How to provide proof of onward travel when travelling on a one-way ticket.
Last Updated: November 2022
“Can I please see Proof of Onward Travel?”
For someone travelling on a one-way ticket, this sweat-inducing request can come anytime, from either an airline employee during check-in, or an immigration officer, when entering a country.
The need to provide proof of onward travel, when journeying to a country, is the curse of the modern, nomadic traveller who travels with no fixed plan or schedule.
Whilst most countries are happy to welcome visitors, none are happy if you overstay your welcome and, increasingly, airlines and immigration officials want to know you have a confirmed departure date.
If, when asked, you are unable to show proof of onward travel, airlines can refuse to board you and immigration officers can refuse to admit you into their country.
For almost all conventional travellers, who travel with return tickets or have onward flights, this requirement presents no problems.
However, for the tiny percentage of nomadic, meandering souls (especially backpackers), who wish to remain free from the constraints of a planned itinerary and hop around the planet using one-way tickets, this requirement can be onerous.
How to remain flexible, with a fluid itinerary, while satisfying a requirement which forces you to commit to a firm departure date?
Onward Travel Hack
One travel hack is provided by Priceline.com, and other Expedia companies, who offer a free 23-hour cancellation window on certain tickets.
A Priceline.com ticket, with the free 23-hour cancel option highlighted.
If, for example, you’re flying into Thailand on a one-way ticket and need to provide proof of onward travel you could purchase a cheap one-way flight to nearby Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnam) with the free cancel option.
Such a ticket should be purchased just before you depart for the airport, as you will have just 23-hours to cancel the ticket from the time of purchase.
Flight ticket purchased through Priceline with the ‘Cancel Your Flight’ option clearly shown.
You can then use this legitimate ticket as proof of onward travel!
Once you reach your destination, you then simply login to your booking and select the ’Cancel Your Flight’ option.
The full cost of the flight will be refunded to the credit card which was used to book the flight.
Once you reach your destination, you can simply cancel your Priceline flight ticket.
You are now free to continue your travels and organise your departure at a later date.
Of course, this hack only works provided you will have entered your destination within 23 hours of ticket purchase – beyond that, you will be penalised for any changes or cancellation.
That’s the end of this post. I hope it has provided you with some useful information which can be used next time you need to show proof of an onward flight.
Home to 19,000,000 souls, the capital of The People’s Republic of Bangladesh, Dhaka, is a hot, humid, gritty, grimy, dusty, impoverished, chaotic city, a place which guarantees to assault all of your senses.
Girls squeezed onto a Bicycle Rickshaw in old Dhaka.
Despite all of these characteristics, Dhaka has an incessant energy which makes the city exciting, dynamic and far from dull. Add to the mix the Bangladeshis themselves, who are some of the friendliest and most welcoming people you’ll ever meet, and it all makes for a rewarding and unforgettable travel experience.
An underground water fountain at the Museum of Independence in Dhaka.
Tourism is completely undeveloped in Bangladesh and travelling is a challenge. I saw almost no other foreigners during my ten days in the country and it was clear from the reaction of most locals that I was possibly the first foreigner they had ever encountered.
Everyone was curious, friendly and welcoming and many wanted to know my nationality. The Cricket World cup was being played during my visit, so when I replied that I was from Australia, people smiled and told me how much they admired the Australian cricket team.
Two local girls enjoying a day out at Lalbagh Fort during the ‘Eid al-Fitr’ three-day holiday.
Currently, the country is best suited to intrepid adventurers but things are slowly improving. Bangladesh sees very few tourists. Whether it’s because of the lack of blockbuster sights, or a bad reputation, few tourists make it here.
Regretfully, the majority of international news coverage on Bangladesh draws attention to unfortunate circumstances, natural disasters and poverty impacting this nation of 167,000,000.
Visiting the Pink Palace (Ahsan Manzil) in Old Dhaka.
Perception! Perception! Perception! It’s all about perception and unfortunately the negative perception of Bangladesh has had an adverse influence on the country’s tourism industry and has greatly hampered marketing and promotional initiatives. Bangladesh lags greatly behind its South-East Asian neighbour’s; many of whom having made remarkable progress in tourism development in recent years.
Things are starting to turn around with the Bangladesh Tourism Board firmly focused on increasing tourist arrival numbers. A recent relaxing of visa requirements, which now allow many nationalities to obtain Visas on Arrival (see the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section below for more details), have made it easier to enter the country.
A young worshipper at the Tara mosque in Old Dhaka.
Despite the hardships, the Bangladeshis are amazing hosts and will go out of their way to welcome you. I would nominate the people of Bangladesh as some of the friendliest on the planet.
For those who take the time to delve beneath the grimy surface, the rewards are plentiful. As for security, the country is very safe and at no time did I feel threatened or at risk. After ten days in the capital, I was sad to say goodbye.
Spaghetti junctions – power cables in Dhaka.
Location
Dhaka, Bangladesh
Located in South Asia, Bangladesh, is almost completely surrounded by India from which it was created during the Partition of India. At 4,155 km (2,582 mi) long, the land border between Bangladesh and India is one of the longest in the world.
In the south-east, Bangladesh shares a 273 km (170 mi) long border with Myanmar which is currently closed. To the south lies the Bay of Bengal.
A map at the Liberation War Museum shows the position of Bangladesh (shaded green) to the east of India.
Bangladesh is predominantly rich, fertile, flat land with most areas lying less than 12 m above sea level. The country is criss-crossed by some of the largest rivers in Asia which flow down from the Himalayas.
The countryside is dominated by the fertile and low-lying, Ganges-Brahmaputra delta, which is prone to annual flooding resulting in the displacement of huge numbers of people.
Flag
The flag of Bangladesh flying at the Eternal Flame monument.
The flag of Bangladesh consists of a red disc on a bottle-green field, with the disc representing the sun rising over Bengal and the green field symbolising the lushness of Bangladesh. The red disc, which originally included a yellow map of Bangladesh, is offset slightly toward the hoist-side.
People
Bangladeshi visitor’s observing a mural of Bangladeshi leaders inside the Pink Palace museum.
The name Bangladesh means the Land of Bengal and, with a population of 167,000,000 is the world’s 8th-most populous country, as well as one of its most densely-populated. The capital, Dhaka, has a population of 19,000,000 in its greater metropolitan area making it the largest city in the country and one of the largest in the world.
Most Bangladeshis are Muslims (87%) while the remaining 13% are Hindus. Unlike Islamic countries in the Middle East, Bangladeshi woman play an active role in society, with the current Prime Minister being Sheikh Hasina, the country’s 2nd female Prime Minister. Many Muslim woman choose not to wear a head scarf.
Two sisters visiting the National Museum in Dhaka.
Bangladeshi Diaspora
According to the National Population and Housing Census of 2011, 2.8 million Bangladeshis were living abroad, 95% of whom were men. Many of these are based in the Gulf states of Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates, Qatar, Oman, Bahrainand Kuwaitwhere they work on construction and infrastructure projects, for which they are famously under-paid.
Likewise, significant numbers are employed on similar projects in Malaysia and Singapore. The annual remittances received in Bangladesh by this army of workers is an important economic contributor and, in 2015, amounted to US$15.4 billion.
Countries with significant populations of Bangladeshi workers include:
Middle East:
Saudi Arabia – 1,005,000
United Arab Emirates – 700,000
Kuwait – 150,000
Qatar – 137,000
Oman – 130,000
Bahrain – 90,000
South East Asia:
Malaysia – 1,000,000
Singapore -100,000
Elsewhere:
United States – 187,816
United Kingdom – 950,000
Mehndi
Decorative hand designs made from powdered henna are popular with Bangladeshi woman.
Mehndi is a form of body art originating from the India, in which decorative designs are created on a person’s body, using a paste, created from the powdered dry leaves of the henna plant. Especially popular during festivals, during my visit, many girls were sporting intricate designs on their hands in celebration of the ‘Eid al-Fitr‘ holiday.
Selfies & Photography
Bangladeshis, both young and old, love posing for the camera.
Bangladesh is a photographer’s dream!
Of the 194 countries and territories in which I’ve photographed, Bangladesh stands out as a photographic highlight. The Bangladeshis love posing for the camera and despite the fact that Dhaka is a fast moving, bustling city, locals will always pause to have their photo taken. Whenever I asked to take a photo, permission was granted.
Despite looking like a relaxed scene, this photo was taken on a busy road which was jammed with cycle rickshaws.
Often, while walking through the streets of Old Dhaka, locals would ask me to take their photo. Not happy just to be photographed by the tourist, hundreds of Bangladeshis insisted on snapping a selfie with me. The selfie craze is alive and well in Bangladesh!
Me photographing three locals who requested I pose for selfies with their family members at Lalbagh fort.
My visit coincided with the 3-day ‘Eid-al Fitr‘ holiday, which celebrates the end of Ramadan. During this time, Bangladeshis swarm popular sights such as Lalbagh Fort and the Pink Palace. At every sight, I was the only foreigner in attendance and was well out-numbered by thousands of visitors, many of whom wanted to pose for selfies.
Taking a selfie of a selfie at the Pink Palace.
I, in turn, took photos of those taking selfies. Often people lined up to get selfies or some, who didn’t want to wait, took a selfie of someone else taking a selfie with me.
If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to be a rock star, you only need to visit the sights of Dhaka on a weekend or a public holiday – you will be swarmed by curious locals!
Currency
The Taka features a portrait of the Father of the Nation, Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman.
The official currency of Bangladesh is the Bangladeshi Taka (Tk) which has the international code of BDT. The word taka in Bengali is used generically to mean any money, currency, or notes.
Currently (June 2019), USD$1 = Tk 84.60
The obverse side of the Taka.
Notes are issued by the Bangladesh Bank (the Central Bank of Bangladesh) in denominations of Tk 5, Tk 10, Tk 20, Tk 50, Tk 100, Tk 500 and Tk 1000. All notes feature the portrait of Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, the founding father of Bangladesh.
The reverse side of the Taka features famous buildings and rural scenes.
Costs
A coffee at the upscale Cafe Social, at the Hotel Intercontinental, costs Tk 400 (US$4.70).
The good news for backpackers is that the cost of travelling in this impoverished nation is very budget-friendly. For the flash-packer, mid-range and top-end options provide a more comfortable travel experience, most of which is very affordable, compared to destinations elsewhere.
The excellent barbering duo at the ‘Patuatuli Five Star Salon’ at Bongo Bazar.
The good news for male travellers is that, while you’re in Bangladesh, you will not need to bother shaving yourself! Dhaka is full of cheap barbershops, especially in Old Dhaka, where it seems every 5th shop is devoted to grooming.
A shave costs between Tk 100 (USD$1.17) and involves lots of lathering with shaving foam, a two-pass shave (the 2nd pass leaves your face feeling like a babies you-know-what!) then a splash of invigorating (i.e. stinging) alcohol. The whole process takes 30 mins and is something that should be experienced on a regular basis!
Apart from shaving, a hair-cut costs Tk 100 and a head massage will also cost the same. You could combine all three to treat yourself to a 90-minute pampering session for Tk 300 (US$3.50).
If you’re in the neighbourhood of the Bongo Bazar, I recommend visiting the talented team at Patuatuli Five Star Salon.
Generic Pharmaceuticals
Pharmacies in Dhaka are well stocked with cheap, locally-produced generic versions of all leading drugs.
If, like so many people in this world, you spend a small fortune on prescription drugs, you’ll be happy to know that there’s a thriving pharmaceutical industry in Bangladesh which specialises in making affordable, generic versions of all major drugs. A drug which costs US$1 per tablet elsewhere can be purchased in Bangladesh for less than US$0.20 per tablet.
Pharmacies are everywhere and are always fully stocked. Drugs can be purchased in any quantity and without prescriptions.
Tourism
One of the jewels of Dhaka, the Pink Palace (Ahsan Manzil) museum.
The specific number of tourists who visit Bangladesh is unavailable from any government department, however according to the latest available figures from the UNWTO, 125,000 tourists visited Bangladesh in 2014 (although I saw few foreigners during my stay).
Bangladesh remains a largely unexplored tourist destination, mostly unknown to the international community. Tourism infrastructure is undeveloped and, with crushing crowds, chaotic traffic and impoverished cities – the country remains a destination for intrepid travellers.
The Bangladesh Tourism Board is responsible for promoting tourism and acts as the Tourist Information centre in Dhaka. The office is located in the building next door to the Intercontinental Hotel in the downtown district of Shahbagh.
If you wish to have a local Destination Management Company (DMC) plan your Bangladesh adventure for you, Tourism Window offers a selection of toursof Bangladesh.
Dhaka Sights
A mural of Dhaka adorns the wall of the Kiva Han cafe in Gulshan.
Dhaka is an enormous city, and it shows. It is crowded and always on the move, but that also makes it a dynamic and entertaining place to be. The city streets are a constant flow of traffic and rickshaws, and there is something new to discover at every turn.
Most of the city’s historical monuments and points of interest can be found in the area of Old Dhaka, such as the Lalbagh Fort and the stunning Pink Palace. It’s also an area of great spiritual importance, gathering the Hindu Dhakeshwari Temple, the Orthodox Armenian Church, and the Tara Mosque, among others.
The city’s more modern side can be found in New Dhaka and the neighbourhoods of Gulshan & Banani, two affluent neighbourhoods where you can find large upscale shopping centres and international restaurants, mixing more tranquil residential areas with commercial buildings and businesses.
Different sights are closed on different days of the weeks. There’s nothing more frustrating than negotiating the crazy traffic of Dhaka to then arrive somewhere to find the gates locked so it’s always best to check opening times in advance. I have included opening hours under each sight.
A balloon seller in Old Dhaka.
Old Dhaka
Dhakeshwari Mandir
The Shiva temples in Dhakeshwari Mandir.
Dhakeshwari Mandir (means “Goddess of Dhaka”) may seem modern, but it stands on a sacred spot, where temples have stood for centuries. Pronounced ‘Dhakesh-shwori‘, it is the centre of the Hindu religion in Bangladesh, dedicated to Dhakeshwari, the protector deity of the city.
A drummer in front of the main temple at Dhakeshwari Temple.
The original temple was built in the 12th century and it’s said the city is named after the goddess. The temple was severely damaged during the 1971 Bangladesh Liberation War, when the Indian army mistook it for a mosque. During the war, the main worship hall was taken over by the Pakistan Army who used it as an ammunition storage area.
Hindu worshippers at Dhakeshwari Temple.
Shoes are to be left at a cloak room by the front gate for which a small fee is payable.
Opening Hours: The temple is open every day and is always busy with worshippers.
Tickets: Entrance is free.
Lalbagh Fort
A fine panoramic view of Lalbagh Fort which is surrounded by the congested streets of Old Dhaka.
Located in the heart of Old Dhaka, the beautifully serene Lalbagh fort is an incomplete 17th-century Mughal fort complex which is surrounded by lush gardens, providing a vital green space in an otherwise congested part of town.
The best panoramic view of the entire complex (as seen above) is from the rooftop Royal Castle restaurant which occupies the 4th floor of a building across from the main entrance of the fort.
The Tomb of Pari Bibi surrounded by hordes of local visitors during the ‘Eid al-Fitr’ holiday.
Construction on the complex was started in 1678 AD but was never completed. Surrounded on all sides by a crush of humanity, the fort complex includes three monuments: the Quilla Mosque, the Tomb of Pari Bibi and the Hall of Audience, which is the only building open to visitors.
Weekend visitors throng to Lalbagh Fort in Old Dhaka.
The most iconic building, the Tomb of Pari Bibi is closed to visitors, but you can peer through the open, grilled windows to view the tomb of Pari Bibi – the daughter of Shaista Khan.
The Hall of Audience at Lalbagh Fort houses a small museum.
The Hall of Audience, also known as the ‘Diwan-i-Aam‘, is a two storied former residence of the Mughal governor of Bengal. It houses a small museum and the remains of a hamman (Turkish bath).
A sad sight – ancient hand-written, gold-leaf, Islamic manuscripts rotting away in the humid heat.
Included in the museum displays are several dusty, glass display cases which house incredibly beautiful, ancient, hand-written, gold-leaf Islamic manuscripts. Anywhere else in the world, these would be prized items in any museum, but here, they are slowly rotting away in a sweltering hot room which is fully open to the hot, humid, polluted city.
The three-domed Quilla Mosque is part of the Lalbagh fort complex.
The third building in the complex is the Quilla mosque, which is accessible through a side gate from the main street.
Bangladeshi girls looking resplendent in their colourful Shalwar Kameez at Lalbagh fort.
Opening Hours: The museum is closed on Sunday, open Monday from 2 pm – 5 pm, then Tuesday to Saturday from 9 am to 5 pm.
Tickets: Tickets cost Tk 20 for locals and Tk 200 for foreigners.
Video:
The tight streets around Lalbagh Fort can be very congested, as can be seen in this video which I filmed outside the main gate.
Ahsan Manzil Museum
The Pink Palace (Ahsan Manzil) museum.
Perhaps the city’s most iconic landmark, the Ahsan Manzil Palace (Pink Palace) museum is located on the busy Buriganga River and once served as the official residential palace and seat of the Nawab of Dhaka.
The stately Ahsan Manzil Palace is one of the most significant architectural monuments of Bangladesh.
This impressive palace dates back to 1872 and is a must for any visit to Dhaka. Renovations in the 1980’s have left all 23 rooms just as they looked at their most luxurious and grandiose, and a walk through the palace is like a trip through time.
Crushing crowds of local visitors entering the sweltering interior of the Pink Palace museum.
I visited the palace on a weekend which I would not recommend unless you like to engage in a rugby-style scrum to get a ticket from the tiny ticket window (which, at the time of my visit was surrounded by hundreds of people, pushing and shoving, trying to purchase a ticket). Once you have a ticket, you then battle crushing crowds, who push their way through the 23, tight, stuffy, hot, (un) air-conditioned rooms of the palace. During my visit I was asked to pose for dozens of selfies. Better to visit mid-week!
A Bangladeshi visitor at Ahsan Manzil.
Opening Hours: The museum is closed on Thursday, open Friday from 3 pm – 8 pm, then Saturday to Wednesday from 10:30 am to 5:30 pm.
Tickets: Tickets cost Tk 20 for locals and Tk 500 for foreigners.
Armenian Church
The Armenian ‘Church of the Holy Resurrection’ in Old Dhaka.
Within the windy streets of Old Dhaka is a district known as Armanitola. The district takes its name from a significant Armenian settlement which existed in the old town during the 17th and 18th centuries. The centre piece of the community was an old Armenian church – the Church of the Holy Resurrection, which is located on Armenian Street.
The gravestone of Catachik Avatik Thomas includes a statue of his wife.
Founded in 1781, the Church of the Holy Resurrection can be visited free of charge any day of the week. The church is surrounded by a small cemetery where 350 people are buried. One prominent grave includes a statue on the tombstone of Catachik Avatik Thomas, portraying his wife.
Many tombstones are written in Armenian and English script, including one which memorialises ‘Avietter Gregory’, who was born in Shiraz (Iran) and died in Dhaka at the age of 108 years and 4 months.
The tombstone of Avietter Gregory, who was born in Shiraz (Iran) and died in Dhaka at the age of 108!
One modern claim to fame for the church is that Mother Teresa stayed in the church compound during a 1996 visit to Dhaka.
Opening Hours: The church is open every day and is accessible via a covered gate from the main street. If the church doors are locked, an onsite attendant can provide access.
Tickets: Entrance is free.
Tara (Star) Mosque
Built in the first half of the 19th century, the ornate Star mosque is decorated with motifs of blue stars made from tiles imported from England and Japan.
Located a short walk from the Armenian church, the Tara Mosque, or Star Mosque, is covered in beautifully detailed mosaics.
Originally built in the late 18th century in the Mughal style, the mosque was renovated 50 years ago using Chinese clay tiles imported from Japan and England. The mosque is covered with tiled blue stars, hence the alternate name of ‘Star mosque’.
Worshippers attend Friday lunchtime prayer at the Star Mosque.
I attended the mosque during Friday lunchtime prayers. In most Islamic countries, a tourist could never enter a mosque at such a holy time of the week, however at the Tara mosque, I was invited by worshippers to enter.
Opening Hours: The mosque is open every day.
Tickets: Entrance is free.
Sadarghat Boat Terminal
A view of the Buriganga River and the Sadarghat Boat Terminal, the busiest boat terminal in Bangladesh.
The busy, and heavily polluted, Buriganga River runs through the centre of Dhaka and is home to the sprawling Sadarghat Boat Terminal (means ‘City Wharf‘), the largest such terminal in Bangladesh.
Sadarghat Boat Terminal in Dhaka.
The wharf is located in front of the Pink Palace museum and from here, large passenger vessels operate to most parts of the country, taking advantage of the large watery highways which crisscross the country.
Video:
What’s it like at the busiest boat terminal in Bangladesh?
I shot the following video from one of the many piers.
Numerous wooden ferries cross the river, connecting the two banks which are home to many large piers. The area in front of the Pink Palace is home to a large, chaotic produce market which makes for excellent photography.
Docked wooden ferries at Sadarghat boat terminal.
For the best panoramic photos of the busy river and terminal, you should climb the stairs onto the Babubazarroad bridge which is a short walk north of the Pink Palace museum.
New Dhaka
Bangladesh National Museum
The Bangladesh National Museum is the largest museum in the country.
Located in the Shahbagh district of New Dhaka, the engaging and comprehensive Bangladesh National Museum (BNM) takes visitors on a tour through the country’s natural, social and art history, its geology, flora and fauna, and much more.
Constructed in 1982, the museum was designed by Syed Mainul Hossain, a famous Bangladeshi engineer and architect. With display’s housed in 45 rooms, over three levels, the museum is a compulsory stop if you wish to understand the complex history and culture of Bangladesh and, depending on your interest, could require several hours.
Twin sisters exploring a gallery at the Bangladesh National Museum.
Many of the displays are old and dated, especially the huge wooden map of Bangladesh on the ground floor, where different districts are indicated by little lights (which a seated attendant will illuminate upon request).
Of the 45 galleries, some have recently been renovated, giving them a modern look and cool feel, thanks to air-con being installed, while other galleries are very old, dusty and dated and feel like sauna’s due to a lack of A/C. Not surprisingly, the hordes tend to linger longer in the cooler galleries!
Where else in the world can you view the Mona Lisa alongside the Last Supper? The Bangladesh National Museum of course!
One of the more interesting galleries is located on the third floor and is devoted to World Art. It’s here where you’ll find some of the world’s finest works of art – albeit not the original versions.
Why should an impoverished nation waste precious money acquiring expensive western artworks when it can simply frame coloured prints of different works. Where else can you view Da Vinci’s “Mona Lisa” and “The Last Supper” side-by-side. The gallery includes works from all the great masters, from Matisse to Van Gogh to Picasso and many more – all in poster form.
Opening Hours: The museum is closed on Thursday, open Friday from 2:30 pm – 7:30 pm, then Saturday to Wednesday from 10:30 am to 5:30 pm.
Tickets: Tickets cost Tk 20 for locals and Tk 500 for foreigners. Camera’s and bags are not allowed inside.
Suhrawardi Park
A young snack vendor in Suhrawardi Park.
Located across the busy road from the Bangladesh National Museum, Suhrawardi Park was once a racetrack, and the place where the Bangladeshi Declaration of Independence took place. The park is home to two important sights; the Eternal Flame and the Museum of Independence.
Museum of Independence
Terracotta murals and the 50-metre high ‘Tower of Light’ mark the entrance to the newly built Museum of Independence.
Opened in 2015, on the occasion of the 45th anniversary of Independence, this is one of the best kept secrets in Dhaka. Literally! The whole museum is hidden underground and is built on the sight where the historic declaration of Independence was given by Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, the founding father of modern Bangladesh.
Terracotta panels at the entrance to the Museum of Independence feature heroes from the War of Liberation.
The entrance to the museum features a terracotta mural depicting the Bengal nation’s struggle for emancipation. Nearby, the 50-metre high, glass monument tower – the Tower of Light – is composed of stacked glass panels which are illuminated at night.
A display in the Museum of Independence shows the declaration of Independence made by Sheikh Mujibur Rahman on the sight of the present museum.
The museum features a collection of over 300 historic photographs in 144 glass panels that depict the history of Bangladesh and its struggle for Independence. A modern, concrete space, one of the most striking features of the museum is the underground waterfall.
Underground waterfall at the Museum of Independence.
Opening Hours: The museum is open everyday from 10:30 am to 5:30 pm, except on Friday when it is open from 3 pm to 8 pm.
Tickets: Tickets cost Tk 20 for locals and Tk 200 for foreigners.
Eternal Flame
The Eternal Flame Monument marks the spot where, in 1971, Sheikh Mujibur Raman gave his famous speech of Independence.
Located alongside the Museum of Independence, the Eternal Flame monument marks the spot where, in 1971, the independence leader, Sheikh Mujibur Raman, delivered a historic oath of independence.
Baitul Mukarram National Mosque
Baitul Mukarram’s large cube shape was modelled after the Ka’abah at Mecca.
Located in downtown Dhaka, the Baitul Mukarram mosque is the National Mosque of Bangladesh. Although it has a capacity of 30,000 – the mosque has often suffered from overcrowding. Due to this, the Bangladeshi government have added extensions to the mosque, increasing its capacity to at least 40,000.
Turquoise-coloured columns provide a splash of colour in the otherwise austere interior of the Baitul Mukarram mosque.
The mosque accommodates worshippers on two levels, which are built within a large cube structure, which was modelled after the Ka’abah at Mecca.
Opening Hours: The mosque is open every day.
Tickets: Entrance is free.
Parliament Building
The National Parliament House in Dhaka.
Located in New Dhaka, the modern National Parliament House was designed by American architect Louis I. Kahn and has the distinction of being one of the largest legislative complexes in the world.
The National Parliament house is featured on the 1000 taka bank note.
Known as the Jatiya Sangsad Bhaban, the entire compound is off-limits to the public but can be visited by tourists after presenting yourself and your passport to the guards at the security gate and paying a fee of Tk 600. Visiting hours are from 10 am to 12 pm.
Liberation War Museum
A mural at the Liberation War museum features the founding father of Bangladesh, Sheikh Mujibur Raman.
Located a short drive north of Parliament house in New Dhaka, the Liberation War Museum commemorates the Bangladesh Liberation War that led to the independence of Bangladesh from Pakistan.
The modern, concrete, multi-level museum sits in stark contrast alongside a slum of small, corrugated-iron shacks. The footpath of the museum acts as a playground for the children from the slum.
The Liberation War Museum depicts the struggle for independence.
Opened in 1996, the museum features informative and engaging display’s which are arranged in four galleries over two levels. The displays outline the protracted struggle of the people of Bangladesh for establishing their identity as a nation under the British regime as well as their struggle for democracy, political and economic emancipation from Pakistani rule, following the division of India.
A display at the Liberation War Museum in Dhaka.
Opening Hours: The museum is open everyday from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm, except on Sunday.
Tickets: Tickets cost Tk 20 for locals and foreigners. Camera’s and bags are not allowed inside.
Shopping
New Market
One of the entrance arches to the New Market complex.
Dhaka’s ‘New Market’ was Bangladesh’s first attempt at creating a modern, family-friendly, open-air shopping centre, and has been a central hub for all shopping in the city for over 70 years. The market is home to many electronic and textile shops and features a number of restaurants which provide cheap, filling meals for less than Tk 300.
