Author - Darren McLean

Solomon Islands Travel Guide

6 years ago

Gin-coloured waters at Fatboys Resort, Gizo.

Date Visited: September 2018

Introduction

Tourism in Solomon Islands is in its infancy. According to the Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau, the number of ‘tourists’ to the country is approximately 6,000 per year. Rugged and undeveloped, the Solomon Islands are not an easy or cheap travel destination but it does offer an abundance of rewarding travel experiences for intrepid travelers.

The Solomon Islanders are some of the friendliest people you will ever meet.

Apart from pristine nature, dazzling reefs, gin-coloured seas and a fascinating history, the real charm of the Solomon Islands are the incredibly friendly and engaging locals. The country promotes itself as The Hapi Isles and it’s no idle boast, the people are friendly, welcoming, polite and always offer the warmest of smiles. The children of SI are adorable and love posing for the camera.

So many sweet memories from the Solomon Islands.

Unfortunately, all visitors enter the Solomon Islands through the capital, Honiara, which is not the best introduction to the country. A charmless, dusty, noisy place, the best thing you can do in Honiara is take the first flight (not cheap!) to the beautiful provinces.

A volcano near Munda provides a dramatic backdrop to Roviana Lagoon.

It’s in the provinces that the real treasures of the Solomon Islands are revealed. The myriad islands in this archipelago nation remain undeveloped and untouched by tourism – emerald-coloured gems, scattered throughout turquoise-blue seas, all waiting to be explored by adventurous souls.

Location

Honiara, Solomon Islands

Located in the South Pacific, the Solomon Islands lie directly east of Papua New Guinea, 975 km north-west of Vanuatu – 1,381 km north of New Caledonia and 2,117 km north-east of Brisbane.

This archipelago nation consists of a double chain of volcanic islands and coral atolls. The country comprises most of the Solomons chain, with the exception of Buka and Bougainville, two islands at the north-western end that form an autonomous region of Papua New Guinea.

A map of the Solomon Islands painted on traditional Tapa cloth.

People

The real joy of travelling in the Solomon Islands is time spent with the friendly locals.

The 626,000 inhabitants of the Solomon Islands are predominantly Melanesian (94.5%), with a tiny Polynesian (3%), and Micronesian (1.2%) population.

A Map of Melanesia.

Historians believe that, along with Australian Aborigines, the Melanesians emigrated from Africa into southern Asia between 50,000 and 100,000 years ago. Using land bridges, which existed due to low sea levels, they eventually migrated east to Australia and Papua New Guinea (PNG), arriving there 40,000 years ago.

Children in the Solomon Islands love posing for the camera.

A further migration from PNG saw the first settlers arrive in the Solomon Islands approximately 30,000 years ago. DNA tests have shown that the Melanesians are distinctly different to Polynesians and Micronesians who it’s believed arrived in the Pacific from what is today Taiwan.

Flag

Solomon Islands Flag

The flag of the Solomon Islands consists of a blue upper triangle which represents the ocean, while a lower green triangle represents the land and the diagonal yellow stripe represents sunshine. The five white stars represent the five main island groups.

Souvenir flags of the Solomon Islands on sale in Honiara.

Currency

The colourful Solomon Islands dollar.

The currency of the Solomon Islands is the Solomon Islands dollar (SI$). Bank notes are issued in denominations of SI$5, 10, 20, 50 and 100,

The Solomon Islands $5 bank note.

Current exchange rates (October 2018):

US$1 = SI$7.86
AUD$1 = SI$5.59

To commemorate 40 years of independence in 2018, the Central Bank of the Solomon Islands commissioned a special, limited edition (100,000 notes) SI$40 polymer note which was designed and printed by De La Rue of the UK. The bank advised me that they plan to eventually convert all notes to polymer.

A limited edition $40 polymer bank note was released to commemorate 40 years of independence in 2018.

Philately

The stamps of the Solomon Islands often feature local marine life.

The stamps of the Solomon Islands can be purchased from the Philatelic counter, inside the main post office in Honiara. The website of Solomon Islands Post contains a link to their Lithuanian-based stamp printer’s online shop, from which you can purchase SI stamps online.

Solomon Islands stamps are produced in Lithuania by Stamperija and can be purchased from their online store.

Internet Speeds

Solomon Islands Blues – blue because there is no undersea internet cable.

Internet speeds in the Solomon Islands are some of the slowest in the Pacific region, all due to the fact that the country is yet to be connected to the outside world via an undersea internet cable.

The Chinese company Huawei offered to fund a cable, connecting Honiara to Sydney but the Australian government, sighting national security concerns, didn’t like the idea of a Chinese company connecting anything to Australia.

In June of 2018, the Australian government announced that it would fund and build the cable. So far work has yet to commence and in the meantime you can expect internet speeds of around a cracking 300 kbps.

Sightseeing

Artwork at the Solomon Islands Art Gallery in Honiara.

Guadalcanal

Honiara

Craft shop at the Solomon Islands Museum in Honiara.

With a population of 56,298, Honiara is the largest city in the country with a few sights of interest. The city is located on the waterfront but has its back firmly turned against it. Instead, the focus of the town lies one block inland where drab, cheap, Chinese shops line the dusty, pot-holed, congested main road – Mendana avenue.

Around Town

The Solomon Islands National Museum in Honiara.

Located downtown on Mendana avenue, the Solomon Islands National Museum complex consists of three buildings and a gift shop.

The RAMSI Mission exhibition at the National Museum.

The newest exhibition details the RAMSI mission from the recent political troubles. The other two older buildings provide an overview of the history and culture of the Solomon Islands and, if you’re heading out into the provinces, provides good background information on what you can expect to see and experience.

Local artist ‘Pollo’ explaining his works at the Art Gallery in Honiara.

Across the road from the museum, the Solomon Islands Art Gallery showcases art from local artists with most pieces available for purchase. At the time of my visit, work was being completed on the grounds with a series of new shops about to open which would house the numerous crafts stands which line the dusty footpath outside.

One of the many craft shops outside the Art Gallery of Honiara.

At the other end of Mendana avenue, the Honiara Central Market features produce from around the island. If you wish to sample some cheap, local fare, there are food stalls at the back where you can mix-it-up with the locals.

The relaxing Memorial Garden is adjacent to the airport terminal.

Next to the airport terminal is the small Honiara Memorial Garden, which honours US forces and their Pacific islander allies.

WWII History

The Guadalcanal American Memorial in Honiara.

Located on a remote hilltop on the outskirts of town, overlooking the suburbs of Honiara, is the impressive (and free) Guadalcanal American Memorial. This informative and interesting memorial is maintained by the American Battle Monuments Commission, which maintains US memorials and cemeteries in 15 different countries.

Dedicated to American and Allied troops who lost their lives during the Guadalcanal campaign, the memorial is built on Hill ’72’ which was a former WWII battle site. Details of the six key battles which took place between the US and Japanese during the campaign are etched into giant granite panels.

The open-air displays at the Vilu War Museum are slowly succumbing to the elements.

Guadalcanal was a major WWII battle sight between the Americans and the Japanese. Tours of battle sites and relics can be organised through Travel Solomons whose office is located downtown close to the museum.

One of the sights they include on their trips is the Vilu War Museum, which at SI$100 is not cheap. I made my own way to the museum in my Toyota RAV4, but of course got a little lost since there is no signage anywhere and the museum is located in the middle of the bush at the end of an overgrown dirt track, 24 km west of Honiara. Some helpful locals put me back on course!

Displays at the Vilu War Museum.

The museum features a collection of WWII relics (both US and Japanese) from planes to tanks to anti-aircraft guns which are arranged in an outdoor garden setting. The collection was accumulated by the late father of the current proprietor but the tropical weather is slowly taking its toll on the machinery, all of which is exposed to the elements.

Scuba Diving

With all the fighting that took place on Guadalcanal during WWII, the waters around the island are home to some impressive wrecks. Tulagi Dive organises dives from their dive shop, which is located next to the Point Cruz Yacht Club in downtown Honiara.

Carved masks, such as this one in Honiara, are popular souvenirs.

Western Province

Colourful woven bags make ideal souvenirs.

Munda

Young boy in Munda.

Scuba Diving

Dive Munda – possibly my favourite dive operation in the whole world!

There’s just one reason people flock to Magical Munda – the sublime Scuba Diving. It’s still a well-kept secret that the Solomons Islands offers some of the best scuba diving in the South Pacific and Munda is the place to experience the incredible underwater wonders of this off-the-beaten-track dive destination.

The team at Dive Munda (l-r) Jeno, myself, Euna, Belinda and Sunga.

Munda was a major battleground during WWII and the turquoise-coloured waters of the stunning Roviana Lagoon are littered with interesting wrecks from ships to downed fighter planes. The reefs around Munda are in pristine condition with an incredible amount of lush hard and soft corals and massive Elephant Ear sponges. Marine life is abundant with sight names such as ‘Shark Point‘ offering a hint of what lies below.

The two amazing local divemaster’s from Dive Munda, (l-r) Euna and Jeno.

Dive Munda is the only dive shop in town and is conveniently located inside the only hotel in Munda, the Agnes Gateway Hotel. Dive Munda is owned and operated by the enthusiastic, energetic, charming and engaging Belinda Botha who is a South African native who now calls Munda home.

The Dive Munda team (l-r), Sunga, Jeno and Euna made a beautiful flowery lei during our surface interval.

Belinda is a tour-de-force who has become Munda’s #1 fan and promoter and it’s leading environmental champion. She has employed an incredibly capable team of locals who are the dive masters, boat captain and (during surface intervals on remote islands) flowery-lei makers. They are a truly talented bunch and I loved spending time with them. Some of the best dive memories ever!

On our way to dive ‘Shark Point’.

Dive Munda offers in excess of 30 dive sites in and around Munda, with one of my favourites being ‘Alice in Wonderland’ which starts with a decent to 14 metres to view an upturned F4F-4 Wildcat – a US fighter jet which was shot down by Japanese fire. This wreck was only recently discovered and is in pristine condition.

Sea gulls flying over Roviana Lagoon at Munda.

The beautiful aspect of diving in Munda is that Dive Munda has all these amazing sights to itself. There are never any other groups on a dive site, never any other boats around. The sites are all yours to explore in peace. Magic!

Surface intervals with Dive Munda are always on uninhabited islands which feature wild orchids among other flora.

WWII History

Barney explaining Munda’s WWII history at his museum.

In between dives, there’s plenty to occupy your time on land. Munda has a wealth of fascinating WWII history which can easily be explored on foot. The best place to gain an understanding of Munda’s involvement in WWII is at the Peter Joseph WWII Museum which has been created by the knowledgeable Barney, who is the closest thing to a WWII Historian in these parts.

Some of the many Dog Tags found by Barney over the years.

The museum (SI$50) is housed in a shed in Barney’s front garden and is comprised of Barney’s vast, personal collection of WWII relics and memorabilia which he has accumulated over the years.

An article from an American newspaper tells of the return of missing Dog Tags from Barney’s collection to the original owner.

Barney has found many lost Dog Tags over the years, some of which have been reunited with their very grateful owners. There’s no signage for the museum but it’s located behind the only playing field in town.

Japanese anti-aircraft guns make for the coolest garden furniture at this Munda home.

Scattered around Munda are countless WWII relics and dumps. The front garden of one house features two Japanese anti-aircraft guns which remain where the Japanese left them when they fled from the Americans. And you thought your garden furniture was cool!

No shortage of smiles in Munda.

At the rear of the same house, just beyond the clothes line, is an overgrown WWII dump where US landing boats have been piled up.

Dumped US landing boats piled up in someone’s backyard.

Elsewhere anti-aircraft guns, tanks and other equipment can be found lying where it was left when troops departed after the war.

A WWII relic lies where it was left behind a house in Munda.

One of the more interesting sites is an old concrete bunker which was constructed by the US as an ammunition store. Today it houses a collection of WWII relics which have been collected by the traditional landowners.

A former US ammunition store in Munda houses one family’s collection of WWII relics.

Gizo

A seller at Gizo market.

Located a short boat ride from Munda is the regional centre of Gizo, the second largest town in the Solomon Islands, which can be covered on foot in under 10 minutes. The attractions of Gizo are limited to the Central market but the real attractions are offshore on the myriad islands which are a short boat ride away.

Produce at Gizo market.

Babanga Island

A view of paradise from Fatboys Resort.

Located 15 minutes by boat from Gizo, Babanga Island is surrounded by the most amazing gin-coloured waters. It’s here you’ll find the wonderful island getaway that is Fatboys Resort.

The view from the restaurant at Fatboys Resort with Kennedy Island in the background.

Fatboys offer five waterfront bungalows and an over-water bar/ restaurant. I visited as a day tripper from Gizo, which is not a problem provided you eat lunch in their restaurant, which is highly recommended as the fresh fish is divine. The snorkeling is incredible with a huge amount of marine life, including the occasional cruising black-tip reef shark. Fantastic!

Kennedy Island

The beach at Kennedy Island.

Kennedy Island is a small island located 15 minutes by boat from Gizo, directly opposite Fatboys Resort.

The island is named after then Lieutenant John F. Kennedy, who in August 1943 swam to the island with his crew of the PT-109 after their boat was rammed and wrecked by the Japanese destroyer, Amagiri. Two American sailors died in the incident. Kennedy later had the crew swim to the larger Olasana Island where they were eventually rescued.

The bar on Kennedy Island only ever gets busy when a cruise ship is in town.

Today, Kennedy island is home to a bar which is owned by Hotel Gizo who charge a SI$50 landing fee, which includes a complimentary drink. At the time of my visit, I had the island to myself.

Despite the fact that he bit me, I’m sure Kennedy and I would have become great friends eventually!

The only inhabitants on the island are the friendly caretaker, his wife and a semi-tamed Yellow-Bibbled Lory, fittingly named ‘Kennedy’. Kennedy has the island to himself and can be found flying among the many trees – but packs quite a bite if you get too close.

‘Kennedy’ is a cheeky Yellow-Bibbled Lory.

Accommodation

Accommodation options are limited in the Solomon Islands with many towns offering just one or two guest houses. In Honiara, the capital and largest city, you’ll find just six hotels listed on booking.com, most of which are old and in need of renovation and score low with reviewers. The exception to this is the flashy, new kid on the block, the Coral Sea Resort.

In Gizo, the second largest town in the country, there is one hotel and one lodge and in popular Munda there is one main accommodation option. This lack of competition is never going to be good for travelers with properties able to charge higher rates due to a lack of choice and under no pressure to improve their offering.

Honiara

Coral Sea Resort

My beautiful room at the Coral Sea Resort, which offers the highest standard of accommodation in the Solomon Islands.

Without a doubt, the flashiest hotel in Honiara and the most deluxe hotel anywhere in the Solomon Islands is the very new and wonderful Coral Sea Resort. Managed by a team of Australians, the hotel is located downtown on the waterfront, and features a swimming pool, casino, two restaurants with bars which are always lively with both tourists and visiting businessmen.

The hotel offers five different room types with a new wing currently under construction. Current rates on booking.com range from US$160 to US$350 with all rooms including breakfast. I stayed here on my first night in town and thoroughly enjoyed it – but then I awoke in the morning and remembered my travel budget!

Solomon Kitano Mendana Hotel

The Solomon Kitano Mendana Hotel is part of the Japanese Kitano group which is great news for no other reason than the hotel is home to a fantastic Japanese restaurant (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more details).

The hotel is a solid Japanese construction with spacious rooms, some of which have recently been renovated while others are very dated. Current rates on booking.com range from US$142 – US$363 per night.

Access Units

Apartments at ‘Access Units’ are very spacious and comfortable – a real home away from home.

Located close to the airport, Access Units on Ramsi street is a block of secure, self-contained, modern, spacious apartments which can be booked through Airbnb.com. Airport transfers are provided free of charge and a free ‘wash and fold’ laundry service is included in the rate as is a selection of free provisions in the kitchen.

Due to its remote location on the outskirts of town, it’s best suited to guests who have their own transport. If you wish to rent a car, the owners (John and Zima) have a reliable Toyota RAV4 which they rent to guests.

The nearest public transport are the mini buses (SI$5 to town) that shuttle along the main highway, a 1.5 km walk from the apartments. Buses run during daylight hours only so a taxi is required after hours, with the fare costing SI$100 from the city.

Munda

Agnes Gateway Hotel

My room at Agnes Gateway Hotel in Munda.

There’s just one main accommodation option in tiny Munda – Agnes Gateway Hotel. Located a short walk from the airport and overlooking the beautiful Roviana Lagoon, Agnes offers a variety of accommodation options to suit all budgets. There is no other competition in town and their rates reflect that fact, with a bunk bed in a dorm costing US$43 and a deluxe room costing US$121. I stayed in both a budget room (old and tired) and deluxe room (much nicer) and would recommend spending the extra money for the deluxe experience.

The food and service at Agnes are very good and I would recommend it as a fine place to stay while in Munda, especially since it’s really the only place to stay. Some new competition in town would be good!

If you’re diving with the amazing Belinda and team from Dive Munda, Agnes Lodge is the best place to stay as the dive shop is located at the lodge.

Gizo

Rekona Lodge

A ‘no-frills’ budget room at Rekona Lodge.

Rekona Lodge was my accommodation choice while in Gizo and I would recommend this over the Gizo hotel. Located in a quiet backstreet, this lodge has a variety of rooms to suit all budgets. Their basic, budget room with shared bathroom costs US$35 while the same room with private bathroom costs US$50. Their deluxe rooms are the best in town (better than anything I saw at Hotel Gizo) and cost US$96.

Worth paying more for a deluxe room at Rekona Lodge.

Gizo Hotel

The Gizo Hotel is the only hotel in Gizo and, at the time of my visit, had no running water in the bathrooms.

Located opposite Gizo wharf, the Gizo Hotel is the only place in town which calls itself a ‘hotel’. This is the sister property of the King Solomon Hotel in Honiara, offering 51 rooms on two levels (although at the time of my visit the upstairs rooms had no running water) with rates ranging from US$87 – $100.

The hotel has the best restaurant in town (there is only one other) and features lively traditional dance shows on certain evenings. The wood-fired pizzas in the evening are excellent!

Fatboys Resort

All bungalows at Fatboys Resort face the spectacular reef.

Fatboys Resort overlooks the gin-coloured waters of Babanga Island which offers incredible snorkeling. The resort is a 15-minute boat ride from Gizo and offers 5 bungalows, all of which offer uninterrupted views over the stunning lagoon.

Bungalows cost around US$244 for a one night stay with cheaper rates for longer stays. The bar and restaurant are situated 100 metres out over the sparkling waters and serves wonderful local seafood and ice-cold drinks. Day visitors are welcome and the resort can organise a boat to collect you from Gizo.

Eating Out

Dining out is not an option for struggling locals so there are few restaurants in the Solomon Islands with most being located inside the various hotels. As for cafés, there are just two in the country, both of which are located in downtown Honiara.

Honiara

Cafés

With many locals earning a weekly salary of between SI$200 and SI$400, it’s not surprising that few venture into a cafe to pay SI$30 for a cappuccino. The two cafés in Honiara are the domain of tourists, expats and the wealthy elite. Both open early in the morning and close early in the afternoon.

Located across the road from the museum and next door to the art gallery, the sparkling clean, air-conditioned Breakwater Cafe is the perfect retreat from the heat, humidity and dust of Honiara. The cafe opens its doors early, serving a very good breakfast (until 9:30 am) then a wonderful lunch menu, before closing its doors promptly at 3:00 pm. The coffee is wonderful as is the selection of cakes – including the giant-size, freshly made Lamingtons! Wi-Fi is not available.

Coral Sea Resort

The best dining options in Honiara are at the brand new Coral Sea Resort, which offers two superb restaurants. Haydn’s Steakhouse is the main restaurant, which starts the day serving a wonderful breakfast menu and perfect coffee prepared by trained baristas. For lunch and dinner, the menu includes a choice of Australian and European cuisine.

The other dining option is The Boardwalk which specialises in South-East Asian street food, with an emphasis on Malaysian mamak food. Located at the waterfront bar, this restaurant is more casual than Haydn’s.

Solomon Kitano Mendana Hotel

This Japanese-owned hotel is home to the wonderful ‘Hakubai’, the best Japanese restaurant in the Solomons. If you’re in the mood for some fine sashimi, sushi or ramen, you’ll satisfy your cravings at this excellent establishment, which feels like it has been transported straight from Tokyo.

Opposite Hakubai is the restaurant ‘Capitana‘, which serves more traditional fare including fresh local fish, seafood and pizzas. They offer a buffet dinner every Wednesday evening.

King Solomon Hotel

Hidden away in a downtown backstreet, the sprawling King Solomon Hotel is renowned for its wood-fired pizzas which are prepared in an outdoor clay oven. Traditional Polynesian dancing is offered on certain evenings and the popular and lively bar is a good place to meet expats and enjoy a cold Sol Brew.

Munda

There is just one restaurant in Munda, which can be found inside the only hotel in town, the Agnes Gateway Hotel. Open from early morning to late evening, the waterfront restaurant offers wonderful breakfasts and generous portions of fresh, local fish for lunch and dinner. Apart from local seafood, their hamburger ‘with the works‘ is very popular.

Gizo

There are two restaurant options in town, with the restaurant at the Gizo Hotel being the more popular. Open from early morning, this is the only place in town serving breakfast. Being the sister property of the King Solomon Hotel in Honiara, the Gizo Hotel also serves excellent wood-fired pizza in the evenings.

The other dining option is PT-109 which is a 5 minute walk along the main street from the Gizo Hotel. This is a family run restaurant which serves local cuisine in a casual waterfront setting.

Visa Requirements

Solomon Islands Passport Stamps.

Nationals of all countries in the Schengen Area, Israel and the UAE may enter the Solomon Islands visa-free for up to 90 days within a 180-day period. Forty-four other nationalities are entitled to a stay of 3 months in a 12-month period. To check your requirement, you should consult the current Visa Policy of the Solomon Islands.

Getting There

Arriving at Honiara International Airport.

Air

All international flights arrive at Honiara International Airport, which is located 8 kilometres (5 miles) west of downtown. The airport is the hub for Solomon Airlines, whose fleet consists of five planes – one Airbus A320 (used for international services), and their domestic fleet of three Twin Otters and one Dash-8.

Solomon Airlines’ sole international jet, its Airbus A320.

The following airlines provide services to/ from Honiara:

Air Niugini – flies to/ from Nadi, Port Moresby
Fiji Airways – flies to/ from Nadi, Port Vila
Nauru Airlines – flies to/ from Brisbane, Nauru
Solomon Airlines – flies to/ from Afutara, Arona, Atoifi, Auki, Bellona, Brisbane, Fera, Gizo, Kagau, Kirakira, Marau, Nadi, Port Vila, Ramata, Seghe, Suavanao, Sydney, Tarawa
Virgin Australia – flies to/ from Brisbane

Airport Transport

Although the airport is just 8 km from downtown, the one lane highway is often congested, with drivers serving to avoid the numerous deep potholes. The Japanese government is currently funding a project to upgrade the highway but in the meantime, it can take up to an hour to reach downtown if you get stuck in the morning rush hour.

Brisbane to Munda Direct

Solomon Airways have announced the commencement of direct flights from Brisbane to tiny Munda, starting on the 27th of October 2018.

Flying over the Roviana Lagoon on approach to Munda.

Sea

The Solomon islands are not a standard destination for Pacific cruise ships, however some ships call at Honiara and Gizo.

Honiara – Fifteen cruise ship arrivals are scheduled for Honiara in 2019.
Gizo – Three cruise ship arrivals are scheduled for Gizo in 2018.

Getting Around

Boarding my Solomon Airways flight from Honiara to Munda.

Air

Domestic flights are operated by Solomon Airlines, who offer services to 20 regional centres in various provinces. All flights have a baggage limit of 16 kg (35 lbs), although I never saw this being enforced.

Solomon Airlines operate in a monopoly environment and, like all good monopoly carriers, their ticket prices can only be described as extortionate. Airfares on the airlines’ website are quoted in Australian dollars (AUD$) with flights sold in one way segments. The cost of a one way ticket from Honiara to Munda (55 mins) is currently AUD$300 (USD$213).

Nusatupe airport in Gizo is built on its own island, requiring a boat transfer across a sometimes rough channel to Gizo.

The 4 planes which comprise the domestic fleet fly at 2000 m (6500 ft), providing spectacular views of the islands and lagoons. Despite the high prices, seats are limited and flights can be heavily booked so it’s best to book in advance.

Departing Gizo for Honiara with Solomon Airways.

Intra-Island Ferry

Intra-island ferries are the only mode of transport available to locals who could only ever dream of being able to afford a ticket on Solomon Airlines. Daily passenger ferries currently serve Auki (Malaita) while a weekly passenger ferry serves the Western Province towns of Noro (for Munda) and Gizo.

To Noro (for Munda) and Gizo, the MV Anjeanette departs Honiara for Gizo on Saturday evening, and departs from Gizo to Honiara on Monday.

All other provinces are served by less comfortable cargo ferries which make lots of stops along the way. Ferries to most places depart Honiara at least weekly while departures to the more remote Santa Cruz Islands are every two weeks.

Local Taxi Boats

Shared Banana boats, the local taxis, depart from Gizo for nearby, and more distant, villages.

Due to a complete absence of roads in many parts of the country, local shared taxi boats are used to access many towns and villages.

Public Transport

Mini buses operate from the main market in Honiara, charging SI$3 for a short drop and SI$5 for a long drop (e.g. to the Airport).

Taxi

Taxis in Gizo.

Taxis in Honiara are un-metered but charge SI$10 per kilometre with a trip to/ from the airport costing SI$100. Taxis can be found outside the International terminal or can be hailed on the street or booked through any hotel.

Rental Car

License plate of my rental car.

There are several car rental agents in Honiara, most of whom charge around SI$450-500 per day for a compact car. One such operator is Paradise Motors who are located on the main road towards the airport.

Roads on Guadalcanal are heavily pot-holed and best suited to high clearance vehicles.

I rented a Toyota RAV4 through my accommodation provider at Access Units (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section for more details). The roads on Guadalcanal are very rough and require a vehicle with high clearance and 4WD capability.

That’s the end of my Solomon Islands Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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New Caledonia Travel Guide

6 years ago

Darren McLean

New Caledonia Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel New Caledonia Travel Guide!

Date Visited: August 2018

Introduction

The very French territory of New Caledonia offers a blend of Parisian chic, style and sophisticated ambience, mixed with laid-back Melanesian charm.

Due to its large French expat community, New Caledonia, and especially Nouméa, has a distinctly continental feel, especially in the ritzy beach side neighbourhoods of Baie des Citrons and Anse Vata, which feel more French Riviera than Pacific seaside.

The ‘Heart of Voh’ is a naturally occurring heart-shaped bog inside a mangrove swamp.

New Caledonia is uniquely classified as a “special collectivity of France” and while not a cheap destination, the territory offers many varied and rewarding travel experiences, both on the mainland and the smaller outer islands.

While many visitors choose to spend their time soaking up the agreeable atmosphere of the capital, there are a wealth of fascinating sights elsewhere which can easily be visited with a rental car.

La Grande Terre is an island of stark contrasts.

The main island and mainland, La Grande Terre, is a 400 km long, narrow slither of land which was formerly part of Australia (believed to have separated roughly 66 million years ago).

As a visiting Australian, I was often struck by the similarities in landscapes between New Caledonia and Australia. From the arid, red-earth expanses of Le Grand Sud (Great South region), which has a distinctly outback look and feel, to the green hills of the central agricultural belt, to the groves of paperbark and gum trees which line the highways – New Caledonia looks and feels like Australia!

The stunningly beautiful Kuto Bay, a highlight of the Isle of Pines.

South of the main island is the picturesque Isles of Pines, a popular tourist playground famed for its stunning white-sand beaches and towering Araucaria pine trees.

Nickel on display at the Maritime museum in Noumea.

New Caledonia is home to 10 percent of the world’s nickel deposits. As a result, nickel processing is the most important sector of the economy, and is the main source of revenue for New Caledonia.

Historic St. Louis church is located on a hill, on the outskirts of Noumea.

This, combined with annual fiscal transfers of more than one billion US dollars from the French government, have meant that the territory has never had to rely on tourism. However times are changing and tourism is now becoming more important to the economy, and the government – through New Caledonia Tourism – is actively promoting this magical corner of the South Pacific.

A hand-painted sarong showing traditional Kanak motifs.

I thoroughly enjoyed my time in New Caledonia and cannot wait to return to explore the Loyalty Islands and enjoy more fine French pastries at my favourite Nouméa pâtisseries.

Location

Noumea, New Caledonia

New Caledonia is located in the South Pacific – 1,210 km (750 miles) east of Australia, 630 km (392 miles) south of Vanuatu, 4,715 km (2,930 miles) west of French Polynesia and 20,000 km (12,000 miles) from France.

The territory is an archipelago, which is comprised of the main island of La Grande Terre, the Loyalty Islands to east, the Belep archipelago to the north and the Isle of Pines to the south.

People

Artwork depicting the faces of New Caledonia at the Museum of New Caledonia.

The Kanak are the indigenous Melanesian inhabitants of New Caledonia and today comprise 40% of the population. Historians believe that, along with Australian Aborigines, the Melanesians emigrated from Africa into southern Asia between 50,000 and 100,000 years ago.

A map of the Melanesian region of the Pacific Ocean.
Source: Wikipedia

Using land bridges, which existed due to low sea levels, the Melanesians eventually migrated east to Australia and New Guinea, arriving there 40,000 years ago.

A traditional Kanak wood carving.

A further migration into the eastern islands of Melanesia (including New Caledonia) came much later, probably between 4000 B.C. and 3000 B.C.

DNA tests have shown that the Melanesians are distinctly different to Polynesians and Micronesians who it’s believed arrived in the Pacific from what is today Taiwan.

The phallus is of symbolic importance in the Kanak culture and today a popular souvenir item.

Since colonial times, immigrants have arrived from metropolitan France and various other francophone colonies. Of the current population of 278,000, two-thirds live in the greater Noumea area.

Flag

The flag of New Caledonia.

Until 2010, the French flag was the only flag flown in New Caledonia. However, in July of that year, the Congress of New Caledonia voted in favour of a motion to fly the Kanak flag alongside the French tricolor.

The Kanak flag has flown alongside the French flag since 2010.

The flag in use today features a blue horizontal band which symbolizes both the sky and the ocean surrounding New Caledonia. The red symbolises the blood shed by the Kanaks in their struggle for independence while the green symbolises the land.

At its centre, the yellow disc is a representation of the sun and the symbol upon it consists of a flèche faitière, a kind of arrow that adorns the roofs of Kanak houses.

Currency

The Pacific Franc is used in the French Pacific territories of New Caledonia, French Polynesia and Wallis and Fortuna.

The unit of currency in New Caledonia is the cours de franc Pacifique (CFP), which is referred to as the ‘Pacific franc’. Financial institutions abbreviate the currency “XPF“, but in this guide I use the locally used abbreviation – ‘CFP‘. The same currency is used in the other French Pacific territories of French Polynesia and Wallis and Futuna.

The franc is pegged to the euro at a rate of 1 Euro = 119.33 CFP ($1USD = 103.60 CFP).

‘1000 Pacific Franc’ bank notes.

Costs

Not cheap!

I met few budget travelers in New Caledonia, although, if you don’t mind camping and hitchhiking you could keep costs down. To really enjoy New Caledonia you should have a well-endowed bank account!

Some sample costs:

Coca Cola (0.33 litre): 350 CFP (US$3.35)
Cappuccino/ Cafe Latte: 500 CFP (US$4.82)
Domestic Beer (.5 litre): 725 CFP (US$7.00)
Combo meal at McDonalds: 1,150 CFP (US$11.10)
Entrée in a restaurant: 1,500-1,800 CFP (US$14.50 – $17.40)
Main course in a restaurant: 2,800+ CFP (US$27.00 +)
One-way shuttle bus from La Tontouta airport to downtown Noumea: 3,000 CFP (US$29.00)
Dorm bed at a backpackers in Nouméa: 1,900 CFP (US$18.40)
Room in the mid-range ‘Hotel Beaurivage’ in Nouméa: 8,000 CFP (US$77)
Room in the top-end ‘Hilton Hotel’ in Nouméa’: 19,000 CFP (US$185)

The Great Telco Robbery

While on the subject of costs, it’s worth mentioning that New Caledonia has just one monopoly telco provider whose extortionate charges reflect their monopoly pricing power.

Mobilis by OPT charge high rates for everything – including 3,195F (US$31.00) just to purchase a SIM card!

All SIM cards have a minimum contract period of 6 months, rendering them useless for tourists. One tourist package exists which costs 6195 CFP and includes just 3000 CFP of credit, which is valid for 90 days. Call and data charges are high and if staying in the country more than a week, you will find it necessary to top-up.

VoIP calls through popular applications such as Skype, WhatsApp or Viber are blocked, although I found I could make these calls if I connected to my hotel Wi-Fi.

Philately

Postal services in New Caledonia are provided by Office des Postes et Télécommunications (OPT).

Postal services are provided in New Caledonia by the Office des Postes et Télécommunications (OPT), who produce colourful local stamps featuring the fauna, flora and culture of New Caledonia.

Stamps on sale at Calédoscope, the OPT philatelic shop in downtown Noumea.

Stamps are popular with philatelists around the world and can be purchased directly from Calédoscope, a dedicated philatelic shop in downtown Nouméa, or online from the OPT website.

Stamp artwork from New Caledonia often features the colourful fauna and flora found throughout the archipelago.

Sightseeing

La Grande Terre

The Lagoon which surrounds La Grande Terre is the longest continuous barrier reef in the world and is UNESCO World-Heritage listed.

Measuring 400 km in length, La Grande Terre is the mainland of New Caledonia. Surrounded by a UNESCO-World Heritage listed lagoon, the longest continuous barrier reef in the world and the second largest after the Great Barrier Reef of Australia, the lagoon offers diving, snorkeling, abundant marine-life, pristine reefs, whale watching, one spectacular blue hole and lots of beautiful beaches.

The reef which surrounds La Grande Terre is the second largest in the world, after the Great Barrier Reef of Australia.

The sparsely populated east coast is characterised by towering, rugged mountains which plunge into the sea, while the west coast offers gentle plains and green, rolling hills and is the agricultural heartland of the country.

