Welcome to the taste2travel Åland Islands Travel Guide!
Date Visited: May 2018
Introduction
Until recently, I had no idea of the existence of the Åland Islands – an autonomous, demilitarised, Swedish-speaking territory of Finland. After visiting them, I have become a fan but whenever I mention them, people have no idea where in the world I’m talking about.
Unlike other European territories, such as Denmark’s Faroe Islands or the UK’s Jersey, Guernsey or Isle of Man, the Åland Islands remain well off the radar.
Souvenir Åland Islands flags on sale in Mariehamn.
The only people who seem to be aware of Åland’s existence are its neighbours – the Swedes and Finns, who arrive in droves every summer to relax and chill-out on one of the many peaceful islands which can be found throughout the archipelago.
Åland islands Welcome sign.
The territory has its own government, produces its own stamps, issues its own passports (although, unlike other territories, the passport of the Åland Islands does not indicate a different nationality, with all holders being Finnish nationals), has its own internet top-level domain (.AX) and its own vehicle license plate.
The Åland Islands number plate on my rental car.
While Åland is an archipelago of more than 26,000 islands (yes, you’ve read that correctly), only 65 islands are inhabited. The mainland is known locally as Fasta Åland (“Main Island”) and its here you’ll find 90% of the population living on 70% of the total land area and its the focus of this travel guide.
There are an estimated 15,000 Roe deer on the Åland Islands.
If you’re looking to visit a place well off the standard tourist trail, a destination offering a unique culture, centuries of history, wildlife and beautiful nature then the Åland Islands are a place to add to your bucket list.
Location
Åland Islands
Located like a stepping stone between Sweden and Finland, the Åland Islands are an archipelago in the Baltic Sea. Fasta Åland is separated from the coast of Sweden by 38 kilometres (24 miles) of open water to the west. In the east, the Åland archipelago is contiguous with the Finnish Archipelago Sea.
Typical Åland landscape.
This autonomous territory lies at the entrance to the strategically important Gulf of Bothnia, the northern arm of the Baltic sea which separates Sweden from Finland.
The flag of the Åland Islands (centre) surrounded by the flags of its all important, powerful neighbours – Sweden and Finland.
History
Displays at the Åland Museum detail the history of the islands.
The first settlers arrived on the Åland Islands more than 6000 years ago, after the islands had begun to re-emerge from the sea following the end of the last ice age. Both Stone Age and Bronze Agepeople inhabited the archipelago, obtaining food by hunting seals and birds, fishing, and gathering plants.
During the Middle ages, Kastelholm Castle played a key role in the expansion of the Swedish Empire.
Due to its strategic location between Sweden and Finland, Åland was an important harbour and trading centre during the Viking age, and evidence has been found of six fortresses from that time. The islands were Christianised during the 12th century by Swedish missionaries and later became a part of the Swedish Empire, which exercised territorial control over much of the Baltic region during the 17th and early 18th centuries.
The walls of Bomarsund fortress were constructed using giant hexagonal-shaped granite blocks.
In September of 1809, following Russia’s victory over Sweden in the Finnish war, Sweden signed the Treaty of Fredrikshamn surrendering control of the Åland Islands, along with Finland.
The Russians then incorporated Åland into the larger, semi-autonomous Grand Duchy of Finland (the predecessor to modern Finland).
During the treaty negotiations, the Swedes failed to secure a provision from the Russians that the islands would never be fortified, which was important to the Swedes as the islands lie close to the Port of Stockholm.
Russia began fortification in the 1830’s, with the building of the gigantic Bomarsund fortress in Sund, which was then destroyed in 1854 during the Crimean War by Anglo-French troops.
The coast of Sweden is just 38 kilometres from Degersand beach.
Following Russia’s February Revolution in 1917, Finland declared independence from the Russian Empire. At this time, the Åland Islanders worked towards having their territory ceded to Sweden, their historical motherland.
During this dispute, a petition was signed by 95% of Ålanders who favoured secession from Finland and integration with Sweden. For the next four years, Sweden and Finland disputed the issue until in 1921, when Åland was given its status as an autonomous, demilitarised and neutral province within the Republic of Finland by a decision of the League of Nations.
On the 9th of June, 1922, the Ålanders elected a parliament, and this day is now celebrated as “Åland Autonomy Day“.
Although Åland joined the EU along with Finland in 1995, it was granted a number of exemptions, including duty-free tax laws that allowed the essential ferry services between the islands and mainland Finland and Sweden to continue operating profitably.
Today Åland is a Swedish-speaking enclave within Finland with Ålanders being more aware (and more interested) in events in Stockholm than Helsinki.
Flag
The flag of the Åland Islands.
In 1954, Åland received its own flag, which is a Swedish flag over-layed with a red cross.
The flag of the Åland Islands is a Swedish flag over-layed with a red cross.
Why a red cross? While today, blue and white are the Finnish colours, previously red and yellow (from the Finnish coat of arms) were used to symbolise Finland.
The flag of the Åland Islands flying outside parliament in Mariehamn.
Money & Costs
The Euro is the official currency of the Åland Islands.
Money
While the official currency of the Åland Islands is the Euro (€), the Swedish Krona is unofficially accepted by most businesses.
ATM’s (labelled as “OTTO“) are available in Mariehamn and can be found outside the four bank branches on the main shopping street, Torggatan.
Costs
What kind of daily travel budget do you need for the Åland Islands? Despite being tax-free, travelling on the Åland Islands is slightly more expensive than in neighbouring Sweden or Finland. As a rough guide:
Budget: €125
Mid-range: €125-250
Top-end: €250+
Philately
Maritime themes are popular subjects on Åland stamps.
Besides issuing its own passports, the Åland Islands also issues their own stamps which are popular with collectors worldwide. About sixteen sets of stamps are issued each year by Åland Post and can be purchased online via their website or from the main Post Office in Mariehamn. Being a maritime country, common themes include ships, fish and seascapes.
Åland Island stamps can be purchased from the main Post Office in Mariehamn.
Maypoles
Maypole at the Jan Karlsgården Open-Air Museum.
While travelling around Åland, it’s hard to miss the giant Maypoles which loom on the horizon and are a centre-piece of every village.
Diagram of a typical Åland Islands Maypole.
Despite their English name (the poles are known in Swedish as Mid-summer poles), they are decorated and raised as part of the all-important mid-summer festivities which take place each year at the time of the SummerSolstice (around the 19th-25th of June).
A Maypole painted in the colours of the Åland flag being prepared for the upcoming mid-summer festivities.
The poles, which are painted in bright colours and decorated with green leaves and flowers, are an ancient symbol of fertility and greenery and previously served as a tribute to the sun. The poles remain in place all year round until they are lowered and re-decorated in time for the next solstice.
Red, Red Everywhere
Almost all wooden buildings on the Åland Islands have been coated in ‘Falu Red’ paint.
Most houses, structures (and all windmills) on Åland are painted the same red colour, and for good reason. The paint, which is called ‘Falu Red’, contains a pigment which is derived from ‘red soil’, which is a by-product of the copper mining process.
Seeing (Falu) red everywhere on the Åland Islands.
The pigment gets its name from a well-known Swedish mine at Falun, in the province of Dalarna. It was discovered that the minerals in ‘red soil’ help preserve wood from rot, so it was turned into a weather-resistant paint and applied to buildings all over Scandinavia.
There are many windmills on the Åland Islands – all of them painted in ‘Falu Red’.
Sightseeing
There are just a handful of sites to visit on Åland with the quiet capital, Mariehamn, offering a couple of worthwhile museums and the municipality of Sund offering a medieval castle (Kastelholm Castle) and a destroyed Russian fortress (Bomarsund). All municipalities feature at least one imposing, historical church and a Maypole or two.
The landscapes and seascapes are the real attraction on the islands and it’s these that draw the Swedish and Finnish tourists each year.
Mariehamn
St. George church in Mariehamn.
Named after the Empress of Russia, Mariehamn is the centre of Åland and home to nearly half of the territories population (30,000). Feeling more like a sleepy village than a capital, Mariehamn is home to the Åland Parliament, which lies on the one small shopping street (Torggatan), where you’ll also find the banks, post office, restaurants, café’s and the Åland Museum & Åland Art Museum.
A display at the Åland museum in Mariehamn.
Located across the road from Parliament, the Åland Museum traces the history of the islands from prehistoric times up until the present day while the Art Museum houses a permanent collection of local art as well as interesting temporary exhibitions.
A photographic collage of Ålanders at the Åland art museum in Mariehamn.
Also in town, near to the ferry docks at the West harbour (Västerhamn), is the impressive Åland Maritime Museum, which offers a comprehensive history of the islands’ maritime heritage. Åland has a very deep-rooted tradition of seafaring, and this beautifully presented museum is the perfect place to get a sense of its maritime history.
A display at the Åland Maritime museum in Mariehamn.
Usually docked behind the museum is the four-mast barque Pommern, which was built in Glasgow in 1903 and was used to carry grain from Australia (Spencer Gulf) to harbours in England or Ireland until the start of World War II. At the time of my visit the Pommern had been moved slightly upriver awaiting completion of a new museum dock which was under construction.
Outside Mariehamn
From Mariehamn, an excellent network of roads crosses the mainland connecting the capital to the following municipalities:
Jomala
Finström
Lemland
Saltvik
Hammarland
Sund
Eckerö
Geta
Vårdö
Lumparland
Sund
Of these municipalities, the highlight for tourists is Sund which is home to the two main sights on Åland; – Kastelholm Castle and Bomarsund Fortress.
Kastelholm Castle
During the Middle ages, Kastelholm Castle played a key role in the expansion of the Swedish Empire.
The main tourist attraction outside of Mariehamn, Kastelholm Castle was constructed in the 14th century, originally on a small island surrounded by moats filled with water and planted with several rows of poles.
During the Middle Ages, the castle played a key role in consolidating Swedish authority throughout the Baltic region. The castle was gutted and ruined in 1745. Recently the castle has been renovated and is now an important part of the Åland tourist circuit in Åland.
A farm building and windmill at the Jan Karlsgården Outdoor Museum.
Next-door to the castle is the Jan Karlsgården Outdoor Museum which includes many 19th century Åland farm houses which have been relocated here from different parts of the archipelago.
The museum contains twenty different types of buildings, providing the visitor with a comprehensive view of the life and building traditions that existed on Åland at the time.
Bomarsund Fortress
Only partial pieces of the impressive walls which once surrounded Bomarsund fortress remain in place today.
After Sweden lost the Finnish War (1808–09) to Russia, the Russians took control of the Åland Islands and in 1830 started construction on the immense Bomarsund fortress.
The fortress was built in accordance with the orders of Emperor Nicholas I and was constructed by a small army of indentured labourers from various cultural backgrounds across the Russian empire (their separate cemeteries are located nearby).
A town, Gamla Skarpans, was built and another settlement, Nya Skarpans, was established inside the fortress. However, the fortress, designed for 5000 men and 500 cannons, was never finished because in 1854 during the Crimean War English and French troops invaded and blew it up.
Today, all that remains are fragments of the immense walls – all of which were constructed using uniquely carved hexagonal-shaped granite blocks.
The Sund church dates from medieval times.
Also in Sund is the impressive, medieval era (14th century), Sund church which is dedicated to John the Baptist and is the largest church on the Åland Islands.
Hammarland
Originally built in the 13th century, Hammarland church, dedicated to Saint Catherine of Alexandria.
In the municipality of Hammarland, you’ll find the impressive stone, medieval-era Hammarland church which is dedicated to Saint Catherine of Alexandria. Home to the largest cemetery on the Åland Islands, the church was originally built in the 13th century but later destroyed by fire, it was then totally reconstructed in the 1830’s.
Saltvik
The factory shop at the Taffel Potato Chip factory.
While driving through the municipality of Saltvik, you’ll pass the Taffel Potato Chip factory, which includes a shop where you can buy discounted snacks. A perfect stop for hungry travelers!
Finström
The Stallhagen Brewery offers tours, beer tastings and superb food.
In the municipality of Finström, you’ll find Godby – the 2nd largest town (pop: 1,300) in Åland. Located a short drive west of Godby on route 4 is the Stallhagen Brewery(see the ‘Eating out‘ section below for more detail), where you can organise a tour of the brewery. The food and beer here is not to be missed!
Vårdö
The medieval-era Vårdö church.
The island of Vårdö is reached by a short cable-ferry from neighbouring Sund. This is the end of the main road network with travel to islands further east requiring a longer ferry journey.
Besides lots of rural scenes and beautiful seascapes, Vårdö church is a highlight of a visit to this sleepy island. The church is dedicated to the apostle Matthias and was built from stone in the 15th century.
My rental car on a Cable ferry to Vårdö island.
Eckerö
Eckerö church is dedicated to St. Lawrence.
The most western municipality, the highlights of Eckerö are its impressive church (first built in 1280 and dedicated to St. Lawrence) and Degersand, the most beautiful sand beach on the Åland Islands where you have accommodation options.
Located on the south coast of Eckerö, Degersand is the most beautiful sand beach on the Åland Islands.
Lumparland
The steeple of Lumparland church, the oldest surviving wooden church in the Åland islands.
Lumparland is the smallest municipality on mainland Åland, supporting a population of 396. The Church of Lumparland, dedicated to St. Andrew, is the oldest surviving wooden church in Åland, dating back to the 1720’s.
The red circle indicates the body of water known as the Lumparn, a 9 km wide meteor impact crater. Source: somerikko.net
Lumparland borders the eastern edge of a body of water known as the Lumparn, a billion-year-old, 9 km wide meteorimpact crater. I’m glad I wasn’t around to witness that!
Accommodation
My comfortable room at the Hotel Arkipelag in Mariehamn.
There are many accommodation options on the Åland Islands from deluxe hotels to camping grounds and everything else in between, all of which can be found on the official VisitÅland.com website.
I stayed on the waterfront in Mariehamn at the Hotel Arkipelag which was wonderful. The hotel offers spacious, stylish rooms with harbour views, an excellent breakfast buffet (which always featured a gourmet selection of fine Åland produce), a bar and casino and everything else you would expect from a four star hotel.
The Australian flag flew outside the Hotel Arkipelag for the duration of my stay.
One thing I didn’t expect was to walk outside the hotel on my first morning and see the Australian flag fluttering in the cool, crisp breeze. The only other flags flying were those of the neighbouring Scandinavian countries and the Åland Islands. I asked the receptionist why they were flying the Australian flag and she confirmed my suspicion that it was to honour my visit. So – if you wish to stay somewhere that’ll fly your flag and leave you feeling like a VIP, then I recommend the Hotel Arkipelag.
Eating Out
The Åland Islands are one of the few places in Europe where you’ll find none of the regular international fast food restaurants. The only nod to fast food is one restaurant from the Finnish burger chain, Hesburger, who offer the ‘Double Burger’, which looks exactly like a Big Mac.
Mariehamn
Many tempting offerings to be found at Bagarstugan Café in Mariehamn.
Mariehamn is a wonderfully compact, pedestrian friendly capital and most restaurants, café’s and bars are located a short walk from each other. My go-to place while in town (and the best café I found anywhere in Åland) is the very cosy and inviting Bagarstugan Café & Vin.
Everything here is divine, from the coffee, cakes, food, service, décor and ambiance and I believe the world would be a much better place if every town had a Bagarstugan café!
Exterior of Bagarstugan café in Mariehamn.
Bagarstugan is strictly a daytime operation, however there are plenty of nocturnal dining options a few steps away. One of my favourites was the lively upstairs restaurant at Indigo Restaurant & Bar. Both the food and drinks selection were superb, with the talented bar staff able to create any cocktail one desires (the Pisco Sours were the best this side of Peru).
Located between Indigo and Bagarstugan is Dino’s Bar & Grill, which is an American-style sports bar featuring live music and a menu loaded with American classics (hamburgers, ribs etc).
Outside Mariehamn
Beer tasting at the Stallhagen Brewery.
Almost all dining/ bar options are located in Mariehamn but one worth journeying to (15 kilometres north of the capital) is the fantastic Stallhagen Brewerywhich is located a short drive west of Godby on route 4.
Stallhagen was the first micro-brewery on Åland and today produces a dozen different types of craft beers from pale ale’s to darker stouts to berry-infused (blueberry ale or raspberry stout) concoctions – all of which are very quaffable.
One of their more popular beers is Honungsöl, which includes local honey. The manager told me as a result of the popularity of this beer, Åland farmers are now increasing honey production to meet the demand from the brewery.
Home-made sausages are perfectly complimented with a selection of craft beers at Stallhagen Brewery.
The brewery restaurant produces an amazing selection of dishes which are nicely paired with different beers by the friendly, enthusiastic staff. I returned more than once for their lunch special which was home-made sausages served with mashed potatoes and sauerkraut.
This was paired with a small selection of their beers which were served in tasting glasses. By the end of my stay I had sampled their full range!
An Åland pancake paired with two different stouts at the Stallhagen brewery.
The brewery is a good place to try the famous Åland pancake which is semolina based and pairs very well with a full-bodied stout.
Visa Requirements
Being a territory of Finland, the visa policy of the Schengen area applies to the Åland Islands.
Immigration Formalities
All sea and air connections are with neighbouring Schengen members (Finland, Sweden or Estonia), hence there are no immigration checks upon arrival and no passport stamps issued.
Getting There
Air & sea routes to the Åland Islands. Source: www.Aland.com
Air
Flights to the Åland Islands arrive at the sleepy Mariehamn airport, which is located 3 kilometres (2 miles) north-west of the capital in the municipality of Jomala.
On the evening I arrived from Stockholm (on the last flight of the day), there were no taxis at the airport so I called for one using the free public phone. In the meantime, everyone else had left the terminal which left me and the security guard, who announced he was going home and left me alone inside the terminal to wait for my taxi. Crime is unheard of on the islands and the Ålanders are very laid-back and relaxed.
The following airlines provide connections with the outside world:
There are no airport bus services while a taxi from Mariehamns Taxi will cost between €15-20 to downtown.
Ferry
Most visitors to the islands arrive by sea from either Sweden, Finland or Estonia. Currently four ferry companies provide regular international services to the islands:
Buses connect Mariehamn to most parts of the ‘mainland’ and are operated by Williams Buss and Viking Lines Buss. The following routes allow visitors to reach most parts of the archipelago:
Route 1 – Is operated by Williams Buss and connects Mariehamn to Hammarland then Ekerö.
Route 2 – Is operated by Viking Lines Buss and connects Mariehamn to Godby then Geta.
Route 3 – Is operated by Viking Lines Buss and connects Mariehamn to Godby then Saltvik.
Route 4 – Is operated by Viking Lines Buss and connects Mariehamn to Godby then Sund then Vårdö.
Route 5 – Is operated by Williams Buss and connects Mariehamn to Lemland then Lumparland.
Route 6 – This circuitous route is operated by Williams Buss, connecting Mariehamn to Godby, Gölby, Emkarby, Pålsböle then back to Godby then Mariehamn.
A map showing domestic ferry routes. Source: Ålandstrafiken
There are four domestic ferry routes which are operated by Ålandstrafiken; the Northern line (Norra linjen), the Southern line (Södra linjen), the Cross line (Tvärgående linjen) and the Föglö line (Föglölinjen). You can view route information, timetablesand current fares on their website.
The Captain on the bridge of a Cable ferry on Vårdö Island.
In addition to these, a number of ‘cable ferries‘ (which run on a fixed cable) provide a connection between some of the islands.
The Cable ferries run on a submerged cable, which is strung between islands.
The Cable ferries are free of charge and run on demand (i.e. it only takes one vehicle to initiate a crossing) with one captain telling me that these state-run ferries never stop running and are hugely expensive (all that fuel!).
Crossing to Vårdö island on a cable ferry.
Taxi
A taxi in Mariehamn, nice to ride but expensive.
Mariehamns Taxi can be contacted locally on 018-10066 or from abroad on +358 18 26 000. With a flag fall of €6 and a per kilometre charge of €3, taxis are not cheap.
Rental Car
My rental car on the Åland Islands.
The best way to maximise your time on the islands is to rent a car. Many of the remote back-roads are not served by public transport and since traffic is light and the roads are (generally) in excellent condition, you can cover most of the archipelago in a few days.
Rundbergs (Tel: +358 (0) 18 525 505) are the only rental agent on the Åland Islands and are also the local representative for Europcar & Hertz. Their office is hidden away inside the ST1 service station, which is located on the waterfront in Mariehamn. You do not need to visit them as they will deliver your car to you.
Being a monoploy operator, rates are never going to be favourable and a compact car will set you back €82 per day (for multiple days hire) or €427 per week. If you wish to hire a car for just the day, they offer a special rate of €68.
Welcome to the taste2travel Montserrat Travel Guide!
Date Visited: June 2018
Introduction
Feel like visiting a modern-day Caribbean Pompeii? The volcanic island of Montserrat offers a very different travel experience from the usual sun, sand and beaches.
The former Government House in Plymouth lies abandoned, destroyed by pyroclastic flows.
Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, tiny Montserrat is slowly dusting itself off after recent volcanic eruptions decimated the southern part of the island (including the capital Plymouth), covering large areas in ash, mud and other volcanic debris.
Trolleys, covered in volcano ash, remain where they were left in the former Angelo’s supermarket in Plymouth.
While the Soufrière Hills Volcano is far from dormant (there has been no considerable activity since 2012) Montserrat is open for tourism and visitors are once again returning to the island that, due to its rich Irish heritage, bills itself as the ‘Emerald Isle of the Caribbean‘.
This mud and ash filled bathroom at the former Montserrat Springs hotel is definitely out-of-order.
Montserrat is one of 14 British Overseas Territories, governed by a locally elected Premier and Parliament and is the only place outside of Ireland where St. Patrick’s Day is a public holiday (and the biggest festival of the year).
Inundated by pyroclastic flows, only the roof of this building remains visible.
Whilst the island has a few nice (black sand) beaches, the main draw today is ‘volcano tourism‘, with a highlight of any visit being a tour of the fascinating, abandoned capital of Plymouth, which lies entombed under many metres of volcanic debris, inside a restricted exclusion zone.
The former ‘Economy Bakery’ in Plymouth.
Plymouth remains the capital of Montserrat, making it the only ghost town that serves as the capital of a political territory.
Files and paperwork remain where they were left in an abandoned office in Plymouth.
Due to the ongoing volcanic threat, the southern two-thirds of the island lie inside a restricted exclusion zone, leaving residents and tourists with the lush, green, northern third of the island to enjoy.
An abandoned office in Plymouth.
The population of the island has dropped from 12,000 at the time of the eruption to 4,900 today, with many former residents taking up UK resettlement packages.
The concrete supports on the roof of the former government administration building in Plymouth were built to withstand a category 5 hurricane but the building was no match against a volcanic eruption.
For a period of ten years from 1979 – 1989, the island was a magnet for many famous musicians who came to record at the legendary AIR Studios Montserrat, which was created by Sir George Martin – the renown English record producer who signed The Beatles and produced every album they made until they disbanded (see the ‘Musical Legacy‘ section below for more).
A photo of Paul and Linda McCartney on Montserrat.
Location
Plymouth, Montserrat
Located in the Caribbean Sea, Montserrat is part of the Leeward islands. Its nearest neighbours are Guadeloupe(86 km) to the south-east, Antigua(55 km) to the north-east and Nevis(62 km) to the north-west.
Flying over the north-west coast of Montserrat.
History
Artwork at the Hilltop Coffee House showing a typical Montserrat landscape.
Like neighbouring islands, the original inhabitants of Montserrat were native Arawak and Carib Indians who migrated up through the Antilles chain from South America. Archaeological digs in the Centre Hills area of the island have found evidence of human habitation extending back to 4000 BC.
As with every other island in the Caribbean, the first European to arrive was Christopher Columbus during his second voyageto the New World in 1493. Columbus named the island after the Virgin Mary and the Monastery of Montserrat, which is located in the hills outside of Barcelona, Spain.
Spain never attempted to take control of the island and it wasn’t until 1632 that the first Irish settlers arrived from neighbouring St. Kitts, some 80 km (50 miles) to the North. The Catholic settlers came to the island to escape Protestant intolerance and soon more Irish from Virginia joined the settlers. By 1648 there were ‘1,000 white families’ on the island, the vast majority of whom had a connection to Ireland.
The Irish established plantations and, being historical allies of France (and not being friendly towards the English), invited France to claim the island in 1666. The French took control but never sent any troops to protect the island, leaving it exposed to an English invasion, which took place later that same year.
Once the British gained control of the island, they imported African slaves to work on the various sugar plantations. Once slavery was abolished in 1833, a Quaker, Joseph Sturge, purchased a sugar estate on the island as part of his campaign to support freed slaves.
Souvenirs on sale at one of the few gift shops on the island.
More family members eventually joined him on the island and, in 1869, they established the Montserrat Company Limited, planting lime trees, which led to the commercial production of lime juice. They also established a school, and sold parcels of land to the inhabitants of the island.
From 1871 to 1958, Montserrat was administered as part of the federal crown colony of the British Leeward Islands. In 1958 it joined the short-lived West Indies Federation and, after the federation was dissolved in 1962, it became a Crown Colony.
Flag
The flag of Montserrat.
Being a British territory, the flag of Montserrat features the British Blue Ensign with the Montserrat coat of arms. The arms feature Erin, the female personification of Ireland, and the golden harp, another symbol of Ireland, all of which reflects the colony’s Irish ancestry.
Montserrat souvenir flags on sale at the Hilltop Coffee Shop.
While the Montserrat flag can be seen flying over most parts of the island, the Union Jack can be seen flying outside the Governors Office in Brades (the new capital).
The Union Jack flying outside the Governors Office in Brades.
Natural Disasters
Hurricane Hugo
Two recent natural disasters have had a devastating impact on the island which was once a tourist playground. The first was in 1989, when Hurricane Hugo (a category five storm) slammed into Montserrat, damaging 90% of all structures on the island, including AIR Studios Montserrat, which was then abandoned. Hugo left 11,000 out of 12,000 people homeless and set back the tourist industry considerably.
Soufrière Hills Volcano
The Soufrière Hills Volcano is very shy and normally shrouded in cloud and, due to ongoing activity, access anywhere near it is strictly prohibited.
The second (more cataclysmic) natural disaster commenced in 1995 when, after a long period of dormancy, the Soufrière Hills Volcano became active.
The nearby capital, Plymouth, was evacuated in 1995 and was abandoned permanently in 1997 after it was burnt and mostly buried by a series of pyroclasticflows (a fast-moving current of hot gas and volcanic matter that moves away from a volcano reaching speeds of up to 700 km/h (430 mph) and temperatures of about 1,000 °C) and lahars (volcanic mud flows).
Exclusion Zones
This map of Montserrat outside the airport terminal shows the Exclusion Zone.
While driving around the island, you need to be aware of the different Exclusion Zones. There are five defined zones, being A, B, C, F and V.
Roadside signs advise when you are entering a particular exclusion zone.
Zones A & B: Open 24 hours and inhabited.
Zone C & F: Open only during daylight hours and not inhabited.
The all important Zone V advisory sign is easily missed as it’s laying in grass on the side of the road.
Zone V: The main exclusion zone, which includes the city of Plymouth. Strictly forbidden to enter (without an authorised guide) and if you are caught inside the zone without the correct permit you are subject to prosecution. Unfortunately the roadside sign which announces the demarcation line for Zone V is currently laying in long grass on the side of the road and is easily missed.
Important signage inside the exclusion zone on Montserrat!
Montserrat Volcano Observatory
The Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO).
Perched high on the side of a hill in the village of Flemmings, and with a clear view of the Soufrière Hills Volcano, is the Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO). Staff at the observatory use a variety of instruments (and a sleek helicopter) to continuously monitor volcanic activity.
Scientists at the Montserrat Volcano Observatory monitor the volcano using different means including a helicopter.
Musical Legacy
‘The Police’ recorded the video for ‘Every Little Thing She Does is Magic’ on Montserrat.
Tiny Montserrat has had a huge impact on the world of music and it’s all thanks to the vision of one man, renown English record producer, Sir George Martin. Known as “the 5th Beetle‘, Sir George decided quiet Montserrat would be an ideal place to create a 2nd ‘away-from-it-all’ recording studio where artists could come and focus solely on their music.
Opened in 1979, AIR (Associated Independent Recording) Studios Montserrat offered all of the technical facilities of its London predecessor, but with the advantages of an exotic location and over the next 10 years attracted a string of world-famous musicians such as:
Boy George
Dire Straits (who recorded ‘Brothers in Arms‘ at the studio)
Jimmy Buffet (who recorded the album ‘Volcano‘ while looking at the then-dormant Soufrière Hills Volcano from the studio)
Little River Band
Lou Reed
Luther Vandross
Michael Jackson
Paul McCartney (who recorded the hit single ‘Ebony and Ivory‘ with Stevie Wonder at the studio)
Sheena Easton
Stevie Wonder
The Police (who recorded ‘Ghost in the Machine‘ and ‘Synchronicity‘ at the studio)
The Rolling Stones
Ultravox
The abandoned AIR Recording Studios on Montserrat.
At least 67 albums were recorded at the studio until, like everything else on the island, it was severely damaged in 1989 by Hurricane Hugo and was abandoned. Today, this icon from the pop era is quietly rotting away in the tropical heat, surrounded by fencing and signs warning people not to enter.
A display, created by David Lea of the Hilltop Coffee House, illustrates the musical legacy from the days of the Air Recording studios.
You can learn more about the musical legacy of Montserrat from the informative displays which have been arranged by David Lea at the Hilltop Coffee House.
A display, created by David Lea of the Hilltop Coffee shop, shows some of the albums which were recorded at the Air Recording studios.
Arrow
While almost all musicians who recorded on Montserrat were from more distant lands, one artist – Alphonsus Cassell (aka Arrow), was a homegrown talent who found worldwide fame with his famous Soca music hit ‘Hot, Hot, Hot’.
Currency
My collection of Eastern Caribbean Dollars.
The currency of Montserrat is the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$), which is issued by the Eastern Caribbean Central Bank, whose headquarters are on neighbouring St. Kitts. Since 1976, the exchange rate has been pegged to the US$ at a rate of US$1 = EC$2.70.
Besides Montserrat, the EC$ is also the currency of:
Anguilla
Antigua & Barbuda
Grenada
St. Kitts & Nevis
Dominica
St. Lucia
St. Vincent and the Grenadines
The only ATMs available on the island are in Brades at the Royal Bank of Canada (all cards accepted) and Bank of Montserrat (only Visa accepted). Many places on the island do not accept credit cards.
The Great Montserrat Bank Robbery
A buried, blue concrete roof awning, is all that is now visible of the former Barclay’s Bank branch in Plymouth – scene of the great bank robbery.
In 1995, the reawakening of the Soufrière Hills Volcano sent pyroclastic flows and ash falls across a wide area of southern Montserrat including the capital, Plymouth. As the capital was quickly abandoned, a sum of nearly a million Eastern Caribbean dollars, worth about USD$300,000, was left laying in a bank vault at the Plymouth branch of Barclay’s Bank.
At some stage following the evacuation, locals – who had knowledge of the now buried treasure – returned to the bank premises, tunnelled through the volcanic rubble, then through the 20-inch reinforced concrete walls of the safe and stole the cash.
It took some time for the robbery to come to light and those implicated included a former bank employee and two local police officers. The Eastern Caribbean Central Bank, who belatedly reacted by cancelling a large range of Montserrat-registered bank notes (thereby leaving many people holding worthless pieces of currency) was criticised for its handling of the matter.
Philately
Stamps from Montserrat are popular with collectors around the world.
Like other small territories around the world, stamps issued by the Montserrat Post Office are popular with Philatelists word-wide. Currently the GPO (General Post Office) in Brades is operating out of temporary premises which are very claustrophobic and not worth visiting – unless you wish to feel like a sardine in a can.
The colourful fauna and flora of Montserrat are favourite subjects for stamp issues.
However, located on a breezy hill south of Brades (near Angelo’s supermarket), you’ll find the much more spacious and agreeable Montserrat Philatelic Bureau where the friendly staff (email: monphil@candw.ms) will happily assist you with your Philatelic needs. They previously operated a website (www.montserratstampbureau.com) but this is no longer available. The bureau is another branch of the post office and as such you can take care of regular postal business here without fighting the masses at the poky GPO.
The special commemorative booklet which was produced for the 30th Anniversary of the Philatelic Bureau.
To commemorate its 30th anniversary in 2006, the bureau produced a booklet which contains many pages of coloured photos of different stamp issues. This booklet is available from the bureau free of charge.
Sightseeing
View of the east coast of Montserrat from my FlyMontserrat flight.
Plymouth
The highlight of my visit to Montserrat was my tour inside the exclusion zone, which was conducted by the knowledgeable and informative Sun Lea, the owner of Montserrat Island Tours.
Touring the ruins of Plymouth with my guide, Sun, who always had radio contact with the MVO and the police.
The ruins of the capital can only be visited on a guided tour, conducted by a specially trained guide and requires the issue of a police permit.
A view of the buried capital. The white structure in the foreground is the rooftop terrace of a buried building.
Tours can remain in the city for one hour and during that time the guide is required to maintain constant radio contact with monitoring staff at the nearby Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO).
A photo of Plymouth in its heyday as the capital of Montserrat, before it was devastated by a pyroclastic flow.
Another requirement was that, even while walking about, the motor of our vehicle was always to be left running in case the MVO advised that we need to leave the area ASAP.
Trolleys remain where they were left at Angelo’s supermarket in Plymouth.
The half-day tour commenced at the Hilltop Coffee Shop (owned by Sun’s parents – David and Clover Lea), which was very convenient as I needed my morning coffee before going into the danger zone.
The former entrance to Angelo’s supermarket. A new branch has now opened in Brades.
The first stop was the Montserrat Volcano Observatory(MVO) where we had a view of the cloud-covered Soufrière Hills volcano and watched a documentary from the days following the initial eruption – most of the footage for which was filmed by David Lea.
Empty baby food bottles litter the ash-covered floor of Angelo’s supermarket.
From the observatory, we drove over the Pelham river into an eerie ash-covered landscape full of abandoned buildings. As we entered into Zone V, the exclusion zone, Sun contacted the local police patrol via radio to announce he was entering the zone “with four souls on-board“.
The ground floor of most buildings in Plymouth now lie below ground.
Plymouth was constructed on historical lava deposits in the shadow of the volcano and was evacuated when the volcano resumed erupting in 1995 and was abandoned permanently in 1997 after it was burnt and mostly buried by a series of pyroclastic flowsand lahars.
Pyroclastic flows and lahars inundated Plymouth with ash, mud and huge rocks.
After touring Plymouth we drove to a nearby former residential neighbourhood where we visited the ruined Montserrat Springs hotel – once one of the island’s finest.
The abandoned office at the Montserrat Springs hotel.
Like a cake dusted with icing sugar, the entire property is coated in volcanic ash and is entered through the reception where paperwork and a calculator still remain on the desk.
Valisha waiting a long time to check in at the Montserrat Springs hotel.
A calculator and ledger book remain on the reception desk of the abandoned Montserrat Springs Hotel.
Once past reception we visited the former pool area which has now been filled with volcanic mud as have all the rooms on the ground floor.
A ‘before and after’ photo of the pool area at the Montserrat Springs hotel.
In all the rooms, bedside lights remain attached to the walls (but now just inches off the new ground level), shower curtains and other bathroom fittings remain in place as do buried dressing tables and wardrobes. Walking the corridors of the old hotel was indeed eerie.
An old bedhead and bedside lights, which are now just above the new ground level at the Montserrat Springs hotel.
Buried furniture, entombed in the former rooms of the Montserrat Springs hotel.
All the ground floor rooms at the former Montserrat Springs Hotel have been inundated with volcanic ash and mud.
Garibaldi Hill
A view of Plymouth from Garibaldi Hill shows the path cut through the capital by the pyroclastic flows and lahars.
After crossing the Belham river, a steep, narrow, unmarked road leads to the top of Garibaldi Hill from where you have sweeping views of the southern part of the island, including the buried capital of Plymouth and the Soufrière Hills volcano, which looms over everything on this part of the island.
Montserrat National Trust
Artwork at the Montserrat National Trust.
The Montserrat National Trust is tasked with preserving and conserving the cultural, historical and archaeological heritage of the Island. Located on the main road in Olveston, the trust headquarters features a modest botanical garden, the Oriole gift shop (named after the national bird), a cafe (closed at the time of my visit) and historical and cultural displays.
A display at the Montserrat National Trust shows a glass bowl, bent out of shape by the heat of the pyroclastic flow which devastated Plymouth.
Runaway Ghaut
According to local legend, taking a sip of water from ‘Runaway Ghaut’ will ensure you return to Montserrat.
Located on the side of the main road south of Woodlands, is this natural gorge which is fed by a fresh water spring. Local legend has it that if you drink from here you will return to Montserrat. Interestingly the locals mispronounce the name as ‘runaway gut‘.
Woodlands Bay
Who needs a white-sand beach? Montserrat offers many beautiful volcanic-sand beaches such as Woodlands Bay.