New Market is home to numerous tailor shops and Sari boutiques.
If you wish to have a business shirt tailor-made, shops in the market charge Tk 1,600 (US$19) per shirt but require 7 days to complete an order.
Bongo Bazar
A seller of Islamic books at Bongo Bazar.
The Bongo Bazar is loud, chaotic and at times overwhelming, but that only adds to the experience. Vendors here sell the excess brand-name clothes that you would end up buying at expensive boutiques in America and Europe for a fraction of the price.
The sprawling bazar covers a whole district of town, and features different buildings which specialise in particular goods, with one of the more interesting being a building overflowing with Islamic books.
Aranya
The stylish Aranya boutique sells traditional, handmade cotton and silk clothing which is dyed using natural colours.
Established in 1990 with a focus on revising the process of natural dye, Aranya is perhaps the best place to get high-quality traditional Bangladeshi clothing. Silk, cotton and other yarns are hand-dyed and then woven and embroidered into saris, ready-to-wears and other accessories.
Silk scarves on sale at Aranya’s main boutique in Banani.
An established fair trade initiative, their main showroom is located at #60 Kamal Ataturk Avenue in Banani.
Accommodation
The wonderful Golden Tulip hotel is a great 4-star option in Banani.
Hotels.com currently list 147 properties in Dhaka while Booking.com lists 140 properties. While hotels can be found all over the city, many of the mid-range and top-end options are located in the upscale, adjacent neighbourhoods of Banani and Gulshan.
During my stay, I resided at the Golden Tulip Hotel, a 4-star property in Banani which offers excellent service, comfortable rooms and breakfast for Tk 6,600 (US$78) per night.
My very comfortable and affordable room at the Golden Tulip hotel in Banani.
Located on a quiet side street, away from the incessant cacophony of street noise, the hotel offers a rooftop pool, gym, Thai spa and provides airport transfers for Tk 1,600 (US$19).
The deluxe, Intercontinental hotel, is located in the downtown district of Shahbagh.
If you wish to splurge on a fine top-end option (US$190 per night), the amazing Intercontinental Hotel is located in the downtown district of Shabagh, a short walk from the National Museum, Independence museum and other sights.
Eating Out
Chinigura Rice
Light and fluffy, the short-grain Chinigura rice is the national rice of Bangladesh.
The basis for every meal in Bangladesh, the locally grown Chinigura rice is described as a ‘short grain‘ rice, but is one which I would describe as a ‘microscopic grain‘ rice. A delicate Bangladeshi rice, it’s smaller than Basmati and tastes similar to Jasmine rice.
My little finger provides a sense of scale against the tiny Chinigura grains.
About a 1/3 the size of a regular grain of rice, Chinigura is always served light and fluffy and in large quantities. Previously, Basmati was my all-time favourite rice, however after visiting Bangladesh, I have been converted and Chinigura is now my #1 rice choice.
Restaurants
Most meals in Bangladesh are served with a huge portion of Chinigura rice.
The cuisine of Bangladesh has been shaped by the country’s long history and geographical location and is made up of a diverse range of delicious spices, herbs, rice, fish, meats and naan breads. Curries are one of the most popular forms of Bangladeshi food and many restaurants in Dhaka offer opportunities to sample the local cuisine.
Whether I dined in cheap and cheery budget restaurants or more deluxe establishments, the service was excellent, the food tasty and always the owner would ask if I was satisfied with my meal. Meal prices in budget restaurants average Tk 200 – 300 while in more expensive restaurants you pay up to Tk 1,000. Upmarket restaurants will add 25% tax to the cost of a meal which is comprised of 10% service charge and 15% VAT/ GST.
Old Dhaka is home to lots of grimier budget restaurants while the ritzy new town neighbourhoods of Banani and Gulshan are home to mid-range and top-end restaurants and western fast food chains such as Burger King, A&W, KFC, Johnny Rockets and Pizza Hut. You will not find McDonald’s in Bangladesh.
Served at Tarka restaurant, the excellent Dosa is filled with Chicken Marsala and is accompanied by two delicious homemade sauces.
Many restaurants in Banani and Gulshan are located on the upper levels of office towers, so it’s essential to gaze upwards when looking for somewhere to dine.
One of my favourite restaurants in Banani is the excellent Tarka Restaurant which serves the most amazing curries with lots of fluffy Chinigura rice. Their Dosa (cooked flat thin layered rice batter) is very tasty and goes best with a signature, freshly blended Lassi (a blend of yogurt, water and spices).
Cafes
Artwork on the walls of the trendy Kiva Han Cafe, which is located in the upscale Gulshan district.
Coffee culture is alive and well in Dhaka with many local cafes providing the perfect caffeine hit. One of my favourites was inspired by the world’s first coffee shop in Istanbul. The charming Kiva Han is located in a quiet side street in upmarket Gulshan and features walls covered in colourful, hand-painted artwork. Apart from great coffee, the Kiva Han offers fusion food, tasty sandwiches, burgers and cakes.
The Kiva Han cafe is an ideal place to escape the hustle and bustle of Dhaka.
Starbucks has no presence in Bangladesh, but it’s not needed, with the locally-owned cafe chain, North End Coffee Roasters, satisfying the caffeine requirements of thirsty locals. Originally from the North End of Boston, the company now has nine branches in Dhaka and offers great, freshly roasted coffee and excellent pastries. Wi-Fi is available with the cost of a regular-size Cappuccino or Latte being Tk 200.
Artwork on the walls of the Banani branch of North End Coffee Roasters.
A highly recommended, upmarket cafe is the Cafe Social which is located on the ground floor of the Intercontinental Hotelin downtown Dhaka.
Located In the heart of chaotic Dhaka, the Cafe Social maintains an air of quiet calm.
The cafe offers free Wi-Fi, wonderful coffee, incredible cakes, pastries and a comprehensive menu. As is to be expected from one of the best hotels in town, prices are not cheap but it’s great to indulge – at least once every day!
Sweet Shops
Mouth-watering sweets on offer at the legendary ‘Madina Mishtanno Bhandar’ in Old Dhaka.
Bangladeshis have a sweet tooth and love nothing more than to frequent one of the many sweet shops which are to be found in every neighbourhood of Dhaka. One of my favourites is Madina Mishtanno Bhandar which is located a short walk from Lalbagh fort in Old Dhaka. Madina is a local institution where each piece of their syrupy, sweet morsels of heaven cost just Tk 10.
Located a short walk from Lalbagh fort, the Madina sweet shop offers tasty local sweets at very affordable prices.
The basis of most deserts is sugar, milk, ghee and Chhena, which is curd made from water buffalo or regular cow milk and is similar to cottage cheese. Sweet shops always offer cups of milky Chai (tea) which is the perfect accompaniment to a small sampling plate of sweets.
For further information on the sweet culture, the Top 10 Sweets of Bangladesh are covered in this article.
Bars
Generally, alcohol is not available in Bangladesh, but can be procured in a few lounge bars which are hidden away inside the top-end hotels.
Visa Requirements
A Bangladeshi ‘Visa on Arrival’ stamp.
Currently, 23 nationalities do not require a visa to enter Bangladesh while many other nationalities can obtain a visa on arrival (see the following section for more details). To check your requirements, refer to the Visa Policy of Bangladesh.
Visa on Arrival Process
Visa-on-Arrival Guide
A very comprehensive VOA guide has been made available by Nijoom Tours, a Dhaka-based tour agency.
In order to encourage tourism, the Government of Bangladesh has recently relaxed visa requirements, allowing nationalities from certain countries (refer to the Visa Policy) to apply for a Visa Upon Arrival (VOA) at Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport.
The process is straightforward but time consuming. At the time of my arrival, I was one of four applicants. My visa was issued after a wait of one hour.
A description of the process is included here:
Upon arrival, eligible passport holders should approach the ‘Visa Upon Arrival‘ desk, which is located inside the immigration hall.
You hand your passport to an immigration officer, who will record the details of your passport on a paper register. Any other applicants will also have their details recorded on the same register
Once everyone is registered, the form is then sent (faxed/ emailed?) to Police headquarters in Dhaka, where all applicants are checked against a database. VOA’s will only be issued once the OK is received from headquarters, which, on the day I arrived, took 30 minutes.
The ‘Visa on Arrival’ application form.
While waiting for the clearance process, you should complete the ‘Arrival Card‘ and the ‘Visa Application‘ form.
The Bangladesh Arrival Card.
The visa fee should also be paid at the bank booth which is located alongside the VOA desk. The visafee is US$51 and is payable in US dollars cash only.
Bank receipt for my visa fee payment.
Once the police check is completed, the senior immigration officer will issue your VOA by stamping your passport.
You are now free to exit the immigration hall by sailing past the ever-present, long lines of Bangladeshis and exit through the far left lane which is reserved for crews and diplomats (you just have to flash your VOA stamp to the immigration officer).
Getting There
Air
Ready to board my Biman Bangladesh flight at Changi airport, Singapore.
Flights to Dhaka arrive at Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport, (IATA: DAC) which is located 18 kilometres north of Dhaka. The airport has three terminals; T1 and T2 for international flights (in the same building), and the Domestic Terminal.
The airport also serves as a gateway to the isolated Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan, with regular flights to the capital, Paro, by the Bhutanese carrier, Drukair.
With a lack of demand from tourists, most flights to/ from Bangladesh serve as shuttle services for the huge army of Bangladeshi workers, connecting them with countries in the Gulf region and South-east Asia. I flew from Singapore with Biman Bangladesh Airlines on a flight which was fully booked, with one tourist (me!) on board and all other seats occupied by Bangladeshi (male) workers returning home, having completed work contracts in Singapore.
If you’re flying with Biman Bangladesh, you will only be able to manage your booking online if you booked your flight directly via their website. If you booked using an Online Travel Agent (OTA) such as Expedia, Pricelineetc, you will not be able to view your booking on the Biman website.
Boarding my Biman Bangladesh flight from Singapore to Dhaka.
Scheduled Services
The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from Dhaka:
Air Arabia – flies to/from Sharjah
Air Asia – flies to/from Kuala Lumpur–International
Official taxi counters, where you can book and pay for a taxi in advance, are located inside the arrivals hall, to the left of the exit doors. Once you’ve made your payment, an attendant will guide you to your taxi. The fare from the airport to the main hotel districts of Gulshan or Banani, a distance of approximately 6 km, is Tk 1200 (USD$14).
Attempting to board one of the overcrowded public buses which careen along the busy main road would be totally crazy!
Land
The short land border (193 kilometres) with Myanmar is currently closed while the 4,095 km long land border with India offers several crossings points.
Getting Around
Video:
What’s it like to be on the streets of Dhaka?
I shot this video in the Sadarghat neighbourhood.
The incessant traffic in Dhaka can be overwhelming, chaotic, confusing, dangerous and often involves deadlock traffic jams taking hours to clear up. There are no rules, with drivers completely ignoring red lights, zebra crossings and driving on whichever side of the road offers the path of least resistance.
The city offers an amazing array of transportation options, from buses, taxis, cycle-rickshaws, auto-rickshaws, horse-drawn carriages, motorbike taxis, safari trucks and more – all competing for space on the over-crowded streets.
Getting around is easy – provided you speak Bengali! Most Bangladeshis do not read, write or understand English. If you plan to use any form of public transport in Dhaka, you will need to have addresses written in Bengali.
However, in a country with a literacy rate of 72.89%, there are approximately 50,000,000 people who cannot read or write. This includes many of the rickshaw drivers! Many drivers I interacted with had to consult a passer-by to get them to read the address aloud so they could understand where I wished to travel.
All fares should be negotiated in advance!
Public Buses
No – it’s not London! Very old and beaten, red, double-decker buses ply the streets of Dhaka.
Public buses in Dhaka are operated by the Bangladesh Road Transport Corporation (BRTC) whose beaten buses look as if they’ve competed in numerous demolition derby’s.
Hot and sweaty, the buses are often impossibly crowded and just getting on one is a challenge in itself. Running to any sort of timetable in a city as congested as Dhaka is impossible. With a complete lack of signage, the only way to use the system is to simply yell your destination at the conductor – he’s the guy hanging out of the door.
Routes can be confusing, so unless you know exactly which bus to take, it might be best to take a rickshaw.
Intercity Buses
Intercity buses connect Dhaka with all points in Bangladesh. Due to road conditions, buses travel at less than 50 km/h with the 400 km journey between Dhaka and Cox’s Bazar taking at least 10 hours. If you’re short on time, its best to book a domestic flight with either Novoairor Biman Bangladesh Airlines.
A recommended company is Green Line Paribahan who operate luxury coaches from their bus station in the Dhaka district of Rajarbagh. Bookings can be made online but require a local cell phone number.
Cycle Rickshaws
Cycle rickshaws are a great way to cover small distances in Dhaka.
With an estimated 800,000 cycle rickshaws on its streets, Dhaka is known as the world’s capital city of rickshaws.
Ideal over short distances, all rickshaws are pedal-driven but many have been fitted with battery kits, which boost speed while saving the rickshaw-wallahs (drivers) from pedalling all the time.
While I found there was just enough room for me and my camera bag, entire families squeeze onto a single rickshaw.
Plenty of room for an entire family on a bicycle rickshaw.
The cheapest form of transport, the drivers rarely speak English and most will need someone else to ‘read aloud’ any address you hand them since they are often illiterate. Fares should be negotiated in advance but Tk 100 over a short distance is more than reasonable.
Just two of the estimated 800,000 bicycle rickshaws in Dhaka.
While there are many beautifully painted rickshaws, there are also many that are truly dilapidated. This is due to the ownership structure. Most rickshaw drivers don’t own their rickshaws, instead they lease them from an owner. Due to constant profit flows, the owners have no incentive to invest money improving their vehicles.
Video:
What’s it like riding a cycle rickshaw?
I filmed the following video during one of my journey’s in Dhaka.
CNG Auto-rickshaws
Real life Dodgem cars, the CNG Auto-rickshaws are a popular way to travel longer distances in Dhaka.
Just as Bangkok has its Tuk Tuk’s, Dhaka has its Auto-rickshaws, which run on Compressed Natural Gas (CNG). Known as CNG Auto-rickshaws, they are noisy, obnoxious and often down-right dangerous as they duck and weave aggressively, accelerate and brake suddenly and drive on whichever side of the road offers the clearest run.
Video:
What’s it like riding an Auto-rickshaw through Old Dhaka?
I shot the following video during one of my many journey’s.
Never dull, always thrilling and at times alarming, the Auto-rickshaws are a popular way to travel longer distances in Dhaka. More compact than their Thai counterparts, these real-life Dodgem cars are encased in metal mesh which provides passengers with a (false) sense of security.
Depending on your disposition, a ride in one of these will either be exciting and exhilarating or just downright scary!
A view from inside the cage of an Auto-rickshaw!
Despite having functioning meters, the drivers ignore them. Fares should be negotiated before you enter the rickshaw with typical fares being Tk 200-300 for most rides around central Dhaka.
Taxi
Taxis in Dhaka are well out-numbered by the more numerous rickshaws.
In a city which is ruled by rickshaws, taxis can be hard to find. Uber is in operation and is the best way to book a taxi, otherwise, taxis can be found waiting at busy intersections, outside hotel lobbies or the airport.
While taxis have meters, they are never used. Fares should be negotiated prior to starting the journey.
Horse-drawn Carriages
The streets of Dhaka were once home to hundreds of horse-drawn carriages.
Before rickshaws invaded the streets of Dhaka, the city’s thoroughfares were home to hundreds of horse-drawn carriages. Today, around 30 carriages remain and while once they were the preferred mode of transport of the elite, today they serve as a novelty ride for local families.
Boat
The Saderghat Boat terminal is the busiest in Bangladesh.
Given that there are over 8,000 km of navigable inland waterways throughout Bangladesh, boats are a common means of getting around. The busiest boat terminal in the country is the Saderghat Boat terminal which lines the banks of the Buriganga River in Old Dhaka and from which you can catch boats to all points in the country.
Wooden ferries on the Buriganga River provide inexpensive, cross-river travel.
Small wooden ferries provide cross-river travel, connecting the two banks which are home to numerous piers.
Dhaka Metro Rail
Currently under construction, the Dhaka MRT Line-6. Source: Mitsubishi.com
Currently under construction, the Dhaka MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) Line-6 will initially consist of one single, elevated line, which will run from Uttara North, in the north of the city, and Motijheel which lies in the heart of the downtown area.
Once completed, the MRT should help reduce the extreme amount of traffic jams and congestion that occur throughout the city on a daily basis.
Rental Car
Forget it! Only someone with a death-wish would dare to drive on the crazy, chaotic streets of Dhaka. Most cars in the city are fitted with front and rear bumpers for good reason! Let the locals do the driving!
Shaped like a seahorse, the French, Indian Ocean, territory of Mayotte is known for its beautiful lagoon, sandy beaches, and lush green countryside.
A view of Mayotte Lagoon from my ultralight flight over the island.
Created by ancient volcano’s, Mayotte is made up of eroded mountains and meandering streams and consists of two islands; the smaller, Petite Terre (10 km2), which is home to the airport and a beautiful crater lake and the larger, Grande Terre (39 kilometres long / 22 kilometres wide), which is home to the capital Mamoudzou.
The seahorse-shaped Mayotte.
Due to its location and past history, Mayotte faces insurmountable social issues (see the following section), with illegal immigration being the most significant. Historically part of the Comoros, at the time of independence in 1975, Mayotte voted to remain French to benefit from French development funds, which residents feared it would no longer receive. The French then embarked on a development program to modernise the island. This program is ongoing and is very much a ‘work in progress’.
The west coast town of Sada as seen from my ultralight flight over Mayotte.
In 2011, Mayotte became the 101st French département, the country’s newest. The department status of Mayotte is recent and the region remains, by a significant margin, the poorest in France. Mayotte is nevertheless much more prosperous than the other countries of the Mozambique Channel, making it a beacon of hope for illegal refugees.
Mayotte is surrounded by one of the World’s largest lagoons.
The development of Mayotte has created a huge disparity between it and the neighbouring Comoros Island, which is ranked as the 11th poorest nation on earth. While residents on Mayotte earn a third of the salaries of those in metropolitan France, their salaries are 15 times more than those in the neighbouring Comoros.
A shop on Rue du Commerce, the main street of the capital – Mamoudzou.
The capital city of Mayotte is the unremarkable Mamoudzou, which is located on the eastern side of Grand-Terre. An inter-island barge connects Mamoudzou to the island of Petite Terre.
The finest beach on Mayotte, N’Gouja beach is a beautiful gold-sand beach set on a curved bay on the south coast.
Tourism on Mayotte is in its infancy, and with a complete lack of hotels and restaurants, it is a challenging travel destination – best suited to intrepid adventurers.
Social Issues
An excellent introduction to the challenges facing Mayotte is provided in the following Al Jazeera documentary (47 mins), which is compulsory viewing for anyone who wishes to understand the complex social and political issues facing this French outpost.
Airfares between Mayotte and its nearest neighbour, Anjoun, are prohibitively expensive at €300 return on Ewa Airways for the 40 minute flight. Additionally, visa’s to Mayotte, which are required by all Comoran passport holders, cost €100.
All very expensive, which forces Comoran’s to undertake a dangerous sea voyage between the islands. The body of water separating the two islands has become the widest cemetery in the world with an estimated 10,000 Comoran’s drowned, most of them women and children.
My guest house in the town of Sada. Homes on Mayotte are secured with bars and grill doors to prevent robberies.
The French government estimates that illegal immigrants account for 40% of the islands’ population, which places great pressure on Mayotte’s health, housing and education services.
With such a large portion of the population living in makeshift slums, without any opportunity to work, crime levels are high.
Homes on Mayotte are often surrounded by high security walls and secured with barred windows and grilled doors. The pressure created from such a large number of refugees has led to recent protests.
Environmental Issues
A beach, covered with litter, in the east coast town of Sada.
Mayotte is a beautiful tropical island which is blessed with green, forested hills and wonderful tropical beaches. Unfortunately, anywhere there are people, the environment is spoiled by illegal dumping and littering, with lots of plastic waste being washed into the turquoise lagoon.
The French government has installed street-side litter bins in urban areas, especially along the waterfront in downtown Mamoudzou, however the bins mostly remain empty while litter covers the ground around them. Educating the locals to place their rubbish in a bin, rather than dropping it on the ground, requires a cultural change which will take time.
In all towns, large, communal, skip bins have been placed by the roadside, but collections do not keep pace with the amount of rubbish being produced, resulting in piles of rubbish covering the ground. Large recycling bins have been installed in all towns, but plastic waste litters every town.
Location
Mamoudzou, Mayotte
Mayotte is the most easterly island in the Comoros archipelago, located in the Mozambique channel, midway between Mozambique and Madagascar.
With an area of 374 square kilometres, Mayotte is an ancient, volcanic island, the terrain is undulating, with deep ravines and ancient volcanic peaks. The territory is surrounded by one of the largest lagoons in the world which is encompassed by an almost impenetrable fringing reef.
The ‘S’ Pass is one of the few passages through the fringing reef.
People
A Mahorais store owner at Mamoudzou Central market wearing the traditional ‘Salouva’.
The population of Mayotte in 2019 was 270,372. Most of the people on Mayotte are Mahorais of Malagasy origin and are Sunni Muslim with influences from French culture.
While French is the official language, most Mahorais speak Shimaore, the same language which is spoken throughout the Comoros Islands. Mahorais woman often look resplendent in their Salouva, a long cotton tube tied around the chest and falling to the feet.
Unlike other French territories, which have sizeable French ex-pat populations, who contribute to the economy and society, French ex-pats on Mayotte represent just 4% of the population. Most of these are conscripted government workers who work mainly in the municipal administration and are in a position of authority. The French clearly are not embracing their newest département!
Camera Shy Locals
The Mahorais will always hide from the camera.
As a photographer, I was hoping to get some nice people shots on Mayotte, however, I quickly learnt that the Mahorais do not like having their photo taken and will either refuse any requests or turn their back to hide their face. If you want to clear a street in downtown Mamoudzou, you only need to show your camera.
Bao
“Bao” is Swahili for “board” and refers to a traditional mancala board game which is played throughout Africa, including on Mayotte. The objective of the game is to ‘capture and sow’ beads from the opponents side of the board. The one who captures all beads is the winner. It’s believed the game has existed since the 7th century and possibly existed in Ancient Egypt.
Video:
Playing ‘Bao‘ in the village of Sada, Mayotte.
Fauna & Flora
Originally introduced from Madagascar, the Common Brown Lemur is widespread on Mayotte.
The Common Brown Lemur, originally from Madagascar, was introduced by humans prior to European colonisation and is found throughout Mayotte, in both urban and rural areas (these photos were taken in the town of M’zouasia). A sizeable population can be found on N’Gouja beach, on the south coast.
Lemurs are very inquisitive creatures which allows for excellent photography as they pose for the camera.
Lemurs normally live in groups of 5 to 12 and are active during the day and early evening. One evening I watched a parade of 10 lemurs tight-rope walking along the length of a power line in Boueni. Lemurs are by nature, inquisitive creatures which makes it easy to photograph them as they’ll come to investigate you.
A juvenile Common Brown Lemur – even more inquisitive than the parents.
Like many parts of mainland Africa and Madagascar, Mayotte is home to towering baobab trees. These giants of the natural world are omnipresent on Mayotte where they line most beaches. The Baobab originated from sub-Saharan Africa but nowadays is found all over the tropical and sub-tropical parts of the Africa, always in dry places as it does not tolerate humidity.
A towering Baobab tree on Sakouli beach.
The largest Baobab on Mayotte can be found on Musicale beach and has a trunk circumference of 28 m.
The large fruit of the Baobab tree is used by locals to make fruit juice which has a citrus flavour.
The tree produces a large, pendulous fruit which can grow up to 20 to 30 cm in length. The pulp of the fruit is edible and can be eaten out of hand or diluted in water to make a refreshing drink, which can easily be found on restaurant menus.
Currency
The Euro (€).
The official currency of Mayotte is the Euro (€), with €1 currently (June 2019) worth US$1.11.
Several French banks in downtown Mamoudzou provide ATM’s. Outside of the capital, there are very few ATM’s, and most businesses only accept cash or cheques (from French banks) which are still in wide-spread use in the French world.
Costs
Mayotte is not cheap! It’s a mystery why a glass of freshly squeezed juice, made from abundantly available, local, tropical fruit should cost €7!
Sample costs:
Cappuccino at Caribou Hotel: €3 (US$3.36)
Fresh Fruit Juice at Caribou Hotel: €7 (US$7.84)
Car hire (compact car per day): €75 (US$84)
Litre of fuel: €1.34 (US$1.50)
Salad at Caribou Hotel: €15 (US$16.80)
Main course at Caribou Hotel: €27 (US$30.24)
Dessert at Caribou Hotel: €7 (US$7.84)
Room in a budget hotel (Airbnb apartment): (US$80)
Room in a mid-range hotel (Maharajah Hotel): €144 (US$160)
Sights
Mamoudzou
The ‘Place Mariage’ is the prettiest part of downtown Mamoudzou, offering boutiques, travel agents and electronics shops.
Mamoudzou is a charmless, soulless capital which offers little of interest for the visitor. With chaotic streets full of litter, a few hours would be enough to explore the small downtown area, the waterfront and the central market. There’s no reason to stay in town unless you’re here on government duties or for business.
Like their African sisters, the Mahorais woman wear colourful clothing made from African wax printed fabrics.
The main street, the Rue du Commerce, is lined with shops selling cheap Chinese products, with the occasional clothing store offering a splash of colour.
Spices for sale in Mamoudzou central market.
Located on the waterfront, next to the Office de Tourisme, Mamoudzou Central market offers local produce and spices.
The marina in Mamoudzou harbour is home to pleasure craft, all of which are owned by French ex-pats.
The waterfront in Mamoudzou is home to several informal take-away restaurants which have been setup in shipping containers. A marina is home to various small pleasure craft which are used for weekend recreation by the ex-pat community.
A view of Mamoudzou harbour from the ‘Auberge du Rond-Point’ restaurant.
Dzaoudzi
A view of Dzaoudzi from the Inter-island barge.
Petite Terre is comprised of two islands; the smaller Dzaoudzi and the larger Pamanzi, which are connected by a causeway. Dzaoudzi is the terminus for the inter-island barge while Pamanzi is home to the Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.
Until 1962, Dzaoudzi served as the capital of the entire Comoros. Today, this sleepy settlement is Mayotte’s administrative centre and home to Mayotte’s only museum.
The small Musée MUMA in Dzaoudzi provides an overview of Mayotte culture, fauna and flora.
Opened in September 2015, the Musée MUMA (open: 9 am – 5 pm every day except Sunday) is the only attraction in Dzaoudzi and the only museum in the territory.
The skeleton of a Sperm Whale at the Musée MUMA in Dzaoudzi.
The small museum provides an insight into the culture, environment, archaeology and traditions of Mayotte and includes an impressive skeleton from a Sperm Whale which was found in 1995 in the lagoon.
Pamanzi
Located on Petite Terre, the water in Dziani Dzaha crater lake is twice as salty as the nearby sea water.
Located on Pamanzi, the beautiful crater lake of Dziani Dzaha where the emerald-coloured water is twice as salty as the nearby sea water.
Les ULM de Mayotte
Pamanzi is home to the only airport on Mayotte and its where you’ll find the wonderful LesULM de Mayotte, who offer spectacular ultra-light flights over the island, which was the highlight of my trip. Operating from a small wooden cabin, a short distance from the airport, Les ULM de Mayotte are open every day, except Sunday and Monday. Advance reservation is recommended and credit cards are not accepted.