Exploring the Le Grand Sud region in my rental car.

Directly east of Nouméa is the spectacularly beautiful Le Grand Sud (The Great South) region, which looks like a slice of outback Australia which has been transplanted into the South Pacific. The sites of Le Grand Sud can easily be covered on a day-trip from Nouméa.

Nouméa

Street art in downtown Noumea.

With a population of 97,500, Nouméa is the largest city and capital of New Caledonia. Home to a large French expat population and known for its French influences from ritzy boutiques, fine dining restaurants, pâtisseries, boulangeries and cafés, the city feels like an outpost of France in the South Pacific.

Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Centre

A display at the Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Centre in Nouméa.

Opened in 1998, the magnificent Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Centre, was designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano who incorporated Kanak design elements into the construction of the buildings.

The centre houses a number of galleries and uses a variety of artistic mediums to celebrate the cultural heritage of the indigenous Kanak people. Highly recommended!

St. Joseph Cathedral

St. Joseph Cathedral in Noumea.

This Roman Catholic church dominates the city skyline from its hilltop position above town. Built between 1887 – 1897 in the neo-Gothic style, the two 25 metre tall towers do not have spires, which is an anticyclone design feature.

The interior of St. Joseph’s Cathedral in Noumea.

Museum of New Caledonia

A display of Kanak artefacts at the Musée de Nouvelle-Calédonie (Museum of New Caledonia) in Nouméa.

The Musée de Nouvelle-Calédonie, which was founded in 1893, houses an extensive display of regional ethnography & visual arts. The museum includes displays of indigenous cultures and artefacts from the wider Pacific region.

Maritime Museum of New Caledonia

A display at the Maritime Museum of New Caledonia in Nouméa.

The engaging Musée maritime de Nouvelle-Calédonie is located opposite the Noumea container terminal, in a building that was formerly a maritime station.

The museum exhibits trace local maritime history from the first indigenous settlers, who reached New Caledonia in traditional canoes, to the arrival of Europeans, to the Pacific War, and the American presence in the territory during the WWII.

World War II Museum

Displays at the World War II Museum in Noumea.

The Musée de la Seconde Guerre Mondiale is housed inside a modern replica of a corrugated iron Quonset hut (the prefabricated building of choice used by the US Military during the Pacific war).

New Caledonia was essential to the United States’ prosecution of the Pacific war and the displays outline how the local population turned their backs on the far-off French (Vichy) regime and threw their support behind the Americans.

As a result of the American presence on the island during the war, local Kanaks started to agitate for independence from France, a movement which is still ongoing today.

Museum of the City of Nouméa

Displays at the Museum of the City of Noumea.

Located downtown on Place des Cocotiers, the Musée de la Ville de Nouméa is housed inside a charming colonial mansion which was originally the head office of the first bank established in the territory. Today, the museum features exhibits on three floors, which trace the history of Nouméa.

Place des Cocotiers

The Kiosque à Musique at Place des Cocotiers in Noumea.

Located in the heart of the city, Place des Cocotiers is the main square of Noumea.

Situated at the northern end of the square, the Kiosque à Musique is a pretty wooden rotunda which was constructed in 1878 from funds raised by the Union of Transportation Workers and today serves as a popular place for locals to relax and is also the venue for occasional concerts.

Baie des Citrons

Baie des Citrons is one of the most popular beaches in Noumea.

A popular, busy beachside suburb, Baie des Citrons (Lemon Bay) is located a short drive south of downtown Noumea. This is one big playground which draws those looking to swim, exercise, picnic.

Lining the beach is the largest collection of restaurants, bars and hotels in Noumea, making Lemon bay the liveliest neighbourhood in the capital.

The sweeping Baie des Citrons is a popular recreation area in Noumea.

The best news, a highly recommended mid-range hotel is located in the heart of this neighbourhood (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below for more details).

Anse Vata

Anse Vata beach is popular with locals and tourists and is home to many hotels, restaurants and cafes.

A short stroll from Baie des Citrons, Anse Vata is a popular tourist hub. Framed by a wide, sandy, swimming beach, Anse Vata is home to numerous restaurants, cafés ,ice-cream shops, bars, boutiques and everything else a tourist might need while on holiday.

Amédée Island

The 56-metre high Amédée Lighthouse soars above the island of the same name.

Located 24 kilometres offshore of Nouméa, this tiny slice of paradise is home to the Amédée Lighthouse, the tallest metal lighthouse in the world.

The spiral staircase which climbs 56 metres to the top of Amédée Lighthouse.

At 56 metres tall, le Phare Amédée (Amédée Lighthouse) is one of the tallest lighthouses in the world. It was constructed from iron panels in Paris in 1862, then dismantled and shipped in crates to New Caledonia where it was re-assembled on the island.

A panoramic view from the top of Amédée Lighthouse.

A spiral staircase winds its way to the top from where you have panoramic views of the island and beyond.

Amédée Island is a nesting site for the highly venomous “Tricots Rayé” (Striped Sea Snake).

Amédée Island is a favourite nesting site for the Tricots Rayé, the Banded sea snake. Although highly venomous, their mouths are tiny and as such they are unable to bite a human. They are also very shy and will give you a wide berth.

A panoramic view from the top of Amédée Lighthouse shows the reef which surrounds the island.

Snorkelling is also excellent with lots of seagrass attracting feeding sea turtles.

I used an independent taxi service to travel to the island but all-inclusive day trips are offered by ‘Mary D‘, a family owned company who have been organising trips to the island for more than 30 years.

Mary D provide hotel transfers, transport to the island, snorkeling gear, lunch, entrance to the lighthouse and lots of fun activities.

Le Grand Sud Region

Mont-Dore

Free mineral water is available from the source at Mont Dore.

A short drive from bustling Noumea, the village of Mont-Dore is famous for its bottled mineral water, and if you’re in the area you can stop at the roadside fountain to fill any container you like with freshly piped mineral water – all free of charge. The locals bring bags of containers to refill!

Visitors to Mont Dore are able to fill their bottles with free mineral water direct from the source.

Yaté Dam

The impressive Yaté Dam was constructed in 1959 to provide power to the SLN Nickel plant in Ducos (Nouméa).

The impressive Yaté Dam was constructed to provide a reliable power source for the Nickel processing plant which is on the harbour in Noumea. The dam is 45 metres high and 641 metres long and is responsible for Lake Yaté, which is approximately 40 Km2.

A view of the east coast from the mountains above Yate village.

The sleepy settlement of Yate lies on the remote east coast of La Grande Terre. There is very little in town with the best accommodation options being in distant Noumea. If you’re driving, this is the only place with a service station in the Grand South region.

The floating jetty at the 4-star Kanua Tera Ecolodge, which lies at the end of a very lonely road at Port Boise.

At the end of a rough, red-earth, gravel road is the very remote Port de Boise. The only thing here is the deluxe Kanua Tera Ecolodge, which offers the only accommodation and restaurant option in this part of the country. They have a sister property on the Isle of Pines – see that section for more details.

View of the south coast of La Grand Terre from Cap N’Dua.

Further along the south coast, an even rougher red-earth track leads out to the lonely lighthouse at Cap N’Dua, which is part of the Cap N’Dua Reserve. From here you have spectacular views over the south coast of la Grande Terre, including the treacherous Havannah Pass.

The arid, dry, red-earth landscapes of Le Grand Sud region are reminiscent of outback Australia.

West Coast

Fort Téremba

The administrative building at Fort Téremba which now houses a museum.

Located near the town of Moindou, twenty minutes north of La Foa, Fort Téremba was built to house convicts sent from France and its colonies. The construction of a military fort and a prison, overlooking Uarai bay, began in 1871 at the request of the Governor who received a contingent of twenty-five convicts, with two supervisors and three policemen. The fort was built by the convict labour.

Panoramic views of Uarai bay from the top of the watchtower at Fort Téremba.

The camp was renamed Fort Téremba by reference to the island Téremba which is in the middle of the bay. The fort overlooks Uarai bay, opposite the mouth of the La Foa River, 124 kilometres north of Noumea.

The once dilapidated watchtower at Fort Téremba has been renovated and now includes a spiral staircase.

During the Kanak revolt in 1878, the gendarmes inside the fort were killed. However, the fort was never taken and at the time it was still in very good condition. After the revolt, the military fort was redesigned and strengthened to serve as bunkers and possible refuge.

Convict graffiti decorates the wall of a cell at Fort Téremba.

By 1906, the fort had fallen into neglect and remained that way until 1984 at which point it was restored. As part of the restoration, the former administration building was converted into a museum and interpretation Centre.

The cellblock at Fort Téremba was formerly used to house convicts.

Apart from the museum, you can also visit the adjacent cellblock where original convict graffiti can be seen and climb the watchtower which offers panoramic views over the bay.

La Foa

La Passerelle Marguerite in La Foa was designed and built in Paris by students of Gustav Eiffel.

Located on the main highway, immediately south of La Foa, La Passerelle Marguerite (Margaret bridge) is a suspension bridge which was shipped out in pieces from France after being designed by students of Gustav Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame) in 1909. It was re-assembled on-site using convict labour.

Bourail

Located on the highway, south of town, the Bourail museum and visitors centre includes informative displays which explain the history of this agricultural region.

Bourail Museum (Le Musée de Bourail) is located on the main road south of town and is housed in a former “food store”. The museum focuses on the settlement of the region around Bourail, which today is the agricultural heartland of New Caledonia.

The tourist office also shares this building and can provide maps and useful information if you are heading further north.

New Zealand War Cemetery

Located south of Bourail, the New Zealand WWII cemetery is the final resting place for 200 Kiwi soldiers killed in the Pacific war.

Nine kilometres south of Bourail on RT1 is the very well tended New Zealand War Cemetery. The cemetery serves as the final resting place for 200 NZ soldiers who were killed in New Caledonia during WWII.

A view of the New Zealand WWII cemetery near Bourail.

Baie des Tortuges

The beautiful Baie des Tortues (Turtle Bay) is a popular nesting site for sea turtles.

Located on the coast near Bourail, Baie des Tortues (Turtle Bay) is a beautiful sandy beach which is popular with swimmers and nesting sea turtles.

Baie des Tortues is lined with wildly contorted Araucaria pine trees which are endemic to New Caledonia.

While Baie des Tortues offers a fine beach, its just as famous for its impressive stand of the very rare Araucaria luxurians, which are endemic to New Caledonia.

A seriously warped Araucaria pine tree at Baie des Tortues.

Araucaria luxurians is a species of conifer which grow to a height of 40 metres, but whose trunks are very narrow at just 70 centimetres. Due to their disproportion, the taller the tree, the greater the lean.

A view over Baie des Tortues.

Located a short hike along the coast from Baie des Tortuges, Bonhomme is a striking monolith rock formation sculpted by waves. ‘Bonhomme’ means gentleman in French and gets its name from its shape which is said to resemble the profile of a man wearing a hat (when viewed from the sea).

Adjacent to Baie des Tortues, ‘Bonhomme’ is a large eroded rock which looks like a gentleman wearing a hat (when viewed from sea).

Poe Beach

A view of the lagoon from Poe beach.

Located a short drive from Bourail, Poe Beach is located at the end of the long and windy Route de Poe. This protected, 13-km long, white-sand beach is very popular with families and features a campground and the luxurious Sheraton New Caledonia Deva Spa & Golf Resort.

Koné

A view of the ‘Heart of Voh’ from my microlight flight.

The Heart of Voh is a natural, heart-shaped, bog in the middle of a mangrove swamp, which was made famous by French photographer Yann Arthus-Bertrand who featured it on the front cover of his best-selling photography book – Earth from Above.

My microlight plane at Koné airport.

The best way to view the heart is from the sky. Most flights are operated by the Hotel Hibiscus in Koné who operate their own fleet of microlight planes, which are strictly reserved for guests and must be booked in advance.

With the wonderful and very capable Captain Rudy, flying over Voh.

If you are not a guest at Hotel Hibiscus, there are other options. I flew independently with the excellent Captain Rudy from Nord Ulm who was able to accommodate me at the last-minute with a 30 minute flight costing 11,000 CFP (USD$109). Not cheap, but an unforgettable experience!

Contact details for Captain Rudy:

Email: rudyd@lagoon.nc
Telephone: +687 84 89 77

Approaching the Blue Hole, which is protected by its own fringing reef.

While on the flight, we flew over the spectacular Blue Hole – a natural hole in the middle of the lagoon (apparently 200 m deep) which is surrounded by a fringing reef that acts as a natural protection barrier. The only way to appreciate this wonder is from the air.

Koumac

The Koumac caves are hidden away at the end of a forested pathway, a few kilometres east of Koumac.

The highlight of Koumac is the Koumac Caves, which are two limestone caves located at the end of the road on the eastern (inland) outskirts of town.

The main cave is around 2.2 miles (3.7km) long, although only the first 350m metres are accessible. Bring a flashlight (or ‘torch’ app on your phone) and sturdy shoes as you need to climb boulders to access the main cave.

The Seabreeze catamaran provides a regular connection between Koumac and the Belep archipelago.

If you wish to travel to the remote northern Belep Islands, you can take the daily Seabreeze catamaran from Koumac Marina.

The catamaran completes the 110-km journey in 4 hours, departing Koumac at 14:00 and arriving in Belep at 18:00. On the return journey, the catamaran departs Belep at 06:00, arriving in Koumac at 10:00. A one-way ticket costs 3,510 CFP (USD$35).

Contact details:

Telephone: +687 42 57 74 or 47 57 18
Email: reservations@yalapbelep.nc

The Far North

The far north of La Grande Terre is characterised by arid, hilly countryside, which reminded me of Australia.

The drive to the far northern tip of La Grand Terre takes you on an isolated road, through beautiful, hilly countryside to the small settlement of Poum after which the road becomes a dusty, gravel track to the most northern point on the mainland – Boat Pass.

Boat Pass is the most northern point on La Grande Terre.

It’s all very lonely at the top of the mainland but the beach-side Relais de Poingam offers a choice of accommodation (including camping) plus a restaurant.

In my rental car on the road to the far northern settlement of Poum.

The most luxurious accommodation at the top-end of the island can be found south of Poum. The beachside Hotel Malabou is part of the ‘Grands hotel‘ group and offers the usual level of high service and impeccable facilities for which this group is renown.

East Coast

A view of the rugged East Coast of La Grand Terre, north of Hienghène.

The drive from the west coast to the east coast between Koumac and Hienghène takes you high into the central mountain range from where you have spectacular views of the east coast before the road descends into the coastal village of Pouebo.

Cascade de Tao

Cascading 100 metres, ‘Cascade de Tao’ is the highest waterfall in New Caledonia.

With a drop of 100 metres, Cascade de Tao is the highest waterfall in New Caledonia as well as the most impressive, plunging in two dramatic leaps with several sloping tiers.

Hienghène

Hienghène is famous for its various funky limestone-rock formations.

Located in northeast New Caledonia, Hienghène is most famous for its incredible geological formations. These limestone rocks, with names such as ‘Sphinx’ and ‘La Poule de Hienghene’ (‘The Hen Of Hienghene’) are easily viewed from the highway.

A roadside cemetery on La Grand Terre.

The town itself is a very small, quiet village which offers very limited services (no supermarket, one gas station located miles from anywhere and one restaurant with limited opening hours).

If you are interested in Scuba Diving, their are several reefs offshore which provide interesting diving.

Isle of Pines

Vao

The Isle of Pines was named by Captain James Cook who was intrigued by the unique, towering Araucaria pine trees, which can be found all over the island.

The main settlement on the Isle of Pines, Vao is a sleepy village which is home to one school, one grocery store, a church, a government administration building and not much else!

Kuto Bay

A true paradise! Kuto Bay on the Isle of Pines.

One of the most stunning bays you’ll ever see, and home to a decent accommodation option and one of the few restaurants on the island – Hotel Kou Bugny (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below for more details), Kuto bay is the best place to base yourself while on the Isle of Pines.

Kanumera Bay

The beautiful Kanumera Bay lies a short walk from Kuto bay.

Located around the corner from Kuto bay, the equally stunning Kanumera Bay is the perfect place to swim and snorkel. There are several accommodation options at the southern end of the bay.

Ouro

An abandoned penal cell block in the village of Ouro on the west coast of the Isle of Pines.

Penal Buildings – north of Kuto Bay, in the village of Ouro are the abandoned remains of various penal buildings, including cell blocks. The whole complex is very overgrown and deserted and at one point it did seem like I was on the set of an Indiana Jones movie. A very cool place to explore!

Baie de Gadji

A White-faced Heron, fishing for a meal, at Baie de Gadji.

Located on the northwest side of the Isle of Pines, Baie de Gadji is a protected bay which is a favoured anchorage for visiting yachts. With its bleached white beaches, uninhabited islands, turquoise blue water and world-class snorkelling, weary sailors tend to get stuck here.

Grotte de la Reine Hortense

The entrance to the impressive Grotte de la Reine Hortense on Isle of Pines.

Grotte de la Reine Hortense – Located near the airport, the impressive Grotte de la Reine Hortense is reached by a short pathway which meanders through a lush rainforest.

A lush forest surrounds the Grotte de la Reine Hortense.

The cave is named after Queen Hortense, the wife of a local chief, who is believed to have taken refuge here for several months during intertribal conflict in 1855.

Oro Bay

Situated on Oro bay, Le Meridien hotel offers the only 5-star accommodation on the Isle of Pines.

Set on the beautiful and remote, turquoise-coloured, crescent-shaped Oro Bay, Le Méridien Ile des Pins is the only 5-star resort on the island. If you’re booking your honeymoon accommodation or looking for a dream escape, this is the place for you!

Piscine Naturelle

Araucaria pine trees provide the perfect backdrop for the Piscine Naturelle on the Isle of Pines.

A highlight of the Isle of Pines is the pristine, Piscine Naturelle (Natural Pool), which is located a short drive from Le Méridien.

This natural pool occupies a stunning setting which includes a backdrop of soaring Araucaria pine trees. The pool is cut-off from the nearby ocean so is very protected and includes a dazzling array of marine life – even a Lionfish or two!

There are no shops here, so you’ll need to bring your own snorkel equipment and anything else you may need.

A roadside Kanak cemetery on the Isle of Pines.

Accommodation

My room at the not-so-central “Hôtel du Centre” in Noumea.

Noumea

There’s no shortage of accommodation in Nouméa, with options to suit all budgets. Downtown is not too charming and offers few hotels, while the main tourist hubs are the two beachside neighbourhoods of Baie des Citrons and Anse Vata – a short drive south of downtown.

Hôtel du Centre – The name of this hotel is a bit of a misnomer as it’s located nowhere near the centre of anything! A modern, funky, well-designed hotel, this property would be perfect if it was located anywhere else in town, however its setting in a semi-industrial zone on the northern outskirts of town makes this option totally unappealing.

Hotel Beaurivage – Part of the national Grands Hotel group, Beaurivage is perfectly located on the beach in Baie des Citrons and always priced to sell. Overlooking the beach, this well-designed hotel features spacious rooms, plenty of parking and is a short walk from the many restaurants and bars of Baie des Citrons. A perfect option!

La Foa

Interior of my shipping container room in La Foa.

Like many towns outside of Nouméa, La Foa has limited accommodation options, with most places being private homes listed on Airbnb.

While in town, I stayed with the amazing Christophe (French expat) and Jenny (his Indonesian wife), a wonderful couple who have set up a guest room in a converted shipping container in the garden of their property on the outskirts of town.

The container has been furnished with wooden furniture imported from Indonesia and Jenny occasionally cooks Indonesian dinners for her guests. You can book their container through Airbnb.

Interior of my shipping container room in La Foa, complete with Indonesian furniture.

The only hotel option in La Foa is the colonial-era relic that is Hotel Banu. Located on the main road, it seems the hotel was last renovated during the colonial period and as such gets mixed reviews. It’s home to the only bar in town, which is very lively and features a ceiling plastered in baseball caps. It’s also home to one of two restaurants in town so all visitors end up here at some stage.

Koné

My beautiful and spacious room at La Nea hotel in Koné.

Popular Koné features a few fine hotel options, with the downtown Hotel Hibiscus being the pick of the bunch. If you plan on flying in an ultra-light over the ‘Heart of Voh‘ you should know that the Hotel Hibiscus have their own planes which are made available only to their guests. If you are staying elsewhere you’ll have to organise your flight through your hotel.

The national ‘Grands Hotel‘ group has two properties located a short drive north of town, the Hotel La Nea and the Koniambo, which is opposite the airport.

I stayed at Hotel La Nea, which consists of a barricaded, private street which is lined with thirty private, spacious bungalows. Apparently, the bungalows were originally built to house construction workers who worked on the massive Koniambo mine in nearby Voh.

Koumac

The bedroom of my shipping container guest house near Koumac.

Like most towns in New Caledonia, accommodation options in Koumac are very limited. I booked another shipping container guest house through Airbnb, which was located 10-km south of town on the main highway.

With the addition of a 2nd container, Claudia and Pascal have created a spacious shipping container experience which includes a kitchen and living area.

Located on a large country lot, which is owned by Claudia & Pascal, another French ex-pat couple, this shipping container experience has been improved considerably by joining two containers in an ‘L’ shape.

The exterior of my shipping container guest house at Koumac.

The addition of the 2nd container allows plenty of space for a bedroom, bathroom, kitchen and living area. The containers are surrounded by a private garden area with seating. It’s all very inviting and relaxing with the main family house located away from the container.

You can book the container through Airbnb.

Hienghène

Sunset from Le Koulnoué Village in Hienghène.

Despite being a popular tourist destination, the sleepy east coast settlement of Hienghène has few accommodation options. The national Grands Hotel chain once again saves the day by offering the wonderful Le Koulnoué Village which is located on a sandy beach south of town.

The resort is popular with visiting French families who book all-inclusive packages. The meals served in the restaurant are amazing, with French chiefs elevating buffet dining into an art form rarely seen. Like all other restaurants in New Caledonia, the doors are firmly closed in between meals so don’t arrive mid-afternoon looking for a snack.

Isle of Pines

Accommodation options on the Isle of Pines are limited and the island is popular so best to book well in advance.

Even on a stormy day, Kuto Bay is still magnificent.

I stayed at the wonderful Hotel Kou Bugny which is located across the road from the stunning Kuto Bay. The hotel has its own fleet of rental cars which is ideal as one is needed in order to fully explore this charming island (see ‘Rental Cars’ below for more details).

Located around the corner from Kou-Bugny, on picturesque Kanumera bay, is the very comfortable Oure Tera resort, which is owned by the same competent folks who run the deluxe Kanua Tera Ecolodge at Port de Boise. The resort serves the best coffee on the island.

Eating Out

The popular ‘Number One’ beer really is #1 in New Caledonia.

Noumea

The capital of this French territory is home to many fine dining options with French chiefs regularly trading in the cold, European weather for a spell of balmy, tropical warmth. Europe’s loss is the Pacific’s gain.

Restaurants are concentrated in the southern beach side neighbourhoods of Baie des Citrons and Anse Vata where you’ll find a variety of establishments serving cuisine from around the world.

My regular breakfast café each morning was the wonderfully funky French café which is located around the corner from the Aquarium, on the beach at Anse Vata. The café is managed by the friendly and energetic duo or Max and Julien. Max recently finished a two-year contract, working in the mines of Western Australia and loves welcoming Aussies into the café and also loves practising his new-found Australian accent. G’day mate!

La Foa

Baseball caps line the ceiling of the bar at the Hotel Banu in La Foa.

There are two dining options on the main street in La Foa, the historic (1883) Hôtel Banu, which is an institution in these parts and is famous for its forest of baseball caps which are pinned to the ceiling of the main bar. Food and service here are very good.

Diagonally opposite Hôtel Banu is Le Jasmin, which serves Asian fusion and French crêpe’s . The old adage, ‘When in Rome‘, applies here and while the Asian menu items are terrible, the Crêpes are very good.

Koné

For fine dining in Koné, there is but one option, the wonderful restaurant at Hotel Hibiscus whose menu features local ingredients including beef from Bourail.

Located on the southern outskirts of Koné, inside the modern Teari shopping mall, the Au Palais Gourmand is possibly the best patisserie and boulangerie outside of Noumea. Open from early morning to early evening, 7 days a week, this slice of heaven offers crusty, artisanal baguettes, the freshest, buttery croissants, pain au chocolat and an amazing selection of sandwiches and pastries.

Koumac

The best (and only) restaurant option in Koumac is the excellent, waterfront Le Skipper. Like most restaurants in New Caledonia, this one closes after lunch (I arrived at 1:30 pm and was too late) and reopens at 7:00 pm for dinner.

If you get stuck, there’s a small snackette on the main street near the Post Office which serves hamburgers etc. This roadside, converted shipping container, closes promptly at 2 pm and while I was there, some unlucky (hungry) tourists were turned away since they had arrived just after closing time.

Hienghène

I consumed all my meals at Le Koulnoué Village which offered buffet breakfast and dinner (no need for lunch in between the gluttonous buffets).

The only restaurant option in the village is at the hilltop Ka Waboana Lodge, which – like most establishments in New Caledonia – closes between meals – check their website for current operating hours.

Isle of Pines

Dining options on the Isle of Pines are very limited. Overlooking the stunningly beautiful Kuto Bay, the Hotel Kou-Bugny restaurant and terrace bar welcomes clients whether they’re staying in the hotel or not – since there are few other places to eat on the island. The restaurant serves buffet-style meals and is closed outside of mealtimes. The adjacent terrace bar serves snacks throughout the day.

The restaurant at Oure Tera resort serves meals to clients and outside guests while the restaurant at Le Méridien Ile des Pins is the only dining option on the east coast. Prices are not too scary but the food is hit and miss.

Visa Requirements

New Caledonia passport stamps.

While New Caledonia is an overseas collectivity of France, it is not part of the Schengen Area and as such applies its own visa policy (which largely mirrors the Schengen Area policy). Generally, EU citizens are free to enter and reside indefinitely while many other passport holders are granted a 3-month stay. To check your requirements, click here.

Immigration

Immigration in the French territories is the breeziest of anywhere in the Pacific. No questions asked, no need to show a return ticket, nothing! Most visitors are processed in a matter of seconds – the way travel should be!

Getting There

Located on the north coast, 50-km north of Noumea, the very quiet La Tontouta airport is the international gateway to New Caledonia.

Air

International flights at La Tontouta International Airport (IATA: NOU) which is located in the middle of the countryside 52-km northwest of Noumea.

The following airlines provide services:

Air New Zealand – flies to/ from Auckland
Air Vanuatu – flies to/ from Luganville, Port Vila
Aircalin – flies to/ from Auckland, Brisbane, Melbourne, Nadi, Osaka-Kansai, Papeete, Port Vila, Sydney, Tokyo-Narita, Wallis Island
Qantas – flies to/ from Brisbane, Sydney

Airport Transport

Taxis rarely make it out to the airport as most people in the know avoid the unnecessary expense and take the airport shuttle service which is operated by Arc en Ciel, which is located outside the terminal doors, next to the rental car counters. A one way fare to Noumea is 3,000 CFP.

Sea

Cruise ships dock at the container terminal in Noumea and occasionally visit the Isle of Pines, where they dock in the very beautiful Kuto Bay.

Getting Around

My Air Caledonie flight from Noumea to the Isle of Pines.

Air

Domestic flights operate out of the much more conveniently located Nouméa Magenta Airport which is 3 km from downtown Noumea.

The airport serves as a base for the main domestic carrier – Air Calédonie – and the smaller Air Loyauté, which provides connections to the Loyalty islands.

The view from my flight to the Isle of Pines.

A word on baggage limits: Air Calédonie, provide you with the option to purchase a ticket allowing you to check in either 12 kg or 20 kg of baggage. You are only allowed one (1) carry-on item which must not exceed 5 kg.

They do weigh your carry-on and will charge excess fees if you’re overweight. The normal rule of one carry-on and one personal item does not apply for domestic flights in New Caledonia. I travel with a camera bag and laptop bag and was charged 3,500 CFP (US$34) at Magenta airport for excess ‘carry-on’ baggage.

An Air Caledonie flight, ready to depart Koné airport.

The following airlines provide services from Nouméa Magenta airport:

Air Calédonie – files to/ from Île-des-Pins, Koné, Koumac, Lifou, Maré, Ouvéa, Tiga, Touhoac
Air Loyauté – flies to/ from Lifou, Maré, Ouvéa, Tiga

Isle of Pines Airport.

Public Bus

There are three different bus companies offering connections around Noumea and throughout La Grand Terre:

Within Noumea: The very efficient, red-and-white, Karuia Buses operate throughout the capital, providing connections to most parts of the city. You can view their current route map here and timetables here.
Greater Noumea region: Carsud operates 13 routes which connects the capital with the ever-sprawling greater Noumea region. Destinations served include Tontouta Airport, Dumbéa, Païta, Normandie, Boulari, Plum and Mont-Dore. A route map can be viewed here while detailed route plans and timetables can be viewed here.
Interurban Coach: The RAI bus company provides connections between the capital and 360 different destinations on La Grand Terre. You can check the current schedule and tariffs here, while route maps can be viewed here.

Taxi

Taxis are not always easy to find in Noumea, especially after-hours.

There are currently 65 taxis operating in Noumea and most of these are unavailable outside of business hours.

Taxi drivers in Noumea do not work hours to suit their customers’ needs but instead work to suit their own needs. If you need to take a taxi in the evening or anytime on a weekend, you should order one well in advance (I once waited 40 minutes for a taxi to arrive on a Saturday morning).

There are three different tariffs charged – A, B and C according to the time and day with a fare around town averaging 1,000 CFP (USD$10).

Taxis can be booked by calling +687 28 35 12. Full details on tariffs can be viewed here.

Rental Car

My rental car, crossing a river in a remote corner of Le Grand Sud region.

La Grand Terre

All the usual rental car companies are represented at Tontouta airport and in downtown Noumea.

A rental car is the best way to explore the many remote corners of La Grand Terre. The French government spends a healthy amount on infrastructure, making a road-trip on New Caledonia a pleasant experience.

Car rental offices often close for two hour lunch breaks so best to confirm their opening hours before you visit.

Isle of Pines

With a complete lack of public transport, a rental car is the best way to explore the Isle of Pines.

With a complete lack of public transport, if you wish to explore the Isle of Pines you’ll need to rent a car or take a guided tour.

The Hotel Kou Bugny has a small fleet of compact rentals with rates of around 6,500 CFP (USD$64) a day (not a 24-hour rental period) so if you take the car at lunchtime, you will be required to return it that evening at the same daily rate.

A New Caledonia license plate.

Ferry

Ferry Betico offers regular connections between their Gare Maritime in downtown Noumea and the Isle of Pines and the Loyalty islands of Mare and Lifou. Current schedules and tariffs are available on their website.

Unlike other Pacific nations, ‘rubber time’ does not exist in well-organised New Caledonia. The Betico is very punctual, so if your departure is for 7 am and you arrive at 7:05 am, you’ll get to wave as the boat sails away – without you on board.

That’s the end of my New Caledonia Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Vanuatu Travel Guide

6 years ago

Darren McLean

Mount Yasur volcano on Tanna island - as viewed from the ash plain.

Vanuatu Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Vanuatu Travel Guide!

Date Visited: September 2018

Introduction

Home to some of the friendliest people on the planet, remote and rugged volcanic islands, an ancient culture, world-class diving, active volcanoes, pristine tropical beaches, rainforests, waterfalls, fine dining, quaffable organic coffee, melt-in-your-mouth chocolate and so much more, the Republic of Vanuatu offers a plethora of travel experiences for those willing to take the time to venture off the beaten track.

Mother and son relaxing on the beach on Tanna.

An archipelago of 83 islands (65 of which are inhabited and 13 of which are considered ‘main’ islands), most visitors first arrive on the island of Éfaté which is home to the capital and largest city, Port Vila, and the main international airport, Bauerfield International Airport. According to the Vanuatu National Statistics Office, 13,184 (53%) of visitors in 2017 arrived by air, while 11,662 (47%) arrived via cruise ship, spending just one day in Port Vila.

A smiley young girl, distracted in a church service on Tanna island.

During my time in the country, I explored the islands of Éfaté, Tanna and Espiritu Santo, the highlights of which were standing on the edge of the very active Mount Yasur volcano on Tanna, diving on the world’s largest shipwreck, the SS Coolidge, on Espiritu Santo and enjoying fine dining in Port Vila.

Happy, free-range cows on Éfaté. The beef from Vanuatu is some of the best I’ve every tasted!

As someone who enjoys a good steak, I’m now a fully fledged fan of Vanuatu beef – some of the best beef I’ve ever tasted – incredibly tasty, tender, free-range and always organic. Most cows on Vanuatu graze in large, open coconut plantations where they keep the grass low between the rows of palms.

No such thing as a ‘bad hair day’ on Vanuatu.

If you’re looking for a tropical paradise which offers a range of incredible travel experiences, Vanuatu and its friendly inhabitants await!

Location

Port Vila, Vanuatu

Located in the South Pacific, 975 km south-east of the Solomon Islands, 800 km west of Fiji and 1,750 km east of Australia, Vanuatu is a Y-shaped archipelago of 83 volcanic islands which extend north-south for 650 km. The largest island is the sparsely populated Espiritu Santo while the main hub is the island of Éfaté.

People

Children in Port Vila central market.

The 270,000 inhabitants of Vanuatu are called ni-Vanuatu (often abbreviated to ‘Ni-Van’) and are predominately (98.5%) Melanesian. Historians believe that, along with Australian Aborigines, the Melanesians emigrated from Africa into southern Asia between 50,000 and 100,000 years ago.

A map of the Melanesian region of the Pacific Ocean.
Source: Wikipedia

By using land bridges which existed due to low sea levels, they eventually migrated east to Australia and New Guinea, arriving there 40,000 years ago.

A young boy waiting on a boat in Port Vila harbour.

A further migration into the eastern islands of Melanesia (including Vanuatu) came much later, probably between 4000 B.C. and 3000 B.C. DNA tests have shown that the Melanesians are distinctly different to Polynesians and Micronesians, who it’s believed arrived in the Pacific from what is today Taiwan.

Blond Hair

A cool dude with a shock of blond hair in Port Vila.

Melanesians are one of a few groups of non-Caucasian people who have a gene which produces blond hair. It’s especially common among children and it’s not uncommon to see kids in Vanuatu sporting crazy, frizzy, blond hair.