This beautiful, black-sand beach, lies at the bottom of a steep, windy road and is often deserted. If you wish to snorkel there are a couple of reefs off the northern end of the beach.
Little Bay
Little Bay offers ideal swimming on a beautiful black-sand beach and great sunset views.
Located at the top of the west coast next to the ferry dock, Little Bay offers a nice black-sand beach, beautiful sunsets and a couple of restaurants/ bars (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more).
This has been designated as the new capital of Montserrat and is currently a work-in-progress. The National Museum of Montserrat is located here but has limited opening hours so best to call ahead.
Silver Hills
The panoramic view south from Silver Hills with the new settlement of ‘Lookout’ in the foreground and the remnants of a pyroclastic flow in the background.
Located at the top of the island and accessed via a very steep, one lane (but two-way) road behind the airport, Silver Hills affords panoramic views over the northern part of the island, including the new airport, the new settlement of Lookout, the east and west coasts and the Centre Hills and beyond.
Jack Boy Hill
A view into the exclusion zone from the Jack Boy Hill lookout. The old airport, W. H. Bramble, lies buried in the rubble below.
At the end of the road on the east coast is this lookout which provides panoramic views into the exclusion zone. The former airport, W. H. Bramble, lies buried under the huge pyroclasticflow directly below the hill.
Accommodation
A sweeping view of the west coast of Montserrat from the Gingerbread Hill Guest House.
There are just two hotels on Montserrat but many more guesthouses, B&B’s and apartments, all of which are listed on the Accommodation page of Visit Montserrat.
Gingerbread Hill
While on the island, I stayed at the wonderful Gingerbread Hill, which is owned by Clover and David Lea who are the creative force behind the nearby Hilltop Coffee Shop.
The Gingerbread Hill Guest House on Montserrat.
Perched on top of an exposed, breezy hill (no air-con needed!), the guest house offers four spacious apartments with the top-floor, Heavenly Suite, offering unbeatable views of the island and beyond.
By day you have stunning, uninterrupted, panoramic views of the mountains, rain forest and the sea (including the distant island of Nevis – i.e. St. Kitts & Nevis) and at night, incredible star-gazing from the private rooftop terrace (zero light pollution) and views of the lights of Nevis.
A friendly Green Anole lizard at Gingerbread Hill.
Clover and David can arrange car rental, airport transfers and tours of Plymouth and the Exclusion Zone, which are conducted by their son – Sun – through his company – Montserrat Island Tours (highly recommended).
The views from the ‘Heavenly Suite’ at the Gingerbread Guest house truly are heavenly. Source: Gingerbread Hill Guest House.
Eating Out
Bee Bee’s Bakery in Brades.
For an island of 4,900 souls, Montserrat offers a surprisingly good selection of dining options, serving everything from unpretentious local cuisine to more refined fine dining. A full list of dining options is available on the Visit Montserratwebsite while here I’ve listed some of my personal favourites (ordered from north to south).
Little Bay is home to Time Out Bar & Restaurant which is a great place to have a drink while watching the sunset.
Time Out Bar & Restaurant
At the northern end of the island, Little Bay is an ideal place to watch the sunset and it’s here you’ll find the beach-side Time Out Bar & Restaurant. Offering American favourites (burgers, barbecued ribs, wings etc) – I recommend their fresh Fish ‘n’ Chips. Their bar is one of the few places on the island where you can get a drink in the evening.
The People’s Place
Located south of Brades on Fogarty Hill, you’ll find a local culinary institution, which is housed inside a very simple turquiose-blue shack – The People’s Place. The host (John) prepares great tasting, simple Caribbean fare which is always served with a big smile (his roti are especially good). If you’re in town on Friday, this is the place to try Goat Water – a stew featuring goat meat which is the national dish.
Hilltop Coffee House
The Hilltop Coffee House at Fogarty Hill.
Directly next door to The People’s Place is the Hilltop Coffee House which is a must for anyone visiting the island. The cafe is a not-for-profit which was founded (and is run by) the energetic David Lea and his wife Clover (who also run the nearby Gingerbread Hill Guesthouse). Clover bakes the best brownies on the island and David brews a mean cup of coffee.
A wall display at the Hilltop Coffee House.
David has turned the cafe into a museum which covers all aspects of life on Montserrat from its musical heritage to the eruption of the Soufrière Hills Volcano (which David filmed and is available for purchase on DVD) to local art and much more.
David is known as Mr Volcano and filmed the entire eruption. You can purchase his DVD – The Price of Paradise – at the coffee-house.
Signs salvaged from Plymouth businesses are displayed at the Hilltop Coffee House.
An American native, David is very informative and enthusiastic about the island, offering visitors a free tour and explanation of his extensive collection of memorabilia.
If there’s one place on the island from which you can gain an understanding of everything Montserrat, it’s the Hilltop Coffee House.
Olveston House
Olveston House, the former winter residence of Sir George Martin.
If you’re looking for a fine dining experience, you’ll find it at Olveston House, the former winter residence of Sir George Martin, who purchased the estate in the early 1980’s. For many years, Olveston House hosted famous artists such as Sting, Eric Clapton, Elton John and Paul McCartney who came to Montserrat to record at AIR Studios.
It’s worth excusing yourself to use the toilet while dining here just to view the old black and white photos of Paul and Linda McCartney and John Lennon which line the hallway. Offering Caribbean-infused international cuisine, the restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and ‘high tea’ with meals served on the breezy balcony, overlooking the garden.
LIAT Airline
From Olveston House to the Caribbean
If you’re spending anytime travelling around the Eastern Caribbean, there’s a good chance you’ll end up on a flight operated by the region’s dominate carrier – LIAT (Leeward Islands Air Transport). LIAT was founded in the 1950’s by Sir Frank Delisle from neighbouring St. Kitts, who lived at Olveston House and was the Managing Director of the Montserrat Company.
In 1953, the first flight touched down on the airstrip at Olveston House and LIAT airlines was born. Today LIAT serves 17 destinations throughout the region, including Guyanain South America.
The Attic
The Attic cafe serves up tasty local food and has the best homemade ginger beer on the island.
Housed in a cute wooden cottage, around the corner from Olveston House, is another local favourite – The Attic. Open for breakfast and lunch only, this cafe serves local fare (I especially recommend the grilled fish with rice and salad) and fresh juices, all of which are made in-house. The homemade ginger beer is especially good – so good I had to order a 2nd glass!
Visa Requirements
The clover leaf is an appropriate passport stamp for the Emerald Isle.
It’s appropriate that the passport stamp to the Emerald Isle is a green clover leaf.
Getting There
Air
Boarding the FlyMontserrat flight at Antigua airport.
All flights into Montserrat arrive at the small John A. Osborne Airport which is located in the village of Gerald’s. Constructed at a cost of approximately US$18.5 million, the airport was opened in July of 2005 by Princess Anne and was built as a replacement for the former airport – W. H. Bramble– which was completely destroyed in 1997 as a result of the eruption of the Soufrière Hills volcano.
Between 1997 and 2005, Montserrat had only been accessible by helicopter, boat and seaplane.
The terminal at John A. Osborne Airport on Montserrat.
The airport has the distinction of being the only one in the Caribbean with a public road tunnel under its runway and is the base for FlyMontserratAirways which flies three times a day between Montserrat and neighbouring Antigua(the only destination for flights to/from the island), with the 57 km hop taking 20 minutes in nine seater Britten-Norman Islander aircraft.
On final approach to John A Osborne airport, Montserrat.
The following airlines provide services to Montserrat:
Antigua Airport is the only gateway for flights to/ from Montserrat and if you’re staying on Antigua more than 24 hours, you will be required to pay an arrival tax of US$37.50 and also a departure tax of US$37.50 (a total of US$75 in taxes!).
Most airlines automatically include these horrendous taxes in their tickets, however FlyMontserrat annoyingly does not!
When you depart for Montserrat from Antigua, you’ll be required to pay the Antiguadeparture tax (cash or credit card) at the time of check-in.
When departing Montserrat, you’ll be required to pay the Antiguaarrival tax (cash or credit card) at the time of check-in.
You’re also required to pay the Montserrat departure tax (cash only) which is EC$45 per person. It would be so much easier if FlyMontserrat followed the example of all other airlines and included these taxes in its tickets.
Sea
The Antigua-Montserrat ferry, Jaden Sun, docked at Little Bay.
A regular ferry service operates five days a week between Port Little Bay in Montserrat and Heritage Quay Pier in Antigua with the 52 km crossing taking 90 minutes on the fast boat – Jaden Sun.
If you ever spent time in Saint Vincent & the Grenadines, you might recognise this boat as being the old inter-island ferry which was once captained by the famous Captain Elvis and connected the Grenadines to the main island of St. Vincent on a daily basis.
I’d always wondered where this boat (which was a lifeline for the Grenadines) had disappeared to and was very surprised to see it in its new role as the Antigua-Montserrat ferry.
An advertisement announces a day trip to neighbouring Guadeloupe on the Jaden Sun.
The ferry company also operates occasional charters to neighbouring St. Kitts, Nevis and Guadeloupe. You can view the current schedule and fares on the Montserrat Access Division Facebook page and you can make bookings on this website.
A view of the Jaden Sun, en-route from Antigua to Montserrat, cutting a path across giant Sargassum seaweed blooms.
Getting Around
Scenic flights over Montserrat can be arranged by helicopter.
Bus
A small fleet of mini-vans shuttle back and forth along the one main road, during daylight hours and to no fixed schedule, stopping wherever required, charging a fare of EC$3.
Taxi
There are approximately 30 taxis on Montserrat, all of whom are easily identifiable by their green license plates beginning with the letter ‘H‘. Taxis are available at the boat dock, airport or can be booked through your accommodation provider. You can view a complete listing of taxi operators on the Visit Montserrat website.
Rental Car
My temporary Monserrat drivers license.
Your best option for exploring Montserrat is to hire a car, most of which are aging 4WD vehicles, which are ideal on the tough island roads. Although none of the international car rental chains are represented, you can organise car hire through your accommodation provider or from the complete list of operators on the Visit Montserrat website.
If driving, you’ll need to purchase a temporary local Drivers License (EC$50/ valid for 90 days) from the immigration officer at the airport (if you’re collecting your car upon arrival) or a police station elsewhere.
It’s easy to know who the tourists are on the island, as all rental vehicles have special red license plates beginning with the letter ‘R‘. The roads are steep, narrow and full of hairpin turns but traffic is light and there are no traffic lights on the island. With just one main road meandering through the northern half of the island, navigation devices are definitely not required.
That’s the end of my Montserrat Travel Guide.
Safe Travels!
Darren
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Further Reading
Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:
Welcome to the taste2travel Faroe Islands Travel Guide!
Date Visited: May 2018
Introduction
Like its northern neighbour, Iceland, the Faroe Islands (Faroese: Føroyar) offer spectacular, eye-popping scenery and a unique travel experience far off the well-beaten, European tourist trail.
The, rugged, majestic and monumental scenery of the Faroe Islands offer excellent hiking possibilities.
A self-governing archipelago, which together with Greenland, forms a constituent part of the Kingdom of Denmark, the Faroe Islands are comprised of 18 inhabited islands with a scattered population of 50,000 (25% of whom live in the capital city of Tórshavn) and almost twice as many sheep.
Spectacular views in every direction on the Faroe Islands.
The islands are the exposed summits of deep, submerged volcanoes and are typically high and rugged with dramatic, perpendicular cliffs. The islands tend to be long and thin and are separated by narrow sounds or fjords, which are notorious for their strong currents.
The precipitous cliffs of Ritubergsnøva soar a staggering 376 metres from the Atlantic.
Like Iceland, the Faroe Islands are treeless, being composed of hard volcanic (basalt) rock which is covered by a thin layer of moraine or peat soil. During periods of heavy rainfall, the rocky islands come alive with countless dramatic, plunging waterfalls which empty directly into the sea.
A dramatic waterfall on the road to Saksun.
Thanks to frequent flights from neighbouring countries, accessing this remote archipelago is surprisingly simple while a car/ passenger ship provides weekly connections between Denmark and Iceland (see the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details).
Faroe Islands flags on sale in Tórshavn.
Travelling around the islands is made easy by a reliable bus network which connects the major urban centres. If you wish to maximise your time and explore the more remote corners of this incredible archipelago you will either need a rental car or a good pair of hiking boots.
The endemic Faroe Islands sheep are all free-range, able to wander wherever they please in order to consume the rich bounty the island provides.
If you wish to take to the air, the only option is the helicopter service provided by Atlantic Airways (see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below for more details).
The most spectacular drives are known as ‘Buttercup’ routes and are signposted with special signs. A rental car is the best way to explore these scenic back-roads.
How long to spend on the Faroe Islands? I would recommend one week (with a rental car) which will allow you plenty of time to explore those islands connected by road and under-sea tunnels and to make side trips to islands connected by ferry (see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below for more details).
Whatever amount of time you spend, you’ll find a visit to this magical archipelago surprising and rewarding and, maybe like me, you’ll be already planning your next visit while sipping a coffee in one of the quayside cafes in Tórshavn.
Location
Tórshavn, Faroe Islands
The Faroe Islands are located in the middle of the North Atlantic Ocean at 62º latitude North (4°33′ south of the Arctic Circle), about halfway between Iceland and Norway. The overall length of the archipelago north-south is 113 kilometres, and 75 kilometres east-west.
Although located close to the Arctic Circle, the islands generally have cool summers (average temperature: 11º C) and mild winters (3º C) due to the prevailingGulf Stream.
A boat (bottom left) is dwarfed by the towering peaks which surround the Funning’s Fjord on Eysturoy Island.
History
Ancient
The ancient Althing (parliament) was first convened on the rocky point which is today the Tinganes neighbourhood in Tórshavn.
Archaeological excavations on the island of Sandoy indicate that humans were present on the Faroe Islands as early as the 3rd century AD, however these excavations do not provide any clues as to who these people were.
The first known settlers were Irish monks, who in the 6th century AD told of the “Islands of the Sheep and the Paradise of Birds”.
In the 9th century, Viking settlers – who were escaping the tyranny of Norway’s first king, Harald I – arrived on the islands from Norway, naming them Føroyar which is derived from old Norse and means Sheep Islands, which is appropriate since today the sheep population is almost double the human population.
These Norse settlers brought with them their medieval culture, which included the establishment of their Althing (parliament), at Tinganes in Tórshavn. Tórshavn still is the capital city of the Faroe Islands, and it claims to hold the oldest parliament in the world.
The name ‘Faroe’ is an old Norse word for ‘Sheep’ which are plentiful on the islands.
During the Viking age, Norwegian Kings aspired to gain control over the islands, but for many centuries the Faroese managed to fight them off. However, in the 12th century the Faroe Islands eventually became a part of the Kingdom of Norway.
In the 14th century, the Faroe Islands joined Norway into a dual monarchy with Denmark. However, when this union was succeeded by a Norwegian-Swedish union in 1814 the Faroe Islands remained under the sovereignty of the Kingdom of Denmark. Due to its remoteness, distinct language and culture, the Faroe Islands always remained autonomous.
Modern
In 1940, when German forces invaded and occupied Denmark, British forces launched “Operation Valentine” to occupy the Faroe Islands in an effort to pre-empt a German invasion. The occupation lasted until the end of the Second World War, with the last British troops leaving in 1945. During this period, the Faroese flag was officially recognized for the first time by a foreign (British) government and the Faroese exercised a greater degree of autonomy over their affairs.
Following the war, a referendum regarding independence was held and while a small majority voted in favour of independence from Denmark, a subsequent parliamentary election saw the election of a majority of members who decide to remain under Danish rule.
Nevertheless, in response to growing calls for autonomy, the Home Rule Act of the Faroe Islands was passed in 1948, cementing the Faroe Islands’ status as a self-governing territory within the Danish Realm. The Act allows for the vast majority of domestic affairs to be controlled by the Faroese government.
Salmon farming is the main industry on the Faroe Islands with huge farms occupying most of the inter-island channels.
Today fisheries and aquaculture are the basis for the production and export of high quality Faroese fish products, which constitute 95 per cent of the total income of exported goods.
Most of the fjords and channels which separate the islands are home to huge AtlanticSalmon farms, with the salmon being exported around the world. Especially popular in Sushi restaurants, fresh Faroese Salmon is available for consumption in European and U.S. restaurants just 72 hours after being harvested.
People & Sheep
A view of Tórshavn, the capital and largest city in the Faroe Islands.
The islands are home to a population of 50,000 with 25% living in the capital (Tórshavn) and the remainder living in small, scattered coastal settlements. The official languages are Faroese (most closely related to Icelandic) and Danish.
My rental car surrounded by some curious Faroese Sheep.
With an estimated population of 80,000 – the endemic and ubiquitous Faroese sheep far outnumber the human population. Faroese sheep are highly adapted to their vertical environment and can be found grazing on the highest of cliffs and on the edge of impossibly steep ledges. While exploring the islands, you’ll pass sheep grazing along the sides of all roads and on the highest of mountain passes.
The Faroese pride themselves on doing things their way and, in 2016, enterprising locals – who had became impatient waiting for Google to complete ‘Street View’ mapping of the archipelago – strapped cameras to the backs of their wandering ovine population and used them to provide a unique street view experience.
Flag
The flag of the Faroe Islands.
Like the flags of neighbouring Scandinavian countries, the flag of the Faroe islands incorporates a red Nordic cross, which is offset to the left. The red cross is fimbriated azure and is set on a white field.
The Faroe Islands flag flying in downtown Tórshavn.
The flag design closely resembles that of the Norwegian flag, with white symbolising the foam of the sea and the pure, radiant sky of the Faroe Islands. The Faroese blue and red colours are reminiscent of other Scandinavian and Nordic flags; representing the Faroe Islands’ bonds with other Nordic countries.
Currency
Faroe Islands Krona bank notes are works of art.
There are two currencies of equal value in circulation on the islands: the Faroese Króna and the Danish Krone, both of which are printed in Copenhagen by the Danmarks Nationalbank. While two types of banknotes are in circulation, only Danish coins are used.
The Faroese Króna notes are beautiful works of art, featuring a fragment of a Faroese animal on the face side and watercolour Faroese landscapes by local artist Zacharias Heinesen on the reverse side. An interesting feature is the inclusion of a mother-of-pearl security strip on the reverse side of each note.
Faroese banknotes are regarded as a foreign currency in Denmark thus they are not legal tender in there, so it’s best to spend or convert your Faroese notes prior to departing the islands.
Tunnels
A map indicating road tunnels on the Faroe Islands. Source: Wikipedia
While travelling around the Faroe Islands you will pass through many different road tunnels, some cut through mountains, while others pass under the sea. All tunnels are operated by a dedicated company – Tunnil. If you wish to download the above map, you can do so from Wikipedia.
Currently the longest tunnel on the Faroe Islands is the 6.3 km Norðoyatunnilin under-sea tunnel which connects Esturoy Island to Bordoy Island. This 2-lane, engineering marvel, reaches a depth of 150 metres below sea level and includes a sub-sea roundabout (the only roundabout beneath the Atlantic Ocean), which is very useful in the event you realise, mid-tunnel, that you forgot to buy the milk or bread and need to go back.
To keep motorists amused during the lengthy crossing, colourful light art by Faroese artist Tróndur Patursson has been installed.
Me yielding (who wouldn’t?) to an approaching truck, at the entrance of the 2-km long Hvannasundstunnilin (Hvannasund Tunnel) close to Norðdepil on the island of Borðoy.
In 2022, construction is scheduled to be completed on the biggest project of all time – the 11 km long Eysturoyartunnilin (Eysturoy Tunnel), which will also include a roundabout with two spur roads and will connect the island of Streymoy to Eysturoy, passing under the Tangafjørður (fjord).
Highlighted in red on the map above, the tunnel will not only be the longest in the Faroe Islands but the longest sub-sea road tunnel in the world.
The tunnel will shorten the travel distance from Tórshavn to Runavík from 55 kilometres (34 miles) to 17 kilometres (11 miles). The 64 minute drive will be shortened to 16 minutes. The drive from Tórshavn to Klaksvík will be shortened from 68 minutes to 36 minutes.
In terms of length, the 11 km long Eysturoy Tunnel is a minnow compared to the proposed 24 km long under-sea tunnel which will eventually join StreymoyIsland with the southernmost island of Suðuroy.
While the newer tunnels offer pleasant driving experiences complete with wide lanes and artistic light installations, many older tunnels offer a more harrowing experience.
These tunnels are normally unlit, roughly cut, one-lane, narrow passageways, on a two-way road (with one direction having priority over the other) and range in length with the longest being the tunnel on Kunoy Island which is 3 km long.
Driving through the one-lane, unlit, 3-km long Kunoy tunnel. Passing bays allow for oncoming traffic to pass.
While driving through these dark, narrow caverns you need to watch for the headlights of oncoming vehicles and, if you are required to yield, pull into one of the regular passing bays.
You need to constantly stay alert and hope that anyone coming in the other direction got the message to yield, or maybe you are required to yield, or sometimes everyone is confused so everyone yields!
It’s all like a game of ‘chicken’ seeing how far you can drive towards the lights of an oncoming car, before yielding (it’s hard to gauge distances in these tunnels and sometimes what you think are the lights of an oncoming car is the daylight at the end of the tunnel).
It all makes for a ‘Mister Magoo’ type of adventure.
Driving through the 2.2 km long Hvannasundstunnilin (Hvannasund Tunnel) on Bordoy Island.
Sightseeing
The islands in the sightseeing section are ordered from west to east starting with Vágar Island (home to the airport and point of arrival for most visitors) and ending with Vidoy Island.
Vágar Island
The village of Gásadalur remained isolated from the world until the Gásadalur tunnel was completed in 2006.
Located at the end of the road on the northwest coast of Vágar Island, the tiny village of Gásadalur (population: 18) is nestled in a gentle, green valley, overlooking the Mykines Fjord and surrounded by the highest peaks on Vágar Island.
Completed in 2006, the 1.4 km single-lane Gásadalur tunnel was blasted through the mountain to provide access to the tiny village of Gásadalur.
Despite being located on the coast the village was isolated from the rest of the world for most of its existence due to the poor mooring sight which lies at the base of a cliff.
Previously, the only way of accessing the village was either by trekking over a 700-metre high mountain, taking a boat or flying via helicopter.
Not surprisingly, the population of the village dwindled over the years with just 16 residents remaining in 2002.
In 2004 construction started on a 1.4 kmsingle-lane tunnel – the Gásadalstunnilin – which was blasted through the Knúkarnir mountain, finally opening the village to the outside world in 2006.
Since becoming more accessible, the population has increased by 2!
The breathtakingly beautiful Mulafossur Waterfall plunges 60 metres into the Atlantic Ocean near the village of Gásadalur.
There are several hiking trails in the area and the village offers panoramic views of neighbouring Mykines Island. The standout attraction is the magnificent Mulafossur Waterfall, which starts life as a trickle on the towering peaks above the village, eventually plunging 60 metres in a single drop into the Atlantic Ocean. A magnificent sight!
The picturesque village of Bøur.
South of Gásadalur (heading back towards the airport), is the quaint seaside village of Bøur (population: 75). This compact village has a long history, dating back to at least 1350 AD. The historic houses (and one very cute church) are bunched tightly together along the (black sand) bay.
While driving between Bøur and Gásadalur you should look for an unmarked left-turn (just before the Gásadalur tunnel) onto a gravel road which will dead-end at a parking lot close to the coast. From here, you can walk through the fields (full of friendly sheep) towards the sea where a stunning beach and waterfall can be seen (no idea what the name of this beach is).
I came across this incredible sight after walking through some fields north of the village of Bøur.
South of Bøur, the town of Sørvágur offers dining and accommodation options (5 minutes from the airport) and is the departure point for boats to Mykines Island. If you’re using public transport, bus #300 connects Sørvágur to the airport and Tórshavn.
While in Sørvágur, I stayed at (and dined at) Guest House Hugo which makes an ideal base for exploring the region and is a perfect option if you have an early morning departure from the airport. The guesthouse can also organise rental cars (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below for more details).
An incredible sight – Sørvágsvatn is the largest lake in the Faroes and occupies the most dramatic setting high above the Atlantic.
Wow! Wow! Wow! What an amazing sight… located immediately south of the airport, Sørvágsvatn or Leitisvatn is the largest lake in the Faroe Islands and occupies what must be the most dramatic setting for any lake on this planet. If you see just one thing on the islands – this must be it.
A lone hiker lends a sense of scale to the magnificent scenery on the coast of Vágar island.
The lake lies in a depression 40 metres above the sea and empties into the Atlantic via a waterfall at it’s western end. However the perspective from the nearby 100 metre high sea cliffs makes for the most incredible (and vertigo inducing) photography.
How close do you dare get to the edge in order to get the perfect shot? Once you reach the coast, the views in either direction are stupendous.
Two hikers are dwarfed by the towering cliffs of the Vágar coast.
Access to the unmarked hiking trail is from a car park on the main airport road. If you’re using public transport, bus #300 will drop you at the trail head. The hike is along a muddy 4 km long track so bring some water and allow at least half a day here.
Located on the south coast of Vágar Island, Sandavágur has been voted the most well-kept village in the Faroes – twice.
The striking church of Sandavá dominates the village of Sandavágur, which has twice been voted the best-kept village in the Faroe Islands.
While this quiet, sleepy village offers little in the way of distractions, it is the access point for visits to the nearby Trøllkonufingur (The Troll Finger) – an iconic 313 m high shard of volcanic rock which pierces the sky from the Atlantic.
A view of yet another Salmon farm, near to the town of Sandavágur.
While this dramatic monolith is the subject of many local legends (it’s also known as the Witches Finger), the only people known to have climbed it were a bunch of Kiwi climbers in 2016 – they recorded their experience on Instagram.
The dramatic Troll Finger soars skyward from the Atlantic.
The only road connection between Vágar Island and neighbouring Streymoy Island is via the 5 km long (16,210 ft) under-sea Vágatunnilin.
This two-lane tunnel reaches a depth of 105 metres (344 ft) below sea level and requires the payment of a toll, which can be made at the “Effo” service station which is on the main road on the Streymoy Island side of the tunnel.
Streymoy Island
Houses in the Tinganes district of Tórshavn.
As much as anywhere on an archipelago could be referred to as the ‘mainland’, the Faroese do indeed call Streymoy Island just that. Streymoy is the largest and most populated of all the islands and is home to the capital and largest city – Tórshavn (population: 13,089 with 21,000 living in the greater urban area).
Boats in Tórshavn harbour.
While hardly a big, bustling city (there are just three traffic lights on the Faroe Islands, all of which are in downtown Tórshavn), the capital is a charming place to spend some time and with most of the accommodation and dining options on the Faroe Islands (see those sections below) it makes for a logical base.
Despite being a treeless archipelago, many houses on the Faroe Islands are constructed from timber and painted glossy colours – including black. This makes for a nice contrasting background onto which colourful ornaments are added. Can you see the camouflaged mailbox?
The sights of Tórshavn can be enjoyed on a short, pleasant stroll around the compact downtown area. Here you’ll find the picturesque port area and the historic Tinganes neighbourhood (home to the oldest parliament in the world). There is one art gallery – Listasavn Føroya (National Gallery of the Faroe Islands) – which is located on a hill north of the city centre.
Travel Tip: One travel tip worth mentioning is that buses in Tórshavn are free of charge.
A view at the top of the steep road which descends into the tiny settlement of Norðradalur.
Elsewhere on Streymoy Island there are three outstanding Buttercup routes, one of which is the high road (route 10) which runs along the barren, central plateau of the island, connecting Tórshavn with the airport road (route 11) near the Vágar tunnel.
I often travelled on this road as there is very little traffic (most people use the busier coastal road) and the panoramic views are incredible.
While on this route, it’s worth making the short detour and taking the steep, hair-pinned, narrow road down to the coastal village of Norðradalur. Really beautiful!
A wind farm located alongside route 10 on the central plateau of Streymoy Island.
At the northern end of Streymoy Island, another Buttercup route (route 53) connects the main-road village of Hvalvik (reachable from Tórshavn on bus #400) with the stunningly beautiful village of Saksun.
The drive along this road is challenging – a one-lane (but two way) elevated road with no shoulders, no rail guards and a river flowing alongside. Thankfully it’s never too busy and there are passing bays along the way should you encounter an oncoming car.
On the road to the remote village of Saksun.
Saksun lies in the bottom of what used to be an inlet of the sea, surrounded by high mountains. On the day I visited, the weather was typically Faroese – howling winds and horizontal, pelting rain which created impossible conditions in which to photograph. The village was surrounded by gushing waterfalls which was exciting but made hiking impossible.
Old turf-roofed farmhouses in the village of Saksun.
From Saksun, there is a popular hiking trail which takes you over the mountain and down to the coastal village of Tjørnuvík, although walking anywhere was not possible on the day I visited.
A very wet day in the village of Saksun, with a view of Lake Saksun.
Video:
How is it to drive along Route 53 to Saksun?
I recorded this video (while of course focusing carefully on my driving).
The third Buttercup route (route 594) connects the main-road village of Oyrarbakki (reachable from Tórshavn on bus #400) to the stunningly situated village of Tjørnuvík (population: 64).
I visited on a stormy day, but even with washed out views, the scenery was magnificent with Tjørnuvík surrounded on all sides by gushing waterfalls.
A view of the very narrow route 594 as it makes its final descent into the coastal village of Tjørnuvík.
Route 594 follows the coast of Streymoy Island with spectacular views across the Sundini fjord to neighbouring Eysturoy Island, including the 343-metre-high promontory – Eiðiskollur – which seems to be guarded by two rocky sentinels – Risin og Kellingin (means: The Giant and the Witch) – two sea stackswhich rise up 75 metres from the sea.
A hazy view of the soaring 343-metre-high Eiðiskollur promontory with the two 75-m high sea stacks – Risin og Kellingin.
Eysturoy Island
The village of Funningur (which lies on a Fjord of the same name) is illuminated by a late burst of sunlight.
Eysturoy Island (meaning ‘East Island’) is the 2nd largest of the Faroe Islands. The island is connected to the main island of Streymoy by the Streymin Bridge, which locals jokingly refer to as the only bridge over the Atlantic.
On the Buttercup route between Eiði and Funningur on Eysturoy Island.
The island is home to three Buttercup Routes with the most spectacular being the drive between the northern villages of Eiði and Funningur.
Before leaving the village of Eiði, it’s worth checking out the dramatic waterfall which crashes off the side of a high cliff into the sea. Depending on the time of the year, it will be either a trickle or a raging cascade.
Plunging hundreds of metres before becoming mist, yet another dramatic waterfall on the remote north coast of Eysturoy, near the village of Eiði.
The 12 km long road crosses a spectacular mountain pass (which is not maintained in winter) and passes directly under the summit of Slættaratindur, which – at an elevation of 880 m (2,887 ft) above the sea level – is the highest mountain in the Faroe Islands.
The highest mountain in the Faroe Islands, Slættaratindur (880 m), towers over the village of Funningur.
A turn (high above Funningur) allows you to make a detour into the popular tourist village of Gjógv, which comes into view after crossing yet another lofty mountain pass. This tiny village (population: 49) is incredibly scenic and makes a good base for hikes in the area.
The village is also popular as it features the only accommodation and restaurant option in this part of the world – the HotelGjáargarður (Guesthouse of Gjógv).
The view of the village of Gjógv from the restaurant at the Hotel Gjáargarður.
Nearby, a second buttercup route connects the villages of Funningsfjørður with charming Elduvik (population: 23). The drive along this road offers panoramic views of the dramatic coastline and the cobalt blue Funnings Fjord. When I arrived in Elduvik, the afternoon sun made an appearance (the first all day) which provided fantastic lighting.
A view of the picturesque village of Elduvik, which lies on the Funnings Fjord inlet.
The third Buttercup route is located at the southern end of Eysturoy Island, south of the main urban centre of Runavik. The route provides panoramic views of Toftavatn (Lake Toftir), the fourth-largest natural lake in the Faroe Islands.
A view of Toftavatn (Lake Toftir), with the town of Runavik in the background.
Borðoy Island
Borðoy Island (meaning ‘Headland Island’) is known for its nature, mountains, valleys and beautiful fjords.
While travelling around Borðoy, you’ll pass through two older tunnels; the 1,680-metre Árnafjarðartunnilin and the 2-km long Hvannasundstunnilin, which provide an east-west connection across the island. Both tunnels are unlit and feature a single lane (there’s one priority direction), with a series of passing bays.
The main town on Borðoy is Klaksvik which is the 2nd largest town on the Faroes (population: 4740) and is home to the vitally important Föroya Bjór brewery. The brewery produces a good range of craft beers and has a factory shop where you can stock up.
The craft beers produced by Föroya Bjór are very quaffable.
Apart from beer, the brewery produces a line of local soda drinks, including the popular Jolly Cola which is often the only cola available on the islands.
Feel like a Coca-Cola? The Faroese are keen supporters of their local Cola with many businesses only offering Jolly Cola rather than the more famous international cola.
Klaksvik offers a couple of accommodation options (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below) and is the main access point for Kalsoy Island, with regular car ferries departing for the island from a dedicated dock – click here to view the current timetable.
The view across to Vidoy Island from the village of Múli.
The island is home to one Buttercup route which runs along its western shore from the village of Norðdepil (reachable by #500 bus from Klaksvik) to the abandoned village of Múli.
If you’re driving, the narrow road is paved most of the way with the last 20% being rough gravel as you descend into the village. The route provides panoramic views of neighbouring Viðoy Island and lots of opportunities to interact with friendly Faroese sheep.
The Faroe Islands are full of super-cute rural scenes such as this one at Múli village.
Kunoy Island
The remote village of Kunoy on Kunoy Island.
Kunoy Island (meaning ‘Woman Island’) is the highest island in the Faroes with six summits above 800 metres. This long, narrow, exposed, volcanic mountain range is home to just two small villages which cling to the narrow coastline; Kunoy (population: 64) on the west coast and Haraldsund on the east coast.
Hiking trail near Kunoy Village.
Hiking trails from Kunoy Village provide access to the loftier parts of the island and if you’re planning on hiking you should bring all supplies with you from Klaksvik as there are no shops anywhere on the island.
Entrance to the 3-km long Kunoyartunnilin which was completed in 1988, providing access to the previously isolated Kunoy village.
A causeway near to Haraldsund connects Kunoy Island to Bordoy Island and, immediately after crossing the causeway, you enter the 3-km long, one-lane, unlit Kunoyartunnilin (road tunnel) which was completed in 1988 and, for the first time, provided access to the previously isolated village of Kunoy.
How many governments around the world would build a 3-km long tunnel though hard volcanic rock to connect a village of 64 souls to the outside world? Not too many!
Viðoy Island
The circuitous, but narrow, road around Vidoy Island offers spectacular views.
Viðoy is the northernmost island of the Faroes and features two small villages – Viðareiði (population: 346) to the north and Hvannasund to the south.
Vidoy translates as ‘Wood‘ and despite the fact that no trees grow on the island; the name relates to the driftwood that floats in from Siberia and North America. A newly completed tunnel which cuts through the central spine of the island allows you to tour Viðoy following a circuitous route.
The 2-km long Viðareiðistunnilin was opened in 2016, cutting a path across the centre of Vidoy Island, connecting the east and west coasts.
Viðareiði has the distinction of being the northernmost village in the Faroe Islands. Located on an isthmus and surrounded by high mountains and spectacular views, the village makes an ideal base for hikes into the nearby countryside.
A view of the village of Viðareiði from neighbouring Bordoy Island.
Heading east out of Viðareiði, the nearby island of Fugloy (the eastern-most of the Faroe Islands) comes into view. Ferries to Fugloy depart from the dock in Hvannasund, click here to view the current timetable.
The view across to Fugloy Island from Vidoy Island.
Accommodation
While there are no 5-star hotels, the Faroe Islands offer all other accommodation options, including cute private houses.
While there are no 5-star hotels on the Faroe Islands, there’s a small selection of everything else, from camping grounds to guest houses to 4-star hotels, with the majority of options located in Tórshavn.
If you plan to stay outside of the capital you should book in advance as the limited number of options are often fully booked.
Vágar & Mykines Island
My room at guest house Hugo offered sweeping views of Sørvágur harbour.
The Visit Vágar website features an accommodation directory, which lists options on Vágar and Mykines Islands. While on Vágar I stayed at Guest House Hugo in Sørvágur, which offers 4 rooms (2 doubles and 2 singles) with one shared bath/toilet at the end of the hallway.
Streymoy Island
The spacious living room at Tora guest house offers panoramic views of the harbour and nearby Nolsoy Island.
A complete listing of accommodation options on Streymoy Island can be found in the accommodation directory of the Visit Tórshavn website. The capital features five hotels and numerous guesthouses, while elsewhere on the island, small apartments and guesthouses are available.
My cosy room at the very welcoming Tora Guest House in Tórshavn.
While in Tórshavn, I stayed at the wonderful Tora Guesthouse, which offers four rooms (with one shared bathroom), a small kitchen area and a spacious living room with panoramic views of the harbour and neighbouring Nolsoy Island.
