serial UNESCO World Heritage Site?

Asia Travel Quiz: Taman Ayun Temple in Bali
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04. "Site of Palmyra" is a UNESCO WHS located in which country?

The ruins of Palmyra, Syria
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05. "Everglades National Park" is a UNESCO WHS site located in which US state?

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The refreshing and spectacular, Jasper Creek Waterfalls, a highlight of the Canaima National Park.
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ETH_Harar Old Town
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08. "La Réunion National Park" is a UNESCO WHS located in which ocean?

As seen from my helicopter flight, one of the three volcanic Cirques which form the interior of Réunion.
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09. "Melaka and George Town, Historic Cities of the Straits of Malacca" are urban UNESCO WHS located in which country?

MYR_Georgetown Penang Shop
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10. "Archaeological Site of Leptis Magna" is a UNESCO WHS located in which country?

The Arch of Septimius Severus is a triumphal arch in Leptis Magna. It was commissioned by the Libya-born Roman Emperor Septimius Severus.
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11. "Samarkand – Crossroads of Cultures" is a UNESCO WHS located in which country?

Asia Travel Quiz: The Registan and its three madrasahs. From left to right: Ulugh Beg Madrasah, Tilya-Kori Madrasah and Sher-Dor Madrasah.
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12. "Agave Landscape and Ancient Industrial Facilities of Tequila" is a UNESCO WHS located in which country?

MEX_Tequilla Production Artwork
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13. "Chan Chan Archaeological Zone" is a UNESCO WHS located in which country?

The Chimú culture was centred on Chimor with the capital city of Chan Chan, a large adobe city in the Moche Valley of present-day Trujillo, Peru.
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14. "Old Havana" is a UNESCO WHS located in which country?

A treasure trove of Spanish-era colonial architecture, Plaza Vieja, in Havana old town, dates from 1559.
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15. "Cultural Landscape and Archaeological Remains of the Bamiyan Valley" is a UNESCO WHS located in which country?

A place of incredible natural beauty, Bamyan is known for its giant Buddha statues which were, unfortunately, destroyed by the Taliban in 2001.
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16. "Golestan Palace" is a UNESCO WHS located in which city?

Golestan Palace consists of gardens, royal buildings, and collections of Iranian crafts and European presents from the 18th and 19th centuries.
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17. "Cliff of Bandiagara (Land of the Dogons)" is a UNESCO WHS located in which country?

Mali: Granaries in the Dogon Country
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18. "Al Zubarah" is a UNESCO WHS listed fort, located in which country?

Al Zubarah fort aglow in the afternoon sunlight.
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19. "Churches of Chiloé" is a UNESCO WHS located in which country?

Providing information on the unique wooden churches of Chiloé Island, the 'Iglesia de Chiloé Visitor Centre' is housed in a former church in the northern town of Ancud.
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20. "City of Potosí" is a UNESCO WHS located in which country?

View of Cerro Rico from San Lorenzo Church in Potosi, Bolivia. Otherwise known as the mountain that eats men, close to 8 million miners have been killed inside Cerro Rico.
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Travel Quiz 75: UNESCO Heritage Sites Quiz
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