The ni-Van are wonderfully friendly and the children very curious.

Flag

The flag of Vanuatu features a pig’s tusk which is deemed sacred and was traditionally used as a form of currency.

The flag of Vanuatu was adopted at the time of the nations independence in 1980. As for the design, the green represents the richness of the islands, the red symbolises blood which unites humanity as humans, and the black the ni-Vanuatu people.

The then Prime Minister of Vanuatu, Father Walter Lini, requested the inclusion of yellow and black fimbriations to make the black stand out. The yellow Y-shape represents the shape of Vanuatu islands on the map.

The emblem in the black is a boar’s tusk — the symbol of customs and tradition but also prosperity. Its worn as a pendant on the islands – along with two leaves of the local namele tree. These leaves are supposed to be a token of peace.

Currency & Costs

The front of the new 5,000 Vatu polymer banknote.

Currency

The currency of Vanuatu is the colourful Vatu (VT or VUV) – with notes in denominations of 200 VT, 500 VT, 1000 VT, 2000 VT, 5000 VT and 10,000 VT.

Currency is issued by the Reserve Bank of Vanuatu with banknotes printed on polymer by Thomas de La Rue of the UK and feature cultural references.

Exchange rates are:

The back of the new 5,000 Vatu polymer banknote.

Costs

Despite being a developing country, Vanuatu is not a cheap destination with travel costs (hotels, airfares, restaurant meals etc) often costing more than in neighbouring Australia.

If you wish to travel between islands, inter-island flights are the only convenient option and all flights are operated by the monopoly carrier, Air Vanuatu, whose airfares fully reflect the lack of competition. Flights are sold in segments at the same price (no discount for return bookings) with a one way flight from Éfaté to Tanna (40 mins) costing US$115 with the return ticket costing double that amount. Ouch!

A Tusker Beer advertisement in Port Vila.

Some sample costs (as at October 2018):

Cappuccino/ Café latte: 500VT
Bottle of local Tusker beer: 500VT
Can of Coca Cola: 350VT
Meal in an inexpensive restaurant: 1,200VT
Pad Thai noodle in Port Vila: 1,500 – 2,000VT
Steak meal in a fine-dining restaurant: 4,500VT
Entrance to Mele Waterfalls: 2,000VT (USD$18)

At USD$18, the Mele waterfalls are wonderfully refreshing but not especially cheap!

Philately

The stamps of Vanuatu feature local fauna and flora.

The stamps of Vanuatu are printed in Dunedin, New Zealand and are popular with international collectors. You can view and purchase stamps online from the Vanuatu Post website or from the General Post Office (GPO) in Port Vila.

Vanuatu stamps are popular among philatelists around the world.

Post-Boxes

The folks at Vanuatu Post clearly have a sense of humour and have no problem thinking ‘outside the (post) box‘. As I travelled around the country, I noticed post boxes in some interesting and truly bizarre locations.

One which has made international headlines is to be found at Hideaway Island Marine Sanctuary, home to the world’s only underwater post office, which is located at a depth of 3 metres.

A post box, which is cleared twice daily, on the slopes of Mount Yasur Volcano on Tanna.

Elsewhere, you’ll find a post box living dangerously on the edge of the crater at Mount Yasur volcano on the island of Tanna and one very lonely post box located on a remote beach on the back of Lelepa island (not sure of the clearing times of this one!).

Can you spot the hidden post box? A lonely post box installed on an isolated beach on Lelepa Island.

Sightseeing

Sunset over Port Vila harbour.

Éfaté Island

Most visitors to Vanuatu first arrive on the main island of Éfaté which is home to the charming, waterfront capital of Port Vila and the main international airport.

A friendly boy near Takara Hot Springs on Efate.

Outside of the capital, Éfaté offers pristine nature, plunging waterfalls, a blue lagoon swimming hole, snorkeling, diving, abundant marine life, boiling hot thermal springs, WWII relics and so much more.

Local handicrafts, such as these on Tanna island, are popular and affordable souvenirs.

Nearby, offshore islands make for interesting day-trips, including Lelepa, which was used as one of the film locations for the US reality television show Survivor: Vanuatu.

Within sight of Lelepa, Hat island, is famous as the burial site of the great Vanuatu Chief, Roi Mata, who had members of his court and family (including 40 wives) buried alive at his side to accompany him on his final voyage. Today the islands are part of Vanuatu’s one and only UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A colourful restaurant in downtown Port Vila.

A 130 km, paved ring road around Éfaté makes exploring the island by rental car ideal. If you plan to visit different sights on Éfaté, you should ensure you bring sufficient cash.

There are no ATMs outside of Port Vila and credit card facilities are non-existent. Entrance fees can be surprisingly expensive (e.g. 2000VT to enter Mele Waterfalls, 1500VT to enter Raru Rentapau River waterfall,1500VT to bathe in the Takara Hot Springs and have a mud-bath) so a day spent visiting different sights can quickly burn through your cash.

Port Vila

Vanuatu Parliament House in Port Vila.

The capital and largest town of Vanuatu, charming Port Vila (pop: 44,000) is located on a picturesque, natural harbour which now (thanks to a recently completed, New Zealand-funded, aid project), is fully accessible via a wide concrete pedestrian promenade that includes many stylish features such as stainless-steel railings, wooden and concrete bench seats, sculptures and lots of grassy areas.

There are plenty of French influences in Vanuatu including the love of ‘Boules’, being played here in Port Vila.

A handicraft market, various restaurants, a ‘Boules‘ ground and the ever-popular Nambawan Cafe (which screens free movies on their large outdoor screen each Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday evening) makes the harbour front the perfect place to relax anytime during the day but especially in the evening when the sun sets majestically into the sea.

Flights with Vanuatu Helicopter depart from their floating helipad in the harbour.

Next to the Nambawan cafe, is the office for Big Blue Scuba Diving (single dive: 7,900VT/ two-tank dive: 14,900VT) who organise daily dives to nearby wrecks and reefs. Next to Big Blue, is the office of Vanuatu Helicopter who offers flights from their offshore helipad.

A wonderful way to spend an evening on Port Vila harbour is on a sunset cruise with Captain George.

If you wish to observe the sunset from the harbour, you can join Captain George of Meridian Charters for one of his regular sunset cruises aboard his beautiful old sailing boat. Captain George can be found during the day at Le Cafe du Village and charges 5,500VT per person, which includes two complimentary drinks (including Champagne) and finger food.

A selection of some of the fine organic chocolate available from Gaston Chocolat in Port Vila.

One block inland, the busy main street of Port Vila, the Kumul highway, is lined with souvenir and duty-free shops, cafés, restaurants and at least two organic chocolate shops.

One of these shops is Gaston Chocolat, which produces beautiful hand-crafted chocolate bars made from locally grown cocoa. The other, much smaller shop belongs to the very popular Aelan Chocolate who have a much more interesting factory shop on the outskirts of town (see the ‘Around Éfaté‘ section below for more details).

The bustling Central market in Port Vila is open 24x7.

The bustling Central market in Port Vila is open 24×7.

The main hub of activity in Port Vila is the colourful, busy and always open (yes – 24×7) Central Market, which is literally home to a small army of sellers who sleep on mats at their stalls.

The range and quality of produce is astounding and so plentiful that it’s stacked up in the aisles. There is no ‘organic‘ designation in Vanuatu as all produce is organically grown by small-scale farmers.

The National Museum of Vanuatu in Port Vila.

Port Vila has few sights to visit but one that shouldn’t be missed is the National Museum of Vanuatu (1,000VT), which is located on a hill opposite Parliament house.

A display at the National Museum of Vanuatu in Port Vila.

While the displays are dusty and tired, the real star of the museum is the amazing Edgar Hinge. Edgar, who is employed as a museum guide, is a keen ambassador and promoter of Vanuatu’s culture and history.

So much more than a guide, Edgar is a master storyteller and uses the ancient art of ‘Sandroing‘ (Sand-drawing) to tell stories of Vanuatu’s history and culture.

Edgar Hinge of the National Museum of Vanuatu, telling a story using the ancient art of Sand-drawing.

A sand-drawing is created using one finger which moves in a continuous, flowing movement over a grid to draw a graceful, often symmetrical composition of geometric patterns. The story relating to the drawing is told as the drawing is slowly revealed. After the sand-drawing, Edgar provides an entertaining demonstration of local instruments.

Video:

Edgar Hinge, of the National Museum of Vanuatu, uses sand-drawing to tell the story of Black-birding, which was the colonial practice of kidnapping Pacific Islanders and transporting them via ship to Australia to work as labourers on sugar plantations in Queensland.

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The finished ‘Black-birding’ drawing by Edgar Hinge of the National Museum of Vanuatu.

I would describe Edgar as a national treasure. He has a special presence and energy and spending time with him was one of the highlights of my trip to Vanuatu.

Some of the delicious products produced by Vanuatu Craft using local fruits.

Located on the outskirts of Port Vila, next to the Tusker brewery (which does not offer tours), Vanuatu Craft is an association selling liqueurs and jams which are produced from local fruits. My favourite is their Raspberry jam, which is made from the native Vanuatu Raspberry – Rubus rosifolius.

Native Vanuatu Raspberries on sale at the Central market.

Mele Village

Mele waterfalls are the ideal place for a refreshing dip.

Located a short drive from Port Vila, tiny Mele is home to a few worthwhile attractions, including the beautiful Mele waterfalls (2,000VT). The falls are a 20 minute hike from the entrance point but, once there, they provide the ultimate refreshing escape from the sun and midday heat.

Amazingly fresh coffee served with a hint of friendly attitude at the Tanna Roasting Company.

Located in the village of Mele (10 minutes from Port Vila) is the Tanna Coffee Roasting Factory. Green beans are shipped from Tanna to Port Vila, where they are roasted and packaged by hand at this factory.

Tours of the factory are free, while a onsite cafe will satisfy any post-tour caffeine cravings. Light meals and superb cakes (the Lemon Meringue tart is highly recommended) are also available.

A display at the Secret Garden provides information on first European Contact with Vanuatu.

Also in Mele is the eclectic and engaging Secret Garden. Set in lush grounds, the Secret Garden is full of informative displays which covers the full gamut of Vanuatu history, culture and traditions.

If you wish to learn about head-hunters, cannibals, wives being buried alive alongside their dead husbands, first European-contact and so much more, then the Secret Garden is the place.

Cannibalism is just one of the many subjects covered at the Secret Garden in Mele.

Around Éfaté Island

Travelling anti-clockwise from Port Vila, I covered most sights on the 130 km circuit in a full day, although two days would allow a more relaxed pace. There are few restaurants outside of Port Vila, but the restaurant at The Havannah resort was recommended and did not disappoint. Definitely worth the stop!

Vanuatu Travel Guide: Aelan Chocolate factory

Products at the Aelan Chocolate factory near Port Vila.

First stop after leaving Port Vila was the Aelan Chocolate factory which sources its cocoa beans from small producers located on 4 different islands – Malo, Epi, Santo and Malekula. Due to their different environments, each island produces a bean whose taste is very distinct from the others.

The beautiful waterfall at Raru Rentapau River.

Located near the village of Teouma, Raru Rentapau River waterfall (1,500VT) offers the opportunity to swim in the crystal-clear waters of the river which cascade over waterfalls and flow through various rock-pools. Very refreshing!

Blue Lagoon is a place to unwind and swing like a monkey!

Located south of Eton village, on the main road, is the very popular Blue Lagoon (500VT) – a saltwater swimming hole with ropes, swings, canoes and picnic areas.

Blue Lagoon is a protected salt-water inlet.

A short drive north of Blue Lagoon, Eton beach (500VT) is a popular white-sand beach.

The thermal pools at Takara Hot Springs which are located on the north-east coast of Efate.

On the north coast of Éfaté, 46 km from Port Vila is the Takara Hot Springs, a low-key thermal pool complex with one mud pond which you can roll around in. Entrance is 1,500VT for bathers or 500VT for onlookers.

The view of the north coast of Efate from the ‘Top Rock’ lookout in Saama village.

Continuing in an anti-clockwise direction, the village of Saama is home to ‘Top-Rock‘, a true hidden gem. Unlike most other sights in Vanuatu, Top Rock is well signposted.

From the main road, I turned onto a dirt track, entering the tiny village of Saama and was soon met by the custodian who jumped in my car and directed me to the entrance.

Once I had paid my fee, I was guided along hedged pathways to a beautiful seaside lookout which offered panoramic views of limestone cliffs, pristine reefs (perfect for snorkeling) and clear waters.

The kayak, seen here in the immediate foreground, can be used to explore the small underground lake inside Siviri Cave.

Beyond Saama is the small coastal village of Siviri, home to Siviri Cave. The cave features a small subterranean lake which you can kayak on for 1,000VT (non-kayakers pay 500VT).

The restaurant at The Havannah resort is a great place for lunch.

By the time I reached The Havannah resort I was starving! Overlooking Havannah harbour, the resort is one of the few options for lunch outside of Port Vila, and features an elegant beach-side restaurant which offers an international menu of culinary delights, including delicious fresh Vietnamese spring rolls.

A nice, chilled, laid-back place to take timeout from the rigours of a road-trip. What a tough life!

Very fine Vietnamese spring rolls for lunch at The Havannah resort.

Lelepa Island

A beach on Lelepa Island.

Just beyond The Havannah resort, Lelepa Island came into view. Used as the location for American Survivor: Vanuatu, this fascinating island deserves a full day trip, which can be arranged from Port Vila through Lelepa Island Day Tours.

Tours are operated by locals from Lelepa who picked us up in their boats from Éfaté, transported us across to the island then spent the day showing us their special piece of paradise.

The light wood of the Sycamore tree is ideal for carving canoes. Locals on Lelepa island ‘reserve’ their tree by carving their names into the trunk.

The trip included lots of snorkeling in pristine waters, lunch, a village tour, a walk into a large cave and explanations of WWII history (US troops used the island during the war) and why it is the locals carve their names into the many Sycamore trees.

A large cave on Lelepa island is illuminated by candlelight.

Tanna Island

Mount Yasur volcano on Tanna island – as viewed from the ash plain.

A short flight south of Éfaté is the rugged and largely undeveloped island of Tanna, which is home to the Mount Yasur volcano, the world’s longest continuously erupting volcano – 800 years and counting!

The night-time glow from the Mount Yasur volcano illuminates the night sky.

It was the night-time glow from Mount Yasur that first attracted Captain James Cook to the island and today attracts intrepid travellers. If you’ve ever wanted to stand on the edge of the crater of an explosive, magma-filled volcano, Mount Yasur should be on your bucket-list. A truly magnificent, and at times scary, experience!

Lenakel

The busy market in Lenakel is full of local produce.

The rich volcanic soil of Tanna is ideal for growing produce and the famous Tanna (Arabica) coffee. The main market in the administrative centre of Lenakel is overflowing with produce, including reasonably priced local crabs!

A roadside market on Tanna.

Apart from the market, Lenakel offers an ATM, an office of Air Vanuatu and a few general stores – the only ones on Tanna.

Around Tanna Island

A spectacular sight, an explosive burst of activity, as viewed from the edge of the rim of Mount Yasur Volcano on Tanna island.

Mount Yasur Volcano

Mount Yasur volcano is the most accessible, active volcano on earth. In the local native dialect, Yasur means ‘Old Man‘ and this was without a doubt the #1 highlight of my trip to Vanuatu.

Walking at dusk along the edge of the crater at Mount Yasur.

To be able to stand on the edge of the crater of such an active volcano, to stare into its molten heart, to feel the earth shake beneath your feet whenever it exploded (at least every 15 minutes), to feel volcanic ash raining down on you, to be overwhelmed by clouds of obnoxious sulphurous gas.

To be one step away from falling into the crater!

Mount Yasur commands your respect and absolute attention. It’s one very powerful experience – always engaging and never dull! One thing that’s guaranteed from a visit is that all your senses will be fully assaulted!

A glimpse into the heart of the volcano before the sun disappeared.

All visitors to the volcano must join an official tour which are conducted three times a day (early morning, daytime or evening) by the tribal custodians of the volcano.

The entrance fee is a whopping 9,760VT (US$86) with all proceeds retained by the tribe. Sometimes trips are cancelled due to bad weather or increased volcanic activity.

If you’re determined to visit the volcano you should plan several days on Tanna in order to maximise your chances of a visit in case of cancellations due to bad conditions.

Video:

What’s it like to stand so close to an erupting volcano?

I shot this video from my position on the edge of the crater rim.

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It is generally agreed that Mount Yasur volcano is best viewed at night when the red-hot magma glows under the night sky. It was this glow which first attracted Captain James Cook to the island in 1774, the first European to discover Tanna. I did the evening tour and would certainly recommend it.

No shortage of loud explosions, volcanic-ash rain and sulphur-laden gas clouds stinging your eyes.

Once you have paid your entrance, you are treated to a small ceremony by the tribe then loaded into 4WD utilities and driven up to the volcano (past steaming vents) to a point just below the crater.

From here, a short stairway leads up to the craters’ edge. And – just in case you’re carrying any postal items at this point, you’ll be glad to know that Vanuatu Post have installed another of their post-boxes on the stairway. Volcano Post!

As the sun was setting, we moved into position on a narrow ridge which gave us an uninterrupted view of the incredible magma bubbling away inside the volcano.

We stood one step back from the edge of the crater. We spent more than an hour staring in awe at this mighty display of mother nature, truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Fellow visitors, illuminated by the fiery glow from Mount Yasur volcano.

Once the sun disappears, the trail (and the edge of the crater) also disappears into the darkness of the night. Apart from the glow from the volcano, it’s very dark and you cannot afford to put one foot wrong (lest you end up falling into the crater).

I was happy to have a ‘torch’ app on my phone which was useful for lighting the trail on the return journey to the car park.

Blue Cave

The Blue Cave on Tanna.
Source: https://vanuatuindependent.com

And now for something completely different…

The shoreline along the northwest coast of Tanna is composed of limestone cliffs and hidden away inside one of these cliffs, at the very north-western point of the island, is the magnificent ‘Blue Cave‘.

Myself, making a graceful entry into the Blue Cave on Tanna island.

The only way to access this part of the island is via boat and, from the ocean side, the presence of a cave is not immediately apparent. It’s only when you dive into the deep, clear ocean water (great snorkeling) and swim with a snorkel and mask to the limestone cliffs that a small slot becomes visible just below the waterline.

This is the obscure entrance to a vast, hidden cave, which is only accessible by diving under the water and passing through the narrow entrance into the cave.

Surreal lighting inside the Blue Cave.

Once inside, you’ll find yourself in a large expansive dome-shaped cave which is lit by rays of sunlight, which beam in through a small collapsed opening in the dome.

It’s this opening which has allowed the cave to form over millennia through water erosion. The seawater in the cave is a brilliant blue (hence the name) thanks to the sunlight beaming in from the ocean side. Boat trips can be organised by any of the hotels and guest houses along the west coast.

Tanna Coffee

Tanna Coffee Company.

“My only vice in life is my morning coffee.” Quote from Darren McLean.

As a self-confessed caffeine addict, I could not leave Tanna, without first paying a visit to the headquarters of the Tanna Coffee Company.

Green Arabica beans drying in the sun at the Tanna Coffee company, before being transported to Port Vila for roasting.

Tanna coffee is famous for its full-bodied Arabica bean, with the company sourcing its beans from more than 600 small-scale family farmers scattered all over the island.

The farmers are responsible for delivering green beans to the company headquarters on Tanna, which then ships the beans to the Tanna Coffee Roasting factory near Port Vila where they are roasted and packaged. You can purchase Tanna coffee via their online shop.

Traditional village housing on Tanna island.

Espiritu Santo

A one hour flight north of Éfaté lies the largest island in the archipelago – Espiritu Santo. ‘Santo’ is home to lush rainforests, aging coconut plantations, the world’s largest wreck dive – the SS Coolidge, the bizarre American WWII dumping ground – Million Dollar Point, crystal clear blue-water, swimming holes and powdery-white-sand beaches. Several nearby islands offer superb beaches, diving and snorkeling.

The provincial centre of Luganville (pop: 16,300) is located on the southeast coast and is the 2nd largest town in Vanuatu. It’s also home to the only other international airport in the country with regular flights to Brisbane (Australia) and Nouméa (New Caledonia). Most of the island is not connected to any road network, however a single (paved) road runs for 50 km along the east coast from Luganville to the northern beach settlement of Port Orly.

Luganville

Not the most charming town in the world – the drab downtown area of Luganville is dominated by cheap Chinese stores selling cheap Chinese imports to suit the needs of the local market. In between the Chinese shops are a few glitzy new banks, the old and dated Hotel Santo, the shiny and new The Espiritu Hotel (which has a popular restaurant serving some of the best meals in town) and the wonderful Attar Bakery and Café, where you’ll find the best coffee in town (although sadly – not Tanna coffee).

WWII

WWII, US military-built, Quonset huts are still in use today in Luganville.

During WWII, Santo was the second largest US base in the Pacific (after Hawaii), with more than 40,000 troops stationed permanently on the island, most of them in Luganville.

The current street plan of Luganville was created by the Americans who laid out the streets out using a typical grid pattern which you’ll find in most US towns and cities.

The streets were lined with military-built Quonset huts, some of which are still in existence and have been converted into industrial spaces by local businesses.

Displays at the development office of the South Pacific WWII Museum in Luganville.

A new addition to the town will be the South Pacific WWII Museum, which is currently in the development phase. A temporary development office has been established to showcase some of the relics which will grace the display cases of the completed museum (scheduled to be completed by 2022) and to allow organisers to coordinate fundraising efforts.

Gene Roddenberry in Luganville

The ‘Gene Roddenberry’ display at the South Pacific WWII museum in Luganville.

During the war, there were several aviation accidents on Santo, one of which happened on the 2nd of August 1943, when a B-17 bomber, “Yankee Doodle”, overshot the runway by 150 m (500 feet), impacted trees, crushing the nose, and starting a fire – killing two men.

The young Army pilot of that plane, Gene Rodenberry, survived and would later find worldwide fame as the creator of Star Trek. A display at the museum tells the story of Mr Roddenberry’s time on Santo during the war.

SS Coolidge

The SS Coolidge was an American luxury liner converted for military use in WWII. Due to poor communications, it was sunk by friendly mines while enter Luganville harbour and is today the world’s largest wreck dive.

The SS Coolidge shortly before it sank.
Source: discovervanuatu.com

Next to the Attar Bakery and Cafe is the home and dive shop of Allan Power who is ‘Mr SS Coolidge’. If you plan to dive the SS Coolidge, you should do it with someone who has dived the wreck 15,000 times. Yes – 15,000 times!

Originally from Australia, where he use to spend his time photographing fish on the Great Barrier Reef, Allan has called Luganville home for the past 49 years and has made the Coolidge his life’s work. No one knows the SS Coolidge better than Allan who, now in his 80’s, still drives divers in his minibus each morning out to the wreck site but leaves the diving to his very capable team of dive-masters.

Diving the SS Coolidge.
Source: discovervanuatu.com

Million Dollar Point

Today, reminders of the war can be found scattered around the island, nowhere more so than at Million Dollar Point, which is located on Segond Channel less than a kilometre to the east of the SS Coolidge.

Rusty WWII relics litter the beach at Million Dollar Point.

At the end of the war, the Americans had insufficient space on their ships returning to the US to fit all the masses of equipment that had accumulated on Santo. The priority for the US government was the safe return of its troops so it was decided to leave the equipment behind.

Million Dollar Point is an environmental catastrophe and also a popular dive and snorkel site.

The US offered to sell all the surplus equipment to the Colonial (French/ English) Government at a very low price. However the government refused to pay, believing the Americans would simply leave the equipment and they would acquire it free of charge. The Americans however had another idea. They lined up all the surplus equipment on the shore with engines running then placed bricks on the accelerators and let the equipment rumble into the channel, a channel which has a drop-off to 35 metres. It is believed about a million dollars worth of equipment was dumped, hence the name.

Tales of the South Pacific

Tales of the South Pacific was written by James A. Michener during his time on Espiritu Santo.

One of America’s favourite storytellers, James A. Michener wrote Tales of the South Pacific while stationed in Espiritu Santo during WWII. The book was later adapted as the Broadway musical ‘South Pacific‘ by Rodgers and Hammerstein. The musical was made into a feature film in 1958 and in 2001 it was made into a Film for Television.

Around Espiritu Santo

The one highway on Espiritu Santo runs along the east coast.

Touring Santo is easy really – there’s just one paved road along the east coast which connects Luganville with the settlement of Port Orly – a 50 km leisurely drive which passes a number of sights along the way.

A perfect swimming spot – Riri blue hole, one of several such natural pools on Santo.

Normally I would hire a rental car, but with the two rental companies in Luganville charging at least 10,000VT for a car, I decided to tour the island with the wonderfully charismatic and knowledgeable Esline Turner from Santo Seaside Villas. It was far cheaper and much more informative.

Together with two other guests from Santo Seaside Villas, I spent the day with Esline exploring such sights as:

A former US military vault which is hidden away in the back streets of Luganville.

A former US military vault which once stored the salaries of US troops.

Million Dollar Point, the ultimate WWII dumping ground and environmental disaster.

Million Dollar Point was used as a dumping ground for US equipment at the end of WWII.

The Wreck of a B-17 bomber which is now hidden in overgrown jungle near to Million Dollar Point

Located in the middle of the jungle on Espiritu Santo, this wreck of a B-17 bomber can only be found with a knowledgeable guide.

Riri Blue Hole (500VT) – one of a few blue holes on the island, Riri is the perfect place for a refreshing dip in a freshwater swimming hole.

Santo is home to several fresh-water blue holes, including beautiful Riri.

Champagne Beach (2,000VT per vehicle) – a secluded, undeveloped, stunningly beautiful white-sand beach which is occasionally visited by cruise ships.

A nice beach to have to yourself, Champagne Beach is the finest beach on Espiritu Santo.

Port Olry – a small settlement at the end of the road which offers two restaurants and limited accommodation overlooking a white-sand beach which is lapped by milky-blue surf.

The white-sand beach at Port Olry.

Malo Island

One of the many friendly village children on Malo Island.

Located 3 kilometres off the southern shore of Santo, sleepy Malo Island is home to a few thousand souls, coconut and cocoa plantations, incredible nature, lots of birds, beautiful wild orchids, pristine beaches and wonderful snorkeling. I visited Malo on a day trip with Esline Turner from Santo Seaside Villas aboard her glass-bottom boat.

Beautiful Malo Island.

On-route to Malo, we stopped to snorkel on a remote, pristine reef where the abundance of marine life was dazzling.

Once we reached Malo, we anchored at a remote, sandy beach which was shaded by giant, ancient Tamanu trees, which host many different types of plants on their huge branches, including native orchids. The trees extend outwards over the water, providing the perfect canopy and protection from the blazing sun.

Giant Tamanu trees provide ample shade on the beach at Malo Island and host several native species of wild orchids.

The local villagers had raked the sandy beach and had prepared a BBQ which Esline used to cook amazingly tender Santo steaks and grilled fish.

Our amazing guide, Esline Turner, preparing a delicious lunch on Malo Island.

After a delicious lunch we had time to relax and snorkel before Esline led us on a short island walk – Esline is a native of Malo and is proud to be able to show visitors her beautiful island. After the walk we boarded the boat and motored back to Luganville. A great day out!

A wild orchid on Malo Island.

Accommodation

Éfaté Island

Iririki Resort and Spa

Waterfront bungalows at the private island, Iririki Resort and Spa, in Port Vila.

Not many cities can boast having a 5-star private-island resort in the middle of their harbour. Located across a narrow channel from downtown Port Vila, Iririki Resort & Spa offers eight different types of rooms, swimming pools, restaurants, a casino, spa, snorkeling and everything else you would expect from a 5-star resort.

Access to the resort is via a free shuttle boat which departs from behind the Central market.

Seachange Lodge

The living room in ‘The Cottage’ at Seachange Lodge.

While in Port Vila, I stayed at the wonderful Seachange Lodge which is owned by the amazing Ian Kerr, a New Zealand expat who has settled in Vanuatu after many years of running successful businesses in New Zealand and Australia.

The kitchen in ‘The Cottage’ at Seachange Lodge.

Ian is a keen promoter of Vanuatu and was instrumental in the planning process of my trip, which was done on my first day using the hand-painted, wall-sized map of Vanuatu which decorates the reception area of his lodge.

One of the two spacious bedrooms in ‘The Cottage’ at Seachange Lodge.

Ian introduced me to everyone I needed to know and ensured I didn’t leave any stone unturned. I thank Ian for making my stay in Vanuatu a memorable one and recommend his wonderful guesthouse as THE place to stay while in Port Vila. Ian offers a range of accommodation at his lodge from cheaper backpacker rooms to deluxe, lagoon-side bungalows.

The bedroom in the ‘Lagoon bungalow’ at Seachange Lodge.

Seachange Lodge is a home away from home and I can’t wait to return!

The bathroom, with spa bath, in the ‘Lagoon bungalow’ at Seachange Lodge.

Tanna Island

Friendly Beach Resort

The comfortable interior of my bungalow at Friendly Beach Resort.

While on Tanna, I stayed at the Friendly Beach Resort which is located on an isolated, black-sand beach on the very remote east coast. Access to the resort is via a rough 4WD track through lush tropical rainforest.

My bungalow at the very remote Friendly Beach Resort.

The resort consists of four spacious beach-side bungalows, which have been constructed from wood and bamboo using traditional techniques. All bungalows were painstakingly rebuilt following the destruction wrought by cyclone Pam in 2015.

One of the friendly staff members at Friendly Beach Resort weaving a traditional basket.

The staff at ‘Friendly’ are very friendly and helpful and will ensure you get the most from your visit to Tanna. All staff are recruited from the nearby village of Louna Sunan which is a short walk up the 4WD track.

Attending a Sunday church service in the village of Louna Sunan on Tanna island.

The villagers are incredibly friendly and welcoming and on one Sunday, I attended a village church service which was a very nice experience.

A young girl is distracted during a church service in the village of Louna Sunan.

If you wish to drop off the grid and escape from the world at large then this is your place. There is no Wi-Fi and leaving the resort requires you to hire the services of the resort taxi (it is a long way from anywhere!). Lighting is provided for 6 hours each evening via a generator.

My presence was a novelty for the children of Louna Sunan, who were clearly bored with the church service.

Meals are served three times a day and, upon request, can include such delicacies as local lobster (divine!).

Espiritu Santo

Santo Seaside Villas

My spacious, tastefully decorated villa at Santo Seaside Villas.

On Santo, I based myself in the main town of Luganville, at the very comfortable Santo Seaside Villas. Overlooking the Segond Channel, a few kilometres from town, the property features two spacious, well-appointed, villas and one smaller studio apartment.

Esline Turner provides a wonderful continental breakfast each morning at Santo Seaside Villas.

The property is owned by the wonderful Esline Turner and her husband John. This dynamic duo also offer snorkeling trips to Malo Island in their glass-bottom boat and full-day island tours of Santo.

The shipwreck at Santo Seaside Villas features a nice snorkeling reef.

Directly in front of the property is a beautiful wreck of an old trading boat which became marooned years ago during a cyclone. The wreck is surrounded by a small reef which makes for ideal snorkeling.

Bungalows at the Beachfront resort in Luganville.

I also stayed at the Beachfront Resort which offers beautiful, air-conditioned, bungalows which are surrounded by lush tropical gardens, overlooking the bay. The restaurant serves very fine meals and the swimming pool is one of the best in town.

The restaurant and pool area at the Beachfront resort in Luganville.

The best accommodation option downtown is the modern and new The Espiritu Hotel.

Eating Out

Éfaté Island

Port Vila is a foodies’ paradise, offering a good selection of restaurants from fine dining to casual takeaway, all in a small downtown area.

Fine Dining

If you’re celebrating a special occasion or wish to experience fine dining, the Blue Marlin Club will not disappoint. Located on a hill overlooking the harbour, everything about this gourmet heaven is elevated. The talented UK chief (Matt) is a master of his craft and prepared for me the most divine Vanuatu steak. This is the pinnacle of dining in Port Vila.

Not to be out-done is the legendary L’Houstalet which is the oldest restaurant in town. Founded in 1973 by French Chief, Clement Martinez, who still works in the restaurant each evening, the surroundings and décor are simple and unpretentious, but the food is anything but.

From Vanuatu steak with Roquefort sauce or Lobster Thermidor, the meals served by Clement are truly memorable. Clement has stated that his goal is to remain in the restaurant to celebrate its 50th anniversary in 2023. A speciality of the house is the roasted flying fox!

Cafés

Le Cafe du Village in Port Vila serves wonderful Tanna coffee.

I started most days in Port Vila with a leisurely breakfast at Le Cafe du Village which is located on the waterfront. The service, coffee and food are all divine with the breakfast menu offering everything from Eggs Benedict to muesli to pancakes. The cafe is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and includes a cosy bar area.

A fine Vanuatu raspberry tart made by the French pastry chief at ‘Au Peche Mignon’ in Port Vila.

Another cafe which I frequented is the wonderfully French – Au Peche Mignon. From the fine French pastries to the French-speaking staff, it all feels like a slice of Nouméa in Port Vila. Despite being so French, they make a mean meat pie!

Coffee at ‘Au Peche Mignon’ in Port Vila.

Jill’s Cafe is always popular and, thanks to its American owner, offers a US-inspired menu. If you’re in the mood for a fully loaded sandwich or a milkshake this is your place. Jill’s is the only cafe in town which serves Tanna coffee.

On the waterfront near to Jill’s, the Nambawan Cafe & Bar offers meals, coffee, a full bar and a free outdoor cinema. In the same complex, Pad Thai serves authentic Thai food which is prepared by the friendly Thai chief. His ‘chicken with ginger’ is straight from the streets of Bangkok.

Freshly roasted Tanna coffee on sale at the Tanna Coffee Roasting company in Port Vila.

For the absolute best coffee anywhere in Vanuatu, you’ll need to head outside of Port Vila towards the village of Mele where you’ll find the Tanna Coffee Roasting Company. Located on the main road, Tanna coffee provide visitors with a free guided tour of their small factory after which you can order a coffee at their cafe. Food and cakes are also available.

Other Restaurants

A short walk along the waterfront from Le Cafe du Village is the popular Waterfront Bar & Grill Restaurant where the beers are cold and the steaks and fish are always excellent.