The owners (Tora and her husband Samal) are incredibly friendly, helpful and kind and made me feel like a part of their family making this feel like a home away from home.
The couple have worked in the local tourism industry for decades and, upon my arrival, Samal (who is normally busy leading tour groups around the island and is a font of information) took me for an impromptu drive around town to point out the highlights.
Eysturoy Island
My comfortable room at the remote Hotel Gjáargarður in Gjógv.
There are two hotels on Eysturoy island; the HotelGjáargarður (Guesthouse of Gjógv).which overlooks the tiny, picturesque northern village of Gjógv (population: 49) and the Hotel Runavik. There are many other smaller options, all of which are listed in the accommodation directory on the Visit Eysturoy website.
While on Eysturoy, I stayed at the busy and efficient Guesthouse of Gjógv. The vertical countryside surrounding tiny Gjógv is ideal for hiking and the approach (over a steep mountain pass) is spectacular. The guesthouse is popular and often fully booked so best to book in advance. Meals are served in the restaurant – the only one in town.
Northern Isles
The Northern Isles consist of Borðoy, Kunoy, Kalsoy, Viðoy and Svinoy. Within the isles there is one hotel – Hotel Klaksvik – and numerous small guesthouses which are featured in the accommodation directory on the Visit Nordoy website.
Eating Out
While they are so cute, they are also so tasty and many restaurant menus feature delicious Faroese ‘free-range’ sheep.
Streymoy Island
As with accommodation, the majority of restaurants, cafés and bars are to be found in Tórshavn, which offers a surprisingly rich culinary experience. Most dining options are locally run and serve only fresh, local produce and, while international junk food outlets are refreshingly absent (the Faroe Islands are one of very few countries in Europe to have no McDonalds), there is now a Burger King in Tórshavn.
Throughout town there are a number of excellent cafés, with my personal favourite being the quayside Kaffihúsið(Coffee House), which offers great tasting coffee and a good breakfast selection. Open from 9 AM until 6 PM, 7 days a week, Kaffihúsið is especially popular during lunchtime. A small Faroese craft shop adjoins the cafe and is a great place to pick up a souvenir.
Another worthwhile haunt is the beautifully appointed Paname Café, which is a short walk uphill from the harbour and offers arguably the best coffee in town along with freshly baked cakes, sandwiches and local craft beers.
Potato farming on the Faroe Islands involves covering a potato (and some fertiliser) with a cut section of peat under which the potato incubates.
There is no shortage of standout restaurants in Tórshavn, with many offering only locally sourced, high quality produce. This is the land of sheep and salmon so it’s not surprising that they feature on many menus.
One of my favourite restaurants is Katrina Christiansen which is housed in a charming, timber building in the historic Tinganes neighbourhood of Tórshavn. The restaurant features a Spanish-style tapas menu using only Faroese products – the lamb is especially recommended.
Vágar Island
The cosy and charming Café Fjørðoy at guest house Hugo features a treasure trove of historical objects which have remained in the house over the decades.
Located on the waterfront in Sørvágur, Café Fjørðoy at Guest House Hugo is under the competent command of the owners (Kent and his wife) who serve up delicious meals using fresh local produce, including Salmon from a nearby farm. The coffee is the best in town and compliments their tasty desert selection.
My delicious dinner at Guest House Hugo which featured a grilled fillet of local Salmon.
Eysturoy Island
If, like many tourists, you find yourself in the remote, tiny village of Gjógv, the only dining option for miles around is at the HotelGjáargarður (Guesthouse of Gjógv). Serving meals to visitors and guests, this cosy restaurant provides panoramic views of the village, sea and the surrounding (vertical) countryside.
No shortage of fresh Atlantic Salmon in the Faroe Islands.
Northern Isles
Within the Northern Isles, dining options are slim with the regional hub of Klaksvik providing the only real options. The most popular place (there are only two!) is the charming and friendly Café Frida whose slogan is “the best ingredients are local ingredients”. This excellent, cosy café, which overlooks Klaksvik port, is operated by an efficient and friendly team of staff who prepare the tastiest of meals (Faroese tapas lunch) using local products. The coffee is the best you’ll find this side of Tórshavn and the fresh cakes (Rhubarb cheesecake) are divine.
Visa Requirements
A Faroese passport stamp can be obtained from the police station at the airport.
Being a territory of Denmark, the visa policy of the Schengen area applies to the Faroe Islands.
Immigration Formalities
With the exception of the twice-weekly Atlantic Airways flight from Edinburgh, all other flights to the Faroe Islands originate from within the Schengen area, hence there are no immigration formalities upon arrival. If you’re not arriving from Edinburgh and wish to obtain a passport stamp, you can do so at the airport police station (turn right after exiting the terminal).
Getting There
Air
A view of the magnificent Sørvágsvatn from my SAS Airlines flight as we approach the Faroe Islands.
Flights to the Faroe Islands arrive at the brand new, modern terminal at Vágar Airport, which is located on the island of the same name. The airport is the only one on the Faroe Islands and serves as the main base for the Faroese national carrier – Atlantic Airways.
The following services are offered:
Atlantic Airways – flies to Aalborg (Denmark), Bergen (Norway), Billund (Denmark), Copenhagen (Denmark), Edinburgh (Scotland) & Reykjavík (Iceland)
Vágar island is connected to the other islands via the under-sea Vágatunnilin which is 4.9 km (3.0 mi) in length and reaches a depth of 105 metres (344 ft) below sea level. Tórshavn is 47 km (29 mi) east of the airport and can be reached in one hour on bus #300, which runs eleven times per day. Shared taxis to Tórshavn (45 mins) cost 200 DKK.
Sea
Smyril Line Route Map. Source – smyrilline.com
The Tórshavn headquartered Smyril Line operates a weekly car/ passenger ferry service between Denmark, the Faroe Islands and Iceland. Current pricesand the sailing scheduleare available from their website.
The M/S Norröna sails from Hirtshals (Denmark), docking 36 hours later in Tórshavn before continuing onto Iceland, docking 19 hours later at the eastern port town of Seyðisfjørður. Lonely Planet wrote an article on a journey aboard the boat, which you can read here.
Getting Around
Bus
The SSL bus and ferry route map. Source: http://www.ssl.fo/en/customer-service/travel-map/
Bus services are operated by Strandfaraskip Landsins (SSL), which is a nationally owned transportation company, providing bus and ferries services to all corners of the Faroe Islands. Their website provides the current bus timetable and details on Travel Cards, which are available for 4 or 7 days and provide unlimited travel on buses.
Despite providing a comprehensive service between the main urban centres, SSL buses do not reach the more remote areas of the Faroe Islands. If you wish to fully explore, your best bet is a rental car.
Ferry
Inter-island ferry services are provided by Strandfaraskip Landsins (SSL), who operate eight inter-island ferries (refer to the map above). Their website provides the current timetable and details on Travel Cards, which are available for 4 or 7 days and provide unlimited travel on ferries.
Air
Atlantic Airways – the national airline of the Faroe Islands.
If you wish to travel by air within the islands your only option is to use the helicopter service provided by Atlantic Airways. For current fares, timetables and bookings, please refer to their website.
Rental Car
My rental car, which allowed me to maximise my time on the Faroe Islands.
The best way to maximise your time on the islands is to rent a car. Roads are generally excellent, traffic is light and many of the more picturesque locations are remote and not served by public transport.
Despite their remote location, the Faroe Islands are popular with tourists and demand for cars can sometimes outstrip supply so its best to book in advance.
The following operators can be found at the airport:
The following operators can be found in other locations:
Waag Rental – One of the larger car dealers on the Faroe Islands, Waag operates a side-line car rental business with an office in Miðvágur (a short drive from the airport) and from their main downtown office in Tórshavn.
Guest House Hugo – Also a short drive from the airport in the town of Sørvágur, this cosy guest house can arrange car rental and will collect you from the airport upon arrival.
This is a taste2travel post on the Henley Passport Index.
Latest Update – January 2025
Introduction
Updated: January 2025
Henley and Partners of London have just released their 2025 Henley Passport Index to reflect the current strength of all passports.
Index Stats
227 – Number of travel destinations that may require a visa
111 – Global average number of destinations travellers can access visa-free
195 – Number of destinations top-ranked passport can access visa-free
26 – Number of destinations bottom-ranked passport can access visa-free
Once again, Singapore tops the rankings offering visa-free travel to 195 of 227 countries and territories.
Japan occupies 2nd place offering visa-free travel to 193 of 227 countries and territories.
What exactly is the Passport Index?
The Henley Passport Index is the original, authoritative ranking of all the world’s passports according to the number of destinations their holders can access without a prior visa.
For the past 19 years, the index has measured the strength of 199 different passports, and the visa-free access they enjoy to 227 travel destinations – both countries and territories.
A Measure of Passport Power
In 1984, Saint Kitts and Nevis, the smallest sovereign state in the Americas, passed a law offering citizenship to individuals who “made a substantial investment in the state” and were of good character and not a threat to the country.
Since then, other Caribbean nations such as Antigua & Barbuda, Dominica,St. Lucia and Grenadahave introduced their own citizenship programs which allow for those willing to pay a substantial fee the opportunity to easily acquire a 2nd passport.
For consulting firms in the residence and citizenship-by-investment industry, there is a need to rank the ‘quality’ or ‘power’ of different passports.
One such firm – Henley & Partners – publish the Henley Passport Index which is an annual ranking of all the passports of the world according to the number of countries their holders can travel to visa-free.
The ranking is based on data provided by the International Air Transport Association (IATA), which maintains a comprehensive database of global travel information. The IATA data is augmented by in-house research conducted by Henley & Partners itself.
Index Mechanics
The index includes 199 different passports and 227 different travel destinations.
For each travel destination, if no visa is required for passport holders from a country or territory, then a score with value = 1 is created for that passport. A score with value = 1 is also applied if passport holders can obtain a visa on arrival, a visitor’s permit, or an Electronic Travel Authority (ETA) when entering the destination.
These visa-types require no pre-departure government approval, because of the specific visa-waiver programs in place.
Where a visa is required, or where a passport holder has to obtain a government-approved electronic visa before departure, a score with value = 0 is assigned. A score with value = 0 is also assigned if passport holders need pre-departure government approval for a visa on arrival, a scenario not considered ‘visa-free’.
The total score for each passport is equal to the number of destinations for which no visa is required (value = 1), under the conditions defined above.
2025 Henley Passport Index
Strongest Passport
Once again – the Singapore passport is the world’s strongest passport in 2025.
Top Ten Strongest Passports
For the 2nd year running, the Singaporean passport is the world’s strongest passport, offering visa-free access to 195 (out of 227) countries and territories.
Rank
Passport
Count
1
Singapore
195
2
Japan
193
3
Finland
192
France
Germany
Italy
South Korea
Spain
4
Austria
191
Denmark
Ireland
Luxembourg
Netherlands
Norway
Sweden
5
Belgium
190
New Zealand
Portugal
Switzerland
United Kingdom
6
Australia
189
Greece
7
Canada
188
Malta
Poland
8
Czechia
187
Hungary
9
Estonia
186
United States
10
Latvia
185
Lithuania
Slovenia
United Arab Emirates
Weakest Passport
The Afghanistan passport is, again, the world’s weakest passport in 2024.
In 2024, the world’s weakest passport is the Afghanistan passport, which offers visa-free access to just 26 countries.
Bottom Ten Weakest Passports
At the other end of the index, the weakest passport belongs to Afghanistan, whose citizens can visit just 26 countries visa-free.
Rank
Passport
Count
96
Iran
44
South Sudan
Sri Lanka
97
Sudan
43
98
Eritrea
42
99
North Korea
41
100
Bangladesh
40
Libya
Palestinian Territory
101
Nepal
39
102
Somalia
35
103
Pakistan
33
Yemen
104
Iraq
31
105
Syria
27
106
Afghanistan
26
Online Passport Comparison
The Henley & Partners website allows you to compare the strength of your passport and to view the performance of your passport during the 18 years in which the index has been compiled.
How does your passport measure up?
That’s the end of this featured article on the Henley Passport Index.
If you wish to leave any feedback, you can do so using the form below or via the Contactpage.
Welcome to the taste2travel Country & Territory List!
Last Update: 4th of September 2023
Introduction
A far-away-land, the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia is the World’s largest salt plain.
Once-upon-a-time, in a far away land, I was curious to know how many countries and territories I’d visited.
Whilst I don’t visit destinations simply to tick them off a checklist, after visiting so many places, I needed a way to keep track of where I’d been.
I searched high and low for an editable, electronic list but found nothing suitable so I created my own Countries and Territories list in Excel and built in some basic functionality, sparing me the onerous task of always updating my ‘total’ count.
United Nations Members
The United Nations General Assembly hall in New York City.
Once I started researching, I realised that there are many different types of ‘country’ lists. The United Nations defines a country as those states whose sovereignty is undisputed.
Currently there are 193 such states, with all of them being members of the United Nations. For many “country counters”, the list of 193 UN member countries is the standard reference list which they adhere to.
UN Structure
Member States
Following its independence, Timor-Leste (East Timor) became the 191st member of the United Nations.
With the addition of South Sudan on the 14th of July 2011 to the UN, there are currently a total of 193 UN member states, which includes all undisputed independent states – apart from Vatican City. The UN member states meet in the General Assembly hall at UN Headquarters in New York City.
Non-member States
There are currently two non-member states, the Vatican City (Holy See) and the State of Palestine, which have a standing invitation to participate as observers in the sessions and the work of the General Assembly and maintain permanent observer missions at UN Headquarters.
Limited Recognition States
This cloaked statue of Lenin greets all visitors arriving in Tiraspol, capital of Transnistria.
Additionally, there are currently ninestates whose sovereignty is disputed and, hence, are unable to become UN members. Included on this list are Taiwan, Kosovo and Western Sahara, all of which are included on my list.
Another disputed state is Transnistria, which has broken away from neighbouring Moldova. A wonderfully quirky destination, you can read all about it in my Transnistria Travel Guide.
Video: How Many Countries Are There?
Dependent Territories
The ‘Blue Hole of Voh’ in New Caledonia, a French territory in the South Pacific.
One of the limitations of the UN list is that all dependent territories are included under the umbrella of their parent state.
As an example, by spending some time in France, you can tick-off ‘France’, which also includes all the dependent French territories.
Those who focus only on visiting the 193 UN member states can rightly claim that they have visited ‘all countries’ in the World, which is semantically correct. However, focusing only on the UN states disregards the many fascinating and engaging territories located around the world.
An incredible sight, Sørvágsvatn is the largest lake in the Faroe Islands, a territory of Denmark.
Once you include dependent territories, you have a choice of including the many uninhabited territories (small islands in the middle of nowhere which are home to a few seabirds) or just the inhabited ones. I chose to include only the populated territories on my list.
There are also two populated territories which serve as sovereign military bases and are off-limits to visitors; Akrotiri and Dhekelia (Cyprus) and the British Indian Ocean Territory, both of which are administered by the United Kingdom.
Such places have been excluded from my list as they are not accessible to the travelling public.
Antarctica
An Adelie Penguin with her chick in Antarctica.
One exception to the rules of inclusion is Antarctica. A truly unique destination, technically no one owns Antarctica, although a lot of people claim it, and you can visit it.
While not a UN member, or a territory of any one country, I have included it on my list.
Sovereign Military Order of Malta
You can read all about the fascinating Sovereign Military Order of Malta in my SMOM Travel Guide.
Then there is the case of the truly bizarre Sovereign Military Order of Malta (click to read my SMOM Travel Guide) which has its own military, currency, postage stamps and passports, and which has permanent observer status at the UN, but doesn’t have any territory.
Headquartered in the opulent Palazzo Malta in Rome, its mission is summed up in its motto:
“Tuitio fidei et obsequium pauperum” (“Defence of the Catholic faith and assistance to the poor”).
The order is led by an elected Prince and Grand Master.
The SMOM is a non-state sovereign entity and is not included in the United Nations, as it claims neither statehood nor territory.
The Order has established full diplomatic relations with 107 sovereign states as a sovereign subject of international law, and also maintains full diplomatic relations with the European Union, the Holy See, and the State of Palestine.
I have not included the Order on my list.
Travel Clubs
Travelers’ Century Club
Based in the United States, the Travelers’ Century Club maintains a list of 330 destinations which its members spend their time visiting. The TCC claims that their list “has widespread recognition as the standard of countries and territories that are of significant interest, as distinct destinations, to serious travellers”.
Membership, which requires an annual fee, is open only to those who can prove that they have visited at least 100 countries.
Most Traveled People
Most Traveled People (MTP) is a free club for travellers who aspire to go “everywhere.”
Where is everywhere? MTP’s master-list includes 1500 destinations for you to tick-off, with most countries broken down into separate states/ provinces/ counties or regions. Enough to keep you busy for a lifetime or two!
Once you’ve finished ticking the boxes, you can view your ranking against the thousands of other members and possibly make the ‘Hall of Fame‘, which lists those members who have visited at least 500 destinations, of which I am one.
The website includes news on the latest exploits of enthusiastic adventurers who risk life and limb on their quest to reach every remote outpost on the planet.
Nomad Mania
Nomadmania is an online community and website that focuses on the concept of world travel and exploration. It is a platform designed for avid travelers and “nomads” who are passionate about visiting and documenting various destinations around the globe.
At its core, Nomadmania aims to encourage travellers to explore as many countries and territories as possible. The website provides a comprehensive list of all the recognised countries and territories in the world and numerous regions, currently standing at 1301 entries. Users can create an account and track their progress by ticking off the places they have visited.
Overall, Nomadmania serves as a hub for travel enthusiasts to connect, inspire each other, and track their global exploration progress. It aims to foster a sense of community among passionate travellers and encourage them to embark on new adventures while discovering the diversity of our world.
Best Country Counting App
Mark O’Travel
My travel map on the Mark O’Travel app, with all countries visited shaded in ‘Yves Klein Blue’, the same blue which is used throughout the Taste2travel website.
There are many free apps which allow you to keep track of the countries you have visited.
The one I use, and recommend, is Mark O’Travel, which, unlike other apps, allows you to select the country list you wish to use and offers much more functionality. The map can be fully tailored including the colours used for specific regions, countries etc.
The basic country list is comprised of the 193 UN Member States, from which you can then add different types of dependent territory lists.
A flag icon is included for each country/ territory, and, for those who wish to be even more specific, region lists are available for many countries.
Pin Traveler
Want to create a wish list for your future travels?
Want to keep track of the countries and territories which you have visited?
Do you want to view your travels on a world map?
Pin Traveler helps you keep track of your trips all around the world and allows you to share your travel accomplishments with whoever you want!
Keep track of countries, states, and cities on your map, and discover your travel stats.
Taste2travel Country & Territory List
The Taste2travel Country & Territory list includes 251 UN+ countries and dependent(populated)territories.
To make this Excel-format list your own, simply click on the ‘Click toDownload‘ link below, then place an ‘X‘ next to those destinations you’ve visited.
The only cells which can be edited on the spreadsheet are those in the ‘Visited’ column.
Note: the only cells which can be edited are in the ‘Visited‘ column. All other cells are locked as they do not need to be edited.
Your total count will be displayed at the bottom of the list.
Welcome to the taste2travel Amazon River Travel Guide – Part 2!
Forward
A 4,334 kilometre (2,693 mile) meander along the Amazon River from Iquitos, Peru to the Atlantic Ocean in Brazil is an epic voyage and, as such, this travel guide was always going to be monumental in size.
To make the guide more manageable, I have split it into two parts:
Amazon River Travel Guide – Part 1: contains sections on History, Currency, Visa Requirements, Boat Travel and details on destinations in Peru (Iquitos/ Santa Rosa) and Colombia (Leticia).
Amazon River Travel Guide – Part 2: contains details on destinations in Brazil –Tabatinga, Manaus, Santarém, Belém, Marajó Island and Macapá.
Enjoy!
Slowly working my way towards the Atlantic Ocean – on a slow boat down the Amazon River.
Destinations – continued from Part 1
Tabatinga (Brazil)
Introduction
The Brazilian border town of Tabatinga forms a single conurbation with neighbouring Leticia – you can simply walk between the two without passing through any immigration formalities.
Tabatinga is a small, gritty, frontier town with an edgy feel to it – there is nothing redeeming about it. The main reason you would come to Tabatinga is for transit purposes. If you are spending any time in the area, neighbouring Leticia is a much more inviting place to spend time.
I spent a total of 7 days cruising along the Amazon with each day ending with an amazing sunset.
Formalities
While in the three-way border zone, you can travel freely between Leticia (Colombia), Tabatinga (Brazil) and Santa Rosa (Peru) without restriction, although you should carry your passport with you at all times. Once you leave the zone, you’ll need to formerly exit whichever country you are departing and formally enter the country you are arriving into.
If you are travelling further into Brazil (or exiting), you will need to visit the Brazilian immigration office, which is located on the main avenue – Avenida da Amizade (Avenue of Friendship). If coming from Leticia, it’s best to take a taxi to the office.
The Brazilian authorities will not stamp you into Brazil until you have been stamped out of your previous country (they do check for your exit stamp).
If you’re traveling on either a Canadian, Australian or United States passport, you will need to obtain a Brazilian visa in advance. There are no visa’s issued upon arrival. Please refer to the ‘Visa Requirement‘ section below for more details.
A passenger ferry near Belém.
Sightseeing
There are no sights to see.
Accommodation
Better accommodation options can be found in Leticia – please refer to that section.
Eating Out
Better restaurant options can be found in Leticia – please refer to that section.
There are two slow boats which depart from Porto Fluvial in Tabatinga each Wednesday and Saturday at 11:00 AM, covering the 1,628 kilometres (1011 miles) journey in 4 days. The cost for hammock space is R$200 while a two-bed cabin costs R$1000. Meals and drinks are available on-board.
Fast boats to Manaus:
Rocketing along the Amazon river on a fast boat from Tabatinga to Manaus.
Fast boats between Tabatinga and Manaus are operated by Cris Transporte Maritimo (also known as Ajato) – who manage a fleet of fast lancha’s. You can access their Facebook page at Gloria de Deus III.
A meal served in my seat on the fast boat from Tabatinga to Manaus.
Currently one fast boat a week travels between Tabatinga andManaus, departing from the Porto Fluvial on Friday morning, arriving in Manaus 30 hours later.
A one-way ticket costs R$550, which secures you a comfortable aircraft-style seat (i.e. you are sitting upright for the entire journey), access to clean bathrooms and all inclusive meals, which are served in-seat.
Travelling from Tabatinga to Manaus on a fast boat.
Road
You can easily walk across the border between Colombia and Brazil by following the Avenida da Amizade – or you can take one of the many taxis and moto-taxis which cross the border freely.
Getting Around
Boat
Water taxis connect Tabatinga with the Peruvian settlement of Santa Rosa from where you can board boats to Iquitos, Peru.
Road
There are plenty of regular taxis and motorbike taxis on the streets of Tabatinga.
Manaus
A long way from the sea – 1,400 km upriver, an ocean-going freighter approaches Manaus port.
Introduction
With 2.1 million inhabitants, Manaus is the largest city on the Amazon (the 2nd largest is Belém with 1.5 million) and it’s busiest port. The city is located on the banks of the Rio Negro (the largest left tributary of the Amazon River and, the largest black-water river in the world) a few miles before it meets the Rio Solimões to form the Amazon River properly.
The two rivers flow side by side for many miles, different in colour, mixing in eddies: the “Meeting of the Waters.”
Despite being situated 1,400 km (900 miles) upriver from the Atlantic ocean, the Amazon is navigable for ocean-going vessels and the main economic engine of Manaus is the Duty Free port and the Manaus Free Economic Zone.
The Theatro Amazonas, Manaus.
During colonial times, great wealth was generated from rubber plantations during the period known as the Amazon Rubber Boom (1879 to 1912). The proceeds from this boom were used to build magnificent buildings, including a copy of the Grand Opera de Paris – the Teatro Amazonas. Other monuments from this period are the Mercado Municipal, a copy of the famous market halls Les Halles in Paris, and the arts centre Palacio Rio Negro.
Apart from a wealth of history and sights, Manaus serves as a regional travel hub offering onward travel possibilities to Boa Vista, Guyana and Venezuela.
Two girls on the slow boat from Santarém to Belém.
If you’re spending time meandering along the river, Manaus is the best place to take timeout, offering a good choice of accommodation, fine restaurants, bars and cafes and the biggest shopping mall on the Amazon – Amazonas Shopping.
Sightseeing
Theatro Amazonas
The most monumental building in the Amazon region, the opulent Manaus Opera House.
Dominating downtown Manaus, the spectacular Theatro Amazonas is certainly one of the most impressive sights in the entire Amazon region.
Constructed during the years of the rubber boom, when the city was awash with money, no expense was spared on its construction with the roof tiles being imported from Alsace, the steel walls from Glasgow and Carrara marble from Italy.
The ornate interior of the Theatro Amazonas, Manaus.
The dome is covered with 36,000 decorated ceramic tiles painted in the colours of the national flag of Brazil. Concerts are held often and tickets are very affordable at about US$10 each. I saw an amazing concert which showcased the culture of the Amazon, definitely a highlight of my stay!
Mercado Municipal
This ‘touristy’ riverside market is very clean and organised. It’s a good place to buy souvenirs or to have a refreshing fruit juice (made from amazing Amazonian fruits).
Meeting of the Waters
The ‘Meeting of the Waters’, down-river from Manaus.
The ‘Meeting of the Waters’ is one of the most popular sights in Manaus, but actually isn’t in Manaus. In order to see this interesting phenomenon, you’ll need to book yourself onto a boat sightseeing trip or take a slow boat down the Amazon.
This attraction lies at the point where the dark Rio Negro mixes with the sandy-coloured upper Amazon River, or Solimões, as it is known in Brazil.
Despite their coming-together, and due to their different properties, they do not immediately mix, but flow alongside each other. This Meeting of the Waters stretches for 6 km (3.7 miles) before the two different waters eventually blend together.
Our boat from Manaus to Santarém passing through the ‘Meeting of the Waters’.
This phenomenon is due to the differences in temperature, speed, and amount of dissolved sediments in the waters of the two rivers. The Rio Negro flows at near 2 km/h at a temperature of 28 °C, while the Rio Solimões flows between 4 and 6 km/h at a temperature of 22 °C.
The light-coloured water is rich with sediment from the river bed since the Andes Mountains, whereas the black water, running from the Colombian hills and interior jungles, is nearly sediment-free and coloured by decayed leaf and plant matter.
Accommodation
The best place to stay is in the historic old town where you have a good selection of guest houses, restaurants, bars and cafes and everything is within walking distance.
I stayed at the wonderful Boutique Hotel Casa Teatro which is across the road from the Opera house and in close proximity to all the sights in the old town. The neighbourhood is very pedestrian friendly with loads of dining and entertainment options.
If you prefer something more modern, there are many international chain hotels in the new town. There are plenty of options on booking.com
Eating Out
There is no shortage of good restaurants in Manaus, including a quirky revolving restaurant which is located on the top of the Taj Mahal Hotel. The décor is very 1970’s and the restaurant is tired and worn. It all feels like you’re on the set of a vintage James Bond movie set – waiting for the bad guys to arrive. The food, service and views are worthwhile and besides – where else can you eat in a revolving restaurant in the jungle?
Shopping
Manaus offers the same sort of shopping opportunities you would expect to find in any large metropolis. Something that is unexpected in the middle of the jungle is the glitzy, modern shopping mall – Amazonas Shopping – a short taxi ride from downtown. Whatever you need, you’ll find it here, along with a good selection of restaurants.
Getting There/ Away
A budding photographer on the 36-hour slow boat from Manaus to Santarém.
Air
If you don’t fancy spending days traveling on a slow boat along the Amazon river (or if you’re not arriving on a bus from Boa Vista) then flying is your only other option for reaching this remote jungle metropolis. Flights arrive at Manaus International Airport – Eduardo Gomes, which is located 13 kilometres (8 miles) west of downtown.
Gol Airlines – flies to/ from Belém, Belo Horizonte, Boa Vista, Buenos Aires-Ezeiza, Brasília, Campo Grande, Cruzeiro do Sul, Cuiabá, Curitiba, Fortaleza, Foz do Iguaçu, Porto Alegre, Porto Velho, Recife, Rio Branco, Rio de Janeiro-Galeão, Salvador da Bahia, Santarém, São Luís, São Paulo-Guarulhos
LATAM Brasil – flies to/ from Belém, Boa Vista, Brasília, Fortaleza, Miami, Salvador da Bahia, São Paulo-Guarulhos
The national airline of Curaçao, Insel Air, use to provide a very convenient connection from Manaus to Aruba. It was a great way of getting from the jungle onto a white-sand, Caribbean beach in just a few hours.
The flights were never well patronised and not surprisingly the service was terminated. I once took this flight from Manaus to Aruba, which I shared with just one other passenger. The Captain personally came to thank us for flying.
I shared this Insel Air flight from Manaus to Aruba with just one other passenger.
Road
Despite the fanciful lines often drawn onto road maps of Brazil, there are no roads connecting Manaus with the rest of Brazil – except for route BR174 which runs north to the Venezuelan border via Boa Vista (capital of Roraima state). This asphalt highway is in excellent condition, and the buses which ply the route are comfortable and fast.
To Boa Vista:
Frequent night buses run between Manaus and Boa Vista with the 746 kilometre journey taking approximately 12-13 hours. Three different companies offer multiple daily trips with fares ranging from R$157 – R$210. Eucatur offer the only daytime service which departs Manaus at 10:00, arriving in Boa Vista at 21:55. You can book tickets online here.
To Venezuela:
The Venezuelan border is 960 kilometres north of Manaus at the end of BR174. Any journey to the border will require a change of transport in Boa Vista (please refer to the ‘Boa Vista – Getting There‘ section for more details).
To Guyana:
There are no direct transport options from Manaus to Guyana. Like Venezuela, you will first need to travel to Boa Vista then take a bus or shared taxi to the border town of Bonfim then cross the Takutu River Bridge, entering Guyana at the town of Lethem (please refer to the ‘Boa Vista – Getting There‘ section for more details).
Boat
Amazon river ‘slow’ boats docked in Manaus.
Manaus is the busiest port on the Amazon with regular boats departing to all points along the river. Tickets should be purchased in advance from the ticket offices at the dock.
Slow Boats:
Slow boats depart from the chaotic and crowded docks in downtown Manaus. Departures include:
Manaus to Tabatinga: The up-river journey can take anywhere from 5-7 days. The cost for hammock space is R$330 while a cabin costs R$414 per person (two sharing). Meals and drinks are included.
Manaus to Santarém: The down-river journey takes about 30 hours. The cost for hammock space is R$80 while a cabin costs R$700 per person. Meals and drinks are not included.
Manaus to Belém: The down-river journey takes 80 hours with hammock space costing R$220. Meals and drinks are not included.
The captain of my slow boat from Manaus to Santarém.
Fast Boats:
Currently four fast boats a week operate between Manaus and the border town of Tabatinga, completing the1,628 kilometres (1011 miles) journey in 36 hours. Each boat offers comfortable aircraft-style seats, clean bathrooms and all inclusive meals which are served at your seat.
All boats depart from the ‘Terminal Ajato‘ wharf in Manaus as per the following timetable (current at March 2018):
The MV Expresso Madame Cris: Departs Thursday at 06:00 am (R$550 per seat)
The MV Expresso Gloria de Deus III: Departs Friday at 06:00 am (R$600)
The MV Expresso Cidade de Manaquiri: Departs Sunday at 06:00 am (R$600)
The MV Expresso Crystal I: Departs Tuesday at 06:00 am (R$600)
The company previously operated a fast boat from Manaus to Santarém but unfortunately suspended their service, leaving passengers at the mercy of the slow (30 hours) boats.
Seating on the boats is limited so it’s best to book tickets in advance on their website (only available in Portuguese) or from their ticket office at the wharf in Manaus. If booking from the wharf you’ll need to show your passport.
Santarém
Introduction
Located on the southern bank of the Tapajós River,at the point where it meets the Amazon River,Santarém lies approximately at themidway point between Manaus and Belém. This city of 300,000 has a good selection of accommodation, restaurants and a few sights, making it an ideal place for a few days’ stopover on a trip along the Amazon River.
Nearby, the pleasant, relaxed riverside town of Alter do Chão offers stunning beaches, amazing restaurants and lots of charming Pousada’s, making it an ideal destination for some well-earned R&R.
Sightseeing
Within town, there are enough sights to keep you occupied for a day, but the main draw is the riverside town of Alter do Chão, which is 40 km west of Santarém.
Santarém
The historic Catedral Metropolitana de Santarém dominates the main square of Santarém.
Overlooking bustling Praca de Matriz, the elegant, powder-blue, Catedral Metropolitana de SantarémSantarém Metropolitan was consecrated in 1761, on the site of the first permanent building in the city.
A congregation celebrating mass at the Catedral Metropolitana de Santarém.
The church occupies a commanding position in the old town, close to the river, and while it has an opulent exterior, its interior is very simple and unpretentious.
Mercado Modelo (Amazon Fish Market)
Different species of Amazon fish can be seen at the Mercado Modelo in downtown Santerem.
Across the street from the Teatro Municipal Victória, the Mercado Modelo is the main market in town, where you can get up close with the amazingly large fish that call the Amazon river home.
The Mercado Modelo in Santarém is a great place to view the giant species of fish which inhabit the depths of the Amazon river.
If you’re in the mood to cook up a Piranha, the Mercado Modelo is the place to shop.
Museu Dica Frazão
Dica Frazão providing me with a tour of her unique collection in 2014. Sadly, she passed away in 2017.
Located downtown, the Museu Dica Frazão is a small museum, which is attached to the Frazão family home. This museum displays the amazing creations of Dica Frazão who was born in 1920. She makes women’s clothing and fabrics from natural fibres such as grasses and wood pulp. The work is extremely detailed and most very beautiful.
Items on display include a tablecloth made for Pope John Paul II, ornate handbags, elegant robes and much more. The works are intricate and (as told by Dica herself), very time consuming to produce with some items requiring months of work.
On a sad note, Dica Frazão died at the age of 96 in 2017, but the museum continues with a display room of her creations.
Alter do Chão
Flood waters from the wet season inundate the beaches and promenade at Alter do Chão.
Located on the banks of the Tapajós River,a short bus ride southwest of Santarém is the beautiful, historic village of Alter do Chão, which is also known as the “Caribbean in Brazil“.
Famous for it’s many white-sand river beaches (which contrast spectacularly against the dark water of the Tapajós River), Alter do Chão is where the locals flock to for weekend recreation.
The size of the beaches vary depending on the season – I was there during the wet season so many of the beaches had been totally inundated by flood waters.
A short distance offshore, in the middle of the river, is the beautifully named, and simply wonderful Ilha do Amor (Island of Love). You can either swim to the island or hire a kayak for R$5.
The beaches are also popular with stingrays who like to rest on the sandy bottom. They’ll only sting when stepped on, so the local advice is to shuffle your feet when you walk in the water.
Accommodation
There are plenty of accommodation options in downtown Santarém, all a short walk from the riverfront. I stayed at the Pôr do Sol Hotel, which is located outside of the centre – on the road to the airport – and offers modern, spacious, comfortable rooms at a reasonable price.Booking.com currently lists 15 different properties in the city.
With its sandy beaches and relaxed ambiance, Alter do Chão is an ideal place to relax. Booking.com currently list 28 different properties, many of them reasonably priced Pousada’s.
Eating Out
Piranha can be found on many restaurant menus in Santarém.
Lining the Amazon river waterfront in Santarém are a good selection of restaurants. One of my favourites is Restaurante Nossa Casa, where you can sample fresh Amazonian fish such as Tambaqui, Piranha and Pirarucu (also known as Arapaima) – one of the largest freshwater fish in the world.
Piquiatuba – flies to/from Altamira, Belém, Itaituba, Novo Progresso
Boat
A typical Amazon river settlement between Santarém and Belém.
Boats to Macapá (hammock R$140 including meals, 36 hours, 6:00 PM daily) arrive and depart from Praça Tiradentes, which is located one kilometre west of downtown.
Boats to Manaus and Belém arrive and depart from the Docas do Pará, which is 2.5 kilometres west of downtown. Slow boats travelling upriver to Manaus depart from Santarém daily (except Sunday).
Boats to Manaus
The only option to Manaus is a slow boat with one boat leaving each day (except Sunday) at 12:00 pm. The journey upriver takes 48 hours (versus 36 hours for the downriver trip) with hammock class costing R$130 (USD$32) and a cabin costing R$500 (USD$92).
While agents around town will sell you a ticket at an inflated price, its best to purchase your tickets directly at the Docas do Pará.
Boats to Belém
My cabin on the ‘MV Amazonia’, a slow boat which carried me from Santarém to Belém in 48 hours.
The only option to Belém is a slow boat with boats departing from Docas do Pará at 11:00 am most days. Tickets for the 48 hour journey can be purchased at the port and cost R$180 for hammock-class or R$800 for a private cabin.