My competent pilot, Fred, and his Skyranger ultralight plane.
I flew with the very capable Fred in his 2-seater Skyranger Ultralight which weighs just 250 kg when empty.
Fred giving me the safety briefing. The plane is equipped with its own parachute for use in emergencies.
Constructed from aluminium tubes and fibreglass panels, the plane has a built-in parachute which can be activated in the event of an emergency, allowing the plane to float back to earth. After a safety briefing, we departed from the airport and flew a one-hour loop over the lagoon and the southern half of Mayotte.
Flying over Mont Choungui, a conical volcanic mountain, located in the south of Mayotte.
After spending a week exploring the territory by road, it was great to be able to view the island from above. My window had a large cut-out section which allowed me to photograph ‘outside the plane’.
One of the many highlights was a loop around the summit of Mont Choungui which is an ancient, conical volcanic mountain and the 2nd highest point on the island at 593 m (1,946 ft).
Flying over the island of Chissioua Mbouzi, en route to the airport.
Sakouli Beach
A panoramic view of Sakouli beach.
Remote and wild, Sakouli beach is located on a remote stretch of the south-east coast, between baobabs and brown volcanic sand.
One of the most beautiful beaches on the island, Sakouli attracts day-trippers from Mamoudzou and is home to the best accommodation on Mayotte – the O’lolo Hôtel (see ‘Accommodation‘ below) which offers tastefully decorated rooms bungalows overlooking the beach.
N’Gouja Beach
N’Gouja beach is the prettiest beach on Mayotte and home to many sea turtles.
Located on the southwest coast of Grand Terre, N’Gouja beach is a beautiful gold-sand beach set on a curved bay. Considered the best beach on Mayotte, its remote location ensures the beach is free of the usual litter. The beach is home to one of the few accommodation options on this part of the island, the Jardin Maoré(see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below).
An aerial view of N’Gouja beach from my Ultralight flight.
Diving is available through Jardin Maoréwhile an offshore sea-grass bed attracts green sea turtles which makes for great snorkelling (see the ‘Diving‘ section below). A sign at the entrance gate indicates that parking costs €20 which is only enforced on the busy weekends. I visited during the week and paid nothing!
The view of the south coast at Kanikeli.
Boueni
The volcanic-sand beach at Boueni.
The west coast town of Boueni offers a brown-sand beach, two restaurants and one terrible accommodation option – Les Pieds dans l’Eau (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below). A shallow onshore reef makes this beach less than ideal for swimming.
Sada
Watching the sunset from Sada beach with the island of Chissioua Sada in the background.
The west coast town of Sada is home to one of the best restaurants on Mayotte, Nasso na Bisso, (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more) and one of the best accommodation options I found on Mayotte – Maison Fleurie (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section for more).
The town makes an ideal base while exploring the west coast and offers spectacular sunsets from the beach.
North Coast
The offshore island of Chissioua Handréma is popular with weekend boaters.
The north coast of Mayotte features rugged mountains which descend to the sea. The best viewpoint is at the picturesque Baie de Handréma which offers views over the island of Chissioua Handréma .
Storm clouds over Baie de Handréma, one of the best views on the north coast.
Diving/ Snorkelling
Mayotte lagoon is surrounded by a fringing reef, offering wonderful diving.
Located in the west coast town of M’zouasia, Abalone Plongée offers diving from their beach-side dive shop. Abalone are one of the few dive operators on Mayotte and are very popular. At the time of my visit, they were booked out for the next five days. Best to book in advance via their website! Single dives with full equipment rental cost €57 (US$63).
Located on the southwest coast, N’Gouja beach is home to a large sea-grass bed which attracts lots of turtles.
A short distance offshore from the beautiful N’Gouja beach, a sea-grass bed attracts green sea turtles, making this a popular snorkelling spot. Diving at N’Gouja beach can be arranged through the Dive Centre at Jardin Maoré.
Accommodation
The biggest hotel on Mayotte, the 70 room, 3-star, Maharajah hotel.
The accommodation scene on Mayotte is very disappointing and could best be described as ‘2-star facilities at 5-star prices‘. There is a complete lack of hotels on the island, and those few that do exist are normally fully booked by the French government and French companies. The best chance of securing accommodation is in one of the beach-side bungalow properties which can be found away from the capital.
With a limited number of hotels, and a complete lack of competition, the few existing properties are always running at close to 100% occupancy, so there’s no need to try too hard and no need to spend money on upgrading facilities. Most properties are old and tired and wouldn’t attract many customers in the real world.
The one saving grace is Airbnb which has about 40 properties listed. However, almost all of these are private rooms in family houses rather than private apartments.
Grande Terre
My Airbnb apartment in Mamoudzou.
Mamoudzou
Hotel Maharajah
With 70 rooms, the 3-star Hotel Maharajah is the largest hotel on Mayotte and a popular choice with French Gendarmerie (police) who seem to occupy most of the rooms, leaving just a few rooms for visitors. At the time of my visit, the only room available was a suite for €280 (US$312) per night. Mamoudzou is hardly Monaco! The cheapest rooms on booking.com or hotels.com average €144 per night (US$160).
Hôtel Caribou
Also downtown is the old and faded 2-star Hôtel Caribou which is in need to a complete makeover – but since there’s no competition in town, why spend the money! Like the few other hotels on Mayotte, the Caribou normally operates at close to 100% and is a popular choice for visiting French businessmen. The hotel restaurant/ bar is very popular, with Karaoke once a week.
Sakouli Beach
The O’lolo Hôtel overlooks Sakouli beach which is home to some impressive Baobab trees.
The O’lolo Hôtel overlooks the popular east coast beach of Sakouli, a volcanic sand beach which is framed by towering Baobab trees. Tastefully decorated, wooden bungalows, start at €110 (US$123). The onsite restaurant provides the only food for miles around.
N’Gouja Beach
Located on N’Gouja beach, Jardin Maoréoffers simple bungalows from €160 (US$177) per night. An onsite restaurant offers the best food on the south coast.
Boueni
Located on the beach in the west coast town of Boueni, Les Pieds dans l’Eau (Feet in the Water) is a loveless, soulless place which offers rundown, hostel style accommodation for €45 per room.
Some rooms have bathrooms, some have shared bathrooms. There’s a communal kitchen with cupboards which are devoid of any utensils or cooking equipment. A very uninspiring breakfast is served each morning in a plastic container which is left in the kitchen. The owners are largely absent and room service is non-existent. Not recommended!
Sada
In Sada, I stayed in the brand new Maison Fleurie which I booked on Airbnb. It was the 2nd best accommodation I found on Mayotte. The owners of this private residence have built several self-contained, very comfortable, apartments on the 2nd floor of their large home.
The property is located on an unmarked country lane which is not on Google Maps. I organised for the owners to meet me at the nearby Nasso na Bisso restaurant (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more on this excellent restaurant) who then escorted me to their home.
Highly recommended!
The living room of my Airbnb apartment at Maison Fleurie in Sada.
Petite Terre
Dzaoudzi
Overlooking the barge dock in Dzaoudzi, Le Rocheris the only hotel on Petite Terre, offering 22 old and dated rooms from €109 – 199. The hotel is normally 100% booked by French businessmen and French Civil Servants, so best to reserve well in advance.
Labattoir
My Airbnb room in Labattoir.
Since Le Rocher was never available, I stayed at an Airbnb in the nearby town of Labattoir. Like other Airbnb properties on Mayotte, the owners met me at the airport to escort me to their property since the neighbourhood was makeshift (largely a slum) and none of the streets were on Google Maps.
Located on a hill, overlooking the sea, the stylish, modern, neat and tide, tastefully designed, 2-storey house felt like anything in France, but outside the high security walls, litter was strewn everywhere and the neighbours lived in makeshift shacks constructed from corrugated iron sheets.
Eating Out
My favourite restaurant in Mamoudzou, the charming Auberge du Rond-Point offers wonderful meals.
Like the accommodation scene, restaurants are in short supply on Mayotte. While there are several restaurants in Mamoudzou and on Petite Terre, elsewhere options are very limited.
Grande Terre
Mamoudzou
The Auberge du Rond-Point.
My favourite restaurant in Mamoudzou is the charming Auberge du Rond-Point which is located across the road from the Town Hall. Offering alfresco dining with magnificent views over the harbour, the best deal here is the ‘lunchtime express‘ menu. For €20 you get a main course, dessert and coffee – a bargain for Mayotte.
The lunch menu at Auberge du Rond-Point is good value at €20.
The restaurant at the Hôtel Caribou is a local institution and always busy. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the restaurant provides reasonable food at less-than-reasonable prices. With a fresh fruit juice costing €7, main courses costing €25-30, the restaurant takes advantage of the fact that there are very few dining options for visitors in Mayotte.
Food stalls at Mamoudzou central market offer affordable local food.
A much better value meal, in less salubrious surroundings, can be found at the Mamoudzou Central Market which is home to several outdoor food stalls which offer cheap, local BBQ meals.
One of the best restaurants in the country is the very small but excellent Nasso na Bisso (open: 12–3 pm & 7–10 pm every day except Sunday) which is located in a quiet side street in the west coast town of Sada. Open for lunch and dinner, the restaurant is famous for its hamburgers, which are amazing.
Petite Terre
An amazing dinner at Le Faré – veal in a creamy mustard sauce with fresh pasta.
The best restaurant on Mayotte is, without a doubt, the incredible and impeccable Le Faré (open: 11 am – 1 am every day except Monday and Tuesday).
The friendly French crew who own and run this fine dining restaurant offer amazing French cuisine, cocktails, craft beers and wine, all served in a beautifully designed environment.
In the evening, a towering baobab tree in the garden is lit with fairy lights with dining tables arranged under the huge limbs. Appetisers average €16, main courses €22-26 and amazing desserts €12-15. This is one place not to be missed!
Visa Requirements
Mayotte passport stamps.
Mayotte is a French overseas territory, but it is not part of the Schengen Zone and, as such, applies its own visa policy. While French and European passport holders can reside for an unlimited period, many other nationalities can remain for 3 to 6 months.
Getting There
The modern terminal at Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.
Air
On approach to Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.
All flights into Mayotte arrive at Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport (IATA: DZA) which is located on the smaller island of Petite-Terre, a short barge ride east of the main island of Grande-Terre.
The airport serves as the base for Ewa Air, the small, local airline which provides (expensive) connections to the neighbouring countries of Comoros, Madagascar, Mozambique and Tanzania.
Ewa Air and Air Austral at Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.
The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from Mayotte:
AB Aviation – flies to/from Anjouan, Moheli, Moroni
Air Austral – flies to/from Paris–Charles de Gaulle, Saint-Denis de la Réunion
Air Madagascar – flies to/from Antananarivo, Antsiranana, Majunga
Ewa Air – flies to/from Anjouan, Antsiranana, Dar es Salaam, Majunga, Moroni, Nosy Be, Pemba (MZ)
Shared mini-vans and taxis connect the airport with the barge at Dzaoudzi wharf for a few Euro’s.
Sea
I was very fortunate to see one of just three cruise ships which call at Mayotte each year – the MV Silversea Whisper.
A grand total of three cruise ships call at Mayotte each year, you can check the schedule here. My stay coincided with the arrival, on the 7th of April, of the MV Silversea Whisper.
Getting Around
Public Transport
There are no public buses on Mayotte! As you drive around the island, you’ll have the opportunity to pick up many appreciative locals as everyone hitch-hikes.
Taxi
Shared taxis are available on Petite Terre and Grande Terre with fares within Mamoudzou costing €1.10. Beyond Mamoudzou, fares to neighbouring villages cost €1.30.
Ferry
Financed by the European Union, the Karihani Barge docked at Mamoudzou.
Inter-island barges connect the two islands of Petite Terre and Grande Terre, carrying passengers and vehicles. With a crossing time of 20 minutes, barges depart on the half hour and operate seven days a week as per the following schedule:
Monday to Thursday
Every half hour from 05h30 to 20h00
Every hour from 20h00 to 00h00
Friday
Every half hour from 05h30 to 20h00
Every hour from 20h00 to 03h00
Saturday
Every 1/2 hour of 06h00 à 20h00
Every hour from 20h00 to 03h00
Sunday and public holidays
Every half hour from 7h00 to 20h00
Every hour from 20h00 to 00h00
On board the Karihani barge.
Fares are charged only when departing from Mamoudzou, with the passenger fare costing € 0.75, while a car costs €15.
Rental Car
My rental car on the inter-island ferry.
The best way to maximise your time on Mayotte is to rent a car from one of the agents at the airport. The supply of cars on Mayotte is limited so it’s best to book well in advance. Once you have your car, your first drive will be to the inter-islandferry which connects Petite Terre to Grande Terre.
The license plate of my rental car bearing the Mayotte department number of 976.
The following agents (who speak partial English) have branches at the airport and also in downtown Mamoudzou:
Dates Visited: February 2019 / October 2019 / November 2021
Introduction
Bahrain is unlike any other country in the Gulf region. A bastion of liberal hedonism, home to an annual Formula 1 Grand Prix and a thriving art and foodie scene, Bahrain is full of surprises and perfect for a short stopover.
The Kingdom has a rich and complex history and was the centre of the Dilmuncivilisation, one of the World’s greatest which at one stage controlled all trade routes through the Gulf. Reminders of this glorious empire can still be seen today.
Bahrain Bay’s iconic United Tower, home to the Wyndham Hotel.
I spent a week in the Kingdom which allowed me to explore the many hidden treasures of the capital, Manama, and the surrounding countryside.
The National Theatre of Bahrain, whose architectural design was inspired by the tales of 1,001 Arabian Nights has a seating capacity of 1,001.
Unlike its neighbours, Bahrain has not embarked on a spree of monument building. The country is very low-key and will appeal to travellers who seek an unpretentious, yet confident, modern country.
Liberal Bahrain
Interior of the Al Fatih mosque, Bahrain.
Bahrain’s historic role as a regional trading centre has meant that, over the centuries, this small island nation has not only been exposed to outside influences but its people have developed an outward looking nature.
This characteristic was further strengthened by education reforms started at the beginning of the 20th Century which spurred the development of the Kingdom’s middle class and thus gave the country a very different class structure to its neighbours.
As a result, and despite it being an Islamic nation, Bahrain today is the most liberal country in the Gulf. While its neighbours have placed strict bans on alcohol, beer flows freely in Bahrain and, like thirsty camels who have stumbled upon a dessert oasis, Arab tourists (mostly from Saudi Arabia) flock to Bahrain for a weekend of boozing (and more) in one of the many hotel bars. Wednesday is the eve of the Saudi weekend when thousands of Saudi Arabians cross the causeway to Bahrain to escape strict laws at home.
Sunset over Bahrain Bay.
With a deluge of free-spending Arab tourists pouring into town to party, you can be sure alcohol is not the only vice on the menu. Prostitution in Bahrain is illegal, but a blind eye is turned, and the country has gained a reputation in the Middle East as a major destination for sex tourism. While not on public display, all girls work inside bars, hidden away inside the various hotels with certain bars ‘specialising’ in different nationalities – Russian, Thai, Filipino, Chinese and Ethiopian.
This liberal tolerance is not easily accepted by all and has become very divisive with Bahrain’s majority Shia population opposing alcohol and prostitution on religious grounds. Bills banning such activities have been passed by Shia parliament members in the lower house, but these are then overturned by the more liberal Sunni–ruled upper house.
Location
Manama, Bahrain
The Kingdom of Bahrain is the third smallest country in Asia, after the Maldives and Singapore. An island nation (featured in my World Islands quiz), Bahrain is located in the Arabian Gulf to the north of Qatar and east of Saudi Arabia, which it is connected to by the 25-kilometre (16 mile) King Fahd Causeway.
Once a stronghold of the powerful Dilmun empire, Bahrain Fort, and the adjacent museum, is a sightseeing highlight.
Due to its strategic location, Bahrain has always served as an important trading centre, with a history which dates back at least to the fourth millennium BC. Bahrain was home to Dilmun, an important Bronze Age trade centre linking Mesopotamia and the Indus Valley.
One of the sightseeing highlights is the beautifully restored Bahrain fort which was constructed near the entrance of Manama harbour to protect vital trading activities.
People
Artwork at the Bahrain National Museum depicting the woman of Bahrain.
In 2019, Bahrain’s population was 1,632,616 which is comprised of approximately 46% Bahrainis and 54% (non-national) ‘guest workers’. The largest expatriate community in Bahrain is Indians, numbering about 290,000.
The Indian ex-pats run many businesses in Bahrain, including numerous, reasonably priced tailoring shops inside Manana Souk.
Currency
The Bahraini Dinar is issued by the Central Bank of Bahrain.
The currency of Bahrain is the Bahraini Dinar (BHD). The dinar is further divided into 1,000 fils. It is the official currency of Bahrain and is commonly represented by the symbol “BD”.
The Bahrain dinar is one of the strongest currencies in the world with one dinar worth approximately US$3.
Bank notes are issued by the Central Bank of Bahrain in denominations of BD 1⁄2, 1, 5 ,10 and 20.
One Bahraini dinar is valued at US$2.65, making it one of the world’s strongest currencies, along with the Kuwaitidinar.
Uncirculated, Bahrain half-dinar banknotes.
The Bahrain dinar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of:
0.376 BD = USD $1.
or
1 BD = $2.65
Uncirculated, Bahrain one-dinar banknotes.
Saudi Riyals in Bahrain
The Saudi Riyal is worth 1/10th of the Bahrain Dinar.
One Bahrain Dinar is worth approximately 10Saudi Arabian Riyals. This rate was made official in 2001 and, due to the high number of Saudi visitors to the country, Saudi Riyals are accepted in Bahrain at any point of sale.
The Saudi Riyal freely circulates in Bahrain and often you’ll receive them as part of your change.
Since the Saudi Riyal is worth one tenth of the Bahraini Dinar, you should always carefully check any change handed to you. In the dark of night, the notes can look very similar and there’s nothing worse than later realising someone has handed you 5 Saudi Riyals instead of 5 Bahraini Dinars!
Costs
Due to the strength of the currency, costs at first glance seem reasonable but, once converted, can be surprisingly expensive (e.g. something that costs BD10 is actually US$26.50).
The best way to maximise your time on this small island nation is with a rental car, and with daily rates as low as BD10 for a compact car, hiring your own wheels can be far more economical than taking taxis. A number of car rental agencies, who are very keen to undercut each other on price, line Shabab Ave which is next to the huge American Naval base.
Hotel rooms can be surprisingly cheap due to the fact that so many new hotels have been built in recent years. Supply currently outstrips demand and, apart from the Saudi weekend period, many hotels have low occupancy rates. I stayed at the brand-new, deluxe Arch hotel for less than US$60 per night (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below).
Room in a mid-range hotel (Arch Hotel): BD22 (US$60)
Room in a top-end hotel: BD120+ (US$318+)
Flag
The flag of Bahrain, which is very similar in design to the flag of neighbouring Qatar.
The national flag of Bahrain features a white band on the ‘hoist’ side and a larger red band on the ‘fly’ right, with a serrated line of five triangles separating the two fields.
The Bahrain flag is very similar in design to the flag of neighbouring Qatar. On both flags, the white field symbolises peace. However, the maroon field on the Qatar flag symbolises blood shed during the several wars Qatar had fought, while the red field on the Bahrain flag symbolises the beliefs of kharidschitsche– an ancient Islamic sect.
The flag of Qatar.
The five serrations on the Bahrain flag represent the five pillars of Islam, while the nine serrations on the Qatar flag indicates that Qatar is the 9th member of the “reconciled Emirates” of the Persian Gulf. Further differentiating the two flags is the size. The Bahrain flag is more squarer, while the Qatar flag is an elongated rectangle.
While they are neighbours, relations between Bahrain and Qatar have been strained in recent years. As a result, you will rarely see the flag of Qatar flown in Bahrain. While the flags of the other gulf states flutter proudly outside of many buildings in Manama, the flag of Qatar is conspicuously absent.
Sights
Marking the entrance to Manama souk, Bab Al Bahrain lies at the heart of Manama, the capital of Bahrain.
There are enough sights in Bahrain to keep an inquisitive visitor busy for about a week.
Bahrain Island
Bahrain National Museum
The entrance to the Bahrain National Museum.
The Bahrain National Museum is the country’s most popular attraction, with slick displays accompanied by signage in English and Arabic. Located on the waterfront east of downtown Manama, the museum provides an excellent insight into the Dilmun civilisation and includes a cross-section of a reconstructed burial mound.
My favourite display at the museum is the enormous, 1200-square metre, aerial view of the Kingdom which covers the entire ground floor.
Covering 1200 square metres, this huge satellite photo of Bahrain covers the entire lobby floor of the Bahrain National Museum.
The museum complex includes four halls: one devoted to archaeology and the ancient civilisation of Dilmun, while two halls depict the culture and lifestyle of Bahrain’s recent pre-industrial past, and the fourth is devoted to natural history, fauna and flora.
A rich collection of Bahrain’s ancient archaeological artefact’s is on display at the Bahrain National Museum.
Once you’ve learnt all there is to know about Bahrain’s history and culture, the excellent Darseen Cafe is the perfect venue for a little respite (refer to the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more details).
One of the displays at the Bahrain National Museum is this shiny 1932 Buick which was owned by Sheikh Isa Bin Salman Al-Khalifa.
The cafe is located behind the sparkling Buick which once belonged to Sheikh Isa Bin Salman Al-Khalifa, the first Emir of Bahrain. This perfectly kept classic car was gifted by the US government to the late Emir, himself a keen collector.
Bahrain National Theatre
The very contemporary Bahrain National Theatre is one of the largest theatres, and the 3rd largest opera house, in the Arab world.
Sitting alongside the National Museum, the National Theatre of Bahrain was designed by the French firm, Architecture-Studio, and was inaugurated in 2012 with a performance by the Spanish opera star Plácido Domingo.
Built on an area of about 12,000 m2 overlooking the sea, the design of the theatre is inspired by 1001 Arabian Nights. The seating capacity of the main auditorium is exactly 1,001-seats! The roof of the theatre is covered with gold-coloured, stainless steel, panels. The French architects wanted the roof to create a “shimmering gold jewel” effect, which is best observed at sunset.
An art exhibition at the National Theatre of Bahrain.
The theatre also serves as an urban and cultural centre, with the lobby hosting art exhibitions (free entrance) which feature Bahraini artists.
Art exhibition at the Bahrain National Theatre.
Beit Al Quran
The beautiful stained-glass dome at the Beit Al Quran Museum mosque.
One fascinating sight which shouldn’t be missed is the Beit Al QuranMuseum which is located in the Diplomatic Area of Manama. Beit Al Quran, which translates as ‘House of Quran’, consists of ten galleries, spread over two floors, which exhibit rare Qur’anic manuscripts from different periods, starting from the first century Hijra (700 AD). Included in the museum complex is a mosque which is fitted with the most dazzling stained-glass dome.
One of the many antique, hand-written, Quran’s on display at the Beit Al Quran museum.
The museum features some of the first Quran’s written and the first Quran translated into Latin in 955 AD. Some of the more amazing exhibits are microscopic, hand-written Quran’s which can only be viewed with the aid of a magnifying glass. Some of the more bizarre exhibits include grains of rice and tiny sesame seeds which have Surah’s engraved into them.
Bab Al-Bahrain
Bab Al Bahrain lies at the heart of Manama old town.
Bab Al Bahrain translates as the ‘Gateway to Bahrain‘, a fitting name for a handsome twin-arched gate that stands at the entrance to the capital. It’s true to say that in Bahrain, all roads lead to Bab Al Bahrain, a place where you’ll taxis, buses, Tourist information, a Postal Museum and the sprawling Manana Souk.
The gateway was built in the 1940s by Sir Charles Belgrave, British adviser to the Emir, to house government offices. It fronts Government Road and was originally located on the waterfront; however, land reclamation has since pushed the shoreline several kilometres north.
Cultural displays at the Bab Al Bahrain Information Centre.
The Bab Al Bahrain Information Centre is the main tourist information office for Manama. Operated by the Bahrain Authority for Culture and Antiquities the centre is light on content but offers interesting cultural displays.
Postal Museum
The Postal Museum at Bab Al Bahrain.
Located at Bab Al Bahrain, the Bahrain Postal Museum displays stamps from Bahrain as well as stamps from around the world. The museum was established by Bahrain Post and features historical items related to postal services.
A display at the Postal Museum features the first stamp issued by Bahrain in 1953.
A complete collection of Bahraini stamps forms a large part of the display and include the first stamp issued in the name of Bahrain, which was released in 1953 and featured a portrait of the late Emir, His Highness Sheikh Salman bin Hamad Al Khalifa. Prior to 1953, stamps of British India, which were overprinted with ‘BAHRAIN’ were used for postage.
Manama Souk
Colourful lanterns on sale at Manama Souk.
The atmospheric Manama Souq is a warren of narrow streets and alleyways sprawling southwards from Bab Al Bahrain. Whether you’re looking to buy a souvenir of Bahrain, electronics, spices or colourful lanterns, you’ll find plenty of shops selling wares from around the region and beyond.
Golden lanterns at Manana souk.
The souk is also home to many tailor shops which offer custom-made shirts and suits at reasonable prices. Each time I visit Bahrain, I have new shirts made for me by the competent team at Washington Tailors (email: washingtontailortex@gmail.com) who can be found inside the main entrance of the Souk at 429 Manama Road.
The friendly team of Indian tailors from ‘Washington Tailors’ in Manama Souk.
When it’s time to take a break from the shopping, the excellent Bab Al Bahrain Mall offers some of the best cafes in town (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more details).
The entrance to Manama souk.
Al Fatih Mosque
Able to accommodate over 7,000 worshippers at a time, the beautifully designed Al-Fatih mosque is the largest mosque in Bahrain.
The Al Fatih mosque is Bahrain’s grand mosque, built in honour of the founder of modern Bahrain, Sheikh Ahmed Bin Muhammad Bin Khalifa, who was known as ‘Al Fatih’ (the conqueror).
The Al Fatih mosque is the principal mosque in Bahrain.
Located in the Juffair neighbourhood, the mosque was built at a cost of US$20 million and is one of the largest mosques in the world, having the capacity to accommodate over 7,000 worshippers at a time.
The interior of the Al Fatih Mosque, the largest place of worship in Bahrain.
In a region where mosques are often closed to visitors, the Al Fatih mosque is very welcoming, offering free, informative tours throughout the day by multi-lingual guides. The mosque is one of the premier tourist attractions in Bahrain and is open to visitors from 9 am to 4 pm daily, except on Friday.
The austere exterior of the Al Fatih mosque belies the ornate interior.
Bahrain Fort & Museum
A view of Bahrain fort at dusk.
Built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, Bahrain Fort (also known as Qal’at al-Bahrain) sits atop a 12 m (39 ft) deep tell (an artificial mound created by centuries of urban rebuilding) from which antiquities dating back as far as 2300 BC have been recovered. The archaeological findings, which are unearthed in the fort, reveal much about the history of Bahrain. The area is thought to have been occupied for about 5000 years and contains a valuable insight into the Copper and Bronze Ages of Bahrain.
The area occupied by Bahrain fort has been occupied by various occupants from 2300 BC.
One of the highlights of Bahrain, the fort is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and is believed to have been the capital of the ancient Dilmun Empire.