A special dining experience is offered a short drive from Port Vila at the lagoon-side Vila Chaumières where the chief, Samson, has been cooking up a storm for more than 20 years. The eclectic menu includes culinary influences from around the world, including French, Cajun, Indian and local. I sampled the Coconut crab which was heavenly.

Cheap Eats

Cheap (but delicious) street food can be found at the Central market in Port Vila.

There are plenty of cheap eats in Port Vila, with the cheapest being the food stands inside the central market, where you can buy parcels of freshly cooked vegetables topped with a piece of grilled meat for just 200VT.

Tanna Island

Most guest houses on Tanna provide full board for their guests due to their remote locations. I ate all meals at my guest house – Friendly Beach Resort – which served filling, tasty meals which showcased local seafood and produce.

Espiritu Santo

Roadside food stand on Espiritu Santo.

Dining options in downtown Luganville include the wonderful restaurant at the shiny and new The Espiritu Hotel which offers a creative international menu. I enjoyed the local sweet potato Gnocchi served with pesto sauce.

Across the road from The Espiritu Hotel is the best cafe in town, the Attar Bakery and Café which is open until late most evenings. The selection of food, freshly baked cakes and delicious coffee ensure this place is always busy.

Outside of town, the restaurant at the Beachfront Resort offers fine meals which feature delicious local produce including the famed Santo Beef.

Visa Requirements

Vanuatu Passport Stamp.

Currently 120 different nationalities can enter Vanuatu without a visa, either for a period of 30 days or 90 days, depending on your nationality. For more information, you should check the current Visa Policy of Vanuatu.

Immigration

The Vanuatu Immigration service require all visitors to show a return ticket upon arrival – and they do check!

Getting There

Arriving on Tanna Island with Air Vanuatu.

Air

Vanuatu has two international airports with the main gateway being Bauerfield International Airport in Port Vila while Santo-Pekoa International Airport on Espiritu Santo has international flights to/from Brisbane and Nouméa.

Éfaté Island

Bauerfield International Airport (IATA: VLI) serves as the hub for Air Vanuatu and offers the following connections:

Air Niugini – flies to/from Honiara, Port Moresby
Air Vanuatu – flies to/from Auckland, Brisbane, Dillon’s Bay, Emae, Honiara, Ipota, Lamap, Lamen Bay, Lonorore, Luganville, Nadi, Norsup, Nouméa, Paama, South West Bay, Suva, Sydney, Tanna, Tongoa, Ulei, Valesdir
Aircalin – flies to/from Nouméa
Fiji Airways – flies to/from Nadi, Suva
Solomon Airlines – flies to/from Honiara
Virgin Australia – flies to/from Brisbane

Airport Transport

From Bauerfield International Airport, taxis (2,500 VT) and public buses (1,000 VT) are available to downtown Port Vila.

Espiritu Santo

Santo-Pekoa International Airport (IATA: SON) offers the following connections:

Air Vanuatu – flies to/from Brisbane, Nouméa, Craig Cove, Gaua, Longana, Port Vila, Sola, Walaha

Airport Transport

From Santo-Pekoa International Airport, taxis (1,500 VT) and public buses (150 VT) are available to downtown Luganville.

Sea

A P&O cruise ship in Port Vila.

Éfaté Island

Cruise ships visit Port Vila every other day, docking adjacent to the (less-than-pretty) container terminal a few kilometres south of town. Most ships operate out of Australia, delivering hoards of Australian day-trippers to the capital. You can view the busy cruise ship schedule here.

Espiritu Santo

Luganville

Five cruise ship arrivals are currently scheduled for 2018.

Champagne Beach

Eleven cruise ship arrivals are currently scheduled for 2018. There are no facilities on this remote (but incredibly beautiful) white-sand beach but locals setup pop-up shops to cater for the day-tripping hoards.

A P&O cruise ship departing Port Vila.

Getting Around

Éfaté Island

Public Transport

Public buses in Vanuatu sport a red ‘B‘ on their license plate and it seems every second vehicle on the streets of Port Vila is a public bus – all of which are either Japanese or Korean mini-vans.

Supply outstrips demand with drivers cruising around looking for passengers (and causing congestion!). Buses operate from point-to-point, charging 150VT for drops in the downtown area and more for longer rides – you need to negotiate the fare in advance.

Taxi

Like buses, taxis on Vanuatu display a red ‘T‘ on their license plate. Taxis are un-metered but cheap and plentiful.

Rental Car

The Vanuatu license plate of my rental car on Efate.

Just as buses and taxis are designated with a red ‘B‘ or ‘T‘, hire cars are designated with a green ‘H‘. The best way to maximise your time on Éfaté is by renting a car. Armed with a good (free) map from the tourist office, you’ll be able to discover most of the attractions on this fascinating island by yourself.

There are plenty of rental car agents in downtown Port Vila, most of whom are grouped together along Rue D’Artois.

Hertz – located downtown on Rue D’Artois.
Avis– office at the airport and downtown on Rue D’Artois.
Budget – office downtown on Rue D’Artois
Europcar – office at the airport and on the Lini highway in downtown Port Vila.
World Car Rentals – office in Port Vila on the Kumul highway, they’ll deliver and pick-up from your hotel.
Go 2 Rent – office downtown on the Kumul highway.

Tanna Island

Most roads on Tanna are un-signposted, rough, 4WD tracks. Not surprisingly, there are no rental cars on the island.

The road along the west coast of Tanna, which connects the airport to some of the resorts and Lenakel, is sealed while most other roads are unpaved, deeply rutted and adventurous.

Public Transport

There are no buses on Tanna but some pickups operate as shared taxis.

Taxi

4WD pickup trucks operate as shared taxis on the tough roads of Tanna with most shuttling between the main town of Lenakel and the various remote settlements. Most tourists engage private drivers to get from A to B, all of which can be organised by your guest house and will cost a small fortune.

Rental Car

There are no rental cars on Tanna and once you see the condition of the roads (and complete lack of signage) you’ll understand why!

Espiritu Santo

Public Transport

There are plenty of public buses shuttling along the main road in Luganville, operating from point to point, charging 150VT around town.

Taxi

There are plenty of taxis in Luganville, with fares as cheap as the buses, averaging 150VT for drops around town and 300 VT for longer drops.

Rental Car

Unlike the bargain taxis, rental cars on Santo are not cheap, starting at 10,000VT (USD$90) per day. Guest houses can normally offer cheaper guided tours of the island. I personally recommend the island tour conducted by Esline Turner of Santo Seaside Villas – cheaper than a rental car, much more informative and definitely more entertaining.

If you wish to splash some cash on an expensive rental, you can do so by contacting the following agents in Luganville:

The Espiritu Hotel & Car Rental – this smart hotel offers 2WD SUVs from 10,000VT per day and seems to be the best option.
Santo Car Hire – rents dual-cab pickups (14,000VT per day), Quad bikes (12,000VT per day) and UTV’s (12,000 – 18,000VT per day).

That’s the end of my Vanuatu Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Travel Quiz 08: Territorial Flags of the World

7 years ago

Darren McLean

World Flag Quiz: Flags Quiz Feature Image

Territory Flags Quiz

This is a Territory Flags Quiz from taste2travel!

How well do you know your World Territory Flags? Are you a true vexillologist?

Test your knowledge with this Territory Flags quiz from taste2travel.

How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?

Good luck!

01. This is the flag of which territory?

Cook Islands

Nuie

Anguilla

British Virgin Islands

Correct! Wrong!

02. This is the flag of which territory?

Gibraltar

Jersey

Guernsey

Isle of Man

Correct! Wrong!

03. This is the flag of which territory?

Guam

Puerto Rico

American Samoa

Northern Mariana Islands

Correct! Wrong!

04. This is the flag of which territory?

Christmas Island

French Polynesia

Wallis & Fortuna

Tokelau

Correct! Wrong!

05. This is the flag of which territory?

Cook Islands

Norfolk Island

American Samoa

Turks & Caicos

Correct! Wrong!

06. This is the flag of which territory?

New Caledonia

French Polynesia

Martinique

Guadeloupe

Correct! Wrong!

07. This is the flag of which territory?

Anguilla

British Virgin Islands

Turks & Caicos

Montserrat

Correct! Wrong!

08. This is the flag of which crown dependency?

Isle of Man

Guernsey

Jersey

Bermuda

Correct! Wrong!

09. This is the flag of which crown dependency?

Greenland

Faroe Islands

Isle of Man

Falkland Islands

Correct! Wrong!

10. This is the flag of which territory?

Greenland

Svalbard

Åland Islands

Faroe Islands

Correct! Wrong!

11. This is the flag of which territory?

Wallis & Fortuna

New Caledonia

French Polynesia

French Guiana

Correct! Wrong!

12. This is the flag of which territory?

Åland Islands

Svalbard

Faroe Islands

Cayman Islands

Correct! Wrong!

13. This is the flag of which territory?

Aruba

Sint Maarten

Bonaire

Curacao

Correct! Wrong!

14. This is the flag of which territory?

British Virgin Islands

Cayman Islands

Cook Islands

Anguilla

Correct! Wrong!

15. This is the flag of which territory?

Cayman Islands

Bermuda

Turks & Caicos

Anguilla

Correct! Wrong!

16. This is the flag of which territory?

Falkland Islands

Montserrat

British Virgin Islands

British Indian Ocean Territory

Correct! Wrong!

17. This is the flag of which territory?

Cayman Islands

Pitcairn Island

Bermuda

Falkland Islands

Correct! Wrong!

18. This is the flag of which territory?

Guam

American Samoa

Northern Mariana Islands

Puerto Rico

Correct! Wrong!

19. This is the flag of which territory?

Faroe Islands

Åland Islands

Greenland

Saba

Correct! Wrong!

20. This is the flag of which territory?

Sint Eustatius

Aruba

Saba

Bonaire

Correct! Wrong!

Travel Quiz 08: Territorial Flags of the World

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Andorra Travel Guide

7 years ago

Darren McLean

Andorra Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Andorra Travel Guide!

Date Visited: May 2018

Introduction

During my many years of living in Europe, I had the opportunity to explore most parts of the continent, however, there was one small stone which always remained un-turned, a country I’d passed many times without setting foot in – the Principality of Andorra. And so, on a recent trip to Europe, I took the opportunity to make the pilgrimage up into the Pyrenees mountains to explore this tiny alpine jewel, the world’s only predominately Catalan-speaking nation.

The flag of Andorra, a vertical tri-colour of blue, yellow, and red with the coat of arms of Andorra in the centre.

According to the constitution, Andorra is a Principality that retains the President of France and the Bishop of Urgell (Spain) as co-princes and heads of state.

The backbone of Andorra, the Pyrenees mountain range separates the Iberian Peninsula from the rest of Europe.

Located off the standard tourist trail, high in the southern Pyrenees mountains, wedged between two neighbouring giants (France and Spain), Andorra is a small country in terms of area and population (77,281) and one which is often overlooked on travel itineraries.

The white ski slopes of the Vallnord resort cut a clear path across the mountain.

Those travelers who do make the journey are rewarded with spectacular hiking trails, superb skiing, gourmet food, duty free shopping and time spent in picturesque towns and villages surrounded by towering, majestic peaks. Andorra is a stunningly beautiful, fascinating destination – one that should not be missed.

Location

Andorra is a landlocked Principality, located high up in the southern peaks of the Pyrenees Mountains, bounded by France to the north and east and by Spain to the south and west. With a total land area of 468 km² (181 sq mi), Andorra is the sixth-smallest nation in Europe. The country consists predominantly of rugged mountains and has an average elevation of 1,996 metres (6,549 ft).

The towering Pyrenees mountain range, Andorra.

History

Originally built as a manor house, the 16th century “Casa de la Vall” previously housed the General Council (Parliament of Andorra).

In historical terms, Andorra as a country is a relic from a by-gone era when Europe was divided up into thousands of small sovereign nations – each no bigger than an average modern city. Over the centuries, this patchwork of micro-nations was unified into the larger nations which exist today.

Andorra, in its current form, has existed for more than a thousand years, with its independence accredited to the French King – Charlemagne – who took control of the country from Muslim invaders in AD 803. His son, Louis the Pious (aka Louis the Fair, and Louis the Debonaire), gave the Andorran’s a charter of liberties. In AD 843, Louis’ son, Charles II, gave control of Andorra to the Counts of Urgell (from nearby La Seu d’Urgell – now in Spain). The Counts passed control of Andorra to the Bishops of Urgell.

In the late 13th century a quarrel between the Spanish Bishops of Urgell and the French heirs to the Countship of Urgell led to Andorra’s dual allegiance to two princes – the Spanish Bishop of Urgell and the French head of state, each of whom received an annual payment of a token tribute.

Andorra Today

The New General Council – the parliament of Andorra.

This feudal system of government remained intact until March of 1993, when Andorrans voted to establish a new constitution that officially declared the country a “parliamentary co-principality“. A constitution was adopted that greatly reduced the power of the co-princes and established separate executive, legislative, and judicial branches of government. Andorra subsequently joined the United Nations in 1993.

Today, tourism is the main economic activity of the country with financial services also playing an important role. Andorra has the status of a ‘tax haven’ and, like Switzerland, has its own banking secrecy laws.

The busy land border between Spain and Andorra.

Because of the lack of customs duties and low or nonexistent taxes, Andorra has become an important international centre of retail trade and is a popular duty-free shopping destination for French and Spanish day-trippers. Due to its ‘duty free shopping paradise’ reputation, Spanish customs officials normally perform thorough searches on anyone entering Spain from Andorra.

Currency and Costs

Andorra Euro coins. Image Source: fleur-de-coin.com

Currency

An interesting fact: Prior to 2002, Andorra never had its own official currency. Historically it used the French franc and Spanish peseta but when they were replaced in 2002 by the Euro (€), Andorra adopted that currency.

While Andorra is not a member of the European Union, it has an agreement with the EU to use the Euro (€) as its official currency, and to mint it’s own Euro coins.

Costs

Due to its duty-free status, travelling in Andorra is reasonably cheap (for Europe)! My comfortable room at the decent (mid-range) Hotel Festa Brava cost me €54 per night, while breakfast in a nearby cafe cost me less than €10. Car rental through Goldcar cost me €22 per day (on a multiple day rental) while a main course in a restaurant (with a glass of wine) can cost as little as €10.

A reasonable daily budget allowance for Andorra would be:

Budget: €80
Mid-range: €80-175
Top-end: €175+

Sights

Andorra La Vella

A centre-piece of the old town, Sant Esteve church was built in the 11th-12th century.

Perched high in the eastern Pyrenees at an elevation of 1,023 metres (3,356 feet) above sea level, Andorra La Vella has the distinction of being the highest capital city in Europe. With a population of 22,000, the capital has the feel of a large, relaxed town and is compact enough to explore on foot in one day, with most of the sights concentrated in the old town and most of the shops in the adjacent new town.

Old Town

Sights within the old town include the historic Casa de la Vall, which was built in 1580 as a manor house for a rich family but was later converted for use by the General Council (Parliament of Andorra). In 2011, parliament relocated to the modern (adjacent) General Council building and the Casa was converted into a museum.

“Transparency” by Spanish artist Samantha Bosque.

On the wall of a nearby building is the Trompe l’oeil masterpiece “Transparency“, which was painted by the Spanish artist Samantha Bosque. The painting is an exact facsimile of the square which is located behind the building – hence the title. If you get the angle correct, you can perfectly align the left side of the painting with the top of the mountain in the background.

New Town

“7 Poetes” by Jaume Plensa.

Just below the new parliament building, in Plaça Lidia Armengol Vila is “7 Poetes“, a striking art installation by the Spanish artist Jaume Plensa. The seated seven figures (which are illuminated at night) represent the seven parishes that form Andorra and aim to offer an air of calm and reflection amid the hustle and bustle of the city.

“La Noblesse du Temps” by Salvador Dalí.

How many cities in the world can claim to have their own Salvador Dalí sculpture sitting on the sidewalk? Located in the new part of town, in Placa de la Rotonda (on the banks of the raging Valira river), is La Noblesse du Temps, a 16 foot bronze clock which has been created using Dalí’s unmistakable sinewy, surreal style. The sculpture symbolises the passage of time and features an elongated clock face on a tree trunk, topped by a crown. Ironically, the Cartier watch shop is located in close proximity.

The “Pont de Paris” in downtown Andorra La Vella.

A short walk from Dalí’s surreal installation is the much more sober Pont de Paris, a cable bridge which crosses the (always raging) Gran Valira River.

Outside Andorra La Vella

The majestic Pyrenees Mountain Range, Andorra

The one excellent highway in Andorra takes you from the Spanish border to the French border in under an hour, passing through the urban centres of Sant Julia de Loria, Andorra La Vella, Encamp, Canillo then onto the French border town of Pas de la Casa.

A view of the picturesque Vall d’Incles.

While the drive is scenic (especially towards the French border), it’s the many side roads which lead off the highway, that offer the most spectacular scenery.

Western Andorra

A display of opulent cigarette boxes at the Museu del Tabak in Sant Julià de Lòria.

If you’re arriving from Spain, your introduction to Andorra will be the pleasant town of Sant Julia de Loria (elev: 935 m), which offers plenty of tourist services such as accommodation, restaurants and a beautiful old town.

Am antique cigarette-making machine at the Museu del Tabac.

In the heart of the old town is the engaging Museu del Tabac, which is housed in an old tobacco factory and tells the story of the local tobacco industry.

A display at the Museu del Tabac.

Prior to tourism and financial services, tobacco was an important industry for Andorra, with cigarettes being sold (and smuggled) into France and Spain.

The magnificent scenery on route CS-140 as I wind my way up to the “Coll de la Gallina” mountain pass.

South of Sant Julia de Loria a scenic side road, CS-140, winds 12 km up into the high heavens, climbing 975 metres to the mountain pass of Coll de la Gallina (elev: 1,910 m), which forms the border between Andorra and Spain. This route features steep gradients and forms stage 9 of the Tour de France and is the most popular form of punishment for visiting cyclists and Tour de France wannabe’s.

Route CS-142, a narrow, steep, one-lane and sometimes icy road which climbs up to the “Coll de la Gallina”.

As you climb, the CS-140 becomes the CS-142, at which point the road becomes very narrow, one-way, with steep drop-offs and no guard rails. This is not a route for less-confident drivers and on the day I drove it, there was the added challenge presented by patches of black, slippery ice.

“Road Closed Ahead”. The road on the Spanish side of the “Coll de la Gallina” was impassable.

To top it off, once I reached the pass, the road on the Spanish side was impassable, laying buried beneath metres of snow and ice. My only option was to do a U-turn and proceed back down the mountain, travelling the wrong way on the narrow, one way road. Luckily, I was the only fool on the road so I didn’t encounter any oncoming traffic.

The River Os cascades down a narrow gorge alongside route CG6.

Just north of Sant Julia de Loria, route CG6 follows the course of the narrow river – Rui d’Os – which roars down from higher elevations through a tight, winding gorge. The road connects the main highway to the Spanish border (immediately noticeable due to the sudden deterioration in road quality) then continues onto the sleepy Spanish town of Os de Civis. An interesting fact regarding ‘Os’ is that it is cut-off from the rest of Spain and is only accessible through Andorra along this route.

Pyrenees Mountain Range, Andorra.

While on route CG6, you’ll pass through the village of Bixessarri, where you have the option of taking two narrow, winding roads which switch-back their way up either side of the valley formed by the River Os.

The tiny chapel of Sant Joan d’Aixàs sits atop a ridge which offers panoramic views in all directions.

Route CS-112 climbs up to a ridge which is topped with a small chapel, Sant Joan d’Aixàs, from which you have magnificent views of all of southern Andorra. Climbing up even higher on the other side of the valley, route CS-111 is an alternative route to the pass at Coll de la Gallina.

The very narrow (but two way) route CS-112.

Northern Andorra

The picturesque village of Ordino.

From Andorra La Vella route CG3 follows a gentle valley north to the junction town of La Massana, before branching off to the historic town of Ordino. The town was first mentioned in documents in the 9th century and is today considered the cultural centre of Andorra.

Car in lane way, Ordino village, Andorra.

Andorran drivers are adept at driving at speed through tight lane ways such as this one in Ordino.

The old town was constructed during the 12-13th centuries with narrow, cobbled, pedestrian-friendly streets. Andorrans are use to driving in tight spaces so it was no surprise to see drivers zipping through the narrow lane-ways.

The narrow lane ways of Ordino village.

Ordino is a popular base for people skiing in the Vallnord region and offers an abundance of accommodation and restaurant options.

The Església de Sant Martí de la Cortinada was originally built in the 11th century.

Continuing along CG3 north of Ordino, you’ll soon reach the village of La Cortinada, whose main claim is the beautiful Església de Sant Martí de la Cortinada, a stone church which was originally built in the 11th-12th century and later rebuilt in the 17th century.

A panoramic view from the Arcalis ski resort (the road tunnel can be seen below).

Continuing up the valley, CG3 becomes CS-380 at which point the road commences a steep climb through numerous hair-pin turns then enters a tunnel before arriving at the chairlift station of the Vallnord Arcalis ski resort.

The Vallnord ski resort consists of three resorts which are (from north to south):

Arcalis
Arinsal
Pal

Arinsal and Pal are linked by chairlift while Arcalis is a separate resort.

The historic village of Pal.

Back at the junction town of La Massana, route CG4 provides access to the linked ski resorts of Arinsal and Pal. En-route to the Pal resort, the road passes through the quaint and historic village of the same name. With oodles of charm and a population of just 235 souls, Pal is worth exploring before you start the climb up the mountain to the Pal ski resort.

“No Through Road” – the road on the Spanish side of Port de Cabús was impassable.

Just when you think the road couldn’t possibly climb any higher, CG4 keeps climbing up to the mountain pass of Port de Cabús (elev: 2302 m) which marks the border with Spain. An (un-maintained) road continues into Spain but during my visit it was completely impassable due to a thick covering of snow and ice.

A novel way of walking the dogs at the Pal ski resort.

In the village of Erts, CG5 branches off of CG4, providing access to the lofty Arinsal ski resort. This is yet another spectacular alpine drive offering more incredible views. The windy road climbs through numerous hair-pin turns before terminating at the Arinsal resort (elev: 1900 m).

More incredible views – this time from the Arinsal ski resort.

Eastern Andorra

Majestic peaks line route CG2 near the French border.

The highway east of Andorra La Vella (CG2) passes through the busy towns of Encamp and Canillo then onto a junction where you have the choice of taking the scenic high road (yes please!) or the (subterranean) low road through a tunnel to the border town of Pas de la Casa. The views from the mountain pass on the high road are jaw-dropping and should not be missed. If you’re in a rush, the tunnel is much faster but far less scenic.

“A window onto the world” – a view from route CG2 on the way to Pas de la Casa.

Despite its location in a stunningly beautiful valley, surrounded on all sides by towering peaks, Pas de la Casa is essentially one large duty-free shopping centre for French day-tripper’s. The border is formed by the narrow Ariège river which flows through the town centre. Giant petrol stations on the outskirts of town are always busy with French motorists who cross to fill up at prices far below those in France.

A stone bridge crosses the River Incles in the pretty Vall d’Incles.

A worthwhile side trip in this part of Andorra is along the narrow country lane which follows the River Incles (Riu d’Incles) into the picturesque Vall d’Incles. The turn-off from the highway is between the villages of El Tartar and Soldeu after which you drive on a one lane (but two way) road into the charming valley.

The picture-postcard perfect Vall d’Incles.

Accommodation

With more than 300 properties, Andorra offers an abundance of accommodation options from cheap hostels to 5-star hotels. Accommodation can be found throughout the country but is concentrated in the capital. A good place to start your search is the accommodation directory on the Visit Andorra website.

While in Andorra la Vella, I stayed at the mid-range Hotel Festa Brava, which offers reasonably priced (€54 per night), comfortable rooms in the heart of the old town. From the hotel it’s a very short walk to the restaurants, cafes and bars of the old town, the main shopping street and most tourist attractions. As with everywhere else in the capital, car parking spaces are non-existent but the hotel has an arrangement with the parking garage at the nearby Centre Comercial Pyrénées, which allows guests to park overnight at a 50% discount.

Eating Out

Artwork at the Papanico restaurant.

Andorra is home to about 400 restaurants, and being surrounded by France and Spain – two of the world’s foremost gourmet destinations – there’s no shortage of fine cuisine on offer, especially in the capital. Eating fine quality food in Andorra does not mean emptying your wallet with humble cafes serving delicious ‘fixed menu’ three-course meals for less than €15. The Eating page on the Visit Andorra website provides an overview of Andorran cuisine and a restaurant directory.

My go-to place for breakfast was the Cafeteria La Terrassa, which is located on the third floor of the Centre Comercial Pyrénées (shopping mall) in downtown Andorra la Vella. Open 7 days a week, the cafeteria offers sweet and savoury crepes, fine french pastries, freshly squeezed (Valencia) orange juice and wonderfully strong coffee.

My favourite bar in Andorra La Vella was the lively Hostal & Pub Barri Antic which is located opposite the Parliament building in the old town. The pub, which is a favourite haunt for anyone on a biking trip to Andorra, offers quaffable craft beers and wonderful cocktails which are always served with olives or freshly popped popcorn, while upstairs, the hostal offers very cheap (€25), tastefully decorated rooms. In the early evening, outdoor tables fill the narrow lane-way and are always abuzz with locals and tourists enjoying the ambience. From here, most restaurants are a short stroll, making this an ideal place to start your evening out in the old town!

For dinner in the old town, the very memorable Restaurant Versailles offers gourmet food, impeccable service and a very agreeable ambience. I arrived without a reservation and was seated immediately. The friendly owner then presented me with a glass of a Cuvée on the house and some olives, then provided a comprehensive explanation of the menu. I ordered steak, which was served with mashed potatoes and fresh, wild asparagus – it tasted divine!

Delicious, good value meals can be found in many restaurants such as the Restaurant La Casa del Boeuf.

Nearby, the Restaurant La Casa del Boeuf offers decent French cuisine which is prepared by the friendly French chef – Joel. Daily special menus allow diners to choose one of four main courses which are served with a glass of house wine for just €10.50! The ‘Steak-frites‘ with red wine is highly recommended and (at €10.50) a real bargain.

Visa Requirements

A souvenir passport stamp, ‘Estampa Turista’, is available from the immigration office at the border.

The visa policy of Andorra is wonderfully simple – every passport holder on this planet is free to enter without needing a visa! However, since the country is only accessible via the Schengen countries of Spain or France, entrance is not possible without entering the Schengen area first and the Schengen visa rules can therefore be regarded to apply de-facto.

If you are travelling on a passport which requires a Schengen visa, you should know that because Andorra is not part of the Schengen area, a multiple entry visa is required to re-enter the Schengen area when leaving Andorra.

Immigration Formalities

Upon entering Andorra, there are no immigration formalities. If you wish to obtain a souvenir passport stamp, you can do so at any of the border posts.

Getting There

An Andorra Welcome Sign.

Air

Because of its impossibly mountainous terrain, there is no airport in Andorra. The two de-facto airports serving the principality are Spain’s Barcelona Airport and France’s Toulouse airport. Regular daily bus connections operate between these gateways and the bus station in Andorra La Vella, a journey of approximately 3 hours from either city. For details on the buses please refer to the ‘Getting There – Bus‘ section below.

Road

The only highway in Andorra cuts diagonally through the country from the Spanish to the French border.

Due mainly to the mountainous nature of Andorra, there is only one road entering the principality from France and only one (widely-used) road entering Andorra from Spain.

Almost all entry into the country happens at one of these two points which can be very congested when exiting Andorra as Spanish and French customs officials perform thorough checks on all the happy shoppers leaving the duty-free paradise that is Andorra.

Bus

The modern and efficient bus station in Andorra La Vella.

Comfortable coaches provide regular connections from Andorra to both Spain and France.Regular international buses connect Andorra to destinations in Spain and France. Following is a list of current operators (with links to online booking pages):

Spain

Direct Bus: Offers 10 daily return services between Andorra and Barcelona Airport – with some services also stopping at Barcelona (Sants) bus station. Timetables, fares and bookings available here.
ANDBUS (Andorra By Bus): Offers 7 daily return services between Andorra and Barcelona Airport. Timetables, fares and bookings available h ere.
Montmantell Bus: Offers 14 daily return services between Andorra and the nearby Spanish town of La Seu d’Urgell. The current timetable can be viewed here.
Montmantell Bus: Offers 6 daily return services between Andorra and the Spanish city of LLeida. The current timetable can be viewed here.
Montmantell Bus: Offers 1 daily return service between Andorra and the Spanish coastal region of Costa Daurada (i.e. Tarragona). The current timetable can be viewed here.

Comfortable coaches provide regular connections from Andorra to both Spain and France.

France

ANDBUS (Andorra By Bus): Offers 3 daily return services between Andorra and Toulouse Airport. Timetables, fares and bookings available h ere.
Montmantell Bus: Offers 2 daily return services between Andorra and the nearby French town of L’Hospitalet. The current timetable can be viewed here.

Smaller, faster minibuses also operate between Andorra and Barcelona.

Getting Around

Roads in Andorra are generally in excellent condition.

Bus

The national bus route map is available on the Interurbana website.

Public buses throughout Andorra are operated by the Cooperativa Interurbana Andorrana, providing regular connections between Andorra La Vella and the major urban centres. There are currently six routes in operation, with comprehensive route plans and timetables available from their website along with fares and details on season passes.

The company provides a handy route map (displayed above) which can downloaded, printed then folded to carry in your pocket.

Taxi

Taxis can be found on ranks in Andorra La Vella and are reasonably priced with a trip from the bus station to the old town costing about €5.

Rental Car

Exploring the Vallnord region in my rental car from Goldcar rental.

Many of the most scenic routes in Andorra are not covered by public transport. If you wish to maximise your time and fully explore this magnificent principality then hiring a rental car is the best option.

The national highway winds its way across Andorra, connecting the Principality to Spain and France.

If you’re staying in the capital, you’ll find almost no free parking, but ample municipal parking stations which charge around €28 for overnight parking. Most hotels have ‘validation’ arrangements with their nearest parking station, saving guests around 50%.

The Andorra license plate on my rental car.

If you’re driving into France or Spain, its worth noting that fuel is cheaper in Andorra (€0.20 cents per litre cheaper than France and €0.10 cents per litre cheaper than Spain) and this is evident by the number of French-registered cars filling up at the many service stations on the Andorran side of the French border.

In the distance, the ski slopes of the Vallnord resort looks like a giant white snake slivering along the side of the mountain.

For professional service and competitive rates, I would recommend using Goldcar Rental whose office is a short walk from the main bus station.

Other rental agents in Andorra La Vella include:

That’s the end of my Andorra Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Åland Islands Travel Guide

7 years ago

Darren McLean

Åland Islands Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Åland Islands Travel Guide!

Date Visited: May 2018

Introduction

Until recently, I had no idea of the existence of the Åland Islands – an autonomous, demilitarised, Swedish-speaking territory of Finland. After visiting them, I have become a fan but whenever I mention them, people have no idea where in the world I’m talking about.

Unlike other European territories, such as Denmark’s Faroe Islands or the UK’s Jersey, Guernsey or Isle of Man, the Åland Islands remain well off the radar.

Souvenir Åland Islands flags on sale in Mariehamn.

The only people who seem to be aware of Åland’s existence are its neighbours – the Swedes and Finns, who arrive in droves every summer to relax and chill-out on one of the many peaceful islands which can be found throughout the archipelago.

Åland islands Welcome sign.

The territory has its own government, produces its own stamps, issues its own passports (although, unlike other territories, the passport of the Åland Islands does not indicate a different nationality, with all holders being Finnish nationals), has its own internet top-level domain (.AX) and its own vehicle license plate.

The Åland Islands number plate on my rental car.

While Åland is an archipelago of more than 26,000 islands (yes, you’ve read that correctly), only 65 islands are inhabited. The mainland is known locally as Fasta Åland (“Main Island”) and its here you’ll find 90% of the population living on 70% of the total land area and its the focus of this travel guide.

There are an estimated 15,000 Roe deer on the Åland Islands.

If you’re looking to visit a place well off the standard tourist trail, a destination offering a unique culture, centuries of history, wildlife and beautiful nature then the Åland Islands are a place to add to your bucket list.

Location

Åland Islands

Located like a stepping stone between Sweden and Finland, the Åland Islands are an archipelago in the Baltic Sea. Fasta Åland is separated from the coast of Sweden by 38 kilometres (24 miles) of open water to the west. In the east, the Åland archipelago is contiguous with the Finnish Archipelago Sea.

Typical Åland landscape.

This autonomous territory lies at the entrance to the strategically important Gulf of Bothnia, the northern arm of the Baltic sea which separates Sweden from Finland.

The flag of the Åland Islands (centre) surrounded by the flags of its all important, powerful neighbours – Sweden and Finland.

History

Displays at the Åland Museum detail the history of the islands.

The first settlers arrived on the Åland Islands more than 6000 years ago, after the islands had begun to re-emerge from the sea following the end of the last ice age. Both Stone Age and Bronze Age people inhabited the archipelago, obtaining food by hunting seals and birds, fishing, and gathering plants.

During the Middle ages, Kastelholm Castle played a key role in the expansion of the Swedish Empire.

Due to its strategic location between Sweden and Finland, Åland was an important harbour and trading centre during the Viking age, and evidence has been found of six fortresses from that time. The islands were Christianised during the 12th century by Swedish missionaries and later became a part of the Swedish Empire, which exercised territorial control over much of the Baltic region during the 17th and early 18th centuries.

The walls of Bomarsund fortress were constructed using giant hexagonal-shaped granite blocks.

In September of 1809, following Russia’s victory over Sweden in the Finnish war, Sweden signed the Treaty of Fredrikshamn surrendering control of the Åland Islands, along with Finland.

The Russians then incorporated Åland into the larger, semi-autonomous Grand Duchy of Finland (the predecessor to modern Finland).

During the treaty negotiations, the Swedes failed to secure a provision from the Russians that the islands would never be fortified, which was important to the Swedes as the islands lie close to the Port of Stockholm.

Russia began fortification in the 1830’s, with the building of the gigantic Bomarsund fortress in Sund, which was then destroyed in 1854 during the Crimean War by Anglo-French troops.