The crew of the MV Amazonia loading freight into the hold at Santarém.
I travelled in a cabin on the MV Amazonia which was a pleasant but long (48 hours) journey. We departed Santarém many hours late, while we waited for the crew to load freight into the hold by hand.
Loading sacks of coconuts at Monte Alegre.
In the early hours of the morning the next day, we arrived at the small town of Monte Alegre where the boat docked for an hour or so while huge sacks of coconut were loaded into the hold of the boat.
And so it continued for the rest of the journey, stopping at every settlement to pick up freight.
Patience is a virtue on the Amazon River!
Storm clouds over the Amazon river near Belém.
Getting Around
Public Bus
Municipal buses run regularly to all points in Santarém and to Alter do Chão and the airport.
Taxi
Taxis are plentiful in Santarém and can be hailed on the street. If you wish to reserve a taxi to/from the airport, you can contact the Airport Taxi service company on +55 93 35 22 39 36.
Belém
Located one degree south of the Equator, Belém is one of the wettest places on the planet with almost daily storms.
Introduction
With a population of 1.5 million, Belém is the largest city (and capital) of Pará state and the 2nd largest city on the Amazon River, after Manaus. Founded in 1616 on the banks of the Pará River by Portugal, Belém was the first European colony on the Amazon but did not become part of Brazil until 1775.
Most afternoons, the city of Belém is enveloped by fierce tropical storms.
The city blossomed during the rubber boom of the late 19th century and early 20th century when it accounted for nearly 40 per cent of the country’s rubber exports. The city today is an economic hub with a charming old town at it’s core, which is surrounded by a forest of high rise buildings which comprise the modern new town.
Monuments such as the ornate Theatro da Paz were built in Belém using riches from the rubber boom.
Belém, which translates as Bethlehem, is also known as the City of Mango Trees, due to the vast number of Mango trees which line the city streets. If you visit during Mango season, you’ll find the footpaths littered with fallen fruit.
The city is a centre of culture and learning in Northern Brazil and home to the Museu Paraense Emílio Goeldi, a Natural History and Ethnography museum focused on the fauna, flora and cultures of the Amazon Basin – a ‘must see’ for anyone with an interest in anything ‘Amazon‘.
Sightseeing
Ver-o-PesoMarket
Souvenir stalls at the ‘Ver-o-Peso’ market in Belém.
Created in 1688 by the Portuguese who decided to levy a tax on everything entering and leaving Amazonia, the Ver-o-Pesomarket is the main market for Belém and one of its main tourist attractions. The markets name is derived from the fact that the tax collector’s main post was located in a house which was called the “Casa do Haver-o-peso” (“Have-the-Weight House”). It was in this house that goods were weighed then taxed.
Peppers for sale at the ‘Ver-o-Peso’ market in Belém.
Today the market sprawls over 9 acres of prime riverfront land and is divided into different sections selling meat, fish, fruits, arts, crafts and traditional medicines (which includes an Amazonian version of Viagra).
Preparing a fiery pepper sauce at the ‘Ver-o-Peso’ market in Belém.
The Brazil Nut
Brazil nuts on sale at the ‘Ver-o-Peso’ market in Belem.
One of the most popular products offered at the ‘Ver-o-Peso’ market is the ubiquitous Brazil nut, where a kilo of freshly shelled nuts will cost you R$32 (US$10).
Brazil nuts on sale at the ‘Ver-o-Peso’ market for $R32 (USD$10) per kilo.
In German, the Brazil nut is known as the Para nut, being named after the state of Para of which Belém is the capital. In Portuguese, the nut is known as Castanha do Brasil.
Raw Brazil nuts ready for processing at the Ver-o-Peso market in Belem.
Unlike other nuts, the shell of the Brazil nut does not crack open so the nut can be easily removed. Instead, sellers need to use a knife or guillotine to cut the shell away (piece by piece) from each nut, which is very time consuming and labour intensive.
Unlike most nuts, the hard shell of the Brazil nut cannot be cracked open but must be cut from the nut – piece by piece.
Some nut sellers prefer to remove the shell using a knife rather than a guillotine.
Some traders use small guillotines to remove the shell, which is a little faster than a knife.
Seeing the effort involved in removing the shell of the Brazil nut gives you a greater appreciation of each nut.
After spending time watching the difficult shelling process, I now have a new-found appreciation for these special treats.
Estação das Docas
A former dock on the Amazon river, Estação das Docas has been converted into a modern entertainment area with restaurants, cafes and bars.
Estação das Docas – located on the waterfront, next to Ver-o-Peso market, this former dock and warehouse complex has been transformed into an eating and entertainment space. The main draw is the excellent Cervejaria Amazon – a craft beer brewery (for more on this, please refer to the Eating Out section below).
Forte do Presépio
The Portuguese-built, Forte do Presépio, overlooks the Amazon river in historic Belém.
Located on the riverfront, a short walk from Ver-o-Peso market, Forte do Presépio was built by the Portuguese in the 17th century when the city was founded. Today you can visit a small museum and view the cannons lined up along the river.
In the area surrounding the fort are other historical buildings such as Santo Alexandre Church, which has been converted into a Museum of Sacred Art.
Also nearby is therefinedand elegant Casa das Onze Janelas (House of Eleven Windows), which was originally built as a residence for a wealthy sugar plantation owner and today houses the Belém Museum of Contemporary Art.
Belém Cathedral
The imposing interior of Belém Cathedral.
Across the road from the fort is the imposing Belém Cathedral (also known as Our Lady of Grace Cathedral) which has neoclassical and baroque influences. Constructed in 1748, the church is the oldest in the city.
Theatro da Paz
The imposing exterior of Theatro da Paz in Belém.
Like the Opera House in Manaus, theTheatro da Paz (Peace Theatre) in Belém was built during the golden age of the rubber boom in the neoclassical style. Overlooking Praça da República (Republic Square), the theatre is open daily for tours which are interesting and informative. Reasonably priced concerts are conducted most evening.
Paraense Emilio Goeldi Museum
Located away from the centre of town, the Paraense Emilio Goeldi Museum is a research institute and museum dedicated to studying and cataloguing the fauna, flora and cultures of the Amazon basin. Originally named the Pará Museum of Natural History and Ethnography, and was later named in honour of Swiss naturalist Émil August Goeldi who reorganized the institution and was its director from 1894 to 1905. The museum is set among lush, tropical gardens and usually features exhibits focused on the indigenous tribes of the Amazon. This is a must-see for anyone interested in the Amazon region.
Mosqueiro Island
Located 67 kilometres north of downtown Belém (near to the Atlantic ocean), the river island of Mosqueiro offers some of the best sandy beaches in the region – 17 kilometres of them. Regular taxis and buses connect Belém and the island, which is especially busy on weekends.
Accommodation
My deluxe, reasonably priced, room at the Golden Tulip Hotel in Belém.
From historical, old town guest houses to modern, high rise hotels, Belém offers a good selection of accommodation for all budgets. One of my favourite hotels is the Radisson, which offers spacious, modern rooms, often at discounted prices. The hotel is located on Avenida Bras de Aguiar, close to many fine restaurants, bars and cafés.
Also nearby is the Golden Tulip Hotel which offers a rooftop pool and deluxe rooms. Booking.com currently list 62 properties in the city.
Eating Out
The Cervejaria Amazon in Belém is the only craft brewery on the Amazon River.
Located on the banks of the Pará River, the Estação das Docas is a former dock/ warehouse complex which has been converted into a dining, shopping and entertainment space.
The most important tenant (and by far the largest) is the Cervejaria Amazon, the only craft brewery on the Amazon River. Beers are brewed using local Amazonian fruits such as Taperebá, Bacuri, Açaí and Cupuaçu.
Craft beer range from Cervejaria Amazon Beer in Belém.
Whatever you’re in the mood for, you’ll find it in the streets around Avenida Bras de Aguiar.This is also a nice neighbourhood in which to base yourself with a good selection of accommodation options (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section above).
Avianca Brazil – flies to/ from Brasília, São Paulo-Guarulhos
Azul BrazilianAirlines – flies to/ from Altamira, Belo Horizonte-Confins, Campinas, Carajás, Cayenne, Fort Lauderdale, Cuiabá, Fortaleza, Imperatriz, Macapá, Manaus, Marabá, Palmas, Porto de Trombetas, Recife, Rio de Janeiro-Santos Dumont, Salvador da Bahia, Santarém, São Luís, São Paulo-Guarulhos, Tucuruí
Gol Airlines – flies to/ from Brasília, Cruzeiro do Sul, Fortaleza, Macapá, Manaus, Marabá, Paramaribo-Zanderij, Porto Velho, Recife, Rio Branco, Rio de Janeiro-Galeão, Salvador da Bahia, Santarém, São Luís, São Paulo-Congonhas, São Paulo-Guarulhos
LATAM Brasil – flies to/ from Brasília, Curitiba, Fortaleza, Macapá, Manaus, Marabá, Miami, Rio de Janeiro-Galeão, Santarém, São Paulo-Guarulhos
A moonlit Amazon River as seen from my boat as we slowly approached Belém.
Belém is a major transport hub for Amazon River traffic with regular boats departing from its docks heading upriver to all ports including Santarém & Manaus. Heading in the opposite direction – regular boats make the 24-hour crossing of the mouth of the Amazon River to the northern city of Macapá, while daily ferries connect the city with nearbyMarajó Island.
Santarém
The glow of bustling Belém lights up the sky as I approach on my slow boat from Santerem – the end of a 48 hour journey.
Slow boats for Santarém (72 hours) depart Belém from Terminal Hidroviário 2 days a week – Wednesday and Friday. Tickets can be purchased directly from the company at the terminal and cost R$130 for hammock class or ?? for cabin class. Food is available for purchase with breakfast typically costing R$5 and a lunch and dinner buffet costing R$
Macapá
On-board the M/V Sao Francisco de Paula leaving Belém for Macapá, a journey of 24 hours.
Slow boats travel twice a week from Belém to Macapá, departing Belém at 10:00 am every Wednesday and Saturday. The 482 kilometre (300 mile) journey across the mouth of the Amazon river (the largest river mouth in the world) takes 24 hours with boats arriving in the Macapá port suburb of Santana.
The captain of the M/V Sao Francisco de Paula steering a course to Macapá.
I travelled on the M/VSao Francisco de Paula, paying R$225 for a berth in a private cabin – hammock space is available for R$120. Food and drinks are available on board.
The Brazilians love to party so many of the Amazon river boats, including the M/V Sao Francisco de Paula, include live entertainment.
Açaí Berries
Açaí merchants loading their haul onto the Sao Francisco de Paula ready for transportation from the remote jungle to Macapá.
During our trip from Belém to Macapá, we stopped mid-river, in the middle of nowhere, and were quickly surrounded by small boats which were filled to the brim with baskets of freshly picked Açaí berries, an Amazonian super-fruit which has become hugely popular around the world.
The Sao Francisco de Paula provides an important link to market for these Açaí merchants who live in the middle of the jungle.
The crews on these boats then proceeded to load our boat with dozens of large baskets filled with Açaí berries which were destined for a processing plant in Macapá.
Açaí being loaded (mid-river) onto our boat for transportation from the middle of the jungle to Macapá.
This bounty of berries was the harvest from several indigenous communities and our boat was the only means of transporting their product out of the jungle.
A whole section of the M/V Sao Francisco de Paula was reserved for Açaí transportation.
The Açaí berry is considered a super-fruit which is loaded with a high level of anti-oxidants. Along with fish and cassava, Açaí is a key part of the diet of communities living along the Amazon River where the skinny Açaí palms are commonly found.
Açaí berries are exported all over the world from the Amazon region.
The berries are harvested twice a year, with the first harvest between January and June, while the other is between August and December. My visit coincided with the 2nd harvest, which is the larger and more important.
After timber exports, Açaí berries are the 2nd most valuable export item for the Amazon region.
Although Brazil is famous for its production of Açaí , the species is native to Brazil, Ecuador, Venezuela, Colombia, Guyana, French Guiana, Suriname and Trinidad and Tobago where it grows in swamps and floodplains.
Açaí palms in the grounds of the Casarão da Amazônia hotel on Marajó Island.
Açaí palms, such as the ones pictured here in the garden of the Casarão da Amazônia hotel on Marajó Island, are tall, slender trees growing to more than 25 m (82 ft) in height.
Marajó Island
The captain of our ferry from Marajó Island to Belém, with the usual afternoon storm raging outside.
Passenger ferries leave Belém daily from the Terminal Hidroviário (Pier 9), arriving approximately 3.5 hours later in the port of Camará. Please refer to the Marajo Island section for more details.
The daily afternoon storm rages over Belém as we return from Marajó Island.
Bus
Unlike most other cities along the Amazon River, Belém is connected to the main Brazilian road network. Frequent buses depart from the large Terminal Rodoviario de Belem (website only available in Portuguese) to a number of major cities in Brazil as well as other cities and smaller towns in Pará.
You can check timetables, costs and current seat availability online using the Busca Onibus website.
Getting Around
Road
Taxi’s in Belém are plentiful and relatively inexpensive for short distances.
There are many local buses travelling all over the city, although it can be difficult for non-Portuguese speakers to figure out the timetables and routes. Best to take a taxi or walk.
Marajó Island
The view from atop my Buffalo at São Jerônimo Farm, Marajó Island.
Introduction
With a population of 200,000 living on an island the size of Switzerland in the mouth of the Amazon River, sparsely populated Marajó Island remains a world apart.
Almost all of the island is undeveloped, a huge virgin wetland which is the exclusive playground for tens of thousands of birds.
A Pileated Woodpecker on Marajó Island.
The tiny human population clings to a small strip of the eastern shore, living in the towns of Joanes, Salvaterra and Soure (the quiet, relaxed ‘capital’ of Marajó).
The streets of Soure are very quiet as there are few cars on the island but it’s here you’ll find the best accommodation and dining options.
A boardwalk provides access to the mangrove swamp at São Jerônimo Farm, Marajó Island.
Sightseeing
There are few man-made sights on the island but plenty of stunning natural sights. A wonderful introduction to the beauty of the island is offered by the owners of the Fazenda São Jerônimoe (São Jerônimo Farm), which is located 3 kilometres north of Soure on the road to Praia do Pesqueiro.
Marajó Island features miles of deserted, sandy beaches, including Praia do Pesqueiro.
During a two hour tour, you get to ride a buffalo (the buffalo population on the island out-numbers the human population), walk on an elevated boardwalk through a mangrove, stroll along a deserted sandy beach, then return to the farm via a boat ride through the mangrove, where you can spot many different birds, including Scarlet Ibis.
Accommodation
An old boat serves as a curb-side garden outside the Casarão da Amazônia hotel in Soure, the sleepy capital of Marajó Island.
Booking.com lists 12 properties on Marajó Island, most of which line the quiet (traffic-free) streets of Soure.While on the island, I stayed at (and would recommend) Casarão da Amazônia which is set in a renovated, brightly painted, colonial mansion (built in 1896) and is a 3-minute walk from the centre of Soure.
Update 15/11/2020: Due to the Covid pandemic, the Casarão da Amazônia is closed until 30/06/2021.
The hotel provides breakfast and features a swimming pool, spacious, charming rooms and a beautiful garden with various (labelled) local fruit trees and Açaí palms.
The Casarão da Amazônia hotel is housed in a renovated colonial-era mansion.
Eating
On an island where Buffalo are so numerous, it should come as no surprise that there are many opportunities to sample this lean (much healthier than fatty beef) and tasty meat. There are numerous restaurants in downtown Soure offering Buffalo meals and local fish dishes.
Getting There
Air
There is one small (non-commercial) airport in Soure. Air taxis can apparently be chartered from Belém.
Boat
Boats at Camará port, the main gateway to Marajó Island.
The only real way of getting to Marajo is via the daily passenger ferries which depart Belém from the Terminal Hidroviário Pier 9, arriving 3.5 hours later at Foz do Rio Camará – Terminal Hidroviário.
Mini buses transfer passengers from Camará port to Soure (35 kilometres/ 1.5 hours), via the smaller town of Savaterra, which lies on the opposite bank of the Paracauari River.
Timetable Belém/ Marajó:
Monday to Saturday: 6.30 and 14.30
Sunday: 10.00
Timetable Marajó/ Belém :
Monday to Saturday: 6.30 and 15.00
Sunday: 15.00
Tickets cost R$20,00 in economy class or R$35,00 in 1st class.
Returning to Belém on the ferry from Marajó Island.
Getting Around
The streets of Soure are eerily quiet due to an absence of cars on Marajó Island.
Road
Mini Buses connect the two towns of Soure and Salvaterra with Camará port.
Macapá
View of the Amazon River from Fortaleza de São José de Macapá.
Introduction
It’s actually easier to reach Macapá from neighbouring French Guiana than from the rest of Brazil, thanks to a highway that connects the city with Cayenne, the capital.
Canine-class on the boat from Belém to Macapá.
Macapá is strategically located on the northern channel of the Amazon River, near its mouth on the Atlantic ocean. At 400 kilometres (250 miles) across, the mouth is the widest in the world and effectively isolates Macapá from the rest of Brazil. The city has no land connections to other parts of Brazil, except other cities in Amapá state and French Guiana.
A boat cruising on the wide mouth of the Amazon River near Macapá.
I arrived in the capital of Amapá stateafter spending a leisurely 24-hours crossing the mouth of the river on a slow boat from Belém (see the ‘Getting There – Boat‘ section below for details on the journey). During the colonial period the state was called Portuguese Guiana and so it was fitting that Macapá should serve as the launch pad for my foray into the other Guiana’s.
Macapá (pop: 500,000) is a relaxed, laid-back capital and, while not brimming with attractions, is a pleasant enough place to spend time recuperating between journey’s. I spent two days in the city before boarding a night bus to Oiapoque on the French Guiana border.
Sightseeing
Fortalzeza de Sao Jose de Macapá
The Portuguese-built Fortalzeza de Sao Jose de Macapá stands at the mouth of the Amazon river at Macapá.
The main attraction in Macapá is the sprawling ruin of the fort – Fortalzeza de Sao Jose de Macapá. The fort was built at the mouth of the Amazon by the Portuguese from 1764 to 1782 as a defence against the French who took control of what is now French Guiana in 1677. Entrance to the fort is free and while all information is in Portuguese, the sweeping views of the Amazon river require no translation.
Marco ZeroMonument
The Marco Zero monument in Macapa indicates the Equatorial line.
Located 6 kilometres from downtown on Avenue Equatorial, the Marco Zeromonument was built to mark the position of the equator, which cuts through the city. Where else can you stand on the equator? Or stand in both hemispheres? Or hop/ skip over the equator?
The 30-metre tall tower has a large open circle at its top. Twice a year, at the spring and autumn equinoxes, the sun aligns with that circle, focusing a line of sunlight along the equator.
Accommodation
Macapá offers a good selection of accommodation catering to all budgets from hostels to 4-star hotels. While in town, I stayed at the 4-star Hotel Do Forte, which is one of the better hotels in town. Located downtown, this comfortable, clean and modern hotel is a short walk from restaurants, bars and attractions such as the fort and the river. You can book properties usingbooking.com
Eating Out
Sleepy Macapá offers a surprisingly good number of restaurants with the standout being the Amazonas Peixaria. Overlooking the Amazon river, this is a good place to eat local fish and sample Amazonian cuisine.
Getting There/ Away
Air
A slow boat from Belém to Macapá takes 24 hours, while a flight takes just 55 minutes (but is nowhere near as adventurous). Not surprisingly, many people choose to fly to Macapá, which is served by Alberto Alcolumbre International Airport(located 3 kilometres north-west of downtown).
The following airlines provide regular flights:
LATAM Brasil – flies four times a week to/from Belém & Brasília
Gol Airlines – flies twice a week to/from Belém & Brasília
Please refer to the Belém section for details on boat travel to Macapá.
The very crowded ‘hammock-class’ on the M/V Sao Francisco de Paula which connects Macapá and Belém.
From Macapá:
The M/VSao Francisco de Paula, returns to Belém from Macapá (Santana) twice a week, completing the journey in 24 hours.
Two fellow passengers, who loved posing for my camera, on the boat from Belém to Macapá.
Road
The road network in Amapá state is disconnected from the rest of Brazil, so long distance bus services are limited to within Amapá state.
The most useful connection for travellers are the two nightly Amazontur buses which make the 600-kilometre journey north along route BR156 to the border town of Oiapoque.
Buses depart from Macapá bus station at 17:00 and 18:00, arriving at the very quiet (and normally shut) Oiapoque bus station around dawn.
Early morning at Oiapoque bus station which was closed when I arrived at 5 am.
My bus seemed to cover the distance between Macapá and Oiapoque in record time, arriving at 5:00 am, where I was deposited at the very tiny, and closed, Oiapoque bus station.
It was great to have arrived early but the Brazilian immigration office wouldn’t open until 8:00 am, so I had no option but to sleep on a bench at the bus station until the border opened.
The immigration office is located a short walk from the river but requires a taxi ride from the bus station.
Built at a cost of US$50 million, the very grand Oiapoque bridge connects Brazil and French Guiana – the only land connection throughout the Guiana’s.
Crossing from Brazil to French Guiana
Oiapoque, AP, 68980-000, Brazil
The Brazilian border town of Oiapoque is located on the banks of the Oyapok river, slightly upstream from the town of St. Georges in neighbouring French Guiana (click to read my French Guiana Travel Guide).
The border crossing over the Oyapok river is the only one in the Guiana’s which can be made via a bridge, but only if you are travelling in a vehicle.
This is where Brazil meets the European Union!
At the time of my visit in 2015, the bridge hadn’t been opened so I took a boat across the river, a journey of just 10 minutes, in which time I travelled from Brazil across to the European Union! It was strange to disembark in the sleepy town of St. Georges to see the French and EU flags fluttering in the wind.
Breakfast tip:
If you arrive at the border in the morning, it’s best to take breakfast in St. Georges where you’ll find French-style cafés, pâtisseries and boulangeries serving crusty baguettes and fluffy omelettes. So much better than the standard Brazilian breakfast of chocolate cake.
The Oiapoque Bridge
The Oiapoque bridge is a grand construction project which was intended to be a key plank in a highway connecting Cayenne and Macapá. An idea conceived between two presidents without any thought given to the practicalities on the ground. Consequently, the whole project has been lambasted as a US$50 million white elephant!
The bridge was completed in 2011 but, due to politics between Brazil and France, was not opened until March of 2017.
When it was opened, the bridge was only open to vehicular traffic of which there is very little since the French government insists on Brazilian vehicles paying a substantial amount for vehicle insurance.
Most people cross the border on foot, in which case they still use the boats which provide a direct connection between downtown Oiapoque and downtown St. Georges.
The bridge forms the only land connection between Brazil and France – or Brazil and the European Union and is the only bridge-crossing on any of the borders in the Guianas.
An early morning crossing on the Oyapok River from Brazil to French Guiana.
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Welcome to the taste2travel Amazon River Travel Guide – Part 1!
Forward
A 4,334 kilometre (2,693 mile) meander along the Amazon River from Iquitos, Peru to the Atlantic Ocean in Brazil is an epic voyage and, as such, this travel guide was always going to be monumental in size.
To make the guide more manageable, I have split it into two parts:
Amazon River Travel Guide – Part 1: contains sections on History, Currency, Visa Requirements, Boat Travel and details on destinations in Peru (Iquitos/ Santa Rosa) and Colombia (Leticia).
Amazon River Travel Guide – Part 2: contains details on destinations in Brazil – Tabatinga, Manaus, Santarém, Belém, Marajó Island and Macapá.
Enjoy!
Exploring the Amazon river around Iquitos, Peru.
Introduction
Travelling for thousands of kilometres by boat along the Amazon River is one of the more interesting journeys I’ve made during my travel career. In total, I spent 150 hours on six different journeys, traveling by both fast and slow boat from Iquitos in Peru across the South American continent to the Atlantic Ocean – a distance of 4,334 kilometres.
Along the way I made stops in a number of riverside towns and cities, including the Colombian outpost of Leticia (the only Colombia town on the river), and the Brazilian cities of Tabatinga, Manaus, Santarém and Belém.
From Belém, I travelled to the sparsely populated island of Marajó – an island the size of Switzerland which is anchored in the mouth of the Amazon River.
Storm clouds over the Amazon River near Belém.
From Marajó, I returned to Belém then joined my final boat for the 24-hour journey across the mouth of the Amazon River to the city of Macapá. From Macapá I then embarked on a 3,000 kilometre meander back to Manaus via French Guiana, Suriname, Guyana and Venezuela. For details on this journey, please refer to my other post – Macapá to Manaus via the Guiana’s.
My journey down the Amazon River was an incredible journey and one I will not forget any time soon! If you ever have the inclination to make such a journey I would encourage you to do so – at least once in your life!
Amazon Facts
Known as the “River Sea”, the Amazon River inundates riverside villages, such as Santa Luzia, during the annual wet season.
Some interesting Amazon facts:
With an average discharge of about 209,000 cubic metres per second (7,400,000 cu ft/s), the Amazon is the largest river by discharge volume of water in the world.The annual discharge volume is greater than the next seven largest rivers combined.
The Amazon discharges nearly 25% of all freshwater into the oceans.
At approximately 6,400 kilometres (4,000 miles) in length, the Amazon is the world’s second longest river.
In places, the river has a depth of 70 metres (250 feet).
The Amazon is known as the ‘river sea‘ and during the wet season, it can measure over 190 kilometres (120 miles) in width.
The mouth of the river is the widest in the world, measuring 325 kilometres (202 miles) across.
The largest city along the Amazon River is Manaus. Located in Brazil it is home to over 1.7 million people.
There are no bridges that cross the Amazon, mostly because there is no need since the river runs through rainforests rather than big cities.
There are over 3000 known species of fish that live in the Amazon River, including the Piranha.
A total of 1,294 birds, 427 mammals, 428 amphibians and 378 reptiles have been scientifically classified in the Amazon Rainforest.
The diversity of plants in the Amazon is the highest of anywhere on earth. There have been more than 40,000 plant species recorded that include bananas, mangoes, guava, yams, nuts and spices.
Location
Manaus, State of Amazonas, Brazil
Belém, State of Pará, Brazil
Santarém, State of Pará, Brazil
Leticia, Amazonas, Colombia
Leticia, Iquitos, Peru
Iquitos, Peru
The Amazon River, begins life high in the Andes Mountains of Peru, just 160 kilometres (100 miles) from the Pacific Ocean. From its source, the river meanders eastward across the South American continent for 6,400 kilometres (4,000 miles) until it enters the Atlantic Ocean east of Belém, Brazil.
The river and its many tributaries drain the Amazon Basin, which is the largest drainage basin in the world at approximately 7,050,000 square kilometres (2,720,000 sq miles). If the basin was a country, it would be the ninth largest in the world. Brazil accounts for 60% of the total basin area, with Peru comprising approximately 13% and the remainder spread between Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela, Bolivia, Suriname, French Guiana andGuyana.
History
A Portuguese cannon overlooks the Amazon river from Presepio Fort in Belem, Brazil.
Pre-Columbian Era
Archaeological finds, including pottery fragments and stone points, indicate that Native Indian tribes have inhabited the Amazon River area for at least 10,000-11,000 years.
Evidence indicates that the region was home to complex and large-scale indigenous societies, who developed large towns and cities. Archaeologists estimate that by the time the Spanish conquistador, Francisco De Orellana, travelled down the Amazon in 1541, more than 3 million indigenous people lived around the river.
European Era
A map showing Francisco de Orellana’s Amazon Voyage. Source: Wikipedia.
The first European to fully explore the Amazon River was the Spanish explorer and conquistador, Francisco De Orellana.Born in Trujillo (Spain), Orellana never intended to explore the river.
Orellana initially served as a lieutenant on a larger expedition led from Quito (Ecuador) by his close friend and relative, Gonzalo Pizarro. As the newly appointed Governor of Quito, Pizarro organised an expedition to explore the lowlands of Ecuador where he believed he might find the lost city of gold – El Dorado.
While camped on the banks of the Coca River, a chronic food shortage prompted Pizarro to order Orellana to follow the river to it’s end and to gather food supplies and return as soon as possible. Upon reaching the end of the river (where it joins the Napo River), Orellana found a relatively friendly native village where he was given some food. Orellana intended to return to Pizarro with the food, but his men, not wishing to return upriver to their starved comrades, threatened him with a mutiny if he tried to force them to go.
Orellana and his men continued down the Napo River, eventually reaching the Amazon River on the 11th of February 1542. They sailed the length of the Amazon, reaching the Atlantic Ocean on the 26th of August 1542.Orellana eventually returned to Spain via Venezuela.
As they made their way along the river, Orellana and his men heard stories of fierce warrior women and occasionally encountered such women fighting alongside their men. Orellana named the River ‘Amazon‘ after the mythological Amazons– a kingdom of fierce warrior-women, who had fired European imaginations since the days of antiquity.
The opulent Teatro de Paz (Theatre of Peace) in Belem was built during the colonial era using proceeds from the Rubber boom.
Although a complete commercial failure, this accidental journey of exploration provided a great deal of information on the Amazon basin and opened up the interior of South America for exploration. Within a century, European settlers had arrived in search of gold and other riches. The Spanish based their settlements on the Pacific and the Portuguese on the Atlantic, while the French, Dutch, and English built settlements in the Guyana region.
One of the biggest booms to occur in the Amazon during the colonial period involved the rubber tree, or Para rubber. Native to the Amazon, rubber had been used by indigenous tribes for thousands of years, but it wasn’t until Charles Goodyear invented the process of vulcanisation that demand for this raw material skyrocketed, especially from automobile manufacturers.
As a result of the boom, Manaus grew into a booming and opulent metropolis. It was during this epoch that the grand Manaus Opera House was constructed in Manaus and the Teatro de Paz constructed in Belem. The rubber boom however came at a price with the enslavement and near genocide of numerous groups of indigenous peoples.
Present Day
Despite government efforts to build a paved road through the Amazon Basin, the river remains the only means of transporting goods to isolated cities.
Since colonial times, the remote, and mostly impenetrable, Amazon basin has remained largely undeveloped by agriculture and continues to be occupied by indigenous people.
During the 20th century, the Brazilian government tried to open the region to development by constructing the Trans-Amazonian Highway (BR-230) which was intended to link the coastal city of João Pessoa with the Amazon town of Benjamin Constant. Funding difficulties meant the road could never be completed. The road currently ends in the town of Labrea (south of Manaus) but most of the road remains unpaved and impassable during the wet season.
One negative impact resulting from the construction of the road has been an increase in deforestation. Logging companies can now access areas which were previously inaccessible and the road makes it easier to transport timber.
Currencies
The official currency of Brazil – Brazilian Reals.
The following three currencies are used in this report:
The Brazilian Real (R$) is the official currency of Brazil. Click here to view the current exchange rate against USD$1.
The Colombian Peso (P) is the official currency of Colombia. Click here to view the current exchange rate against USD$1.
The Peruvian Sol (S/)is the official currency of Peru. Click here to view the current exchange rate against USD$1.
Voyages
Following is a summary of the six different voyages I made along the river.
Voyage 1 – Iquitos (Peru) to Leticia (Colombia) via Santa Rosa (Peru)
Distance: 486 kilometres/ 302 miles Duration: ~ 13 hours Transport Operator: Golfinho(fast boat) Cost: 200 Peruvian Soles (US$70)
Voyage 2 – Tabatinga (Brazil) to Manaus
Distance: 1,628 kilometres/ 1011 miles Duration: ~ 30 hours TransportOperator: Lancha Glória De Deus lll(fast boat) Cost: R$550 – R$600
Voyage 3 – Manaus to Santarém
Distance: 772 kilometres/ 480 miles Duration: ~ 30 hours TransportOperator: Slow Boat Cost: I paid R$700 for a berth in a cabin. Hammock space is available for R$80. Food and drinks are available for purchase.
Voyage 4 – Santarém to Belém
Distance: 792 kilometres/ 492 miles Duration: ~ 48 hours TransportOperator: MV Amazonia (slow boat) Cost: I paid R$700 for a berth in a cabin. Hammock space is available for R$200
Voyage 5 – Belém to Marajó Island (Return)
Distance: 174 kilometres/ 108 miles Duration: ~ 3.5 hours (one way) TransportOperator: Ferries depart daily from the Terminal Hidroviário (Pier 9) in downtown Belém. Cost: R$20,00 in economy class; R$35,00 in 1st class
Voyage 6 – Belém to Macapá
Distance: 482 kilometres/ 300 miles Duration: ~ 24 hours Transport Operator: Sao Francisco de Paula (slow boat) Cost: A shared berth cabin costs R$225(per bed) or you can pay R$60 to hang your hammock outside. As with all boats on the Amazon, you’ll need to provide your own hammock and rope to hang it from.
Amazon Boat Travel
Amazon River ‘slow boats’ docked in Manaus.
It’s important to point out that the boats that travel along the Amazon are not meant for tourists – they are the default mode of transportation for goods and people from place A to place B.
The Amazon River is known as the ‘river sea‘ and for good reason – for most of its course, the river is incredibly wide and boats tend to travel down the centre of it, far from the nearest shore.
If you dream of sitting on the deck of a boat, observing passing wildlife and villages, then you need to find a smaller river upon which to travel.
However, most towns along the river (always located near the confluence of a tributary river) provide the opportunity to venture into the interior on smaller rivers where you can spot wildlife and have contact with local villagers.
The daily storm clouds gather over the Amazon River near Belem.
There are two types of boats which travel along the river, fast boats and slow boats. While slow boats provide transportation along the entire length of the river, fast boats only operate on a couple of sections of the river. Slow boats are cheaper and provide both hammock and cabin space while fast boats provide seating only.
View from my fast boat traveling from Tabatinga to Manaus.
Fast Boats
Fast Boats are a great way of covering vast distances in a shorter space of time, unfortunately they were only available on two of my journeys – between Iquitos and Santa Rosa in Peru and between Tabatinga and Manaus in Brazil. Whereas a slow boat covers the 1,628 kilometre (1011 mile) journey from Tabatinga to Manaus in four days, a fast boat completes the journey in 30 hours.
The Brazilians, such as this girl on the Belem to Macapa slow boat, loved posing for photos.
Slow Boats
Slow boats are not built for comfort – they are noisy, dirty and don’t offer a lot of service. Their primary function is the transportation of goods along the river. Often you will spend hours in a remote port while goods are loaded (always by hand) on and off the boat.
Slow boats provide a crucial lifeline to remote communities who have no other connection to the outside world. Accommodation options on the slow boats include private cabins or communal hammock space.
The very crowded ‘hammock-class’, on my slow boat from Belem to Macapa.
As I travel with expensive camera equipment, I always paid extra for a berth in a lockable cabin and I normally had a cabin to myself. I appreciated that I could always lock my valuables in my cabin while I was showering or using the toilet.
The Brazilians are generally friendly, warm and kind. It’s a pleasure spending time with them.
Those who travel in hammock class have nowhere secure to store valuables. You will also need to purchase your hammock (R$110) and some ropeto hang it from prior to boarding your vessel. There are always vendors selling hammocks at the docks and if you’re unsure of how to hang a hammock, the locals will be more than willing to help you.
Hammock-class on the M/V Sao Francisco de Paula which connects Belem to Macapa.
Meals are offered on-board with breakfast normally costing R$5 and a lunch/dinner buffet costing R$10. The buffet’s almost always include rice, pasta, salad and some meat option. The one essential accompaniment to all meals served along the Amazon River is Farofa – a toasted cassava flour mixture.
Farofa
The staple of Amazonian cuisine, Farofa, being preparing at the ‘Ver-O-Peso’ market in Belem.
Farofais a ubiquitous part of meals served in the Amazon region. Made by toasting cassava flour with butter, salt, garlic, onions, sausage and other savoury ingredients, Farofa has a salty/ smoky taste and is the condiment of choice for Brazilians at mealtimes.
Visa Requirements
A riverside border checkpoint in Leticia, Colombia.
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Peru provides visa-free access for a period of 183 days to 99 different nationalities. You can check your requirements here.
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Colombia provides visa-free access for a period of 90 days to 98 different nationalities. You can check your requirements here.
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Brazil provides visa-free access for a period of 90 days to 93 different nationalities, however this does not include Australian, Canadian or United States passport holders, who must apply for a visa in advance.
A new e-visa process is now available for holders of Australian, Canadian, Japanese and United States passports. The processing time for the e-visa is 5 days, with the visa valid for multiple visits (not exceeding 90 days per year) over a two year period.
More information, including a link to the online form, can be found here:
Brazilian immigration does not issue visas upon arrival so if you find yourself in Leticia (without a visa) you will need to apply for one from the Brazilian vice-consulate who will require ten days to process your application. You can check your requirements here.
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Destinations
During my voyage, I traveled from Iquitos to Leticia, then Tabatinga, Manaus, Santarém, Belém, Marajó Island then Macapá. Information for Iquitos and Leticia is provided below, while information on the other destinations is provided in Part 2 of the guide.
Iquitos (Peru)
A rainbow forms over the Amazon river at Iquitos.