Displays at the Bahrain Fort Museum are arranged in chronological order, covering 5 different periods of history.
This is where the most important Dilmun finds have been made in Bahrain, with many of those treasures now housed in the adjacent Qala’at Al-Bahrain (Bahrain Fort) Site Museum. The museum’s collection showcases five different historical periods which are arranged chronologically, each within its own separate gallery.
Across the courtyard from the museum, the GB Cafe offers excellent meals and drinks, either indoors or outside on the terrace overlooking the sea – an excellent place to watch the sunset.
World Trade Centre
The iconic the World Trade Tower.
Every city in the Gulf has its one iconic building and in Bahrain, it’s the 240 m, 50-floor, World Trade Towers (WTC). The tower uniquely integrates three large wind turbines into its design which, together with numerous energy reducing and recovery systems, make this one very sustainable building.
A’Ali Royal Burial Mounds
One of the seventeen royal mounds in the town of A’Ali, Bahrain.
The Dilmun civilisation flourished in Bahrain from the 3rd century BC and, during its zenith, controlled all Persian Gulf trading routes. Today, there are more than 100,000 Dilmun-era burial mounds scattered across Bahrain.
A mock burial mound can be seen at the Bahrain National Museum.
The most magnificent of these are the 17 royal mounds which can be found in the southern suburb of A’Ali, a modern, bustling town which was an important place in antiquity.
A view of Royal Mound 8, the one mound which has been excavated in the town of A’Ali.
The mounds were constructed almost 4000 years ago, with the most impressive being royal mound 8 which has been excavated to reveal five separate chambers.
An ancient burial ground – hundreds of Dilmun-era burial mounds line the highway south of Manama.
Formula 1 Bahrain
The entrance to Bahrain International Circuit, the venue for the annual Bahrain F1 Grand Prix.
Various eventsare held at the track throughput the year, providing visitors with an opportunity to gain access to the track.
Al Areen Wildlife Park & Reserve
Pink Flamingos at Al Areen Wildlife Park and Reserve.
The Al Areen Wildlife Park & Reserve is located next to the Bahrain International Circuit. Ideal if you have children, I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit what is a mostly uninspiring zoo. The park is home to a total of 80 species of birds and 45 species of mammals, including the majestic Arabian Oryx.
A popular attraction at Al Areen Park, the Greater flamingo is found in Africa, Asia and the Middle East.
Tree of Life
A lone green desert dweller, the Tree of Life.
Located 40 km south of Manama, on a hill in a barren area of the Arabian Desert, the Tree of Life has long been shrouded in mystery. How old was the tree? How did it survive in an arid environment which was otherwise devoid of trees?
This lone, green specimen stands 9.75 metres (32 feet) high and is a Prosopis Cineraria (a type of Acacia tree) which draws 65,000 visitors every year. Historically, the tree stood in an isolated location but today is surrounded by makeshift campgrounds and the oil and gas installations. A walkway marked by 19 carved silhouettes of other famous trees around the globe circumnavigates the Tree of Life.
Drill holes from dendrochronology sampling can be seen on the lower trunk of the Tree of Life.
As for the mysteries? Analysis of the root system has shown that the roots descend to a depth of 50 metres which could allow the tree to tap into the water table. As for its age, Dendrochronology sampling (removal of a core sample to allow the counting of tree rings) has shown the tree was planted around 1583.
Muharraq Island
For centuries, Muharraq Island was the capital, and centre of everything on Bahrain. As a result, this tiny island is full of interesting sights, including a World Heritage Site – The Pearling Trail.
Jamal Showaiter Halwa
Sweaty work in a hot country! Halwa production at the Jamal Showaiter factory in Muharraq.
Throughout the region, Bahrain is known for its sweet tasting, gooey, Halwa candy with visitors from neighbouring Gulf states buying up large quantities to carry home. Originating from Zanzibar, Halwa was introduced into the Middle East by Omani traders who use to sail between Zanzibar and Oman. From Oman, Halwa production spread to Iran and other countries throughout the region.
Hussain Mohammed Showaiter was a Bahraini merchant and pearl diver by profession. During his stay in Najaf, Iraq, he saw sweets made of caramelized sugar, oil and water which caught his attention. After learning the production process, he decided to setup a factory in Muharraq. Importantly, he tweaked the recipe by adding Bahraini ingredients like cardamom, Bahraini spices, nuts, rose water etc. This simple modification has set Bahrain Halwa apart from all others.
For 150 years, the Showaiter family have been perfecting their recipe and today produce a product which is sought after throughout the region. Most halwa stores in Bahrain bear the name of the Showaiter family, with all production taking place at the family factory in the heart of Muharraq Island.
Halwa production at the Jamal Showaiter factory in Muharraq.
If you would like to view the production process (highly recommended), you can arrange a factory tour, which will normally be scheduled for a Saturday morning. I was fortunate to have the factory supervisor, Mr. Mohd Al-Ghareeb, as my tour guide.
The production technique for Halwa involves cooking ingredients inside large copper vats which are heated by four gas burners which are placed under a raised platform.
The production technique, which has remained largely unchanged over time, involves heating ingredients inside large copper vats which are heated by gas burners which are placed under a raised platform.
The ingredients for Halwa are:
corn starch
sugar
cardamom powder
corn oil
rose water
nuts
With summer temperatures reaching 50 degrees in Bahrain, constantly stirring heated vats of Halwa is a punishing task.
All ingredients are heated together in the large vats, which bubble away furiously. The one production room contains four vats which were all being used at the time of my visit.
In order to achieve the correct consistency (like a molten hot, gooey jelly) the production team must constantly stir the molten halwa with wooden paddles. While they each sit under a fan, the heat inside the production room is stifling with four gas burners constantly heating the vats, which then produce steam and smoke. Not an ideal job in a country where summer temperatures can reach 50 degrees.
Once the desired consistency has been achieved, the gooey mix is ladled into containers where it sets. These containers are then distributed to the various Showaiter shops around Bahrain.
The two most popular Halwas are:
Saffron Halwa – an orange coloured Halwa which is loaded with cashew nuts.
King of Halwa – which is green in colour and loaded with almonds.
The beautifully designed shop at the Jamal Showaiter Halwa factory was created by the factory supervisor.
Once you have finished the tour, you can step into the colourful shop, where you can try the different varieties of Halwa. The interior, including all the artwork was created by Mr Mohd Al-Ghareeb himself.
Arad Fort
Once a key part of the fortifications of Bahrain, Fort Arad today lies across the road from a modern shopping mall.
Dating from the 15th-century, Arad Fort is located across the road from the sprawling Seef Mall Muharraq. Once a key part of the fortifications of Bahrain, the fort was built in the typical style of Islamic forts during the 15th century, which is a square design with cylindrical towers on each corner.
Surrounding the fort is a defensive moat which is now empty but previously was filled with water from wells that were drilled especially for filling the moat.
The interior is open until after sunset with an entrance ticket costing 1 BD. Tickets can be purchased from the guard in the unmarked white building in front of the fort.
Rahimi Dhow Ship Yard
A newly completed boat at the Rahimi Dhow Ship Yard on Muharraq Island.
Located on the south-eastern tip of Muharraq Island (across the water from Arad Fort), the Rahimi Dhow Ship Yard is the only place in Bahrain where you can see traditional wooden Dhow ships being constructed.
Giant Dhow boats under construction at the Dhow Builders Yard on Muharraq Island.
Boat builders at the yard construct giant wooden dhows using techniques which have remained unchanged for centuries. While the yard is enclosed by a high wall, visitors are free to enter and watch the craftsmen at work.
Bahrain Pearling Trail
Siyadi House was constructed for the pearl merchant Abdullah bin Isa Siyadi.
Bahrain’s 2nd UNESCO World Heritage site (after Bahrain Fort), the Pearling Path/ Trail is located on Muharraq island. The trail extends for 3.5 km, connecting 17 historic merchant houses which were built by those involved in the lucrative pearl industry.
A full description of all the properties, including photos and map locations can be viewed on the Pearling Path website.
Detail of the Siyadi Majlis, part of the Siyadi house property.
For millennia, the Gulf region was the centre of the Pearling industry, which reached its peak in the 19th-20th century. The money made was used to build opulent residences on Muharraq Island.
Detail from Fakhro house, the former residence of boat merchant, Yousef Abdurrahman Fakhro, one of the properties included on the Pearl Path.
In 2013, the Bahrain Authority for Culture and Antiquities set out to preserve the buildings and as of my last visit (November 2021), all properties are currently closed for renovation.
Despite this, you can still view the properties from the outside which is worthwhile. A highlight is Siyadi House, which was constructed by one of Bahrain’s leading pearl merchants, Abdullah bin Isa Siyadi.
Doorway in the historic old town of Muharraq.
The one property which is accessible is the modern Pearling Path Visitors and Interpretation Centre, which sits in the heart of Muharraq at the entrance of the Qayssareyah souk.
The archaeological component of the Pearling Path Visitors and Interpretation Centre.
The centre includes an archaeological component and an exhibition space which features displays on pearling. It’s impossible to miss the centre, which is covered by a soaring concrete slab roof.
Busaad Art Gallery
Works by artist Ebrahim Busaad, on display at the Busaad Art Gallery.
Tucked away in a quiet, shady corner of old Muharraq, Busaad Art Gallery is an independent art gallery owned by world-renown Bahraini artist Ebrahim Busaad.
One of the rooms at the Busaad Art Gallery.
The rooms of this small gallery (free entrance) feature works by the artist, whose clients include Bahrain royalty and the British Museum.
Accommodation
A view of the new tourist enclave of Juffair, which is being built upon land reclaimed from the sea.
While many hotels are located in the more established neighbourhood’s of Manana, much of the newer tourist infrastructure, such as hotels, restaurants, bars and cafes are located in the strangely eerie, soulless and dusty district of Juffair, a newly created urban quarter which has been established on land reclaimed from the sea.
The whole neighbourhood is a ‘work-in-progress’ and serves as a hub for visiting Saudi’s who flock to Bahrain to party and play each weekend.
My room at the Best Western Arch Hotel. Due to a glut of hotels, room prices in Bahrain are very affordable.
While in Manama, I stayed at the very new, and highly recommended, Arch Hotel which is part of the Best Western chain and is located among a forest of new towers in the Juffair neighbourhood. With standard rooms from US$60, the Arch features three different bars, one of which is a sports bar with typical American fare.
There’s no shortage of accommodation options in Bahrain with 200 properties currently listed on Booking.com and Hotels.com
A view of Juffair, a new part of Manama, built on reclaimed land.
While downtown Manama is home to many established hotels, the nearby Juffair neighbourhood is home to a slew of new high-rise hotels, restaurants and apartment blocks. Juffair is built on a massive land reclamation scheme which has extended Bahrain’s coastline by two kilometres to the east. While new high-rise towers are being built at a frenetic pace, there are still large tracts of vacant land which make Juffair a very dusty neighbourhood on windy days.
Eating Out
Restaurants
The Avenues Mall is home to many international restaurant chains.
Bahrain offers an excellent selection of restaurants, which specialise in local and international cuisine. The streets surrounding Manama Souk are home to a range of local ‘cheap eats’ where a kebab meal will cost you just a few dinars.
If you’re looking for something more international, TheAvenues Mall, which is located on Bahrain Bay, is home to a number of international chains such as New York’s Dean & Deluca, IHOP, Le Pain Quotidien, PF Chang’s, TGI Fridays, The Cheesecake Factory, Shake Shack and more.
Cafés
Merchant House Hotel
Café Gray
The opulent and charming interior of Café Gray is the perfect place to unwind with a fine coffee and cake.
Merchant House Hotel – a hidden gem, a short walk from Bab Al-Bahrain!
Located at 150 Government Road, on the ground floor of the über-stylish Merchant House boutique hotel, Café Gray offers excellent coffee and desserts in a calm, chilled, relaxed setting. It’s all seemingly a million miles from the hustle and bustle of Bab Al-Bahrain souk, which surrounds the property.
The Library
The hotel, which claims to be Bahrain’s first 5-star luxury boutique hotel, is also home to The Library which is located on the mezzanine overlooking the lobby. Like everything else at this fine establishment, every inch of space features impeccable design elements. A perfect place to relax and enjoy tea or coffee, The Library boasts a curated collection of over 1000 books.
Indigo Terrace
The very stylish ‘Indigo Terrace’ rooftop restaurant at the Merchant House hotel.
It’s worth taking the elevator to the rooftop of the Merchant House hotel, where the charming Indigo Terrace restaurant awaits. Featuring more beautiful design, and lots of flowering plants, Indigo is open during the day for meals and serves a mean cocktail.
Rising above the streets of the busy souk, Indigo Terrace is an oasis of calm and refinement. A little piece of heaven in the heart of Bahrain!
Café Lilou
The elegant, balconied, Cafe Lilou offers a slice of French flare in Bahrain.
The highly popular Cafe Lilou offer three branches in Manama, with the main branch located in the popular cafe/ dining neighbourhood known as Block 338.
The Parisian-inspired décor and fine international café fare are what has made it one of Bahrain’s most popular spots. The menu is filled with tempting, gourmet dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The coffee is always good and is the perfect accompaniment to one of the many amazing cakes and pastries (the Mille–feuille is divine)!
% Arabica @ The Avenues Mall
The ‘% Arabica Avenues’ cafe in The Avenues mall serves the strongest Arabica coffee in Manama.
If you prefer your coffee strong, the strongest caffeine kick (and the best coffee) in Bahrain is served by the expert barista’s at the % Arabica cafe which can be found inside The Avenues mall.
The finest coffee in Bahrain is served by the Japanese cafe chain – % Arabica, at their branch at the Avenues Mall.
A coffee chain with a difference, % Arabica is a Japanese cafe chain who are busy opening stylish outlets around the world. The slick, minimal, design reinforces the fact that this cafe is about one thing and one thing only – the finest of strong Arabica coffee.
Saffron by Jena
‘Saffron by Jena’ offers superb local cuisine at their Bab Al Bahrain Mall branch.
Bahrain has many fine cafes, with some of the finest located inside the popular Bab Al Bahrain Mall at Manama Souk. ‘Saffron by Jena‘ offers a contemporary twist on traditional Bahraini cuisine and are known for their delicious breakfast menu which is very popular with locals and visitors. If you cannot make it to the souk, they also have a branch on Muharraq island.
Naseef Café
Bahrain Flag cake. Source: Naseef Café.
Next door to Saffron is Naseef Café which is famous for its homemade mango ice-cream. Like neighbouring Saffron, Naseef offers traditional Bahraini food with a modern twist.
Zinjbari, stuffed with cheese, is a specialty of Naseef.
Apart from their famous ice-cream, the breakfast menu is very popular with locals and their coffee is very good.
One specialty item is Zinjbari, which is served oozing with soft cheese.
Naseef Café offers wonderful meals and good coffee.
A larger branch of Naseef can be found on the waterfront on Muharraq Island, across from the Novotel. This is the place to go if you wish to sample a traditional Bahraini breakfast, which includes:
Balaleet (vermicelli sweetened with sugar, cardamom, rose water and saffron, and served with an overlying egg)
Eggs
Tomatoes
Nikhee (chickpeas fried in a Bahraini-style sauce)
Falafel (fried fritters made from ground chickpeas)
Foul (fava beans)
Mashed potato
Mahyawa bread (salted anchovy spread, served on a crispy flatbread)
Bahraini bread
On weekends, both levels of this restaurant are packed with locals enjoying a traditional Bahrain breakfast which is delivered quickly. If you insist on ordering a Western-style breakfast you should be prepared for a long wait as the kitchen is fully focussed on preparing their signature breakfast item (which almost everyone orders).
Darseen Café
The Darseen Cafe at the Bahrain National Museum.
Need a break from absorbing 4,000 years of Bahrain’s rich history? Located inside the Bahrain National Museum, the Darseen café offers wonderful sea views, an eclectic, fusion menu, featuring international and local cuisine and some of the best coffee in town. It’s the perfect respite while expanding your mind.
Bars
Unlike anywhere else in the region, Bahrain has a very lively bar scene with many bars hidden away inside the myriad hotels. Most bars are frequented by Saudi (male) tourists who flood into Bahrain on the weekend to engage in the types of activities that are strictly forbidden at home.
Visa Requirements
Bahrain Passport Stamp.
Visa Free Access
Bahrain provides visa-free access to passport holders from the five member states of the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) – Kuwait, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates.
Online e-Visa
A copy of a Bahrain tourist e-Visa, which is issued instantly online, and costs BD 9.
To view the nationalities which are eligible for an online visa, you should consult the Visa Policy of Bahrain.
Note:
The Bahrain Government site is the only online website which is authorised to issue visas for Bahrain.
If you apply through a secondary website, your visa will not be valid for entry and you’ll likely pay much more than the official visa price of BD 9!
Visa Options
The following visa options are available via the e-Visa portal:
Online e-Visa (100% of payment to be made online/ visa emailed to you):
Two weeks single entry visit visa (BD 9 – paid online in two payments).
Three months multiple entry visit visa, valid for 1 month per stay.
One year multiple entry visit visa, valid for 90 days per stay.
Five years multiple entry visit visa, valid for 90 days per stay.
Visa on Arrival (BD 4 – application fee paid online / visa fee paid at the airport)
Two weeks single entry visit visa (4 BD paid online and 5 BD paid at the airport).
Three months multiple entry visit visa, valid for 1 month per stay.
Note:
Before you start the online application process, you should ensure you have the following documents ready for upload:
Copy of the photo page of your passport.
Copy of your (return) flight ticket to Bahrain.
Copy of your hotel reservation.
Visa Cost
A two-week single entry visit visa costs BD9, and is comprised to two payments:
4 BD, which is an application fee. This is paid online at the time of application submission.
5 BD is the visa fee. You can elect to pay this either online or at the airport, if you choose to collect your visa upon arrival. If paying online, you’ll instantly receive an email with a link to the payment page. Once paid, you will then receive a final email which will contain your visa which should be printed and presented to immigration upon arrival at Bahrain International airport.
Golden Residency Visa
If you really love Bahrain, you can apply for a Golden Residency Visa which allows you to live and work permanently in the Kingdom.
Getting There
Opened in January 2020, the US$1.1 billion Bahrain International Airport was designed to feel like the airport of the future.
Air
Video:
Final approach to Bahrain International Airport, taken from one of my Emirates flights into the Kingdom.
Bahrain International Airport
All flights into Bahrain arrive at the newly opened Bahrain International Airport (IATA: BAH), which is located on the island of Muharraq, 7 km (4.3 mi) northeast of Manama.
One of the very sleek and modern departure areas at Bahrain International Airport.
The airport serves as the hub for the national carrier Gulf Air who connect Bahrain with 50 destinations in 28 countries across Africa, Asia and Europe.
The waiting areas on the airside of Bahrain International Airport have been designed to be soothing and relaxing.
Opened in January of 2021, the new terminal of Bahrain International Airport is stunning in every respect with the design team focusing on minimising passenger stress and creating a world-class facility. This has been achieved!
Reducing passenger stress has been achieved through clever design, with either bright or soft colours being utilised in different areas, depending on perceived stress levels.
A large LED screen in the centre of Bahrain International Airport screens ‘Bahrain Moments’.
No detail has been overlooked, including the carpets, which were created by the studio of Christian Lacroix, and have been designed with soft, soothing colours to minimise stress.
Throughout the terminal, soft, relaxing music is played while at the centre, a large island of soothing calm has been created using the old control tower which displays a specially made film – Bahrain Moments.
Bahrain Moments
The centre piece of the new terminal is a huge screen, showcasing Bahraini moments accompanied by soothing music.
At the centre of the new terminal, what use to be the old control tower, has now been converted into a giant LCD screen which displays a slow-motion sequence of locally produced videos titled ‘Bahrain Moments‘.
Video:
Then ‘Bahrain Moments’ video which is featured at Bahrain International Airport.
Departure board at Bahrain International Airport.
Scheduled Services
The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from Bahrain:
Air Arabia – flies to/ from Sharjah
Air India – flies to/ from Delhi
Air India Express – flies to/ from Kannur, Kochi, Kozhikode, Mangalore
AtlasGlobal – flies to/ from Istanbul, Trabzon
British Airways – flies to/ from Dammam, London–Heathrow
Cathay Pacific – flies to/ from Dubai–International, Hong Kong
EgyptAir – flies to/ from Cairo
Emirates – flies to/ from Dubai–International
Etihad Airways – flies to/ from Abu Dhabi
Ethiopian Airlines – flies to/ from Addis Ababa
flydubai – flies to/ from Dubai–International
Gulf Air – flies to/ from Abu Dhabi, Addis Ababa, Alexandria–Borg El Arab, Amman–Queen Alia, Athens, Baghdad, Baku, Bengaluru, Bangkok–Suvarnabhumi, Beirut, Cairo, Casablanca, Chennai, Colombo, Dammam, Dhaka, Delhi, Dubai–International, Faisalabad, Frankfurt, Gassim, Hyderabad, Islamabad, Istanbul, Jeddah, Karachi, Khartoum, Kochi, Kozhikode, Kuwait, Lahore, Larnaca, London–Heathrow, Manila, Medina, Moscow–Domodedovo, Multan, Mumbai, Muscat, Najaf, Paris–Charles de Gaulle, Peshawar, Riyadh, Sharm El Sheikh, Sialkot, Tbilisi, Thiruvananthapuram
Seasonal: Malaga, Salalah
Iraqi Airways – flies to/ from Baghdad, Najaf
Jazeera Airways – flies to/ from Kuwait
KLM – flies to/ from Amsterdam, Kuwait
Kuwait Airways – flies to/ from Kuwait
Lufthansa – flies to/ from Frankfurt
Oman Air – flies to/ from Muscat
Pegasus Airlines – flies to/ from Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen
SalamAir – flies to/ from Muscat
Saudia – flies to/ from Jeddah, Riyadh
SriLankan Airlines – flies to/ from Colombo
Syrian Air – flies to/ from Damascus
Turkish Airlines – flies to/ from Istanbul
Airport Transport
Taxis connect the airport to downtown Manama for BD5-8 with an additional BD2 airport charge. Somewhat hidden way, the taxi waiting area (currently unsigned) is located on the ground floor of the car park which is adjacent to the new terminal. As you exit the terminal, the car park is on your right.
Bahrain Bus operates four routes (A1, A2, 10 and 11) between the airport and downtown Manama with tickets costing 300 fils.
Land
The only land border is with Saudi Arabia, across the King Fahd Causeway. Obtaining a tourist visa for Saudi Arabia is currently next to impossible but hopefully that will soon change (click hereto read more on the proposed new Saudi tourist eVisa). In the meantime, the crossing is used by Saudi tourists who stream into Bahrain each weekend to indulge in activities which are strictly forbidden at home.
Sea
Cruise ships call at Bahrain’s Mina Sulman port on a regular basis between October and April of each year. Click hereto view the current schedule.
Getting Around
Public Transport
Bahrain Bus Network map. Source: Bahrain Transport.
Bahrain Bus operates buses on 26 different routes which cover the entirety of the greater Manama metropolitan area and beyond. Tickets cost 300 fils with reduced fares for those using the GO CARD.
Taxi
Taxis on the stand at Bab al Bahrain.
Taxis can be easily hailed on the streets in Bahrain and are a comfortable way to get around the city with official taxis easily recognised by their white bodies and orange roofs. Unlike neighbouring Gulf states, most drivers in Bahrain are native Bahrainis and not guest workers.
All taxis are metered and are an easy and cheap way to get around town with a flag fall of BD1.5 and BD0.25 per kilometre thereafter.
Rental Car
The wonderful Layla at Tooranco Rent-a-Car, which offer a large fleet of good cars at very reasonable prices.
The distance from the northern tip to the southern tip of Bahrain is just 50 km, via a well-paved highway with a total driving time of 50 minutes.
This is not a big island and with a rental car you can fully explore every nook and cranny in a couple of days. While distances are short and highways are excellent, public transport outside of the greater-Manama urban area is almost non-existent, making a rental car essential if you wish to fully explore the island.
While there are several car rental agents at the International Airport, the best deals are to be found from the numerous agents which line the busy Shabab Avenue, which is located alongside the US Naval base (NSA Bahrain). Naturally, the main clientele for these agents is US Military personnel who rent cars on a monthly basis at deep discounts.
With an average taxi fare in Manama costing BD5, a compact car costing BD8 per day and a litre of fuel costing BD0.18 (US$0.48), the decision to rent a car is a no-brainer!
While most customers are US military enquiring about long-term rentals, rates for a short-term rental are as low as 8 BD (USD$21) per day.
Driving in Bahrain isn’t for the fainthearted! The local driving style is very aggressive and obnoxious with drivers ignoring most road rules. In just one day, I saw two, three-car pile-ups. The most obnoxious drivers are the many Saudi motorists who drive like there’s no tomorrow.
Test your knowledge with this world islands quiz from taste2travel.
How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?
Good luck!
01. This is the flag of which island nation?
Correct!Wrong!
02. Which British Crown Dependency is the most southerly?
Correct!Wrong!
03. If you were shopping in Manana Souk, which currency would you be using?
Correct!Wrong!
04. Which island nation would you be visiting if you had just arrived at Faleolo International Airport.
Correct!Wrong!
05. The long-extinct Dodo bird was endemic to which island nation?
Correct!Wrong!
06. This is the flag of which island nation?
Correct!Wrong!
07. The Faroe Islands are a territory of which country?
Correct!Wrong!
08. Oranjestad is the capital of which island?
Correct!Wrong!
09. Nassau is the capital of which island nation?
Correct!Wrong!
10. Picturesque St. Georges served as the former capital of which island?
Correct!Wrong!
11. The capital of Iceland is?
Correct!Wrong!
12. This is the flag of which British Crown Dependency?
Correct!Wrong!
13. If you were visiting the island nation of Kiribati, which currency would you be spending?
Correct!Wrong!
14. Which language is spoken on the Åland islands, an autonomous region of Finland.
Correct!Wrong!
15. The Blue Hole of Voh is a naturally occurring phenomenon found on which French territory?
Correct!Wrong!
16. If you were viewing the 'Piton de la Fournaise' volcano, which French territory would you be visiting?
Correct!Wrong!
17. Which is the capital of the French territory of Mayotte?
Correct!Wrong!
18. This is the flag of which island nation?
Correct!Wrong!
19. In terms of elevation, which is the world’s lowest country?
Correct!Wrong!
20. If you were hiking on the island of Tutuila, which American territory would you be visiting?
Correct!Wrong!
Travel Quiz 12: World Islands
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Travel Quizzes on taste2travel
Welcome to taste2travel!
My name is Darren McLean, I’m the owner of taste2travel and I love travel trivia and I certainly enjoy creating travel quizzes.
There are a total of 80 different travel quizzes on taste2travel, with each quiz containing 20 questions.
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Oil-rich Kuwait has dusted itself off following the invasion and subsequent occupation by Iraqi forces in August of 1990 and today exudes a quiet confident.
Unlike its brasher Gulf neighbours, Kuwait is far less commercialised. While it has ample funds, it has not invested them in a swag of big, showy mega-projects and has not fully opened its doors to tourism, which accounts for just 1.5% of GDP.
A new Norman-Forster designed airport terminal and various new, architecturally experimental, skyscrapers hint of the future direction of the country.
At 414 m, the impressive Al Hamra tower is the tallest building in Kuwait and the tallest carved concrete skyscraper in the world.