The coast of Sweden is just 38 kilometres from Degersand beach.

Following Russia’s February Revolution in 1917, Finland declared independence from the Russian Empire. At this time, the Åland Islanders worked towards having their territory ceded to Sweden, their historical motherland.

During this dispute, a petition was signed by 95% of Ålanders who favoured secession from Finland and integration with Sweden. For the next four years, Sweden and Finland disputed the issue until in 1921, when Åland was given its status as an autonomous, demilitarised and neutral province within the Republic of Finland by a decision of the League of Nations.

On the 9th of June, 1922, the Ålanders elected a parliament, and this day is now celebrated as “Åland Autonomy Day“.

Although Åland joined the EU along with Finland in 1995, it was granted a number of exemptions, including duty-free tax laws that allowed the essential ferry services between the islands and mainland Finland and Sweden to continue operating profitably.

Today Åland is a Swedish-speaking enclave within Finland with Ålanders being more aware (and more interested) in events in Stockholm than Helsinki.

Flag

The flag of the Åland Islands.

In 1954, Åland received its own flag, which is a Swedish flag over-layed with a red cross.

The flag of the Åland Islands is a Swedish flag over-layed with a red cross.

Why a red cross? While today, blue and white are the Finnish colours, previously red and yellow (from the Finnish coat of arms) were used to symbolise Finland.

The flag of the Åland Islands flying outside parliament in Mariehamn.

Money & Costs

The Euro is the official currency of the Åland Islands.

Money

While the official currency of the Åland Islands is the Euro (€), the Swedish Krona is unofficially accepted by most businesses.

ATM’s (labelled as “OTTO“) are available in Mariehamn and can be found outside the four bank branches on the main shopping street, Torggatan.

Costs

What kind of daily travel budget do you need for the Åland Islands? Despite being tax-free, travelling on the Åland Islands is slightly more expensive than in neighbouring Sweden or Finland. As a rough guide:

Budget: €125
Mid-range: €125-250
Top-end: €250+

Philately

Maritime themes are popular subjects on Åland stamps.

Besides issuing its own passports, the Åland Islands also issues their own stamps which are popular with collectors worldwide. About sixteen sets of stamps are issued each year by Åland Post and can be purchased online via their website or from the main Post Office in Mariehamn. Being a maritime country, common themes include ships, fish and seascapes.

Åland Island stamps can be purchased from the main Post Office in Mariehamn.

Maypoles

Maypole at the Jan Karlsgården Open-Air Museum.

While travelling around Åland, it’s hard to miss the giant Maypoles which loom on the horizon and are a centre-piece of every village.

Diagram of a typical Åland Islands Maypole.

Despite their English name (the poles are known in Swedish as Mid-summer poles), they are decorated and raised as part of the all-important mid-summer festivities which take place each year at the time of the Summer Solstice (around the 19th-25th of June).

A Maypole painted in the colours of the Åland flag being prepared for the upcoming mid-summer festivities.

The poles, which are painted in bright colours and decorated with green leaves and flowers, are an ancient symbol of fertility and greenery and previously served as a tribute to the sun. The poles remain in place all year round until they are lowered and re-decorated in time for the next solstice.

Red, Red Everywhere

Almost all wooden buildings on the Åland Islands have been coated in ‘Falu Red’ paint.

Most houses, structures (and all windmills) on Åland are painted the same red colour, and for good reason. The paint, which is called ‘Falu Red’, contains a pigment which is derived from ‘red soil’, which is a by-product of the copper mining process.

Seeing (Falu) red everywhere on the Åland Islands.

The pigment gets its name from a well-known Swedish mine at Falun, in the province of Dalarna. It was discovered that the minerals in ‘red soil’ help preserve wood from rot, so it was turned into a weather-resistant paint and applied to buildings all over Scandinavia.

There are many windmills on the Åland Islands – all of them painted in ‘Falu Red’.

Sightseeing

There are just a handful of sites to visit on Åland with the quiet capital, Mariehamn, offering a couple of worthwhile museums and the municipality of Sund offering a medieval castle (Kastelholm Castle) and a destroyed Russian fortress (Bomarsund). All municipalities feature at least one imposing, historical church and a Maypole or two.

The landscapes and seascapes are the real attraction on the islands and it’s these that draw the Swedish and Finnish tourists each year.

Mariehamn

St. George church in Mariehamn.

Named after the Empress of Russia, Mariehamn is the centre of Åland and home to nearly half of the territories population (30,000). Feeling more like a sleepy village than a capital, Mariehamn is home to the Åland Parliament, which lies on the one small shopping street (Torggatan), where you’ll also find the banks, post office, restaurants, café’s and the Åland Museum & Åland Art Museum.

A display at the Åland museum in Mariehamn.

Located across the road from Parliament, the Åland Museum traces the history of the islands from prehistoric times up until the present day while the Art Museum houses a permanent collection of local art as well as interesting temporary exhibitions.

A photographic collage of Ålanders at the Åland art museum in Mariehamn.

Also in town, near to the ferry docks at the West harbour (Västerhamn), is the impressive Åland Maritime Museum, which offers a comprehensive history of the islands’ maritime heritage. Åland has a very deep-rooted tradition of seafaring, and this beautifully presented museum is the perfect place to get a sense of its maritime history.

A display at the Åland Maritime museum in Mariehamn.

Usually docked behind the museum is the four-mast barque Pommern, which was built in Glasgow in 1903 and was used to carry grain from Australia (Spencer Gulf) to harbours in England or Ireland until the start of World War II. At the time of my visit the Pommern had been moved slightly upriver awaiting completion of a new museum dock which was under construction.

Outside Mariehamn

From Mariehamn, an excellent network of roads crosses the mainland connecting the capital to the following municipalities:

Jomala
Finström
Lemland
Saltvik
Hammarland
Sund
Eckerö
Geta
Vårdö
Lumparland

Sund

Of these municipalities, the highlight for tourists is Sund which is home to the two main sights on Åland; – Kastelholm Castle and Bomarsund Fortress.

Kastelholm Castle

During the Middle ages, Kastelholm Castle played a key role in the expansion of the Swedish Empire.

The main tourist attraction outside of Mariehamn, Kastelholm Castle was constructed in the 14th century, originally on a small island surrounded by moats filled with water and planted with several rows of poles.

During the Middle Ages, the castle played a key role in consolidating Swedish authority throughout the Baltic region. The castle was gutted and ruined in 1745. Recently the castle has been renovated and is now an important part of the Åland tourist circuit in Åland.

A farm building and windmill at the Jan Karlsgården Outdoor Museum.

Next-door to the castle is the Jan Karlsgården Outdoor Museum which includes many 19th century Åland farm houses which have been relocated here from different parts of the archipelago.

The museum contains twenty different types of buildings, providing the visitor with a comprehensive view of the life and building traditions that existed on Åland at the time.

Bomarsund Fortress

Only partial pieces of the impressive walls which once surrounded Bomarsund fortress remain in place today.

After Sweden lost the Finnish War (1808–09) to Russia, the Russians took control of the Åland Islands and in 1830 started construction on the immense Bomarsund fortress.

The fortress was built in accordance with the orders of Emperor Nicholas I and was constructed by a small army of indentured labourers from various cultural backgrounds across the Russian empire (their separate cemeteries are located nearby).

A town, Gamla Skarpans, was built and another settlement, Nya Skarpans, was established inside the fortress. However, the fortress, designed for 5000 men and 500 cannons, was never finished because in 1854 during the Crimean War English and French troops invaded and blew it up.

Today, all that remains are fragments of the immense walls – all of which were constructed using uniquely carved hexagonal-shaped granite blocks.

The Sund church dates from medieval times.

Also in Sund is the impressive, medieval era (14th century), Sund church which is dedicated to John the Baptist and is the largest church on the Åland Islands.

Hammarland

Originally built in the 13th century, Hammarland church, dedicated to Saint Catherine of Alexandria.

In the municipality of Hammarland, you’ll find the impressive stone, medieval-era Hammarland church which is dedicated to Saint Catherine of Alexandria. Home to the largest cemetery on the Åland Islands, the church was originally built in the 13th century but later destroyed by fire, it was then totally reconstructed in the 1830’s.

Saltvik

The factory shop at the Taffel Potato Chip factory.

While driving through the municipality of Saltvik, you’ll pass the Taffel Potato Chip factory, which includes a shop where you can buy discounted snacks. A perfect stop for hungry travelers!

Finström

The Stallhagen Brewery offers tours, beer tastings and superb food.

In the municipality of Finström, you’ll find Godby – the 2nd largest town (pop: 1,300) in Åland. Located a short drive west of Godby on route 4 is the Stallhagen Brewery (see the ‘Eating out‘ section below for more detail), where you can organise a tour of the brewery. The food and beer here is not to be missed!

Vårdö

The medieval-era Vårdö church.

The island of Vårdö is reached by a short cable-ferry from neighbouring Sund. This is the end of the main road network with travel to islands further east requiring a longer ferry journey.

Besides lots of rural scenes and beautiful seascapes, Vårdö church is a highlight of a visit to this sleepy island. The church is dedicated to the apostle Matthias and was built from stone in the 15th century.

My rental car on a Cable ferry to Vårdö island.

Eckerö

Eckerö church is dedicated to St. Lawrence.

The most western municipality, the highlights of Eckerö are its impressive church (first built in 1280 and dedicated to St. Lawrence) and Degersand, the most beautiful sand beach on the Åland Islands where you have accommodation options.

Located on the south coast of Eckerö, Degersand is the most beautiful sand beach on the Åland Islands.

Lumparland

The steeple of Lumparland church, the oldest surviving wooden church in the Åland islands.

Lumparland is the smallest municipality on mainland Åland, supporting a population of 396. The Church of Lumparland, dedicated to St. Andrew, is the oldest surviving wooden church in Åland, dating back to the 1720’s.

The red circle indicates the body of water known as the Lumparn, a 9 km wide meteor impact crater. Source: somerikko.net

Lumparland borders the eastern edge of a body of water known as the Lumparn, a billion-year-old, 9 km wide meteor impact crater. I’m glad I wasn’t around to witness that!

Accommodation

My comfortable room at the Hotel Arkipelag in Mariehamn.

There are many accommodation options on the Åland Islands from deluxe hotels to camping grounds and everything else in between, all of which can be found on the official VisitÅland.com website.

I stayed on the waterfront in Mariehamn at the Hotel Arkipelag which was wonderful. The hotel offers spacious, stylish rooms with harbour views, an excellent breakfast buffet (which always featured a gourmet selection of fine Åland produce), a bar and casino and everything else you would expect from a four star hotel.

The Australian flag flew outside the Hotel Arkipelag for the duration of my stay.

One thing I didn’t expect was to walk outside the hotel on my first morning and see the Australian flag fluttering in the cool, crisp breeze. The only other flags flying were those of the neighbouring Scandinavian countries and the Åland Islands. I asked the receptionist why they were flying the Australian flag and she confirmed my suspicion that it was to honour my visit. So – if you wish to stay somewhere that’ll fly your flag and leave you feeling like a VIP, then I recommend the Hotel Arkipelag.

Eating Out

The Åland Islands are one of the few places in Europe where you’ll find none of the regular international fast food restaurants. The only nod to fast food is one restaurant from the Finnish burger chain, Hesburger, who offer the ‘Double Burger’, which looks exactly like a Big Mac.

Mariehamn

Many tempting offerings to be found at Bagarstugan Café in Mariehamn.

Mariehamn is a wonderfully compact, pedestrian friendly capital and most restaurants, café’s and bars are located a short walk from each other. My go-to place while in town (and the best café I found anywhere in Åland) is the very cosy and inviting Bagarstugan Café & Vin.

Everything here is divine, from the coffee, cakes, food, service, décor and ambiance and I believe the world would be a much better place if every town had a Bagarstugan café!

Exterior of Bagarstugan café in Mariehamn.

Bagarstugan is strictly a daytime operation, however there are plenty of nocturnal dining options a few steps away. One of my favourites was the lively upstairs restaurant at Indigo Restaurant & Bar. Both the food and drinks selection were superb, with the talented bar staff able to create any cocktail one desires (the Pisco Sours were the best this side of Peru).

Located between Indigo and Bagarstugan is Dino’s Bar & Grill, which is an American-style sports bar featuring live music and a menu loaded with American classics (hamburgers, ribs etc).

Outside Mariehamn

Beer tasting at the Stallhagen Brewery.

Almost all dining/ bar options are located in Mariehamn but one worth journeying to (15 kilometres north of the capital) is the fantastic Stallhagen Brewery which is located a short drive west of Godby on route 4.

Stallhagen was the first micro-brewery on Åland and today produces a dozen different types of craft beers from pale ale’s to darker stouts to berry-infused (blueberry ale or raspberry stout) concoctions – all of which are very quaffable.

One of their more popular beers is Honungsöl, which includes local honey. The manager told me as a result of the popularity of this beer, Åland farmers are now increasing honey production to meet the demand from the brewery.

Home-made sausages are perfectly complimented with a selection of craft beers at Stallhagen Brewery.

The brewery restaurant produces an amazing selection of dishes which are nicely paired with different beers by the friendly, enthusiastic staff. I returned more than once for their lunch special which was home-made sausages served with mashed potatoes and sauerkraut.

This was paired with a small selection of their beers which were served in tasting glasses. By the end of my stay I had sampled their full range!

Åland Islands Travel Guide: Åland Pancake with Stout Beer at the Skallhagen Brewery, Åland Islands.

An Åland pancake paired with two different stouts at the Stallhagen brewery.

The brewery is a good place to try the famous Åland pancake which is semolina based and pairs very well with a full-bodied stout.

Visa Requirements

Being a territory of Finland, the visa policy of the Schengen area applies to the Åland Islands.

Immigration Formalities

All sea and air connections are with neighbouring Schengen members (Finland, Sweden or Estonia), hence there are no immigration checks upon arrival and no passport stamps issued.

Getting There

Air & sea routes to the Åland Islands. Source: VisitAland.com

Air & sea routes to the Åland Islands. Source: www.Aland.com

Air

Flights to the Åland Islands arrive at the sleepy Mariehamn airport, which is located 3 kilometres (2 miles) north-west of the capital in the municipality of Jomala.

On the evening I arrived from Stockholm (on the last flight of the day), there were no taxis at the airport so I called for one using the free public phone. In the meantime, everyone else had left the terminal which left me and the security guard, who announced he was going home and left me alone inside the terminal to wait for my taxi. Crime is unheard of on the islands and the Ålanders are very laid-back and relaxed.

The following airlines provide connections with the outside world:

Air Leap – flies to/ from Stockholm-Arlanda.
Finnair – flies to/ from Helsinki and Turku.

Airport Transport

There are no airport bus services while a taxi from Mariehamns Taxi will cost between €15-20 to downtown.

Ferry

Most visitors to the islands arrive by sea from either Sweden, Finland or Estonia. Currently four ferry companies provide regular international services to the islands:

Eckerö Linjen – Provides connections between the Åland Islands and Grisselhamn (Sweden)
Finnlines – Provides connections between the Åland Islands and Kapellskär (Sweden) and Naantali (Finland).
Tallink Silja – Provides connections between the Åland Islands and Stockholm (Sweden), Turku (Finland), Helsinki (Finland) and Tallinn (Estonia).
Viking Line – Provides connections between the Åland Islands and Stockholm (Sweden), Kapellskär (Sweden), Turku (Finland), Helsinki (Finland).

Getting Around

Bus

Buses connect Mariehamn to most parts of the ‘mainland’ and are operated by Williams Buss and Viking Lines Buss. The following routes allow visitors to reach most parts of the archipelago:

Route 1 – Is operated by Williams Buss and connects Mariehamn to Hammarland then Ekerö.
Route 2 – Is operated by Viking Lines Buss and connects Mariehamn to Godby then Geta.
Route 3 – Is operated by Viking Lines Buss and connects Mariehamn to Godby then Saltvik.
Route 4 – Is operated by Viking Lines Buss and connects Mariehamn to Godby then Sund then Vårdö.
Route 5 – Is operated by Williams Buss and connects Mariehamn to Lemland then Lumparland.
Route 6 – This circuitous route is operated by Williams Buss, connecting Mariehamn to Godby, Gölby, Emkarby, Pålsböle then back to Godby then Mariehamn.

All buses depart from the Bussplan in downtown Mariehamn. You can view route information, timetables and current fares on the Ålandstrafiken website.

Ferry

A map showing domestic ferry routes. Source: Ålandstrafiken

There are four domestic ferry routes which are operated by Ålandstrafiken; the Northern line (Norra linjen), the Southern line (Södra linjen), the Cross line (Tvärgående linjen) and the Föglö line (Föglölinjen). You can view route information, timetables and current fares on their website.

The Captain on the bridge of a Cable ferry on Vårdö Island.

In addition to these, a number of ‘cable ferries‘ (which run on a fixed cable) provide a connection between some of the islands.

The Cable ferries run on a submerged cable, which is strung between islands.

The Cable ferries are free of charge and run on demand (i.e. it only takes one vehicle to initiate a crossing) with one captain telling me that these state-run ferries never stop running and are hugely expensive (all that fuel!).

Crossing to Vårdö island on a cable ferry.

Taxi

A taxi in Mariehamn, nice to ride but expensive.

Mariehamns Taxi can be contacted locally on 018-10066 or from abroad on +358 18 26 000. With a flag fall of €6 and a per kilometre charge of €3, taxis are not cheap.

Rental Car

My rental car on the Åland Islands.

The best way to maximise your time on the islands is to rent a car. Many of the remote back-roads are not served by public transport and since traffic is light and the roads are (generally) in excellent condition, you can cover most of the archipelago in a few days.

Rundbergs (Tel: +358 (0) 18 525 505) are the only rental agent on the Åland Islands and are also the local representative for Europcar & Hertz. Their office is hidden away inside the ST1 service station, which is located on the waterfront in Mariehamn. You do not need to visit them as they will deliver your car to you.

Being a monoploy operator, rates are never going to be favourable and a compact car will set you back €82 per day (for multiple days hire) or €427 per week. If you wish to hire a car for just the day, they offer a special rate of €68.

This is the end of my Åland Islands Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Montserrat Travel Guide

7 years ago

Darren McLean

Montserrat is a modern-day, tropical Pompeii!

Montserrat Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Montserrat Travel Guide!

Date Visited: June 2018

Introduction

Feel like visiting a modern-day Caribbean Pompeii? The volcanic island of Montserrat offers a very different travel experience from the usual sun, sand and beaches.

The former Government House in Plymouth lies abandoned, destroyed by pyroclastic flows.

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, tiny Montserrat is slowly dusting itself off after recent volcanic eruptions decimated the southern part of the island (including the capital Plymouth), covering large areas in ash, mud and other volcanic debris.

Trolleys, covered in volcano ash, remain where they were left in the former Angelo’s supermarket in Plymouth.

While the Soufrière Hills Volcano is far from dormant (there has been no considerable activity since 2012) Montserrat is open for tourism and visitors are once again returning to the island that, due to its rich Irish heritage, bills itself as the ‘Emerald Isle of the Caribbean‘.

This mud and ash filled bathroom at the former Montserrat Springs hotel is definitely out-of-order.

Montserrat is one of 14 British Overseas Territories, governed by a locally elected Premier and Parliament and is the only place outside of Ireland where St. Patrick’s Day is a public holiday (and the biggest festival of the year).

Inundated by pyroclastic flows, only the roof of this building remains visible.

Whilst the island has a few nice (black sand) beaches, the main draw today is ‘volcano tourism‘, with a highlight of any visit being a tour of the fascinating, abandoned capital of Plymouth, which lies entombed under many metres of volcanic debris, inside a restricted exclusion zone.

The former ‘Economy Bakery’ in Plymouth.

Plymouth remains the capital of Montserrat, making it the only ghost town that serves as the capital of a political territory.

Files and paperwork remain where they were left in an abandoned office in Plymouth.

Due to the ongoing volcanic threat, the southern two-thirds of the island lie inside a restricted exclusion zone, leaving residents and tourists with the lush, green, northern third of the island to enjoy.

An abandoned office in Plymouth.

The population of the island has dropped from 12,000 at the time of the eruption to 4,900 today, with many former residents taking up UK resettlement packages.

The concrete supports on the roof of the former government administration building in Plymouth were built to withstand a category 5 hurricane but the building was no match against a volcanic eruption.

For a period of ten years from 1979 – 1989, the island was a magnet for many famous musicians who came to record at the legendary AIR Studios Montserrat, which was created by Sir George Martin – the renown English record producer who signed The Beatles and produced every album they made until they disbanded (see the ‘Musical Legacy‘ section below for more).

A photo of Paul and Linda McCartney on Montserrat.

Location

Plymouth, Montserrat

Located in the Caribbean Sea, Montserrat is part of the Leeward islands. Its nearest neighbours are Guadeloupe (86 km) to the south-east, Antigua (55 km) to the north-east and Nevis (62 km) to the north-west.

Flying over the north-west coast of Montserrat.

History

Artwork at the Hilltop Coffee House showing a typical Montserrat landscape.

Like neighbouring islands, the original inhabitants of Montserrat were native Arawak and Carib Indians who migrated up through the Antilles chain from South America. Archaeological digs in the Centre Hills area of the island have found evidence of human habitation extending back to 4000 BC.

As with every other island in the Caribbean, the first European to arrive was Christopher Columbus during his second voyage to the New World in 1493. Columbus named the island after the Virgin Mary and the Monastery of Montserrat, which is located in the hills outside of Barcelona, Spain.

Spain never attempted to take control of the island and it wasn’t until 1632 that the first Irish settlers arrived from neighbouring St. Kitts, some 80 km (50 miles) to the North. The Catholic settlers came to the island to escape Protestant intolerance and soon more Irish from Virginia joined the settlers. By 1648 there were ‘1,000 white families’ on the island, the vast majority of whom had a connection to Ireland.

The Irish established plantations and, being historical allies of France (and not being friendly towards the English), invited France to claim the island in 1666. The French took control but never sent any troops to protect the island, leaving it exposed to an English invasion, which took place later that same year.

Once the British gained control of the island, they imported African slaves to work on the various sugar plantations. Once slavery was abolished in 1833, a Quaker, Joseph Sturge, purchased a sugar estate on the island as part of his campaign to support freed slaves.

Souvenirs on sale at one of the few gift shops on the island.

More family members eventually joined him on the island and, in 1869, they established the Montserrat Company Limited, planting lime trees, which led to the commercial production of lime juice. They also established a school, and sold parcels of land to the inhabitants of the island.

From 1871 to 1958, Montserrat was administered as part of the federal crown colony of the British Leeward Islands. In 1958 it joined the short-lived West Indies Federation and, after the federation was dissolved in 1962, it became a Crown Colony.

Flag

The flag of Montserrat.

Being a British territory, the flag of Montserrat features the British Blue Ensign with the Montserrat coat of arms. The arms feature Erin, the female personification of Ireland, and the golden harp, another symbol of Ireland, all of which reflects the colony’s Irish ancestry.

Montserrat souvenir flags on sale at the Hilltop Coffee Shop.

While the Montserrat flag can be seen flying over most parts of the island, the Union Jack can be seen flying outside the Governors Office in Brades (the new capital).

The Union Jack flying outside the Governors Office in Brades.

Natural Disasters

Hurricane Hugo

Two recent natural disasters have had a devastating impact on the island which was once a tourist playground. The first was in 1989, when Hurricane Hugo (a category five storm) slammed into Montserrat, damaging 90% of all structures on the island, including AIR Studios Montserrat, which was then abandoned. Hugo left 11,000 out of 12,000 people homeless and set back the tourist industry considerably.

Soufrière Hills Volcano

The Soufrière Hills Volcano is very shy and normally shrouded in cloud and, due to ongoing activity, access anywhere near it is strictly prohibited.

The second (more cataclysmic) natural disaster commenced in 1995 when, after a long period of dormancy, the Soufrière Hills Volcano became active.

The nearby capital, Plymouth, was evacuated in 1995 and was abandoned permanently in 1997 after it was burnt and mostly buried by a series of pyroclastic flows (a fast-moving current of hot gas and volcanic matter that moves away from a volcano reaching speeds of up to 700 km/h (430 mph) and temperatures of about 1,000 °C) and lahars (volcanic mud flows).

Exclusion Zones

This map of Montserrat outside the airport terminal shows the Exclusion Zone.

While driving around the island, you need to be aware of the different Exclusion Zones. There are five defined zones, being A, B, C, F and V.

Roadside signs advise when you are entering a particular exclusion zone.

Zones A & B: Open 24 hours and inhabited.
Zone C & F: Open only during daylight hours and not inhabited.

The all important Zone V advisory sign is easily missed as it’s laying in grass on the side of the road.

Zone V: The main exclusion zone, which includes the city of Plymouth. Strictly forbidden to enter (without an authorised guide) and if you are caught inside the zone without the correct permit you are subject to prosecution. Unfortunately the roadside sign which announces the demarcation line for Zone V is currently laying in long grass on the side of the road and is easily missed.

Important signage inside the exclusion zone on Montserrat!

Montserrat Volcano Observatory

The Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO).

Perched high on the side of a hill in the village of Flemmings, and with a clear view of the Soufrière Hills Volcano, is the Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO). Staff at the observatory use a variety of instruments (and a sleek helicopter) to continuously monitor volcanic activity.

Scientists at the Montserrat Volcano Observatory monitor the volcano using different means including a helicopter.

Musical Legacy

‘The Police’ recorded the video for ‘Every Little Thing She Does is Magic’ on Montserrat.

Tiny Montserrat has had a huge impact on the world of music and it’s all thanks to the vision of one man, renown English record producer, Sir George Martin. Known as “the 5th Beetle‘, Sir George decided quiet Montserrat would be an ideal place to create a 2nd ‘away-from-it-all’ recording studio where artists could come and focus solely on their music.

Opened in 1979, AIR (Associated Independent Recording) Studios Montserrat offered all of the technical facilities of its London predecessor, but with the advantages of an exotic location and over the next 10 years attracted a string of world-famous musicians such as:

Boy George
Dire Straits (who recorded ‘Brothers in Arms‘ at the studio)
Duran Duran
Elton John (who recorded ‘Too Low for Zero‘ at the studio)
Eric Clapton
Genesis
Jimmy Buffet (who recorded the album ‘Volcano‘ while looking at the then-dormant Soufrière Hills Volcano from the studio)
Little River Band
Lou Reed
Luther Vandross
Michael Jackson
Paul McCartney (who recorded the hit single ‘Ebony and Ivory‘ with Stevie Wonder at the studio)
Sheena Easton
Stevie Wonder
The Police (who recorded ‘Ghost in the Machine‘ and ‘Synchronicity‘ at the studio)
The Rolling Stones
Ultravox

The abandoned AIR Recording Studios on Montserrat.

At least 67 albums were recorded at the studio until, like everything else on the island, it was severely damaged in 1989 by Hurricane Hugo and was abandoned. Today, this icon from the pop era is quietly rotting away in the tropical heat, surrounded by fencing and signs warning people not to enter.

A display, created by David Lea of the Hilltop Coffee House, illustrates the musical legacy from the days of the Air Recording studios.

You can learn more about the musical legacy of Montserrat from the informative displays which have been arranged by David Lea at the Hilltop Coffee House.

A display, created by David Lea of the Hilltop Coffee shop, shows some of the albums which were recorded at the Air Recording studios.

Arrow

While almost all musicians who recorded on Montserrat were from more distant lands, one artist – Alphonsus Cassell (aka Arrow), was a homegrown talent who found worldwide fame with his famous Soca music hit ‘Hot, Hot, Hot’.

Currency

My collection of Eastern Caribbean Dollars.

The currency of Montserrat is the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$), which is issued by the Eastern Caribbean Central Bank, whose headquarters are on neighbouring St. Kitts. Since 1976, the exchange rate has been pegged to the US$ at a rate of US$1 = EC$2.70.

Besides Montserrat, the EC$ is also the currency of:

Anguilla
Antigua & Barbuda
Grenada
St. Kitts & Nevis
Dominica
St. Lucia
St. Vincent and the Grenadines

The only ATMs available on the island are in Brades at the Royal Bank of Canada (all cards accepted) and Bank of Montserrat (only Visa accepted). Many places on the island do not accept credit cards.

The Great Montserrat Bank Robbery

A buried, blue concrete roof awning, is all that is now visible of the former Barclay’s Bank branch in Plymouth – scene of the great bank robbery.

In 1995, the reawakening of the Soufrière Hills Volcano sent pyroclastic flows and ash falls across a wide area of southern Montserrat including the capital, Plymouth. As the capital was quickly abandoned, a sum of nearly a million Eastern Caribbean dollars, worth about USD$300,000, was left laying in a bank vault at the Plymouth branch of Barclay’s Bank.

At some stage following the evacuation, locals – who had knowledge of the now buried treasure – returned to the bank premises, tunnelled through the volcanic rubble, then through the 20-inch reinforced concrete walls of the safe and stole the cash.

It took some time for the robbery to come to light and those implicated included a former bank employee and two local police officers. The Eastern Caribbean Central Bank, who belatedly reacted by cancelling a large range of Montserrat-registered bank notes (thereby leaving many people holding worthless pieces of currency) was criticised for its handling of the matter.

Philately

Stamps from Montserrat are popular with collectors around the world.

Like other small territories around the world, stamps issued by the Montserrat Post Office are popular with Philatelists word-wide. Currently the GPO (General Post Office) in Brades is operating out of temporary premises which are very claustrophobic and not worth visiting – unless you wish to feel like a sardine in a can.

The colourful fauna and flora of Montserrat are favourite subjects for stamp issues.

However, located on a breezy hill south of Brades (near Angelo’s supermarket), you’ll find the much more spacious and agreeable Montserrat Philatelic Bureau where the friendly staff (email: monphil@candw.ms) will happily assist you with your Philatelic needs. They previously operated a website (www.montserratstampbureau.com) but this is no longer available. The bureau is another branch of the post office and as such you can take care of regular postal business here without fighting the masses at the poky GPO.

The special commemorative booklet which was produced for the 30th Anniversary of the Philatelic Bureau.

To commemorate its 30th anniversary in 2006, the bureau produced a booklet which contains many pages of coloured photos of different stamp issues. This booklet is available from the bureau free of charge.

Sightseeing

View of the east coast of Montserrat from my FlyMontserrat flight.

Plymouth

The highlight of my visit to Montserrat was my tour inside the exclusion zone, which was conducted by the knowledgeable and informative Sun Lea, the owner of Montserrat Island Tours.

Touring the ruins of Plymouth with my guide, Sun, who always had radio contact with the MVO and the police.

The ruins of the capital can only be visited on a guided tour, conducted by a specially trained guide and requires the issue of a police permit.

A view of the buried capital. The white structure in the foreground is the rooftop terrace of a buried building.

Tours can remain in the city for one hour and during that time the guide is required to maintain constant radio contact with monitoring staff at the nearby Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO).

A photo of Plymouth in its heyday as the capital of Montserrat, before it was devastated by a pyroclastic flow.

Another requirement was that, even while walking about, the motor of our vehicle was always to be left running in case the MVO advised that we need to leave the area ASAP.

Trolleys remain where they were left at Angelo’s supermarket in Plymouth.

The half-day tour commenced at the Hilltop Coffee Shop (owned by Sun’s parents – David and Clover Lea), which was very convenient as I needed my morning coffee before going into the danger zone.

The former entrance to Angelo’s supermarket. A new branch has now opened in Brades.

The first stop was the Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO) where we had a view of the cloud-covered Soufrière Hills volcano and watched a documentary from the days following the initial eruption – most of the footage for which was filmed by David Lea.

Empty baby food bottles litter the ash-covered floor of Angelo’s supermarket.

From the observatory, we drove over the Pelham river into an eerie ash-covered landscape full of abandoned buildings. As we entered into Zone V, the exclusion zone, Sun contacted the local police patrol via radio to announce he was entering the zone “with four souls on-board“.

The ground floor of most buildings in Plymouth now lie below ground.

Plymouth was constructed on historical lava deposits in the shadow of the volcano and was evacuated when the volcano resumed erupting in 1995 and was abandoned permanently in 1997 after it was burnt and mostly buried by a series of pyroclastic flows and lahars.

Pyroclastic flows and lahars inundated Plymouth with ash, mud and huge rocks.

After touring Plymouth we drove to a nearby former residential neighbourhood where we visited the ruined Montserrat Springs hotel – once one of the island’s finest.

The abandoned office at the Montserrat Springs hotel.

Like a cake dusted with icing sugar, the entire property is coated in volcanic ash and is entered through the reception where paperwork and a calculator still remain on the desk.

Valisha waiting a long time to check in at the Montserrat Springs hotel.

A calculator and ledger book remain on the reception desk of the abandoned Montserrat Springs Hotel.

Once past reception we visited the former pool area which has now been filled with volcanic mud as have all the rooms on the ground floor.

A ‘before and after’ photo of the pool area at the Montserrat Springs hotel.

In all the rooms, bedside lights remain attached to the walls (but now just inches off the new ground level), shower curtains and other bathroom fittings remain in place as do buried dressing tables and wardrobes. Walking the corridors of the old hotel was indeed eerie.

An old bedhead and bedside lights, which are now just above the new ground level at the Montserrat Springs hotel.

Buried furniture, entombed in the former rooms of the Montserrat Springs hotel.

All the ground floor rooms at the former Montserrat Springs Hotel have been inundated with volcanic ash and mud.

Garibaldi Hill

A view of Plymouth from Garibaldi Hill shows the path cut through the capital by the pyroclastic flows and lahars.

After crossing the Belham river, a steep, narrow, unmarked road leads to the top of Garibaldi Hill from where you have sweeping views of the southern part of the island, including the buried capital of Plymouth and the Soufrière Hills volcano, which looms over everything on this part of the island.

Montserrat National Trust

Artwork at the Montserrat National Trust.

The Montserrat National Trust is tasked with preserving and conserving the cultural, historical and archaeological heritage of the Island. Located on the main road in Olveston, the trust headquarters features a modest botanical garden, the Oriole gift shop (named after the national bird), a cafe (closed at the time of my visit) and historical and cultural displays.

A display at the Montserrat National Trust shows a glass bowl, bent out of shape by the heat of the pyroclastic flow which devastated Plymouth.

Runaway Ghaut

According to local legend, taking a sip of water from ‘Runaway Ghaut’ will ensure you return to Montserrat.

Located on the side of the main road south of Woodlands, is this natural gorge which is fed by a fresh water spring. Local legend has it that if you drink from here you will return to Montserrat. Interestingly the locals mispronounce the name as ‘runaway gut‘.

Woodlands Bay

Who needs a white-sand beach? Montserrat offers many beautiful volcanic-sand beaches such as Woodlands Bay.

This beautiful, black-sand beach, lies at the bottom of a steep, windy road and is often deserted. If you wish to snorkel there are a couple of reefs off the northern end of the beach.

Little Bay

Little Bay offers ideal swimming on a beautiful black-sand beach and great sunset views.

Located at the top of the west coast next to the ferry dock, Little Bay offers a nice black-sand beach, beautiful sunsets and a couple of restaurants/ bars (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more).

This has been designated as the new capital of Montserrat and is currently a work-in-progress. The National Museum of Montserrat is located here but has limited opening hours so best to call ahead.

Silver Hills

The panoramic view south from Silver Hills with the new settlement of ‘Lookout’ in the foreground and the remnants of a pyroclastic flow in the background.

Located at the top of the island and accessed via a very steep, one lane (but two-way) road behind the airport, Silver Hills affords panoramic views over the northern part of the island, including the new airport, the new settlement of Lookout, the east and west coasts and the Centre Hills and beyond.

Jack Boy Hill

A view into the exclusion zone from the Jack Boy Hill lookout. The old airport, W. H. Bramble, lies buried in the rubble below.

At the end of the road on the east coast is this lookout which provides panoramic views into the exclusion zone. The former airport, W. H. Bramble, lies buried under the huge pyroclastic flow directly below the hill.

Accommodation

A sweeping view of the west coast of Montserrat from the Gingerbread Hill Guest House.

There are just two hotels on Montserrat but many more guesthouses, B&B’s and apartments, all of which are listed on the Accommodation page of Visit Montserrat.

Gingerbread Hill

While on the island, I stayed at the wonderful Gingerbread Hill, which is owned by Clover and David Lea who are the creative force behind the nearby Hilltop Coffee Shop.

The Gingerbread Hill Guest House on Montserrat.

Perched on top of an exposed, breezy hill (no air-con needed!), the guest house offers four spacious apartments with the top-floor, Heavenly Suite, offering unbeatable views of the island and beyond.

By day you have stunning, uninterrupted, panoramic views of the mountains, rain forest and the sea (including the distant island of Nevis – i.e. St. Kitts & Nevis) and at night, incredible star-gazing from the private rooftop terrace (zero light pollution) and views of the lights of Nevis.

A friendly Green Anole lizard at Gingerbread Hill.

Clover and David can arrange car rental, airport transfers and tours of Plymouth and the Exclusion Zone, which are conducted by their son – Sun – through his company – Montserrat Island Tours (highly recommended).

The views from the 'Heavenly Suite' at the Gingerbread Guest house truly are heavenly.<br /> <i>Source: Gingerbread Hill Guest House.</i>

The views from the ‘Heavenly Suite’ at the Gingerbread Guest house truly are heavenly.
Source: Gingerbread Hill Guest House.

Eating Out

Bee Bee’s Bakery in Brades.

For an island of 4,900 souls, Montserrat offers a surprisingly good selection of dining options, serving everything from unpretentious local cuisine to more refined fine dining. A full list of dining options is available on the Visit Montserrat website while here I’ve listed some of my personal favourites (ordered from north to south).

Little Bay is home to Time Out Bar & Restaurant which is a great place to have a drink while watching the sunset.

Time Out Bar & Restaurant

At the northern end of the island, Little Bay is an ideal place to watch the sunset and it’s here you’ll find the beach-side Time Out Bar & Restaurant. Offering American favourites (burgers, barbecued ribs, wings etc) – I recommend their fresh Fish ‘n’ Chips. Their bar is one of the few places on the island where you can get a drink in the evening.

The People’s Place

Located south of Brades on Fogarty Hill, you’ll find a local culinary institution, which is housed inside a very simple turquiose-blue shack – The People’s Place. The host (John) prepares great tasting, simple Caribbean fare which is always served with a big smile (his roti are especially good). If you’re in town on Friday, this is the place to try Goat Water – a stew featuring goat meat which is the national dish.

Hilltop Coffee House

The Hilltop Coffee House at Fogarty Hill.

Directly next door to The People’s Place is the Hilltop Coffee House which is a must for anyone visiting the island. The cafe is a not-for-profit which was founded (and is run by) the energetic David Lea and his wife Clover (who also run the nearby Gingerbread Hill Guesthouse). Clover bakes the best brownies on the island and David brews a mean cup of coffee.

A wall display at the Hilltop Coffee House.

David has turned the cafe into a museum which covers all aspects of life on Montserrat from its musical heritage to the eruption of the Soufrière Hills Volcano (which David filmed and is available for purchase on DVD) to local art and much more.

David is known as Mr Volcano and filmed the entire eruption. You can purchase his DVD – The Price of Paradise – at the coffee-house.

Signs salvaged from Plymouth businesses are displayed at the Hilltop Coffee House.

An American native, David is very informative and enthusiastic about the island, offering visitors a free tour and explanation of his extensive collection of memorabilia.

If there’s one place on the island from which you can gain an understanding of everything Montserrat, it’s the Hilltop Coffee House.

Olveston House

Olveston House, the former winter residence of Sir George Martin.

If you’re looking for a fine dining experience, you’ll find it at Olveston House, the former winter residence of Sir George Martin, who purchased the estate in the early 1980’s. For many years, Olveston House hosted famous artists such as Sting, Eric Clapton, Elton John and Paul McCartney who came to Montserrat to record at AIR Studios.

It’s worth excusing yourself to use the toilet while dining here just to view the old black and white photos of Paul and Linda McCartney and John Lennon which line the hallway. Offering Caribbean-infused international cuisine, the restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and ‘high tea’ with meals served on the breezy balcony, overlooking the garden.

LIAT Airline

From Olveston House to the Caribbean

If you’re spending anytime travelling around the Eastern Caribbean, there’s a good chance you’ll end up on a flight operated by the region’s dominate carrier – LIAT (Leeward Islands Air Transport). LIAT was founded in the 1950’s by Sir Frank Delisle from neighbouring St. Kitts, who lived at Olveston House and was the Managing Director of the Montserrat Company.

In 1953, the first flight touched down on the airstrip at Olveston House and LIAT airlines was born. Today LIAT serves 17 destinations throughout the region, including Guyana in South America.

The Attic

The Attic cafe serves up tasty local food and has the best homemade ginger beer on the island.

Housed in a cute wooden cottage, around the corner from Olveston House, is another local favourite – The Attic. Open for breakfast and lunch only, this cafe serves local fare (I especially recommend the grilled fish with rice and salad) and fresh juices, all of which are made in-house. The homemade ginger beer is especially good – so good I had to order a 2nd glass!

Visa Requirements

The clover leaf is an appropriate passport stamp for the Emerald Isle.

As a British Overseas Territory, Montserrat maintains its own visa policy, which you can check here.

It’s appropriate that the passport stamp to the Emerald Isle is a green clover leaf.

Getting There

Air

Boarding the FlyMontserrat flight at Antigua airport.

All flights into Montserrat arrive at the small John A. Osborne Airport which is located in the village of Gerald’s. Constructed at a cost of approximately US$18.5 million, the airport was opened in July of 2005 by Princess Anne and was built as a replacement for the former airport – W. H. Bramble – which was completely destroyed in 1997 as a result of the eruption of the Soufrière Hills volcano.

Between 1997 and 2005, Montserrat had only been accessible by helicopter, boat and seaplane.

The terminal at John A. Osborne Airport on Montserrat.

The airport has the distinction of being the only one in the Caribbean with a public road tunnel under its runway and is the base for FlyMontserrat Airways which flies three times a day between Montserrat and neighbouring Antigua (the only destination for flights to/from the island), with the 57 km hop taking 20 minutes in nine seater Britten-Norman Islander aircraft.

On final approach to John A Osborne airport, Montserrat.

The following airlines provide services to Montserrat:

SVG Air – flies to/ from Antigua
FlyMontserrat Airways – flies to/ from Antigua

Airport Taxes

Antigua Airport is the only gateway for flights to/ from Montserrat and if you’re staying on Antigua more than 24 hours, you will be required to pay an arrival tax of US$37.50 and also a departure tax of US$37.50 (a total of US$75 in taxes!).

Most airlines automatically include these horrendous taxes in their tickets, however FlyMontserrat annoyingly does not!

When you depart for Montserrat from Antigua, you’ll be required to pay the Antigua departure tax (cash or credit card) at the time of check-in.

When departing Montserrat, you’ll be required to pay the Antigua arrival tax (cash or credit card) at the time of check-in.

You’re also required to pay the Montserrat departure tax (cash only) which is EC$45 per person. It would be so much easier if FlyMontserrat followed the example of all other airlines and included these taxes in its tickets.

Sea

The Antigua-Montserrat ferry, Jaden Sun, docked at Little Bay.

A regular ferry service operates five days a week between Port Little Bay in Montserrat and Heritage Quay Pier in Antigua with the 52 km crossing taking 90 minutes on the fast boat – Jaden Sun.

If you ever spent time in Saint Vincent & the Grenadines, you might recognise this boat as being the old inter-island ferry which was once captained by the famous Captain Elvis and connected the Grenadines to the main island of St. Vincent on a daily basis.

I’d always wondered where this boat (which was a lifeline for the Grenadines) had disappeared to and was very surprised to see it in its new role as the Antigua-Montserrat ferry.

An advertisement announces a day trip to neighbouring Guadeloupe on the Jaden Sun.

The ferry company also operates occasional charters to neighbouring St. Kitts, Nevis and Guadeloupe. You can view the current schedule and fares on the Montserrat Access Division Facebook page and you can make bookings on this website.

A view of the Jaden Sun, en-route from Antigua to Montserrat, cutting a path across giant Sargassum seaweed blooms.

Getting Around

Scenic flights over Montserrat can be arranged by helicopter.

Bus

A small fleet of mini-vans shuttle back and forth along the one main road, during daylight hours and to no fixed schedule, stopping wherever required, charging a fare of EC$3.

Taxi

There are approximately 30 taxis on Montserrat, all of whom are easily identifiable by their green license plates beginning with the letter ‘H‘. Taxis are available at the boat dock, airport or can be booked through your accommodation provider. You can view a complete listing of taxi operators on the Visit Montserrat website.

Rental Car

My temporary Monserrat drivers license.

Your best option for exploring Montserrat is to hire a car, most of which are aging 4WD vehicles, which are ideal on the tough island roads. Although none of the international car rental chains are represented, you can organise car hire through your accommodation provider or from the complete list of operators on the Visit Montserrat website.

If driving, you’ll need to purchase a temporary local Drivers License (EC$50/ valid for 90 days) from the immigration officer at the airport (if you’re collecting your car upon arrival) or a police station elsewhere.

It’s easy to know who the tourists are on the island, as all rental vehicles have special red license plates beginning with the letter ‘R‘. The roads are steep, narrow and full of hairpin turns but traffic is light and there are no traffic lights on the island. With just one main road meandering through the northern half of the island, navigation devices are definitely not required.

That’s the end of my Montserrat Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Faroe Islands Travel Guide

7 years ago

Darren McLean

An incredible sight - Sørvágsvatn is the largest lake in the Faroes and occupies the most dramatic setting high above the Atlantic.

Faroe Islands Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Faroe Islands Travel Guide!

Date Visited: May 2018

Introduction

Like its northern neighbour, Iceland, the Faroe Islands (Faroese: Føroyar) offer spectacular, eye-popping scenery and a unique travel experience far off the well-beaten, European tourist trail.

The, rugged, majestic and monumental scenery of the Faroe Islands offer excellent hiking possibilities.

A self-governing archipelago, which together with Greenland, forms a constituent part of the Kingdom of Denmark, the Faroe Islands are comprised of 18 inhabited islands with a scattered population of 50,000 (25% of whom live in the capital city of Tórshavn) and almost twice as many sheep.

Spectacular views in every direction on the Faroe Islands.

The islands are the exposed summits of deep, submerged volcanoes and are typically high and rugged with dramatic, perpendicular cliffs. The islands tend to be long and thin and are separated by narrow sounds or fjords, which are notorious for their strong currents.

The precipitous cliffs of Ritubergsnøva soar a staggering 376 metres from the Atlantic.

Like Iceland, the Faroe Islands are treeless, being composed of hard volcanic (basalt) rock which is covered by a thin layer of moraine or peat soil. During periods of heavy rainfall, the rocky islands come alive with countless dramatic, plunging waterfalls which empty directly into the sea.

A dramatic waterfall on the road to Saksun.

Thanks to frequent flights from neighbouring countries, accessing this remote archipelago is surprisingly simple while a car/ passenger ship provides weekly connections between Denmark and Iceland (see the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details).

Faroe Islands flags on sale in Tórshavn.

Travelling around the islands is made easy by a reliable bus network which connects the major urban centres. If you wish to maximise your time and explore the more remote corners of this incredible archipelago you will either need a rental car or a good pair of hiking boots.

The endemic Faroe Islands sheep are all free-range, able to wander wherever they please in order to consume the rich bounty the island provides.

If you wish to take to the air, the only option is the helicopter service provided by Atlantic Airways (see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below for more details).

The most spectacular drives are known as ‘Buttercup’ routes and are signposted with special signs. A rental car is the best way to explore these scenic back-roads.

How long to spend on the Faroe Islands? I would recommend one week (with a rental car) which will allow you plenty of time to explore those islands connected by road and under-sea tunnels and to make side trips to islands connected by ferry (see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below for more details).

Whatever amount of time you spend, you’ll find a visit to this magical archipelago surprising and rewarding and, maybe like me, you’ll be already planning your next visit while sipping a coffee in one of the quayside cafes in Tórshavn.

Location

Tórshavn, Faroe Islands

The Faroe Islands are located in the middle of the North Atlantic Ocean at 62º latitude North (4°33′ south of the Arctic Circle), about halfway between Iceland and Norway. The overall length of the archipelago north-south is 113 kilometres, and 75 kilometres east-west.

Although located close to the Arctic Circle, the islands generally have cool summers (average temperature: 11º C) and mild winters (3º C) due to the prevailing Gulf Stream.

A boat (bottom left) is dwarfed by the towering peaks which surround the Funning’s Fjord on Eysturoy Island.

History

Ancient

The ancient Althing (parliament) was first convened on the rocky point which is today the Tinganes neighbourhood in Tórshavn.

Archaeological excavations on the island of Sandoy indicate that humans were present on the Faroe Islands as early as the 3rd century AD, however these excavations do not provide any clues as to who these people were.

The first known settlers were Irish monks, who in the 6th century AD told of the “Islands of the Sheep and the Paradise of Birds”.

In the 9th century, Viking settlers – who were escaping the tyranny of Norway’s first king, Harald I – arrived on the islands from Norway, naming them Føroyar which is derived from old Norse and means Sheep Islands, which is appropriate since today the sheep population is almost double the human population.

These Norse settlers brought with them their medieval culture, which included the establishment of their Althing (parliament), at Tinganes in Tórshavn. Tórshavn still is the capital city of the Faroe Islands, and it claims to hold the oldest parliament in the world.

The name ‘Faroe’ is an old Norse word for ‘Sheep’ which are plentiful on the islands.

During the Viking age, Norwegian Kings aspired to gain control over the islands, but for many centuries the Faroese managed to fight them off. However, in the 12th century the Faroe Islands eventually became a part of the Kingdom of Norway.

In the 14th century, the Faroe Islands joined Norway into a dual monarchy with Denmark. However, when this union was succeeded by a Norwegian-Swedish union in 1814 the Faroe Islands remained under the sovereignty of the Kingdom of Denmark. Due to its remoteness, distinct language and culture, the Faroe Islands always remained autonomous.

Modern

In 1940, when German forces invaded and occupied Denmark, British forces launched “Operation Valentine” to occupy the Faroe Islands in an effort to pre-empt a German invasion. The occupation lasted until the end of the Second World War, with the last British troops leaving in 1945. During this period, the Faroese flag was officially recognized for the first time by a foreign (British) government and the Faroese exercised a greater degree of autonomy over their affairs.

Following the war, a referendum regarding independence was held and while a small majority voted in favour of independence from Denmark, a subsequent parliamentary election saw the election of a majority of members who decide to remain under Danish rule.

Nevertheless, in response to growing calls for autonomy, the Home Rule Act of the Faroe Islands was passed in 1948, cementing the Faroe Islands’ status as a self-governing territory within the Danish Realm. The Act allows for the vast majority of domestic affairs to be controlled by the Faroese government.

Salmon farming is the main industry on the Faroe Islands with huge farms occupying most of the inter-island channels.

Today fisheries and aquaculture are the basis for the production and export of high quality Faroese fish products, which constitute 95 per cent of the total income of exported goods.

Most of the fjords and channels which separate the islands are home to huge Atlantic Salmon farms, with the salmon being exported around the world. Especially popular in Sushi restaurants, fresh Faroese Salmon is available for consumption in European and U.S. restaurants just 72 hours after being harvested.

People & Sheep

A view of Tórshavn, the capital and largest city in the Faroe Islands.

The islands are home to a population of 50,000 with 25% living in the capital (Tórshavn) and the remainder living in small, scattered coastal settlements. The official languages are Faroese (most closely related to Icelandic) and Danish.

My rental car surrounded by some curious Faroese Sheep.

With an estimated population of 80,000 – the endemic and ubiquitous Faroese sheep far outnumber the human population. Faroese sheep are highly adapted to their vertical environment and can be found grazing on the highest of cliffs and on the edge of impossibly steep ledges. While exploring the islands, you’ll pass sheep grazing along the sides of all roads and on the highest of mountain passes.

The Faroese pride themselves on doing things their way and, in 2016, enterprising locals – who had became impatient waiting for Google to complete ‘Street View’ mapping of the archipelago – strapped cameras to the backs of their wandering ovine population and used them to provide a unique street view experience.

Flag

The flag of the Faroe Islands.

Like the flags of neighbouring Scandinavian countries, the flag of the Faroe islands incorporates a red Nordic cross, which is offset to the left. The red cross is fimbriated azure and is set on a white field.

The Faroe Islands flag flying in downtown Tórshavn.

The flag design closely resembles that of the Norwegian flag, with white symbolising the foam of the sea and the pure, radiant sky of the Faroe Islands. The Faroese blue and red colours are reminiscent of other Scandinavian and Nordic flags; representing the Faroe Islands’ bonds with other Nordic countries.

Currency

Faroe Islands Krona bank notes are works of art.

There are two currencies of equal value in circulation on the islands: the Faroese Króna and the Danish Krone, both of which are printed in Copenhagen by the Danmarks Nationalbank. While two types of banknotes are in circulation, only Danish coins are used.

The Faroese Króna notes are beautiful works of art, featuring a fragment of a Faroese animal on the face side and watercolour Faroese landscapes by local artist Zacharias Heinesen on the reverse side. An interesting feature is the inclusion of a mother-of-pearl security strip on the reverse side of each note.

Faroese banknotes are regarded as a foreign currency in Denmark thus they are not legal tender in there, so it’s best to spend or convert your Faroese notes prior to departing the islands.

Tunnels

A map indicating road tunnels on the Faroe Islands.
Source: Wikipedia

While travelling around the Faroe Islands you will pass through many different road tunnels, some cut through mountains, while others pass under the sea. All tunnels are operated by a dedicated company – Tunnil. If you wish to download the above map, you can do so from Wikipedia.

Currently the longest tunnel on the Faroe Islands is the 6.3 km Norðoyatunnilin under-sea tunnel which connects Esturoy Island to Bordoy Island. This 2-lane, engineering marvel, reaches a depth of 150 metres below sea level and includes a sub-sea roundabout (the only roundabout beneath the Atlantic Ocean), which is very useful in the event you realise, mid-tunnel, that you forgot to buy the milk or bread and need to go back.

To keep motorists amused during the lengthy crossing, colourful light art by Faroese artist Tróndur Patursson has been installed.

Me yielding (who wouldn’t?) to an approaching truck, at the entrance of the 2-km long Hvannasundstunnilin (Hvannasund Tunnel) close to Norðdepil on the island of Borðoy.

In 2022, construction is scheduled to be completed on the biggest project of all time – the 11 km long Eysturoyartunnilin (Eysturoy Tunnel), which will also include a roundabout with two spur roads and will connect the island of Streymoy to Eysturoy, passing under the Tangafjørður (fjord).

Highlighted in red on the map above, the tunnel will not only be the longest in the Faroe Islands but the longest sub-sea road tunnel in the world.

The tunnel will shorten the travel distance from Tórshavn to Runavík from 55 kilometres (34 miles) to 17 kilometres (11 miles). The 64 minute drive will be shortened to 16 minutes. The drive from Tórshavn to Klaksvík will be shortened from 68 minutes to 36 minutes.

In terms of length, the 11 km long Eysturoy Tunnel is a minnow compared to the proposed 24 km long under-sea tunnel which will eventually join Streymoy Island with the southernmost island of Suðuroy.

While the newer tunnels offer pleasant driving experiences complete with wide lanes and artistic light installations, many older tunnels offer a more harrowing experience.

These tunnels are normally unlit, roughly cut, one-lane, narrow passageways, on a two-way road (with one direction having priority over the other) and range in length with the longest being the tunnel on Kunoy Island which is 3 km long.

Driving through the one-lane, unlit, 3-km long Kunoy tunnel. Passing bays allow for oncoming traffic to pass.

While driving through these dark, narrow caverns you need to watch for the headlights of oncoming vehicles and, if you are required to yield, pull into one of the regular passing bays.

You need to constantly stay alert and hope that anyone coming in the other direction got the message to yield, or maybe you are required to yield, or sometimes everyone is confused so everyone yields!

It’s all like a game of ‘chicken’ seeing how far you can drive towards the lights of an oncoming car, before yielding (it’s hard to gauge distances in these tunnels and sometimes what you think are the lights of an oncoming car is the daylight at the end of the tunnel).

It all makes for a ‘Mister Magoo’ type of adventure.

Driving through the 2.2 km long Hvannasundstunnilin (Hvannasund Tunnel) on Bordoy Island.

Sightseeing

The islands in the sightseeing section are ordered from west to east starting with Vágar Island (home to the airport and point of arrival for most visitors) and ending with Vidoy Island.

Vágar Island

The village of Gásadalur remained isolated from the world until the Gásadalur tunnel was completed in 2006.

Located at the end of the road on the northwest coast of Vágar Island, the tiny village of Gásadalur (population: 18) is nestled in a gentle, green valley, overlooking the Mykines Fjord and surrounded by the highest peaks on Vágar Island.

Completed in 2006, the 1.4 km single-lane Gásadalur tunnel was blasted through the mountain to provide access to the tiny village of Gásadalur.

Despite being located on the coast the village was isolated from the rest of the world for most of its existence due to the poor mooring sight which lies at the base of a cliff.

Previously, the only way of accessing the village was either by trekking over a 700-metre high mountain, taking a boat or flying via helicopter.

Not surprisingly, the population of the village dwindled over the years with just 16 residents remaining in 2002.

In 2004 construction started on a 1.4 km single-lane tunnel – the Gásadalstunnilin – which was blasted through the Knúkarnir mountain, finally opening the village to the outside world in 2006.

Since becoming more accessible, the population has increased by 2!

The breathtakingly beautiful Mulafossur Waterfall plunges 60 metres into the Atlantic Ocean near the village of Gásadalur.

There are several hiking trails in the area and the village offers panoramic views of neighbouring Mykines Island. The standout attraction is the magnificent Mulafossur Waterfall, which starts life as a trickle on the towering peaks above the village, eventually plunging 60 metres in a single drop into the Atlantic Ocean. A magnificent sight!

The picturesque village of Bøur.

South of Gásadalur (heading back towards the airport), is the quaint seaside village of Bøur (population: 75). This compact village has a long history, dating back to at least 1350 AD. The historic houses (and one very cute church) are bunched tightly together along the (black sand) bay.

While driving between Bøur and Gásadalur you should look for an unmarked left-turn (just before the Gásadalur tunnel) onto a gravel road which will dead-end at a parking lot close to the coast. From here, you can walk through the fields (full of friendly sheep) towards the sea where a stunning beach and waterfall can be seen (no idea what the name of this beach is).

I came across this incredible sight after walking through some fields north of the village of Bøur.

South of Bøur, the town of Sørvágur offers dining and accommodation options (5 minutes from the airport) and is the departure point for boats to Mykines Island. If you’re using public transport, bus #300 connects Sørvágur to the airport and Tórshavn.

While in Sørvágur, I stayed at (and dined at) Guest House Hugo which makes an ideal base for exploring the region and is a perfect option if you have an early morning departure from the airport. The guesthouse can also organise rental cars (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below for more details).

An incredible sight – Sørvágsvatn is the largest lake in the Faroes and occupies the most dramatic setting high above the Atlantic.

Wow! Wow! Wow! What an amazing sight… located immediately south of the airport, Sørvágsvatn or Leitisvatn is the largest lake in the Faroe Islands and occupies what must be the most dramatic setting for any lake on this planet. If you see just one thing on the islands – this must be it.

A lone hiker lends a sense of scale to the magnificent scenery on the coast of Vágar island.

The lake lies in a depression 40 metres above the sea and empties into the Atlantic via a waterfall at it’s western end. However the perspective from the nearby 100 metre high sea cliffs makes for the most incredible (and vertigo inducing) photography.

How close do you dare get to the edge in order to get the perfect shot? Once you reach the coast, the views in either direction are stupendous.

Two hikers are dwarfed by the towering cliffs of the Vágar coast.

Access to the unmarked hiking trail is from a car park on the main airport road. If you’re using public transport, bus #300 will drop you at the trail head. The hike is along a muddy 4 km long track so bring some water and allow at least half a day here.

Located on the south coast of Vágar Island, Sandavágur has been voted the most well-kept village in the Faroes – twice.

The striking church of Sandavá dominates the village of Sandavágur, which has twice been voted the best-kept village in the Faroe Islands.

While this quiet, sleepy village offers little in the way of distractions, it is the access point for visits to the nearby Trøllkonufingur (The Troll Finger) – an iconic 313 m high shard of volcanic rock which pierces the sky from the Atlantic.

A view of yet another Salmon farm, near to the town of Sandavágur.

While this dramatic monolith is the subject of many local legends (it’s also known as the Witches Finger), the only people known to have climbed it were a bunch of Kiwi climbers in 2016 – they recorded their experience on Instagram.

The dramatic Troll Finger soars skyward from the Atlantic.

The only road connection between Vágar Island and neighbouring Streymoy Island is via the 5 km long (16,210 ft) under-sea Vágatunnilin.

This two-lane tunnel reaches a depth of 105 metres (344 ft) below sea level and requires the payment of a toll, which can be made at the “Effo” service station which is on the main road on the Streymoy Island side of the tunnel.

Streymoy Island

Houses in the Tinganes district of Tórshavn.

As much as anywhere on an archipelago could be referred to as the ‘mainland’, the Faroese do indeed call Streymoy Island just that. Streymoy is the largest and most populated of all the islands and is home to the capital and largest city – Tórshavn (population: 13,089 with 21,000 living in the greater urban area).

Boats in Tórshavn harbour.

While hardly a big, bustling city (there are just three traffic lights on the Faroe Islands, all of which are in downtown Tórshavn), the capital is a charming place to spend some time and with most of the accommodation and dining options on the Faroe Islands (see those sections below) it makes for a logical base.

Despite being a treeless archipelago, many houses on the Faroe Islands are constructed from timber and painted glossy colours – including black. This makes for a nice contrasting background onto which colourful ornaments are added. Can you see the camouflaged mailbox?

The sights of Tórshavn can be enjoyed on a short, pleasant stroll around the compact downtown area. Here you’ll find the picturesque port area and the historic Tinganes neighbourhood (home to the oldest parliament in the world). There is one art gallery – Listasavn Føroya (National Gallery of the Faroe Islands) – which is located on a hill north of the city centre.

Travel Tip: One travel tip worth mentioning is that buses in Tórshavn are free of charge.

A view at the top of the steep road which descends into the tiny settlement of Norðradalur.

Elsewhere on Streymoy Island there are three outstanding Buttercup routes, one of which is the high road (route 10) which runs along the barren, central plateau of the island, connecting Tórshavn with the airport road (route 11) near the Vágar tunnel.

I often travelled on this road as there is very little traffic (most people use the busier coastal road) and the panoramic views are incredible.

While on this route, it’s worth making the short detour and taking the steep, hair-pinned, narrow road down to the coastal village of Norðradalur. Really beautiful!

A wind farm located alongside route 10 on the central plateau of Streymoy Island.

At the northern end of Streymoy Island, another Buttercup route (route 53) connects the main-road village of Hvalvik (reachable from Tórshavn on bus #400) with the stunningly beautiful village of Saksun.

The drive along this road is challenging – a one-lane (but two way) elevated road with no shoulders, no rail guards and a river flowing alongside. Thankfully it’s never too busy and there are passing bays along the way should you encounter an oncoming car.

On the road to the remote village of Saksun.

Saksun lies in the bottom of what used to be an inlet of the sea, surrounded by high mountains. On the day I visited, the weather was typically Faroese – howling winds and horizontal, pelting rain which created impossible conditions in which to photograph. The village was surrounded by gushing waterfalls which was exciting but made hiking impossible.

Old turf-roofed farmhouses in the village of Saksun.

From Saksun, there is a popular hiking trail which takes you over the mountain and down to the coastal village of Tjørnuvík, although walking anywhere was not possible on the day I visited.

A very wet day in the village of Saksun, with a view of Lake Saksun.

Video:

How is it to drive along Route 53 to Saksun?

I recorded this video (while of course focusing carefully on my driving).

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The third Buttercup route (route 594) connects the main-road village of Oyrarbakki (reachable from Tórshavn on bus #400) to the stunningly situated village of Tjørnuvík (population: 64).

I visited on a stormy day, but even with washed out views, the scenery was magnificent with Tjørnuvík surrounded on all sides by gushing waterfalls.

A view of the very narrow route 594 as it makes its final descent into the coastal village of Tjørnuvík.

Route 594 follows the coast of Streymoy Island with spectacular views across the Sundini fjord to neighbouring Eysturoy Island, including the 343-metre-high promontory – Eiðiskollur – which seems to be guarded by two rocky sentinels – Risin og Kellingin (means: The Giant and the Witch) – two sea stacks which rise up 75 metres from the sea.

A hazy view of the soaring 343-metre-high Eiðiskollur promontory with the two 75-m high sea stacks – Risin og Kellingin.

Eysturoy Island

The village of Funningur (which lies on a Fjord of the same name) is illuminated by a late burst of sunlight.

Eysturoy Island (meaning ‘East Island’) is the 2nd largest of the Faroe Islands. The island is connected to the main island of Streymoy by the Streymin Bridge, which locals jokingly refer to as the only bridge over the Atlantic.

On the Buttercup route between Eiði and Funningur on Eysturoy Island.

The island is home to three Buttercup Routes with the most spectacular being the drive between the northern villages of Eiði and Funningur.

Before leaving the village of Eiði, it’s worth checking out the dramatic waterfall which crashes off the side of a high cliff into the sea. Depending on the time of the year, it will be either a trickle or a raging cascade.

Plunging hundreds of metres before becoming mist, yet another dramatic waterfall on the remote north coast of Eysturoy, near the village of Eiði.

The 12 km long road crosses a spectacular mountain pass (which is not maintained in winter) and passes directly under the summit of Slættaratindur, which – at an elevation of 880 m (2,887 ft) above the sea level – is the highest mountain in the Faroe Islands.

The highest mountain in the Faroe Islands, Slættaratindur (880 m), towers over the village of Funningur.

A turn (high above Funningur) allows you to make a detour into the popular tourist village of Gjógv, which comes into view after crossing yet another lofty mountain pass. This tiny village (population: 49) is incredibly scenic and makes a good base for hikes in the area.

The village is also popular as it features the only accommodation and restaurant option in this part of the world – the Hotel Gjáargarður (Guesthouse of Gjógv).

The view of the village of Gjógv from the restaurant at the Hotel Gjáargarður.

Nearby, a second buttercup route connects the villages of Funningsfjørður with charming Elduvik (population: 23). The drive along this road offers panoramic views of the dramatic coastline and the cobalt blue Funnings Fjord. When I arrived in Elduvik, the afternoon sun made an appearance (the first all day) which provided fantastic lighting.

A view of the picturesque village of Elduvik, which lies on the Funnings Fjord inlet.

The third Buttercup route is located at the southern end of Eysturoy Island, south of the main urban centre of Runavik. The route provides panoramic views of Toftavatn (Lake Toftir), the fourth-largest natural lake in the Faroe Islands.

A view of Toftavatn (Lake Toftir), with the town of Runavik in the background.

Borðoy Island

Borðoy Island (meaning ‘Headland Island’) is known for its nature, mountains, valleys and beautiful fjords.

While travelling around Borðoy, you’ll pass through two older tunnels; the 1,680-metre Árnafjarðartunnilin and the 2-km long Hvannasundstunnilin, which provide an east-west connection across the island. Both tunnels are unlit and feature a single lane (there’s one priority direction), with a series of passing bays.

The main town on Borðoy is Klaksvik which is the 2nd largest town on the Faroes (population: 4740) and is home to the vitally important Föroya Bjór brewery. The brewery produces a good range of craft beers and has a factory shop where you can stock up.

The craft beers produced by Föroya Bjór are very quaffable.

Apart from beer, the brewery produces a line of local soda drinks, including the popular Jolly Cola which is often the only cola available on the islands.

Feel like a Coca-Cola? The Faroese are keen supporters of their local Cola with many businesses only offering Jolly Cola rather than the more famous international cola.

Klaksvik offers a couple of accommodation options (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below) and is the main access point for Kalsoy Island, with regular car ferries departing for the island from a dedicated dock – click here to view the current timetable.

The view across to Vidoy Island from the village of Múli.

The island is home to one Buttercup route which runs along its western shore from the village of Norðdepil (reachable by #500 bus from Klaksvik) to the abandoned village of Múli.

If you’re driving, the narrow road is paved most of the way with the last 20% being rough gravel as you descend into the village. The route provides panoramic views of neighbouring Viðoy Island and lots of opportunities to interact with friendly Faroese sheep.

The Faroe Islands are full of super-cute rural scenes such as this one at Múli village.

Kunoy Island

The remote village of Kunoy on Kunoy Island.

Kunoy Island (meaning ‘Woman Island’) is the highest island in the Faroes with six summits above 800 metres. This long, narrow, exposed, volcanic mountain range is home to just two small villages which cling to the narrow coastline; Kunoy (population: 64) on the west coast and Haraldsund on the east coast.

Hiking trail near Kunoy Village.

Hiking trails from Kunoy Village provide access to the loftier parts of the island and if you’re planning on hiking you should bring all supplies with you from Klaksvik as there are no shops anywhere on the island.

Entrance to the 3-km long Kunoyartunnilin which was completed in 1988, providing access to the previously isolated Kunoy village.

A causeway near to Haraldsund connects Kunoy Island to Bordoy Island and, immediately after crossing the causeway, you enter the 3-km long, one-lane, unlit Kunoyartunnilin (road tunnel) which was completed in 1988 and, for the first time, provided access to the previously isolated village of Kunoy.

How many governments around the world would build a 3-km long tunnel though hard volcanic rock to connect a village of 64 souls to the outside world? Not too many!

Viðoy Island

The circuitous, but narrow, road around Vidoy Island offers spectacular views.

Viðoy is the northernmost island of the Faroes and features two small villages – Viðareiði (population: 346) to the north and Hvannasund to the south.

Vidoy translates as ‘Wood‘ and despite the fact that no trees grow on the island; the name relates to the driftwood that floats in from Siberia and North America. A newly completed tunnel which cuts through the central spine of the island allows you to tour Viðoy following a circuitous route.

The 2-km long Viðareiðistunnilin was opened in 2016, cutting a path across the centre of Vidoy Island, connecting the east and west coasts.

Viðareiði has the distinction of being the northernmost village in the Faroe Islands. Located on an isthmus and surrounded by high mountains and spectacular views, the village makes an ideal base for hikes into the nearby countryside.

A view of the village of Viðareiði from neighbouring Bordoy Island.

Heading east out of Viðareiði, the nearby island of Fugloy (the eastern-most of the Faroe Islands) comes into view. Ferries to Fugloy depart from the dock in Hvannasund, click here to view the current timetable.

The view across to Fugloy Island from Vidoy Island.

Accommodation

While there are no 5-star hotels, the Faroe Islands offer all other accommodation options, including cute private houses.

While there are no 5-star hotels on the Faroe Islands, there’s a small selection of everything else, from camping grounds to guest houses to 4-star hotels, with the majority of options located in Tórshavn.

If you plan to stay outside of the capital you should book in advance as the limited number of options are often fully booked.

Vágar & Mykines Island

My room at guest house Hugo offered sweeping views of Sørvágur harbour.

The Visit Vágar website features an accommodation directory, which lists options on Vágar and Mykines Islands. While on Vágar I stayed at Guest House Hugo in Sørvágur, which offers 4 rooms (2 doubles and 2 singles) with one shared bath/toilet at the end of the hallway.

Streymoy Island

The spacious living room at Tora guest house offers panoramic views of the harbour and neighbouring Nolsoy Island.

The spacious living room at Tora guest house offers panoramic views of the harbour and nearby Nolsoy Island.

A complete listing of accommodation options on Streymoy Island can be found in the accommodation directory of the Visit Tórshavn website. The capital features five hotels and numerous guesthouses, while elsewhere on the island, small apartments and guesthouses are available.

My cosy room at the very welcoming Tora Guest House in Tórshavn.

While in Tórshavn, I stayed at the wonderful Tora Guesthouse, which offers four rooms (with one shared bathroom), a small kitchen area and a spacious living room with panoramic views of the harbour and neighbouring Nolsoy Island.

The owners (Tora and her husband Samal) are incredibly friendly, helpful and kind and made me feel like a part of their family making this feel like a home away from home.

The couple have worked in the local tourism industry for decades and, upon my arrival, Samal (who is normally busy leading tour groups around the island and is a font of information) took me for an impromptu drive around town to point out the highlights.

Eysturoy Island

My comfortable room at the remote Hotel Gjáargarður in Gjógv.

There are two hotels on Eysturoy island; the Hotel Gjáargarður (Guesthouse of Gjógv). which overlooks the tiny, picturesque northern village of Gjógv (population: 49) and the Hotel Runavik. There are many other smaller options, all of which are listed in the accommodation directory on the Visit Eysturoy website.

While on Eysturoy, I stayed at the busy and efficient Guesthouse of Gjógv. The vertical countryside surrounding tiny Gjógv is ideal for hiking and the approach (over a steep mountain pass) is spectacular. The guesthouse is popular and often fully booked so best to book in advance. Meals are served in the restaurant – the only one in town.

Northern Isles

The Northern Isles consist of Borðoy, Kunoy, Kalsoy, Viðoy and Svinoy. Within the isles there is one hotel – Hotel Klaksvik – and numerous small guesthouses which are featured in the accommodation directory on the Visit Nordoy website.

Eating Out

While they are so cute, they are also so tasty and many restaurant menus feature delicious Faroese ‘free-range’ sheep.

Streymoy Island

As with accommodation, the majority of restaurants, cafés and bars are to be found in Tórshavn, which offers a surprisingly rich culinary experience. Most dining options are locally run and serve only fresh, local produce and, while international junk food outlets are refreshingly absent (the Faroe Islands are one of very few countries in Europe to have no McDonalds), there is now a Burger King in Tórshavn.

Throughout town there are a number of excellent cafés, with my personal favourite being the quayside Kaffihúsið (Coffee House), which offers great tasting coffee and a good breakfast selection. Open from 9 AM until 6 PM, 7 days a week, Kaffihúsið is especially popular during lunchtime. A small Faroese craft shop adjoins the cafe and is a great place to pick up a souvenir.

Another worthwhile haunt is the beautifully appointed Paname Café, which is a short walk uphill from the harbour and offers arguably the best coffee in town along with freshly baked cakes, sandwiches and local craft beers.

Potato farming on the Faroe Islands involves covering a potato (and some fertiliser) with a cut section of peat under which the potato incubates.

There is no shortage of standout restaurants in Tórshavn, with many offering only locally sourced, high quality produce. This is the land of sheep and salmon so it’s not surprising that they feature on many menus.

One of my favourite restaurants is Katrina Christiansen which is housed in a charming, timber building in the historic Tinganes neighbourhood of Tórshavn. The restaurant features a Spanish-style tapas menu using only Faroese products – the lamb is especially recommended.

Vágar Island

he cosy and charming Café Fjørðoy at guest house Hugo features a treasure trove of historical objects which have remained in the house over the decades.

The cosy and charming Café Fjørðoy at guest house Hugo features a treasure trove of historical objects which have remained in the house over the decades.

Located on the waterfront in Sørvágur, Café Fjørðoy at Guest House Hugo is under the competent command of the owners (Kent and his wife) who serve up delicious meals using fresh local produce, including Salmon from a nearby farm. The coffee is the best in town and compliments their tasty desert selection.

My delicious dinner at Guest House Hugo which featured a grilled fillet of local Salmon.

Eysturoy Island

If, like many tourists, you find yourself in the remote, tiny village of Gjógv, the only dining option for miles around is at the Hotel Gjáargarður (Guesthouse of Gjógv). Serving meals to visitors and guests, this cosy restaurant provides panoramic views of the village, sea and the surrounding (vertical) countryside.

No shortage of fresh Atlantic Salmon in the Faroe Islands.

Northern Isles

Within the Northern Isles, dining options are slim with the regional hub of Klaksvik providing the only real options. The most popular place (there are only two!) is the charming and friendly Café Frida whose slogan is “the best ingredients are local ingredients”. This excellent, cosy café, which overlooks Klaksvik port, is operated by an efficient and friendly team of staff who prepare the tastiest of meals (Faroese tapas lunch) using local products. The coffee is the best you’ll find this side of Tórshavn and the fresh cakes (Rhubarb cheesecake) are divine.

Visa Requirements

A Faroese passport stamp can be obtained from the police station at the airport.

Being a territory of Denmark, the visa policy of the Schengen area applies to the Faroe Islands.

Immigration Formalities

With the exception of the twice-weekly Atlantic Airways flight from Edinburgh, all other flights to the Faroe Islands originate from within the Schengen area, hence there are no immigration formalities upon arrival. If you’re not arriving from Edinburgh and wish to obtain a passport stamp, you can do so at the airport police station (turn right after exiting the terminal).

Getting There

Air

A view of the magnificent Sørvágsvatn from my SAS Airlines flight as we approach the Faroe Islands.

Flights to the Faroe Islands arrive at the brand new, modern terminal at Vágar Airport, which is located on the island of the same name. The airport is the only one on the Faroe Islands and serves as the main base for the Faroese national carrier – Atlantic Airways.

The following services are offered:

Atlantic Airways – flies to Aalborg (Denmark), Bergen (Norway), Billund (Denmark), Copenhagen (Denmark), Edinburgh (Scotland) & Reykjavík (Iceland)
Scandinavian Airlines – flies to Copenhagen

Airport Transport

Vágar island is connected to the other islands via the under-sea Vágatunnilin which is 4.9 km (3.0 mi) in length and reaches a depth of 105 metres (344 ft) below sea level. Tórshavn is 47 km (29 mi) east of the airport and can be reached in one hour on bus #300, which runs eleven times per day. Shared taxis to Tórshavn (45 mins) cost 200 DKK.

Sea

Smyril Line Route Map.
Source – smyrilline.com

The Tórshavn headquartered Smyril Line operates a weekly car/ passenger ferry service between Denmark, the Faroe Islands and Iceland. Current prices and the sailing schedule are available from their website.

The M/S Norröna sails from Hirtshals (Denmark), docking 36 hours later in Tórshavn before continuing onto Iceland, docking 19 hours later at the eastern port town of Seyðisfjørður. Lonely Planet wrote an article on a journey aboard the boat, which you can read here.

Getting Around

Bus

The SSL bus and ferry route map.<br /> <i>Source: http://www.ssl.fo/en/customer-service/travel-map/</i>

The SSL bus and ferry route map.
Source: http://www.ssl.fo/en/customer-service/travel-map/

Bus services are operated by Strandfaraskip Landsins (SSL), which is a nationally owned transportation company, providing bus and ferries services to all corners of the Faroe Islands. Their website provides the current bus timetable and details on Travel Cards, which are available for 4 or 7 days and provide unlimited travel on buses.

Despite providing a comprehensive service between the main urban centres, SSL buses do not reach the more remote areas of the Faroe Islands. If you wish to fully explore, your best bet is a rental car.

Ferry

Inter-island ferry services are provided by Strandfaraskip Landsins (SSL), who operate eight inter-island ferries (refer to the map above). Their website provides the current timetable and details on Travel Cards, which are available for 4 or 7 days and provide unlimited travel on ferries.

Air

Atlantic Airways – the national airline of the Faroe Islands.

If you wish to travel by air within the islands your only option is to use the helicopter service provided by Atlantic Airways. For current fares, timetables and bookings, please refer to their website.

Rental Car

My rental car, which allowed me to maximise my time on the Faroe Islands.

The best way to maximise your time on the islands is to rent a car. Roads are generally excellent, traffic is light and many of the more picturesque locations are remote and not served by public transport.

Despite their remote location, the Faroe Islands are popular with tourists and demand for cars can sometimes outstrip supply so its best to book in advance.

The following operators can be found at the airport:

62 N (also in downtown Tórshavn)
Avis (also in downtown Tórshavn)
Unicar

The following operators can be found in other locations:

Waag Rental – One of the larger car dealers on the Faroe Islands, Waag operates a side-line car rental business with an office in Miðvágur (a short drive from the airport) and from their main downtown office in Tórshavn.
Guest House Hugo – Also a short drive from the airport in the town of Sørvágur, this cosy guest house can arrange car rental and will collect you from the airport upon arrival.

That’s the end of my Faroe Islands Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Henley Passport Index

7 years ago

Darren McLean

Henley Passport Index

This is a taste2travel post on the Henley Passport Index.

Latest Update – January 2025

Introduction

Updated: January 2025

Henley and Partners of London have just released their 2025 Henley Passport Index to reflect the current strength of all passports.

Index Stats

227 – Number of travel destinations that may require a visa
111 – Global average number of destinations travellers can access visa-free
195 – Number of destinations top-ranked passport can access visa-free
26 – Number of destinations bottom-ranked passport can access visa-free

Once again, Singapore tops the rankings offering visa-free travel to 195 of 227 countries and territories.

Japan occupies 2nd place offering visa-free travel to 193 of 227 countries and territories.

What exactly is the Passport Index?

The Henley Passport Index is the original, authoritative ranking of all the world’s passports according to the number of destinations their holders can access without a prior visa.

For the past 19 years, the index has measured the strength of 199 different passports, and the visa-free access they enjoy to 227 travel destinations – both countries and territories.

A Measure of Passport Power

In 1984, Saint Kitts and Nevis, the smallest sovereign state in the Americas, passed a law offering citizenship to individuals who “made a substantial investment in the state” and were of good character and not a threat to the country.

Since then, other Caribbean nations such as Antigua & Barbuda, Dominica, St. Lucia and Grenada have introduced their own citizenship programs which allow for those willing to pay a substantial fee the opportunity to easily acquire a 2nd passport.

For consulting firms in the residence and citizenship-by-investment industry, there is a need to rank the ‘quality’ or ‘power’ of different passports.

One such firm – Henley & Partners – publish the Henley Passport Index which is an annual ranking of all the passports of the world according to the number of countries their holders can travel to visa-free.

The ranking is based on data provided by the International Air Transport Association (IATA), which maintains a comprehensive database of global travel information. The IATA data is augmented by in-house research conducted by Henley & Partners itself.

Index Mechanics

The index includes 199 different passports and 227 different travel destinations.

For each travel destination, if no visa is required for passport holders from a country or territory, then a score with value = 1 is created for that passport. A score with value = 1 is also applied if passport holders can obtain a visa on arrival, a visitor’s permit, or an Electronic Travel Authority (ETA) when entering the destination.

These visa-types require no pre-departure government approval, because of the specific visa-waiver programs in place.

Where a visa is required, or where a passport holder has to obtain a government-approved electronic visa before departure, a score with value = 0 is assigned. A score with value = 0 is also assigned if passport holders need pre-departure government approval for a visa on arrival, a scenario not considered ‘visa-free’.

The total score for each passport is equal to the number of destinations for which no visa is required (value = 1), under the conditions defined above.

2025 Henley Passport Index

Strongest Passport

Once again – the Singapore passport is the world’s strongest passport in 2025.

Top Ten Strongest Passports

For the 2nd year running, the Singaporean passport is the world’s strongest passport, offering visa-free access to 195 (out of 227) countries and territories.

Rank	Passport	Count
1	Singapore	195
2	Japan	193
3	Finland	192
	France
	Germany
	Italy
	South Korea
	Spain
4	Austria	191
	Denmark
	Ireland
	Luxembourg
	Netherlands
	Norway
	Sweden
5	Belgium	190
	New Zealand
	Portugal
	Switzerland
	United Kingdom
6	Australia	189
6	Greece	189
7	Canada	188
	Malta
	Poland
8	Czechia	187
8	Hungary	187
9	Estonia	186
9	United States	186
10	Latvia	185
	Lithuania
	Slovenia
	United Arab Emirates

Weakest Passport

The Afghanistan passport is, again, the world’s weakest passport in 2024.

In 2024, the world’s weakest passport is the Afghanistan passport, which offers visa-free access to just 26 countries.

Bottom Ten Weakest Passports

At the other end of the index, the weakest passport belongs to Afghanistan, whose citizens can visit just 26 countries visa-free.

Rank	Passport	Count
96	Iran	44
	South Sudan
	Sri Lanka
97	Sudan	43
98	Eritrea	42
99	North Korea	41
100	Bangladesh	40
	Libya
	Palestinian Territory
101	Nepal	39
102	Somalia	35
103	Pakistan	33
103	Yemen	33
104	Iraq	31
105	Syria	27
106	Afghanistan	26

Online Passport Comparison

The Henley & Partners website allows you to compare the strength of your passport and to view the performance of your passport during the 18 years in which the index has been compiled.

How does your passport measure up?

That’s the end of this featured article on the Henley Passport Index.

If you wish to leave any feedback, you can do so using the form below or via the Contact page.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Country & Territory List

7 years ago

Darren McLean

Country & Territory List

Welcome to the taste2travel Country & Territory List!

Last Update: 4th of September 2023

Introduction

A far-away-land, the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia is the World’s largest salt plain.

Once-upon-a-time, in a far away land, I was curious to know how many countries and territories I’d visited.

Whilst I don’t visit destinations simply to tick them off a checklist, after visiting so many places, I needed a way to keep track of where I’d been.

I searched high and low for an editable, electronic list but found nothing suitable so I created my own Countries and Territories list in Excel and built in some basic functionality, sparing me the onerous task of always updating my ‘total’ count.

United Nations Members

The United Nations General Assembly hall in New York City.

Once I started researching, I realised that there are many different types of ‘country’ lists. The United Nations defines a country as those states whose sovereignty is undisputed.

Currently there are 193 such states, with all of them being members of the United Nations. For many “country counters”, the list of 193 UN member countries is the standard reference list which they adhere to.

UN Structure

Member States

Following its independence, Timor-Leste (East Timor) became the 191st member of the United Nations.

With the addition of South Sudan on the 14th of July 2011 to the UN, there are currently a total of 193 UN member states, which includes all undisputed independent states – apart from Vatican City. The UN member states meet in the General Assembly hall at UN Headquarters in New York City.

Non-member States

There are currently two non-member states, the Vatican City (Holy See) and the State of Palestine, which have a standing invitation to participate as observers in the sessions and the work of the General Assembly and maintain permanent observer missions at UN Headquarters.

Limited Recognition States

This cloaked statue of Lenin greets all visitors arriving in Tiraspol, capital of Transnistria.

Additionally, there are currently nine states whose sovereignty is disputed and, hence, are unable to become UN members. Included on this list are Taiwan, Kosovo and Western Sahara, all of which are included on my list.

Another disputed state is Transnistria, which has broken away from neighbouring Moldova. A wonderfully quirky destination, you can read all about it in my Transnistria Travel Guide.

Video: How Many Countries Are There?

Dependent Territories

The ‘Blue Hole of Voh’ in New Caledonia, a French territory in the South Pacific.

One of the limitations of the UN list is that all dependent territories are included under the umbrella of their parent state.

As an example, by spending some time in France, you can tick-off ‘France’, which also includes all the dependent French territories.

This would eliminate the need to visit amazing destinations such as Martinique, Guadeloupe, St. Barts, St. Martin, French Guiana, Réunion, French Polynesia, New Caledonia or even Mayotte (click the links to read my Travel Guides for these destinations). Such a shame!

Those who focus only on visiting the 193 UN member states can rightly claim that they have visited ‘all countries’ in the World, which is semantically correct. However, focusing only on the UN states disregards the many fascinating and engaging territories located around the world.

An incredible sight, Sørvágsvatn is the largest lake in the Faroe Islands, a territory of Denmark.

Once you include dependent territories, you have a choice of including the many uninhabited territories (small islands in the middle of nowhere which are home to a few seabirds) or just the inhabited ones. I chose to include only the populated territories on my list.

There are also two populated territories which serve as sovereign military bases and are off-limits to visitors; Akrotiri and Dhekelia (Cyprus) and the British Indian Ocean Territory, both of which are administered by the United Kingdom.

Such places have been excluded from my list as they are not accessible to the travelling public.

Antarctica

An Adelie Penguin with her chick in Antarctica.

One exception to the rules of inclusion is Antarctica. A truly unique destination, technically no one owns Antarctica, although a lot of people claim it, and you can visit it.

While not a UN member, or a territory of any one country, I have included it on my list.

Sovereign Military Order of Malta

You can read all about the fascinating Sovereign Military Order of Malta in my SMOM Travel Guide.

Then there is the case of the truly bizarre Sovereign Military Order of Malta (click to read my SMOM Travel Guide) which has its own military, currency, postage stamps and passports, and which has permanent observer status at the UN, but doesn’t have any territory.

Headquartered in the opulent Palazzo Malta in Rome, its mission is summed up in its motto:

“Tuitio fidei et obsequium pauperum” (“Defence of the Catholic faith and assistance to the poor”).

The order is led by an elected Prince and Grand Master.

The SMOM is a non-state sovereign entity and is not included in the United Nations, as it claims neither statehood nor territory.

The Order has established full diplomatic relations with 107 sovereign states as a sovereign subject of international law, and also maintains full diplomatic relations with the European Union, the Holy See, and the State of Palestine.

I have not included the Order on my list.

Travel Clubs

Travelers’ Century Club

Based in the United States, the Travelers’ Century Club maintains a list of 330 destinations which its members spend their time visiting. The TCC claims that their list “has widespread recognition as the standard of countries and territories that are of significant interest, as distinct destinations, to serious travellers”.

Membership, which requires an annual fee, is open only to those who can prove that they have visited at least 100 countries.

Most Traveled People

Most Traveled People (MTP) is a free club for travellers who aspire to go “everywhere.”

Where is everywhere? MTP’s master-list includes 1500 destinations for you to tick-off, with most countries broken down into separate states/ provinces/ counties or regions. Enough to keep you busy for a lifetime or two!

Once you’ve finished ticking the boxes, you can view your ranking against the thousands of other members and possibly make the ‘Hall of Fame‘, which lists those members who have visited at least 500 destinations, of which I am one.

The website includes news on the latest exploits of enthusiastic adventurers who risk life and limb on their quest to reach every remote outpost on the planet.

Nomad Mania

Nomadmania is an online community and website that focuses on the concept of world travel and exploration. It is a platform designed for avid travelers and “nomads” who are passionate about visiting and documenting various destinations around the globe.

At its core, Nomadmania aims to encourage travellers to explore as many countries and territories as possible. The website provides a comprehensive list of all the recognised countries and territories in the world and numerous regions, currently standing at 1301 entries. Users can create an account and track their progress by ticking off the places they have visited.

Overall, Nomadmania serves as a hub for travel enthusiasts to connect, inspire each other, and track their global exploration progress. It aims to foster a sense of community among passionate travellers and encourage them to embark on new adventures while discovering the diversity of our world.

Best Country Counting App

Mark O’Travel

My travel map on the Mark O’Travel app, with all countries visited shaded in ‘Yves Klein Blue’, the same blue which is used throughout the Taste2travel website.

There are many free apps which allow you to keep track of the countries you have visited.

The one I use, and recommend, is Mark O’Travel, which, unlike other apps, allows you to select the country list you wish to use and offers much more functionality. The map can be fully tailored including the colours used for specific regions, countries etc.

The basic country list is comprised of the 193 UN Member States, from which you can then add different types of dependent territory lists.

A flag icon is included for each country/ territory, and, for those who wish to be even more specific, region lists are available for many countries.

Pin Traveler

Want to create a wish list for your future travels?

Want to keep track of the countries and territories which you have visited?

Do you want to view your travels on a world map?

Pin Traveler helps you keep track of your trips all around the world and allows you to share your travel accomplishments with whoever you want!

Keep track of countries, states, and cities on your map, and discover your travel stats.

Taste2travel Country & Territory List

The Taste2travel Country & Territory list includes 251 UN+ countries and dependent (populated) territories.

To make this Excel-format list your own, simply click on the ‘Click to Download‘ link below, then place an ‘X‘ next to those destinations you’ve visited.

The only cells which can be edited on the spreadsheet are those in the ‘Visited’ column.

Note: the only cells which can be edited are in the ‘Visited‘ column. All other cells are locked as they do not need to be edited.

Your total count will be displayed at the bottom of the list.

Click to Download [63.51 KB]

Click on the link above to download the Taste2travel Country and Territory List.

That’s the end of this post.

If you wish to provide feedback, I’d love to hear from you. You can contact me using the comments form below or from the ‘Contact’ page.

Safe travels!

Darren

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Amazon River Travel Guide – Part 2

7 years ago

Darren McLean

A painting of the 'Tres Fronteras' (Three Frontiers) region, the tri-meeting point of Colombia, Peru and Brazil which lies deep in the Amazon jungle.

Amazon River Travel Guide – Part 2

Welcome to the taste2travel Amazon River Travel Guide – Part 2!

Forward

A 4,334 kilometre (2,693 mile) meander along the Amazon River from Iquitos, Peru to the Atlantic Ocean in Brazil is an epic voyage and, as such, this travel guide was always going to be monumental in size.

To make the guide more manageable, I have split it into two parts:

Amazon River Travel Guide – Part 1: contains sections on History, Currency, Visa Requirements, Boat Travel and details on destinations in Peru (Iquitos/ Santa Rosa) and Colombia (Leticia).
Amazon River Travel Guide – Part 2: contains details on destinations in Brazil –Tabatinga, Manaus, Santarém, Belém, Marajó Island and Macapá.

Enjoy!

Slowly working my way towards the Atlantic Ocean – on a slow boat down the Amazon River.

Destinations – continued from Part 1

Tabatinga (Brazil)

Introduction

The Brazilian border town of Tabatinga forms a single conurbation with neighbouring Leticia – you can simply walk between the two without passing through any immigration formalities.

Tabatinga is a small, gritty, frontier town with an edgy feel to it – there is nothing redeeming about it. The main reason you would come to Tabatinga is for transit purposes. If you are spending any time in the area, neighbouring Leticia is a much more inviting place to spend time.

I spent a total of 7 days cruising along the Amazon with each day ending with an amazing sunset.

Formalities

While in the three-way border zone, you can travel freely between Leticia (Colombia), Tabatinga (Brazil) and Santa Rosa (Peru) without restriction, although you should carry your passport with you at all times. Once you leave the zone, you’ll need to formerly exit whichever country you are departing and formally enter the country you are arriving into.

If you are travelling further into Brazil (or exiting), you will need to visit the Brazilian immigration office, which is located on the main avenue – Avenida da Amizade (Avenue of Friendship). If coming from Leticia, it’s best to take a taxi to the office.

The Brazilian authorities will not stamp you into Brazil until you have been stamped out of your previous country (they do check for your exit stamp).

If you’re traveling on either a Canadian, Australian or United States passport, you will need to obtain a Brazilian visa in advance. There are no visa’s issued upon arrival. Please refer to the ‘Visa Requirement‘ section below for more details.

A passenger ferry near Belém.

Sightseeing

There are no sights to see.

Accommodation

Better accommodation options can be found in Leticia – please refer to that section.

Eating Out

Better restaurant options can be found in Leticia – please refer to that section.

Getting There/ Away

Air

Tabatinga International Airport (IATA: TBT) is located one kilometre from downtown Tabatinga and provides one connection to Manaus, which is operated by Azul Brazilian Airlines.

Boat

Sunset over the Amazon River.

Slow boats to Manaus:

There are two slow boats which depart from Porto Fluvial in Tabatinga each Wednesday and Saturday at 11:00 AM, covering the 1,628 kilometres (1011 miles) journey in 4 days. The cost for hammock space is R$200 while a two-bed cabin costs R$1000. Meals and drinks are available on-board.

Fast boats to Manaus:

Rocketing along the Amazon river on a fast boat from Tabatinga to Manaus.

Fast boats between Tabatinga and Manaus are operated by Cris Transporte Maritimo (also known as Ajato) – who manage a fleet of fast lancha’s. You can access their Facebook page at Gloria de Deus III.

A meal served in my seat on the fast boat from Tabatinga to Manaus.

Currently one fast boat a week travels between Tabatinga and Manaus, departing from the Porto Fluvial on Friday morning, arriving in Manaus 30 hours later.

A one-way ticket costs R$550, which secures you a comfortable aircraft-style seat (i.e. you are sitting upright for the entire journey), access to clean bathrooms and all inclusive meals, which are served in-seat.

Travelling from Tabatinga to Manaus on a fast boat.

Road

You can easily walk across the border between Colombia and Brazil by following the Avenida da Amizade – or you can take one of the many taxis and moto-taxis which cross the border freely.

Getting Around

Boat

Water taxis connect Tabatinga with the Peruvian settlement of Santa Rosa from where you can board boats to Iquitos, Peru.

Road

There are plenty of regular taxis and motorbike taxis on the streets of Tabatinga.

Manaus

A long way from the sea – 1,400 km upriver, an ocean-going freighter approaches Manaus port.

Introduction

With 2.1 million inhabitants, Manaus is the largest city on the Amazon (the 2nd largest is Belém with 1.5 million) and it’s busiest port. The city is located on the banks of the Rio Negro (the largest left tributary of the Amazon River and, the largest black-water river in the world) a few miles before it meets the Rio Solimões to form the Amazon River properly.

The two rivers flow side by side for many miles, different in colour, mixing in eddies: the “Meeting of the Waters.”

Despite being situated 1,400 km (900 miles) upriver from the Atlantic ocean, the Amazon is navigable for ocean-going vessels and the main economic engine of Manaus is the Duty Free port and the Manaus Free Economic Zone.

The Theatro Amazonas, Manaus.

During colonial times, great wealth was generated from rubber plantations during the period known as the Amazon Rubber Boom (1879 to 1912). The proceeds from this boom were used to build magnificent buildings, including a copy of the Grand Opera de Paris – the Teatro Amazonas. Other monuments from this period are the Mercado Municipal, a copy of the famous market halls Les Halles in Paris, and the arts centre Palacio Rio Negro.

Apart from a wealth of history and sights, Manaus serves as a regional travel hub offering onward travel possibilities to Boa Vista, Guyana and Venezuela.

Two girls on the slow boat from Santarém to Belém.

If you’re spending time meandering along the river, Manaus is the best place to take timeout, offering a good choice of accommodation, fine restaurants, bars and cafes and the biggest shopping mall on the Amazon – Amazonas Shopping.

Sightseeing

Theatro Amazonas

The most monumental building in the Amazon region, the opulent Manaus Opera House.

Dominating downtown Manaus, the spectacular Theatro Amazonas is certainly one of the most impressive sights in the entire Amazon region.

Constructed during the years of the rubber boom, when the city was awash with money, no expense was spared on its construction with the roof tiles being imported from Alsace, the steel walls from Glasgow and Carrara marble from Italy.

The ornate interior of the Theatro Amazonas, Manaus.

The dome is covered with 36,000 decorated ceramic tiles painted in the colours of the national flag of Brazil. Concerts are held often and tickets are very affordable at about US$10 each. I saw an amazing concert which showcased the culture of the Amazon, definitely a highlight of my stay!

Mercado Municipal

This ‘touristy’ riverside market is very clean and organised. It’s a good place to buy souvenirs or to have a refreshing fruit juice (made from amazing Amazonian fruits).

Meeting of the Waters

The ‘Meeting of the Waters’, down-river from Manaus.

The ‘Meeting of the Waters’ is one of the most popular sights in Manaus, but actually isn’t in Manaus. In order to see this interesting phenomenon, you’ll need to book yourself onto a boat sightseeing trip or take a slow boat down the Amazon.

This attraction lies at the point where the dark Rio Negro mixes with the sandy-coloured upper Amazon River, or Solimões, as it is known in Brazil.

Despite their coming-together, and due to their different properties, they do not immediately mix, but flow alongside each other. This Meeting of the Waters stretches for 6 km (3.7 miles) before the two different waters eventually blend together.

Our boat from Manaus to Santarém passing through the ‘Meeting of the Waters’.

This phenomenon is due to the differences in temperature, speed, and amount of dissolved sediments in the waters of the two rivers. The Rio Negro flows at near 2 km/h at a temperature of 28 °C, while the Rio Solimões flows between 4 and 6 km/h at a temperature of 22 °C.

The light-coloured water is rich with sediment from the river bed since the Andes Mountains, whereas the black water, running from the Colombian hills and interior jungles, is nearly sediment-free and coloured by decayed leaf and plant matter.

Accommodation

The best place to stay is in the historic old town where you have a good selection of guest houses, restaurants, bars and cafes and everything is within walking distance.

I stayed at the wonderful Boutique Hotel Casa Teatro which is across the road from the Opera house and in close proximity to all the sights in the old town. The neighbourhood is very pedestrian friendly with loads of dining and entertainment options.

If you prefer something more modern, there are many international chain hotels in the new town. There are plenty of options on booking.com

Eating Out

There is no shortage of good restaurants in Manaus, including a quirky revolving restaurant which is located on the top of the Taj Mahal Hotel. The décor is very 1970’s and the restaurant is tired and worn. It all feels like you’re on the set of a vintage James Bond movie set – waiting for the bad guys to arrive. The food, service and views are worthwhile and besides – where else can you eat in a revolving restaurant in the jungle?

Shopping

Manaus offers the same sort of shopping opportunities you would expect to find in any large metropolis. Something that is unexpected in the middle of the jungle is the glitzy, modern shopping mall – Amazonas Shopping – a short taxi ride from downtown. Whatever you need, you’ll find it here, along with a good selection of restaurants.

Getting There/ Away

A budding photographer on the 36-hour slow boat from Manaus to Santarém.

Air

If you don’t fancy spending days traveling on a slow boat along the Amazon river (or if you’re not arriving on a bus from Boa Vista) then flying is your only other option for reaching this remote jungle metropolis. Flights arrive at Manaus International Airport – Eduardo Gomes, which is located 13 kilometres (8 miles) west of downtown.

The following airlines provide regular services:

American Airlines – flies to/ from Miami
Azul Brazilian Airlines – flies to/ from Belém, Belo Horizonte-Confins, Boa Vista, Campinas, Cuiabá, Fortaleza, Parintins, Porto Velho, Santarém, Tabatinga, Tefé
Avior Airlines – flies to/ from Barcelona (Venezuela)
Copa Airlines – flies to/ from Panama City–Tocumen
Gol Airlines – flies to/ from Belém, Belo Horizonte, Boa Vista, Buenos Aires-Ezeiza, Brasília, Campo Grande, Cruzeiro do Sul, Cuiabá, Curitiba, Fortaleza, Foz do Iguaçu, Porto Alegre, Porto Velho, Recife, Rio Branco, Rio de Janeiro-Galeão, Salvador da Bahia, Santarém, São Luís, São Paulo-Guarulhos
LATAM Brasil – flies to/ from Belém, Boa Vista, Brasília, Fortaleza, Miami, Salvador da Bahia, São Paulo-Guarulhos
MAP Linhas Aéreas – flies to/ from Altamira, Belém, Carauari, Eirunepé, Lábrea, Parintins, Santarém, Tefé
Rima – flies to/ from Lábrea, Porto Velho
TAP Air Portugal – flies to/ from Lisbon
Total Linhas Aéreas – flies to/ from Carauari, Coari, Porto Urucu

A Lost Connection

The national airline of Curaçao, Insel Air, use to provide a very convenient connection from Manaus to Aruba. It was a great way of getting from the jungle onto a white-sand, Caribbean beach in just a few hours.

The flights were never well patronised and not surprisingly the service was terminated. I once took this flight from Manaus to Aruba, which I shared with just one other passenger. The Captain personally came to thank us for flying.

I shared this Insel Air flight from Manaus to Aruba with just one other passenger.

Road

Despite the fanciful lines often drawn onto road maps of Brazil, there are no roads connecting Manaus with the rest of Brazil – except for route BR174 which runs north to the Venezuelan border via Boa Vista (capital of Roraima state). This asphalt highway is in excellent condition, and the buses which ply the route are comfortable and fast.

To Boa Vista:

Frequent night buses run between Manaus and Boa Vista with the 746 kilometre journey taking approximately 12-13 hours. Three different companies offer multiple daily trips with fares ranging from R$157 – R$210. Eucatur offer the only daytime service which departs Manaus at 10:00, arriving in Boa Vista at 21:55. You can book tickets online here.

To Venezuela:

The Venezuelan border is 960 kilometres north of Manaus at the end of BR174. Any journey to the border will require a change of transport in Boa Vista (please refer to the ‘Boa Vista – Getting There‘ section for more details).

To Guyana:

There are no direct transport options from Manaus to Guyana. Like Venezuela, you will first need to travel to Boa Vista then take a bus or shared taxi to the border town of Bonfim then cross the Takutu River Bridge, entering Guyana at the town of Lethem (please refer to the ‘Boa Vista – Getting There‘ section for more details).

Boat

Amazon river ‘slow’ boats docked in Manaus.

Manaus is the busiest port on the Amazon with regular boats departing to all points along the river. Tickets should be purchased in advance from the ticket offices at the dock.

Slow Boats:

Slow boats depart from the chaotic and crowded docks in downtown Manaus. Departures include:

Manaus to Tabatinga: The up-river journey can take anywhere from 5-7 days. The cost for hammock space is R$330 while a cabin costs R$414 per person (two sharing). Meals and drinks are included.
Manaus to Santarém: The down-river journey takes about 30 hours. The cost for hammock space is R$80 while a cabin costs R$700 per person. Meals and drinks are not included.
Manaus to Belém: The down-river journey takes 80 hours with hammock space costing R$220. Meals and drinks are not included.

The captain of my slow boat from Manaus to Santarém.

Fast Boats:

Currently four fast boats a week operate between Manaus and the border town of Tabatinga, completing the 1,628 kilometres (1011 miles) journey in 36 hours. Each boat offers comfortable aircraft-style seats, clean bathrooms and all inclusive meals which are served at your seat.

All boats depart from the ‘Terminal Ajato‘ wharf in Manaus as per the following timetable (current at March 2018):

The MV Expresso Madame Cris: Departs Thursday at 06:00 am (R$550 per seat)
The MV Expresso Gloria de Deus III: Departs Friday at 06:00 am (R$600)
The MV Expresso Cidade de Manaquiri: Departs Sunday at 06:00 am (R$600)
The MV Expresso Crystal I: Departs Tuesday at 06:00 am (R$600)

The company previously operated a fast boat from Manaus to Santarém but unfortunately suspended their service, leaving passengers at the mercy of the slow (30 hours) boats.

Seating on the boats is limited so it’s best to book tickets in advance on their website (only available in Portuguese) or from their ticket office at the wharf in Manaus. If booking from the wharf you’ll need to show your passport.

Santarém

Introduction

Located on the southern bank of the Tapajós River, at the point where it meets the Amazon River, Santarém lies approximately at the midway point between Manaus and Belém. This city of 300,000 has a good selection of accommodation, restaurants and a few sights, making it an ideal place for a few days’ stopover on a trip along the Amazon River.

Nearby, the pleasant, relaxed riverside town of Alter do Chão offers stunning beaches, amazing restaurants and lots of charming Pousada’s, making it an ideal destination for some well-earned R&R.

Sightseeing

Within town, there are enough sights to keep you occupied for a day, but the main draw is the riverside town of Alter do Chão, which is 40 km west of Santarém.

Santarém

The historic Catedral Metropolitana de Santarém dominates the main square of Santarém.

Overlooking bustling Praca de Matriz, the elegant, powder-blue, Catedral Metropolitana de Santarém Santarém Metropolitan was consecrated in 1761, on the site of the first permanent building in the city.

A congregation celebrating mass at the Catedral Metropolitana de Santarém.

The church occupies a commanding position in the old town, close to the river, and while it has an opulent exterior, its interior is very simple and unpretentious.

Mercado Modelo (Amazon Fish Market)

Different species of Amazon fish can be seen at the Mercado Modelo in downtown Santerem.

Across the street from the Teatro Municipal Victória, the Mercado Modelo is the main market in town, where you can get up close with the amazingly large fish that call the Amazon river home.

The Mercado Modelo in Santarém is a great place to view the giant species of fish which inhabit the depths of the Amazon river.

If you’re in the mood to cook up a Piranha, the Mercado Modelo is the place to shop.

Museu Dica Frazão

Dica Frazão providing me with a tour of her unique collection in 2014. Sadly, she passed away in 2017.

Located downtown, the Museu Dica Frazão is a small museum, which is attached to the Frazão family home. This museum displays the amazing creations of Dica Frazão who was born in 1920. She makes women’s clothing and fabrics from natural fibres such as grasses and wood pulp. The work is extremely detailed and most very beautiful.

Items on display include a tablecloth made for Pope John Paul II, ornate handbags, elegant robes and much more. The works are intricate and (as told by Dica herself), very time consuming to produce with some items requiring months of work.

On a sad note, Dica Frazão died at the age of 96 in 2017, but the museum continues with a display room of her creations.

Alter do Chão

Flood waters from the wet season inundate the beaches and promenade at Alter do Chão.

Located on the banks of the Tapajós River, a short bus ride southwest of Santarém is the beautiful, historic village of Alter do Chão, which is also known as the “Caribbean in Brazil“.

Famous for it’s many white-sand river beaches (which contrast spectacularly against the dark water of the Tapajós River), Alter do Chão is where the locals flock to for weekend recreation.

The size of the beaches vary depending on the season – I was there during the wet season so many of the beaches had been totally inundated by flood waters.

A short distance offshore, in the middle of the river, is the beautifully named, and simply wonderful Ilha do Amor (Island of Love). You can either swim to the island or hire a kayak for R$5.

The beaches are also popular with stingrays who like to rest on the sandy bottom. They’ll only sting when stepped on, so the local advice is to shuffle your feet when you walk in the water.

Accommodation

There are plenty of accommodation options in downtown Santarém, all a short walk from the riverfront. I stayed at the Pôr do Sol Hotel, which is located outside of the centre – on the road to the airport – and offers modern, spacious, comfortable rooms at a reasonable price. Booking.com currently lists 15 different properties in the city.

With its sandy beaches and relaxed ambiance, Alter do Chão is an ideal place to relax. Booking.com currently list 28 different properties, many of them reasonably priced Pousada’s.

Eating Out

Piranha can be found on many restaurant menus in Santarém.

Lining the Amazon river waterfront in Santarém are a good selection of restaurants. One of my favourites is Restaurante Nossa Casa, where you can sample fresh Amazonian fish such as Tambaqui, Piranha and Pirarucu (also known as Arapaima) – one of the largest freshwater fish in the world.

Getting There/ Away

Air

Santarém is served by the Santarém–Maestro Wilson Fonseca Airport (IATA: STM), which is named after the famous local composer – Wilson Fonseca.

The following airlines fly to/ from Santarém:

Azul Brazilian Airlines – flies to/from Altamira, Belém, Carajás, Manaus, Parintins, Porto de Trombetas
Gol Airlines – flies to/from Brasília, Fortaleza, Manaus, Recife, Rio de Janeiro-Galeão, Salvador da Bahia
LATAM Brasil – flies to/from Belém, Brasília
MAP Linhas Aéreas – flies to/from Altamira, Belém, Manaus, Parintins
Piquiatuba – flies to/from Altamira, Belém, Itaituba, Novo Progresso

Boat

A typical Amazon river settlement between Santarém and Belém.

Boats to Macapá (hammock R$140 including meals, 36 hours, 6:00 PM daily) arrive and depart from Praça Tiradentes, which is located one kilometre west of downtown.

Boats to Manaus and Belém arrive and depart from the Docas do Pará, which is 2.5 kilometres west of downtown. Slow boats travelling upriver to Manaus depart from Santarém daily (except Sunday).

Boats to Manaus

The only option to Manaus is a slow boat with one boat leaving each day (except Sunday) at 12:00 pm. The journey upriver takes 48 hours (versus 36 hours for the downriver trip) with hammock class costing R$130 (USD$32) and a cabin costing R$500 (USD$92).

While agents around town will sell you a ticket at an inflated price, its best to purchase your tickets directly at the Docas do Pará.

Boats to Belém

My cabin on the ‘MV Amazonia’, a slow boat which carried me from Santarém to Belém in 48 hours.

The only option to Belém is a slow boat with boats departing from Docas do Pará at 11:00 am most days. Tickets for the 48 hour journey can be purchased at the port and cost R$180 for hammock-class or R$800 for a private cabin.

The crew of the MV Amazonia loading freight into the hold at Santarém.

I travelled in a cabin on the MV Amazonia which was a pleasant but long (48 hours) journey. We departed Santarém many hours late, while we waited for the crew to load freight into the hold by hand.

Loading sacks of coconuts at Monte Alegre.

In the early hours of the morning the next day, we arrived at the small town of Monte Alegre where the boat docked for an hour or so while huge sacks of coconut were loaded into the hold of the boat.

And so it continued for the rest of the journey, stopping at every settlement to pick up freight.

Patience is a virtue on the Amazon River!

Storm clouds over the Amazon river near Belém.

Getting Around

Public Bus

Municipal buses run regularly to all points in Santarém and to Alter do Chão and the airport.

Taxi

Taxis are plentiful in Santarém and can be hailed on the street. If you wish to reserve a taxi to/from the airport, you can contact the Airport Taxi service company on +55 93 35 22 39 36.

Belém

Located one degree south of the Equator, Belém is one of the wettest places on the planet with almost daily storms.

Introduction

With a population of 1.5 million, Belém is the largest city (and capital) of Pará state and the 2nd largest city on the Amazon River, after Manaus. Founded in 1616 on the banks of the Pará River by Portugal, Belém was the first European colony on the Amazon but did not become part of Brazil until 1775.

Most afternoons, the city of Belém is enveloped by fierce tropical storms.

The city blossomed during the rubber boom of the late 19th century and early 20th century when it accounted for nearly 40 per cent of the country’s rubber exports. The city today is an economic hub with a charming old town at it’s core, which is surrounded by a forest of high rise buildings which comprise the modern new town.

Monuments such as the ornate Theatro da Paz were built in Belém using riches from the rubber boom.

Belém, which translates as Bethlehem, is also known as the City of Mango Trees, due to the vast number of Mango trees which line the city streets. If you visit during Mango season, you’ll find the footpaths littered with fallen fruit.

The city is a centre of culture and learning in Northern Brazil and home to the Museu Paraense Emílio Goeldi, a Natural History and Ethnography museum focused on the fauna, flora and cultures of the Amazon Basin – a ‘must see’ for anyone with an interest in anything ‘Amazon‘.

Sightseeing

Ver-o-Peso Market

Souvenir stalls at the ‘Ver-o-Peso’ market in Belém.

Created in 1688 by the Portuguese who decided to levy a tax on everything entering and leaving Amazonia, the Ver-o-Peso market is the main market for Belém and one of its main tourist attractions. The markets name is derived from the fact that the tax collector’s main post was located in a house which was called the “Casa do Haver-o-peso” (“Have-the-Weight House”). It was in this house that goods were weighed then taxed.

Peppers for sale at the ‘Ver-o-Peso’ market in Belém.

Today the market sprawls over 9 acres of prime riverfront land and is divided into different sections selling meat, fish, fruits, arts, crafts and traditional medicines (which includes an Amazonian version of Viagra).

Preparing a fiery pepper sauce at the ‘Ver-o-Peso’ market in Belém.

The Brazil Nut

Brazil nuts on sale at the ‘Ver-o-Peso’ market in Belem.

One of the most popular products offered at the ‘Ver-o-Peso’ market is the ubiquitous Brazil nut, where a kilo of freshly shelled nuts will cost you R$32 (US$10).

Brazil nuts on sale at the ‘Ver-o-Peso’ market for $R32 (USD$10) per kilo.

In German, the Brazil nut is known as the Para nut, being named after the state of Para of which Belém is the capital. In Portuguese, the nut is known as Castanha do Brasil.

Raw Brazil nuts ready for processing at the Ver-o-Peso market in Belem.

Unlike other nuts, the shell of the Brazil nut does not crack open so the nut can be easily removed. Instead, sellers need to use a knife or guillotine to cut the shell away (piece by piece) from each nut, which is very time consuming and labour intensive.

Unlike most nuts, the hard shell of the Brazil nut cannot be cracked open but must be cut from the nut – piece by piece.

Some nut sellers prefer to remove the shell using a knife rather than a guillotine.

Some traders use small guillotines to remove the shell, which is a little faster than a knife.

Seeing the effort involved in removing the shell of the Brazil nut gives you a greater appreciation of each nut.

After spending time watching the difficult shelling process, I now have a new-found appreciation for these special treats.

Estação das Docas

A former dock on the Amazon river, Estação das Docas has been converted into a modern entertainment area with restaurants, cafes and bars.

Estação das Docas – located on the waterfront, next to Ver-o-Peso market, this former dock and warehouse complex has been transformed into an eating and entertainment space. The main draw is the excellent Cervejaria Amazon – a craft beer brewery (for more on this, please refer to the Eating Out section below).

Forte do Presépio

The Portuguese-built, Forte do Presépio, overlooks the Amazon river in historic Belém.

Located on the riverfront, a short walk from Ver-o-Peso market, Forte do Presépio was built by the Portuguese in the 17th century when the city was founded. Today you can visit a small museum and view the cannons lined up along the river.

In the area surrounding the fort are other historical buildings such as Santo Alexandre Church, which has been converted into a Museum of Sacred Art.

Also nearby is the refined and elegant Casa das Onze Janelas (House of Eleven Windows), which was originally built as a residence for a wealthy sugar plantation owner and today houses the Belém Museum of Contemporary Art.

Belém Cathedral

The imposing interior of Belém Cathedral.

Across the road from the fort is the imposing Belém Cathedral (also known as Our Lady of Grace Cathedral) which has neoclassical and baroque influences. Constructed in 1748, the church is the oldest in the city.

Theatro da Paz

The imposing exterior of Theatro da Paz in Belém.

Like the Opera House in Manaus, the Theatro da Paz (Peace Theatre) in Belém was built during the golden age of the rubber boom in the neoclassical style. Overlooking Praça da República (Republic Square), the theatre is open daily for tours which are interesting and informative. Reasonably priced concerts are conducted most evening.

Paraense Emilio Goeldi Museum

Located away from the centre of town, the Paraense Emilio Goeldi Museum is a research institute and museum dedicated to studying and cataloguing the fauna, flora and cultures of the Amazon basin. Originally named the Pará Museum of Natural History and Ethnography, and was later named in honour of Swiss naturalist Émil August Goeldi who reorganized the institution and was its director from 1894 to 1905. The museum is set among lush, tropical gardens and usually features exhibits focused on the indigenous tribes of the Amazon. This is a must-see for anyone interested in the Amazon region.

Mosqueiro Island

Located 67 kilometres north of downtown Belém (near to the Atlantic ocean), the river island of Mosqueiro offers some of the best sandy beaches in the region – 17 kilometres of them. Regular taxis and buses connect Belém and the island, which is especially busy on weekends.

Accommodation

My deluxe, reasonably priced, room at the Golden Tulip Hotel in Belém.

From historical, old town guest houses to modern, high rise hotels, Belém offers a good selection of accommodation for all budgets. One of my favourite hotels is the Radisson, which offers spacious, modern rooms, often at discounted prices. The hotel is located on Avenida Bras de Aguiar, close to many fine restaurants, bars and cafés.

Also nearby is the Golden Tulip Hotel which offers a rooftop pool and deluxe rooms. Booking.com currently list 62 properties in the city.

Eating Out

The Cervejaria Amazon in Belém is the only craft brewery on the Amazon River.

Located on the banks of the Pará River, the Estação das Docas is a former dock/ warehouse complex which has been converted into a dining, shopping and entertainment space.

The most important tenant (and by far the largest) is the Cervejaria Amazon, the only craft brewery on the Amazon River. Beers are brewed using local Amazonian fruits such as Taperebá, Bacuri, Açaí and Cupuaçu.

Craft beer range from Cervejaria Amazon Beer in Belém.

Whatever you’re in the mood for, you’ll find it in the streets around Avenida Bras de Aguiar. This is also a nice neighbourhood in which to base yourself with a good selection of accommodation options (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section above).

Getting There

Air

Belém is served by the Val de Cans International Airport (IATA: BEL)

The following airlines fly to/ from Belém:

Avianca Brazil – flies to/ from Brasília, São Paulo-Guarulhos
Azul Brazilian Airlines – flies to/ from Altamira, Belo Horizonte-Confins, Campinas, Carajás, Cayenne, Fort Lauderdale, Cuiabá, Fortaleza, Imperatriz, Macapá, Manaus, Marabá, Palmas, Porto de Trombetas, Recife, Rio de Janeiro-Santos Dumont, Salvador da Bahia, Santarém, São Luís, São Paulo-Guarulhos, Tucuruí
Gol Airlines – flies to/ from Brasília, Cruzeiro do Sul, Fortaleza, Macapá, Manaus, Marabá, Paramaribo-Zanderij, Porto Velho, Recife, Rio Branco, Rio de Janeiro-Galeão, Salvador da Bahia, Santarém, São Luís, São Paulo-Congonhas, São Paulo-Guarulhos
LATAM Brasil – flies to/ from Brasília, Curitiba, Fortaleza, Macapá, Manaus, Marabá, Miami, Rio de Janeiro-Galeão, Santarém, São Paulo-Guarulhos
MAP Linhas Aéreas – flies to/ from Altamira, Manaus, Parintins, Santarém
Piquiatuba – flies to/ from Altamira, Itaituba, Novo Progresso, Santarém
Surinam Airways – flies to/ from Cayenne, Paramaribo-Zanderij
TAP Air Portugal – flies to/ from Lisbon

Boat

A moonlit Amazon River as seen from my boat as we slowly approached Belém.

Belém is a major transport hub for Amazon River traffic with regular boats departing from its docks heading upriver to all ports including Santarém & Manaus. Heading in the opposite direction – regular boats make the 24-hour crossing of the mouth of the Amazon River to the northern city of Macapá, while daily ferries connect the city with nearby Marajó Island.

Santarém

The glow of bustling Belém lights up the sky as I approach on my slow boat from Santerem – the end of a 48 hour journey.

Slow boats for Santarém (72 hours) depart Belém from Terminal Hidroviário 2 days a week – Wednesday and Friday. Tickets can be purchased directly from the company at the terminal and cost R$130 for hammock class or ?? for cabin class. Food is available for purchase with breakfast typically costing R$5 and a lunch and dinner buffet costing R$

Macapá

On-board the M/V Sao Francisco de Paula leaving Belém for Macapá, a journey of 24 hours.

Slow boats travel twice a week from Belém to Macapá, departing Belém at 10:00 am every Wednesday and Saturday. The 482 kilometre (300 mile) journey across the mouth of the Amazon river (the largest river mouth in the world) takes 24 hours with boats arriving in the Macapá port suburb of Santana.

The captain of the M/V Sao Francisco de Paula steering a course to Macapá.

I travelled on the M/V Sao Francisco de Paula, paying R$225 for a berth in a private cabin – hammock space is available for R$120. Food and drinks are available on board.

The Brazilians love to party so many of the Amazon river boats, including the M/V Sao Francisco de Paula, include live entertainment.

Açaí Berries

Açaí merchants loading their haul onto the Sao Francisco de Paula ready for transportation from the remote jungle to Macapá.

During our trip from Belém to Macapá, we stopped mid-river, in the middle of nowhere, and were quickly surrounded by small boats which were filled to the brim with baskets of freshly picked Açaí berries, an Amazonian super-fruit which has become hugely popular around the world.

The Sao Francisco de Paula provides an important link to market for these Açaí merchants who live in the middle of the jungle.

The crews on these boats then proceeded to load our boat with dozens of large baskets filled with Açaí berries which were destined for a processing plant in Macapá.

Açaí being loaded (mid-river) onto our boat for transportation from the middle of the jungle to Macapá.

This bounty of berries was the harvest from several indigenous communities and our boat was the only means of transporting their product out of the jungle.

A whole section of the M/V Sao Francisco de Paula was reserved for Açaí transportation.

The Açaí berry is considered a super-fruit which is loaded with a high level of anti-oxidants. Along with fish and cassava, Açaí is a key part of the diet of communities living along the Amazon River where the skinny Açaí palms are commonly found.

Açaí berries are exported all over the world from the Amazon region.

The berries are harvested twice a year, with the first harvest between January and June, while the other is between August and December. My visit coincided with the 2nd harvest, which is the larger and more important.

After timber exports, Açaí berries are the 2nd most valuable export item for the Amazon region.

Although Brazil is famous for its production of Açaí , the species is native to Brazil, Ecuador, Venezuela, Colombia, Guyana, French Guiana, Suriname and Trinidad and Tobago where it grows in swamps and floodplains.

Açaí palms in the grounds of the Casarão da Amazônia hotel on Marajó Island.

Açaí palms, such as the ones pictured here in the garden of the Casarão da Amazônia hotel on Marajó Island, are tall, slender trees growing to more than 25 m (82 ft) in height.

Marajó Island

The captain of our ferry from Marajó Island to Belém, with the usual afternoon storm raging outside.

Passenger ferries leave Belém daily from the Terminal Hidroviário (Pier 9), arriving approximately 3.5 hours later in the port of Camará. Please refer to the Marajo Island section for more details.

The daily afternoon storm rages over Belém as we return from Marajó Island.

Bus

Unlike most other cities along the Amazon River, Belém is connected to the main Brazilian road network. Frequent buses depart from the large Terminal Rodoviario de Belem (website only available in Portuguese) to a number of major cities in Brazil as well as other cities and smaller towns in Pará.

You can check timetables, costs and current seat availability online using the Busca Onibus website.

Getting Around

Road

Taxi’s in Belém are plentiful and relatively inexpensive for short distances.

There are many local buses travelling all over the city, although it can be difficult for non-Portuguese speakers to figure out the timetables and routes. Best to take a taxi or walk.

Marajó Island

The view from atop my Buffalo at São Jerônimo Farm, Marajó Island.

Introduction

With a population of 200,000 living on an island the size of Switzerland in the mouth of the Amazon River, sparsely populated Marajó Island remains a world apart.

Almost all of the island is undeveloped, a huge virgin wetland which is the exclusive playground for tens of thousands of birds.

A Pileated Woodpecker on Marajó Island.

The tiny human population clings to a small strip of the eastern shore, living in the towns of Joanes, Salvaterra and Soure (the quiet, relaxed ‘capital’ of Marajó).

The streets of Soure are very quiet as there are few cars on the island but it’s here you’ll find the best accommodation and dining options.

A boardwalk provides access to the mangrove swamp at São Jerônimo Farm, Marajó Island.

Sightseeing

There are few man-made sights on the island but plenty of stunning natural sights. A wonderful introduction to the beauty of the island is offered by the owners of the Fazenda São Jerônimoe (São Jerônimo Farm), which is located 3 kilometres north of Soure on the road to Praia do Pesqueiro.

Marajó Island features miles of deserted, sandy beaches, including Praia do Pesqueiro.

During a two hour tour, you get to ride a buffalo (the buffalo population on the island out-numbers the human population), walk on an elevated boardwalk through a mangrove, stroll along a deserted sandy beach, then return to the farm via a boat ride through the mangrove, where you can spot many different birds, including Scarlet Ibis.

Accommodation

An old boat serves as a curb-side garden outside the Casarão da Amazônia hotel in Soure, the sleepy capital of Marajó Island.

Booking.com lists 12 properties on Marajó Island, most of which line the quiet (traffic-free) streets of Soure. While on the island, I stayed at (and would recommend) Casarão da Amazônia which is set in a renovated, brightly painted, colonial mansion (built in 1896) and is a 3-minute walk from the centre of Soure.

Update 15/11/2020: Due to the Covid pandemic, the Casarão da Amazônia is closed until 30/06/2021.

The hotel provides breakfast and features a swimming pool, spacious, charming rooms and a beautiful garden with various (labelled) local fruit trees and Açaí palms.

The Casarão da Amazônia hotel is housed in a renovated colonial-era mansion.

Eating

On an island where Buffalo are so numerous, it should come as no surprise that there are many opportunities to sample this lean (much healthier than fatty beef) and tasty meat. There are numerous restaurants in downtown Soure offering Buffalo meals and local fish dishes.

Getting There

Air

There is one small (non-commercial) airport in Soure. Air taxis can apparently be chartered from Belém.

Boat

Boats at Camará port, the main gateway to Marajó Island.

The only real way of getting to Marajo is via the daily passenger ferries which depart Belém from the Terminal Hidroviário Pier 9, arriving 3.5 hours later at Foz do Rio Camará – Terminal Hidroviário.

Mini buses transfer passengers from Camará port to Soure (35 kilometres/ 1.5 hours), via the smaller town of Savaterra, which lies on the opposite bank of the Paracauari River.

Timetable Belém/ Marajó:

Monday to Saturday: 6.30 and 14.30
Sunday: 10.00

Timetable Marajó/ Belém :

Monday to Saturday: 6.30 and 15.00
Sunday: 15.00

Tickets cost R$20,00 in economy class or R$35,00 in 1st class.

Returning to Belém on the ferry from Marajó Island.

Getting Around

The streets of Soure are eerily quiet due to an absence of cars on Marajó Island.

Road

Mini Buses connect the two towns of Soure and Salvaterra with Camará port.

Macapá

View of the Amazon River from Fortaleza de São José de Macapá.

Introduction

It’s actually easier to reach Macapá from neighbouring French Guiana than from the rest of Brazil, thanks to a highway that connects the city with Cayenne, the capital.

Canine-class on the boat from Belém to Macapá.

Macapá is strategically located on the northern channel of the Amazon River, near its mouth on the Atlantic ocean. At 400 kilometres (250 miles) across, the mouth is the widest in the world and effectively isolates Macapá from the rest of Brazil. The city has no land connections to other parts of Brazil, except other cities in Amapá state and French Guiana.

A boat cruising on the wide mouth of the Amazon River near Macapá.

I arrived in the capital of Amapá state after spending a leisurely 24-hours crossing the mouth of the river on a slow boat from Belém (see the ‘Getting There – Boat‘ section below for details on the journey). During the colonial period the state was called Portuguese Guiana and so it was fitting that Macapá should serve as the launch pad for my foray into the other Guiana’s.

Macapá (pop: 500,000) is a relaxed, laid-back capital and, while not brimming with attractions, is a pleasant enough place to spend time recuperating between journey’s. I spent two days in the city before boarding a night bus to Oiapoque on the French Guiana border.

Sightseeing

Fortalzeza de Sao Jose de Macapá

The Portuguese-built Fortalzeza de Sao Jose de Macapá stands at the mouth of the Amazon river at Macapá.

The main attraction in Macapá is the sprawling ruin of the fort – Fortalzeza de Sao Jose de Macapá. The fort was built at the mouth of the Amazon by the Portuguese from 1764 to 1782 as a defence against the French who took control of what is now French Guiana in 1677. Entrance to the fort is free and while all information is in Portuguese, the sweeping views of the Amazon river require no translation.

Marco Zero Monument

The Marco Zero monument in Macapa indicates the Equatorial line.

Located 6 kilometres from downtown on Avenue Equatorial, the Marco Zero monument was built to mark the position of the equator, which cuts through the city. Where else can you stand on the equator? Or stand in both hemispheres? Or hop/ skip over the equator?

The 30-metre tall tower has a large open circle at its top. Twice a year, at the spring and autumn equinoxes, the sun aligns with that circle, focusing a line of sunlight along the equator.

Accommodation

Macapá offers a good selection of accommodation catering to all budgets from hostels to 4-star hotels. While in town, I stayed at the 4-star Hotel Do Forte, which is one of the better hotels in town. Located downtown, this comfortable, clean and modern hotel is a short walk from restaurants, bars and attractions such as the fort and the river. You can book properties using booking.com

Eating Out

Sleepy Macapá offers a surprisingly good number of restaurants with the standout being the Amazonas Peixaria. Overlooking the Amazon river, this is a good place to eat local fish and sample Amazonian cuisine.

Getting There/ Away

Air

A slow boat from Belém to Macapá takes 24 hours, while a flight takes just 55 minutes (but is nowhere near as adventurous). Not surprisingly, many people choose to fly to Macapá, which is served by Alberto Alcolumbre International Airport (located 3 kilometres north-west of downtown).

The following airlines provide regular flights:

LATAM Brasil – flies four times a week to/from Belém & Brasília
Gol Airlines – flies twice a week to/from Belém & Brasília
Azul Brazilian Airlines – flies daily to/from Belém

Boat

From Belém:

Please refer to the Belém section for details on boat travel to Macapá.

The very crowded ‘hammock-class’ on the M/V Sao Francisco de Paula which connects Macapá and Belém.

From Macapá:

The M/V Sao Francisco de Paula, returns to Belém from Macapá (Santana) twice a week, completing the journey in 24 hours.

Two fellow passengers, who loved posing for my camera, on the boat from Belém to Macapá.

Road

The road network in Amapá state is disconnected from the rest of Brazil, so long distance bus services are limited to within Amapá state.

The most useful connection for travellers are the two nightly Amazontur buses which make the 600-kilometre journey north along route BR156 to the border town of Oiapoque.

Buses depart from Macapá bus station at 17:00 and 18:00, arriving at the very quiet (and normally shut) Oiapoque bus station around dawn.

Early morning at Oiapoque bus station which was closed when I arrived at 5 am.

My bus seemed to cover the distance between Macapá and Oiapoque in record time, arriving at 5:00 am, where I was deposited at the very tiny, and closed, Oiapoque bus station.

It was great to have arrived early but the Brazilian immigration office wouldn’t open until 8:00 am, so I had no option but to sleep on a bench at the bus station until the border opened.

The immigration office is located a short walk from the river but requires a taxi ride from the bus station.

Built at a cost of US$50 million, the very grand Oiapoque bridge connects Brazil and French Guiana – the only land connection throughout the Guiana’s.

Crossing from Brazil to French Guiana

Oiapoque, AP, 68980-000, Brazil

The Brazilian border town of Oiapoque is located on the banks of the Oyapok river, slightly upstream from the town of St. Georges in neighbouring French Guiana (click to read my French Guiana Travel Guide).

The border crossing over the Oyapok river is the only one in the Guiana’s which can be made via a bridge, but only if you are travelling in a vehicle.

This is where Brazil meets the European Union!

At the time of my visit in 2015, the bridge hadn’t been opened so I took a boat across the river, a journey of just 10 minutes, in which time I travelled from Brazil across to the European Union! It was strange to disembark in the sleepy town of St. Georges to see the French and EU flags fluttering in the wind.

Breakfast tip:

If you arrive at the border in the morning, it’s best to take breakfast in St. Georges where you’ll find French-style cafés, pâtisseries and boulangeries serving crusty baguettes and fluffy omelettes. So much better than the standard Brazilian breakfast of chocolate cake.

The Oiapoque Bridge

The Oiapoque bridge is a grand construction project which was intended to be a key plank in a highway connecting Cayenne and Macapá. An idea conceived between two presidents without any thought given to the practicalities on the ground. Consequently, the whole project has been lambasted as a US$50 million white elephant!

The bridge was completed in 2011 but, due to politics between Brazil and France, was not opened until March of 2017.

When it was opened, the bridge was only open to vehicular traffic of which there is very little since the French government insists on Brazilian vehicles paying a substantial amount for vehicle insurance.

Most people cross the border on foot, in which case they still use the boats which provide a direct connection between downtown Oiapoque and downtown St. Georges.

The bridge forms the only land connection between Brazil and France – or Brazil and the European Union and is the only bridge-crossing on any of the borders in the Guianas.

An early morning crossing on the Oyapok River from Brazil to French Guiana.

The end of the road for this epic journey…

You might also like…

Travel Guide: Macapá to Manaus via the Guiana’s & Venezuela

A travel guide detailing an overland meander from Macapá to Manaus via French Guiana, Suriname, Guyana and Venezuela

That’s the end of my Amazon River Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Author - Darren McLean

Solomon Islands Travel Guide

Solomon Islands Travel Guide

Introduction

Location

People

Flag

Currency

Philately

Internet Speeds

Sightseeing

Guadalcanal

Honiara

Western Province

Munda

Gizo

Accommodation

Honiara

Munda

Gizo

Eating Out

Honiara

Munda

Gizo

Visa Requirements

Getting There

Air

Airport Transport

Brisbane to Munda Direct

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Intra-Island Ferry

Local Taxi Boats

Public Transport

Taxi

Rental Car

Further Reading

New Caledonia Travel Guide

New Caledonia Travel Guide

Introduction

Location

People

Flag

Currency

Costs

The Great Telco Robbery

Philately

Sightseeing

La Grande Terre

Nouméa

Amédée Island

Le Grand Sud Region

West Coast

The Far North

East Coast

Isle of Pines

Accommodation

Noumea

La Foa

Koné

Koumac

Hienghène

Isle of Pines

Eating Out

Noumea

La Foa

Koné

Koumac

Hienghène

Isle of Pines

Visa Requirements

Immigration

Getting There

Air

Airport Transport

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Public Bus