Introduction
Iquitos is one of the more interesting destinations on the Amazon River, offering a vast selection of activities not found elsewhere in Peru, most of them focused on the Amazon River and the surrounding rainforest.
With a population of 437,000 – Iquitos is considered the largest city in the world unreachable by road and because of this motorcycles and moto-taxis dominate the roads.
The daily afternoon downpour in steamy Iquitos.
Largely cut-off from the outside world, the only way to reach Iquitos is by boat or plane (see the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details).
Macaws are a common sight in Iquitos.
Besides the Amazon attractions, Iquitos attracts a lot of travelers who come to learn about, and experience, Ayahuasca, a powerful psychedelic, plant-based brew that is gaining increasing popularity worldwide.
If you’re arriving from anywhere else in Peru, you can’t help but notice that Iquitos has a completely different feel to it. From it’s tropical, year-round climate to it’s diverse population (including lots of local indigenous Indians), to its remote location which gives it the air of a frontier town.
I’ve made two separate trips to the city and would happily return for a third. There is something charming and magical in the moist, jungle air which hangs over Iquitos.
Sightseeing
The numerous waterways around Iquitos are full of attractions.
There are plenty of sights in and outside the city, including:
Casa de Fierro (The Iron House)
The iconic Casa de Fierro (Iron House), which Gustav Eiffel designed, in downtown Iquitos.
Located on the main square (Plaza de Armas) and designed by Gustav Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame) – this is one of the more quirky sights in Iquitos.
Said to be the first pre-fabricated house installed in South America, the building was purchased at the International Exposition of Paris in 1889 by a local rubber baron who then had it shipped in pieces to Iquitos.
The many metal sheets, which comprise the walls, were apparently carried by hundreds of men through the jungle and re-assembled on the main square in 1890.
Amazonian Manatee Orphanage
Located 4.5 kilometres from Iquitos on the Nauta highway is this orphanage, which rescues baby Manatee’s (sea cows), whose mothers have been killed by local hunters. A moto-taxi from downtown will cost about S/15.
Enthusiastic international volunteers will happily show you around the butterfly enclosure, where you learn about the life cycle of these fascinating insects. You are then free to wander around the orphanage to view animals that have been rescued, which includes one impressive Jaguar.
Yagua Indian Village
Indigenous dancers at the Yagua Indian Village.
Something that is normally combined with a visit to the Butterfly farm is a visit to this remote, riverside Indian village.
Handwoven bags for sale at the Yagua Indian Village.
Home to a group of Yagua Indians (there are an estimated 6,000 living in northern Peru and Colombia), the village is undoubtedly a tourism experience (especially the staged dancing), but does offer an opportunity to understand a little more about indigenous Amazonian culture
Accommodation
There are plenty of options in town, including larger hotels, and smaller family-run guest houses. Outside of town, there are a number of jungle eco-lodges which are accessible by boat. Booking.com currently lists 123 properties in the city.
Eating Out
This being Peru, there is no shortage of good food and fine restaurants in Iquitos. One of the joy’s of eating here is being able to sample the amazing and unique Amazonian produce. The best place to gain an understanding of this produce is the sprawling Belen Market, thelargest in the Peruvian Amazon.
Camu Camu is an Amazonian super fruit and tastes amazing in a Pisco Sour.
One of my favourite Amazonian fruits is Camu Camu, which is considered by health food aficionados as a ‘super fruit’. Famed for its antioxidant properties, proponents claim it’s anti-viral properties can help with cold sores, herpes, shingles, and the common cold. What I do know is that it tastes great in a Pisco Sour.
A different dining experience – Al Frio y Al Fuego floating restaurant in Iquitos.
Of all the restaurant options in town, the most unique has to be Al Frio y Al Fuego. Located on a floating pontoon in the middle of the Amazon River, you access the restaurant via a speedboat which leaves from the restaurant dock in downtown Iquitos.
The menu items are inspired by the Amazon and there’s a pool where you can swim and relax. Best time to come is late in the afternoon as the restaurant affords beautiful sunset views of Iquitos.
One of the many delicious meals served at ‘Al Frio y Al Fuego’ floating restaurant served with camu-camu sauce.
A great place for any meal and a popular meeting place for travelers and local expats is the riverside café – Dawn on the Amazon. Located off the Plaza de Armas, the café offers the best river views, great breakfast, good coffee and Ayahuasca-friendly items.
Getting There/ Away
Air
Iquitos is served by the CoronelFAP Francisco Secada Vignetta International Airport (IATA: IQT), which is located 11 kilometres south-west of downtown. Since the city is not linked to any road network, most visitors arrive by flight.
Both taxis and (three-wheel) moto-taxis can be found outside the arrivals hall with the former charging S/20 into the centre of town and the latter charging S/10.
Transtur connect Iquitos (Peru) to Leticia (Colombia).
Travelling downriver from Iquitos to Leticia / Tabatinga, you have a choice of fast boat (13 hours) or slow boat (about 2.5 days). The latter are cargo boats and as such make frequent stops in small settlements along the river to take on and drop off passengers and cargo.
Boats travel downriver to the tiny Peruvian settlement of Santa Rosa, which is located across the river from Leticia and Tabatinga. Upon arrival in Santa Rosa, you get stamped out of Peru and take a taxi boat across the river to either Leticia or Tabatinga.
Update – This articlein the Peru Telegraph suggests a newer, faster, full-size ferry is now operating from Iquitos to Santa Rosa, covering the distance in 8 hours. If you have taken this boat I would be interested in hearing about your experience.
Fast boat
Two different companies, Transtur & Golfinho, operate fast boats (tickets cost 200 Peruvian Soles – US$70) five days a week from Iquitos to Santa Rosa, covering the 486 kilometre (302 mile) journey in 13 hours. The current timetable is:
Golfinhodeparts from the El Huequito dock on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at 5:00 AM.
Transtur departs from the El Huequito dock on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 5:00 AM.
Boats arrive in the evening in Santa Rosa where you complete Peruvian immigration formalities before crossing the river to either Colombia (Leticia) or Brazil (Tabatinga).
Slow Boat
If you prefer to embark on a more enduring adventure, slow boats depart from Iquitos, reaching Santa Rosa 3 days later. Cabins cost 80 soles, which includes meals.
Puccallpa/ Yurimaguas
Slow boats travel further upriver from Iquitos to the towns of Puccallpa and Yurimaguas, where you can connect to the Peruvian road network.
Getting Around
Boat
Boats are the primary means of transportation around Iquitos.
There are many attractions hidden away in the waterways surrounding Iquitos and the only way of accessing them is via small speedboats which depart from the grimy and chaotic Bellavista Nanay port, which is located three kilometres km (1.5 miles) north of downtown Iquitos at the end of Avenida La Marina.
Road
Despite being cut-off from the rest of Peru, there is still plenty of traffic on the streets of Iquitos. The most ubiquitous vehicle in town is the mototaxi –a three wheel motorcycle with a small, rickshaw-like passenger cabin in the back. Additionally, regular taxis are available too.
A great way to travel around steamy, hot Iquitos is by open-air bus. These charming antiques from a bygone era run on fixed routes, including to the airport.
Tres Fronteras
A painting of the ‘Tres Fronteras’ (Three Frontiers) region, which encompasses the point on the Amazon river where Colombia, Peru and Brazil converge.
The Tres Fronteras (Three Borders) region is named for the tri-point where the borders of Brazil, Peru, and Colombia meet. While you are in the area, you are free to move unrestricted without visiting immigration each time but should always carry your passport.
When you are departing a country or moving onto the next country, you need to visit the respective immigration office to be processed.
Santa Rosa (Peru)
Introduction
There is nothing much to be said about tiny Santa Rosa de Yavarí(pop: 1,000) – a muddy, damp, mosquito infested place, the town serves as a checkpoint and crossing point for the Brazil-Peru and the Brazil-Colombia borders. The only thing to do here is get your passport stamped and move on.
Formalities
The Peruvian Immigration office is next to the dock and is open during day-light hours. If you’re arriving from Iquitos, you should get your exit stamp prior to taking a boat across the river to Leticia or Tabatinga.
If you’re entering Peru you need to ensure you have your entry stamp prior to boarding the boat to Iquitos. If you’re taking the 4:00 am fast boat to Iquitos, you’ll need to get your Peruvian entry stamp the day before departure as the immigration office will be closed at the time of your departure and you will not be allowed on the boat without a Peruvian entry stamp.
Accommodation
There are a few options in Santa Rosa but much better accommodation options are available across the river in Leticia. The only reason you might stay here is if you’re taking the early morning fast boat to Iquitos which departs at 4 AM.
Getting There/ Away
Boat
Santa Rosa is connected to Iquitos by fast and slow boats. The following information is for upriver travel, for downriver travel – please refer to the Iquitos section.
Fast Boats to Iquitos:
Two different companies (Transtur & Golfinho), operate daily (except Monday) fast boats from Santa Rosa to Iquitos, covering the 486 kilometre (302 mile) journey in 13 hours. Tickets cost 200 Peruvian Soles (US$70) with the boats departing Santa Rosa at 4:00 AM. If you’re staying in Tabatinga or Leticia you’ll need to take a boat across to Santa Rosa at 3:00 AM.
I made the journey downriver with Transporte Golfinho who have departures for Iquitos three times a week (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday). Tickets can be purchased from their office in Tabatinga:
Address: Av. Marechal Mallet N° 306 E-mail: jrcbra@hotmail.com
Slow Boats to Iquitos:
Slow boats crawl up the river to Iquitos, arriving 4 days later.
Getting Around
Boat
From Santa Rosa, water taxis make the 10 minute crossing to Leticia / Tabatinga for 2 Peruvian Soles.
Leticia (Colombia)
Introduction
With a population of 37,000, charming Leticia is Colombia’s southern-most town and the only Colombian town on the Amazon River. There are few sights in Leticia, however with it’s tree lined streets and leafy plaza’s, the town has a relaxed ambiance and is a pleasant place to spend time between boat journeys. It’s also an ideal launchpad for Eco-tourism activities in the surrounding rainforest, where you’ll find various Eco-lodges.
The Colombians are very hospitality-savvy, so it’s no surprise that Leticia is the place to stay when in the Tres Fronteras region. You’ll find lots of decent accommodation and dining options in town and lots of service companies catering to travelers. You’ll probably only venture across to ‘edgy’ Tabatinga to take a boat to Manaus.
Formalities
When arriving or departing Colombia, you will need to complete formalities at the Colombian Immigration office, which is located at the airport (3 km north of town).
Sightseeing
Around Town
While there are no real sights in Leticia, the town is a nice place to spend some time relaxing. Parque Santander and Parque Orellana are two municipal parks where you can relax and watch the world go by.
One interesting phenomenon that takes place each evening at sunset is the arrival at Parque Santander of thousands of parrots who roost in the trees for the night. The noise can be deafening.
Marasha Nature Reserve (Peru)
The kayak journey through an Amazon swamp to the Marasha Nature Reserve which lies in Peru opposite Leticia (Colombia).
I spent time at the Marasha Nature Reserve which is an Eco-lodge located on the Peruvian side of the river (you can visit without getting stamped into Peru but must carry your passport) in the tiny settlement of Puerto Alegria.
To access the lodge, you first travel upriver from Leticia to PuertoAlegria where you disembark and, depending on the season either walk (dry season) or canoe (wet season) to the lodge.
A majestic Great White Heron at the Marasha Nature Reserve in Peru.
I travelled during the wet season, so I got to sit back and relax while my Indigenous guide rowed myself and one other guest in a dug-out canoe through a flooded jungle forest. Along the way we passed Howler monkeys swinging through the trees, saw Caiman basking in the sun, Iguana’s and many different types of birds. After an hour of paddling, the jungle safari sadly ended as we reached the lodge, which is perched in a picturesque spot on the banks of a small lake.
While at the lodge you can fish for Piranhafrom the deck, feed giant Arapaimafish (one of the largest freshwater fishes in the world), make friends with the resident Macaws and Toucansor spot the local Caiman who lurks around the deck (swimming is not recommended here!)
In the evening you have the opportunity to accompany the Indigenous guide for some Caiman spotting. We found several babies on our night safari and – while very cute – they still pack a nasty bite. Kayaks are also available and hiking trails around the lodge allow you to get close and personal with the wildlife.
Spending time at the Marasha Nature Reserve was one of the highlights of my meander down the Amazon River.
Accommodation
There are plenty of accommodation options in Leticia from hotels to guest houses, hostels and jungle lodges. Prices are very reasonable with a decent B&B charging US$20 per night (including breakfast).
Leticia offers, by far, the best dining options in the Tres Fronteras area. The restaurants in town offer up a fusion of cuisines, blending Colombian, Brazilian and Peruvian influences.
If you wish to sample Colombian cuisine (one of the best in South America), the Tierras Amazonicas on Calle 8 is a standout choice. Also nearby on Calle 8 is El Cielo Fusion Amazonica, which as the name suggests, specialises in fusion cuisine using local Amazonian produce.
Being the only Colombian town on the Amazon River, no long distance boats call at Leticia. If traveling to Peru, you’ll need to take a boat from Santa Rosa and if traveling to Brazil you’ll need to take a boat from Tabatinga.
Road
You can easily walk across the border between Colombia and Brazil by following the Avenida da Amizade – or you can take one of the many taxis and moto-taxis which cross the border freely.
Getting Around
Boat
Water taxis connect Leticia with the Peruvian settlement of Santa Rosa from where you can board boats to Iquitos, Peru.
Road
There are plenty of regular taxis and motorbike taxis on the streets of Leticia.
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Travel Quiz 07: Flags of the World
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Welcome to the taste2travel Brazil and Guianas Travel Guide!
Introduction
This Brazil and Guianas Travel Guide details a 3,000 kilometre (1,865 mile) overland journey between the Brazilian Amazonian cities of Macapá and Manaus via French Guiana, Suriname, Guyana and Venezuela.
After two years of meandering through most parts of South America, the one region I had yet to explore was the remote and little-visited north-eastern corner of the continent – home to the three Guianas; French Guiana, Suriname and Guyana.
In Cayenne, French Guiana, Carnival is celebrated from January to March each year.
In many respects, the three Guiana’s are an anomaly within South America. On a continent comprised mostly of Latino people who live in former Spanish colonies (and one Portuguese colony), this triumvirate is comprised of Guyana – a former British colony; Suriname a former Dutch colony and French Guiana – a French territory (and a distant outpost of the European Union).
The differences between the Guiana’s and the rest of South America are not only linguistic but cultural. With a combined population of less than 1.5 million (most of whom live along a narrow coastal corridor), the citizens of the Guiana’s face north to the Atlantic Ocean and look to their Caribbean neighbours for cultural references.
While Brazil and French Guiana are separated by the narrow Oyapok river, they are culturally worlds apart, with Cayenne having a distinctly Caribbean air.
Both Guyana and Suriname are members of Caricom(The Caribbean Community) with Guyana hosting the organisation’s headquarters in Georgetown.
The biggest mosque in Suriname is located on the Keizerstraat in Paramaribo.
Despite their small populations (Guyana: 773,000 / Suriname: 558,000), ethnic diversity is high due to the fact that the British and Dutch realised they couldn’t rely on the native Indian population as a labour force for their sugar plantations, so they imported African slaves. Once slavery had been abolished, imported indentured labourers from British India were introduced.
Christ Church in Georgetown, Guyana.
The Dutch also added Indonesian (Javanese) workers from the Dutch East Indies into the mix in Suriname. Through the centuries, the populations mixed, making for an interesting mélange. Walk the streets of Georgetown or Paramaribo and you’ll find churches, mosques, Hindu temples and (in the case of Paramaribo) a synagogue on the same street.
A map of the Guyana shield. Source: Wikipedia
Adding to this feeling of ‘otherness’, the Guiana’s are isolated from their southern neighbours by a vast, dense rainforest. Development in the region has been hampered by the impossible terrain – created by the immense Guyana Shield – a series of mountain ranges and highlands punctuated by deep gorges and valley’s, seemingly designed to conserve the interior’s impenetrability. It’s due to this geographical feature that such spectacular waterfalls as Angel (Venezuela) and Kaieteur (Guyana) exist.
A rainbow over Kaieteur Falls, Guyana.
The difficult landscape has also hindered the development of road infrastructure in the region, with just one asphalt road connecting Brazil to French Guiana (along the coast) and one long, enduring gravel road connecting Guyana to Brazil through the remote and sparsely populated interior.
The ‘highway’ connecting Guyana with Brazil passes through the Iwokrama forest in Guyana.
When borders were created in the region, the many wide rivers made for easy demarcation lines. If you follow the coastal route from Brazil to Venezuela, you’ll first cross the Oyapok River (the only one which has been bridged) into French Guyana, then the Maroni River into Suriname, then finally, the CorentyneRiver into Guyana.
Guyana and Venezuela share a remote and isolated land border but, for more than a century, Venezuela has disputed the present border, instead claiming all the territory as far east as the Essequibo River. You can read more about this dispute in myEssequibo Travel Guide.
Girls walking along the riverbank of the Essequibo in Bartica, Guyana.
Air services from the Guiana’s to other parts of South America are also limited. Despite billing itself as the ‘Gateway to South America‘, Cheddi Jagan International airport (Georgetown) only offers air connections (within South America) to neighbouring Suriname.
Services between Suriname (Paramaribo) and Brazil (Belém) are offered three times a week bySurinam Airways (via Cayenne) and once a week (Sunday) by the Brazilian carrier GOL.Azul Brazilian Airlines provides connections between Cayenne and Belém every Sunday and Cayenne and Fortaleza on Saturday.
If you wish to get off the well-beaten South American gringo trail, the three Guiana’s offer something completely different. From dramatic waterfalls, virgin rainforests, immense rivers, abundant wildlife and an ethnic potpourri, traveling here is a rewarding and fulfilling experience – and in most places you’ll encounter few, if any, other tourists.
Location
A map showing the original five Guianas. Source: Wikipedia
The area covered by this report is known as the Guyana’s (also spelt: Guiana’s) – a vast tropical region in the North-East of South America which is bounded in the west by the Orinocoriver (Venezuela) and in the east by the Amazon river (Brazil).
The name Guyana is derived from the Amerindian language, meaning “land of many waters” – a direct reference to the many large rivers which bisect the region, draining the Guyana Shield, eventually flowing into the Atlantic ocean.
Passenger speedboats on the Pomeroon River in the riverside town of Charity, Guyana. In the ‘Land of Many Waters’, many communities are accessible only by boat.
In colonial times, every colonial power of importance had its own Guiana – these were (in geographical order from west to east):
Spanish Guiana – now the Guayana region of Venezuela
British Guiana – now the sovereign nation of Guyana
Dutch Guiana – now the sovereign nation of Suriname
French Guiana – now a French department known in French as ‘Guyane’
Portuguese Guiana – now the Brazilian state of Amapa
When Guyana declared independence, it changed its name from British Guiana to Guyana.
History
Pre-Columbian Era
Prior to European colonisation of the region, the Guiana’s were populated by native Arawak Indians. It was these Indians who immigrated from the Orinoco (Venezuela) and Essequibo (Guyana) river basin, establishing the first settlements throughout the Caribbean islands.
The Arawaks were eventually supplanted in the Caribbean by the more aggressive Carib Indians, who also originated from the Guiana’s.
European Era
The first European to discover the north-east coast of South America was Christopher Columbus in 1498. Columbus didn’t make any claims at the time and it wasn’t until the end of the 16th century when Sir Walter Raleigh published an account of his search for “Manoa“, the legendary city of the king known as El Dorado (the City of Gold),that interest in the region developed.
A world map showing the two hemispheres as defined by the Treaty of Tordesillas. Source: The New York Times.
The 1494 Treaty of Tordesillas (a papal edict) divided the world into two spheres of control between Spain and Portugal. One of the dividing meridian lines passed through the Guiana’s, with Spain owning everything to the west and Portugal owning everything to the east.
While these two powers were busy developing their colonies to the south (and the Portuguese were busy expanding Brazil further west into the Spanish hemisphere), the protestant Dutch and English, who didn’t recognise the papal edict, established settlements along the fertile coast of the Guiana’s.
In the early 17th century, Protestant plantations sprang up along the fertile Guyanan coast-lands. Ironically, it was the Dutch who first settled Guyana (formerly British Guiana), while the British were the first to colonize Suriname (which would become Dutch Guiana).
France settled what was left, and the three powers proceeded to fight over and swap their Guyana territories like they did their nearby Caribbean possessions. The Spanish and Portuguese viewed settlement of the region as a violation of the treaty and repeatedly attacked and destroyed the settlements.
The Ministry of Finance building anchors one side of Independence Square in Paramaribo.
All the colonies along the Guiana coast were converted to profitable sugar plantations during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. However, war continued to be waged among the Dutch, French and British until a final peace agreement was signed in 1814 – the Convention of London – which heavily favoured the British.
Post-convention, the French retained French Guiana, while the Dutch retained Suriname but were forced to give up Berbice, Essequibo, and Demerara; these colonies were consolidated under a British administration and would be known after 1831 as British Guiana.
Entrance to prison cells at a former French penal colony on Îles du Salut, French Guiana.
After 1814, the Guiana’s came to be recognized individually as British Guiana, French Guiana, and Dutch Guiana. British Guiana became independent of the United Kingdom on 26 May 1966, changing it’s name to Guyana.
In 1975, Suriname left the Kingdom of the Netherlands in 1975, gaining its independence while French Guiana continues to remain a territory of France and is – by default – a part of the European Union.
Generous annual subsidies from Paris ensure that any calls for independence don’t ever gain traction, however residents occasionally protest against the high cost of prices in the territory (compared to France).
Currencies
The official currency of Brazil – Brazilian Reals.
The following currencies are mentioned in this guide:
The Brazilian Real (R$) is the official currency of Brazil. Click here to view the current exchange rate against USD$1.
The Euro (€) is the official currency of French Guyana. Click here to view the current exchange rate against USD$1.
The Suriname Dollar(S$) is the official currency of Suriname. Click here to view the current exchange rate against USD$1.
The Guyana Dollar (GYD$) is the official currency of Guyana. Click here to view the current exchange rate against USD$1.
The Venezuelan Bolívar (VEF) is the official currency of Venezuela. Click here to view the official government exchange rate against USD$1.
Note: Due to hyperinflation in Venezuela, the unofficial exchange rate is changing constantly. You can check the current rate at dolartoday.com
The Surinamese dollar.
Journey Map
A 3,000 kilometre (1,865 mile) odyssey from one Amazon city to another, via the Guiana’s.
Destinations
Macapá (Brazil)
View of the Amazon River from Fortaleza de São José de Macapá.
Introduction
It’s actually easier to reach Macapá from neighbouring French Guiana than from the rest of Brazil, thanks to a highway that connects the city with Cayenne, the capital.
Macapá is strategically located on the northern channel of the Amazon River, near its mouth on the Atlantic ocean. At 325 kilometres (202 miles) across, the mouth is the widest in the world and effectively isolates Macapá from the rest of Brazil. The city has no land connections to other parts of Brazil, except other cities in Amapá state and French Guiana.
I arrived in the capital of Amapá stateafter spending a leisurely 24-hours crossing the mouth of the river on a slow boat from Belém (see the ‘Getting There – Boat‘ section below for details on the journey). During the colonial period the state was called Portuguese Guiana and so it was fitting that Macapá should serve as the launch pad for my foray into the other Guiana’s.
Macapá (pop: 500,000) is a relaxed, laid-back capital and, while not brimming with attractions, is a pleasant enough place to spend time recuperating between journeys. I spent two days in the city before boarding a night bus to Oiapoque on the French Guiana border.
Sightseeing
Fortalzeza de Sao Jose de Macapá.
The main attraction in Macapá is the sprawling ruin of the fort – Fortalzeza de Sao Jose de Macapá. The fort was built at the mouth of the Amazon River by the Portuguese from 1764 to 1782 as a defence against the French who took control of what is now French Guiana in 1677. Entrance to the fort is free and while all information is in Portuguese, the sweeping views of the Amazon river require no translation.
The Marco Zero monument in Macapá indicates the Equatorial line.
Located 6 kilometres from downtown on Avenue Equatorial, the Marco Zero monument was built to mark the position of the equator, which cuts through the city.
Where else can you stand on the equator? Or stand in both hemispheres? Or hop/ skip over the equator?
The 30 metre tall tower has a large open circle at its top. Twice a year, at the spring and autumn equinoxes, the sun aligns with that circle, focusing a line of sunlight along the equator.
Accommodation
Macapá offers a good selection of accommodation catering to all budgets from hostels to 4-star hotels. While in town, I stayed at the 4-star Hotel Do Forte, which is one of the better hotels in town. Located downtown, this comfortable, clean and modern hotel is a short walk from restaurants, bars and attractions such as the fort and the river. You can book properties usingbooking.com
Eating Out
Sleepy Macapá offers a surprisingly good number of restaurants with the standout being the Amazonas Peixaria. Overlooking the Amazon river, this is a good place to eat local fish and sample Amazonian cuisine.
Getting There/ Away
Air
A slow boat from Belém to Macapá takes 24 hours, while a flight takes just 55 minutes (but is nowhere near as adventurous). Not surprisingly, many people choose to fly to Macapá, which is served by Alberto Alcolumbre International Airport(located 3 kilometres north-west of downtown).
The following airlines provide regular flights to/ from Macapá:
LATAM Brasil – flies four times a week to/from Belém & Brasília
Gol Airlines – flies twice a week to/from Belém & Brasília
On-board the M/V Sao Francisco de Paula leaving Belém for Macapá, a journey of 24 hours.
From Belém
Slow boats travel twice a week from Belém, departing every Wednesday and Saturday at 10:00 am, arriving 24 hours later in Macapá’s port neighbourhood ofSantana.
I traveled on the M/VSao Francisco de Paula, paying R$225 for a berth in a private cabin – hammock space is available for R$120. Food and drinks are available on board.
The very crowded ‘hammock-class’ on the M/V Sao Francisco de Paula which connects Macapá and Belém.
From Macapá
The M/VSao Francisco de Paula, returns to Belém from Macapá (Santana) twice a week, completing the journey in 24 hours.
Land
The road network in Amapá state is disconnected from the rest of Brazil, so long distance bus services are limited. The most useful connection for travelers are the two nightly Amazontur buses which make the 600-kilometre journey north along route BR156 to the border town of Oiapoque.
The town is located on the banks of the Oyapok river, slightly upstream from St. Georges (French Guiana). Buses depart from Macapá bus station at 5:00 pm and 6:00 pm.
My bus seemed to cover the distance in record time, arriving very early (5:00 am) at the tiny Oiapoque bus station. It was great to have arrived early but the Brazilian immigration office wouldn’t open until 8:00 am so I had no option but to sleep on a bench at the bus station until the border opened.
Built at a cost of US$50 million, the very grand Oiapoque bridge connects Brazil and French Guiana – the only land connection throughout the Guiana’s.
The border crossing over the Oyapok river is the only one in the Guiana’s which can be made via a bridge. The Oiapoque bridge is a grand construction which was completed in 2011 at a cost of US$50 million but – due to politics between Brazil and France – was not opened until March of 2017. It’s the only land connection between Brazil and France – or Brazil and the European Union.
If you arrive at the border in the morning, it’s best to take breakfast in St. Georges (please refer to myFrench Guiana Travel Guide) where you’ll find French-style cafés, pâtisseries and boulangeries – much better than the standard Brazilian breakfast of chocolate cake.
French Guiana
Located in downtown Cayenne, Place du Coq is named after the rooster which sits atop a column in the middle of the square.
For all details on French Guiana – including Sightseeing, Accommodation, Eating Out, Getting There & Away, please refer to my French Guiana Travel Guide.
Cayenne Carnival
A Cayenne Carnival Participant.
French Guiana is home to the world’s longest runningCarnival celebration, which is held every year between Epiphany (early January) and Ash Wednesday (February or March).
The celebrations include a very photogenic parade, which is held every Sunday afternoon in Cayenne. For more on this, please refer to my Cayenne Carnival report.
Suriname
Dutch-style colonial buildings in the UNESCO-listed old town of Paramaribo.
For all details on Suriname – including Sightseeing, Accommodation, Eating Out, Getting There & Away, please refer to mySuriname Travel Guide.
Guyana
The majestic and awe-inspiring, Kaieteur Falls – a truly spectacular sight.
I am currently sitting in my favourite Georgetown cafe – The Oasis Café – writing this guide. I first came to Guyana a few years ago and have returned many times since.
While the capital of Georgetown is less-than-appealing, the real attractions of Guyana lie in the remote, unexplored interior – a vast pristine wilderness full of incredible, dramatic nature and abundant wildlife.
The country receives very few tourists but offers so much for those who are adventurous and don’t mind for-going their creature comforts.
All details detailing my journey across Guyana – from the border of Suriname to Georgetown then south through the vast, empty interior to Lethem and the Brazilian border are covered in myGuyana Travel Guide. Details on all border crossing are included in the guide.
Essequibo Region
Father and daughter swimming at Lake Capoey
There are plenty of opportunities to get off the beaten track in remote Guyana. One fascinating area worth exploring is the Essequibo region. Named after the mighty Essequibo river (the 2nd largest in South America), there are few roads in this part of the world, with most journeys being made in small wooden boats which bounce their way across the choppy surfaces of wide, tea-stained coloured rivers.
For more information on this little-visited part of the world, please refer to my Essequibo Travel Guide.
Boa Vista (Brazil)
Introduction
Boa Vista is the capital of Roraima state, the northern-most state of Brazil and the only Brazilian state capital located entirely north of the Equator (Macapá is on the Equator).
Despite it’s size (pop: 300 000), this clean, green, planned city has a quiet, relaxed, orderly air about it and is a pleasant place to spend a couple of days. Founded more than a century ago, the city has the aspects of a planned capital, with wide modern streets and traffic circles.
Sightseeing
What Boa Vista lacks in historical sights, it makes up for with it’s many green, open spaces. The joy of spending time in the city comes from meandering around the relaxed downtown area or taking a sunset cruise on the Branco river.
Accommodation
There’s no shortage of accommodation options in this cosmopolitan metropolis, from budget hostels to fancy hotels. While in town I treated myself and stayed at the very comfortable Aipana Plaza Hotel which is located downtown and features modern, stylish rooms and a beautiful swimming pool (a perfect way to cool off in this normally hot town).
Eating Out
Brazilians know a thing or two about BBQ (Churrascaria) and Boa Vista is home to some great Churrascaria’s. My favourite is Churrascaria Bhuritys, where succulent meats are served in a semi-formal dining room by attentive, friendly staff.
Getting There/ Away
Air
Boa Vista is served by the Boa Vista International Airport, which has the distinction of being the northern-most Brazilian airport served by scheduled flights. The following airlines provide services:
Boa Vista is an important transport junction, providing daily bus connections to Manaus, Venezuela and Guyana.
To/ From Manaus:
Frequent buses run between Boa Vista and Manaus with the 746 kilometre journey (along route BR174) taking approximately 12-13 hours. Three different companies offer multiple daily trips with fares ranging from R$157 – R$210. The first bus departs Boa Vista at 09:00, arriving in Manaus at 21:30. You can book tickets online here.
To Venezuela:
Asaturoffer one daily bus between Boa Vista and the Brazilian border town of Pacaraima, 214 kilometres to the north. The bus departs Boa Vista at 07:30, and travels north along BR174, arriving at the border at 11:02. Tickets cost R$30 and can be purchased online here.
The bus station in Pacaraima is a short stroll from the border post. It’s best to walk across the border before taking a taxi the 12 kilometres into the Venezuelan town of Santa Elena. Please refer to my Venezuela (Gran Sabana) Travel Guide for more on this crossing.
If the bus isn’t convenient, there are plenty of (faster) shared taxis shuttling between Boa Vista and Pacaraima. Taxi’s depart from Terminal Coimbe, chargingR$40 per person.
From Venezuela:
The same Asaturbus returns to Boa Vista, departing from Pacaraima bus station at 15:00, arriving in Boa Vista at 18:32. If you miss the bus there are plenty of shared taxis.
To/From Guyana:
At the end of BR401, 124 kilometres north-east of Boa Vista, is the sleepy Brazilian border town of Bonfim. This town of 12,000 lies on the Takutu River across from Lethem, Guyana. The Takutu River Bridge (open from 7 am to 7 pm) links Brazil and Guyana, with the immigration posts for each country being on opposite sides of the bridge. The bridge includes a neat lane-changing design to switch vehicles from the left side of the road onto the right side or vice-versa.
If you’re arriving in Brazil from Guyana (and have completed the grueling overnight journey through the rainforest from Georgetown to Lethem), you’ll be happy to know that the road from Bonfim to Boa Vista is a top class, fully paved, fast highway.
Amatur operate four buses a day between Boa Vista bus station and Bonfim bus station (with an extra stop at the Brazilian border post). Tickets for the 2 hour journey cost R$18. Current bus times are:
Boa Vista to Bonfim: 7:00AM, 10:00AM, 2:00PM, 4:30PM
Bonfim to Boa Vista: 7:00AM, 10:00AM, 2:00PM, 4:30PM
Shared taxis also run between Boa Vista and Bonfim, completing the journey in one hour and charging R$25 per person.
While in Boa Vista, I decided to make a side trip to the north, crossing into Venezuela to visit the picturesque Gran Sabana (Grand Savannah) region. The border town of Santa Elena provides lots of services for travelers, making it an ideal base for exploring this remote corner of the country.
With 2.1 million inhabitants, Manaus is the largest city on the Amazon (the 2nd largest is Belém with 1.5 million) and it’s busiest port.
The city is located on the banks of the Rio Negro (the largest left tributary of the Amazon River and, the largest black-water river in the world) a few miles before it meets the Rio Solimões to form the Amazon River proper. The two rivers flow side by side for many miles, different in colour, mixing in eddies: the “Meeting of the Waters.”
Despite being situated 1,400 km (900 miles) upriver from the Atlantic Ocean, the Amazon is navigable for ocean-going vessels and the main economic engine of Manaus is the Duty Free port and the Manaus Free Economic Zone.
A long way from the sea – 1,400 km upriver, an ocean-going freighter approaches Manaus port.
During colonial times, great wealth was generated from rubber plantations during the period known as the Amazon Rubber Boom (1879 to 1912).
The proceeds from this boom were used to build magnificent buildings, including a copy of the Grand Opera de Paris – the Teatro Amazonas. Other monuments from this period are the Mercado Municipal, a copy of the famous market halls Les Halles in Paris, and the arts centre Palacio Rio Negro.
Apart from a wealth of history and sights, Manaus serves as a regional travel hub offering onward travel possibilities to Boa Vista, Guyana and Venezuela.
If you’re spending time meandering along the river, Manaus is the best place to take timeout, offering a good choice of accommodation, fine restaurants, bars and cafes and the biggest shopping mall on the Amazon – Amazonas Shopping.
Sightseeing
Theatro Amazonas
The opulent interior of the Theatro Amazonas, Manaus.
This spectacular theatre is a ‘must see’ in Manaus. Constructed during the years of the rubber boom, when the city was awash with money, no expense was spared on its construction with the roof tiles being imported from Alsace, the steel walls from Glasgow and Carrara marble from Italy.
The dome is covered with 36,000 decorated ceramic tiles painted in the colours of the national flag of Brazil. Concerts are held often and tickets are very affordable at about US$10 each. I saw an amazing concert which showcased the culture of the Amazon, definitely a highlight of my stay!
The Theatro Amazonas, Manaus.
Mercado Municipal – This ‘touristy’ riverside market is very clean and organised. It’s a good place to buy souvenirs or to have a refreshing fruit juice (made from amazing Amazonian fruits).
Meeting of the Waters
The ‘Meeting of the Waters’, down-river from Manaus.
The Meeting of the Waters is composed of water from the Rio Negro and Rio Solimões Rivers. They meet up to form the Lower Amazon River, but do not mix together initially. This amazing phenomenon stretches for 6 km (3.7 mi) and is caused by irreconcilable differences in the water properties between the two rivers.
Our boat from Manaus to Santarém passing through the ‘Meeting of the Waters’.
The Rio Negro, as the name implies, is a river of water that looks nearly black. It is relatively clear of sediment but has obtained its tea-like colour from large quantities of plant material steeping in the water as it comes down through the jungles of Colombia. The water has an average temperature of 28 degrees Celsius (82.4 degrees Fahrenheit) and flows slowly at about 2 kilometres per hour (1.24 mph).
Accommodation
The best place to stay is in the historic old town where you have a good selection of guest houses, restaurants, bars and cafes and everything is within walking distance.
I stayed at the wonderful Boutique Hotel Casa Teatro which is across the road from the Opera house and in close proximity to all the sights in the old town. The neighbourhood is very pedestrian friendly with loads of dining and entertainment options.
If you prefer something more modern, there are many international chain hotels in the new town. There are plenty of options on booking.com
Eating Out
There is no shortage of good restaurants in Manaus, including a quirky revolving restaurant which is located on the top of the Taj Mahal Hotel. The décor is very 1970’s and the restaurant is tired and worn. It all feels like you’re on the set of a vintage James Bond movie set – waiting for the bad guys to arrive. The food, service and views are worthwhile and besides – where else can you eat in a revolving restaurant in the jungle?