Once impossible to visit, unless you were an oil executive, Kuwait has now eased visa requirements considerably, to encourage more visitors into the country with many able to obtain a visa on arrival (see the ‘Visa Requirement’ section below for details on the process).
Kuwaitis are very patriotic, with their flag featured on all sorts of merchandise.
Kuwait is an interesting destination, offering enough sights and shopping/ dining opportunities to keep the average visitor occupied for 5-6 days.
The iconic water towers are a prime attraction of Kuwait.
To encourage more tourism, the country is currently investing some of its riches in tourism-related projects, with the renovation of the KuwaitNational Museum nearing completion. Most of the sights, hotels and services are in Kuwait City, which is home to 98% of the population.
Woman’s Rights
The proud owner of a market stall who happens to makes one of the best carrot cakes in Kuwait.
One notable aspect of Kuwait, which sets it apart from its neighbours, is the involvement of woman in society. Women in Kuwait are among the most emancipated in the Middle East. In 2014 and 2015, Kuwait was ranked first among Arab countries in the Global Gender Gap Report. In 2018, 60% of Kuwaiti women participated in the labour force, outnumbering men, while 12.7% of the members of parliament are woman.
Additionally, Kuwaiti woman are not required to cover their hair and some don’t. Woman are free to be entrepreneurs and run their own businesses and as such, you experience much more interaction with Kuwaiti woman than you do with woman in neighbouring countries. A refreshing change in the Middle East!
Location
Kuwait City, Kuwait
Located in the north-west corner of the Arabian Gulf, Kuwait is one of the world’s smallest countries with a total area of 17,818 km².
Kuwait is bordered by Iraq to the north and west, Saudi Arabia to the South and the Arabian Gulf to the east.
The country is generally low lying and comprised of flat, sandy desert with the highest point being 306 m (1,004 ft).
A view of the Arabian Gulf and Kuwait City from Kuwait Towers.
Beneath the desert sands lie huge reserves of oil and gas created millions of years ago by the Arabian sea.
The Burgan Oilfield, in the southeast of the country, has the distinction of being the largest sandstone oil reserve in the world with a surface area of about 1000 km2 and an estimated oil reserve of 66 to 75 billion barrels, plus 70 trillion cubic feet of natural gas.
Currency
Known as the strongest currency in the world, one Kuwaiti Dinar is worth a little more than US$3.
The unit of currency in Kuwait is the Dinar (KD) which is sub-divided into 1000 Fils, with bank notes issued in denominations of KD 20, 10, 5, 1, 0.500 and 0.250.
Kuwaiti one dinar banknotes.
The dinar is pegged to an undisclosed weighted basket of international currencies and is the world’s highest-valued currency unit with a current exchange rate of 1 KD = US$3.29.
Such an exchange rate can give the illusion that prices are cheap when in fact they are not. For example, a large Big Mac combo meal at McDonald’s costs 1.95 KD which is US$6.41.
Kuwaiti one dinar banknotes.
The Kuwaiti dinar is issued by the Central Bank of Kuwait (CBK), whose headquarters are in the brand new, 238-m tall CBK Tower in downtown Kuwait City.
The new headquarters for the Central Bank of Kuwait opened in 2016.
Costs
Affordable, fresh, local seafood is available from the Central Fish Market.
You can keep travel costs down by shopping at locals markets, although most produce in Kuwait is imported. For a country that boasts the world’s highest valued currency, travel costs in Kuwait are surprisingly affordable, but if you wish to have a ‘deluxe’ experience, there are plenty of upscale options. It’s no surprise that one of the most affordable items in oil-rich Kuwait is fuel which costs US$0.33 per litre – cheaper than a bottle of water!
Typical daily travel budgets:
Budget: 45 KD (USD$148)
Mid-Range: 45-150 KD (USD$148 – US$500)
Top-End: 150+ KD (USD$500+)
Sample costs:
Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): 0.17 KD (US$0.56)
Water (0.33 litre bottle): 0.15 KD (US$0.49)
Cappuccino: 1.54 KD (US$5.06)
Bus Ticket within Kuwait: 0.25 KD (US$0.82)
Car hire (compact car per day): 9.00 KD (US$30)
Litre of fuel: 0.10 KD (US$0.33)
Meal (inexpensive restaurant): 2.00 KD (US$6.57)
Meal for 2 (expensive restaurant): 12 KD (US$40)
Big Mac Meal: 1.95 KD (US$6.41)
Room in a budget hotel: 10 KD (US$33)
Room in a mid-range hotel (Ibis Sharq Hotel): 26 KD (US$84)
Room in a top-end hotel: 85+ KD (US$280+)
Flag
The Kuwaiti flag is flown everywhere throughout the country, including at this friendly political rally in Kuwait city.
The flag of Kuwait is composed of three stripes in the traditional pan-Arab colours of green, white, and red with a black trapezoid featured on the hoist side.
The colours of the Kuwaiti flag are the Pan-Arab colours, with each colour having the following meaning:
Red – symbolises the blood on the swords of Arab warriors.
White – represents purity and noble deeds.
Green – represents the fertile land of Arabia.
Black – represents the defeat of enemies in battle.
The Kuwaiti flag on display at Sharq Mall.
In a country that was invaded and occupied in recent times, it’s not surprising that the flag is flown proudly and everywhere.
People
Guest workers constitute 70% of the population and can be found working everywhere, including at the local produce market.
Kuwait’s population is currently 4.6 million people, of which 1.4 million (30%) are Kuwaitis. The remaining 70% is comprised of ‘guest workers’ with 1.2 million being other Arabs and 1.8 million being from Asia (India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Nepal and the Philippines). Despite a government policy to reduce the number of foreign workers, Kuwaitis remain a minority in their own country.
Sights
Kuwait Towers
A great place to fly a kite – Kuwait Towers.
One of Kuwait’s most famous landmarks, the Kuwait Towers are situated on Arabian Gulf Street on a promontory to the east of the City centre.
The water towers are the most famous and iconic landmark in Kuwait City.
The towers were the sixth, and last, of a larger group of 34 water towers constructed throughout the country.
The view from the observation deck inside the tallest tower.
The tallest of the three towers, at 187 metres, carries two spheres.
The lower sphere holds in its bottom half a water tank of 4,500 cubic metres while in the upper half there is a restaurant. The uppermost sphere, which is at a height of 123 metres holds a revolving observation area and a restaurant. This is the only tower open to visitors, with tickets costing 3 KD (USD$10) per person.
Designed by Danish architect Malene Bjørn, the Kuwait Water Towers are the iconic symbol of Kuwait.
The second tower is 147 metres high and serves purely as a water tower, holding 1 million gallons of water while the third tower (which looks like a needle) houses equipment to illuminate the two larger towers.
The three spheres are covered by approximately 41,000 enameled steel discs.
Approximately 41,000 enameled steel discs cover the three spheres in eight shades of blue, green and grey, recalling the tiled domes of historic mosques.
Souk Al-Mubarakiya
The throbbing commercial and culinary heart of Kuwait, Souq Al-Mubarakiya is especially busy in the early evening.
Located in the heart of the old town, Souq Al-Mubarakiya is the largest, and most popular market in town.
A view of bustling Souq Al-Mubarakiya, the heart of Kuwait City.
Always abuzz with shoppers, you can spend hours in this market, strolling around and discovering bargains from every kind of shop imaginable.
A date shop inside Souq Al-Mubarakiya, Kuwait City.
Whether you’re shopping for gold jewellery, dates, nuts, a Persian carpet, traditional Arab perfumes, clothes or souvenirs, you’ll find it here.
Artwork at a café inside Souq Al-Mubarakiya, Kuwait City.
The market is especially popular at mealtimes with lots of restaurants selling amazingly fresh Arabic cuisine.
Central Fish Market
A fish monger with his produce at the Kuwait Central Fish market.
Located on the waterfront between the Dhow harbour and Sharq Mall, the Central Fish Market is the main fish market in Kuwait City. Unlike many other fish markets around the world, which tend to be messy and smelly, the Kuwait market is not an assault on your senses. Housed in a modern, brightly lit, airy building, the market is kept spotlessly clean by a team of cleaners who are forever hosing and mopping the floor.
Colourful, marine-themed, mosaics line the walls of the very clean Kuwait fish market.
The walls of the market are lined with tiled mosaics featuring colourful marine life which adds to the pleasantness. Directly outside the market is the Dhow harbour where you can view the fishing boats which are responsible for providing the market with its fresh produce.
Dhow Harbour
Traditional Dhow fishing boats line the Dhow harbour in downtown Kuwait.
Alongside the fish market is the dhow harbour which is home to a large fleet of traditional wooden ‘Dhow‘ boats which are used for fishing and trading purposes. Prior to the discovery of oil, Kuwait was a major trading port with Dhows playing an important part in maritime trade.
Kuwait National Museum
One of the galleries at the Kuwait National Museum.
Located near the Grand Mosque, the Kuwait National Museum (open: Monday to Saturday: 8.30 -12.30 am & 4.30 – 8.30 pm/ Friday: 4.30 – 8.30 pm) is currently undergoing a huge renovation which will transform it completely. The original museum was opened in 1957 in a former Royal palace.
Plundered and destroyed by the Iraqi regime during the gulf war, today – 90% of the collection has been returned and new buildings are nearing completion. The museum houses the Al-Sabah collection of Islamic art which is one of the most comprehensive collections in the world. Displays showcase aspects of Kuwaiti culture and everyday life both from the past and present.
Artwork in the Kuwait National Museum.
Al Sadu House
Colourful hand-woven pillow cases at the Al Sadu House gift shop.
Located on the waterfront, next to the National Museum, the beautifully restored Al Sadu house is home to the Al Sadu society. The patron of the society is Her Royal Highness and their aim, according to their website, is “preserving, documenting and promoting the rich and diverse textile heritage of the Kuwaiti Bedouin, from the nomadic weaving of the desert through to the urban weaving of the town.”
A museum (open: 8 am –1 pm / 4 – 8 pm) provides exhibits detailing the history of textile weaving in Kuwait and a gift shop sells products made by the members. There’s also an excellent café (open all day), Jumo Coffee Roasters, in the courtyard – which serves excellent coffee.
Al Seif Palace
Located on the waterfront, historic Al Seif Palace is one very large, vacant palace.
Located on the waterfront, opposite the Grand mosque, the beautiful Al Seif Palace was built in 1896 by Sheikh Mubarak. Heavily destroyed during the Iraqi invasion, but now fully restored, the palace serves as a residence for the royal family, but they prefer to live at another palace – the nearby, and much larger, Bayan Palace. Al Seif Palace is used only on special occasions, making it one very large, vacant property.
The dome of the Al Seif Palace clocktower is covered in real gold.
The palace is best known for its iconic watch tower which is covered in blue tiles and sports a dazzling roof plated in pure gold. During the occupation, the clock was destroyed by a direct missile hit. The UK clock specialists, Smith of Derby Group were awarded the contract to replace the clock after the war had ended, being the only non-US company to be awarded a contract during the reconstruction of the country.
Standing in front of the palace and taking photos is not allowed but you can get a decent photo from the opposite side of the roundabout in front of the palace.
Grand Mosque
The spacious Grand Mosque can accommodate up to 10,000 worshippers in the main pray hall.
Located opposite Al Seif Palace, the Grand Mosque was completed in 1986 and is an example of several traditional Islamic styles using modern technology. The mosque hardly encourages visitors, with fairly restrictive opening hours being from 9:00 – 10:30 am and 5:00 – 7:00 pm on weekdays only.
National Assembly Building
The National Assembly building was designed by Danish architect Jørn Utzon.
Located on the waterfront a short walk from the Grand Mosque, the Kuwait National Assembly Building was designed by Danish architect Jørn Utzon (famous for designing the Sydney Opera House) in 1972 and completed in 1982. Home to the Kuwaiti parliament, the building is not open to visitors.
Liberation Tower
Currently closed to visitors, Liberation tower dominates the skyline of Kuwait City.
At 372-metres, Liberation Tower is the second-tallest structure in the country and stands as a symbol of Kuwaiti liberation. The tower dominates the Kuwait City skyline and, from the top, the view must be amazing, but unfortunately, it is closed to visitors. Such a shame!
Construction of the tower commenced in 1990 but was interrupted by the Iraqi invasion. After the occupation ended, construction continued with the tower opening in 1996. It’s ranked as one of the tallest telecommunications structures in the world.
Shopping Malls
A quiet day at Souk Sharq, one of several shopping malls in Kuwait City.
What do Kuwaitis do to escape the blistering heat? Go shopping in an air-con mall of course! Kuwaiti’s love their malls and there are many impressive commercial centres in Kuwait city.
One such mall is Souq Sharq, which is located next to the Central Fish Market on the waterfront and offers a good variety of shops and one of the best cafes in town – Baker & Spice.
The largest mall in the country is The Avenues, and with over 1,000 stores and restaurants, there is plenty to keep you busy and away from the scorching sun.
Beneath the iconic Al Hamra tower, lies Al Hamra mall which specialises in high-end designer fashion but has a great affordable, supermarket, numerous cafes and restaurants plus a cinema.
Accommodation
The Ibis Sharq Hotel is dwarfed by Al Hamra tower.
Booking.com and Hotels.com currently list 169 and 116 properties, respectively, in Kuwait City. Top-end hotels cost around US$300 per night, while mid-range hotels cost around US$100 per night.
During my stay in Kuwait, I stayed at the (highly recommended) Ibis Sharq Hotel which is located next door to the soaring Al Hamra tower. The tower complex includes the upscale Al Hamra mall where there are many dining options and fine cafes, all a short stroll from the hotel. Rates on Hotels.com are currently US$84 for a standard room which represents good value for this property. The breakfast buffet provides a good range of options which will set you up for a day of exploration.
Important: When checking into hotels in Kuwait, you are required to show your visa form which was issued at the airport.
Eating Out
Artwork on the wall of one of the many teashops at Souk Al-Mubarakiya.
Like its neighbours, Qatar and Bahrain, the restaurant scene in Kuwait is made much more interesting thanks to the 70% of the population which are the army of (poorly paid) guest workers. While you can enjoy expensive fine dining in glitzy, expensive restaurants, you can also walk next door to find an Indian or Egyptian-owned budget restaurant where the food is also excellent and very affordable, with a meal costing just 2.00 KD (US$6.57). The myriad malls offer all of the usual western chain restaurants.
Restaurants
A perfect meal of spicy Kofte, creamy Humus and crispy flatbread, fresh from the Tandoor oven at Souk Al-Mubarakiya.
Sure there are many restaurants around town, but I kept gravitating back to those which line the alleyways of Souq Al-Mubarakiya. The food at the highly popular Souq is prepared fresh in front of you with local flatbread (leavened and cooked in a Tandoor oven like Indian Naan bread) served piping hot. I’m still dreaming of the wonderfully creamy humus, the grilled meats and the amazing flatbread! Prices are very reasonable – there’s no ‘bill shock’ here but rather a pleasant surprise when you learn how little your meal cost.
The Souk is very busy with both shoppers and diners. At one restaurant I watched two chefs prepare hundreds of Kofte shish kebabs at the front of the house – a great way to entice diners. I can attest, the Kofte tasted divine!
Two chefs preparing many Kofte shish kebabs at Souk Al-Mubarakiya.
Cafes
A divine café latte served at Jumo Coffee Roasters.
There’s no shortage of good cafes in Kuwait City where a qualified Barista will make you an excellent coffee. Two that stand out as exceptional are:
Jumo Coffee Roasters – located in the shady courtyard of the beautifully restored Al Sadu House craft centre, next to the National Museum, is this artisanal coffee roasting company. While the centre has restricted opening hours, the café is open throughout the day, serving freshly roasted coffee, with a café latte costing 1.85 KD. The café is staffed by a team of friendly Baristas from different parts of Africa, and offers a menu of sandwiches, cakes and different drinks,
Baker & Spice at Souq Sharq – if you need a caffeine fix while shopping at Souk Sharq, the excellent café/ restaurant at Baker & Spice is an excellent choice. Part of a small UK chain, this stylish emporium of fine food serves fresh salads, sandwiches, pastries, cakes and so much more.
Bars
Non-Alcoholic beers from famous brands such as Budweiser can be purchased in local supermarkets.
With a strict ban on alcohol, it’s not surprising that there is no bar scene in Kuwait. Locals looking to socialise frequent lounges (which are like bars without the alcohol) and cafes which serve coffee, tea, juices and Sheesha.
Visa Requirements
Kuwaiti passport stamp.
Kuwait provides visa-free access to passport holders from the five Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) countries – Bahrain, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates.
The visa policy map of Kuwait, with VOA countries highlighted in light green.
Nationalities from 54 countries are entitled to receive an electronic eVisa, or a Visa-on-Arrival (VOA), upon arrival at Kuwait International Airport.
To check your requirements, you should consult the Visa Policyof Kuwait.
eVisa Process
Applying in advance for an eVisa will save you much time and hassle at the airport.
The application process is very straightforward with an approval letter emailed to you within 24 hours of application submission.
A single entry visa, valid for a stay of up to 30 days in Kuwait, costsKWD 3 per applicant, along with an additional KWD 1 service fee.
The eVisa is valid for 90 days from the date of issuance.
Note: There are many bogus eVisa websites which charge hefty service fees for processing your application. It’s always best to only use the official government website.
The eVisa email notification, which must be presented upon arrival at Kuwait International Airport.
Upon arrival at Kuwait International Airport, you simply present the approval letter at the ‘Visa on Arrival‘ desk.
At terminal 1 (T1), the main terminal, the Counter forVisa Issuing is, strangely, located next to gate 21 inside the terminal – not in the immigration hall.
At the new T4 (Kuwait Airways flights), the visa issuing desk is, logically, located in the immigration hall.
Likewise, at T5 (Jazeera Airways flights), the visa issuing desk is located in the immigration hall.
Once you present your approval letter, the immigration officer scans the QR code, prints your visitor’s visa (which you must retain and surrender upon departure), issues you a receipt and then stamps your passport.
You are then free to exit the terminal, bypassing the queues at immigration.
Visa Upon Arrival Process
The following steps describe how to apply for a Visa upon Arrival at Kuwait International Airport:
If you’re one of the 54 nationalities which can apply for a Visa upon Arrival, you will first need to make your way to the ‘Counter for Visa Issuing‘ which is on the air side of Terminal 1, next to gate 21.
At T4 and T5, the visa desk is located in the immigration hall.
The ‘Visa on Arrival’ office, which is located next to gate 21, inside terminal 1.
Directly inside the entrance, there’s a desk where you complete the Request for Tourist Entry Visa form.
The Kuwait Visa application form.
Next, you need to pay the 3 KD (US$10) application fee. This is done by inserting 3 KD cash into a vending machine (which doesn’t give change). The machine will dispense a 3 KD fiscal stamp.
Note: The application fee must be paid in KD cash. If you need cash, there’s an ATM available alongside the vending machine which thoughtfully dispenses 1 KD notes.
Once you have purchased your fiscal stamp, you take a number and wait your turn to be called. When I arrived, I was the only one in the office so I was called immediately.
Once you reach the counter, you hand over your passport, your 3 KD worth of stamps, your completed immigration form and your queue number.
The immigration officer will then enter your details into the system and issue you with an A-4 size form which is your Entry visa.
You will then have your passport stamped and you are free to enter Kuwait. The process took me about 10 minutes.
Note: It’s important you retain the Entry Visa form for the duration of your visit. Your hotel will ask for it and you will need to surrender it when leaving the country.
The Kuwait entry visa, which must be retained and surrendered upon departure.
Getting There
Air
Terminal 1 at Kuwait International Airport.
All flights into Kuwait arrive at Kuwait International Airport (IATA: KWI), which is located 16 kilometres south of Kuwait City.
The airport serves as the base for Kuwait Airwaysand Jazeera Airwaysboth of which do not serve alcoholic beverages on their flights.
Inaugurated on the 8th of August 2018, Terminal 4 is used by all flights operated by Kuwait Airways.
KWI has three terminals in operation:
T1 (the main terminal, used by all non-Kuwaiti airlines)
T4 (used by Kuwait Airways)
T5 (used by Jazeera Airways)
All terminals will be consolidated into one giant-sized Terminal 2 (T2), once construction (now delayed) is completed.
Terminal 1 & 4
Duty-Free shops, inside Terminal 1 at KWI.
Terminal 1 serves as the main terminal while the newest is Terminal 4, which was opened on the 8th of August 2018 and is used exclusively by Kuwait Airways.
The two terminals are 2 km apart and currently there is no shuttle bus (on the ‘land-side’) between them.
If you do not have your own transport the only way to connect between the two is via airport taxi which will charge you 4 KD (US$13) for the 4-minute trip.
If you are connecting on the ‘air-side’, there is a shuttle bus which departs from gate B10 at Terminal 1.
The New Terminal 2
An artist rendering of the new, Norman Foster-designed, Terminal 2. Source: Kuwait Airports.
Not be be outdone by its neighbours, the government of Kuwait is busy building a new Norman Foster-designed terminal which will act as (another) hub for the region.
The terminal is currently under construction and is scheduled to begin operations in 2024.
To view a video of Norman Foster introducing his design concept – click here.
Scheduled Services
The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from Kuwait:
Air Arabia – flies to/ from Sharjah
Air Arabia Egypt – flies to/ from Alexandria, Assiut, Luxor, Sohag
Air Cairo– flies to/ from Alexandria, Assiut, Sohag
Air India – flies to/ from Ahmedabad, Chennai, Hyderabad, Goa
Air India Express – flies to/ from Kochi, Kozhikode, Kannur, Mangalore
Al Masria Universal Airlines – flies to/ from Cairo
Armenia Air Company – flies to/ from Yerevan
Atlas Global – flies to/ from Istanbul
Azerbaijan Airlines – flies to/ from Baku
Biman Bangladesh Airlines – flies to/ from Dhaka
British Airways – flies to/ from London–Heathrow
Cham Wings Airlines – flies to/ from Damascus, Latakia, Qamishli
EgyptAir – flies to/ from Alexandria, Cairo
EgyptAir Express – flies to/ from Sharm El Sheikh
Emirates – flies to/ from Dubai–International
Ethiopian Airlines – flies to/ from Addis Ababa
Etihad Airways – flies to/ from Abu Dhabi
flydubai – flies to/ from Dubai–International
FlyBosnia – flies to/ from Sarajevo
FlyEgypt – flies to/ from Alexandria, Assiut, Sohag
Flynas – flies to/ from Jeddah, Medina, Riyadh, Taif
Gulf Air – flies to/ from Bahrain
IndiGo – flies to/ from Ahmedabad, Chennai, Kochi, Kannur
Iran Air – flies to/ from Ahwaz, Isfahan, Lar, Mashhad, Shiraz, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
Iran Aseman Airlines – flies to/ from Abadan, Ahwaz
Pegasus Airlines – flies to/ from Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen
Qatar Airways – flies to/ from Doha
Royal Jordanian – flies to/ from Amman–Queen Alia
Salam Air – flies to/ from Muscat
Saudia – flies to/ from Jeddah, Medina, Riyadh
Syrian Air – flies to/ from Damascus, Latakia
SriLankanAirlines – flies to/ from Colombo
TurkishAirlines – flies to/ from Istanbul, Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen
Alcohol Ban
It is illegal to import alcohol into Kuwait.
Upon entering the country, your bags will be x-rayed by customs to ensure you are not carrying any alcohol.
Airport Transport
Special Airport taxis provide transfers into Kuwait City, charging a fixed fare of 8 KD (US$26). The journey time is 20 to 30 minutes.
When returning to the airport, it’s much cheaper to take a regular city taxi which will charge just 5 KD. Regular city taxis are not allow to collect passengers from the terminal with police officers on duty to ensure this rule is respected.
Public buses operate from outside the arrivals hall at Terminal 1 and charge .2 KD to the city. You can view details on the routes available on the airport website.
Land
Kuwait shares land borders with Iraq and Saudi Arabia. Currently, the border with Iraq is closed while there are two crossings into Saudi Arabia, one on the coast (Highway 40) and one in the far west (Highway 70).
Getting Around
A section of a street map from Google Maps clearly shows the very confusing street naming convention used in Kuwait City.
Kuwait has an extensive and modern network of highways, many of which are forever congested with traffic. The street naming (or numbering) system is truly baffling!
Public Buses
A Citybus bus route in Kuwait City. Source: http://www.citybuskw.com/
The Kuwait Public Transport Company (KPTC) operates a fleet of 400 buses which provide comprehensive coverage of Kuwait City. Tickets cost 250 fils for trips in the city. You can view their many different routes using the interactive route map on their website.
Citybus operate a fleet of modern buses throughout the city and to the airport with tickets starting at 200 fils. You can view their routes and fares on their slick website.
Taxi
Taxis are plentiful and cheap, costing a few Dinars between any two points downtown. Most taxis are equipped with meters but the drivers (all ‘Guest workers’ from South Asia) rarely use them so its always best to negotiate the fare prior to departure. Fares are always reasonable and the drivers very courteous. The fare from downtown to the airport is 5 KD.
Rental Car
If you’re only visiting Kuwait City, you don’t need a rental car as taxis and buses are plentiful and cheap. If you wish to explore beyond the city, its best to hire a rental car, although the local driving style could be best described as aggressive and chaotic, and all at high speed.
A compact car starts at around US$30 per day and fuel costs US$0.33 per litre. The following agencies are located outside the arrivals hall of Terminal 1
Qatar is a fascinating destination which offers the visitor the chance to see a world-class city, Doha, in the making.
As the capital and main city (home to 92% of the population), the pace of development in Doha is dizzying, especially in the lead-up to the 2022 World Cup where, US$200 billion has been allocated to build eight new stadiums, a brand-new (US$ 38 billion) metrosystem, numerous highways, a whole new city and other supporting infrastructure.
The 7-km long Doha Corniche is lined with flower beds, palm trees and planted grass.
One of the biggest construction projects, covering 38 km² and costing US$45 billion, is the brand new, fully planned city of Lusail, which is located 23 km north of downtown Doha.
One of the many impressive artworks at Doha International Airport – the 32 feet tall ‘Small Lie’ is the work of American artist KAWS.
Once completed, the city will accommodate 450,000 people. The currently-under-construction Lusail Stadium will be used for the opening and final games of the 2022 World Cup.
The courtyard of the IM Pei-designed ‘Museum of Islamic Art’.
The money being spent on the World Cup is part of the larger and more ambitious Qatar National Vision 2030 (QNV 2030), a development plan for the future which details ambitious goals for environmental, social, human and economic development in the coming decades.
A traditional Dhow in Doha harbour.
Despite the country’s rapid development, Qatar is proud of its traditions and history and takes great care to ensure these are not lost in its pursuit of modernisation.
The giant Pearl on the Corniche pays homage to the days of Pearl Farming.
Petroleum and natural gas are the cornerstones of Qatar’s economy, with the country holding the world’s 3rd largest proven gas reserves of 25.4 trillion cubic metres. It’s estimated that these reserves will not be exhausted for another 156 years!
The wealth generated from these resources has propelled Qatar to 1st place on the list of ‘Richest Countries’ with an annual GNI (Gross National Income) of US$128,000 per capita.
Buildings all over Doha, such as the Tomado Tower, feature the standard silhouetted image of the Emir of Qatar.
The world’s youngest sovereign, the 38 year-old Emir of Qatar, Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad Al Thani, is using his country’s wealth to develop Qatar in accordance with the vision laid out in QNV 2030.
Detail of the National Museum of Qatar.
Beyond the capital, the countryside and regional centres are also being transformed with huge infrastructure and construction projects. Eight-lane, fully lit, dual highways criss-cross the empty desert, linking Doha to regional centres.
One of the historic watchtowers at Al Khor.
The northern city of Al Khor will serve as one of the host venues for the World Cup with a new stadium and supporting infrastructure currently under construction.
Al Zubarah fort aglow in the afternoon sunlight.
One sight not to be missed is the stunning desert fortress of Al Zubarah, which is located on the north-west coast, a 90 minute drive north of Doha. The fort and nearby buried city is the only UNESCO World Heritage site in Qatar.
A sail on a dhow in Doha harbour shows the comradery shared between the Emirs of Kuwait and Qatar.
Location
Doha, Qatar
Located in the Arabian Gulf, Qatar is a small peninsular Arab country whose terrain comprises flat, arid desert and a long shoreline of shallow beaches. Almost all of the population live in Doha which is one of the most rapidly developing metropolis’ on the planet.
Currency
The wonderfully colourful and beautiful currency of Qatar, the Riyal.
The currency of Qatar is the Qatari Riyal (QR) which is pegged to the United States Dollar at a rate of $1 USD = 3.64 QR. The colourful bank notes, which feature beautiful Islamic-inspired artwork, come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 50, 100, 500 riyals.
Qatari 100 Riyal bank notes.
Flag
The flag of Qatar.
The flag of Qatar was adopted shortly before the country’s declaration of independence from Britain on 3 September 1971 and consists of a broad white serrated band with nine points and a wider band of ‘Qatar Maroon‘.
The maroon, which is Pantone 1955 C, has been defined and standardised by the government and is used throughout the country as a powerful ‘branding’ tool.
The Qatar flag displayed in the National Museum of Qatar.
Qatari’s are very proud of their flag, which is displayed everywhere, and of their ‘Qatar Maroon’, which adorns everything – including the Bentley logo on the car below.
All Qatari license plates, including on this beautiful Bentley, feature the national flag. Note the Bentley logo is also in ‘Qatar Maroon’.
The colour purple is significant in Qatari history with the country claiming to be the birthplace of purple dye production, which was originally obtained from shellfish.
The flag of Bahrain.
The flag has the distinction of being the only one in the world having a width more than twice its height and is similar to the flag of neighbouring Bahrain, which has fewer points, is red in colour and has a shorter width.
Costs
Installed in Souk Waqif, ‘Le Pouce’, by French artist César Baldaccini, is a giant bronze sculpture in the shape of a giant thumb.
Qatar is ranked as the richest country in the world. This wealth is enjoyed by the native Qatari’s who comprise just 12% of the population while the remaining 88% of guest workers survive on minimal salaries.
Due to this income inequality, travel costs in Qatar range from budget-friendly to wallet-busting. If you’re travelling on a shoestring budget, you’ll find plenty of cheap accommodation and dining options, provided you don’t mind sharing your dining table with guest workers (refer to the ‘Eating Out‘ session below for more details).
Great coffee served with hand-forged cutlery at the Desert Rose Cafe at the National Museum of Qatar, where a cafe latte costs 20 QR (US$5.50).
If you prefer a more deluxe travel experience, you’ll find plenty of top-end accommodation and fine dining options.
Typical daily travel budgets:
Budget: 500 QR (USD$137)
Mid-Range: 500-1,000 QR (USD$137 – US$275)
Top-End: 1,000 QR (USD$275 +)
Sample costs:
Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): 1.78 QR (US$0.50)
Water (0.33 litre bottle): 0.99 QR (US$0.27)
Cappuccino: 18 QR (US$5)
Bus Ticket within Doha: 3 QR (US$0.82)
Car hire (compact car per day): 100 QR (US$28)
Litre of fuel: 1.55 QR (US$0.43)
Meal for 2 (inexpensive restaurant): 25 QR (US$6.80)
Meal for 2 (expensive restaurant): 180.00 QR (US$50)
Big Mac Meal: 19 QR (US$6.87)
Room in a budget hotel: 110+ QR (US$30)
Room in a mid-range hotel: 182+ QR (US$50)
Room in a top-end hotel: 528+ QR (US$145)
People
One of the many beautiful displays at the Qatar National Museum in Doha.
While Qatar has been inhabited for thousands of years, modern day Qatari’s are descendant’s of nomadic Arab tribes who came to the peninsula in the 18th century from the eastern regions of Saudi Arabia. As of 2017, Qatar had a population of 2.6 million inhabitants, the majority of whom live in Doha.
Guest Workers
As with other Gulf nations, the discovery of oil (in 1935) led to a rapid increase in immigration as ‘guest workers’, mostly from the Sub-continent countries of India, Bangladesh and Pakistan poured into the country to work on infrastructure and construction projects. Today, these guest workers account for 88% of the total population with Indians comprising the largest ethnic group in the country at 25%, while Bangladeshi’s account for 12% and Filipino’s, who are employed as either domestic helpers or in the service industry, represent 10%. Native Qatari’s comprise just 12% of the population.
A Population Pyramid of Qatar illustrates the distortion between the sexes. Source: Wikipedia
The presence of such a large number of, mostly male, guest workers massively distorts the national population mix with a sex ratio of 3.41 males for every female as of 2017.
The treatment of foreign workers by Qatari employers has been heavily criticised in recent years, especially in the lead up to the World Cup in 2022.
Numerous media reports and investigations by Amnesty International have detailed appalling living conditions and work practises which are exploitative and abusive.
The ‘Kafala‘ or sponsorship system practised by Qatar and other Gulf nations has been stated as the main reason for abuse of the rights of low-income migrant workers. The Qatar government has recently made changes to this system which included the establishment of a minimum monthly wage (US$200) and allowing workers to leave the country under their own free will (which was not previously possible).
Sights
A balloon vendor at Souk Waqif.
Most sights in Qatar are to be found in Doha, however there are enough attractions located elsewhere that’s its worth hiring a car (see ‘Car Rental‘ below) for a few days to explore beyond the city limits.
Doha
Museum of Islamic Art
The IM Pei-designed Museum of Islamic Art is a highlight of Qatar.
When Qatari authorities wanted an architect to design their new showpiece, the Museum of Islamic Art (MIA), they convinced Chinese master architect, IM Pei(famous for designing the Louvre “pyramid” and many other masterpieces) to come out of retirement for the project.
IM Pei has created perfectly symmetrical spaces throughout the MIA.
What Mr Pei has designed is a building which certainly stands out,. Built on its own artificial island, 60 metres offshore, in Doha harbour, the approach is impressive while the sweeping, hollow interior with its central, Islamic-inspired skylight is awe-inspiring.
The spacious interior of the MIA incorporates many elements of Islamic design.
Then there are the displays, masterfully presented over 3 floors, which feature artworks from the region and beyond (Spain, Egypt, Iran, Iraq, Turkey, India, and Central Asia).
The galleries of the MIA feature many strikingly examples of Islamic art.
The galleries feature one of the finest collections of Islamic art to be found anywhere in the world – dazzling collections which underscore the seriousness of the country’s cultural ambition. Items Spain, Egypt, Iran, Iraq, Turkey, India, and Central Asia. It is a museum unlike any other!
One of the many eclectic displays at the MIA – a collection of Astrolabe’s.
While the galleries are both spacious and wonderfully uncluttered, many of the displays could be described as eclectic and quirky, such as the collection of Islamic Astrolabes (a two-dimensional map of the heavens which shows the movement of celestial bodies) or a collection of pottery tea-urn filters.
The exterior courtyard of the MIA includes arches and water features, both of which are central to Islamic design.
MIA Park
A Qatari couple admiring the Doha skyline from MIA park.
Next to the museum is the purpose-built MIA park which provides panoramic views of the Doha skyline and the opportunity to relax in a harbour-side cafe after visiting the museum.
The soaring ‘7’ sculpture by American artist Richard Serra is a highlight of MIA park.
One interesting art installation in the park is the hard-to-miss, 80-ft high, ‘7’ sculpture. Designed by American artist Richard Serra. The seven-sided sculpture is made from 7 steel sheets and serves as a tribute to the importance of the number 7 in Islamic culture.
National Museum of Qatar
A view of the almost-completed National Museum of Qatar from my hotel room. The museum was designed by Jean Novel who was inspired by a desert rose.
Opened on the 28th of March 2019, the National Museum of Qatar (NMoQ) features an innovative design by French architect, Jean Nouvel who was inspired by a desert rose crystal which can be found in the desert throughout the country.
A view of the National Museum of Qatar and Jean-Michel Othoniel’s “ALFA”, a water feature which consists of 114 fountain sculptures.
The 52,000 m² museum houses interlocking galleries which showcase Qatari history through a series of permanent exhibits. Displays include the natural history of Qatar, Bedouin culture, historical exhibitions on the tribal wars, the establishment of the Qatari state, and finally the discovery of oil to the present.
The large, curved walls of the National Museum of Qatar are used to project images which enhance the various displays.
The fluid design of the museum does not include any doors, allowing visitors to flow through the different exhibits. The ample wall space in the galleries is used to project beautiful, evocative images which complement the displays.
The striking wooden ceiling of the National Museum of Qatar gift shop was designed by an Australian architectural firm.
One of the more spectacular design features is the cavernous wooden ceiling of the museum gift shop which was created using 40,000 wooden sheets by the Australian architectural firm Koichi Takada. The ceilings provide a ‘cave’ feel to the shop and follow the fluid form of Jean Nouvel’s design.
Doha Corniche
“And amongst the Sultan’s I stood out.” A stainless steel calligraphy sculpture by artist Sabah Arbilli adorns the Corniche.
Outside the museum, the busy, 7 km long, Doha Corniche wraps around Doha Bay, connecting most of the sights of interest. This busy arterial road is lined with flower beds, grassy verges and a walkway, making it a popular place to exercise.
A traditional dhow boat and the Museum of Islamic Art, as seen from the Corniche.
Souq Waqif
The traditional marketplace in the heart of Doha old town, Souq Waqif is now a shopping and dining hub.
A short walk from the Corniche, the beautifully restored Souq Waqif lies in the heart of the old town. This typical Arabic market, which dates back hundreds of years and was recently restored, is one of the top tourist destinations in Doha.
A great place to shop and eat, the souk is closed most afternoons but comes alive in the late afternoon, once the desert sun retreats.
The shops inside Souk Waqif sell a range of colourful gifts and souvenirs.
The Falcon Souq
A customer inspects a Falcon prior to purchase.
A highlight of a visit to Souk Waqif is the very unique Falcon Souk. Falconry is an integral part of Qatari culture and – with a top bird fetching up to US$275,000 – the sport of kings is big business.
It therefore isn’t surprising to find an entire block of Souq Waqif dedicated to these impressive birds of prey. There’s even an extensive, and very modern, ‘Falcon Hospital’ inside the souk.
Falcons for sale in one of the many shops which can be found in the Falcon Souk.
The shopkeepers will proudly lead you around the falcon showrooms, where a lot of the birds (most of them hooded) rest lined up on their perches.
Falcons sold at the souk come with their own passports, attesting to their Qatari origin.
Falconry has a compelling place in Qatari society. Falconers revere falcons and take excellent care of their cherished birds. The falcon Souq and its amenities like the Souq Waqif Falcon Hospital might seem frivolous and extravagant to an outsider but for Qataris, it’s perfectly normal.
City Centre
The Doha City Centre skyline at night.
A former fishing village, Doha is quickly developing into a modern, cosmopolitan city which is known for its futuristic skyscrapers and ultramodern architecture inspired by ancient Islamic design.
Modern skyscrapers in Doha City Centre.
The epi-centre of this transformation is the glitzy City Centre which is home to a host of architecturally, award-winning, buildings.
The 232-metre ‘Doha Tower’ was designed by French architect Jean Nouvel.
One of the standout buildings in the city is Doha Tower which was designed by Jean Nouvel (who also designed the Qatar National Museum). The 232 metre building has no central core, providing more floor space and is covered by a steel, Islamic-designed, lattice which shades the building from the sun and hides the usual coating of ‘desert dust’ which covers all buildings in the region.
Doha City Centre is a showcase of contemporary architecture.
Beyond Doha – A Day Trip to Northern Qatar
A day trip to northern Qatar.
A worthwhile day trip follows the excellent, and very fast, Highway 1, which connects Doha with the northern town of Al Ruwais (127 km), passing Al Khor (57 km) along the way. From Al Ruwais you can return to Doha via the fortress of Al Zubara.
Al Khor
The waterfront in downtown Al Khor.
Located 57 km north of Doha, Al Khor (‘Creek’ in Arabic) is one of the larger towns in Qatar and has been designated as a host city for the 2022 World Cup. Al Khor is home to many guest workers and ex-pats who work in the nearby oil and gas fields.
Al Khor is known for its watchtowers which stand sentinel along the coast.
The town is known for its three historic watchtowers, known as the Al Khor Towers, which can be found along the Corniche. The Corniche has recently been revamped with grassy parks, complete with picnic tables and shelters, lining the shore front.
If you’re in need of a caffeine fix or lunch, the Al Khor Mall offers plenty of good options. From Al Khor, it’s a fast, 70 km drive to the northern port city of Al Ruwais.
Al Ruwais
The dhow harbour in Al Ruwais is home to a large fleet of fishing boats.
Al Ruwais (‘Small Head’ in Arabic, which is a reference to its location on a small promontory) is an important fishing port located at the northern tip of Qatar, 127 km (1 hour) north of Doha via Highway 1, which terminates in the town.
Al Ruwais is known for its port which is home to a large fleet of traditional wooden fishing boats. Before the discovery of oil and gas, Al Ruwais was one of the most important fishing centres on the peninsula and a hub of economic activity.
From Al Ruwais, the coast road runs south-west for 27 km (25 mins) to the spectacular Al Zubarah Fort & Township.
Al Zubarah Fort
Al Zubarah Fort is Qatar’s only UNESCO World Heritage site.
Located 105 km north-west of Doha, the UNESCO World Heritage listed Al Zubarah Fort looks as if it’s jumped off the pages of 1001 Arabian Nights. It is the quintessential Arabian desert fortress and a spectacular sight, especially in the late afternoon when it’s illuminated by the glow of the setting desert sun.
Located on the side of the main road, the fort was originally built by Sheikh Abdullah bin Jassim Al Thani in 1938 to serve as a Coast Guard station. It has since been converted into a museum to display archaeological exhibits from the neighbouring ancient town of Zubarah. The fort is open from 8 a.m. until 6 p.m. – admission is free.
Ancient Zubarah
An excavated section of the former city walls of ancient Zubarah.
Located in the middle of the desert, but within sight of the fort, the ancient, buried city of Zubarah (‘Sand Mounds’ in Arabic) is Qatar’s most substantial archaeological site.
It’s alleged that Zubarah was founded in the 17th century as a fishing and pearling village. What makes Zubarah important is that it’s one of the most extensive and best preserved examples of an early settlement in the region. Most of the town still remains buried under sand. It’s estimated that, during its height, the town covered 400 hectares and was home to between 6,000 and 9,000 people.
Excavated houses in ancient Zubarah.
During my visit, I had the whole sight to myself. Several marked walking trails lead you along the half-buried walls which once encircled the town. Away from the walls, the trails lead you pass excavated dwellings.
Beyond Doha – A Day Trip to Western Qatar
A Day Trip to Western Qatar.
Another interesting day trip from Doha follows the excellent Dukhan Highway to the west coast town of Duhkan, a one hour journey covering 100 km.
Fifteen kilometres before Dukhan, a right-hand turn off the highway brings you onto an excellent, brand-new, paved road which passes through surreal desert landscapes, terminating in the town of Zekreet.
Zekreet
The otherworldly landscapes around Zakreet.
While the small settlement of Zekreet is mildly interesting, it’s the journey there which is the main attraction. A short drive off the highway, you enter a lunar landscape of erosional land forms comprised of mesas and low ridges.
Off-roading in my rental car near Zakreet.
To access the more interesting landscapes you need to drive off-road, which is easily done in a regular car. One of the more interesting sights is the ‘Hole in the Rock’ which can be seen from the main road (right side while travelling towards Zekreet).
The un-signposted ‘Hole in the Rock’ is located just off the Zakreet highway.
Dukhan
Photography is prohibited in the Qatar Petroleum town of Dukhan, even at the beach.
The sight of the first oil discovery in Qatar in 1935, Dukhan has developed around the oil industry and is very much a company town. The area in and around town (and most of the way south along the coast) is administrated by Qatar’s state oil agency Qatar Petroleum (QP) who have been granted a concession over this section of the west coast. As of 2018, QP was the third largest oil company in the world by oil and gas reserves and is responsible for providing 60% of the annual GDP of Qatar.
A view of sleepy Zekreet.
Dukhan is home to a huge QP compound which houses thousands of ex-pat workers and their families. The walled compound is the size of a suburb and sits in the middle of town and access to it is restricted to QP staff and family members.
While there are many sensitive industrial installations around town, there are few sights. Signs everywhere warn against any sort of photography, even at the beach.
When returning to Doha from the west coast, it’s best to return the same way via the Duhkan highway. You should avoid heading south down the coast to the town of Umm Bab then east back to Doha. The rough, single lane road from Umm Bab to Doha is used mostly by trucks (100’s of them) carrying concrete and other construction materials. A nightmare journey!
Accommodation
Window cleaners at the Radisson Blu Hotel in Doha.
Booking.com and Hotels.com currently list about 140 properties in Doha, but with new hotels constantly under construction, the number of options continues to grow.
Top-End Hotels:
It is clear from the bargain rates offered by the international hotel chains that the supply of hotel rooms in Doha currently outstrips demand. Five and four star accommodation can be surprisingly affordable with a room at the DohaHiltonDoubletree (5-star) currently costing US$100 per night, while a room at the Doha Intercontinental (5-star) costs around US$200 per night.
The private beach at the Sheraton Grand Resort in Doha.
If you wish to stay somewhere which offers a private beach in an unbeatable location, the 5-star Sheraton Grand Doha offers excellent accommodation (rooms from US$240 per night), a short walk from the financial district.
Lobby of the Sheraton Grand resort in Doha.
While in Doha, I stayed at the wonderful and highly recommended, Radisson Blu (4 -star) where a standard room costs just US$67 per night. A real bargain!
Mid-Range Hotels:
The Century Hotel in Doha offers comfortable rooms at great rates in a central location.
Another hotel I stayed at, and would definitely recommend, is the centrally located Century Hotel Doha (3.5-star). Located in the old town, a 15 minute taxi ride (50 QR) from the airport, the hotel is a short walk from all the major sights, making it a perfect option if you plan to explore Doha. Standard rooms, which are very spacious and comfortable, cost around US$55 per night. There are plenty of cheap Indian restaurants around the hotel which provide tasty, filling meals for around US$5. The newly opened National Museum of Qatar is a short walk from the hotel.
My room at the Century Hotel in Doha.
Budget Hotels:
A double room at the (2-star) Qatar Youth Hostel costs US$33 per night. By paying a little more, you can upgrade to a significantly better mid-range hotel. A room in a basic guesthouse can cost as little as US$15 per night.
Eating Out
Restaurants
Doha has no shortage of restaurants which serve affordable and delicious Middle Eastern cuisine.
Restaurants in Doha run the gamut from the cheapest of eats to deluxe, fine dining. One of my favourite places to dine in the evening was along the airy, cobbled streets of Souq Waqif where a multitude of excellent restaurants offer a variety of cuisines from Yemeni, Persian, Iraqi, Lebanese, Syrian, Indian and even Italian (one cannot live on humus alone!).
The bustling alleyways of Soul Waqif, which offers a large array of dining options.
If you’re in the mood for something sweet, there’s one section of the Souq where you’ll find a team of crêpe makers who prepare the most amazing crêpe’s on the footpath for 5 QR. The Nutella crêpe’s are the perfect dessert after a meal of Humus, Tabbouleh and Baba Ghanoush.
My Nutella crêpe dessert being prepared at Souk Waqif.
During my stay, I frequented the many different Indian restaurants which cater to the army of (poorly paid) guest workers. These restaurants naturally offer incredible value, serving up Indian favourites for less than 20 QR (including a drink). Such restaurants tend to be small and always busy with tables shared by all and sundry.
My regular breakfast restaurant in Doha, the Al Zarka restaurant is a typical Indian eatery, selling cheap, tasty dishes to the army of guest workers.
One of my favourite Indian ‘cheap-eats’ is Al Zarka, which is located a short walk from the Qatar National Museum on Al Muthaf street. Both Indian and Arabic food are served here in generous portions at very reasonable prices. My favourite breakfast was a delicious omelette rolled inside a fresh Roti with a pint of freshly squeezed orange juice which was a bargain at 15 QR (US$4).
Cafés
The newly opened ‘Desert Rose Cafe’ at the Qatar National Museum.
There are many fine café options in Doha with one of the best being the newest kid on the block – The Desert Rose Cafe. Located on the grounds of the Qatar National Museum, this stylish cafe serves excellent coffee along with tasty meals – an ideal stop after visiting the museum.
The Costa Coffee chain has several outlets around town with the most popular located on the Corniche next to the Sheraton hotel.
The Monoprix cafe offers the best value coffee in Doha City Centre.
At an average cost of 20 QR (US$5.50) a cup, coffee prices in the glitzy Financial district are steep. However, one saving grace is the street-side café operated by Monoprix which serves wonderful coffee from a beautifully restored Volkswagen van at half the price of nearby cafes.
Bars
Forget it!
With a strict ban on alcohol, it’s not surprising that there is no bar scene in Qatar. Locals looking to socialise frequent lounges (which are like bars without the alcohol) and cafes which serve coffee, tea, juices and Sheesha.
Visa Requirements
Qatar passport stamps.
Qatar provides visa-free access to nationalities from 80 different countries. To check your requirements, you should consult the Visa Policy of Qatar.
Getting There
The departure hall of Hamid International Airport.
Air
An air-side view of Hamid International Airport.
All flights into Qatar arrive at Doha’s brand new, sparkling clean, Hamad International Airport (IATA: DOH) which has recently been voted “4th Best Airport in the World” by Skytrax.
The modern and inviting terminal at Hamid International Airport in Doha.
The airport serves as the hub for Qatar Airways (QR), which was voted “2nd Best Airline in the World (2018)” in the same awards. Qatar Airways (QR) currently serves 80 destinations, flying to all (inhabited) continents.
If you wish to freshen up during your transit stop, large, spotlessly clean, shower facilities (QR 80) are offered by the be relaxspa which can be found alongside the food court in Concourse A. The friendly Filipina staff offer a range of pampering services.
Long Layovers: If you’re flying with Qatar Airways and have a long layover in Doha and decide to break your journey and check into one of the many affordable hotels in town, you can not retrieve your checked luggage at Hamid International Airport. Not, that is, without first going to the QR customer service desk and changing your ticket to a ‘multi-city’ ticket. This will incur a change fee of course! It’s a revenue generating exercise for QR.
If you do decide you really need your bag, I was informed by ground staff that the retrieval process takes at least an hour. Best to pack essentials into your carry-on baggage.
Departure boards at Hamid International Airport.
Airport Artwork
Qatar Museums have placed a number of artworks around the airport to “inspire the millions of travellers who pass through the airport“. A list of different installations can be viewed on their website.
Lamp Bear
Lamp Bear is a focal point of Doha’s Hamid International Airport.
The icon, and focal point, of Doha airport is the very large and very yellow Lamp Bear, a giant bronze statue of a teddy bear with its head in a lamp.
The sculpture was created by Swiss artist Urs Fischer (interestingly, the name ‘Urs’ in German translates as ‘Bear’) and was originally displayed at the Seagram Building in New York City before being purchased by a member of the Qatari royal family at a Christie’s auction for US$6.8 million.
At seven metres tall and weighing approximately 18-20 tons, Lamp Bear can be found sitting in the middle of the duty free shopping area.
Small Lie
The latest artwork to be installed at HIA, the 32 feet tall ‘Small Lie’ is the work of American artist KAWS.
One of the latest works to be installed inside the terminal is ‘Small Lie‘ by American artist Brian Donnelly, better known as KAWS. Reminiscent of a wooden marionette, the sculpture is made from Afrormosia wood, weighing in at 15 tonnes and standing 32 feet tall.
The following video was released by Qatar Museums to promote ‘Small Lie’.
Scheduled Services
The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from Doha:
Air India Express – flies to/ from Kannur, Kochi, Kozhikode, Mangalore, Mumbai, Thiruvananthapuram
It is illegal to import alcohol into Qatar. If you are simply transiting, you can carry alcohol (there are even duty free shops at the airport which sell it). However, you cannot enter Qatar with any alcohol and to ensure this it doesn’t happen, all your luggage will be x-rayed by customs.
Airport Transport
Turquoise-coloured, metered, city taxis are available from outside the left-hand exit of the arrivals hall. Taxis from the airport charge 25 QR (US$6.90) pickup flag fall per trip. For an overview of taxi tariffs, please refer to the ‘Getting Around‘ section below.
Regular public buses (route 747) depart from outside the right-hand exit of the arrivals hall and cost 3 QR to downtown. For an overview of all bus services in Doha, please refer to the ‘Getting Around‘ section below.
Land
Qatar’s only land border, the Abu Samra crossing connects Qatar and Saudi Arabia.
From 2017 until the 4th of January 2021, the border was closed as part of a diplomatic boycott of Qatar which was led by Saudi Arabia. At the time, the Saudis threatened to dig a canal along the full length of the border (60 km) which would have made Qatar an island-state.
Warm relations have now resumed and as such, Qatar’s one land border is now operating normally.
Sea
Cruise ships call at Doha Port from October through to May of each year – you can check the current schedulehere.
Mowasalatoperates a fleet of 250 modern, comfortable buses on 50 different routes which cover the entire area of Doha.
Prior to boarding any bus, you’ll need to purchase the Karwa Smart Card (although drivers on the airport route often accept cash from newly arrived tourists).
Fares around Doha cost from 3 QR to 7 QR per trip.
Intercity Buses
Beyond Doha, nine different routes allow you to reach Al Ruwais/Al Shamal, Al Thakhira, Dukhan, Mesaieed Industrial City, Abu Samra, Umm Garn Village, Al Kheesa and Al Khor.
Tourist Service
The hop-on-hop-off Doha bus.
The Hop On/ Hop Off service offered by Doha Bus covers all of the main sights within the capital. Tickets cost 95 QR (adults), with the bus operating on three different routes (Red, Green and Orange), all of which are illustrated on the downloadable route map.
Taxi
A turquoise-coloured Doha Taxi outside Souk Waqif.
Like the buses, taxis in Qatar are operated by the State-owned Mowasalat who provide a fleet of beautiful, modern, comfortable, clean, turquoise-coloured taxis. The initial cost of taxi hire is 10 QR but this will get you far before the meter starts to increase.
Doha Taxi Tariffs.
The drivers are always guest workers from the sub-continent and are usually polite and always use the meter, otherwise the trip is free. Current tariffs are included in the graphic above, supplied by the Qatar Tribune.
Metro
Doha Metro Route Map. Source: Qatar Rail.
A brand new, state-of-the-art, Metro? Oh yes! Just another mega infrastructure project which is currently under construction by Qatar Rail.
Still under construction at the time of my visit – the Doha Exhibition & Convention Centre (DECC) Metro station.
Being built at an estimated cost of US$36 billion, the metro is being constructed in two phases with phase one (37 stations) due to be opened by 2020 with three underground lines (click each for route maps):
Update: A section of the red line between Al Quasar and Al Wakra became operational on the 8th of May 2019, the first section of the Metro to open. You can view the current schedule on the Mowasalat website.
This line also includes a branch line to Hamid International Airport but an opening date for the airport station is yet to be advised.
Rental Car
On the road to Zakreet in my rental car.
A rental car is the best way to maximise your time in the country, especially with public transport outside Doha being thin on the ground. With daily rates starting at US$28 and fuel costs at 1.55 QR (US$0.43) per litre, car hire is definitely affordable.
The Qatari government has made huge investments in infrastructure, such as the impressive ‘Highway 1’ which connects Doha to the North coast.
The country has also spent big on highway construction with perfectly paved, fully lit, eight-lane motorways cutting paths across the dessert. Construction is still ongoing with new highways being added.
There are currently 18 different rental car companies at Hamad International Airport, all of which are listed here.
Welcome to the taste2travel Isle of Man Travel Guide!
Date Visited: April 2018
Introduction
Many people have heard of the Isle of Man (IOM), but how many people, outside of the British Isles or Ireland, could point to it on a map of the world? I know I had to take a look at my atlas – and was surprised by its location!
The Isle of Man is small in area, with good infrastructure and varying landscapes.
Located in the Irish Sea, like a giant’s stepping stone, mid-way between England and Ireland, the Isle of Man, along with Guernsey and Jersey, is one of three self-governing British Crown Dependencies.
The striking flag of the Isle of Man, includes the ‘Legs of Man’, an ancient symbol.
What exactly is a Crown Dependency?
Crown Dependencies do not form part of the United Kingdom and are not classed as British Overseas Territories, they maintain a large degree of autonomy over their own affairs. They issue their own currency, stamps and passports.
In the international realm, the dependencies are considered “territories for which the United Kingdom is responsible“. Each of the Crown Dependencies have their own legislative assemblies, with the power to legislate on many local matters.
The view of the town of Peel.
For travel purposes, all Crown Dependencies lie within the Common Travel Area (CTA), which includes the United Kingdom and Ireland. There are no passport controls when travelling between areas in the CTA and all air and sea connections to IOM originate from within the zone.
The Isle of Man is known for its bucolic scenery.
Known for its rich history, beautiful countryside, sleepy villages and attractive towns, the Isle of Man attracts surprisingly few visitors, with just 266,000 arrivals in 2017, most of whom were from the UK and Ireland. If you make the journey, you will be rewarded. The island offers plenty of accommodation and dining options, delicious, locally brewed, craft beer and plenty of attractions.
A view of the capital Douglas, which is located on a wide bay overlooking the Irish Sea.
The small size of the island allows you to base yourself in one location and explore the remotest of corners – all on easy day trips. I would recommend the capital, Douglas, as a convenient base.
Getting around the island is made even more pleasant thanks to various heritage railways, which are operated by the Isle of Man Rail Company. This is the island that gave the World “Thomas the Tank Engine”.
Did you know?
Thomas the Tank Engine – inspired by the railways of IOM. Source: Wikipedia
Thomas the Tank Engine was inspired by the Isle of Man Steam Railway and the feature film “Thomas and the Magic Railroad” was filmed on the island.
The creator of Thomas, the Reverend Wilbert (WV) Awdry, was stationed on the Isle of Man in 1945 when the first story was written. The island is within the ‘Diocese of Sodor and Man’. The story of “Thomas and Friends” is set on a fictitious island in the Irish Sea known as ‘Sodor‘.
Location
Douglas, Isle of Man
The Isle of Man is located in the middle of the Irish sea, almost equidistant between Ireland and the United Kingdom, from which there are regular ferry and air services.
At 572 square kilometres (221 square miles), hilly IOM is smaller than Singapore but much larger than Jersey or Guernsey, sustaining a population of 84,000 plus many sheep. The highest point on the island is Mt. Snaefell which lies at 621 metres (2037 ft) and is accessible via the Mt. Snaefell Mountain Railway.
Mt. Snaefell, the highest point on the Isle of Man, rises gently to 621 metres (2037 ft).
Currency
Isle of Man bank notes.
Like Guernsey and Jersey, the Isle of Man issues its own version of the Pound (£) – the Manx Pound which is in parity with the UK Pound Sterling. Notes and coins, denominated in pounds and pence, are issued by the Isle of Man Government Treasury.
UK notes and coins (whether from banks in England, Scotland, or Northern Ireland) are accepted in the Isle of Man, but Manx notes and coins are not accepted in the UK. You should ensure you convert any Manx currency to UK currency prior to leaving the island.
Unlike the mainland, the Crown Dependencies still use £1 notes.
Flag
The unique flag of the Isle of Man features the “Triskelion” – the legs of Man.
The flag of the Isle of Man features a Triskelion, an ancient symbol which is comprised of three armoured legs with golden spurs, upon a red background. Known as the ‘Legs of Man’, the triskelion has featured on the island’s coat of arms since the 13th century.
The Isle of Man flag fluttering in the breeze on the promenade in Douglas.
Sightseeing
Douglas
The waterfront in Douglas, capital of the Isle of Man.
Home to 28,000 souls (33% of the island’s population), Douglas is the largest city and capital of the Isle of Man. The city is located on the wide Douglas Bay, which curves for 2 miles along the coastline. Most accommodation can be found along the waterfront, which is home to a pedestrian promenade and the Douglas Bay Horse Tramway.
The historic Douglas Bay Horse Tramway is a great way to take in the sights of the Capital’s waterfront.
Founded in 1876, this ‘single-horse power’ tram clops for 1.6 miles along the promenade in downtown Douglas, connecting Derby Castle to the Sea Terminal. The tram is operated by the Isle of Man Rail Company with a single ride ticket costing £3 for adults and £2 per child. There are currently 16 different ‘trammers’ working for the tramway with others in training.
Made from Manx granite, the Douglas War Memorial is dedicated to those who lost their lives in WWI and WWII.
One of the sights you pass while riding the horse tramway is the impressive Douglas War Memorial. This 15 metre (50 feet) high column is constructed from Manx Granite and is surmounted by the three-ton figure of a soldier called “The Manxman“. The memorial is located on the promenade with the soldier’s back turned from the sea.
At the end of the promenade is the Isle of Man Sea Terminal which is the arrival point for the Steam Packet Ferries which connect the Isle of Man to the UK and Ireland
Built in 1832, the Tower of Refuge sits atop St. Mary’s Isle, a partly submerged reef in Douglas harbour.
Located on St. Mary’s Isle, just offshore from the Sea terminal, is the medieval-looking ‘Tower of Refuge’ which was built in 1832 as a refuge for anyone shipwrecked on the isle. The refuge was constructed two years after a ship, the ‘St. George’, was wrecked upon the rocks. All 40 crewmen were rescued successfully.
Wedged between the Isle of Man Sea Terminal and Douglas Railway station is the Douglas Marina and Quayside precinct, which is home to numerous cafes, bars and restaurants (see the ‘Eating Out’ section for more details). This neighbourhood is relaxed and sleepy during the day but comes alive at night, offering lots of entertainment and dining options.
One of the best museums in the country is the Manx Museumwhich is located in downtown Douglas. The museum displays cover every aspect of island history (10,000 years of it!) from the Viking era to the modern era.
Beyond Douglas
Once you’ve finished exploring the sights of Douglas, you can venture further afield using one of the three heritage railways which are operated by the Isle of Man Rail Company. All of these services are fantastic and a ‘must do’ while on the island.
The Manx Electric railway ready to depart from the promenade at Douglas.
Manx Electric Railway
From its terminus at Derby Castle (located at the northern end of the promenade), the Manx Electric Railway (MER) connects the capital with the northern towns of Laxey and Ramsey, covering a total distance of 28 km (17.5 mi) in a leisurely 75 minutes. Built between 1893 and 1899, the railway offers spectacular views of the east coast. A return journey from Douglas to Ramsey costs £12.40 for adults.
The Manx Electric Railway offers panoramic views of the coastline north of Douglas.
In the town of Laxey, you can transfer from the MER to another heritage railway – the Snaefell Mountain Railway (light green line on the Map), which will transport you to the highest peak on the Isle of Man (see the ‘Mt. Snaefell‘ section below for more details).
The Snaefell Mountain Railway ready to depart Laxey for the climb to the summit of Mount Snaefell.
Isle of Man Steam Railway
If you wish to explore the southern part of the island, you can do so using the Isle of Man Steam Railway which connects Douglas to Port Erin (where you’ll find a museum dedicated to the railway), via Castletown.
The railway commenced service in 1874 and still operates with its original locomotives and red carriages. The journey time from Douglas to the terminus at Port Erin is one hour with an adult return fare costing £13.40.
The distinctly red carriages of the Isle of Man Steam Railway Company.
Around the Island
A touring map of the Isle of Man displayed outside Ramsey station.
The short distances, excellent infrastructure and light traffic on the island, allow you to easily explore IOM on day trips, using Douglas as a base.
Some sample road distances:
Douglas to Ramsey – 20 km (12 mi)
Douglas to Castletown – 14 km (9 mi)
Douglas to Port Erin – 19 km (11 mi)
Douglas to Peel – 16 km (10 mi)
Douglas to Point of Ayre – 36 km (19 mi)
The beautiful Ring-necked Pheasant is a common sight on the Isle of Man.
Isle of Man TT Mountain Course
A map of the TT Race course.
Motorcycling enthusiast’s, the world over, know all about the International Isle of Man TT (Tourist Trophy) race, which is held annually at the end of May. The race has been run since 1907, and is often called one of the most dangerous racing events in the world.
The course runs west from Douglas then north to the town of Ramsey before returning to Douglas over the central mountain range. Each lap is 60.7 km (38 mi) in length, includes more than 200 bends and climbs from sea level to an altitude of 396 m (1,300 ft) at the base of Mount Snaefell. The current lap record is held by Peter Hickman who, in 2018, completed the course in 16:42:778, at an average speed of 217 km/h (135 mph).
Taking a pit stop while driving my rental car around the TT circuit.
The entire circuit is comprised of ordinary public highways which are closed for the racing and practice sessions. This is great news if you have your own rental car. A drive around the circuit is a must while on the island, offering many fine views and access to many different sights.
Plenty of picturesque views to be seen while driving the TT circuit.
St. Michael’s Isle
Derby Fort, St Michael’s Isle.
Well away from the noise of the TT circuit and located a short drive from Castletown, St Michael’s Isle (or Fort Island as it’s more commonly known), is home to two historic, ruined sights; the beautifully situated Derby Fort and St. Michael’s Chapel. The two sights are dramatically placed on the tiny isle, making the trip to this remote corner of IOM worthwhile.
The isle is no longer technically ‘an island’ as it’s joined to the mainland by an extremely narrow, one-lane, unpaved (and heavily pot-holed) causeway which is lined with thick, unforgiving, stone walls. You should not attempt to cross this in anything other than a small, compact car.
St. Michael’s chapel on St Michael’s Isle.
Built in the 12th century, the roofless St Michael’s Chapel consists of four walls and a bell turret. Next to the chapel, the circular Derby Fort was built in 1645 by James, 7th Earl of Derby and Lord of Mann during the civil war in England to defend nearby Derbyhaven Bay, which was then a major port, from invading forces. The current fort replaced an earlier one built in about 1540 by order of Henry VIII of England.
Castletown
The namesake of Castletown, Castle Rushen dominates the downtown area.
With a population of 3,100 – Castletown is the 5th largest town on the Isle of Man. Founded in 1090 AD, Castletown claims to be one of the oldest towns in the British Isles and served as the capital of the IOM for hundreds of years until it was transferred to Douglas in 1869.
The downtown is dominated by the imposing Medieval fortress, Castle Rushen, which was built in 1265 for a Viking king. The castle was once occupied by the Kings and Lords of Mann and is today a museum operated by Manx National Heritage.
The scenic harbour in Castletown.
Castletown is located on a pretty fishing port which experiences large tidal flows. A short walk from the harbour is the Old House of Keys, the former Manx parliament which is now a museum administered by Manx National Heritage. The current ‘House of Keys’ is in Douglas.
The former debating chamber at the Old House of Keys in Castletown.
Calf of Man
The ‘Calf of Man’ is separated from the mainland by Calf Sound and the small rocky islet of ‘Kitterland’.
A short drive along the south coast from Castletown lies the Calf of Man, the southernmost tip of the Isle of Man. The word ‘calf’ derives from the Old Norse word ‘kalfr‘ which means a small island lying near a larger one.
The Calf of Man is an uninhabited island which is separated from the ‘mainland’ by the narrow Calf Sound, a stretch of water notorious for its ferocious tidal race.
The windy Sound Road leads from Port St. Mary through the historic (and very picturesque village) of Cregneash to lands-end where you’ll find a car park and the excellent Sound Cafe(see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more details).
From the car park, walking trails offer views of the coastline, the Calf of Man and the small rocky islet of Kitterland which lies midway across the Sound and is home to a number of Grey seal colonies. The area is also and ideal destination for birdwatchers with large numbers of migratory seabirds present.
A Grey seal colony on Kitterland – a small rocky islet located between the mainland and the Calf of Man.
Port Erin
Port Erin offers one of the best beaches on the Isle of Man.
Situated in the southwest corner of the island, charming Port Erin is home to one of the most attractive beaches on the Isle of Man, which makes this town a favourite destination for holiday makers and those interested in aquatic sports.
A Steam locomotive at the Isle of Man Railway Museum in Port Erin.
The town has been a popular holiday destination since the Victorian era and is the terminus of the Isle of Man Steam Railway. Adjacent to the Port Erin Railway Station is the Isle of Man Railway Museum which charts the history of the Steam Railway from its inception in 1873. The museum features a collection of retired steam locomotives and other rail memorabilia.
Southwest Coast
A typical view along the rugged southwest coast of the Isle of Man.
The drive from Port Erin to Peel via Round Table road then Dalby road travels along the rugged, sparsely populated, southwest coast which is home to lots of wild landscapes of spiky rushes, carpets of moss and wet, peaty soils. Walking trails provide access to the hilly coastline, which offers panoramic views in all directions.
Peel
The sprawling 11th-century Peel castle.
The west coast town of Peel is dominated by the magnificent fortress ruin of Peel Castle which occupies St. Patrick’s Isle, an isle which has been inhabited since at least the Bronze Age and is named after St Patrick who, it is claimed, stepped ashore the Isle of Man at this point while on his way from Liverpool to Ireland, bringing Christianity to the island.
The first fort was built by the Vikings in the 11th century. After the Viking period, the Isle of Man was fought over by the Scottish and English, with the IOM eventually being conquered by the English who then added to the fortifications. During the English reign, St Patrick’s Isle was used both by the Church and the Lords of Mann until the castle was abandoned in the 18th century. Today, the castle is a museum operated by Manx National Heritage.
The ruined Cathedral inside Peel castle.
With a population of 5,000 – Peel is the third largest town on the Isle of Man and was the capital of the island before 1344 (when the King of Mann moved his home and military base from Peel Castle to Castle Rushen).
This west coast town is famous for its sunsets, thriving fishing port, rich maritime history, historic old town and various museums, including the House of Manannanmuseum which provides an insight into the island’s Celtic, Viking and maritime past.
The view of Peel from Peel castle.
You cannot visit Peel without sampling the best ice-cream on the Isle of Man which is served by the scoop at Davisons ice cream shop which is located on the waterfront. Besides ice-cream, they make a mean milkshake, using only the finest of Manx dairy ice cream.
St. John’s
The Tynwald Hill is the sight of the original parliament on the Isle of Man.
A short drive east of Peel is the hamlet of St. John’s which is home to the historic, man-made bump known as the Tynwald Hill. This four-tired hill, which is thought to be made from soil from all the Island’s 17 ancient parishes, is used once a year to host an open-air meeting of the Island’s parliament.
The location was first used by the Vikings who conducted parliamentary meetings here over a thousand years ago. The hill was constructed in the 13th century, and has been in continuous use making it the oldest continuous parliament in the world.
Far North Coast
The pebbly beach at the Point of Ayre. Scotland lies just beyond the horizon.
The most northerly point on the Isle of Man is the remote and isolated Point of Ayre, which is closer to Scotland than Douglas. Here you’ll find the Ayres Nature Reserve which is one of the best places to observe wildlife on the Isle of Man and the Point of Ayre lighthouse.
An historic Celtic Cross in the grounds of St Andrew’s Church in the northern town of Andreas.
In the town of Andreas, the Church of England church, St. Andrew’s is worth a stop. The current church dates from 1821, however a church has stood at this location since at least the 13th century.
A typical thatched cottage on Cranstal Road, near the northern village of Bride.
Several charming villages can be found in the north of the island with traditional Manx thatched-roof cottages lining the country lanes. The village of Bride is home to some excellent examples with one pictured here.
Ramsey
A tourism poster for the Isle of Man.
Located on the northeast coast, the town of Ramsey (pop: 7,300) is the second largest town on the Island and is the northern terminus for the Manx Electric Railway which travels up the coast from Douglas. Besides the railway, the town can be reached by road, travelling along the world-famous TT Mountain Course, which affords stunning views of the countryside and coast before it descends into town.
The TT Mountain Circuit crosses the Manx hills before descending into Ramsey.
Ramsey is in the sunniest area of the Isle of Man, and one of the driest, receiving relatively low rainfall due to its ‘rain shadow’ location, north-east of the Manx hills.
North of Ramsey, sandy beaches run continuously to the north tip of the island. Downtown, Ramsey beach is popular in the summertime and is punctuated by the 683 metre (2,241 ft) long Queen’s Pier, an iron pier which was built in 1886. Located near the intersection of Queen’s promenade and Queen’s drive, the crumbling Queen’s Pier has been closed to the public since the early 1990’s due to safety concerns and is awaiting restoration. Currently a society, the Friends of Ramsey Queen’s Pier, are raising funds to commence restoration work, you can keep up to date with their efforts here.
The Manx Electric railway ready to depart from Ramsay (Parsonage Road) for Douglas.
The charming old town lies a short stroll from the Manx Electric Railway terminus (Parsonage Road) and can easily be explored on foot in an hour or two. Several restaurants and cafes line the main street, Parliament street, providing good lunchtime dining options or a quick caffeine fix. The best coffee in town is served by the Costa Cafe branch on Parliament street.
Laxey
Towering over the village of Laxey, the Great Laxey wheel is the largest working waterwheel in the world.
Located in a deep valley on the east coast, midway between Douglas and Ramsey, Laxey is a historic village which was named by the Vikings who called it Laxa meaning Salmon River.
Originally used to pump water from a mine, the Great Laxey wheel is built into the hillside above the village of Laxey in the Isle of Man.
The main attraction in town is the impressive GreatLaxey wheel, the largest working waterwheel in the world. Also known as the Lady Isabella (after the wife of a former governor), the wheel was built in 1854 to pump water from the Laxey mine shafts. Revolving at about 3 rpm, the wheel is 72 feet 6 inches (22.10 m) in diameter and 6 feet (1.83 m) wide.
Getting close to the fast-moving Lady Isabella.
Lead, Silver, Copper and Zinc were mined in Laxey during the 19th and 20th centuries, and today several walking trails allow tourists to visit former mine sights.
Now operated by Manx National Heritage, the wheel can be visited daily (except in winter), with a spiral staircase providing access to the top of the wheel from where you have panoramic views of Laxey village and the surrounding countryside.
A view of Laxey village from the top of the wheel.
Laxey is a key railway junction, serving as the terminus for the Snaefell Mountain Railway and an important stopover for the Manx Electric Railway.
Laxey Railway station is the terminus for the Snaefell Mountain Railway and a key stop for the Manx Electric Railway.
Mount Snaefell
A view of Mt. Snaefell from the main road. Trains can be seen climbing to the summit.
From Laxey you can journey to the summit of the Island’s only mountain, Mount Snaefell 621 m (2,036 feet) from where it is said you can view Six Kingdoms on a clear day – The Isle of Man, England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales and Heaven.
To reach the summit, you have two options:
Join the Snaefell Mountain Railway from Laxey for the 8 km (5 mi) climb to the summit, a journey time of 30 minutes.
Walk the 10 km (6 mi) trail from Laxey station to the summit which can be completed in 4.5 hours. Full details on the walk can be found here.
Travelling to the summit of Mt. Snaefell on the Mt. Snaefell railway.
I chose to take the mountain railway which was a smart move as inclement weather moved in over the mountain (a frequent occurrence) during my ascent. What started as a fine, sunny day in Laxey turned into a cold, foggy, snowy day once we started climbing up the mountain and what started as a gently breeze soon became a howling gale.
Video:
Conditions on the summit of Mt. Snaefell were bleak indeed!
The only place where you can see all of the UK
There is an irony to the fact that Isle of Man is not part of the UK, yet it is the only location in the British Isles from which you can see all the UK’s constituent parts – on clear days, England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland are visible from Mount Snaefell, but unfortunately – not on the day I visited.
Bleak conditions on the summit of Mt. Snaefell.
The one saving grace on the summit was the warm and inviting Snaefell Summit Dining cafe where you can literally eat ‘pie in the sky‘.
Accommodation
Historic houses along the promenade in Douglas are home to numerous B&B’s.
Accommodation options can be found all over the Isle of Man, with the majority or properties lining the promenade in downtown Douglas. With most transport options originating in Douglas, the capital makes an ideal base for exploring the island, with all points on the island an easy day trip away.
My ‘King Suite’ at the Inglewood Hotel in Douglas.
While on the Isle of Man, I chose to stay at the wonderful Inglewood Guest House. Located on the waterfront, this dazzling and stylish B&B was recently taken over by an amazingly energetic and enthusiastic South African couple, Yolandi and Ruan, who were busy adding their personal touches to the property at the time of my visit.
Booking.com currently lists 48 properties on the island, hotels.com lists 38 while Airbnb.com list 48 different properties from farm houses to manor houses.
Eating Out
The very pleasant Douglas Marina and Quayside is lined with restaurants, bars and cafes.
Inviting restaurants, cafés and bars can be found in all the main towns on the island, with Douglas being home to the lion’s share of options. The main dining hubs in the capital are the Douglas Marina and Quayside neighbourhood and the Promenade.
Restaurants
Located on the quayside, the Barbary Coast Grill & Bar is a lively and popular venue, with a menu that wouldn’t look out-of-place in an American sports bar. While the steaks and burgers are popular, the house speciality is their Peri Peri chicken. If you wish to sample the range of locally produced craft beers from Okell’s, you’ll find them on tap at the bar.
A short walk west along the quay is the wonderful Little Fish Cafe which offers all of the usual seafood classics in a refined atmosphere. Why not try their ‘Fish and Fizz’, traditional Fish ‘n’ Chips served with a glass of prosecco.
On the promenade there are many restaurants within walking distance of the hotels. One of the standouts is New Manila which, despite its name, offers excellent Thai cuisine.
Cafés
The amazing cake selection at the very remote ‘Sound Cafe’.
One of my favourite cafes on the Isle of Man is the very remote Sound Cafe, which is located at the end of Sound Road, a short drive south of the picturesque village of Cregneash at the southwestern tip of the island. To say this legendary, family run cafe is worth the drive is an understatement. The cafe is adjacent to the Calf Sound visitor car park (plenty of free parking) and offers views of the sound and the nearby Calf of Man.
The ‘Legs of Mann’ featured on a couple of cafe latte’s.
Being a self-declared café snob, I would not normally recommend a coffee chain as a place to enjoy a coffee – but – on the Isle of Man, there are three branches of Costa Coffee, with all three offering good coffee. Located in Douglas, Ramsey and Castletown, the branches at the later two locations offer the best coffee in those towns.
Beer
A pint of Okell’s beer is a fine way to relax after a day of touring the Isle of Man.
The local brewery, Okell’s, was founded in 1850 by Doctor William Okell – so, the beer must be good for you!
While visiting the island, I sampled most of Okell’s range of beers with the firm belief that any beverage created by a doctor must be good for one’s health.
Three of Okell’s regular beers. Source: Okells.im
The brewery produces five regular beers, including a Bitter, IPA and an MPA (Manx Pale Ale) along with four seasonal brews (Spring Ram, Summer Storm, Autumn Dawn and – in time for Christmas – St. Nick). Islanders are very loyal to their local brew with almost every bar on the island offering you the opportunity to sample these fine brews.
It’s just what the doctor ordered!
Visa Requirements
Souvenir passports stamps can be obtained from the Airport Information desk.
Along with the United Kingdom, Ireland and the Channel Islands, The Isle of Man is part of the Common Travel Area (CTA). There are no passport controls when travelling between areas in the CTA and all air and sea connections to IOM originate from within the zone.
If you’re already inside the CTA, you’re free to visit IOM.
There is no immigration control at the Isle of Man Airport but for those who would like to have a souvenir passport stamp, one can be obtained from the friendly lady at the airport information desk.
Getting There
The view of the Isle of Man from my Aer Lingus flight.
Air
Isle of Man Airport (IATA: IOM), also known as Ronaldsway Airport, is one of two gateways to the Isle of Man, with the other being the Isle of Man Sea Terminal in Douglas.
The airport is located in the southeast corner of the island, near to Castletown, and a short 11 km (6.9 mi) drive southwest of the capital, Douglas.
There’s no immigration control at the airport, with all arrivals originating from airports located within the Common Travel Area. Daily flight departures can be viewed here, while arrivals can be viewed here.
The following airlines provide services to/ from IOM:
Regular public buses connect the airport to Douglas (30 mins/ £2.70), Castletown, Peel, St. John’s and Port Erin. Taxi’s are also available outside the arrivals hall.
Sea
The Isle of Man Steam Packet Company Ferries connect the island to ports in the UK and Ireland.
Located in downtown Douglas, the Isle of Man Sea Terminal is the arrival and departure point for all passenger and car ferries operating to and from the Isle of Man.
IOM Steam Packet Company Route Map
The terminal is operated by, and is the hub for, the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company, which runs year-round sailings to Heysham, and seasonal (summer) sailings to Liverpool, Belfast and Dublin.
The crossing to/ from Heysham operates up to 13 times each week with a sailing time of 3 hours 45 minutes. You can make bookings (foot passenger – from £19.50 each way) and view the current timetable on their website.
Getting Around
Public Bus
Isle of Man Bus Route Map.
Bus services on the island are operated by the government-owned Bus Vannin who provide regular services to every corner of the island.
You can view the current bus route mapon their website, which also includes a handy journey planner – Traveline. A variety of ticket options are available, including Go Explorecards, which provide unlimited travel on all bus and rail services for a period of 1, 3, 5 or 7 days.
Train
The Snaefell mountain railway conveys passengers to the loftiest point on the island – Mount Snaefell.
The Isle of Man Rail Companyoffers four different rail journey’s, all of which provide a fascinating way of exploring the island.
IOM Railways Map. Source: IOM Railways.
Three heritage rail lines allow visitors to explore a large part of the island:
The Manx Electric Railway (blue line on the map) connects Douglas with the northern town of Ramsay.
During its meander along the east coast, the Manx Electric Railway passes through the junction town of Laxey, from where you can switch to the Snaefell Mountain Railway (light green line on the Map) which winds its way up to the island’s highest point, Mount Snaefell, which lies at 620 metres (2,037 feet) above sea level.
Running south from Douglas, the Steam Railway (redline on the map) passes through Castletown before terminating in Port Erin on the southwest coast.