Shopping
Manaus offers the same sort of shopping opportunities you would expect to find in any large metropolis. Something that is unexpected in the middle of the jungle is the glitzy, modern shopping mall – Amazonas Shopping – a short taxi ride from downtown. Whatever you need, you’ll find it here, along with a good selection of restaurants.
Getting There/ Away
Air
If you don’t fancy spending days traveling on a slow boat along the Amazon river (or if you’re not arriving on a bus from Boa Vista) then flying is your only other option for reaching this remote jungle metropolis. Flights arrive at Manaus International Airport – Eduardo Gomes, which is located 13 kilometres (8 miles) west of downtown.
Gol Airlines – flies to/ from Belém, Belo Horizonte, Boa Vista, Buenos Aires-Ezeiza, Brasília, Campo Grande, Cruzeiro do Sul, Cuiabá, Curitiba, Fortaleza, Foz do Iguaçu, Porto Alegre, Porto Velho, Recife, Rio Branco, Rio de Janeiro-Galeão, Salvador da Bahia, Santarém, São Luís, São Paulo-Guarulhos
LATAM Brasil – flies to/ from Belém, Boa Vista, Brasília, Fortaleza, Miami, Salvador da Bahia, São Paulo-Guarulhos
The national airline of Curaçao, Insel Air, used to provide a very convenient connection from Manaus to Aruba. A great way of getting from the jungle onto a white-sand, Caribbean beach in just a few hours.
From the middle of the Amazon jungle to the white-sand beaches of the Caribbean, the Insel air flight was a dream connection for travellers but was never of interest to locals. As such, the flights were never well patronised and not surprisingly the service was terminated.
I once took this flight which I shared with just one other passenger. The Captain personally came to thank us for flying.
My Insel Air flight from Manaus to Aruba. I shared the flight with one other passenger.
Land
Despite the fanciful lines often drawn onto road maps of Brazil, there are no roads connecting Manaus with the rest of Brazil – except for route BR174 which runs north to the Venezuelan border via Boa Vista (capital of Roraima state). This asphalt highway is in excellent condition, and the buses which ply the route are comfortable and fast.
To Boa Vista:
Frequent night buses run between Manaus and Boa Vista with the 746 kilometre journey taking approximately 12-13 hours. Three different companies offer multiple daily trips with fares ranging from R$157 – R$210. Eucaturoffer the only daytime service which departs Manaus at 10:00, arriving in Boa Vista at 21:55. You can book tickets online here.
To Venezuela:
The Venezuelan border is 960 kilometres north of Manaus at the end of BR174. Any journey to the border will require a change of transport in Boa Vista (please refer to the ‘Boa Vista – Getting There‘ section for more details).
To Guyana:
There are no direct transport options from Manaus to Guyana. Like Venezuela, you will first need to travel to Boa Vista then take a bus or shared taxi to the border town of Bonfim then cross the Takutu River Bridge, entering Guyana at the town of Lethem (please refer to the ‘Boa Vista – Getting There‘ section for more details).
Boat
Amazon river ‘slow’ boats docked in Manaus.
Manaus is the busiest port on the Amazon with regular boats departing to all points along the river. Tickets should be purchased in advance from the ticket offices at the dock.
Slow boats:
My deluxe cabin on the ‘MV Amazonia’, a slow boat which carried me from Santarém to Belém in 48 hours.
Slow boats depart from the chaotic and crowded docks in downtown Manaus. Departures include:
Manaus to Tabatinga: The up-river journey can take anywhere from 5-7 days. The cost for hammock space is R$330 while a cabin costs R$414 per person (two sharing). Meals and drinks are included.
Manaus to Santarém: The down-river journey takes about 30 hours. The cost for hammock space is R$80 while a cabin costs R$700 per person. Meals and drinks are not included.
Manaus to Belém: The down-river journey takes 80 hours with hammock space costing R$220. Meals and drinks are not included.
The captain of my slow boat from Manaus to Santarém.
Fast boats:
Rocketing along the Amazon river on a fast boat from Tabatinga to Manaus.
Currently four fast boats a week operate between Manaus and the border town of Tabatinga, completing the1,628 kilometres (1011 miles) journey in 36 hours. Each boat offers comfortable aircraft-style seats, clean bathrooms and all inclusive meals which are served at your seat.
All boats depart from the ‘Terminal Ajato‘ wharf in Manaus as per the following timetable (current at March 2018):
The MV Expresso Madame Cris: Departs Thursday at 06:00 am (R$550 per seat)
The MV Expresso Gloria de Deus III: Departs Friday at 06:00 am (R$600)
The MV Expresso Cidade de Manaquiri: Departs Sunday at 06:00 am (R$600)
The MV Expresso Crystal I: Departs Tuesday at 06:00 am (R$600)
The company previously operated a fast boat from Manaus to Santarém but unfortunately suspended their service, leaving passengers at the mercy of the slow (30 hours) boats.
A meal served in my seat on the fast boat from Tabatinga to Manaus.
Seating on the boats is limited so it’s best to book tickets in advance on their website(only available in Portuguese) or from their ticket office at the wharf in Manaus. If booking from the wharf you’ll need to show your passport.
Getting to Colombia/ Peru
The kayak journey through an Amazon swamp to the Marasha Nature Reserve which lies in Peru opposite Leticia (Colombia).
If you wish to travel by river to Leticia (Colombia) or Iquitos (Peru), you’ll first need to travel from Manaus upriver to the Brazilian border town of Tabatinga. At this point the three countries converge and while in this area, movement between the countries is unrestricted. However, when you do decide to leave, you’ll need to be stamped out of the country you’re exiting and stamped into the country in which you’ll continue your travels.
The Brazilian immigration office is located on Avenida da Amizade. This avenue continues, uninterrupted, across the border into Leticia.
The Colombian immigration office is at the airport, so if you’re flying in and moving on to a different country you should get your passport stamped when you land.
The Peruvian immigration office is on the muddy island of Santa Rosa, which can be reached in 10 minutes by boat from either Tabatinga or Leticia. Boats to Iquitos (Peru) arrive and depart from here.
If you must spend anytime in the border area, Leticia offers the best accommodation and dining options and is much more pleasant than either Tabatinga or Santa Rosa.
To Colombia
At Tabatinga you can simply walk across the border (or take a taxi) into neighbouring Leticia.
Boats travel upriver to Iquitos from tiny settlement of Santa Rosa, which is located across the river from Leticia and Tabatinga. You have a choice of taking either a fast boat (13 hours) or a slow boat (4 days):
Fast boat to Iquitos
Three different companies (Transtur, Golfinho & Flipper), operate daily (except Monday) fast boats from Santa Rosa to Iquitos, covering the 486 kilometre (302 mile) journey in 13 hours. Tickets cost 200 Peruvian Soles (US$70) with the boats departing Santa Rosa at 4:00 am – yes that is AM! If you’re staying in Tabatinga or Leticia you’ll need to take a boat across to Santa Rosa at 3:00 am.
Note: If you are taking the 4:00 am fast boat to Iquitos, you need to get your Peruvian entry stamp the day before departure as the immigration office will be closed at the time of your departure and you will not be allowed on the boat without a Peruvian entry stamp.
I made the journey with (and would certainly recommend) Transporte Golfinho who have departures for Iquitos three times a week (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday). Tickets can be purchased from their office in Tabatinga:
Address: Av. Marechal Mallet N° 306 E-mail: jrcbra@hotmail.com
Slow Boat to Iquitos
If you prefer to embark on a more enduring adventure, slow boats depart from Santa Rosa each evening (except Thursday), reaching Iquitos four days later. Essentially cargo boats, the 2nd floor is used to transport passengers who must supply their own hammock. Tickets cost 80 Peruvian Soles (US$25).
From Iquitos you can then continue your journey into Peru by either:
Taking one of the regular daily flights from Iquitos airport to Lima.
Or – for the die hard overlander’s – taking a four day slow boat further up the Amazon to the town of Pucallpawhere you can finally connect with the Peruvian road network.
Brazil provides visa-free access for a period of 90 days to 93 different nationalities, however this does not include Australian, Canadian or United States passport holders, who must apply for a visa in advance. You can check your requirements here.
A new e-visa process is now available for holders of Australian, Canadian, Japanese and United States passports. The processing time for the e-visa is 5 days, with the visa valid for multiple visits (not exceeding 90 days per year) over a two year period.
More information, including a link to the online form, can be found here:
While French Guiana is a territory of France, it applies its own visa policy. One key difference from the policy of France is that French Guiana places restrictions on Brazilian passport holders who wish to travel there.
Citizens of 54 countries and territories are provided visa free access to Guyana for a period of 1,3 or 6 months, with most nationalities receiving a 3 month stay.
Few nationalities are granted visa-free access to Suriname with many required to apply for a visa in advance or apply for a Tourist card (valid for single entry only).
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Welcome to the taste2travel Galápagos Islands Travel Guide!
Introduction
Formerly known as the Islas Encantadas (the Enchanted Isles), the Galápagos Islands are today a popular tourist destination, easily reached via a two-hour flight from the Ecuadorian mainland. Despite their easy accessibility and popularity (200,000 tourists visit annually), the islands still maintain their enchantment.
A Nazca Booby gathering nest material at Punta Suarez, Española Island.
“Without tourism, the Galápagos would not exist.” Sir David Attenborough
Tourism is the economic mainstay of the Galápagos Islands and has played a critical role in their conservation. The Ecuadorian government generates a lot of revenue from them and has an interest in preserving this unique, pristine environment – one of the few places left on the planet where the human footprint is kept to a minimum.
A glistening Galápagos Sea Lion on the beach at Punta Pitt, San Cristóbal Island.
Located on the Equator, a thousand kilometres off the coast of Ecuador, this remote, volcanic archipelago is home to an abundance of unique, endemic, wildlife. Giant tortoises, iguanas, fur seals, sea lions, penguins and 26 species of native birds co-exist on islands whose environments range from barren and arid (on the smaller islands) to lush, green, cloud-forest (on the larger islands).
The Santa Fe land iguana is endemic to Santa Fe Island.
All of the animals that call the Galápagos home arrived here either by swimming, floating or flying and over the years adapted to their unique environment by modifying themselves. It was the study of these animals, and their adaptation to this unique environment that lead Charles Darwin to publish his Natural Selection Theory after he journeyed here on the H.M.S. Beagle.
A Galapagos land iguana on South Plaza Island.
Today these animals can be viewed at close range in their natural habitat, making a journey to the Galápagos Islands a truly rewarding experience.
A Galápagos Sea lion basking in the midday sun on Santa Fe island.
Cruising in the Galápagos
Map of the Galápagos Islands. Source: Wikipedia
I travelled for 5 days/ 4 nights aboard the MV Santa Cruz (operated by Metropolitan Touring) on their ‘Eastern‘ Itinerary.
The company offers three different Galapagos itineraries which cover the Eastern, Northern and Western islands. The current brochure (for the newer MV Santa Cruz II) can be accessed here.
I booked my trip last minute from the Galapagos Travel Centre in downtown Quito, securing a slightly reduced rate.
My cruise ship in the Galapagos, the MV Santa Cruz at Punta Pitt, San Cristóbal Island.
The MV Santa Cruz is a luxury cruise ship, with a capacity for ninety passengers. The ship was manned by a crew of enthusiastic personnel who provided amazing meals, service and entertainment. Also on-board were a team of expert naturalist guides, who conducted guided walks twice a day on the various islands.
The cruise was an unforgettable experience and one I would recommend to nature lovers and photographers. If your budget will support it, I would suggest taking a cruise rather than remaining fixed on land.
Location
Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, Ecuador
Distributed on either side of the Equator, a thousand kilometres off the coast of Ecuador, the Galápagos are an archipelago of nineteen volcanic islands, two of which (Isabela and Fernandina) are still being formed.
One of 24 provinces of Ecuador, the islands cover a territory of 8,010 square kilometres (3,093 square miles), 97% of which is allocated to the Galápagos National Park (aUNESCOWorld Heritage Site), with the remaining 3% supporting a population of 30,000.
Humboldt Current
Traveling from Antarctica, the cold Humboldt current sweeps north along the west coast of South America then moves west along the Equator to the Galapagos Islands. Source: Wikipedia
Why is it you can find the GalápagosSea Lion and the GalápagosPenguin (the only penguin found north of the Equator) living in this equatorial part of the world? These creatures, which are normally found in cooler regions much further south, can survive due to the cool water temperatures and the abundant marine life which is carried to the islands on the Humboldt current.
A Galápagos Sea lion pup on the beach at Punta Suarez. The presence of sea lions on the equator is all due to the cold waters of the Humboldt current.
Named after a Prussian naturalist –Alexander von Humboldt(one of the first scientists to visit South America)– the Humboldt is a cold ocean current of low salinity and one of the major nutrient systems of the world (accounting for about 20% of the world’s annual fish catch), bringing marine life up into the surface waters of the ocean.
The current sweeps north from the southern tip of Chile along the west coast of South America (where it is also known as the Peru current) before sweeping west for a thousand kilometres along the Equator to the Galápagos islands.
History
Pre-Columbian Era
In 1952, two Norwegians – Thor Heyerdahl(who would later lead the Kon-tiki expedition) and Arne Skjølsvold conducted an archaeological study on various islands throughout the archipelago. While they found many pieces of pre-Inca pottery, ceramics and even a flute – they didn’t find any human remains, suggesting the islands were never settled during the pre-Colombian era.
European Era
A Galápagos tortoise on Santa Cruz Island.
The first European to make contact with the islands was Fray Tomás de Berlanga, a Spaniard and the fourth Bishop of Panama, whose vessel drifted off course on the 10th of March 1535 while he was sailing from Panama to Peru to settle a dispute between the conquistador Francisco Pizarro and his lieutenants.
The islands first appeared on Spanish maps in 1570 and were named “Insulae de los Galopegos” (Islands of the Tortoises) in reference to the giant tortoises which the Spaniards encountered.
The islands remained uninhabited until 1807, when an Irish sailor – Patrick Watkins – found himself marooned on Floreana island. He survived for two years by hunting, growing vegetables and trading with passing whaling boats until he eventually managed to steal a boat and sail east to Guayaquil on the South American mainland.
Huge Sperm whale populations later attracted American and European whaling ships to the islands.
Ecuadorian Era
Ecuador annexed the Galápagos Islands on the 12th of February 1832, naming them (of course!) the Archipelago of Ecuador with the first Ecuadorian settlers arriving later the same year.
During the early 20th century, a cash-strapped Ecuador offered to sell the islands to a suitable buyer. The United States was interested in purchasing them with the view to use them as a military base to guard the newly-built Panama canal. Chile also expressed interest in purchasing the islands.
The islands were never sold and in the 1920’s and 1930’s, European settlers arrived – attracted to the islands by incentives offered by the Ecuadorian government, which included receiving twenty hectares each of free land, the right to maintain their citizenship, freedom from taxation for the first ten years, and the right to hunt and fish freely on all uninhabited islands.
During WWII the Ecuadorian government authorised the United States to establish a naval base on Baltra Island (today home to one of the two airports in the archipelago) which allowed the Americans to defend the Panama canal.
In 1959, the centenary year of Charles Darwin’s publication of On the Origin of Species, the Ecuadorian government declared 97.5% of the archipelago’s land area a National park, excepting areas already populated.
The islands were opened to tourism the following year and today attract in excess of 200,000 visitors. Tourism is undeniably the economic lifeblood of the islands.
Charles Darwin
A Cactus finch (a member of the Darwin finch family) feeding off a Prickly Pear cactus on South Plaza Island.
If one person can be credited for putting the Galápagos islands on the world map then it must be CharlesDarwin. Born in 1809 in Shewsbury, England, a freshly-graduated Darwin convinced Captain Robert FitzRoy to let him join him aboard the H.M.S. Beagle as the ship’s Naturalist and Geologist.
In December, 1831 – at the tender age of 22 – Darwin set sail from England aboard the Beagle, a navy ship whose mission was to map harbour approaches throughout the world, information the English authorities desired so that they could increase trade throughout their expanding empire.
A playful Galápagos Sea lion on South Plaza Island.
Darwin viewed the invitation as an opportunity to explore different countries and the geological secrets they held and, upon arrival in the Galápagos, was initially more interested in the active volcanoes than the wildlife.
During the voyage through the Galápagos, Darwin collected Finches from different islands. He took these back to London where a senior ornithologist advised him that he had actually collected fourteen different species of the bird. Even though they all looked similar in size, there were subtle differences in the shape of their beaks, coloration, and behaviour. Today these birds, collectively, are known as the Darwin Finch.
It was this discovery that led Darwin on a quest for answers and it was through his findings that the natural selection theory was developed and published by him. His book, “On the Origin of Species”, is today considered to be the foundation of evolutionary biology and has immortalised himself and the Galápagos Islands.
People
The bustling fish market at Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island, one of the few Galapagos Islands which is populated.
When people think of the Galápagos Islands, they imagine wild, untamed, uninhabited landscapes brimming with unique wildlife. While this romantic image applies to 97% of the territory, there are approximately 30,000 local inhabitants who call the Galápagos home.
Most residents live on the islands of Santa Cruz and San Cristóbal –with 12,000 inhabitants in the main town of Puerto Ayora (Santa Cruz). Apart from Santa Cruz and San Cristóbal, small populations exist on the islands of Baltra, Floreana and Isabela.
In 1972, the islands supported a population of 3,500 people, but increased migration from the mainland has seen the population increase to levels the government now considers to be ample. Today, there are tight controls on the movement of people to/ from the islands, with all visitors required to purchase the INGALA Transit Control Card prior to arrival – see the ‘Getting There’ section below for more.
Currency
The U.S. Dollar is the official currency of Ecuador.
Following the 1998–99 financial crisis, and as a last resort to prevent hyperinflation, the Ecuadorian government formally adopted the U.S. Dollar as the country’s official currency.
The dollar was already in widespread informal use in the financial system and replaced the battered local currency – the Sucre – which had been in circulation for more than a hundred years.
While the dollar is the official currency, you should ensure you carry lots of small bills and coins as large bills (anything more than $20) are normally refused by merchants/ vendors. ATM’s dispense higher denomination bills but these should be immediately broken-down inside the bank.
Flag
The flag of the Galapagos Islands.
Although a part of Ecuador, the Galapagos Islands does have its own flag which is a horizontal tricolor combination of green, white and blue.
It is believed that the flag was first hoisted for the San Christobal Republic in 1851, on the island of San Christobal, long before the islands become a province of Ecuador in 1973.
The green represents the fertile highlands found on a few of the higher islands, while the white represents the emptiness of the semi-arid lowlands which comprise most of the Galápagos surface. The blue symbolises the Pacific ocean which surrounds the islands.
The flag of Ecuador.
Sightseeing
Day 1
Quito to San Cristóbal Island
Having purchased my whole Galápagos experience just 48-hours earlier from the Galapagos Travel Centre in downtown Quito, I made my way early on a Saturday morning to Quito airport to check in for my flight to San Cristóbal island, one of the two gateways to the Galápagos.
Our flight flew from a cold and foggy Quito (elevation 2,850 m/ 9,350 ft) to a hot and steamy Guayaquil (less than an hour away on the coast), then – after a brief stop to board more passengers – out into the Pacific ocean, arriving two hours later in the middle of nowhere on a sunny and dry San Cristóbal island.
After paying our Galápagos National Park entrance fee (USD$100) we exited the airport to be greeted by staff members from our cruise ship – the MV Santa Cruz, who transferred us to the ship from the dock of the provincial capital – Puerto Baquerizo Moreno.
Punta Pitt (San Cristóbal Island)
View of the MV Santa Cruz from Punta Pitt, San Cristóbal Island.
“On September 15 (1835), land was sighted: it turned out to be Mount Pitt, part of San Cristóbal Island” Wrote Charles Darwin on the first sighting of the Galápagos Islands from the H.M.S. Beagle.
A Marine Iguana at Punta Pitt, San Cristóbal Island.
After boarding the ship, we were required to participate in a safety drill prior to leaving for our first destination – Punta Pitt (Pitt Point). Located on the north-eastern tip of San Cristóbal island, this eroded volcanic cone was the first land sighted by Darwin from the Beagle.
A Galápagos Sea Lion emerging from the sea at Punta Pitt.
When arriving at the different islands, you make either a ‘wet‘ landing (exiting the dinghy into the water) or a ‘dry‘ landing (exiting the dinghy onto dry land). Punta Pitt was a wet landing onto a beautiful olive-coloured sandy beach, which was lined with lazy Galápagos Sea Lions, enjoying the afternoon sun.
Red-orange Galápagos carpet-weed adds a splash of colour to the otherwise arid landscape at Punta Pitt.
The passengers were separated into small groups and then led on a hike along a 3-km long trail through a ravine then up to the summit of the cone, which afforded panoramic views of the point.
Hiking in the ravine at Punta Pitt, San Cristóbal Island.
Along the trail we saw Iguana’s, Finches, Boobies (this is the only site in the Galapagos where the three species of boobies can be found together), Mockingbird’s, Frigates and more.
At sunset we returned to the ship for dinner and sailed through the evening to our next destination – Santa Fe island.
A female Frigate bird flying off the coast of Punta Pitt, San Cristóbal Island.
Day 2
Santa Fe Island
Galapagos Sea Lions relaxing on the shores of Barrington Bay, Santa Fe Island.
As was the pattern during the cruise – the light of a new day offered the sight of a new island and so, after breakfast, we travelled by dinghy to Santa Fe island, where we made a wet landing on an idyllic white-sand beach (Barrington Bay) which was populated by many lethargic Galápagos Sea Lions.
A Galápagos Sea lion pup sleeping on a slab of basalt rock at Barrington Bay, Santa Fe Island.
Santa Fe is comprised of some of the oldest basaltic rocks of the archipelago, which contrasted brilliantly with the white-sand beach. This black, smooth, volcanic stone provides an ideal resting place for Galápagos sea lion pups.
The endemic Santa Fe Lava Lizard on the sand at Barrington Bay, Santa Fe Island.
The warm sands of Barrington Bay attract the endemic Santa Fe Lava Lizard who enjoy relaxing on the warm sand. Only found on Santa Fe, males and females differ from each other in size, shape, and coloration.
Adult males are larger and have a brownish body with scattered black blotches and white spots, as well as a distinctive black throat and a black chest. Adult females have bright orange cheek patches and a black mark at the shoulder level.
A dazzlingly orange “Galapagos Sally Lightfoot Crab” at Barrington Bay, Santa Fe Island.
From the beach we hiked in small groups along a rocky trail, which climbed from the bay up to coastal cliffs which offered panoramic views of the cove.
Along the way, the trail passed over a plateau which is the best place to spot the endemic Santa Fe land iguana or Barrington land iguana which are uniquely beige in colour.
Santa Fe island is home to the endemic Santa Fe land iguana.
The main source of food for the iguana’s are the flowers and leaves of the giant prickly pear cactus which cover this barren island, a food source which is unfortunately being consumed at a less-than-sustainable rate.
“Fifty shades of beige!” – the Santa Fe land iguana is a common site on Santa Fe Island.
After the hike we returned to the beach where we snorkelled in the crystal-clear waters of Barrington Bay. The added attraction of snorkeling just offshore from a group of sea lions is that they are curious and friendly and will join you in the water – constantly swimming rings around you! Snorkelling with the playful sea lions was one of the highlights of the trip.
After an incredible morning on Santa Fe island, we returned to the ship for lunch while the boat sailed onto our afternoon destination, South Plaza island.
South Plaza Island
The MV Santa Cruz moored outside the channel on South Plaza island.
Following lunch on day 2, we travelled by dinghy to South Plaza Island where we made a dry landing at a small dock in a protected channel. The turquoise water in the channel was in stark contrast to the white sand and black lava of the shoreline.
As we made our way ashore, we were greeted by the sight of a Galápagos Sea lion mother who had just given birth to a young pup.
An opportunistic Yellow Warbler feasts on the discarded placenta from a newly born sea lion pup on South Plaza island.
While the mother was busy licking the placenta off the new-born pup, a couple of yellow-warblers were also busy feeding off the discarded placenta. In this arid, hostile environment, food is food!
An adolescent Galápagos Sea lion at South Plaza Island.
South Plaza is home to a large colony of 1000+ Galapagos sea lions, many of which are retired, battle scarred male sea lions who mingle with young adolescent males.
The yellow flowers of the Prickly-pear cactus are a favourite meal for Galapagos land iguanas on South Plaza Island.
From the dock, we hiked along an easy trail through a forest of Prickly Pear cacti which is a popular food source for the resident Galapagos land iguana (Conolophus subcristatus).
A very colourful Galapagos land iguana on South Plaza Island.
Land iguanas can grow to over a metre in length, with males weighing up to 13.6 kilograms! In terms of food, land iguanas eat low growing plants, shrubs, fallen fruits and cactus pads – these provide the necessary water to sustain them through drier periods.
A Galapagos land iguana on South Plaza Island.
While hiking, we met a team of American researchers who were studying the iguana and their diet. Apparently, their insatiable craving for the flower of the prickly pear cactus means the cactus is unable to reproduce, which threatens a key food source for the iguanas.
A Galapagos land iguana on South Plaza Island devouring a cactus.
The iguanas are over-consuming their main source of food, which could lead to its extinction, and thereby threatening their own survival!
A male Galapagos land iguana on South Plaza Island.
From the cactus forest, we passed patches of red-orange Galápagos carpet-weed before reaching sea cliffs where we could observe nesting Blue-footed boobies, Nazcar boobies, frigates, swallow-tailed gulls and shear-waters gliding on the thermals.
A Blue-footed Booby on South Plaza Island.
One of the more comical creatures in the Galapagos are the “boobies”, a species of birds whose name is derived from the Spanish word “bobo”, which translates to clumsy. This was because it referred to the comical way that boobies walk.
There are three different types of boobies in the Galapagos, the Red-footed Booby; Blue-footed Booby and the Nazca Booby, all of which are easily distinguished thanks to their distinctive colours.
A Galápagos Brown Pelican on South Plaza island.
Endemic to the islands, the Galápagos brown pelican is a common sight on South Plaza island. Its population is estimated at a few thousand pairs that breed throughout the year.
A Swallow-tailed gull on South Plaza island.
The Swallow-tailed gull is one of the most attractive and distinctive looking birds in the Galapagos islands. It has the distinction of being the world’s only nocturnal gull, using highly developed night vision to hunt in the dark.
The defining feature of a swallow-tailed gull is its eye ring, which changes colour depending on breeding status. Breeding adults can be recognised by their bright orange/red eye ring, while non-breeding adults have a black eye-ring.
A Swallow-tailed gull chick in its nest on South Plaza island.
Lazing on the lava rocks along the clifftop, basking in the afternoon sun, were groups of Marine iguanas. These unique creatures are the only lizard that’ll frequent the sea although they live on land, as they eat a diet consisting mainly of seaweed grown on the sides of rocks. It’s an abundant food source, to which their blunt heads are well-adapted.
Unlike the the land iguana, the marine iguana also has sharp claws which allows it to grab onto plant material while underwater.
Juvenile Marine iguanas are coloured black, slowly changing colour as they mature.
Marine iguanas change colour as they mature. The young are typically black, slowly picking up many colours when they age – red, green, grey, usually differing depending on the island they live on.
Day 3
Santa Cruz Island
Puerto Ayora
A Pelican lands his catch at the fish market in Puerto Ayora.
Day three was spent on the principal island of Santa Cruz, where we docked in downtown Puerto Ayora, which is located on the southern shore of the island. With a population of 12,000 – Puerto Ayora is the principal town in the Galápagos and is named in honour of Isidro Ayora, an Ecuadorian president.
A Galápagos Sea lion competes with Pelicans for fish scraps at the fish market in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island.
If you plan on basing yourself on land while in the Galapagos, Puerto Ayora offers the best range of services and facilities for tourists. We spent the morning exploring the town, including the fish market where sea lions and pelicans fought each other for scraps.
Galapagos Giant Tortoise
The Galapagos Giant tortoise, such as this one on Santa Cruz Island, can survive in different habitats, from dry lowlands to humid highlands.
A short walk from town is the Charles Darwin Research Station (CDRS), which is renown for its Galapagos Giant tortoise breeding program. The centre also serves as the headquarters for the Galápagos National park. The most famous resident of the centre was Lonesome George who was bought to the centre from Pinta Island. George was the last known individual of the ‘Pinta‘ tortoise species but died in 2012 at an estimated age of 100.
Weighing up to 400 kg (880 lb), the Galapagos Giant tortoise is the largest tortoise on the planet.
The Galápagos tortoises are native to seven of the Galápagos Islands. With lifespans in the wild of over 100 years, it is one of the longest-lived vertebrates. Spanish explorers, who discovered the islands in the 16th century, named them after the Spanish Galápago, meaning “tortoise”.
The current total population of Galapagos Giant tortoises is estimated to be 20,000 individuals.
The Galapagos Giant tortoise loves to feed on grass which is plentiful in the lush highlands of Santa Cruz island.
For lunch, we headed to a restaurant located in the lush, cool highlands of Santa Cruz, a completely different ecosystem from any we had so far seen.
The highlands contain mist-covered forests, underground lava tunnels and the Rancho Primicias Tortoise Reserve, which is home to a number of wandering Galapagos Giant tortoises.
The Galapagos Giant tortoise moves at an average a speed of 0.18 miles per hour.
Lava Tunnel
A perfect construction by Mother Nature – a lava tunnel on Santa Cruz Island.
After Rancho Primicias Tortoise Reserve, we descended into an amazing subterranean world – a lava tunnel. Huge underground lava tunnels perforate Santa Cruz, and in places extend for several kilometres.
Exploring a perfectly formed lava tunnel on Santa Cruz Island.
Like all islands in the Galapagos, Santa Cruz is volcanic in origin. The tunnels, or tubes, were formed when cooler outer parts of lava flows hardened into thick rock walls, providing insulation to keep a flow going inside; eventually the flow subsided, leaving long, perfectly shaped, empty tunnels easily big enough to walk down.
Galápagos wild tomatoes growing in the highlands of Santa Cruz Island.
Before sunset we returned to the ship for dinner then set an overnight course to Española island, 100-km to the south.
Day 4
The morning of day four brought us to the very southern island of Española. We spent the entire day on the island, making two landings; a morning landing at Punta Suarez and an afternoon landing at Gardener Bay.
Punta Suarez (Española Island)
Wildlife everywhere at Punta Suarez, with an Española Mockingbird standing on top of a marine iguana and a Nazcar booby in the background.
After breakfast we travelled by dinghy to Punta Suarez, which is located on the western tip of Española Island. Truly remote, Punta Suarez offers a bonanza of wildlife with colonies of blue-footed and Nazca boobies nesting in among a multitude of Galapagos sea lions, large marine iguanas, oystercatchers, Española Mockingbirds, lava lizards and the impressive Galapagos hawk.
An Española Mockingbird at Punta Suarez, Española Island.
Endemic to Española Island, the Española Mockingbird is very inquisitive and has almost no fear of people. Lone birds or small groups race around beaches boldly inspecting almost everything they encounter including shells, sea lions, marine iguanas, cameras, and anything else you might leave laying around. This feathered mischief also feeds off of bugs carried on the backs of iguanas and can often be seen perched on top of one.
An Española Lava lizard, sunning itself at Punta Suarez.
The warm sands on the beach at Punta Suarez attract the endemic Española Lava Lizard which is one of nine species of lava lizards endemic to the Galapagos Islands.
A Blue-footed Booby at Punta Suarez.
From the beach, a walking trail of about 4 km (2 miles) in length passes among colonies of blue-footed and Nazca boobies. From May to December, the island serves as a nesting site for Albatross, although none were present during our visit.
A Nazca Booby mother preening her chick at Punta Suarez, Española Island.
At the time of our visit, several, new-born, Nazca chicks were being tended to by their mothers. The largest out of the three booby species, and arguably the most handsome, the Nazca booby was previously thought to be a subspecies of the masked booby, but recently considered as a separate species.
A male Nazca Booby at Punta Suarez, Española Island.
Male Nazca boobies have yellow or orange beaks, while the female’s beak is far paler and has a more pinkish tone, while Nazca chicks have black beaks.
A very fluffy Nazca Booby chick at Punta Suarez, Española Island.
During breeding season, the female will often lay two eggs rather than one. This is because Nazca boobies undergo an unusual process called obligate siblicide. The process occurs when one of the two siblings hatched grows larger and stronger than the other. As a result, the smaller and weaker chick will be killed and removed from the nest.
A male Nazca Booby with his fluffy young chick at Punta Suarez, Española Island.
The walking trail ending at a plateau with fantastic views of coastal cliffs and a blowhole known as “El Soplador” (the blower) which sprays water some 25 metres (75 feet) into the air.
A view of the coastline of Española Island and “El Soplador” (the blower) which sprays water some 25 metres (75 feet) into the air.
Española Island is located in the extreme southeast of the Galapagos archipelago, about a 12-hour boat trip from Santa Cruz Island. Along with Santa Fe Island, Española Island is considered to be one of the oldest of the Galapagos islands, at approximately four million years.
The climate of the island is very dry, and – due to its flatness – receives only a few centimetres of rain per year.
A view of the rugged coastline of Española Island with a smaller blow hole in the distance.
From the cliffs, we had an aerial view of the many rock pools below. In one of those pools, a marine iguana could be seen swimming from one side to another, giving a ride to a hitchhiking Galapagos Sally Lightfoot crab. Truly survival of the fittest!
Truly bizarre! A Galápagos Sally Lightfoot crab hitches a ride on the back of a Marine Iguana on Española Island.
As if riding on its back wasn’t intrusive enough, the crab eventually perched itself on the head of the iguana.
A Galápagos Sally Lightfoot crab hitching a ride on the head of a Marine Iguana on Española Island.
Why this unusual behaviour? The Sally Lightfoot Crab primarily eats algae but is also known to dine on dead critters, organic trash, and more. In the Galapagos Islands, these crabs have a symbiotic relationship with the native marine iguanas, picking parasites off the iguanas for food while the iguanas get clean.
A highly coloured individual of the Marine Iguana subspecies endemic to Española Island.
The Galápagos marine iguana, is a species of iguana found only on the Galápagos Islands and is unique among modern lizards, in that it is a marine reptile that has the ability to forage in the sea for algae, which makes up almost all of its diet.
Large males are able to dive to find this food source, while females and smaller males feed during low tide in the intertidal zone. The subspecies found on Española Island (A. c. venustissimus) is especially colourful and is known as the ‘Christmas tree’ iguana.
After our morning excursion on Española Island, we returned to the ship for lunch then cruised further along the island to our afternoon stop – Gardener Bay.
Gardener Bay (Española Island)
Sea lions bask lazily on Gardner Bay, a white-sand beach which is one of the longest in Galapagos.
Located on the north coast of Española Island, stunning Gardener Bay is home to one of the longest stretches of (powder white) sand in the Galapagos.
There are no walking trails at Gardener Bay so, after making a wet landing onto the white-sand beach (one of the longest in the Galápagos), we were free to relax, swim or wander.
A view of the MV Santa Cruz from Gardener Bay, Española Island.
The beach is a perfect spot for snorkeling, and its possible to snorkel out to the smaller Tortuga Islet (Turtle Rock), a small island which sits offshore from the bay and is surrounded by an array of marine life. While I snorkelled, playful and curious sea lions swam around me – an incredible experience.
Galápagos Sea lions relaxing on the beach at Gardener Bay with Tortuga Islet (Turtle Rock) in the background.
One of the main attractions of Gardener Bay is the large colony of Galapagos sea lions which haul out on the pristine, white-sand beach.
The Galapagos sea lion is a species that primarily breeds in the Galapagos Islands. They are one of two types of seal found in Galapagos and are part of the eared seal family – having external ear pinnae.
A Galápagos Sea Lion pup feeding at Gardener Bay on Española Island.
They are not ‘true’ seals, as they are able to rotate their hind flipper under their pelvic girdle and lack the characteristic long, finger-like claws of true seals. The configuration of their pelvic girdle allows them to ‘gallop’ across land, reaching speeds exceeding that of a running person on rocky terrain.
The poorly camouflaged Galápagos Sally Lightfoot crab at Gardener Bay.
The basalt rocks at Gardner Bay are the favoured haunt for the very orange Galápagos Sally Lightfoot crab. The origin of their name is still debated but some say it was named after a Caribbean dancer which would be fitting for a creature that is very nimble and light on its feet. These guys can out-manoeuvre almost anything.
At sunset, we returned to the boat for our final dinner and an evening of drinks and entertainment by the crew. Overnight we cruised north to Baltra Island – ready for our disembarkation the following day.
Day 5
On the last day we landed on Baltra island and were transferred to Baltra airport where we boarded our flight back to the mainland.
The end of an amazing adventure.
Accommodation
While in the islands, you have a choice of being accommodated on land or at sea or both.