The 4th service offered by the company is the novel Douglas Bay Horse Tramway (dark greenline on the map), which is covered in the Douglas section of this guide.
Details from a Manx Electric Railway carriage.
Rental Car
My rental car on the Isle of Man.
While public transport on the island is frequent and comprehensive, the best way to maximise your time is with a rental car, especially if you plan on exploring every nook and cranny.
Several Car Rental Agents can be found at IOM Airport. I hired a car through Mylchreests who are the local agent for Avis and Budget. Daily rates for a compact car start at £45 with a weekly rate for the same vehicle starting at £166.
All Isle of Man number plates feature the ‘Legs of Mann’.
For those arriving by sea, most companies can arrange advance delivery of vehicles to the Sea Terminal. The IOM Visitors website has a full listing of all agents on the island.
That’s the end of my Isle of Man Travel Guide.
Safe Travels!
Darren
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Travel Quiz 11: Flags of the World
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Welcome to taste2travel!
My name is Darren McLean, I’m the owner of taste2travel and I love travel trivia and I certainly enjoy creating travel quizzes.
There are a total of 80 different travel quizzes on taste2travel, with each quiz containing 20 questions.
That’s a total of 1,600 trivia questions waiting to challenge you.
You’ll find a range of quizzes covering such topics as:
Currencies
Flags
Capital Cities
UNESCO World Heritage Sites
World Museums
Map Quizzes
Continent-specific Quizzes
World Islands
Landlocked Countries and much more!
Don’t forget to share these quizzes with your family, friends and community using the social media buttons at the top of the quiz.
Apart from excellent travel quizzes, you’ll also find other outstanding content on taste2travel – such as travel guides, photo galleries and feature articles which provide tips on booking cheap flights and much more.
Welcome to the taste2travel Top 10 Caribbean Experiences feature.
Introduction
It’s not all rum and reggae!
Beyond the tourist brochure images of white-sand beaches, palm trees, Bob Marley and rum punches, the 33 countries and territories of the Caribbean offer a wealth of diverse travel experiences.
During the colonial period the French, Spanish, Dutch, British and even the Danish and Swedish took possession of various islands, which has left its mark today. As a result of this Colonial mélange, the islands of the Caribbean offer a diversity of cultures, traditions and ethnic mixes. The cultural highlight on the Irish-settled island of Montserrat is a week-long St. Patrick’s Day Festival, which celebrates the Irish heritage of the island with a combination of Irish and African influences.
Geographically, the islands of the Caribbean have been formed by either volcanic activity or from the movement of tectonic plates, which has exposed ancient, limestone seabed’s. While the volcanic islands offer lush, rugged, mountainous interiors, cascading waterfalls, meandering rivers and black-sand beaches, the limestone islands offer flatter, arid interiors and blindingly white-sand beaches, it’s these beaches which are featured on the covers of tourist brochures.
The French territory of Guadeloupe consists of two (almost joined) islands, one being volcanic in origin and the other being a raised limestone seabed, offering its visitors the opportunity to explore two very different environments in one destination.
This list highlights just ten favourite travel experiences from Cuba to Trinidad, with links to relevant travel guides for further reading.
Experiences
My personal “Top 10 Caribbean Experiences” (listed in no particular order) are:
#1 – Montserrat
A view of the east coast of Montserrat with recent lava flows visible in the background.
Feel like visiting a modern-day Caribbean Pompeii? The volcanic island of Montserrat offers a very different travel experience from the usual sun, sand and beaches.
Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, tiny Montserrat (a British territory) is slowly dusting itself off after recent volcanic eruptions decimated the southern part of the island, including the capital Plymouth, covering large areas in ash, mud and other volcanic debris. Plymouth remains the capital of Montserrat, making it the only ghost town that serves as the capital of a political territory.
A sweeping view of the lush west coast of Montserrat from the Gingerbread Hill Guest House.
Volcano Tourism
While the Soufrière Hills Volcano is far from dormant, Montserrat is open for tourism and visitors are once again returning to the island that, due to its rich Irish heritage, bills itself as the ‘Emerald Isle of the Caribbean‘.
The buried capital of Plymouth, a modern-day Caribbean Pompeii.
Whilst the island has a few nice (black sand) beaches, the main draw today is ‘volcano tourism‘, with a highlight of any visit being a tour of the fascinating, abandoned capital of Plymouth, which lies entombed under many metres of volcanic debris, inside a restricted exclusion zone.
Pyroclastic flows and lahars inundated Plymouth with metres of ash, mud and rock covering the entire city.
I toured the exclusion zone with the knowledgeable and informative Sun Lea, the owner of Montserrat Island Tours. Tours can remain in the abandoned city for one hour and during that time the guide is required to maintain constant radio contact with monitoring staff at the nearby Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO).
Another requirement was that, even while walking about, the motor of our vehicle was always to be left running in case the MVO advised that we need to leave the area ASAP. Something very different form the usual Caribbean experience.
Who needs a white-sand beach? Beautiful Woodlands Bay Beach.
Musical Legacy
A photo of Paul and Linda McCartney on Montserrat.
If you’re a fan of music (who isn’t?) you might be interested in the musical legacy of Montserrat. For a period of ten years from 1979 – 1989, the island was a magnet for many famous musicians who came to record at the legendary AIR Studios Montserrat, which was created by Sir George Martin – the renown English record producer who signed The Beatles and produced every album they made until they disbanded.
Did you know Dire Straits recorded ‘Brothers in Arms‘ on tiny Montserrat? Who else recorded music on Montserrat? It’s an impressive roll-call of famous musicians, including:
Boy George
Dire Straits (who recorded ‘Brothers in Arms‘ at the studio)
The Cayman islands are all about three things: sun, sea and wealth. A British Crown Colony whose economy is based on tourism and offshore banking, the three, raised limestone islands which comprise the territory are exposed summits of the Cayman Ridge. Separating the islands is the 4.8 km (3 mi) deep Cayman Trench – which is home to the deepest point in the Caribbean sea and many incredible dive sites.
The capital and largest city, George Town, is located on the main island of Grand Cayman, which is the port of call for all cruise ships and the destination of choice for 95% of visitors. Two much smaller (and geographically very different) islands, Little Cayman and Cayman Brac, lie a short flight to the east and should not be overlooked.
On approach to Cayman Brac.
One of the highlights of a visit to Grand Cayman is Stingray City which provides tourists with the opportunity to interact with numerous Atlantic Southern stingrays, who cruise around on a shallow sandbar in the middle of the turquoise-blue waters of the Caribbean sea. This is a definite tourist trap but still a worthwhile experience.
Getting friendly with a local at Stingray city.
The two outer islands are much quieter, with Cayman Brac being a favourite nesting site for sea birds such as the Brown Booby.
The Cayman Trench passes close to the island, providing amazing scuba diving which can be arranged through Reef Divers, who operate out of the Cayman Brac Beach Resortand offer full-service ‘valet‘ diving.
What exactly is ‘valet‘ diving? Prior to entering the water, you sit yourself down on a bench at the back of the dive boat and relax while the crew fit you with all your equipment. Once done, you stand, step forward and plunge into the beautiful, crystal-clear water for which Cayman Brac is famous.
The view from Scott’s Head of the narrow isthmus that separates the fierce Atlantic and the calm Caribbean.
Known as the “Nature Island,” volcanic Dominica lies at the top of the Windward Islands, south of Guadeloupeand north of Martinique. Although a short boat ride away, Dominica is a world away from its more modern, developed French neighbours.
Kalinago culture is alive and thriving on Dominica.
The island is still home to a sizeable population of indigenous people, the Kalinago, who’ve lived on the island since the 13th century.
Trafalgar falls: Offers the option of hot water (left) or cold water (right) bathing.
Although Dominica is in the Caribbean, it is not considered a resort island and if you’re looking for all-inclusive resorts on sandy beaches this island is not for you. What the island does offer is spectacular, rugged nature. Where else can you swim in a warm-water waterfall which is adjacent to a cold-water waterfall?
For those who like snorkelling, Champagne Reef is not to be missed. Located south of the capital of Roseau, the warm, crystal clear water of the reef is infused with streams of bubbles which emanate from an underwater spring. It’s like snorkelling in a giant bottle of San Pellegrino. Magic!
Wotten Waven hot springs
At the end of a long day of hiking, what better way to relax than in one of the many hot sulphur spring baths in the mountainside village of Wotten Waven.
Hurricane Maria
In September of 2017, Dominica was devastated by Hurricane Maria. The island is slowly rebuilding and the government is keen to see tourists return. Lonely Planet recently published an update detailing which islands are ready for tourists post-hurricanes. Most guest houses and hotels are now operational and most sights are open.
Most of the coastline of Bonaire is rocky with a reef running along the entire shoreline
When your plane pulls up outside the small terminal building of Bonaire’s Flamingo International Airport (which is painted ‘Flamingo pink’) you’ll know you’ve landed somewhere special. Part of the ‘ABC islands’, tiny and quiet Bonaire is a municipality of the Netherlands, located 48-km east of Curaçaoand 140-km east of Aruba.
Sunset on Bonaire.
The island bills itself as a ‘Diver’s Paradise’ and with a colourful, onshore reef running the entire length of its protected leeward coast, the island lives up to its name. Due to the onshore reef, there are no sandy beaches on Bonaire with the nearest beach being on neighbouring Curaçao.
Caribbean Flamingo on Bonaire’s lake Gotomeer.
While the island is famous for its reef, the arid interior provides several attractions. Bonaire is famed for its Caribbean Flamingos which are drawn to the brackish salt water of the island’s lagoons. The best place to observe these graceful creatures is at Lake Gotomeer, which contains a healthy supply of brine shrimp, the main diet of Flamingos.
Did you know:
Flamingos are born with grey feathers, which gradually turn pink because of a natural pink dye called canthaxanthin that they obtain from their diet of brine shrimp.
Salt Mine on Bonaire
Looming on the horizon south of the capital, are a series of white hills which are part of the Cargillsalt mining operation. Salt mining has always been an important industry on the island. Fort Oranje was built by the Dutch in 1639 to defend the harbour, from which the main export was salt. The capital (Kralendijk) then developed around the fort.
Cactus Vodka!
Cactus vodka from the Cadushy distillery.
There are many cacti on Bonaire and one local company – The Cadushy Distillery – has figured a way to distil the spiny Kadushi Cactus into a less-than-spiny vodka, creating the world’s first cactus vodka.
Male Purple Honeycreeper at Asa Wright nature reserve
Trinidad and Tobago (TT) is a two-island country offering the visitor two completely different destinations in one and, due to the diversity of its fauna, flora and people, one of the more interesting destinations in the Caribbean.
The national bird of Trinidad & Tobago, the Scarlet Ibis, at Caroni Bird Sanctuary.
Trinidad
Nowhere is this diversity more obvious than on the main island of Trinidad, which has not always been a Caribbean island. Located just 11 km from the coast of Venezuela, Trinidad was once joined to the South American mainland and sits on the same continental shelf.
A close up view of a sleeping Tree Boa in the Caroni Bird Sanctuary.
Due to its geological history, the geography, fauna, flora and climate of Trinidad are completely indistinguishable from neighbouring Venezuela. From Howler and Capuchin monkeys to ocelots and tree boa’s, Trinidad is home to a rich variety of ‘mainland’ wildlife which can be found in the jungles of South America but not on any other Caribbean island.
Female white-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright Nature Centre.
Trinidad offers some of the best bird watching in the Caribbean, with two highlights being the Caroni Bird Sanctuary, where thousands of Scarlet Ibis roost at sunset and the Asa Wright Nature Centre. Located in the Northern mountains, the centre is one of the top bird-watching spots in the Caribbean with 159 different species having been recorded.
White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.
Tobago
Pigeon Point beach, Tobago
A short flight (or ferry ride) from Trinidad, neighbouring Tobago is much quieter and more relaxed than its bustling neighbour. The island is known for its laid-back tempo, it’s many fine beaches, rain-forest, excellent snorkelling and diving and so is a popular tourist destination.
Artwork at Saba airport, which is ranked as one of the world’s most dangerous airports.
Along with Bonaire and neighbouring St. Eustatius (Statia), this volcanic island of 1,991 souls is part of the Caribbean Netherlands. At 887 metres (2,910 ft), the summit of Saba – Mount Scenery – is the highest point within the Kingdom of the Netherlands.
Sand-less Saba is completely unique! A rugged volcanic peak which rises steeply out of the Caribbean sea, all the major infrastructure on the island was hand-built by defiant locals after they were advised by Dutch and Swiss engineers that infrastructure couldn’t be built on the impossibly steep slopes of the island.
The main settlement on Saba, Windwardside, with Mount Scenery in the background.
The one road on the island, known as “The Road”, is a 16 km ribbon of hand‐laid stone which bisects the entire island.
After engineers advised a road couldn’t be built, one local resident took a basic engineering course then starting laying out a route across the island. It took 20 years for locals to hand-cut and lay the stone with the road opening in 1958.
At about the same time, Dutch engineers also advised there was no area on Saba level enough to construct a runway.
Again, they would be proved wrong by the defiant locals. In 1959, regional aviator, Remy de Haenen performed an aerial survey of the island and identified “Flat Point” as a suitable area for a runway.
Within weeks, the locals had cleared and graded the area in preparation for a landing. De Haenen made the first landing of an aircraft on the island on February 9, 1959 with nearly the entire population of the island in attendance.
No room for pilot error at perilous Saba airport. “The Road” snakes its way from the airport across the island to Fort Bay.
Arriving and departing by plane is one of the highlights of a visit to the island – it’s both dramatic and scary. At the end of the runway are cliffs that plunge into the sea and on one side of the airport is a towering mountain, all of which present plenty of challenges for the pilots of Winair – the only airline to fly to Saba.
All flights to this tricky airport are flown by the most experienced of Winair pilots from neighbouring St. Martin and utilise special STOL (Short Take-off / Landing) aircraft.
Upon landing, the pilot jams on the breaks the instant the wheels hit the tarmac. Upon take-off, you only start climbing once you have flown off the end of the runway – a bit like a young bird being pushed out of the nest for the first time – you just have to fly!
If it all sounds too scary, you have the more sedate option of arriving by ferry from St. Martin.
A strict building code on the island ensures all buildings are painted white, with green trim and red roofs.
The main settlement of Saba is the picturesque village of Windwardside, which is located high up on the slopes of Mount Scenery at 400 metres.
The population of Windwardside is an eclectic mix of recently arrived expats (many of whom have introduced a creative flair to the island) and descendants of European migrants.
Less eclectic are the strict building codes which ensures all structures on the island sport the same white, green and red colour scheme.
Hiking trail on Saba.
While the only beach on the island consists of a tiny man-made strip of sand (adjacent to the airport), the real attractions of Saba are the extensive network of hiking trails and the incredible Scuba diving.
The only beach on Saba is man-made.
Saba is known for its unique pinnacle dive sites, created when magma pushed up through the seafloor creating underwater towers of rock which soar up to around 26-m beneath the surface.
Due to the unique underwater seascapes, diving on Saba is a unique experience. I chose to dive with Sea Saba, who I would recommend.
Jamaica is as smooth as its rums and as spicy as its Jerk – a rewarding destination for those willing to pull themselves away from the legendary beaches and venture off the beaten track.
There is much more to Jamaica than Bob Marley, quintessential tropical beaches and sunsets. The third largest island in the Caribbean (after Cuba and Hispaniola), offers an abundance of culture from Reggae music to Rastafarians, a unique cuisine in the form of ‘Jerk’, lush tropical rain forests, misty blue mountains, superb coffee, hidden waterfalls, meandering rivers, famous dark rums and so much more.
Beaches
Of the many beaches on the island, my favourite is Seven Mile beach at Negril. As the name suggests, this is a long stretch of powdery-white sand with a variety of accommodation options strung along the main road.
Seven Mile Beach, Negril.
Blue Mountains
Away from the coast, the rugged, lush-green, verdant interior is home to many spectacular sights, including the famed Blue Mountains.
Located between Kingston to the south and Port Antonio to the north, and deriving their name from the azure haze which hangs over them, the Blue Mountains are the longest mountain range in Jamaica and include some of the highest peaks in the Caribbean. The highest point is Blue Mountain Peak, at 2256-m.
Blue Mountains, home to Jamaica’s famous coffee farms
Today, the mountains are renowned as being the place where the famous Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee is cultivated.
Coffee plants were first introduced to Jamaica by a former British governor in 1728. Their cultivation started in a field near a parish in Kingston before eventually being extended into the Blue mountains where they flourished.
I travelled through the mountains in my rental car, which allowed me to stop at various cafes along the main road, where I could sample the most amazing, freshly brewed coffee.
Roasting coffee in the Blue Mountains
Waterfalls
The incredible refreshing – Dunn’s river falls.
Mountainous Jamaica is home to many wonderful waterfalls, all of which provide a refreshing escape from the heat and humidity. One of the more famous is Dunn’s River falls which are located a short drive from the north coast city of Ocho Rios.
The falls are fed by spring water, which is rich with calcium carbonate. This deposits travertine, which is a form of limestone. The falls are described as a ‘living phenomenon’ because the travertine is continuously rebuilt by the sediments in the spring water.
The falls are 55-m high and cascade gently over limestone for 180-m before emptying onto a beautiful sandy beach and into the Caribbean sea. The falls is one of the very few travertine waterfalls in the world that empties directly into the sea.
Rio Grande
Rafting the Rio Grande.
Another highlight of my trip to Jamaica was my raft trip down the Rio Grande. Located on the north coast in the parish of Portland, the Rio Grande was named when the Spanish occupied Jamaica in the 15th and 16th centuries. One of the largest rivers in Jamaica, it is today a popular destination for rafting.
The river is fed by rainwater flowing down from the Blue Mountains. The bamboo rafts, which today carry paying tourists, were originally used to transport produce, especially bananas, from the interior of the island.
The ‘rafting for fun’ craze was started by Hollywood star, Errol Flynn, who made Port Antonio his home and wanted something fun to do when his friends visited. My rafting guide was a 70-year old Rasta dude who was as cool as the flowing river water.
Discovered by Columbus on his first voyage to the Americas. Home to the oldest continuously inhabited city in the Americas and today the most popular tourist destination in the Caribbean region, the Dominican Republic is a dream destination.
There is good reason the masses flock to the Dominican Republic (DR). The country is a unique destination, offering an abundance of history, culture, charming colonial cities, white-sand beaches, excellent diving and snorkelling, unspoilt nature, soaring mountain ranges (including the highest peak in the Caribbean) and a friendly and welcoming population.
Add to this a stable political environment, good infrastructure, reliable and modern transportation options, affordable prices and a booming economy. It’s easy to see why the country is the preferred choice for so many visitors. There is something for everyone in the DR – no matter your interest or budget.
A true colonial relic – the Convent of the Dominican Order in Santo Domingo.
Santo Domingo
Santo Domingo, the capital of the Dominican Republic, was founded in 1496 by Bartholomew Columbus (the younger brother of Christopher Columbus), and has the distinction of being the oldest continuously inhabited European city in the Americas.
Interior of the first Cathedral built in the Americas – Catedral Primada de América.
The old town, known as the ‘Zona Colonial‘, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site and is a charming place to base yourself, with lots of cool and breezy, renovated colonial relics providing pleasant accommodation options and a respite from the constant heat and humidity.
The narrow streets of the old town are home to many ‘firsts’ in the Americas; the ‘first road’, the ‘first hospital’, the ‘first cathedral’, the ‘first convent’ and so on. If you enjoy immersing yourself in history and culture, Santo Domingo is an engaging destination.
Built by Bartholomew Columbus as his residence – Alcazar de Colon, Santo Domingo.
The dining and entertainment scene in the old town is one of the best in the Caribbean and is constantly evolving, with new restaurants and bars opening on a regular basis. With all this activity, there’s much to keep the visitor occupied and when you need to take a break, beautiful white-sand beaches are a short taxi ride away.
Beaches
Broad-billed Tody in the ‘Indigenous Eyes National Park’, Punta Cana.
Without a doubt, the most popular tourist destination in the Dominican Republic is Punta Cana. Located at the easternmost tip of the Dominican Republic and blessed with 32 kilometres of fine white-sand beaches, Punta Cana is the #1 tourist playground with flights arriving at its busy airport from throughout Europe, North and South America.
All this tourism has had a negative impact on the one key asset, the beach, with almost all beach-side land walled-off by large, private resorts who restrict access to their paying guests. For those staying away from the beach, the only access points are a few crowded and congested public lane-ways.
Natural springs in the ‘Indigenous Eyes National Park’, Punta Cana
One non-beach highlight in Punta Cana is the Indigenous Eyes National Park. This is a private forest reserve operated by the Punta Cana Ecological Foundation.
The reserve features walking trails, which lead you through the forest, past twelve crystal-clear, freshwater lagoons. Five of the lagoons are open to visitors for swimming, a great way to cool off on a hot day.
The lagoons are home to fish and turtles and the trails provide good bird watching opportunities and will eventually lead you onto the beach.
Stormy skies over the beach at Las Terrenas
My preferred beach experience can be found at the much quieter Las Terrenas, which is located on the north-east coast, a 3.5 hour drive north of Punta Cana.
Beach at Las Terrenas.
Las Terrenas is nestled among green hills and started life as a quiet fishing village, however it was only a matter of time before developers would exploit its fine white sand beaches.
Today the beaches are lined with hotels, restaurants and bars but there are far fewer tourists here than Punta Cana and beach access is not restricted.
Mountains
Baiguate Waterfall, Jarabacoa
While the focus of Dominican tourist brochures are the many fine beaches, the mountainous interior of the country also warrants investigation.
A centre for tourism, with lots of accommodation options, is the mountain town of Jarabacoa (525 metres above sea level) which is located a two-hour drive north-west of Santo Domingo, via an excellent highway.
The pleasant countryside around Jarabacoa is full of hiking trails which follow the course of various rivers and provide access to a number of waterfalls. For those hikers with lots of energy and enthusiasm, nearby Pico Duarte (3,087m) is the highest mountain in the Caribbean.
With an average daily temperature of 22 degrees (Celsius), the climate in Jarabacoa is cooler and less humid than the low lands, which allows local farmers to grow lots of amazing produce, including the juiciest and sweetest of strawberries.
Cuba is an enchanting destination! A country with a long and complex history and fascinating culture, the largest island in the Caribbean, which is home to the region’s largest population.
Once a favoured hedonistic destination for American celebrities and socialites, Cuba had a reputation as an exotic and permissive playground.
In the early 20th century, Cuba’s ideal tropical beaches attracted the American masses who could purchase cheap package tours from Florida, which included round-trip tickets from Miami, hotel, food and entertainment.
The island also attracted famous celebrities such as Ava Gardner, Frank Sinatra and Ernest Hemingway (who loved Cuba so much he relocated to Havana).
A propaganda painting in Havana’s ‘Museum of the Revolution’, celebrates the overthrow of former President Batista by Fidel Castro.
The party ended in 1959 when a young Fidel Castro, having overthrown the corrupt President, Fulgencio Batista, came to power, installed a communist government and promptly destroyed all symbols of the hedonistic past, including most tourist infrastructure. This effectively ended tourism in Cuba with visitor numbers plummeting from 350,000 visitor’s in 1957 to 4,000 in 1961.
School children in Havana.
Today, the country is once again open to tourism and, in 2016, it attracted a record four million tourists, many of them arriving on cruise ships, carrying US passports.
Cruise ship arrivals increased from 24 in 2012 to 139 in 2015. The Ministry of tourism has forecast more exponential growth in the coming years, all thanks to an increase in visitors from the United States.
Despite the setbacks from the current US administration, the floodgates have been opened and American tourists are once again flocking to this Caribbean jewel.
Havana
The old town in Havana is a treasure trove of Colonial architecture,
Havana is the throbbing heart of Cuba. It’s the capital city, largest city (population: 2.1 million), main aviation and maritime hub and leading commercial centre.
At its heart lies the charming Habana Vieja, the old town and the place of most interest to tourists. Within the walls of the old town, the party never stops, with Salsa music echoing from bars where you can dance 24×7 and where it’s socially acceptable to drink Mojito’s (the national drink) anytime of day.
A Florist in the old town of Havana.
With a history stretching back 500 years, the old town is a treasure trove of Colonial architecture and, after 50 years of neglect, is slowly, and carefully, being renovated. Walking the streets of the enchanting old town, you can feel the history around you – it’s a powerful place.
There are lots of classic beauties to be found on the streets of Havana.
The old town is comprised of numerous grand squares, which can best be described as jewels of colonial architecture.
Lining the squares are cathedrals, old mansions which have been converted into museum’s and galleries, shop’s, restaurant’s, cafe’s, bar’s, and always – music.
The music never stops in the old town, there’s always a band playing somewhere and there are lots of venues where you can dance salsa through the night.
Outside Havana
The colourful old town of Trinidad.
Cuba is a largely urban country, and offers many other resplendent colonial cities such as Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sancti Spíritus, Ciego De Avila, Camagüey, Holguín and Santiago de Cuba.
Parque José Martí in Cienfuegos.
Of these, my top pick would be Cienfuegos which was founded by French settlers escaping the revolution in neighbouring Haiti. The French established themselves as agricultural barons and used their wealth to construct fantastic mansions in the neoclassical style, which today makes Cienfuegos a pleasure to explore.
A classic American car parked outside Teatro Terry in downtown Cienfuegos.
Native to Bermuda – the White Tailed Tropic bird is locally known as the Long-tail.
Okay! Bermuda is not part of the Caribbean but it is an island nation in the Atlantic and located a mere 1463 km (909 miles) north-east of the Bahamas – its nearest Caribbean neighbour.
Although, in geographical terms, it’s not part of the Caribbean region, in many other respects, Bermuda has a distinctly Caribbean soul, so I’m including it in my Caribbean ‘Top 10’.
Storm approaching Horseshoe Bay Beach.
Although a British territory, approximately 60% of the population traces its heritage to the West Indies with the Caribbean connection evident in everything from the local music, cuisine and culture to the Caribbean lilt of Bermudian voices.
Despite being located well north of the Tropic of Cancer, Bermuda is kept warmer than usual thanks to the Gulf Stream. It’s all like the Caribbean – just a little to the north!
Bermuda Blues
The beaches on Bermuda can only be described as gorgeous, offering translucent waters, pink-sand and rivalling anything found in the Caribbean. The surrounding reef offers a plethora of diving and snorkelling opportunities and the rich, carefully preserved history is engaging.
Today a UNESCO world Heritage site, St. Georges served as the capital of Bermuda for the first 200 years.
St. Georges town was Bermuda’s first English settlement and served as the capital of Bermuda for its first 200 years. The colourful, mostly pedestrian, town is beautifully renovated and offers a wealth of sights for visitors to explore.
The colourful, calm, traffic-free, streets of St. Georges are a pleasure to explore.
Bermuda Shorts
How to wear Bermuda Shorts Source: “Tabs” – Authentic Bermuda Shorts
If you’re still struggling to find a reason to visit Bermuda then you simply must go as there is no other place on the planet where you can buy yourself a pair of genuine Bermuda shorts. Winston Churchill once famously quipped “The short-pant is a terrible fashion choice, unless it is from Bermuda.”
Bermuda shorts in every colour of the rainbow at ‘Tabs’ in Hamilton
Local men wear their shorts (always with matching knee-length socks) as a matter of pride. They are perfectly acceptable attire for any occasion, including business meetings and weddings!
Bermuda shorts come in a variety of colours, with red (same colour as the flag) being especially popular.
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