Land
Land-based accommodation can be found on 4 different islands with ample properties catering for all budgets.
Santa Cruz Island – Lots of accommodation options in the main town of Puerto Ayora, which is located one hour from neighbouring Baltra island and Baltra airport.
San Cristóbal Island – The provincial capital of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is next to San Cristóbal airport and has a good selection of accommodation, especially backpacker hostels.
Isabela Island – The islands main settlement ofPuerto Villamil is located on its south-eastern shore, two hours south-west of Puerto Ayora by speedboat. This town of 2,000 souls offers a small number of accommodation options.
Floreana island – Located two hours south of Puerto Ayora by speedboat, this island of 300 inhabitants contains a small collection of beach-side guest houses with Wittmer Lodge (home to the pioneering Wittmer family – among the first foreign settlers in the Galápagos) being the most notable.
Hotels can be booked using OTA’s (Online Travel Agents) such as booking.com or Airbnb. Another good resource is the Hotels page on the Galapagos Islands website.
Sea
The best way to maximise your time whilst in the region is to travel by cruise ship. Travelling by ship allows you to venture to more remote islands without needing to return to a land base at the end of each day. An additional convenience is that most of the long sea voyages are completed overnight while you sleep in your cosy cabin, allowing you to awake each morning to a filling breakfast before setting out to explore another magical, wildlife-filled island.
I travelled with Metropolitan Touring and would highly recommend them, however there are many other companies offering cruise ship experiences, many of which are listed on the Galapagos Islands website.
Eating Out
If you’re staying on land you will find no shortage of restaurants in Puerto Ayora and a more limited number of options on San Cristóbal, Isabela and Floreana islands.
If you’re travelling by cruise ship you will be on a full board package. Meals on the MV Santa Cruz were served in a semi-formal dining room, were always plentiful and included a ‘fine-dining’ dinner each evening. If it wasn’t for the twice daily hikes, I would have gained weight from all the amazing food.
Visa Requirements
Ecuadorian Passport Stamp.
Ecuadorian immigration formalities are taken care of on the mainland and the good news is that the visa policy of Ecuador is one of the most lenient in the world, with almost all nationalities being granted a 90-day stay upon arrival.
Getting There
Air
The Ecuadorian metropolis of Guayaquil is the gateway to the Galápagos Islands.
There are two airports serving the Galápagos islands – San Cristóbal and Baltra. There are no direct international flights to the islands, with all flights departing from the Ecuadorian capital of Quito and the coastal metropolis of Guayaquil. Three airlines offer daily flights (2 hours) from the mainland to the islands, providing easy access to this remote archipelago.
San Cristóbal Airport
Located on the island of the same name, San Cristóbal Airport (IATA: SCY) is one of two gateways to the islands, lying in the south-east of the archipelago.
The following airlines provide services to/ from San Cristóbal:
Avianca Ecuador (AeroGal) – flies to/ from Guayaquil and Quito
Seymour Airport – aka Baltra Airport – (IATA: GPS) is located on the island of the same name and is a one-hour journey from downtown Puerto Ayora on neighbouring Santa Cruz.
The following airlines provide services to/ from Baltra:
Avianca Ecuador (AeroGal) – flies to/ from Guayaquil and Quito
Given the fragile ecosystem of the Galápagos, the government has taken several measures to help conserve the Islands’ ecology and to control migration to the province.
Prior to checking in for your flight at Quito or Guayaquil airports, you will first need to report to the INGALA counter where you will be required to complete a form and pay USD$10 for the issue of an INGALA Transit Control Card. This card is designed to help control migration to the islands and is to be surrendered upon departure from the islands.
After being issued with your INGALA card, you then proceed to the SICGAL(Galápagos quarantine) inspection area, where your luggage will be checked to ensure you are not carrying anything organic to the islands. Once you have completed this screening process you proceed to the airline counter to check in for your flight.
Once you’re in the air, the flight attendants will spray the cabin with an insecticide to further reduce the chance of introducing unwanted bugs to the islands.
Upon arrival in the Galápagos, you’re required to step on a wet mat (which sterilises the soles of your shoes) prior to exiting the airport.
Galápagos National Park Fees
When you arrive at the airport in the Galápagos all tourists are required to pay a National Park Entrance Fee which currently costs USD$100 for foreign adults and USD$50 for children under 12 years of age.
Getting Around
Air
Inter-island flights are operated by Emetebewho provide connections between San Cristobal, Baltra (for Santa Cruz) and Isabela islands.
Sea
The MV Santa Cruz approaching Punta Pitt, San Cristóbal island.
Ferry Galapagos offers inter-island ferry services between Santa Cruz and the islands of Isabela, Floreana and San Cristóbal.
That’s the end of my Galápagos Islands Travel guide.
Once a favoured hedonistic destination for American celebrities and socialites, Cuba had a reputation as an exotic and permissive playground.
In the early 20th century, Cuba’s ideal tropical beaches attracted the American masses who could purchase cheap package tours from Florida, which included round-trip tickets from Miami, hotel, food and entertainment.
Colourful houses line the cobbled streets of the quant old town of Trinidad.
The island also attracted famous celebrities such as Ava Gardner, Frank Sinatra andErnest Hemingway, who loved Cuba so much he relocated to Havana.
Children playing in Plaza José Martí in Cienfuegos.
The party ended in 1959 when a young Fidel Castro, having overthrown the corrupt President – Fulgencio Batista, came to power, installed a communist government and promptly destroyed all symbols of the hedonistic past, including casino’s and resorts.
This effectively ended tourism in Cuba with visitor numbers plummeting from 350,000 visitor’s in 1957 to 4,000 in 1961.
Young girls in Sancti Spiritus.
In 1963, the United States government delivered the final blow by enacting the trade and travel embargo (still in place today), closing off the popular Caribbean playground to Americans.
Souvenir Cuba flag license plates on sale in Havana old town.
Under the Obama administration there was a thaw in relations and a hope that the embargo would finally be lifted by congress. President Trump, through a series of initiatives, is now working to reverse the progress made under Obama, including a tightening of the trade embargo.
With a population of almost 12 million, Cuba is the most populous nation in the Caribbean and, with an area of 109,884 km2 (42,426 square miles), is the largest Caribbean island.
Most Cubans are employed by the state, earning an average salary of US$20 per month. This meagre wage is offset (somewhat) by the distribution of Ration books, which provide families with a variety of essentials at heavily subsided prices.
Despite the hardships of everyday life, Cubans are generally gregarious, happy, hospitable, outgoing and vivacious. They have a great sense of humour, are highly educated, and love their music, dancing and rum.
School children in Havana old town.
In 2016, Cuba attracted a record four million tourists, many of them arriving on cruise ships, carrying US passports. Cruise ship arrivals increased from 24 in 2012 to 139 in 2015.
The Ministry of tourism has forecast more exponential growth in the coming years, all thanks to an increase in visitors from the United States. Despite the setbacks from the current US administration, the floodgates have been opened and American tourists are once again flocking to this Caribbean jewel.
Young girl in the old town of Trinidad.
Location
Havana, Cuba
A bastion of socialism lying 90 miles south of a bastion of capitalism! Cuba is located in the Caribbean Sea,at the confluence of the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean.
Cuba is an archipelago consisting of more than 4,000 islands and cays, with almost everyone and everything located on the main island of Cuba.
The United States lies across the Straits of Florida, with Key West just 90 miles north of Havana. Other neighbouring countries include the Bahamas– 21 kilometres (13 miles) to the north, Haiti – 77 kilometres (48 miles) to the east, Jamaica– 140 kilometres (87 miles) southeast and the Cayman Islands – 437 kilometres (272 miles) to the south.
History
The ceiling fresco Revolucion in the Museo de la Revolucion, Havana.
Like so many other Caribbean islands, the history of Cuba can be broken into a pre-Colombian period, a colonial period, and a period of independence.
Pre-Colombian Era
Cuba was first settled around 3,000 BC by the nativeGuanajatabey, who lived for centuries on the island, until the arrival of waves of migrants from the east – including the powerful native Indian Taíno.
The Taíno originally entered the Caribbean from South America and at the time of Columbus’ arrival they occupied most of the islands in the Caribbean. These original settlerswere agricultural specialists and gave Cuba its name, which translates as either “where fertile land is abundant” (Cubao), or a “great place” (Coabana).
Once settled, theydivided Cuba into29 chiefdoms, forcing the remaining Guanajatabey to the far western end of the island – into the area which is now Pinar del Rio province.
When Columbus arrived and claimed Cuba for Spain, the Spanish used the existing Taíno settlements as the sites for their future colonial cities, retaining the original Taíno names in places such as Havana, Camagüey and Baracoa,
Colonial Cuba
Christopher Columbus was the first European to discover Cuba, arriving from the Bahamas during his first voyage to the New World in 1492. Columbus was looking for a route to India and believed Cuba was part of Asia.
During his second voyage in 1494, he mapped the south-east coast but the entire island was not fully mapped until 1509. In 1511 the Spanish sailed from Hispaniola to Cuba to establish their first settlement at Baracoa.
The Spanish faced stiff resistance from the well organised Taíno’s which led to 3 years of conflict. Once the chieftains had been captured (and burnt alive) the Spanish gained control of the island and in 1514 established a settlement in what was to become Havana.
The Spanish Crown installed Diego Velázquez de Cuéllar as the first governor of Cuba – originally residing in Baracoa then later Havana. The Spanish turned the island into an agricultural powerhouse, importing an army of slaves to work on sugarcane plantations. Tobacco plantations employed ‘free’ slaves as the work was considered delicate and was not suited to someone working under ‘forced’ conditions.
As Cuba became more prosperous, so too it become a frequent target of attack from other colonial powers – notably the British, who managed to occupy Havana for a brief period in 1762, before returning it to Spain in exchange for Florida.
A series of rebellions during the 19th century failed to end Spanish rule. However, theSpanish–American War resulted in a Spanish withdrawal from the island in 1898. The US military occupied the island for three-and-a-half years before the country gained independence in 1902.
Independent Cuba
In the years following its independence, the Cuban economy flourished but was prone to political corruption and was ruled by a succession of despotic leaders. Into the fray stepped a young revolutionary – Fidel Castro who managed to overthrow of the ruling dictator Fulgencio Batista on the 1st of January 1959.
Flag
The flag of Cuba.
The national flag of Cuba consists of five alternating stripes (three blue and two white) and a red equilateral triangle at the hoist, within which is a white five-pointed star. It was designed in 1849 and officially adopted on the 20th of May, 1902.
A Cuban flag in Trinidad old town.
Puerto Rican v Cuban Flag
It’s no mistake that the flag of Puerto Rico is identical in design to the Cuban flag, except that the colours are inverted. The revolutionaries who designed the Puerto Rican flag were ‘brothers-in-arms‘ with their Cuban counterparts, especially Jose Marti, who approved the design for the newly independent state.
The flag of Puerto Rico.
¡Viva la Revolución!
Fidel Castro
A propaganda painting in Havana’s Museo de la Revolucion celebrates the overthrow of former President Bautista by Fidel Castro.
Fidel Alejandro Castro Ruz was born into a rich Spanish farming family in Cuba. During his years of studying law at the University of Havana he adopted leftist anti-imperialist politics.
Following his studies, he participating in rebellions against right-wing governments in the Dominican Republic and Colombia, after which he planned to overthrow the Cuban President Fulgencio Batista. His first attempt failed when he launched a failed attack on the Moncada Barracks in 1953 (see ‘Sights – Santiago de Cuba‘ below).
After the attack he was thrown into prison, after which he relocated to Mexico where he formed a revolutionary group, the 26th of July Movement, with his brother Raúl Castro and Che Guevara.
Upon his return to Cuba, Castro played a key role in the Cuban Revolution by leading the Movement in a guerrilla war against Batista’s forces. In 1959 the revolution prevailed and Batista was overthrown.
After the coup, Castro consolidated his power by brutally marginalising other resistance groups and imprisoning and executing opponents and dissident supporters.
This led to an exodus of hundreds of thousands of Cubans who fled the island for the United States (90 miles to the north). Today there are more than two million Cubans living in the United States – mainly in Florida.
Castro passed away on the 25th of November 2016.
Che Guevara
A portrait of Ernesto “Che” Guevara at the Museum of the Revolution in Havana.
Born in Argentina, Ernesto “Che” Guevarafirst met Fidel Castro in Mexico in 1955 and decided immediately to join the Cuban revolutionary cause.
He returned to Cuba with Fidel aboard the Granma and was instrumental in training new recruits for the revolution. After the revolution succeeded, he assumed several key roles in the government including that of statesmen which saw him travel the world as a representative of the Cuban government, including a visit to the United Nations in New York City in 1964 where he gave an hour-long speech.
A video of the speech given to the United Nations by Ernesto “Che” Guevara.
Life as a bureaucrat was never easy for a restless revolutionary and so in 1965, Che wrote a farewell letter to Fidel Castro in which he affirmed his solidarity with the revolution and also resigned from all his positions in the Cuban government and communist party, and renounced his honorary Cuban citizenship.
In 1965, Che dropped out of public life and journeyed (incognito) to the Congo to join the revolution there – a revolution which failed soon after due to (in the words of Guevara) “the incompetence, intransigence and infighting among the Congolese rebels”.
A souvenir shop in Trinidad old town features the popular image of Ernesto “Che” Guevara.
In 1966, Che (who had now altered his image) arrived in Laz Paz to assist the Bolivian revolution. On the 8th of October 1967, two battalions of Bolivian soldiers (assisted by the CIA) conducted a raid on his remote compound at which point he was captured. The following day, fearing he would escape, the Bolivian president – René Barrientos– gave the order to execute him.
The remains of Che laid in an unmarked mass grave beside an airstrip in Vallegrande, Bolivia until 1997. After being identified, they were flown to Cuba where they were laid to rest with military honours in a specially built mausoleum in the city of Santa Clara – a city in which Che had led a decisive military victory during the Cuban revolution.
Government
A painting depicting El Capitolio, the national Capitol building in Havana.
Cuba is an independent socialist republic, which is constitutionally defined as a “socialist state guided by the principles of José Martí, and the political ideas of Marx, Engels and Lenin.” The present Constitution also ascribes the role of the Communist Party of Cuba to be the “leading force of society and of the state.”
Executive power is exercised by the Government, which is represented by the Council of State and the Council of Ministers. Legislative power is exercised through the unicameral National Assembly of People’s Power, which is constituted as the maximum authority of the state.
Locals, lining up to buy orange soda, which had just arrived at a shop in downtown Sancti Spiritus.
Apart from the Communist party, there are no legally recognized political parties in Cuba. The communist party controls all aspects of life in Cuba, including almost 100% of the economy.
Among the most conspicuous of socialism’s failings is its capacity to generate vast shortages of things essential for life. This is a universal feature of a socialist “economy,” and it always has been, from the former Soviet Union to China, North Korea and Eastern Europe.
Likewise, in Cuba, food shortages, long lines outside grocery stores, and a complete lack of choice once inside the store, are part of daily life.
While I was walking through the old town of Sancti Spiritus, a buzz was created outside one grocery store when it was revealed that a pallet of Cuba’s version of Fanta had been delivered. Locals lined-up around the corner, waiting for their chance to purchase as many bottles as possible.
Currently Raúl Castro — brother of former President Fidel Castro — is President of the Council of State, President of the Council of Ministers, First Secretary of the Communist Party, and Commander-in-Chief of the Revolutionary Armed Forces.
Currency
Che Guevara adorns this 3-peso bank note, which I purchased from a currency dealer on Plaza de Armas in Havana old town.
The currency of Cuba is the Peso, with two different Peso’s currently in circulation – the CUC and the CUP. The CUC is a convertible peso used by tourists while the CUP is the national peso (moneda nacional) used by Cubans. The exchange rate between the two is fixed at 1 CUC = 25 CUP, while USD $1 = 1 CUC.
Most Cuban state workers receive their wages in national pesos and, with an average salary of US$20 per month, prices in CUP are generally very reasonable.
Shops which sell everyday products to Cubans only accept payment in CUP while imported ‘luxuries’ or foreign branded products are sold in “Dollar shops” in CUC. Anything sold to tourist’s is priced in CUC.
Internet
Internet surfing at Plaza José Martí in downtown Cienfuegos.
There’s no better place to be offline than Cuba, where internet is restricted, expensive and tediously slow.
To access the web, you first need to purchase a scratch-off ‘NAUTA‘ card from any office of the national telecom’s provider – Etesca. Cards cost CUC 2 and are valid for one hour of access, with customers able to purchase up to three cards at a time.
Etesca branches are famous for their long, snaking, slow queues. If you are faced with a long wait, you can try to purchase cards from touts who sell them for a small profit at the local WiFi spot or alternately, you can ask at the reception desk of larger hotels.
With almost two million Cubans living in the United States, Wi-Fi spots throughout the country, such as this one at Plaza Jose Marti in Cienfuegos, are always busy with families keeping in touch.
Once you have your card you need to locate the nearest WiFi spot, which is normally in the main square of each town and is easily found due to the ever-present hoard of locals gathered around using their smartphones to message/ call relatives overseas.
Etesca maintain a nationwide directory of 508 WiFi spots on their website.
Rum
Havana Club is Cuba’s most popular rum export.
As beer is to the Germans, wine to the French and a good cup of tea to the British – so Rum is to the Cubans. Along with cigars, rum is a core part of Cuba’s national identity.
You couldn’t visit Havana without visiting the Museo del Ron Havana Club (Havana Club Rum museum). Located in Havana old town, the museum includes displays which outline the history and production of rum in Cuba.
History
Rum is made from sugarcane, a crop that the Spanish introduced to the Americas after Columbus’ discovery in 1492. The first rum was produced on the Caribbean island of Barbados during the 17th century when plantation slaves discovered that molasses, a by-product of the sugar refining process, could be fermented into alcohol.
This was a good development since a pound of molasses (then treated as a waste product) was produced for every two pounds of sugar – islands which were awash in this sticky goo now had a profitable use for it!
The best place to buy cigars and rum in Cienfuegos is the “Casa del Habano – El Embajador‘”.
As refining techniques improved and the world acquired a taste for rum, other sugar-producing islands developed their own rum distilleries – including Cuba, which was a Spanish colony at the time. Cuba’s fertile soil and sticky climate proved ideal for growing many agricultural products including sugarcane.
While English colonies in the Caribbean produced bolder, darker rums and French colonies produced agricultural rums (rhum agricole), which retained more of the flavour from the sugar cane, Spanish colonies traditionally produced añejo(‘vintage’ or ‘aged’) rums, which are characterised by a smoother, more subtle taste. The tradition of añejorums is all due to a request from the Spanish Crown for spirits which were more delicate in flavour.
By the late 1800’s, there were two major rum-distilling families in Cuba: the Bacardi’s and the Arechabala’s (who founded Havana Club). In 1960, following the Cuban revolution, Fidel Castro’s regime “nationalised” all Cuban companies, including these families’ distilleries.
This forced the families into exile, with the Bacardi’s fleeing to Puerto Rico. The family had anticipated the nationalisation move and had already moved their intellectual property, and most importantly, their valuable yeast strain out of Cuba.
Despite its exile, visitors to Cuba can today visit the former Bacardi headquarters in Havana, the very ornate, art deco – Edificio Bacardi (Bacardi Building) – which offers panoramic views of the old town from its rooftop. In Santiago de Cuba,you can view the original Bacardi factory from the street.
The Arechabala family, who had not anticipated the nationalisation program, and hence were not able to start up production outside of Cuba, fled to the United States.
Today Havana Club is produced in Cuba and sold globally (except the United States) through a joint venture between the Cuban government and Pernod Ricard.
A Quaffable Trio
The three most popular Cuban cocktails are all rum-based.
Three of the world’s most popular rum cocktails were born in Cuba – the Mojito, Cuba Libre and the Daiquiri.
Mojito
The national cocktail of Cuba, the Mojito, served at the Bacardi Rum museum in Santiago de Cuba.
Available at worthwhile bars around the world (and one of my favourite drinks) – the Mojito was originally born in Havana although its exact origin is subject to debate.
One story claims the drink was developed in the 1500’s when the famed English privateer – Sir Francis Drake – landed in Havana in order to sack the city of its gold.
While the invasion was unsuccessful, an associate of Drake created an early version of the Mojito, which he named El Draque, using rum, sugar, lime and mint.
Mojito’s have always been a popular drink and have been immortalised in popular culture, including in 2002 in the James Bond film Die Another Day.
Mojito Recipe
Ingredients
2 oz. white rum
1/2 oz. of freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teaspoon of superfine sugar
3 mint leaves
Soda water
Collins glass (tall glass)
Directions
1. In a Collins glass – mash the lime juice with the sugar.
2. Add the mint leaves, mushing them against the side of the glass.
3. Fill the glass 2/3 with ice then pour in the rum and stir gently.
4. Add the squeezed-out lime wedges and top off with soda water.
Cuba Libre
A simple mix of rum, coke and lime juice served on ice, the “Cuba Libre” (Free Cuba) originated in Cuba in the early 20th century after the country won its independence from Spain.
American soldiers, celebrating victory after the Spanish-American War, requested their Coca-Cola be mixed with Cuban rum. They toasted to a free Cuba, thereby creating the original Cuba Libre which is today one of the world’s most popular alcoholic drinks.
Daiquiri
The word Daiquiricomes from the Taino (native Indian) language and is the name of a village located a short distance from Santiago de Cuba.
During the early 20th century, an American mine engineer – Jennings Cox – was working at an Iron mine near to Daiquiri when he ran out of gin while entertaining American guests. He instead served local rum but added lime juice and sugar to improve the rum’s taste. The Daiquiri – one of the world’s most popular cocktails – was born!
Cigars
Montecristo Cigars, on sale at the factory shop in Havana (CUC5.55 = USD$5.55).
History
The origins of cigar smoking are unknown, but what is known is that people have enjoyed smoking them for centuries. Depictions of Mayan Indians smoking cigars can be found on pottery-ware dating back a thousand years. It’s possible the word Cigar is derived from the Mayan word for smoking – Sikar.
What is known is that Christopher Columbus and his men encountered tobacco for the first time in 1492 on the island of Hispaniola (present day Haiti and Dominican Republic – click links to read my reports for these destinations) when natives presented them with some dried leaves.
At the time of Columbus’ arrival, tobacco plants were widely diffused among all of the islands of the Caribbean, including on Cuba, where Columbus settled with his men. The word cohíba(today a famous brand of Cuban cigar)derives from the native Taino word for ‘tobacco‘.
Cigars are integral to the Cuban identity.
In time, European sailors in the Caribbean acquired a taste for tobacco which later became popular in Europe and the rest is history.
As the demand for tobacco increased, farms were established in the Caribbean with the first commercial farm being created by the Spanish on Cuba in 1542. In 1592, a Spanish galleon carried 50 kilograms (110 lb) of tobacco seed to the Philippines (then the Spanish East-Indies), marking the introduction of the crop into Asia.
As with sugarcane, the soil and climate of Cuba proved ideal for growing tobacco. Initially the most popular export from Cuba was sugar, however, as tobacco’s popularity increased, the export percentages switched and tobacco became the number one export out of Cuba.
The Cohíba brand was created by Fidel Castro with cigars supplied to party elites and foreign dignitaries.
Cigar Production
Today, tobacco is Cuba’s 3rd largest export item with the western-most province of Pinar del Rio being the principle growing region. Famous Cuban cigar brands include Cohíba, Montecristo, Partagás, Romeo Y Julieta and Bolivar.
An advertisement for Romeo y Julieta cigars in Havana.
The Cohíba brand was created by Fidel Castro as a superior brand of cigar to be enjoyed by party elites. The cigars proved popular and were soon being presented to foreign dignitaries and statesmen as gifts.
The cigars were then made available to the public during the 1982 Football World cup in Spain and have been on the market ever since, available everywhere – except the United States.
Habanos S.A.– an arm of the Cuban state tobacco company, controls the promotion, distribution, and export of Cuban cigars worldwide.
Classic American Cars in Cuba
There are lots of classic American cars to be found on the streets of Cuba, such as this red beauty in Havana old town.
Prior to the revolution in 1959, most cars imported into Cuba were manufactured in the United States. American cars were imported into Cuba for about 50 years, beginning near the early 20th century.
After the Cuban Revolution, the U.S. embargo was enacted by the US congress, and, to spite the US, Fidel Castro banned the importation of American cars and mechanical parts.
An ornate building in Havana old town is reflected off the polish hood of a Buick.
With little car imports, little choice and now meagre salaries, Cubans who owned these American classics were forced to keep them in good working order using whatever parts they could.
The interior of an American classic car in Havana old town.
Currently, it’s estimated that there are around 60,000 classic American cars in Cuba, with 50% of those cars hailing from the 1950s, and 25% each from the 1940s and 1930s. I once rode in a taxi in Holguin which was manufactured in 1948!
Spend any time travelling in Cuba and you’ll find yourself riding in an array of auto relics from a bygone era.
A hood ornament on a classic American car in Havana old town.
Since the embargo prohibits the importation of parts from the United States, these classic cars have been kept on the road using Cuban ingenuity, with many cars fitted with Russian parts, including Soviet-era engines.
An immaculately maintained Bel-Air classic-car taxi in Havana.
Since the revolution, most cars imported into Cuba have been Russian-made Ladas. More recently, Chinese models such as Geelys have become popular.
With the government controlling the car market, and setting astronomically high prices for new cars, the survival of American classic cars in Cuba is assured.
Havana Classic Cars Taxi Tours
Pick your colour! American classic car taxi’s available for hire at Parque Central in Havana old town.
Visitors to Cuba can take driving tours in classic American cars, especially in Havana old town where drivers congregate on one side of Parque Central, opposite the Hotel Inglaterra.
Interior view of an American classic car taxi in Havana old town.
Many of the taxis are convertibles, which are perfect for cruising the streets and taking photos. Taxi tours cost around 25 CUC (US$25) per hour and can be pre-booked here.
American classic car taxi’s available for hire at Parque Central in Havana old town.
Beautifully maintained American classic car taxis at Parque Central in Havana old town.
Sightseeing
A florist in Havana old town.
With 70% of its population living in cities, Cuba is a largely urban nation, with most cities comprised of a colonial old town at their core.
The post-revolution (1959) years have been characterised by a distinct lack of development, leaving most of these cities as charming time capsules. During my time on the island, I explored seven of these enchanting cities which are described in this section.
Havana
Havana Old Town
A treasure trove of Spanish-era colonial architecture, Plaza Vieja, in Havana old town, dates from 1559.
Havana(Spanish: La Habana), is the throbbing heart of Cuba. It’s the capital city, largest city (population: 2.1 million), main aviation and maritime hub and leading commercial centre. At its heart, the charming Habana Vieja (Havana old town) is the main tourist draw.
A view of Plaza Vieja in Havana old town, which is home to a lively craft beer bar and non-stop salsa music.
With a history stretching back 500 years, the old town is brimming with Spanish-colonial architecture and, after 50 years of neglect, is slowly, and carefully, being renovated.
Havana old town has suffered through 50 years of post-revolution neglect but is slowly being renovated.
Walking the streets of the enchanting old town, you can feel the history around you.
Plaza de la Catedral
The historic Havana Cathedral is located on Plaza de Catedral in Havana old town.
Havana old town is comprised of numerous grand squares, which can best be described as jewels of colonial architecture. The Plaza de la Catedral is anchored by the ornate Havana Cathedral.
There’s no shortage of opulent interiors in Havana old town.
Experimental Graphics Workshop
An artist preparing his next masterpiece at the Taller Experimental de Grafica in Havana old town.
Located at the end of a short cul-de-sac, around the corner from Havana cathedral, the Taller Experimental de Grafica is one of Havana’s most cutting-edge art workshops. Local artists create abstract works of art using old-time printing presses.
A newly pressed piece of art (which I purchased) at the Taller Experimental de Grafica in Havana old town.
Artworks can be purchased and art glasses can be arranged in advance.
Plaza de Armas
Of the many squares in Havana old town, the main square, Plaza de Armas, is flanked by historic buildings and museums and is always alive with musicians, booksellers and arts and crafts vendors.
The façade of the historic Hotel Santa Isabel which lies on the Plaza des Armas in the heart of Havana old town.
On the eastern side Plaza de Armas is the Palacio De Los Capitanes Generales which is the former official residence of the Governors of Havana. The Palace today houses the Museo de la Ciudad(Museum of the City of Havana).
A snack vendor on the Plaza de Armas in Havana old town.
Lining the squares are cathedrals, old mansions which have been converted into museums, galleries, shop’s, restaurant’s, cafe’s, bar’s, and always – music. The music never stops in the old town, there’s always a band playing somewhere and there are lots of venues where you can dance salsa through the night.
Souvenir sellers can be found peddling old Cuban stamps and Cuban currency on Plaza de Armas.
Ernest Hemingway
A plaque outside room #511 at Hotel Ambos Mundos which Hemingway occupied from 1932 to 1939.
If you’re a Hemingway fan, you can visit his former room at the Hotel Ambos Mundos which is located on Plaza de Armas.
Ernest Hemingway’s room at the Hotel Ambos Mundos in Havana old town.
The legendary author rented room #511 from 1932 to 1939 for the cost of US$1.50 per night. During his time here, we wrote For Whom the Bells Toll. Today, his hotel room is presented as if the author might have left it.
Museo de la Revolución
The sweeping dome inside the Museo de la Revolución in Havana old town.
Of the many museums in the city, the Museo de la Revolución (Museum of the Revolution) is the one place where you can gain an understanding of the events which led to the Cuban revolution and the rise of the cult of Fidel Castro.
This museum is set in the former Presidential Palace, constructed between 1913 and 1920 and used by a string of Cuban presidents, culminating in Fulgencio Batista.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
Symbolic artwork, with Cuba defeating the USA in a boxing match, at the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes in Havana.
Next door, the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (National Museum of Fine Arts) provides a comprehensive display of Cuban art – both old and contemporary.
Parque Central
A statue of José Martí in Parque Central with the Hotel Inglaterra in the background.
Also, in the old town, Parque Centralfeatures a monument to the Cuban national hero – José Martí.
The ever-lively, full-of-old-world-charm Hotel Inglaterra (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below) overlooks the park and is a great place to relax with a Mojito and listen to some live music. If you wish to hire an old-timer taxi to explore Havana, you’ll find the drivers at one end of the park.
Soldiers visiting a statue of José Martí in Parque Central in Havana.
El Capitolio
The domed El Capitolio building in Havana serves as the nation’s capital building.
The El Capitolio is Havana’s most ambitious and grandiose building. Funded by the proceeds of huge sums of money made from sugar exports, the Cuban capitol is similar in design to the Capitol building in Washington, DC – but is actually modelled on the Panthéon in Paris.
El Capitolio, the National Capitol building in Havana.
The building was initiated by Cuba’s US-backed dictator Gerardo Machado in 1926 and took 5000 workers three years, two months and 20 days to construct, at a cost of US$17 million. Formerly the seat of the Cuban Congress, following the revolution, it housed the Cuban Academy of Sciences and the National Library of Science and Technology.
Edificio Bacardi
Edificio Bacardi, the former headquarters of the Bacardi Rum company in Havana.
Panoramic views of the chaotic, crumbling, urban jumble that is Havana old town are available from the rooftop of the Edificio Bacardi, the former Havana headquarters of the Bacardi Rum corporation.
A view of the Havana old town from the rooftop of Edificio Bacardi.
Located on the corner of Calles Monserrate and San Juan de Dios, Edificio Bacardi is an Art Deco landmark, which was completed in 1930.
The Malecón
The sculpture, Primavera, was installed on the Malecón in 2015 as part of the 12th Biennale.
The Malecón is Havana’s 7km-long sea drive which runs along the seashore from Havana harbour into the suburbs. Laid out in the early 1900s as an oceanside boulevard for Havana’s pleasure-seeking middle classes, the Malecón is lined with grand buildings in a mix of architectural styles, many of which have succumbed to the corrosive elements after years of post-revolution neglect.
One of the highlights of the Malecón is the 26-ft high sculpture, Primavera (‘spring’), which was designed by Cuban sculptor Rafael San Juan and celebrates the spirit of Cuban women.
Morro Castle
This lighthouse which stands at the entrance to Havana harbour is part of the Castle Morro complex.
Outside the old town are a couple of imposing coastal fortifications (San Salvador de la Punta Fortress on the city side of the bay and Morro Castle on the opposite shore), which guard the entrance to the all-important harbour.
View of Havana harbour from Morro Castle.
Cristo de La Habana
Overlooking Havana bay, the 20-m high, 350-ton, Cristo de La Habana is carved from Italian Carrara marble.
Located near Morro castle, Cristo de La Habana (The Christ of Havana) is a large sculpture representing Jesus of Nazareth on a hilltop overlooking Havana harbour. The statue is the work of the Cuban sculptor Jilma Madera, who won the commission for it in 1953.
Cienfuegos
A view from Plaza José Martí, the heart of Cienfuegos, with the red dome of the imposing Palacio de Gobierno (home to the Museo Provincial) in the background.
Situated on the Caribbean coast of southern-central Cuba, at the heart of the country’s sugar cane, mango, tobacco and coffee production area, delightful Cienfuegos (English: Hundred fires) was founded by French settlers escaping the revolution in neighbouring Haiti (click to read my Haiti Travel Guide).
The French established themselves as agricultural barons and used their wealth to construct fantastic mansions in the neoclassical style, which today makes Cienfuegos a pleasure to explore.
Plaza José Martí
A proud dog owner relaxing in Plaza José Martí in Cienfuegos.
At the centre of the old town is the attractive, and always-animated, main square – Plaza José Martí. If you’re searching for a Wi-Fi hot-spot in the city, you’ll find it here – just look for the crowd of Cubans on their smartphones.
A classic American car alongside the Arco de Triunfo (Arch of Triumph) at Plaza José Martí in Cienfuegos.
Around the square are a collection of sights worth visiting, including the Museo Provincial, Teatro Terry and the iconic Museo de las Artes Palacio Ferrer which is housed in an impressive neo-classical mansion. Within the plaza, the Arco de Triunfo (Arch of Triumph) and red-roofed rotunda are notable features.
Teatro Terry
The interior of the Teatro Terry in Cienfuegos, which overlooks Plaza José Martí.
Located on the northern side of Plaza José Martí, the Teatro Terry was built between 1887 and 1889 to honour Venezuelan industrialist Tomás Terry. Listed as a national monument, this spectacular 950-seat auditorium is decorated with Italian marble, hand-carved Cuban hardwood floors and Classicist-style ceiling frescoes.
Performances at Teatro Terry are held most evenings with tickets costing a few CUC. The theatre bar occupies a shady courtyard and is a good place to enjoy a Mojito.
Palacio de Ferrer
The neoclassical Palacio Ferrer, with its iconic cupola, overlooks Plaza Jose Marti in downtown Cienfuegos.
On the western side of Plaza José Martí is the iconic, pastel-blue, former Palacio de Ferrer (1918), which was built by the merchant and landowner José Ferrer in the neoclassical style.
Today home to the Museo de las Artes Palacio Ferrer, the standout feature of the Palace is the rooftop cupola, which overlooks the square. At the time of my visit, it was closed for renovations and seemed to have been closed for some time.
A music concert at El Louvre: Studio/ Café in Cienfuegos.
Located next door to Palacio Ferrer is the popular El Louvre: Studio/ Café which hosts occasional concerts.
Museo Provincial
Interior of the Museo Provincial in Cienfuegos.
On the southern side of the square is the rather lacklustre Museo Provincial, which is housed inside the municipal Palacio de Gobierno.
A bride being photographed inside the Museo Provincial in Cienfuegos.
This grand building, which was originally built by the Spanish as a casino, offers an overview of the history of Cienfuegos. Dusty displays include furnishings from 19th-century French-Cuban society. The elaborate interior forms a perfect backdrop for wedding photos and model shoots, which I witnessed during my visit.
Casa del Habano – El Embajador
A great place to gain an appreciation of Cuban rum and cigars is at the wonderful “Casa del Habano El Embajador‘” in Cienfuegos.
While there are plenty of rum and cigar shops in Cuba, one of my favourites is the amazing emporium which is Casa del Habano – El Embajador, which is located downtown at Avenida 54, between Calles 33 and 35.
A view of the most amazing rum and cigar emporium – the “Casa del Habano El Embajador” in downtown Cienfuegos.
Among the haze from puffing cigar aficionados, you’ll also find a large selection of Cuban rum and excellent coffee.
Paseo del Prado
One of many grand, French-built, neoclassical, mansions which line the main street of Cienfuegos – the Paseo del Prado.
South of the centre, the main street, Paseo del Prado, becomes the Malecón, whichcuts alongside the beautiful, sweeping, natural bay.
The Malecón ends at the seaside neighbourhood of Punta Gorda, home to a yacht club, the biggest hotel in town (Hotel Jagua), restaurants, bars and nightclubs.
Palacio de Valle
The exterior of the Moorish-style Palacio de Valle in Cienfuegos.
Had enough of all the Neo-classical architecture in Cienfuegos? How about something Moorish?
One of the highlights of Punta Gorda is the Palacio de Valle. Originally built as a private villa by Italian architect, Alfredo Colli, from 1913 to 1917, the Moorish-style Palacio de Valle resembles an outrageously ornate Moroccan Casbah.
The incredibly opulent interior of the Palacio de Valle in Cienfuegos.
Originally intended to be a casino, the onset of the revolution put an end to those plans, and today the building houses a hotel and restaurant with an excellent rooftop terrace bar.
Trinidad
Colourful houses line the cobbled streets of Trinidad old town.
Located in the province of Sancti Spíritus in the heartland of Cuba, Trinidad (population: 74,000) is a perfectly preserved colonial jewel, which has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1988.
The countryside surrounding Trinidad proved ideal for growing sugarcane and, at its peak in the early 19th century, there were 56 sugar mills in the region, with one of them producing a record cane haul one year that resulted in almost one million kilos of processed white sugar. The fortunes made from the sugar industry were spent building fine mansions, churches and plazas in Trinidad.
The colourful houses of the delightful old town of Trinidad.
The cobbled streets of the old town are full of museums, art galleries, cafes, restaurants and beautiful plazas. This is one place to put way your guidebook, meander, get lost and soak up the ambience.
Souvenir shop in Trinidad.
The town’s centre-piece is the tiny, but beautiful Plaza Mayor, which is surrounded by many fine colonial-era buildings and is dominated by the Iglesia Parroquial de la Santisima Trinidad.
The plaza is essentially an open-air museum of Spanish Colonial architecture, surrounded by a collection of beautiful houses painted in different pastel shades with wrought-iron grilles.
Artwork in Trinidad.
These old mansions today house museums, shops and restaurants. The plaza is also one of the Wi-Fi hotspot’s in Trinidad, with locals thronging to the square to talk to relatives in the US.
In the evening there’s lots of lively entertainment in and around the plaza with musicians, food vendors, performers and a string of bustling cafes and restaurants.
An art studio in Trinidad old town.
The best panoramic views over the old town are from the top of the tower at the Museo de Historia Municipal which is near to Plaza Mayor.
Museo de Historia Municipal in Trinidad old town.
The museum tells the story of the history of Trinidad but its main attraction is its tower, which you can climb (via several flights of rickety wooden stairs) for spectacular views over the old town.
The interior of the Museo de Historia Municipal in Trinidad.
Sancti Spíritus
Parque Serafin Sanchez, the main square of Sancti Spíritus, is lined with beautiful Spanish, colonial-era, buildings.
The captivating city of Sancti Spíritus (population: 134,0000) is the capital of the province of the same name.
The streets of Sancti Spíritus old town are lined with colourful, colonial-era gems.
The historic Puente Yayabo spans the Yayabo river in downtown Sancti Spíritus.
Located on the River Yayabo, the city’s main landmark is the beautiful stone Puente Yayabo which spans the river. Built in 1815 from clay bricks, it forms five arcs, the centre arc being 9 metres tall. The bridge was designed and built for pedestrians and carriages but today is used for vehicular traffic.
Cuba’s oldest church, the 16th century Parroquial Mayor in Sancti Spíritus.
Up the hill from the river is the city’s main site and Cuba’s oldest church – the Parroquial Mayor. This blue-towered church was built in the early 16th-century.
School children in Sancti Spíritus.
The old town is a pleasant place to stroll, with the picturesque main square – Parque Serafin Sanchez – being the perfect place to relax and breath in the history of the city.
Sancti Spíritus Cigar Factory
Workers at a cigar factory in the old town of Sancti Spíritus.
Located in the heart of the old town of Sancti Spíritus is an old cigar factory, which is staff almost exclusively by women, who spend their day toiling away, rolling fine Cuban cigars.
Cigar factory workers in Sancti Spiritus, where most of the workers are female.
While I was not allowed to enter the factory, the factory staff were all very curious and friendly and were happy for me to photograph them through the wired-meshed windows.
A worker in a cigar factory in Sancti Spíritus.
Rolling cigars in the Sancti Spíritus cigar factory.
Ciego De Avila
The sleepy city of Ciego de Avila (population: 136,0000) is the capital of the province of the same name. The city lies on the Carretera Central (central highway) so many people pass through it but few stop, with most visitors to the province heading to the beach resorts on the north coast at Cayo Coco.
The old town contains a nice collection of colonial-style buildings, which are arranged around the central Parque Martí. The park, which has a statue of José Martí at its core, was originally laid-out in 1877 in honour of then king of Spain, Alfonso XII, but was later renamed in honour of the Cuban national hero. The park is a great place to kick-back, watch the world go by and meet the locals.
A short walk from the park is the Museo Provincial Simon Reyes (look for the two white soldiers (statues) standing guard outside), which is a very fine provincial museum. Exhibits cover local history, Afro-Cuban culture and religion.
Camagüey
The blue Santa Cecilia Convention Centre is an architectural gem in Camagüey old town.
The charming city of Camagüey (population: 321,000) is the capital of the province of the same name and the nation’s third largest city. The city was initially founded on the coast as one of the seven original settlements (villas) by the Spanish. They moved the settlement inland to its present location in 1528.
Of all the cities I visited on my meander through Cuba, Camagüey was my favourite. At its heart is a charming old town whose layout is very haphazard and confusing (part of its charm – you’re bound to get lost at some stage).
The maze-like design was a deliberate move which came after Henry Morgan (the famous Pirate) burned the city in the 17th century. Town planners rebuilt the city with a confusing street layout so attackers would find it hard to move around inside the city.
The very blue Santa Cecilia Convention Centre is an architectural standout in the old town as are the numerous plazas.
A barber shop in the old town of Camagüey.
In the heart of the old town is the main plaza – the beautiful Parque Ignacio Agramonte. If you wish to connect to WiFi, you’ll find it here – just look for the hoard of locals.
The old town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 and offers enough attractions to keep you busy for a day or two. Within the old town you’ll find lots of restaurant’s, bar’s, cafe’s, museum’s and art galleries/ studios.
The city claims to be Cuba’s Catholic Soul, and it backs this up with a multitude of churches, which dot the old town. On the main square you’ll find the dominating Iglesia Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria (Our Lady of Candelaria Cathedral) which is a Roman Catholic Cathedral dedicated to the patron saint of the city – the Virgen de la Candelaria.
Playing chess in an old town cafe in Camagüey.
Plaza San Juan de Dios is named after its chief occupant – the church of San Juan de Dios. The neighbourhood around the plaza is very picturesque and it’s here you’ll find lots of artist studios and numerous restaurants, which line and surround the square. It’s most lively in the evenings when the restaurants are full of diners.
Holguín
A bronze, bas-relief mural, titled Origenes, is a highlight of the Parque de las Flores in Holguin.
The bustling city of Holguín (population: 326,0000) is the capital of the province of the same name. At the heart of the city lies the graceful old town, with its square’s, park’s and historic cathedral’s. The city holds enough attractions to keep you busy for a day, with most of the sights within the old town.
A panoramic view of Holguin from the summit of Loma de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross).
The best place to gain an overview of the city (and get your orientation) is from the top of Loma de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross).
Located at the end of Maceo, a 20-minute walk from the centre of town (or a short bicitaxi ride), 465 steps lead to the summit (275 metres), which offers panoramic views of the city and beyond. A great place to get your orientation before plunging into the narrow, busy streets of the old town.
In the centre of the old town is the ‘very white’, twin-domed Catedral de San Isidoro, which was constructed in 1720.
Holguín is known as the ‘City of Parks‘ and one of the nicest is Parque Calixto García, which is located in the heart of the old town. The park was originally laid out in 1719 as the original Plaza de Armas and has served as a meeting point/ marketplace ever since. At the centre of the park is a statute of General Calixto García (his tomb is nearby), around which you’ll find locals relaxing and vendors selling their wares.
Santiago de Cuba
Located in the heart of Santiago de Cuba, the Bacardí Museum and the Palacio Provincial are two Hellenic-style buildings built during Cuba’s 20th-century neoclassical revival.
Located at the far eastern end the island, historic and charming Santiago de Cuba (population: 473,0000) is Cuba’s second largest city and the capital of the province of the same name.
The city was the fifth village founded by the Spanish Conquistador – Diego Velázquez de Cuéllar – in 1515. The settlement was destroyed by fire in 1516, and was immediately rebuilt. It was from here that Hernán Cortés departed on his expedition of the coasts of Mexico in 1518.
Typical street scene in the old town of Santiago de Cuba.
It was also from Santiago de Cuba that Hernando de Soto departed on his expedition to Florida in 1538. It was the first European expedition which travelled deep into the territory of the modern-day United States, travelling overland through Florida, Georgia, Mississippi, Alabama and Arkansas. He is the first European documented as having crossed the Mississippi River.
During my visit to Santiago de Cuba, hand sanitising stations were helping prevent the spread of a nasty virus.
The streets of the old town are lined with examples of fine colonial architecture some of which have been converted into museums. It’s here you’ll find the Museo Municipal Emilio Bacardí Moreau, which was founded in 1899 by the rum-magnate and city mayor, Emilio Bacardí y Moreau. The museum is one of the oldest in the country and features an eclectic collection of exhibits amassed from Bacardí’s travels.
A view of Parque Cespedes, with the Hotel Casa Granda (white building) and the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción
The heart of Santiago de Cuba is Parque Céspedes, which is more formerly known as Plaza Carlos Manuel de Céspedes. At the centre of the square is the bronze bust of Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, a key proponent of Cuban independence.
Casa de Diego Velázquez
Located in the heart of Santiago de Cuba, Cuba’s oldest house, the Casa de Diego Velázquez is today a museum.
The square is surrounded by the most historic buildings in the city, including the oldest house in Cuba, the Casa de Diego Velázquez, which has now been converted into the Museo de Ambiente Histórico Cubano.
Interior of the Museo de Ambiente Histórico Cubano in Santiago de Cuba.
Built in 1515 for Cuba’s first governor, Diego Velázquez, this is the oldest house still standing in Cuba and arguably the oldest in Latin America.
The wooden screens of the Casa de Diego Velázquez were designed so the occupants could look out but outsiders couldn’t look in.
The Casa de Diego Velázquez features an Andalusian-style façade with fine, wooden lattice windows on the second floor overlooking a central courtyard, which is refreshingly cool on a hot day.
Municipal Culture House
The Interior of the Municipal Culture House in Santiago de Cuba.
Located on the eastern side of Parque Cespedes, next door to the Hotel Casa Granda, the Municipal Culture House is considered the most important exponent of eclectic architecture in Santiago.
The ornate Esteban Salas Concert Hall at the Municipal Culture House in Santiago de Cuba.
Built from 1908-1912 as the San Carlos Club, this landmark building has been home to several institutions, becoming the Municipal Culture House and the Esteban Salas Concert Hall in the 1980s.Bacardí Rum Factory
Displays at the Bacardí Rum Factory in Santiago de Cuba.
Also, in the old town of Santiago de Cuba is the original Bacardí Rum Factory. It was here that the Spanish-born founder Don Facundo dreamed up the world-famous Bacardí bat symbol after discovering a bat colony in the factory’s rafters.
Memorabilia at the Bacardí Rum Factory in Santiago de Cuba.
Although the Bacardí family relocated the business to Puerto Rico at the time of the revolution, the Cuban government continues to make traditional rum here – including Ron Santiago.
Moncada Barracks
The birthplace of the Cuban revolution, Moncada Barracks in Santiago de Cuba which are still riddled with the bullet holes from Fidel Castro’s raid.
Santiago was the birthplace of the Cuban revolution, when Fidel Castro led a small contingent of rebels on an ill-prepared armed attack on the Cuartel Moncada (Moncada Barracks), which is today a museum. Housed inside the Moncada Barracks, the exhibits provide details (sometimes gory in detail) of the failed 1953 attack by Fidel Castro and his band of rebels.
Accommodation
Introduction
In the early years of the 20th century, Cuba was a favoured playground for American tourists, then Fidel Castro appeared on the scene and ended the party.
Following the revolution in 1959, and for most of the later part of the 20th century, Cuba was closed to tourism – hidden away behind the Coconut curtain.
It was only in the 1990’s when the Soviet Union (Cuba’s main trade partner) collapsed – withdrawing its support from its former ally – did Cuba (out of economic necessity) start to open itself to tourism.
Room Shortage
For most of the 21st century tourists to Cuba have come from Canada and Europe but with the thawing of relations with the United States, American tourists are now flooding into Cuba.
Unfortunately, with just 60,000 hotel rooms in the country (many in dilapidated state-run hovels), the country is suffering from a severe shortage of accommodation.
In some cities (e.g. Holguín – population 300,000) there are just two hotels located on the outskirts of the city – and these are permanently block-booked by European tour groups.
It’s the same story in Santiago de Cuba and many other cities. If you arrive in a city without a hotel reservation you should not expect to find a room (at least in a hotel) – you will need to find a room in a Casa particular.
Casa Particular
The saving grace for many visitors to Cuba is theCasa particular. Like B&B’s in other parts of the world, rooms in private family homes are made available for payment.
I stayed in a number of Casa’s during my time in Cuba with my favourite being the immaculately clean Casa Guevara Alba B&B in Havana (refer to the “Accommodation – Havana” section below).
Most Casa’s charged 25 CUC per night and often offered breakfast for an additional charge. The best websites for finding Casa’s are trivago.com, Airbnb.com and BedyCasa.com
Havana
My comfortable room at Casa Guevara Alba B&B in Havana.
Not surprisingly, Cuba’s capital and most populous city offers more hotel options than anywhere else in the country. Hotels range from charming colonial establishments, which line the cobbled streets of Old Havana to modern, towering hotels located in the newer districts of the city.
Throughout the city there’s a good selection of Casa particulars which can be booked from websites such as trivago.com, Airbnb.com and BedyCasa.com.
While in Havana I stayed in two very different Casa particulars – the charming, spotlessly clean, friendly, family-run Casa Guevara Alba which is located in the suburbs and a rustic, old Casa which was conveniently located in the heart of the old town.
I also managed to secure a room at the legendary Hotel Inglaterra. Founded in 1875, the Inglaterra is Cuba’s oldest hotel and has been declared a National Monument. Overlooking Central Park and adjacent to the Capitol building, the hotel is the most convenient address in the city, being a short stroll from most sights in Old Havana. The street-side covered café is always buzzing with activity, a place where tourists and locals can relax at tables individually decorated by Cuban artists, listen to live bands, enjoy a meal, coffee or Mojito and watch the world go by.
Cienfuegos
The charming 4-star La Union Hotel is located in the heart of Cienfuegos and almost always fully booked.
Cienfuegos is another city where the rooms in established hotels (including the charming La Union Hotel – pictured above) are normally block-booked by tour groups.
Located on the coast, a short taxi ride south of the city centre is the enclave of Punta Gorda, which is home to several hotels, including the Hotel Jagua – the biggest hotel in town.
While in town, I stayed with a young, entrepreneurial family in a beautiful, modern, contemporary-designed house which I found on BedyCasa.com.
Trinidad
The charming old town of Trinidad is a tourist hotspot and home to many Casas particulares.
Beautiful Trinidad has a population of 73,000 but walking around the busy cobbled streets of the old town, it’s easy to imagine there are even more tourists than locals in town at any one time. Like elsewhere in Cuba, Casa particularssave the day here.
I stayed in theHotel Las Cuevas which is built on a natural veranda above the city, offering panoramic views of the Caribbean Sea and the old town below.
Sancti Spíritus
Exterior of the charming Hotel del Rijo in downtown Sancti Spiritus.
My favourite hotel in Sancti Spiritus is the beautifully restored, colonial-era Hotel del Rijo. The added bonus here is that you can actually book a room, with tour groups clearly staying elsewhere!
Overlooking Park Honorato, this impressive mansion was built between 1818 and 1827 for a wealthy, local family. It was renovated in 2001 and later converted into a hotel.
With décor that looks like Hemingway might have stayed here just yesterday, the tastefully decorated rooms are spacious and comfortable and include black & white photos of the old town.
Feeling like Hemmingway in my room at the wonderful Hotel del Rijo in Sancti Spiritus.
The hotel occupies prime downtown real estate and (in my opinion) is the only place to stay while in town. It’s location opposite the main Parochial Church, close to the main shopping street and nearby the Yayabo river make this the perfect base for exploring the city.
The front-side alfresco restaurant, which overlooks the peaceful Parque Honorato, offers wonderful Cuban cuisine.
Ciego de Ávila
Most tourists visiting Ciego de Ávila province stay on the north coast at Cayo Coco, which is a good thing since most hotels in the capital (same name as the province) are old, dilapidated, state-run dives. The best of a bad bunch is the colonial-style Hotel Sevilla.
While in Ciego de Ávila city, I stayed in an unremarkable Casa particular in the heart of the downtown area.
Camagüey
The charming, historic city of Camagüey is a popular stop for tour groups and, unlike other Cuban cities, offers a reasonable selection of hotels, some of which are beautifully refined colonial-era establishments.
I stayed in one such place – the centrally locatedGran Hotel– which once accommodated Hemingway and offers comfortable rooms for €65 per night. The hotel is located in the heart of the business district and is a short walk from most sights.
Despite having a population of 300,000 people, there is a dearth of hotels in Holguín. The city boasts just two – the IslazulPernik and the Islazul El Bosque (both of which are part of the state owned Isalzul group and are old and faded affairs).
The hotels are located next to each other on the outskirts of the city and are both permanently block-booked by tour groups.
A view of Holguin from Loma de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross).
When I arrived at El Bosque, the hotel had no vacancies but the helpful reception staff directed me to a family-owned Casa Particular a short walk away, which was very comfortable.
With a population of 430,000 – Santiago de Cuba is Cuba’s second largest city and, like most other cities, it offers very few hotel rooms.
One of the few hotels in town is the delightfully eclectic Hotel Casa Granda. Built in 1914, the hotel overlooks Parque Cespedes (the main square) and is a short walk from all attractions. Unfortunately, like so many other hotels in Cuba, the rooms are normally block-booked by tour groups.
Even if you’re not a guest at the Casa Granda, you’ll probably find yourself spending time at the lively terrace café/ bar. With views over the main square, live music and delicious Mojito’s, it’s the best place in town to unwind after a hard day of sightseeing.
The swimming pool at the Meliá Santiago de Cuba.
Located 2.5 kilometres from Parque Cespedes is the modern, 5-star Meliá Santiago de Cuba, which has the best pool in town (open to non-guests for a fee).
I stayed in a family-run Casa which I was directed to by a helpful local. There are plenty of Casa Particular’s in the city, which you can reserve through trivago.com, Airbnb.com or BedyCasa.com
Eating Out
A typical bar in Havana old town.
Cuban cuisine is a blend of Native American Taino food, Spanish, African and Caribbean cuisines. A typical meal consists of rice and beans, which – when cooked together – is called “congri” or “Moros”.
The good news for diners is that under Raul Castro’s economic reform programme (since 2010) there has been a wave of new private restaurants (paladares) open around the country, especially in Havana. Dining in Cuba has gone from once being a chore to now being a pleasure, with a wealth of options serving decent food with lots of ambience and good service.
Cuban Sandwich
The ubiquitous and popular Cuban sandwich, served in a cafe in Havana old town.
A popular snack is the Cuban sandwich which is also referred to as a mixto.
The sandwich is a popular lunch item which was first created as a snack for cigar workers who travelled between Cuba and Florida in the 1800’s.
Typically, the sandwich is built on a base of lightly buttered Cuban bread and contains sliced roast pork, thinly sliced Serrano ham, Swiss cheese, dill pickles, and yellow mustard.
Ropa Vieja
Ropa Vieja (old clothes) is a popular dish in Cuba.
One of my favourite Cuban dishes is Ropa Vieja (translates as ‘old clothes’), which is slow-cooked shredded beef (or lamb) served in a tomato sauce with different vegetables. It’s a very tasty stew!
The name comes from the fact that the dish can look like a pile of shredded old clothes. Old clothes or not – it’s delicious and so popular it’s been designated a national dish.
Havana
The ornate dining room at the Hotel Inglaterra, a landmark hotel in Havana old town.
One thing you can be sure of in a great, cosmopolitan city such as Havana is that you are never far from your next dining option. La Habana Vieja (the old town) is the epi-centre of the Cuban culinary world with restaurants, bars and cafes around every corner.
A typical bar in Havana old town.
With more (private) establishments opening constantly, the dining scene in Havana is forever changing. And when not eating you can relax in one of the many bars, listen to live music (which can be heard day and night), sip a Mojito, watch some salsa dancing and soak up the atmosphere of this wonderful Caribbean metropolis.
“My mojito in La Bodeguita, my daiquiri in El Floridita.” – Ernest Hemingway
Due to the high number of tourists in the city, any restaurant in the old town is invariably a tourist trap.
Of all the establishments, the two favourite watering holes of Ernest Hemmingway – La Bodeguita del Medioand El Floridita attract most of the attention, with hordes of tourists lining up to get a seat at the bar.
Hemmingwaycertainly enjoyed his rum cocktails and was said to favour the Mojito at La Bodeguita and the Daiquiri at El Floridita.
Fresh Lime Juice
A divine fresh lime juice at the Museo de la Revolucion in Havana.
Despite Cuba being the land of amazing rum cocktails, one of my favourite daytime drinks were the amazing fresh lime juices which are served at restaurants and cafes throughout the island. Always sweetened with simple syrup, there’s nothing more refreshing in the tropical heat!
A good lunchtime option (and definitely a tourist trap), which offers panoramic views over the centre of the old town, is the rooftop restaurant at the Hotel Ambos Mundos.
The hotel was built in the 1920’s and was frequented by Ernest Hemingway (you can visit his former room – # 511 – which has been converted into a museum). The food and service are reasonable but it’s the views that make a visit worthwhile.
The street-side Gran Café el Louvre at the beautiful Hotel Inglaterra is worth mentioning for its carnival-like atmosphere.
Located opposite Parque Central, and offering live music (day and night), Mojito’s, snack’s and good coffee, the Louvre is a great place to relax and watch the world go by. If the circus atmosphere becomes too much you can retire inside to the quiet, ornate, air-conditioned restaurant, which is full of old-world charm. For something really special you should venture to the rooftop terrace where you’ll find a quieter bar.
Cienfuegos
The neoclassical mansions which line Paseo del Prado in Cienfuegos are home to some fine dining options, including the wonderful Restaurante Doña Nora.
There’s no shortage of good restaurants in Cienfuegos, many of which can be found along the main Paseo El Prado – which runs for many kilometres from downtown to the coast at Punta Gorda.
Located downtown on the corner of Paseo El Prado and Calle Arguelles is Restaurante Doña Nora, one of my favourite restaurants in Cienfuegos.
This establishment was one of the first private restaurants to open in the city and was recommended to me by my Casa particular host. Although not as cheap, as a government-run establishment, the food, service and ambience are worth the extra cost.
Built on two floors, there’s an upstairs balcony which overlooks the main street and is used as the waiting area while you (inevitably) wait for a free table, which is no problem since you can sip one of their amazing Mojito’s while appreciating the views.
The ornate, Moorish-style interior of the Palacio de Valle in Cienfuegos.
Located next to the Caribbean Sea in the Punta Gorda enclave is the opulent and ornate Palacio de Valle.
Once the home of a wealthy merchant and built in a Moorish style, the palace is worth visiting – even if just to photograph. Meals here are good (but not spectacular) and there’s a rooftop bar which offers panoramic views of the Caribbean.
Trinidad
Lunch at Restaurante Guitarra Mia (My Guitar) in Trinidad old town.
Despite its small population (78,000), Trinidad punches well above its weight when it comes to culinary offerings. Within the picturesque old town, the cobbled streets and tranquil squares are lined with restaurant’s, bar’s and cafe’s, all catering to the ever-present tourist hoards.
Located a short walk from the main Plaza Mayor (at # 19 Jesus Menendez Alameda) is the quaint and cosy Restaurante Guitarra Mia (My guitar). The beautifully presented, tasty food, service, ambience and live music ensure a memorable dining experience.
In the evening the cobbled streets around the Plaza Mayor come alive with the bustle of tourists and locals, with many restaurants, bars and cafes offering Cuban and International cuisine and lots of quaffable rum cocktails. Located on the square, the excellent Sol Ananda is a cross between a museum (it’s packed with antiques) and a restaurant. The speciality here is the amazing lamb Ropa Vieja.
Sancti Spíritus
A fresh lime juice at Restaurante Quinta Santa Elena – a great refresher while exploring Sancti Spiritus.
The best meal I had in Sancti Spiritus was at the Taberna Yayabo which overlooks the Yayabo river (next to the old stone bridge). As you enter, it’s hard to miss the row of Serrano hams hanging from the bar. The Taberna offers Cuban cuisine and tapas (focused on ham and cheese) with a good selection of wines. The best seats in the house are outside on the balcony which overlooks the river.
Located on the banks of the Yayabo river (across the road from the Taberna) is the historic (and iconic) Restaurante Quinta Santa Elenawhich offers Cuban cuisine, great cocktails and fresh lime juice – all served in their shady riverside garden.
A bakery in Sancti Spíritus old town.
Thecharming Restaurant Hotel Del Rijo is located on the cool, breezy, covered ground-floor of the majestic Hotel Del Rijo (see “Accommodation – Sancti Spiritus“). Overlooking the peaceful Parque Honorato, the restaurant offers Cuban cuisine at reasonable prices.
Ciego De Avila
In terms of cuisine, there’s nowhere in Ciego de Avila city that’s setting the world on fire. Located on Marcial Gómez (adjacent to the main square), the restaurant Don Avila has the best bar in town, a cigar outlet and reasonable Cuban and Creole food. The restaurant is busiest during lunch and has a nice alfresco dining area.
A short walk from Don Avila – at Independencia 388 – is Restaurante Blanco Y Negro, which serves good international & Cuban cuisine.
Camagüey
One of many cafes to be found in the charming old town of Camagüey.
Located in the old town,the serene Plaza San Juan de Dios is lined with cafe’s and restaurant’s and is a wonderful place to spend a relaxing evening enjoying cocktails, fine food and live music. The square is surrounded by artist studio’s, which line the quiet cobbled streets. The whole neighbourhood has a great vibe and ambience.
The main restaurant on the square is the impressive Restaurant 1800 which offers a good selection of Cuban and international cuisine.
Holguín
A standout restaurant in Holguín is the 1910 Restaurante & Bar (address: 143 Mártires). Located in the heart of the old town, 1910 offers very tasty Cuban and Spanish cuisine.
Santiago de Cuba
Live music at Casa de la Trova in Santiago de Cuba.
Being the birthplace of Bacardi (since relocated offshore), Santiago de Cuba is still a major rum producer and a great place to party. Live music can be heard day and night in the bars around the old town with a popular place being Casa de la Trova (located near the Hotel Casa Granda on Bartolomé Masó street).
The best place in town to relax with a rum-based cocktail (made from local rum of course!) is the terrace restaurant/ bar at the Hotel Casa Granda.Overlooking the (always busy and entertaining) main square – Parque Céspedes – the terrace is a popular meeting place for tourists, touts and locals. While the cocktails demand respect, the food offerings are less than inspiring with burgers, hot dogs and sandwiches available.
Opposite the Hotel Casa Granda, (overlooking the cathedral) is the best seafood restaurant in town – Thoms Yadira Restaurant. I highly recommend their seafood Brocheta’s.
Located at the end of a corridor (enter from Calle Saco), near to Parque Plaza de Marte, is Santiago’s #1 restaurant – a true hidden gem – St. Pauli. Although hidden, the restaurant is no secret and is a favourite lunch stop for tour groups during their city tour’s. The menu is wonderfully varied and the food (Cuban/ Caribbean) is delicious.
Chocolate selection at Chocolateria Fraternidad in Santiago de Cuba.
Adjacent to Parque Plaza de Marte (on the southeast corner) isChocolateria Fraternidad, whichis famous for its ice-cream, hand-made chocolates and hot chocolate drinks. Although their chocolates come in a variety of different shapes, there’s no variety in their flavour or fillings with all their offerings simply being chunks of either solid milk, white or dark chocolate – wonderfully symbolic of Cuba – where ‘variety’ is rarely on offer.
Visa Requirements
The visa policy of Cuba is surprisingly simple. Prior to arrival, most nationalities are required to purchase a green ‘Tourist Card‘ (Tarjeta del Turista) which costs US$25. A tourist card grants a maximum stay of 30 days (90 days for Canadians) and can be obtained from Cuban missions, travel agencies or the airline (the one which will fly you into Cuba).
The easiest way to obtain the card is to purchase it directly from the airline at the airport. I flew from Santo Domingo (Dominican Republic) to Havana with Cubana and was able to easily purchase the card prior to check-in for US$25 cash. If your flight is originating from the United States, a pink Tourist Card will be issued at a cost of US$50.
Getting There
Air
Cuba boasts 11 International airports, located in different cities and resort areas, providing travellers with increased flexibility when planning arrival and departure points from this long island. International airports are located in the following cities:
Camaguey (code: CMW)
Cayo Coco (code: CCC)
Cayo Largo (code: CYO)
Cienfuegos (code: CFG)
Havana (code: HAV)
Holguin (code: HOG)
Manzanillo de Cuba (code: MZO)
Santa Clara (code: SNU)
Santiago de Cuba (code: SCU)
Varadero (code: VRA)
The main gateway to Cuba is José Martí International Airport,which is located 15 kilometres (9 miles) southwest of Havana. The airport serves as the base for the national carrier, Cubanawho operate International and domestic flights from the airport.
The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from José Martí International Airport:
Aeroflot – flies to/ from Moscow–Sheremetyevo
Aeroméxico – flies to/ from Cancún, Mexico City
Air Canada Rouge – flies to/ from Toronto–Pearson
Air Caraïbes – flies to/ from Paris–Orly
Air China – flies to/ from Beijing–Capital, Montréal–Trudeau
Air Europa – flies to/ from Madrid
Air France – flies to/ from Paris–Charles de Gaulle
Alitalia – flies to/ from Rome-Fiumicino
American Airlines – flies to/ from Charlotte, Miami
Aruba Airlines – flies to/ from Aruba
Avianca – flies to/ from Bogotá
Avianca El Salvador – flies to/ from San Salvador
Avianca Peru – flies to/ from Lima
Bahamasair – flies to/ from Nassau
Blue Panorama Airlines – flies to/ from Milan–Malpensa, Rome–Fiumicino
Cayman Airways – flies to/ from Cayman Brac, Grand Cayman
Condor – flies to/ from Frankfurt, Munich
Conviasa – flies to/ from Caracas
Copa Airlines – flies to/ from Panama City
Corsair International – flies to/ from Paris–Orly
Cubana – flies to/ from Baracoa, Bayamo, Bogotá, Buenos Aires–Ezeiza, Camagüey, Cancún, Caracas, Cayo Coco, Fort-de-France, Guantánamo, Holguín, Las Tunas, Madrid, Managua, Manzanillo (Cuba), Mexico City, Moa, Montréal–Trudeau, Nassau, Nueva Gerona, Paris–Orly, Pointe-à-Pitre, Port-au-Prince, San José, Santiago de Cuba, Santo Domingo–Las Américas, Toronto–Pearson
Delta Air Lines – flies to/ from Atlanta, Miami, New York–JFK
EasySky – flies to/ from Tegucigalpa
Edelweiss – flies to/ from Air Zürich
Evelop – flies to/ from Airlines Madrid
Fly All Ways – flies to/ from Paramaribo
Iberia – flies to/ from Madrid
InterCaribbean Airways – flies to/ from Providenciales
Interjet – flies to/ from Cancún, Mérida, Mexico City, Monterrey
JetBlue Airways – flies to/ from Fort Lauderdale, New York–JFK, Orlando
KLM – flies to/ from Amsterdam
LATAM Perú – flies to/ from Lima
Meridiana – flies to/ from Milan–Malpensa
PAWA Dominicana – flies to/ from Santo Domingo-Las Americas
Plus Ultra Líneas Aéreas – flies to/ from Barcelona
Southwest Airlines – flies to/ from Fort Lauderdale, Tampa
Sunrise Airways – flies to/ from Port-au-Prince
TAAGAngola Airlines – flies to/ from Luanda
TAME – flies to/ from Quito
Turkish Airlines – flies to/ from Istanbul-Atatürk
United Airlines – flies to/ from Houston–Intercontinental, Newark
Virgin Atlantic – flies to/ from London–Gatwick
Wingo – flies to/ from Bogotá
Cruise Ship
A variety of Cruise Ship companies offer cruises to Cuba. For the latest schedules and prices, you should check the following websites:
Most domestic air services are offered byCubana who operate a fleet of 16 planes. Apart from two ATR 72 (French) aircraft, Cubana’s fleet consists entirely of soviet-era metal, namely Antonov (Ukrainian), Ilyushin(Russian) and Tupolev (Russian).
Ticket prices are very reasonable (US$130 one way from Havana to Santiago de Cuba) which means flights are very popular and often sold-out well in advance. Flights can be booked online a variety of OTA’s including Skyscanner.
Intercity Bus
There are two national bus companies in Cuba with Viazul being the company used by tourists. This state-owned (of course!) company operates a fleet of modern and comfortable coaches which provide regular connections to most Cuban cities with journey’s typically costing around 3 CUC per hour.
Schedules and prices are available on their website where you can also book tickets. Alternatively, you can purchase tickets at any bus terminal. Some routes (e.g., Havana – Trinidad, Havana – Santiago de Cuba) are very popular so it’s recommended to book in advance.
AstroBus is a bus service which is available only to Cuban Residents who must produce their ID card when purchasing a ticket, which are payable in CUP. The fleet is comprised of modern Chinese YUTONG buses,
Colectivo
Riding in a Colectivo is a quintessential Cuban travel experience.
Colectivo’s, also known as Almendrone’s, are taxis running on fixed, long-distance routes. They are generally old (pre-revolution) American clunkers with room for two passengers up front and four in the back.
The driver of this Colectivo in Holguín told me his car was built in the United States in 1948.
In other countries these cars would be displayed in a car museum, but in Cuba they are an integral part of the public transportation system, operating like buses, dropping off and picking up on demand.
Journey’s typically cost 50 cents CUC per person.
Taxi
Riding in a taxi in Cienfuegos.
Taxi companies in Cuba are government owned and charge reasonably priced fares (compared to major cities around the world) with a typical tariff of 50 cents (CUC) per kilometre.
Taxi drivers will often offer tourists a flat, off-meter rate that usually works out very close to what you’ll pay with the meter. The difference is that with the meter, the money goes to the state to be divided up; without the meter it goes into the driver’s pocket.
Coco Taxis
An old baseball bat is all that’s needed to jack up a Coco Taxi.
A section on getting around Cuba wouldn’t be complete without mention of the iconic, yellow Coco Taxi, an auto rickshaw found only on the streets of Havana.
The Coco carries 2-3 passengers, runs on a two-stroke motor and is made of lightweight fibre-glass which makes raising the body for repairs a breeze. The Coco gets its name from its rounded body which resembles a half-coconut. These noisy, smog belching rickshaws costs less than a regular taxi.
Bicitaxi’s
Two young girls in Cienfuegos enjoying an outing in a Bicitaxi.
Bicitaxi’s are one of the best and cheapest forms of transportation in Cuba and are a great way to explore a city, with a one-hour sightseeing tour costing 5 CUC.
A family in Cienfuegos shopping from the comfort of a Bicitaxi.
Bici’s are pedal-powered tricycles (the Cuban Rickshaw) with a double seat behind the driver. They are commonly found in Havana and most large cities and are cheaper than taxis, but fares need to be negotiated in advance.
While locals pay 10 to 20 pesos (CUP) for a short journey, drivers will charge tourists 1-2 CUC.
Horse Carts
A Coches de caballo is the best way to explore Cienfuegos and other Cuban cities.
The most relaxed form of transport in Cuba, Coches de caballo(horse carriages) provide a pleasurable way to explore cities such as Cienfuegos or Camagüey.
Touring Cienfuegos in my horse carriage.
While carriages normally trot along fixed routes, they can be hired for sightseeing trips or direct point-to-point journeys with a short trip costing 1 CUC.
Train
A map of the Cuban rail network. Source: Wikipedia
The first railway in Latin America was inaugurated in Cuba in 1837, with a 27.5 km line running between Havana & Bejucal. Built by the Spanish to transport sugar, it was constructed at a time when no railways existed in Spain.
Known for its slow, unreliable service and poorly maintained carriages, improvements are slowly happening with the government making investments in recent years in new rolling stock, with new locomotives ordered from China and new carriages from Iran. Tickets (payable in CUC) should be purchased in advance from stations.
A good source of information for everything related to Cuban train travel is ‘The man in seat 61‘.
Car Rental
Old Cuban License plates make for popular souvenirs.
Car Rental is possible in Cuba with a compact car (all manuals) costing about US$75 per day. It’s best to pre-book in advance, which you can do on several websites including TripCuba.
That’s the end of my Cuba Travel Guide.
Safe Travels to Cuba!
Darren
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Further Reading
Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:
