Author - Darren McLean

Bermuda Travel Guide

Bermuda Travel Guide: A White-tailed Tropicbird or Longtail, landing at it nest.

Bermuda Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Bermuda Travel Guide!

Date Visited: July 2017

Introduction

Exploring Bermuda has been on my bucket list for some time, so when I found a cheap flight from New York City I snapped it up. I then turned to booking.com to book my accommodation and saw the few hotels on the island were charging upwards of $600 per night. Ouch! Where were the cheap guest houses and hostels? I turned to Airbnb.com and found a wonderful, comfortable room in a family home for less than $100 per night – a real bargain for this island.

Warwick beach on the south coast.

Warwick beach on the south coast.

Bermuda is one very expensive travel destination – a real challenge for those travelling on a budget. This British Overseas Territory doesn’t market itself as a budget-friendly destination, the island is all about 5-star resorts, fine dining restaurants and expensive boutique shopping – a destination for the well-heeled.

Today a UNESCO world Heritage site, St. Georges served as the capital of Bermuda for the first 200 years.

Today a UNESCO world Heritage site, St. Georges served as the capital of Bermuda for the first 200 years.

I originally planned to visit during June of 2017 but the already high prices were in the stratosphere thanks to Bermuda being the venue for the Americas Cup. I arrived two weeks after the cup and found retailers in town were still selling surplus clothing (from the cup) at full retail prices – there are never any bargains on this island.

South Coast beach.

South Coast beach.

Despite the scary prices, there are ways to keep costs down – such as eating in local cafes (where you can get a meal for around $12), or by shopping in supermarkets and self-catering.

If you choose to eat in tourist/ ex-pat restaurants, you should always be prepared for ‘sticker shock‘ when you receive the bill. In one cafe I paid $20 for a sandwich, which then came close to $30 once the gratuity and my drink was added.


Stormy Skies Over St. Georges


 

At the North Rock Brewing company, a small glass of one of their fine craft beers cost me $13.80 – that left a nasty aftertaste! I met a vacationing American family who had dinner one evening in a hotel restaurant. During their dinner the servers kept pouring water, which the family thought was house water. In the end they had a charge on their bill of $130 for water. You can read more about the high cost of living here.

South Coast beach

Typical South Coast beach

If you can live with the high costs then Bermuda is a beautiful, engaging and rewarding destination and one not to be missed. On this well-ordered island, there is something for everyone – from a pristine environment, lots of history, a rich culture and so much more.

Then there are the wonderful Bermudans – friendly, welcoming and always hospitable. Despite the budget-busting costs, Bermuda is a veritable paradise, one which I enjoyed and hope to return to again one day.

Bermuda Shorts

“The short-pant is a terrible fashion choice, unless it is from Bermuda.”

So said Winston Churchill after a visit to Bermuda in the 1940’s.

Bermuda shorts in every colour of the rainbow at 'Tabs' in Hamilton.

Bermuda shorts in every colour of the rainbow at ‘Tabs’ in Hamilton.

Bermuda shorts were originally designed by the British Army for wear in tropical and desert climates. During WWII, there was a shortage of clothing in Bermuda. At the time, the General Managers of two local banks (who were concerned that their male employees would not have suitable clothing to wear) arranged for a local tailor to make two pairs of formal shorts (modelled on the shorts of the British military), for each of their male employees.

This was the beginning of Bermuda shorts as acceptable business attire in Bermuda. Since their inception, local designers have improved the design of the shorts, using better materials and brighter colours.

Bermuda shorts on sale at Tabs in Hamilton.

Bermuda shorts on sale at Tabs in Hamilton.

One thing I noticed while on the island is how popular the shorts are with local businessmen and government employees. Bermudans wear their shorts for all occasions – including weddings.

"How to wear your Bermuda Shorts"

“How to wear your Bermuda Shorts” by Tabs of Hamilton
Source: “Tabs” – Authentic Bermuda Shorts

Men on Bermuda wear their Bermuda shorts in a variety of bright colours, always with long (knee-length) woollen socks – often in the same colour as their shorts. The look is completed with formal (black/ brown) shoes, a freshly ironed dress shirt with tie and a navy blue jacket.

Bermuda shorts come in a variety of colours, with 'Bermuda red' (same colour as the flag) being especially popular.

Bermuda shorts come in a variety of colours, with ‘Bermuda red’ (same colour as the flag) being especially popular.

Bermuda Triangle

Boundaries of the fictitious Bermuda Triangle. Source: Wikipedia

Boundaries of the fictitious Bermuda Triangle.
Source: Wikipedia

A travel guide about Bermuda wouldn’t be complete without mention of the Bermuda Triangle. Since the 1950’s, writers have written fictional stories about ships and aircraft mysteriously disappearing in the vicinity of the triangle. The boundaries of the triangle were defined in a pulp fiction publication – Argosy  – in 1964.

The area defined by the triangle is one of the busiest shipping lanes on the planet and while ships have become wrecked/ disappeared, there is no evidence to suggest that paranormal activity was responsible for any of these misfortunes. Either way, the story of the triangle has sold lots of books over the decades and (today) lots of tacky ‘I went to Bermuda and survived the Bermuda Triangle..’ souvenirs.

Heather Nova

Heather Nova in concert.

Heather Nova in concert.

It would be amiss of me not to make mention of one of my favourite musicians, who happens to be a native of Bermuda – Heather Nova. I first saw Heather in concert in Zurich, Switzerland in 2009.

The concert was a magical experience – from her enchanting, mystical voice, to the meaningful lyrics of each of her carefully composed songs.

Heather was touring Europe while I was visiting Bermuda so no chance of seeing her perform at home. If you ever have the chance to attend one of her concerts (she is often touring Europe) I would recommend you do so, but be warned, there is a magical quality about her music and she will put you under her spell.

Location

Hamilton, Bermuda

Bermuda is an extinct, isolated volcano, located atop a seamount, far from anywhere, in the middle of the North Atlantic ocean. The closest landmass is Cape Hatteras (North Carolina), on the east coast of the United States – approximately 1,070 km (665 mi) to the north-east.

"Bermuda Blues".

“Bermuda Blues”.

At different periods in history, the seamount has been completely submerged which has allowed marine organisms to form a limestone cap which covers the entire island and provides the white/ pink powdery sand beaches and turquoise water for which Bermuda is famous.

History

The Bermudan flag flying alongside the Union Jack.

The Bermudan flag flying alongside the Union Jack.

Unlike its Caribbean neighbours to the south, remote and isolated Bermuda was never settled by indigenous Indians from the Americas. The island remained undiscovered until 1505 when Spanish navigator Juan de Bermudez passed by, while sailing back to Spain from a provisioning voyage to Hispaniola (present day Dominican Republic/ Haiti).

The island was named after Bermudez who returned again in 1515 dropping off some pigs who could be used as food by anyone unlucky enough to be wrecked on the isolated outpost.

Martello Tower in St. Georges parish, part of line of defensive forts built by the British.

Martello Tower in St. Georges parish, part of line of defensive forts built by the British.

Bermuda continued to remain off the radar until 1609, when an English provisioning ship – the Sea Venture (captained by Sir George Somers) – would be deliberately ship wrecked on its reef.

The ship was en-route to the new English colony of Jamestown, Virginia when it became caught in a fierce storm and was blown off course. When the reefs of Bermuda were spotted days later, the ship was deliberately run aground in order to save all survivors and allow them to salvage parts from the ship.

The survivors spent ten months on Bermuda, where they found plenty of food – including a thriving pig population. During this time, they were able to use tools and parts from the Sea Venture to build two new ships – Perseverance and Deliverance – one of which they filled with food stores sourced from the island.

When the two new vessels were complete, most of the survivors set sail, completing their journey to Jamestown. Upon arrival they found a starving colony, which they were able to save using the supplies from Bermuda. Had this not happened, England’s new colony of ‘America’ would most likely have failed.

A tunnel underneath Fort St. Catherine, which is located in the parish of St. Georges.

A tunnel underneath Fort St. Catherine, which is located in the parish of St. Georges.

When Somers departed Bermuda for Virginia, he left two volunteers on the Island to maintain Britain’s territorial claim. As a result, Bermuda has been continuously inhabited as a British territory since the wrecking of the Sea Venture in 1609, and claims its origin from that date, and not the official settlement of 1612.

Initially the island was run as a company, with land divided up between shareholders. Tobacco was the only agricultural crop grown but wasn’t profitable due to the small size of landholdings. Due to the lack of agriculture, slavery was not as important to Bermuda as it was on the ‘plantation’ islands in the Caribbean.

The streets of historic St. Georges are lined with beautifully renovated stone buildings all of which are topped with white limestone-slab roofs.

The streets of historic St. Georges are lined with beautifully renovated stone buildings all of which are topped with white limestone-slab roofs.

With almost no natural resources, Bermudans would eventually turn their attention to other sources of income. For centuries, Bermudan salt traders would spend six months of each year in the Turk & Caicos islands (click to read my TCI Travel Guide) where they harvested salt, which was then transported and sold in America.

Due to the Bermudan presence on the islands, Britain claimed TCI as a territory – a claim which continues today. Following territorial disputes with the Bahamas over the TCI, and a change in salt markets, the Bermuda salt trade ended.

A painting of a Bermudian Sloop.

A painting of a Bermudian Sloop.

In the 17th century, the islanders gave up on agriculture and instead turned their attention to the sea and everything maritime. For years, Bermuda Cedar had been used for ship building and the island had become famous for its shipyards.

Design refinements led to the development of the famous ‘Bermuda Sloop‘ which sailed faster than any other boat at the time. These speedy sloops were perfect for pirates and privateers and Bermudian merchant vessels turned to privateering at every opportunity during the 18th century – preying on the shipping of Spain, France and other nations.

During the American War of independence, Bermudian sympathisers sold sloops to American rebels through third-country ports. It’s said these sloops greatly aided the American war effort, allowing the Americans to defeat the British.

The massive Bermuda Floating Dockyard being transported from London to Bermuda.

The massive Bermuda Floating Dockyard being transported from London to Bermuda.

After the war, Britain (who had lost control of all it’s ports on the US east coast) turned it’s attention to fortifying Bermuda and creating a strategic regional Naval Dockyard on the island, the centre piece of which was the world’s 2nd largest floating dockyard, which was constructed on the River Thames (London) over a period of three years then towed across the Atlantic to Bermuda in 1869. Today you can view the semi-submerged rusty remains of the dockyard in the mouth of Spanish Point.

Since WWII, Bermuda has positioned itself as a centre for Offshore Banking – the main industry on the island – with tourism being second. The official currency of the island is the Bermudan Dollar, which is pegged to the US dollar. Businesses on the island accept payment in both currencies.

The Bermuda Blue Bird is featured on the Bermuda $2 bank note.

The Bermuda Blue Bird is featured on the Bermuda $2 bank note.

Architecture

Shops in St. Georges town with their white 'rainwater catchment' limestone rooftops.

Shops in St. Georges town with their white ‘rainwater catchment’ limestone rooftops.

As I flew into Bermuda, I couldn’t help but notice all the blindingly white rooftops reflecting the dazzling tropical sunlight. White rooftops are a unique architectural feature of the island, with every type of building sporting the same white pointy cap.

The reason for this is a very practical one – besides the fact that it also looks very pretty. On an island which lacks rivers or any other fresh water source, rainwater is the only source of fresh water and all rooftops are required (by law) to serve as rainwater catchments.

Painting at the Masterworks Art Gallery showing workers constructing a Bermudan rooftop.

Painting at the Masterworks Art Gallery showing workers constructing a Bermudan rooftop.

Roofs are constructed using limestone slabs (a natural filter), which step down to a trough which then directs water into underground holding tanks. All homes are painted in pretty pastel colours with thick stone walls designed to withstand hurricane-strength winds.


Bermuda Architecture

 


Sights

A map of Bermuda showing the different Parishes.

A map of Bermuda showing the different Parishes.

For a small island, Bermuda packs in a lot of sights – from historical towns, museums, galleries, gardens, old forts, stunning beaches, diving, snorkeling, sailing, hiking, bird watching and so much more. After ten days of zipping around on my scooter I still hadn’t covered everything.

Included here is a brief overview of sights from the most northern parish (St. Georges) to the most southern (Sandy’s):

St. Georges Parish

Today, a UNESCO world Heritage site, St. Georges served as the capital of Bermuda for the first 200 years.

Today, a UNESCO world Heritage site, St. Georges served as the capital of Bermuda for the first 200 years.

The UNESCO World Heritage listed St. Georges town was Bermuda’s first English settlement and served as the capital of Bermuda for its first 200 years. The town today is pleasantly renovated and offers a wealth of sights for visitors to explore:

  • St. Peters Church – the oldest Anglican church in the New World, which includes a segregated Slave Graveyard.
  • Somers Garden – where the heart of George Somers is buried.
  • Tucker House Museum – once home to Henry Tucker (former president of the Governors Council), this museum provides a view of life in a typical home from the 1700’s
Colourful St. Georges, the former capital of Bermuda.

Colourful St. Georges, the former capital of Bermuda.

  • Kings Square – the main square which includes the historic town hall.
  • Bermuda National Trust Museum – housed in the former Globe Hotel, this museum highlights Bermuda’s role in the American Civil War.
  • World Heritage Centre – Located on the waterfront, this renovated, former warehouse provides an overview of the history of St. Georges.

Apart from sightseeing, the town offers lots of boutique shopping, restaurants and cafes.

The Unfinished Church in St. Georges.

The Unfinished Church in St. Georges.

The Unfinished Church

Located on a hill overlooking St. George’s Town, construction of the Gothic-style Unfinished Church was commenced in 1874 but never completed due to lack of funds and disagreements between local parishioners. The site is administered by the Bermuda National Trust who have closed the grounds due to structural deterioration causing risks to visitors. You can walk around the perimeter fence from where you can take photos. The church is located on the aptly named Church Folly Lane.

Fort St. Catherine

Fort St. Catherine.

View of Catherine’s Beach from Fort St. Catherine.

Located over the hill from St. Georges town is beautiful St. Catherine’s Bay and Fort St. Catherine. The impressive fort is surrounded by a dry moat and accessed by a drawbridge and contains a large number of tunnels, towers and ramparts.

Today, the fort houses a museum, which is one of the more interesting on the island. It was just offshore from the fort that the Sea Venture was wrecked in 1609. The entire crew came ashore where the Fort St. Catherine now stands. Further along the north coast are several smaller forts which you can visit.

St. Catherine’s Bay

The Rainbow Parrot-fish is the largest herbivorous fish in the Atlantic with males reaching 1.2 metres.

The Rainbow Parrot-fish is the largest herbivorous fish in the Atlantic with males reaching 1.2 metres.
Source: www.arkive.org

The protected cove at St. Catherine’s Bay is ideal for swimming and offers good snorkeling. On the other side of the fort is the small, protected Achilles Bay. The bay offers good snorkeling and it’s here you have a chance of spotting the giant Rainbow Parrot fish. Further along the coast is the much more developed (and busier) Tobacco Bay.

Hamilton Parish

Crystal Cave

 Fantasy Cave, Bermuda.

The main chamber of Fantasy Cave.

The Crystal Cave complex is comprised of two caves (tickets sold separately) – Crystal Cave and Fantasy Cave. The caves were discovered in 1905 by two 12-year-old boys searching for a lost cricket ball and have been a tourist attraction ever since.

Native to Bermuda, the White-tailed Tropicbird or Longtail, seen here on the north coast of Hamilton parish.

Native to Bermuda, the White-tailed Tropicbird or Longtail, seen here on the north coast of Hamilton parish.

A great place to photograph the Longtail birds is along the north coast of Hamilton Parish – just to the north of Flatts village. This part of the coast is comprised of small cliffs where the birds have their nests.

Flatts Village

The colourful and very picturesque 'Flatts Village'.

The colourful and very picturesque ‘Flatts Village’.

Beautiful Flatts Village is located in a small inlet and is home to the Bermuda Zoo and Aquarium. It’s also home to the Village Pantry – a great place for breakfast and coffee (see ‘Eating Out‘ below).

Smiths Parish

Spittal Pond Nature Reserve

A Jamaican Anole at the Spittal Pond Nature Reserve.

A Jamaican Anole at the Spittal Pond Nature Reserve.

Located on the south coast of Smiths Parish, Spittal Pond Nature Reserve is the largest reserve on the island and is a great place to see the fauna of Bermuda. The reserve stretches along south shore and features an 8-acre Spittal Pond, a large brackish pond (home to Egrets, Herons etc), surrounded by marsh and woodland areas.
A recent introduction to Bermuda, the Yellow-crowned night heron at Spittal Pond Nature Reserve.

A recent introduction to Bermuda, the Yellow-crowned night heron, at Spittal Pond Nature Reserve.

Devonshire Parish

Arborteum

A Jamaican Anole at the Arborteum.

A Jamaican Anole at the Arborteum.

One sight worth visiting in Devonshire Parish is the Arborteum. Once British army property, this national park covers 22 acres of trees, shrubs, meadows and forest. If you wish to photograph the Bermuda Eastern Blue Bird, you’ll find them here.

The star of the $2 bank note, the Bermuda Eastern Blue Bird, at the Arborteum.

The star of the $2 bank note, the Bermuda Eastern Blue Bird, at the Arborteum.

Pembroke Parish

Hamilton – the bustling capital of Bermuda. 

Bermuda Travel Guide: Front street, the main street in downtown Hamilton.

Front street, the main street in downtown Hamilton.

Capital of the island since 1815, Hamilton is a small, vibrant and a friendly city. It’s the heart and commercial hub of the island. Front Street runs along the waterfront and is the life and soul of the city. It’s here you’ll find shops, bars, cafes and restaurants.

The Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity in Hamilton.

The Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity in Hamilton.

Away from the waterfront,  you’ll find the Bermuda Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity, City Hall and Bermuda Art Gallery.

The Cenotaph and the Cabinet Building in Hamilton.

The Cenotaph and the Cabinet Building in Hamilton.

 

The Sessions House houses the chambers for Bermuda's House of Assembly & the Supreme Court.

The Sessions House houses the chambers for Bermuda’s House of Assembly & the Supreme Court.

Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute

Artwork at the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute.

Artwork at the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute.

Located on the outskirts of Hamilton is the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI), whose aim is to enhance understanding (through interactive exhibits) of the ocean including its diverse marine life, corals etc. The museum also includes information on Bermuda ship wrecks, including treasure found from diving expeditions.

Masterworks Art Gallery

Artwork at the Masterworks Art Gallery.

Artwork at the Masterworks Art Gallery.

Located inside the Bermuda Botanical Garden, Masterworks Art Gallery is a non-profit organization dedicated to art made in and inspired by Bermuda. The gallery displays some 1400 masterpiece collections including paintings, photographs, drawings and maps. The gallery cafe is a wonderful place for lunch.

Warwick Parish

Warwick Long Bay Beach

A view of Warwick Long Bay beach on the south coast.

A view of Warwick Long Bay beach on the south coast.

Located on a quiet stretch of the south coast, Warwick Long Bay Beach is a fabulous, beautiful half-mile stretch of pink sand. The pink hue is caused by the crushed shells of a microscopic organism called foraminifera. 

Storm clouds over Warwick Beach, one of the finer beaches on the south coast of Bermuda.

Storm clouds over Warwick Beach, one of the finer beaches on the south coast of Bermuda.

The turquoise water is ideal for swimming and there are plenty of quiet little coves either side of the main beach.

Southhampton Parish

Horseshoe Bay Beach

Storm approaching Horseshoe Bay Beach

Storm approaching Horseshoe Bay Beach.

Ranked in 2016 by Conde Nast Traveller as one Top 20 beaches in the world – stunning Horseshoe Bay Beach features a curved stretch of pink sand against the blue waters of the Atlantic.

Gibbs Hill Lighthouse

Gibbs Hill Lighthouse is the tallest lighthouse on Bermuda and was one of the first lighthouses in the world to be made of cast-iron.

Gibbs Hill Lighthouse is the tallest lighthouse on Bermuda and was one of the first lighthouses in the world to be made of cast-iron.

Perched high on a hill, overlooking everything in Southhampton Parish, is the Gibbs Hill Lighthouse – the tallest lighthouse on Bermuda and was one of the first lighthouses in the world to be made of cast-iron. For the most panoramic view of Bermuda, you can climb the 185 steps to the top outdoor viewing platform.

Sandy’s Parish

Royal Naval Dockyard

View of the Royal Naval Dockyard precinct from the Bermuda National Museum.

View of the Royal Naval Dockyard precinct from the Bermuda National Museum.

The Royal Naval Dockyard was once used as a British navy base but today plays hosts to cruise ships and hoards of cruise ship passengers.

The historic area around the dockyard is home to the National Museum of Bermuda and the Clock-tower Shopping mall, where you’ll find lots of tacky souvenir shops housed inside an impressive British Navy warehouse, restaurants and cafes.

National Museum of Bermuda

Set in the old Commissioners House, the National Museum of Bermuda provides a comprehensive history of the Island.

Set in the old Commissioners House, the National Museum of Bermuda provides a comprehensive history of the Island.

The best museum on the island, the National Museum of Bermuda is housed inside an old fortress – The Keep – and provides a comprehensive history of the island and it’s culture.

The centre-piece of the museum is the Old Commissioners House, the oldest cast iron house in the world, which was built in 1820 in the Georgian style.

The former State Dining Room inside the Old Commissioners House.

The former State Dining Room inside the Old Commissioners House.

The house contains two floors of exhibits, including a photographic exhibit of the Long-tail bird by former Bermuda resident (and famous Australian TV producer) Reg Grundy.

Somerset Bridge

Somerset Bridge - The world's smallest drawbridge.

Somerset Bridge – The world’s smallest drawbridge.

Also in Sandy’s Parish, built in 1860, the quirky Somerset Bridge is the world’s smallest drawbridge.

A taxi crossing Somerset Bridge.

A taxi crossing Somerset Bridge.

The bridge is made up of two halves with an 18-inch wide piece of timber placed between the spans to bridge the gap between the two. This piece of timber can be opened (by hand) to allow the mast of a small sailing boat to pass through.

Scuba Diving

While it looks ideal, Bermuda is surrounded by a treacherous fringing reef which has claimed many ships in the past.

While it looks ideal, Bermuda is surrounded by a treacherous fringing reef which has claimed many ships in the past.

The fringing reef which surrounds Bermuda has claimed many ships over the centuries – all of which has created a diving playground. I did a two-tank dive with Dive Bermuda who have their shop at the Grotto Bay Resort in Hamilton Parish.

The dives cost just under $200 which included all equipment, boat transfers and as much water as you care to drink. Food is not provided on the (half-day) trip so if you get peckish between dives you should bring something along.

Our two dives were at the wreck of the Cristobal Colon (very fragmented/ dispersed wreck) and then North Rock, both a 50 minute boat ride from the island on the north-west side of the seamount. 

Accommodation

In a word – expensive! Most hotels on the island are upscale resorts/ hotels catering to tourists with deep pockets. There are no budget hotels or hostels. If you are on a budget it’s best to look at options on either Couchsurfing.com or Airbnb.com

Eating out

There are a variety of restaurants on the island catering for all budgets. Most places which serve mainly tourists/ ex-pats charge high prices and additionally add a 17% gratuity to the bill. You can avoid all of this by eating in local cafes.

Local Restaurants

Of the local ‘cheapies’, my favourites include:

  • Rotisserie Grill (South road in Smith’s Parish) – Always popular, this restaurant offers roast chicken meals with mashed potato and salads for under $15. Homemade desserts are also available.
  • Pizza House Restaurant (several branches on the island) – makes a mean pizza and roast/ fried chicken meals with salads and vegetables.
  • The Spot Restaurant (Cedar Avenue in downtown Hamilton) – cooking here is hit and miss but its hard to beat their prices. One of the cheapest places in the heart of Hamilton.

Tourist Restaurants/ Bars

The most interesting bar on Bermuda has to be the Swizzle Inn, where the legendary national cocktail was created.

The most interesting bar on Bermuda has to be the Swizzle Inn, where the legendary national cocktail was created.

Of the tourist restaurants, the Swizzle Inn is a local institution, which was responsible for developing the national cocktail – the Rum Swizzle. For those who are thirsty, the good news is – there are two branches on the island – one in the north at Baileys Bay (the original pub – located across the road from the Crystal Cave) and one in the south on the South Shore Road.

Apart from great cocktails, the food menu is very good with blackboards dinner specials every evening and trivia and other activities during the week – plus you can leave a permanent mark on the island by adding your scrawl to the walls.

A Guinness promotional poster at Flanagan's Irish Bar in Hamilton

A Guinness promotional poster at Flanagan’s Irish Bar in Hamilton

Located on Front street in downtown Hamilton, Flanagan’s Irish Bar is popular with tourists and locals for its extensive food and drinks menu. A great way to soak up the ambiance of Hamilton is to have dinner on the balcony overlooking the harbour.

If you are looking for dinner or drinks in St. Georges, I would highly recommend the waterfront Wahoo’s Bistro & Patio. The menu at Wahoo’s combines local and European influences from the Austrian-born head chef (and joint owner) Alfred Konard. The fish here is especially good.

Cocktails

The national drink of Bermuda is the Rum Swizzle, which was developed by the folks at the Swizzle Inn but is sold all over the island.

How to prepare a Rum Swizzle:

The national cocktail of Bermuda, the 'Rum Swizzle', which was created at the Swizzle Inn.

The national cocktail of Bermuda, the ‘Rum Swizzle’, which was created at the Swizzle Inn.

Ingredients (makes 6):

  • 4 oz Gosling’s Black Seal Rum
  • 4 oz Gosling’s Gold Rum
  • 5 oz Pineapple Juice
  • 5 oz Orange Juice
  • ¾ oz Grenadine or 2 oz Bermuda Falernum
  • 6 Dashes of Angostura Bitters

Method: 

  • Into a pitcher ⅓ full of crushed ice – add Gosling’s Black Seal Rum, Gosling’s Gold Rum, pineapple juice, orange juice, Grenadine or Bermuda Falernum and Angostura bitters.
  • Churn vigorously until a frothing appears or mix in a cocktail shaker.
  • Strain into a martini glass.

Another favourite cocktail is the simple but tasty Dark ‘N’ Stormy – made with dark rum (the ‘dark’) and ginger beer (the ‘stormy’) served over ice and garnished with a slice of lime.

An island staple - the Dark 'n' Stormy cocktail.

An island staple – the Dark ‘n’ Stormy cocktail.

Cafes

As with every other destination, I was on a mission during my 10 days to find the best coffee on Bermuda. Finding a good coffee is not easy but after an exhaustive search, I can say the best coffee is served at the Devils Isle Cafe in downtown Hamilton. The cafe is open from early morning, which is a good thing since their breakfast offering is also one of the best on the island.

If you’re anywhere near the Flatts village, you’ll be happy to know the folks from Devils Isle Cafe are also responsible for the Village Pantry. I was staying up the road, so I started most days with breakfast here and would recommend the Avocado Crush (like guacamole on toast) with a poached egg added on top.

The best coffee in St. Georges is served at the CV Cafe in downtown St. Georges.

 

Visa Requirements

Bermuda Passport Stamp.

Bermuda Passport Stamp.

Despite being a British Overseas Territory, Bermuda maintains it’s own visa policy. All flight and cruise ship arrivals into Bermuda are from just three countries – United States, Canada and the United Kingdom. All visitors to Bermuda must have a return ticket and the right to re-enter one of those three countries. You can check your requirements here.

Getting There

By Air

Around 1/3 of tourists (235,000 in 2015) to Bermuda fly into LF Wade International Airport – the only airport on the island. The airport is located in the northern parish of St. Georges and (due to the fact that most flights are between the US and Bermuda) offers US immigration/ customs pre-clearance, which means US-bound passengers clear Customs & immigration in Bermuda so flights arriving in the US from Bermuda are thus treated as domestic flights. At the time of my visit a new, bigger terminal was being constructed.

The following airlines provide flights to the island:

  • Air Canada – Flight to Toronto–Pearson
  • American Airlines – Flights to Miami, New York–JFK, Philadelphia
  • British Airways – Flight to London-Gatwick
  • Delta Air Lines – Flights to Atlanta, Boston, New York–JFK
  • JetBlue Airways – Flights to Boston, New York–JFK
  • WestJet – Flight to Toronto–Pearson

By Sea

Carnival Cruise Ship, Bermuda

Most tourists to Bermuda arrive on a cruise ship from the United States.

Around 2/3 of tourists (385,000 in 2015) to Bermuda arrive on cruise ships, with most being American tourists on ships from the east coast of the US. All ships berth at either the Royal Naval Dockyard (2 berths) or, for smaller ships in downtown Hamilton (2 berths).

The two berths at Royal Naval Dockyard, Kings Wharf and Heritage Wharf, occupy the same long pier, and is where most cruise ship passengers will find themselves.

The other two berths are located in downtown Hamilton, alongside Front street but due to overcrowding in town (when ships are docked), authorities allow few ships to berth in the capital.

A Norwegian Cruise Line ship, docked at the Royal Naval dockyard.

A Norwegian Cruise Line ship, docked at the Royal Naval dockyard.

Bermuda is a sailing paradise and attracts yachts from around the world, hence a small number of visitors (less than 1%) arrive by private yacht.

Getting Around

Ferry

A map showing the four different Bermuda Ferry Routes.

A map showing the four different Bermuda Ferry Routes.
Source: http://www.bermudaforvisitors.com

There are four ferry routes operating in Bermuda – a Blue, Pink, Green and Orange route. While I was exploring the island on my scooter, I always looked to incorporate a ferry trip into my journey.

Ferry journeys save a lot of time as distances across the water are considerably shorter than those on land where roads are narrow, windy and long.

Passengers pay $5 a ticket and you are able to take your bike or scooter on-board for an extra $5. The ferry journey from Hamilton to Royal Navy Dockyard is 20 minutes, versus the road journey of almost an hour.

Bus

Bermuda bus routes

Bermuda bus routes
Source: https://www.bermudayp.com

Government-operated pink (inspired by the colour of the pink sand beaches) public buses provide comprehensive coverage across the entire island on 11 different routes from the main terminal in Hamilton.

Fares are very reasonable, buses run frequently (i.e. until 7-pm) and service is very good. Since there is no car hire on Bermuda and taxi’s can be expensive, bus is a good transport option for visitors who do not want to hire a scooter.

Taxi

Taxi’s are available for hire, but like everything else on Bermuda, they’re not cheap. A taxi from one end of the island (St. Georges) to the other (Royal Navy Dockyard) will cost around $78.

Car

A fleet of Renault Twizy's, at the Hamilton Princess Hotel in Bermuda.

A fleet of Renault Twizy’s, at the Hamilton Princess Hotel in Bermuda.

There is no car rental on Bermuda, however a small fleet of electric Renault Twizy’s are now available for rent from Current Vehicles, located in the car park at the front of the Hamilton Princess hotel in downtown Hamilton. 

The Twizy is an over-sized shopping trolley, able to carry two (smallish) passengers, with the second passenger tucked tightly in behind the driver. The cars were originally bought onto the island as support vehicles for the America’s Cup (June 2017).

An interior view of the cosy Renault Twizy.

An interior view of the cosy Renault Twizy.

Scooter

A scooter is the best way to explore an island where rental cars are banned.

A scooter is the best way to explore an island where rental cars are banned.

In the absence of car rental options (and apart from the recently introduced Twizy’s), scooter is the only rental option for those who wish to explore the island independently.

There are various scooter rental companies around Bermuda, all of whom seem to charge similar (i.e. high) rates. Prices start at $55 per day and reduce on a sliding scale, so the longer you hire the cheaper it becomes. I rented my bike through (and would recommend) Oleander Cycles – my ten day rental averaged out at $30 per day.

All companies will drop-off and pick-up their scooters from anywhere on the island and they require all drivers to do a short driving test before they will agree to rent you a scooter – they will not rent you a scooter if you appear to be less-than-confident on two wheels.

 


That’s the end of my Bermuda Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren


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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide Bermuda Travel Guide

Palawan Travel Report

"Palawan Blues".

Palawan Travel Report

This is a short Palawan travel report from a dive trip to El Nido.

Date of Visit: March 2017

Introduction

Looking like a swimming pool, this was the first dive site for our day of diving.

Looking like a swimming pool, this was the first dive site for our day of diving.

Recently I flew to the Philippine island of Palawan to do some diving and snorkeling in the stunningly beautiful turquoise waters which surround the town of El Nido.

Getting There

Philippines

Getting to Palawan is very easy, thanks to frequent air connections from Manila’s Ninoy Aquino International Airport by Philippine Airlines, Cebu Pacific Air and Philippines Air Asia.

These airlines fly multiple times a day into Puerto Princesa airport, which is located downtown in the provincial capital of the same name. At the time of my visit, a big, new, modern terminal was under construction.

One thing that surprised me about Palawan is just how long the island is – stretching 450 km between the islands of Mindoro (to the north) and Borneo (to the south).

Reaching El Nido (250 km to the north of Puerto Princesa) required a 5 hour mini-bus transfer. There are lots of private operators running buses along the route so competition is fierce. Buses run often and a ticket will cost you no more than 600 peso’s (US$12).

Accommodation

El Nido

The once sleepy fishing village of El Nido is today one busy tourist town.

Rampant development has converted this seaside hamlet into one big backpacker hostel with a few upmarket ‘flashpacker’ places in between.

The streets of El Nido are packed with guest houses and I had no problem securing a room as a ‘walk in’.

Puerto Princesa

If you wish to overnight in Puerto Princesa, you are spoilt for choice.

I stayed at the newly opened, immaculately clean, well-run and very friendly Casa Belina. The hotel provides free airport transfers if requested.

El Nido

Snorkelling

There are many operators in El Nido selling the same four island hopping/ snorkeling packages – package A, B, C & D.

You can view the different packages here.

Snorkeling trip at El Nido, Palawan

On our way to our first snorkeling spot for the day.

Due to a lot of competition prices are kept low, with a typical day out costing just P1,200 (US$24).

Helicopter Island, El Nido, Palawan

Approaching ‘Helicopter’ island, our first snorkeling stop for the day.

Included in this are boat transfers around the islands of the national park, drinking water, lunch and snorkeling equipment.

Approaching another idyllic beach where we would break for lunch.

Approaching another idyllic beach where we would break for lunch.

 

Another stunning snorkeling spot near El Nido.

Another stunning snorkeling spot near El Nido.

 

The sheer, limestone uprisings of the El Nido National park provide a dramatic backdrop to turquoise bays.

The sheer, limestone uprisings of the El Nido National park provide a dramatic backdrop to turquoise bays.

Diving

If you wish to dive, you’ll find a good choice of dive shops along the main street adjacent to the beach.

I chose to dive with Palawan Divers who offered three dives (including boat transfers, all equipment and a buffet lunch) for under US$100.

We also had a professional underwater photographer join us for the day so I’ve been able to include some images from the dives below.

Me, descending into the turquoise depths of El Nido Bay on my first dive for the day.

Me, descending into the turquoise depths of El Nido Bay on my first dive for the day.

The waters around El Nido are part of the El Nido-Taytay Managed Resource Protected Area – the largest marine sanctuary in the Philippines. 

All A-OK on my dive at El Nido.

All A-OK on my dive at El Nido.

Divers & snorkelers are required to pay P200 (US$4) to enter the waters of the marine park but are rewarded with an abundance of marine life and a vast array of corals.   


The following file photos have kindly been provided by Palawan Divers.

A beautiful Clown fish at El Nido.

A beautiful Clown fish at El Nido.

A highlight of the day was swimming over a huge field of cabbage corals at South Miniloc. This coral garden was first discovered by Jacques Cousteau in the 1970’s. The fields are home to large schools of yellow snapper.

Yellow Snapper at South Miniloc.

Yellow Snapper at South Miniloc.


As a marine protected area, the reserve counts 447 species of coral, 5 species of marine turtles, 888 species of fish and 1700 species of crustaceans – in other words – it’s a diver’s dream!

A magical rendezvous as I approach a Hawksbill turtle.

A magical rendezvous as I approach a Hawks bill turtle.

 


That’s the end of this report from beautiful Palawan.

Safe Travels!

Darren


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Further Reading

Other reports from the region:

Palawan Travel Report Palawan Travel Report Palawan Travel Report

Palau Travel Guide

Bai at Aimeliik.

Palau Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Palau Travel Guide!

Date Visited: February 2017 – March 2017

Introduction

There I was – on a dive, 20 metres below the surface of the Pacific Ocean, clinging to a large boulder that was firmly embedded in the seabed of the German channel. The current washing through the channel from the outgoing tide was strong but I was determined to keep my grip and await the arrival of a creature I had always dreamed of seeing up close. I would not be disappointed!

After some time a large shadow slowly loomed over me, blocking out the rays of the sun above, it was a large adult Manta Ray, a species which can grow to seven metres in width. It was soon joined by another – equally large – Manta Ray.

I was positioned at a cleaning station in the channel – the two giants floated two metres above me, being cleaned by an army of cleaner fish. To be so close to such magnificent creatures is an unforgettable experience – a highlight for any diver.

The Palau Ground Frog is endemic to Palau.

The Palau Ground Frog is endemic to Palau.

Diving is Palau’s main draw-card. The island nation is well known for its abundant marine life, anti-shark fishing policy and strict environmental regulations which apply inside the Palau National Marine Sanctuary – the world’s sixth largest sanctuary, covering an area twice the size of Mexico. At the centre of the sanctuary are the Rock Islands – 300 uninhabited limestone bumps surrounded by the most amazing turquoise water teeming with marine life.

The spectacular Rock Islands.

The spectacular Rock Islands.
Source: http://www.allamazingplaces.com/rock-islands-palau/rock-islands-southern-lagoon-chelbacheb-palau-pacific/

Palau also has a fabulously rich, complex and unique culture – one which is still actively practiced. Colourful, traditional meeting houses, known as Bai’s, dot the landscape. Wooden carvings, known as ‘storyboards’, tell traditional folk stories.

All of this makes Palau an interesting and engaging destination for those willing to get off the beaten track. This remote, pristine Pacific island nation is not easy to reach – and – once there, is very expensive – but – it’s definitely worth the effort and cost.

Detail of a traditional Bai at the Belau National museum.

Detail of a traditional Bai at the Belau National museum.

Location

Palau is located in the middle of the Western Pacific, about 1,600 km (1,000 miles) southwest of Guam and 1,000 km (600 miles) east of the Philippines.

History

Palau's Capitol Building.

Palau’s Capitol Building.

The first inhabitants of Palau arrived 3,000 years ago from the Philippines. The first Europeans to make contact with the islands were the Spanish in the 16th century – they made Palau a part of the Spanish East Indies in 1574. Following Spain’s defeat in the Spanish-American war in 1898, the islands were sold to German who administered them as part of German New Guinea. The Japanese captured Palau during WWI and occupied them until their defeat in WWII by the United States.

Traditional Palau 'storyboard' wood carving.

Traditional Palau ‘storyboard’ wood carving.

In 1947, Palau (along with the Northern Mariana Islands, Federated States of Micronesia and the Marshall Islands) was made part of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, which was administered by the United States. In 1979 Palau voted against joining the newly independent Federated States of Micronesia, gaining full sovereignty in 1994 under a Compact of Free Association with the United States. The official currency of Palau is the US dollar.

Flag

The flag of Palau.

The flag of Palau.

Introduced in 1981, the flag of Palau is wonderfully minimal but also strikingly beautiful. As with other Pacific island nations, the blue field represents the blue of the Pacific ocean while the yellow disk, which is slightly off-centre, represents the moon.

The Palauan’s consider the full moon to be the optimum time for human activity. At this time of the month, celebrations, fishing, sowing, harvesting, tree-felling, and the carving of traditional canoes are carried out. The moon is a symbol of peace, love, and tranquility.

Currency

US Dollar

The US Dollar.

Being a former member of the US-administered Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, the official currency of Palau is the US dollar.

Sights

Traditional Bai (meeting house) at Aimeliik.

Traditional Bai (meeting house) at Aimeliik.

Palau National Marine Sanctuary

The star attraction of Palau are the incredibly beautiful (World Heritage listed) Rock Islands – 300 (uninhabited) emerald-coloured, limestone/ coral mounds sprinkled throughout the stunningly picturesque turquoise-coloured southern lagoon between the islands of Koror and Peleliu.

As part of the Palau National Marine Sanctuary, this pristine, virgin environment is protected by a host of regulations. It’s here that you’ll find Palau’s most popular dive sites such as Blue Corner, Blue hole, German Channel and the famous Jellyfish lake – a lake that was home to thousands of sting-less jellyfish. At the time of my visit (March 2017), there were no jellyfish present in the lake so snorkeling trips were not being offered. Scientists believe droughts caused by El Niño may be to blame – you can read more about this in this National Geographic article.

I did two dives – one at German Channel and one at Blue Corner – with local dive operator Fish ‘n Fins. Like everything else on Palau, diving does not come cheap, with a two tank dive (including full equipment rental and a permit to the Marine Sanctuary) costing me almost $300. Prices do become more reasonable if you book multiple days of diving.

German Channel – named after the Germans who blasted a channel through the reef to facilitate transportation of phosphate into Koror – is famous for it’s Manta Ray cleaning stations. The stations are located at a depth of 20 m and on my dive we saw several of these huge, majestic creatures receiving a clean. The current can be quite strong during tidal movements but there are plenty of rocky outcrops to hold onto. The rock I used as my anchor was home to a beautiful octopus who kept sticking his head out of his hiding hole to see if I was still there. Between him and the Manta Rays it was a wonderful hour-long interaction.

 

Blue Corner - one of my dive sights on Palau.

Blue Corner – one of my dive sights on Palau.
Source: Kristine Barsky

Blue Corner is an underwater promontory sticking out of the reef like a triangular terrace twenty meters deep. Precipitous walls surround the terrace and are the favoured congregating ground for large schools of fish, including barracuda, jacks and lots of reef sharks. All of these schools attract plenty of predators and during our one hour dive I lost count of the number of sharks we saw. The abundance of marine life in this little corner of the Pacific is truly amazing.

Babeldaob

The Capitol Building at Ngerulmud, the tiny capital of Palau.

The Capitol Building at Ngerulmud, the tiny capital of Palau.

Back on land, I spent one day exploring the main (largest) island of Babeldaob in my rental car. Driving around the island is very pleasant thanks to the well-maintained, American-built Palau Compact road. The road circuits the island and can be easily driven in a few hours. Making stops at the various attractions along the way, you should allow half a day.

Babeldaob is home to Palau’s airport, it’s capital, Ngerulmud, and ten of the sixteen states. Each state on the island charges visitors an ‘entrance fee‘ to visit any sites within it’s boundaries. The fees can be up to $20 per person per state so it’s best to decide in advance which sites (and hence which states) you wish to visit. There are almost no restaurants on Babeldaob – the one place I was directed to was the wonderful seaside Okemii Deli & Internet Café in Melekeok. The café offers grilled local seafood along with other café staples.

Emerald tree skink at Papago International resort in Airai state.

Emerald tree skink at Papago International resort in Airai state.

The first state you enter after crossing the causeway from Koror to Babeldaob is Airai. Here you can decide to turn left onto the Palau Compact road and travel clock-wise around Babeldaob or turn right and travel anti-clockwise. Airai is home to the airport and several significant war ruins, including Kaigun Sho – a bombed Japanese communications centre. The state ‘entrance fee’ for visitors is $20 and eager government rangers are out in force patrolling sites to ensure tourists have paid their fee.

Palau Travel Report: Mangrove walkway at Papago International Resort, Airai state.

Mangrove walkway at Papago International Resort, Airai state.

One place worth visiting is the Mangrove walkway at the Papago International resort (5 minutes drive from the airport). For a small fee, visitors can access the resorts’ mangrove boardwalk. It’s a great place to spot birds and other wildlife.

Detail of Aimeliik Bai.

Detail of Aimeliik Bai.

Travelling in a clockwise direction around the island, the next state you enter is Aimeliik – home to one of the oldest villages in Palau and also home to a beautiful hilltop Bai.

Interior of the Aimeliik Bai.

Interior of the Aimeliik Bai.

The state ‘entrance fee’ for visitors is $10 and can be paid at the ticket office next to the Bai.

Palau Gravel Gudie: Bai at Aimeliik.

Bai at Aimeliik.

At the northern end of the island, you can visit Badrulchau monoliths – 37 basalt stone pillars (believed to be foundations from a building) from around 100 AD. Just south of the monoliths – on the north-east coast is the tiny state of Ngiwal (population – 220) – home to one coastal village with sandy beaches.

Low tide at Ngiwal state beach.

Low tide at Ngiwal state beach.

Continuing south you will eventually reach Melekeok state, home to the national capital enclave of Ngerulmud. With a population of just 270, Melekeok is the least-populous capital in the world.

The capital complex at Ngerulmud, a purpose-built capital.

The capital complex at Ngerulmud, a purpose-built capital.

The capital complex is very grand and impressive but not too interesting. You are not allowed to access any of the buildings (I did try to enter the Capital building and was promptly asked to leave by security) but you can wander around the grounds and take photos.

Okemii Deli & Internet Café is located on the beach downhill from the capital complex. There is (apparently) an impressive Bai in Melekeok state but this was closed for renovation at the time of my visit.

Capital buildings, Ngerulmud.

Capital buildings, Ngerulmud.

Koror

Koror is the centre of action on Palau. With 70% of the population and almost all tourists services, Koror is where visitors spend most of their time. This narrow, busy island is traversed by one long, main (permanently congested) road. Along this road are hotels, dive shops, banks, shops, cafes, bars, restaurants, government offices etc. The southern end of the island is home to upmarket resorts, built around quiet, pristine coves.

Traditional Bai at the Belau National museum in Koror.

Traditional Bai at the Belau National museum in Koror.

Belau National Museum

There are two museums on Koror – the older Belau National museum (oldest museum in Micronesia) is home to a beautifully painted Bai and two floors of exhibits, which detail the complete history of Palau.

Detail of Bai at the Belau National Museum.

Detail of Bai at the Belau National Museum.

Etpison Museum

The newer Etpison Museum (named after a former president) is the place to come if you are looking for somewhere to develop a better understanding of Palau culture. The admission cost of $10 is a little steep for such a small museum – but this is Palau.

A display at the Etpison Museum in Koror. 

A display at the Etpison Museum in Koror.

Displays include; a model of a bai; local tools; artefacts; money; clothing; photos showing the childbirth ceremony and more. For Australians visiting the museum – you might be surprised to be greeted by two friendly sulphur-crested cockatoo’s that are kept in a cage inside the front door. Cockatoos were previously introduced to Palau from Australia.

Translucent turtle-shell bowls at the Etpison museum in Koror.

Translucent turtle-shell bowls at the Etpison museum in Koror.

Story Board Wood Carvers

A 'story board' wood carver at his workshop in Koror.

A ‘story board’ wood carver at his workshop in Koror.

If you’re impressed by the traditional ‘storyboard’ wood carvings displayed at the Etpison museum, you should ask staff for directions to the resident expert carver. His roadside studio is located in a side street a short walk north of the museum (turn left at the Blue Bay petrol station).

A Palau 'story board' wood carver in Koror.

A Palau ‘story board’ wood carver in Koror.

Storyboards were introduced into Palau by a Japanese artist during the Japanese occupation of Palau and adapted by the islanders to record their own traditions. The stories that are told on the Palau storyboards are usually old Palau-an legends. You can watch the carvers at work and purchase directly from them (no bargains here).

A traditional Palau 'story board' wood carving.

A traditional Palau ‘story board’ wood carving.

Accommodation

The Hotel Palau Royal Resort.

The Hotel Palau Royal Resort.

Most hotels can be found on the island of Koror – a 30 minute drive from the airport. Like everything else on Palau – accommodation is not cheap. I stayed at the Japanese-owned DW Motel, which is located on the main road close to downtown. The first half of my stay coincided with their peak season, which meant I was charged $140 per night for my single room (definitely not worth the money but it was the cheapest place I could find). The second half of my stay was charged at $70 per night which was more reasonable but still over-priced. Breakfast is not included but you are provided with a clean, small, spartan (TV-less) room.

On the south side of the island are larger, more upmarket resorts. Many of the hotels on the island are Taiwanese-run and not registered on popular OTA (Online Travel Agent) sites such as booking.com

You should ensure you organise airport shuttle transfers in advance – do not assume taxi’s will be available at the airport when you arrive.

Eating Out

While traditional island cuisine is based on root vegetables, pork, chicken, and seafood – there has been enough outside influence (especially from America, Japan and – more recently – Taiwan) on the island that ensures local restaurants cater to a variety of tastes. Strung along the main road of Koror is a good selection of restaurants.

One of my favourite places is the fabulous Rock Island Cafe, an American-diner inspired restaurant staffed by friendly Filipino’s (they constitute the main labour force on the island). The cafe is open from early morning, offering possibly the best (and most reasonably priced) breakfast on the island. They have a bakery next door which supplies the cafe with amazing cakes which are sold very cheaply along with their freshly brewed coffees.

In the south, on the small island of Malakal is the Drop Off Bar and Grill. This outdoor, waterfront venue is perfect for sipping drinks and enjoying fresh local seafood and more.

Visa Requirements

Palau passport stamps.

Palau passport stamps.

Some visitors require visas to enter Palau, check your requirements prior to arrival.

Palau Entry Form

All passengers flying into Palau must submit the Palau Entry Form at most 72 hours before departure.

This will generate a QR code, which must be presented on a mobile device or printed copy during check-in and upon arrival.

Getting There

By Air

Airport

Flights to Palau arrive at Palau International Airport (IATA: ROR), also known as Roman Tmetuchl International Airport. 

The airport is located 6-km north of Koror.

Airlines

The following airlines provide connections to/from Palau (Updated: August 2024):

  • Air Niugini – flies to/ from Port Moresby, Tokyo–Narita (from 29 October 2024)
  • Belau Air – flies to/ from Angaur, Peleliu
  • Cambodia Angkor Air – flies to/ from Hong Kong, Phnom Penh
  • Caroline Islands Air – flies to/ from Yap
  • China Airlines – flies to/ from Taipei–Taoyuan
  • Jeju Air – flies to/ from Seoul–Incheon
  • Nauru Airlines Brisbane – flies to/ from Majuro, Nauru, Pohnpei, Tarawa
  • Pacific Missionary Aviation – flies to/ from Angaur, Peleliu, Yap
  • United Airlines – flies to/ from Guam, Manila

Departure Tax

Departure tax from Palau is a hefty $50 and is comprised of $25 terminal fee and $25 environmental fee.

Nauru Airlines

Nauru Airlines route map - as of August 2024.

Nauru Airlines route map – as of August 2024.

Nauru Airlines offer regular connections to many destinations in the Central Pacific, including Palau, from their base at Brisbane International Airport.

An especially useful connection, for those already travelling in the South Pacific, is the airline’s regular flight from Nadi (Fiji) which offers connections to the Central Pacific.

Email address of the airline’s Brisbane office: book@ourtravel.com.au

Getting Around

Bus

There is no public transportation on Palau.

Taxi

Taxi’s are available around Koror – but almost non-existent elsewhere. It’s always best to book a taxi in advance rather than trying to hail one on the street. The fare from Koror to the airport is $25.

When I arrived at the airport (early evening flight from Guam) there were no taxis available. The friendly lady from the tourist information desk tried to arrange a taxi, but no drivers were willing to come out to the airport. She closed the information desk and drove me in her car to my hotel (providing me with a guided tour of the island along the way).

Car

Palau License Plates.

Palau License Plates.

Hire cars are available, but like everything else on Palau – they’re not cheap. At the airport, Alamo quoted $70 a day for a compact car. I shopped around in Koror and found an old (compact) clunker which cost me $40 per day. Cars are often worn and old but the speed limit is 50 km/h and distances are not great.

Palau is divided into sixteen states (most states have just a few hundred residents) with each state having their own number plate.

 


That’s the end of my Palau Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren


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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Pacific region:

Palau Travel Guide Palau Travel Guide Palau Travel Guide Palau Travel Guide Palau Travel Guide Palau Travel Guide Palau Travel Guide Palau Travel Guide

Panama Travel Report

A colourfully painted Panama Hat.

Panama Travel Report

Date of Visit: 14/07/2017 – 25/07/2017

Introduction

I’ve just completed a twelve day trip to Panama, my 4th visit to this dynamic Central American destination. For years the government has focused on building bigger and better infrastructure and the good news for travelers is that (due to it’s efforts) accessing Panama has never been easier.

One of the oldest cities in the Americas, Panama City is full of Spanish-style architectural gems.

One of the oldest cities in the Americas, Panama City is full of Spanish-style architectural gems.

The route network of Copa Airlines’ (the national carrier) continues to grow and today, the airline provides frequent connections to most major cities in the Americas (and to some European cities) from their hub at Tocumen airport in Panama City.

The new Norman Forster-designed airport terminal at Tocumen airport.

The new Norman Forster-designed airport terminal at Tocumen airport.

All of this increased aviation activity has resulted in Tocumen airport becoming the busiest in Central America – a true regional hub. It has also meant that the existing terminal is operating beyond capacity. To remedy this, a new Norman Forster designed terminal is currently being built. This is due to open later this year and will solidify Panama City’s regional ‘hub’ status.

Whenever I'm in Panama City, I treat myself to a new Panama hat.

Whenever I’m in Panama City, I treat myself to a new Panama hat.

Location

Panama

Located on the Isthmus of Panama, a narrow bridge of land that connects North and South America, Panama has always stood at a crossroads.

To the north lies Costa Rica and the countries of Central America. To the south lies Colombia and the continent of South America. On either side of the isthmus lie the Pacific ocean and the Caribbean sea.

The country is most famous for its canal which cuts through the isthmus at Panama City.

Panama Travel Report: Panama City old town.

Panama City old town.

Flag

The flag of Panama.

The flag of Panama.

The iconic flag of Panama is red, white and blue and is divided into four quarters with two white rectangles – one blue, and one red, with the white rectangles charged with a single red and blue star. As far as flag design is concerned, I believe the Panamanian flag is perfection!

The colours of course are very symbolic. The blue was intended to represent the Conservative Party and the red to represent the Liberal Party.  The white was intended to stand for peace and purity; the blue star stands for the purity and honesty of the life of the country; the red star represents the authority and law in the country, and together the stars stand for the new republic.

Flag Day is celebrated every year on November 4, the day after Panama’s separation from Colombia.

Sights – Panama City

The Casco Antiguo (old town) of Panama City is full of Spanish architectural gems which are slowly being renovated.

The Casco Antiguo (old town) of Panama City is full of Spanish architectural gems which are slowly being renovated.

Once on the ground, there are many attractions which make Panama appealing to tourists. Panama City offers a wealth of history and is the oldest continuously occupied European settlement on the Pacific coast of the Americas.

Antique Spanish religious art in the old town.

Antique Spanish religious art in the old town.

The city was founded by the Spanish in 1519, who were led by local Indians on the short crossing from the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Ocean.

Panama flags for sale in Panama City old town.

Panama flags for sale in Panama City old town.

The Spanish then used the crossing to transport their treasures from their new world Pacific-coast colonies in Central and South America back to Spain via the Atlantic.

Another renovated Spanish colonial-era gem in the Casco Antiguo, Panama City.

Another renovated Spanish colonial-era gem in the Casco Antiguo, Panama City.

Today, the beautiful old town (Casco Antiguo) is my favourite place to spend time in the city. This UNESCO listed heritage site is slowly being renovated one building at a time, so with each return visit there’s always something new to explore.

Casco Antiguo, Panama City.

Casco Antiguo, Panama City.

The narrow cobbled streets (hopefully one day they’ll make them traffic-free) are lined with historic churches and lead into quiet, leafy squares. Everywhere there are bars, cafes, restaurants, shops and artist studios – a great place to meander, sight-see, relax and pick up a souvenir or two. In between the renovated properties are old abandoned properties (their stone facades propped up by support beams) which await renovation. It’s all very photogenic.

Many buildings in Panama City old town are awaiting renovation.

Many buildings in Panama City old town are awaiting renovation.

Outside of the old town is the new town – a modern, bustling city – complete with shopping malls, soaring high-rise office towers, traffic-clogged streets and fancy hotels.

The Panama flag and the modern skyline of Panama City, a thriving metropolis.

The Panama flag and the modern skyline of Panama City, a thriving metropolis.

The new town is made up of different districts, including the financial district. Construction cranes are a permanent feature on the Panama skyline as new buildings pop-up at a frenzied pace.

The F&F tower in the financial district of Panama City has won many architectural awards.

The F&F tower in the financial district of Panama City has won many architectural awards.

Sights – Outside Panama City

The Miraflores Locks (now the old locks) are located a short bus ride from Panama City.

The Miraflores Locks (now the old locks) are located a short bus ride from Panama City.

Outside of the city, there are a plethora of travel options. Top of most visitors’ bucket list is a trip to the Panama Canal locks. There are three sets of locks between the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. The closest to the capital (Miraflores locks) can be visited on an easy half-day trip.

The 'sliding' gates on the newly expanded Lake Gatun locks.

The ‘sliding’ gates on the newly expanded Lake Gatun locks.

Here you’ll get to watch ships pass through the old historic locks, while the newer, larger locks are out or sight in the distance and not open to the public.

The gigantic MSC Antigua entering Lake Gatun locks.

The gigantic MSC Antigua entering Lake Gatun locks.

However, if you visit the Gatun Lake locks (Caribbean coast) you will be able to see the mega-sized ships passing through the new locks (opened in 2016).

The MSC Antigua can carry almost 9,000 containers.

The MSC Antigua can carry almost 9,000 containers.

 

 

MSC Antigua, inside Lake Gatun lock, being lowered to the level of the Caribbean sea.

MSC Antigua, inside Lake Gatun lock, being lowered to the level of the Caribbean sea.

After the canal, you can spend your time relaxing on the Caribbean coast; sailing around the beautiful San Blas islands; exploring old Spanish coastal forts; diving/ snorkeling or heading to the other side of the country to spend time meandering along the Pacific coast.

Playa Blanca on the Caribbean island of Isla Grande.

Playa Blanca on the Caribbean island of Isla Grande.

Once you’ve had enough of sun, sand and beach you can venture into the central highlands, where you’ll find lush, green rainforests clinging to the sides of extinct volcanoes. It’s on the slopes of these volcanoes where you’ll find cafe fincas (coffee farms) growing the famous Geisha coffee bean (US$260/ kg), which Panama is famous for.

A Green violet-eared hummingbird at Finca Lerida.

A Green violet-eared hummingbird at Finca Lerida.

A great base for exploring the highlands is the town of Boquete, which you can read more about in my report – Bird Watching in Panama.

Eating Out

A Green violet-eared hummingbird at Finca Lerida.

Restaurant at the American Trade Hotel, Casco Antiguo – Panama City.

My favourite place to explore dining options is the old town of Panama City, where there’s always a new restaurant/ cafe opening somewhere.

On this trip I returned to my favourite old town cafeSuper Gourmet – which is especially good for breakfast and lunch. It’s owned by a friendly and informative American (Blaine) and it’s one place where you can try a cup of the famous Geisha cafe. I especially recommend a slice of their lemon pie while you sip on of their amazing Panamanian coffees.

My favourite bar in the old town is the newly opened The Strangers Club. The bar is part of a group of hipster cocktail bars, known as the ‘Employee Only’ bars which span the globe from New York City to Macau, Singapore, London and Miami. The cocktails, food and service are all amazing. If you are looking for a special night out then this is the venue.

Accommodation

Artwork in Panama City old town.

Artwork in Panama City old town.

As for accommodation, Panama City offers the traveler two very different options – you can stay in a beautifully renovated guest house/ hotel in the old town or in a modern, high-rise hotel in the new town.

Many of the new hotels are located along the bay front, where – thanks to a 5 km long footpath/ cycle way – you can join locals in the evening to exercise/ promenade.

My pick of the modern bay front hotels is the Hard Rock Hotel, which combines 5-star accommodation with a themed experience (like staying at the Rock ‘n’ Roll hall of fame) and offers an amazing breakfast.

Shopping

Despite their name, Panama hats are actually made in Ecuador.

Despite their name, Panama hats are actually made in Ecuador.

The old town offers wonderful shopping from upmarket boutiques, artist studio’s to cheap and cheery souvenir stalls. In the new town you’ll find the biggest and best shopping mall in Panama – the sprawling Albrook mall. This is popular with visitors from throughout the region who come here to shop in stores not available in their home countries (and at reasonably cheap prices).

An old advertisement for Panama Hats in Panama old town.

An old advertisement for Panama Hats in Panama old town.

Also worth checking out is the Multicentro mall (in front of the Hard Rock Hotel) and the larger Multiplaza Pacific mall (more upscale with lots of branded shops), which is a short taxi ride from the Hard Rock.

 


That’s the end of this report from Panama.

Safe Travels!

Darren


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Further Reading

Other reports from the region:

 

Panama Travel Report Panama Travel Report Panama Travel Report Panama Travel Report

Travel Quiz 04: Pacific Islands

Pacific Islands Quiz: Featuring fifteen moai, Ahu Tongariki is the largest ahu on Easter Island (Rapa Nui).

Pacific Islands Quiz

This is a Pacific Islands Quiz from taste2travel!

How well do you know the Pacific islands?

Test your knowledge with this Pacific Islands quiz from taste2travel.

How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?

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01. Which is a territory of New Zealand?

Correct! Wrong!

02. What is the capital of the Republic of the Marshall Islands?

Correct! Wrong!

03. Which country uses the Australian dollar as its official currency?

Correct! Wrong!

04. This island once served as a WWII base for the Japanese navy. Its lagoon is now home to a fleet of bombed warships, making it the best wreck diving location on the planet.

Correct! Wrong!

05. This atoll was used by the US military as a testing ground for its nuclear weapons program.

Correct! Wrong!

06. What is the capital of the Federated States of Micronesia?

Smiling girl on Pohnpei.
Correct! Wrong!

07. This is the flag of which nation?

Correct! Wrong!

08. Which country uses the US dollar as its official currency?

Correct! Wrong!

09. On which island would you be if you were visiting Nan Madol (one of the most significant ruin complexes in the Pacific)?

Correct! Wrong!

10. This is the flag of which country?

Correct! Wrong!

11. Which country was formerly known as the Gilbert Islands?

Correct! Wrong!

12. This island is famous for its nearly 900 monumental statues called Moai.

Pacific Islands Quiz: Featuring fifteen moai, Ahu Tongariki is the largest ahu on Easter Island (Rapa Nui).
Correct! Wrong!

13. The tiny atoll of Aitutaki is a part of which country?

Correct! Wrong!

14. Which one of the following is a French Territory?

Blue Hole of Voh, New Caledonia.
Correct! Wrong!

15. If you were shopping on Guam which currency would you be using?

Correct! Wrong!

16. This is the flag of which country?

Solomon Islands Flag
Correct! Wrong!

17. Which is the capital of Samoa?

The dazzling waters of Manase Beach on the east coast of Savai'i Island.
Correct! Wrong!

18. If you paid for a meal on Rarotonga using the official currency, which currency would you have used?

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19. This is the flag of which country?

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20. Which is the capital of Papua New Guinea?

Artwork on display at Lae airport.
Correct! Wrong!

Travel Quiz 04: Pacific Islands
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Travel Quizzes on taste2travel

Welcome to taste2travel!

My name is Darren McLean, I’m the owner of taste2travel and I love travel trivia and I certainly enjoy creating travel quizzes.

There are a total of 80 different travel quizzes on taste2travel, with each quiz containing 20 questions.

That’s a total of 1,600 trivia questions waiting to challenge you.

You’ll find a range of quizzes covering such topics as:

  • Currencies
  • Flags
  • Capital Cities
  • UNESCO World Heritage Sites
  • World Museums
  • Map Quizzes
  • Continent-specific Quizzes
  • World Islands
  • Landlocked Countries and much more!

Don’t forget to share these quizzes with your family, friends and community using the social media buttons at the top of the quiz.

Apart from excellent travel quizzes, you’ll also find other outstanding content on taste2travel – such as travel guides, photo galleries and feature articles which provide tips on booking cheap flights and much more.

Other Quizzes

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Other travel-related quizzes are also available on BuzzFeed.

Content Links

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Travel Quiz 03: South America

South America Quiz: A highlight of the Los Glaciares National Park in Patagonia, Cerro Torre (3,128 m) and Monte Fitz Roy (3,359 m) lie on the border between Argentina and Chile.

South America Quiz

This is a South America Quiz from taste2travel!

How well do you know South America?

Test your knowledge with this South America quiz from taste2travel.

How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?

Good luck!


01. How many countries/ territories share a land border with Brazil?

Correct! Wrong!

02. What is the capital of Suriname?

Correct! Wrong!

03. In which country would you be if you were visiting Kaieteur falls - the world's tallest single drop waterfall.

A rainbow over Kaieteur Falls, Guyana.
Correct! Wrong!

04. Where is the Kourou space centre located?

Correct! Wrong!

05. In which country is the Panama hat made?

Despite their name, Panama hats are actually made in Ecuador.
Correct! Wrong!

06. Easter Island is a part of which country?

Easter Island is a part of which country?
Correct! Wrong!

07. In which country would you be if you were flying over the pre-Colombian Nazca lines?

The Nazca Lines are a collection of giant geoglyphs, located in the desert region of Southern Peru.
Correct! Wrong!

08. The underground Salt Cathedral of Zipaquira (the world's largest) is located in which country?

Zipaquirá is famous for its huge 'Salt Cathedral', an underground church built inside an abandoned salt mine.
Correct! Wrong!

09. This is the flag of which country?

Correct! Wrong!

10. Which country was formerly a Dutch colony?

Correct! Wrong!

11. The Galapagos Islands are a part of which country?

A male Galapagos land iguana on South Plaza Island.
Correct! Wrong!

12. What is the approximate length of Chile in kilometres?

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13. This is the flag of which country?

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14. At 10,582 square kilometers (4,086 sq mi), the Salar de Uyuni is the world's largest salt flat. In which country is it located?

Landlocked Countries: A view, from Isla Incahuasi, of the totally surreal Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia, the world's largest salt plain at 10,582 square km (3,900 square mi).
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15. Which country uses the US dollar as its official currency?

Correct! Wrong!

16. In which capital would you be if you were spending Euro's (the official currency)?

Correct! Wrong!

17. Which is the longest river in South America?

Correct! Wrong!

18. Situated at 3,400 metres (11,152 feet), the Andean city of Cusco is located in which country?

Correct! Wrong!

19. Cerro Fitz Roy is the main star of the Fitz Roy National Park in Patagonia. The peak straddles the border of which two countries?

South America Quiz: A highlight of the Los Glaciares National Park in Patagonia, Cerro Torre (3,128 m) and Monte Fitz Roy (3,359 m) lie on the border between Argentina and Chile.
Correct! Wrong!

20. This is the flag of which country?

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Travel Quiz 03: South America
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Share your Results:


Travel Quizzes on taste2travel

Welcome to taste2travel!

My name is Darren McLean, I’m the owner of taste2travel and I love travel trivia and I certainly enjoy creating travel quizzes.

There are a total of 80 different travel quizzes on taste2travel, with each quiz containing 20 questions.

That’s a total of 1,600 trivia questions waiting to challenge you.

You’ll find a range of quizzes covering such topics as:

  • Currencies
  • Flags
  • Capital Cities
  • UNESCO World Heritage Sites
  • World Museums
  • Map Quizzes
  • Continent-specific Quizzes
  • World Islands
  • Landlocked Countries and much more!

Don’t forget to share these quizzes with your family, friends and community using the social media buttons at the top of the quiz.

Apart from excellent travel quizzes, you’ll also find other outstanding content on taste2travel – such as travel guides, photo galleries and feature articles which provide tips on booking cheap flights and much more.

Other Quizzes

Why not further test your knowledge with another taste2travel quiz?

Other travel-related quizzes are also available on BuzzFeed.

Content Links

Click on the links to access the following:

Guam Travel Guide

Street Art Guam.

Guam Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Guam Travel Guide!

Date Visited: February 2017

Introduction

If you’ve spent time on neighouring islands in Micronesia, you will have become use to a sleepy, laid-back, slow-paced way of life. Guam however is bright lights, big city buzz – a mini Hawaii – and will snap you out of any relaxed, comatose state you may have gotten use to.

Here you will find busy, congested highways, lined with shopping malls (anchored by stores such as Macy’s) and all the usual US chain restaurants. Expensive, high-rise resorts, which cater to a throng of Japanese and Korean tourists, line the shore of emerald-coloured Tumon bay (Guam’s version of Waikiki).

View from Two Lovers Point.

View from Two Lovers Point.

Added into this mix are approximately 7,000 US military personnel (and their families) who are stationed at either Anderson Air Force base in the north or Naval Base Guam on the east coast.

While on Guam it is impossible to escape the US military presence – in any restaurant you will most likely be dining alongside soldiers and their families, bars are full of soldiers and to get to these places you travel along roads such as South Marine Corps Drive, Army Drive etc.

Souvenir of Guam.

Souvenir of Guam.

Guam (population: 160,000) is the biggest and busiest island in Micronesia. The island is an unincorporated and organised territory of the United States (i.e. Guam is controlled by the US government but is not fully part of the United States – as such the US Constitution applies only partially). The official currency is the US dollar.

Guam is a fun place to spend a week, with many different attractions on land and in the pristine, tropical waters which surround the island. Being a US territory – services and infrastructure are well developed, which makes for easy travelling.

Location

Located in the western Pacific (north of the equator, three-quarters of the way from Hawaii to the Philippines), Guam is the southernmost island in the Mariana island chain.

Located off the east coast of the island is the Mariana Trench, which reaches it’s deepest point (10,911 metres/ 35,797 feet) at Challenger Deep, the deepest point on the planet.

In 2012, famous Canadian film maker, James Cameron, was the first human to travel 11 km (6.8 miles) down into the depths of Challenger Deep on a solo voyage in a specially built submarine.

History

Magellan's obelisk at Umatac bay.

Magellan’s obelisk at Umatac bay.

Guam was settled around 2,000 BC by native Chamorros who are believed to have come from Southeast Asia and today comprise 38% of the total population.

The first European contact was in 1521 when Ferdinand Magellan landed on the island – it is here where Magellan encountered the first “indios” since leaving South America.

Despite Magellan’s initial visit, the island was not colonised by Spain until the 17th century who then used it as a stopover point for their Spanish Manila Galleons, which sailed between Mexico and the Philippines.

During the Spanish period, many Filipinos settled on Guam and today comprise 27% of the population.

In 1898 the Spanish surrendered Guam to the United States as part of the settlement of the Spanish-American War. However, the island was then captured during WWII by Japan, just hours after the attack on Pearl Harbour.

The Japanese occupied Guam for the next two-and-a-half years, before U.S. troops were able to recapture the island in 1944. The Americans have been in control every since.

Today, Guam is supported by its tourism industry, with its second largest source of income coming from the United States Armed Forces.

Flag

The flag of Guam.

The flag of Guam.

The flag of Guam is dark blue with a red border on all sides. At the centre, the coat of arms of Guam is an almond-shaped emblem, which depicts a proa (traditional sailing boat) sailing in Agana Bay and GUAM coloured in red letters.

The flag of Guam flying in the capital, Hagåtña.

The flag of Guam flying in the capital, Hagåtña.

Sightseeing

I too was a 'fan' of Guam beer!

I too was a ‘fan’ of Guam beer!

For sightseeing, Guam can be split into three regions:

Northern Region

A large chunk of the northern region is off limits to visitors as its home of the Andersen Air Force Base (AFB), with the base stretching along the entire north coast. One place worth visiting is Ritidian beach on the the north-east coast.

The road to the beach is a pot-holed, rough, gravel road, which follows the perimeter fence of the AFB. While I was bouncing along this road I could look over into the base where I could see a perfectly paved road with absolutely no traffic.

While back-roads on the island can be rough, it seems roads on the bases are in perfect working order.

Ritidian beach is home to the Guam National Wildlife Refuge Unit which provides two miles of coastal walking trails. The refuge is open daily until 4pm. After this time, a locked gate on the main road prohibits any access to the entire area, so best to come during refuge opening hours.

Coco Palm Garden Beach

Coco Palm Garden Beach

Another, much rougher, gravel road (left turn before the refuge gate) follows Ritidian beach.

I drove my (rental) car along this road but it really is only suited to 4WD. Most of the beachfront property is private with fences, gates and ‘no trespassing‘ signs lining the way.

There is nowhere along this road which provides public access to the beach. If you persevere, you’ll eventually reach Coco Palm Garden Beach. This is one over-priced tourist trap. For around $90 each, Japanese and Korean tourists are bussed in from their Tumon Bay resorts, provided a welcome drink, BBQ lunch, access to the beach (rocky/ coral reef), towel and fish food (?).

The whole place closes down early in the afternoon to ensure all tourists are back at their resorts in time for their dinner shows. I arrived at 4pm and was allowed 2 minutes of free access to take one photo of the beach. The staff were not at all welcoming and certainly not happy that I was getting free access.

On West Marine Corps drive in Dededo is the Micronesia Mall – the largest mall on the island.

Okay – if you have arrived on Guam from the real world then this mall will not seem to be anything special, but for those who have spent an inordinate amount of time on any of the sleepy, less-developed neighbouring islands – this is big deal.

Love hearts at Two Lovers Point

Signed love hearts at Two Lovers Point

Just north of Tumon Bay is Two Lovers Point, a dramatic (400 ft) coastal cliff from which it is said two lovers jumped to their death as the father of the girl wanted her to marry a Spanish captain which she refused in the most dramatic way possible.

The views over the Philippine Sea and nearby Tumon Bay are spectacular, as are all the colourful love-heart shaped dedications written by visiting romantic tourists.

Tumon Bay from Two Lovers Point.

View south to Tumon Bay from Two Lovers Point.

Central Region

This is where all the action is and where you will spend most of your time. The central region is home to the tourist hub of Tumon Bay and to the island’s capital – Hagåtña.

Tumon Bay

View of Tumon Bay

View of Tumon Bay

With its stretch of high-rise resorts wrapping around the bay, Tumon is all about rest, relaxation, play and shopping. In between the resorts are large duty free shops catering to the needs of free-spending Japanese and Korean tourists.

It’s here you’ll find US chain restaurants, Sushi & Korean BBQ restaurants, bars & clubs, spas, dinner theatres, speciality shops an Underwater World and everything else package tourists might need to enhance their tropical escape experience.

Tumon Bay Beach

Tumon Bay Beach

During the day, the bay offers fantastic snorkeling – once you get well offshore (unfortunately too many tourists standing on the flat coral heads has killed all the coral close to shore).

Although I wasn’t staying there, I was able to hire snorkel gear from the aquatic sports shop at the Hilton hotel and snorkel directly in front of the hotel (best snorkeling is out to sea from the cove).

Hagåtña

The very modern, Guam Museum, is located in the heart of Hagåtña, the capital of Guam.

The very modern, Guam Museum, is located in the heart of Hagåtña, the capital of Guam.

Guam’s capital is a small, relaxed, town which features a historic walking path, connecting all sights of interest.  A good place to start is the impressive Guam Museum – the museum tells the history of the island. Directly outside the museum is a sculpture commemorating the visit of Pope John Paul II to the island in 1981.

Across the road from the museum is the historic Plaza de Espana, which was the location of the Governor’s Palace during the island’s period of Spanish occupation.

The palace housed the office and residence of the Spanish governor but was largely destroyed during the liberation of Guam in 1944. Today a few structures remain, including the the Chocolate House, the “Azotea” and the Almacen gate. 

Statue of Pope John Paul II and Dulce Nombre de Maria Cathedral Basilica in Hagåtña

Statue of Pope John Paul II and Dulce Nombre de Maria Cathedral Basilica in Hagåtña

Next to Plaza de Espana, is the contemporary Dulce Nombre de Maria Cathedral-Basilica while behind the Plaza is the Senator Angel Leon Guerrero Santos Memorial Park.

The park contains 8 ancient lattes. Nothing to do with coffee – latte’s were used in the Mariana islands as house supports, with a cap at the top to discourage rats and other vermin climbing up into the house.  

Weekly BBQ at the Chamorro village.

Weekly BBQ at the Chamorro village.

Towards the harbour, the Chamorro village is a great place for souvenir shopping and (only on Wednesday evenings) the best BBQ in town. The best time to visit is early in the evening with lots of pop-up shops and BBQ vendors.

The earlier you order food the better as the lines get progressively longer as the night goes on, with everyone from locals, tourists and military families turning out.

Southern Region

The southern part of the island features small, quiet coastal hamlets built around picturesque bays. I covered this part of the island on a leisurely day trip following a circuitous route from Hagåtña by first crossing the island on highway 4 to the east coast (Pago Bay) then travelling clockwise around the bottom of the island back to Hagåtña.

The east coast lies on the windward side of the island hence the beaches are much more dramatic and exposed than those on the west coast.

Talofofo Falls.

Talofofo Falls.

In Talofofo bay, Talofofo falls are worth the short detour off the coastal road. The falls consist of a series of scenic cascades on the Talofofo River and are reached by way of a very lazy cable car which transports you down into the gorge where the falls are located.

A series of paths and bridges leads you around the falls back to the cable car.

Entrance to Yokoi's cave.

Entrance to Yokoi’s cave.

Also at the falls is “Yokoi’s Cave“, a replica of the original cave, which was located at the same sight but previously destroyed by a typhoon.

This fascinating survival story involves a Japanese soldier who survived the US liberation of the island in 1944 by hiding in a small cave in the jungle. Yokoi survived for the next 27 years, sourcing water from the river and food from the jungle until he was discovered in 1972 by two local hunters.

He believed Japan was still at war and didn’t want to surrender. He eventually returned to Japan to a hero’s welcome (and to receive $300 in back pay).

Fort Nuestra Senora de la Soledad.

Fort Nuestra Senora de la Soledad.

As you travel around the southern tip of the island onto the west coast, highway 4 becomes highway 2 as you enter Umatac bay.

This picturesque bay was where Magellan landed in 1521. At the centre of the bay is an obelisk monument commemorating his landing, bearing the inscription, “Magellan landed here.”

It was also here in 1565 that Miguel Lopez de Legazpi dropped anchor and stayed for thirteen days, formally claiming Guam for Spain.

On either side of the bay are two forts (Fort Nuestra Senora de la Soledad and Fort Santo Angelo), which were built during the Spanish colonial period to protect the bay from pirates and other European explorers.

Continuing north along the west coast you’ll soon reach Naval Base Guam. Next to the entrance of the base is the T. Stell Newman Visitor Centre, part of the War in the Pacific National Historical Park.

The friendly, informative staff can provide you with a map of the park and information on what to see. Most of the points of interest (former battlefields, trenches and historic structures) lie along the coast north of the Naval base. The park tells the story of war in the Pacific and details the US liberation of Guam in 1944, which resulted in the defeat of the Japanese.

 

Accommodation

Most visitors to Guam stay in expensive resorts - such as the Guam Hilton - on beautiful Tumon Bay, the Waikiki of Guam.

Most visitors to Guam stay in expensive resorts – such as the Guam Hilton – on beautiful Tumon Bay, the Waikiki of Guam.

Most hotels on the island are located along the long curving shore of beautiful Tumon bay, a short drive from the airport.

These hotels are large scale, high-rise resorts which cater to Japanese, Korean and (increasingly) Chinese tourists who jet in for a few days of rest and relaxation.

These tourists arrive on fully escorted tours with lots of money to spend in a short time, hence hotels around the bay are never cheap. If you wish to check these options, you will find them on sites such as booking.com

I used Airbnb to find a more reasonably priced apartment, which was perfect for my stay

Eating Out

Thanks to it being a US territory (and home-away-from-home for thousands of military personnel and their families), Guam offers more dining options than any other island in Micronesia.

All the usual US chain restaurants are represented on the island. You can start your day with breakfast at Denny’s, lunch at Apple-Bee’s and finish with dinner at the Texas Steakhouse. Its a glutton’s paradise!

Added into the mix are numerous Japanese and Korean restaurants in Tumon Bay, which cater to the throngs of Japanese and Korean tourists.

Lunch at McKraut's German restaurant in Inarajan.

Lunch at McKraut’s German restaurant in Inarajan.

If you’re in the mood for fine German cuisine, you cannot go past the legendary McKraut’s German restaurant, which is located in the village of Inarajan on the remote south-east coast.

The drive from Tumon Bay is about an hour but if you are exploring the south east coast then this is the perfect place to stop for lunch or dinner.

One ‘must do’ culinary experience on the island is the weekly BBQ at the Chamorro village in Hagåtña (see that section for more details).

McKraut's German restaurant

Bar at McKraut’s German restaurant

For a taste of local Chomoro cuisine, the Meskla Chamoro Bistro in Hagåtña is an excellent choice. The restaurant was founded by a local celebrity chief (Peter Duenas) who’s aim has been to highlight Chomoro cuisine. This is a popular place so reservations are recommended.

Visa Requirements

Entry requirements for Guam are the same as the USA . Check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

The view from my flight on United Airlines "Island Hopper" (UA154) on final approach to Guam.

The view from my flight on United Airlines “Island Hopper” (UA154) on final approach to Guam.

By Air

Flights to Guam arrive at Antonio B. Won Pat International Airport (named after the first delegate from Guam to the United States House of Representatives). The airport is built on a high ridge above Tumon Bay and is within a three hour flight of major Asian cities in Japan, Korea, China, Taiwan and the Philippines.

The airport serves as a regional hub for United Airlines, however most flights are operated by Korean and Japanese carriers who carry hoards of holiday-makers to the island each day.

Guam airport is the terminus for the epic United Airlines Island Hopper (UA154) – for more on this, please refer to my Central Pacific Island Hopping blog.

The following airlines provide connections to/from Guam:

  • Air Busan – flight to Busan
  • Cebu Pacific – flight to Manila
  • China Airlines – flight to Taipei–Taoyuan
  • Delta Air Lines – flight to Tokyo–Narita
  • EVA Air – flight to Taipei – Taoyuan
  • HK Express – flight to Hong Kong
  • Japan Airlines – flight to Tokyo–Narita
  • Jeju Air – flights to Busan, Seoul–Incheon
  • Jin Air – flights to Busan, Seoul–Incheon
  • Korean Air – flights to Osaka–Kansai, Seoul–Incheon
  • Philippine Airlines – flight to Manila
  • Star Marianas Airflights to Rota, Saipan
  • T’way Airlines – flights to Daegu, Osaka–Kansai, Seoul–Incheon
  • United Airlines – flights to Chuuk, Fukuoka, Hong Kong, Honolulu, Koror, Kosrae, Kwajalein, Majuro, Manila, Nagoya–Centrair, Osaka–Kansai, Pohnpei, Sapporo–Chitose, Sendai, Shanghai–Pudong, Tokyo–Narita, Yap
  • United Express – flights to Rota, Saipan

Getting Around

The license plate on my rental car.

The license plate on my rental car.

Bus

The Guam Regional Transit Authority operates inexpensive public buses which cover most places on the island. Services are not very frequent and only operate Monday – Saturday (no service Sunday or public holidays). If you wish to maximise your time on the island then car rental is the best option.

Taxi

Taxis are available in the main tourist areas with a fare from the airport to Tumon Bay costing about $6.

Rental Car

The best way to explore Guam is with a rental car.

The best way to explore Guam is with a rental car.

While public buses provide island-wide service, many attractions are off the beaten track, hence the best way to explore Guam is with a rental car.

Daily charges on Guam are much more reasonable than those on neighbouring islands, with all the main rental companies operating from the airport. I hired a car through Alamo at a very competitive rate. Signage on the island is poor (typical for the region) so either a good map or navigation device is recommended.

 


That’s the end of my Guam Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren


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Further Reading

Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide Guam Travel Guide 

Chuuk Travel Guide

A shop in Weno town selling traditional Chuukese dresses.

Chuuk Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Chuuk Travel Guide!

Date Visited: February 2017

Introduction

As my torchlight made a sweep of the dark, watery space, I could see five Japanese war planes – Zero bombers – parked side-by-side, disassembled to facilitate transportation. I was 26 metres below the Chuuk lagoon and had just descended into one of the holds of the wrecked Fujikawa Maru. Built in 1938 by the Mitsubishi Company as a passenger and cargo carrier, the Japanese Navy took possession of the Fujikawa in the early days of WWII and converted her into an aircraft ferry.

Fujikawa Maru

Fujikawa Maru

Just prior to “Operation Hailstone”, the Fujikawa Maru had arrived in Chuuk where she off-loaded thirty bombers at a Japanese airfield. She would never leave Chuuk and on the day of Operation Hailstone she was still carrying the Zero bombers in her hold – the bombers that I was now diving around.

Chuuk Travel Guide: A shop in downtown Weno, the capital of Chuuk.

A shop in downtown Weno, the capital of Chuuk.

Welcome to Chuuk, one of the states of the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM) and the premier wreck diving capital of the world. In other places you can dive a single wreck, on Chuuk you can dive a whole fleet.

Chuuk Travel Guide: Storm clouds over Chuuk Lagoon.

Storm clouds over Chuuk Lagoon.

While Chuuk is another beautiful, remote, Pacific atoll, the main reason travellers come here is to dive the plethora of wrecks which lay at the bottom of the lagoon. Chuuk offers world-class wreck diving and with over 60 wrecks, from supply vessels (Maru) to planes and a submarine, there is plenty to keep divers busy.

United Airlines' UA154 on approach to Chuuk International Airport.

Truk or Chuuk? What’s in a name?  To the Chuukese, their home has always been ‘Chuuk‘. To the Germans (who once colonised the island), Chuuk was difficult to pronounce – to them it sounded like ‘Truuk‘. Once the American GI’s arrived, they pronounced it ‘Truk‘ and that name stuck during the many years that Truk was part of the (US-administered) Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands (TTPI). Following independence, the island reverted back to it’s original name of ‘Chuuk‘.

Stormy skies over Chuuk lagoon.

Stormy skies over Chuuk lagoon.

Location

Chuuk is located north of the equator, between Hawaii and the Philippines. It’s one of the four states of FSM, with the state of Yap to the west and Pohnpei and Kosrae to the east.

Chuuk, Federated States of Micronesia

At a circumference of 225 kilometres (140 mi), the lagoon is the world’s largest – it’s protective barrier reef (the remnants of an ancient volcano) enclose a cluster of small islands, which were once the mountain peaks on the volcano. All services (and infrastructure) are to be found on the administrative island of Weno, with everything being connected by one (not too long), main road.

Weno is the atoll’s capital and, with a population of 12,000 people, is the largest city in the FSM. The outer islands are either uninhabited or contain villagers living a subsistence lifestyle.

History

A Japanese WWII memorial in downtown Weno, Chuuk.

A Japanese WWII memorial in downtown Weno, Chuuk.

The early history of Chuuk is unknown but it is clear from archaeological digs that people have inhabited the area since the 1st or 2nd century BC. The first recorded sighting of the islands were made by the Spanish in 1528.

The Spanish would later claim the islands (by simply raising a flag) but never established any permanent settlement. In 1899, the Spanish sold the islands to the German empire, but following Germany’s defeat in WWI, the Japanese where given control of the islands under a mandate from the League of Nations.

During WWII, the Japanese used Chuuk as their main Naval base in the South Pacific. From here, they launched operations against Allied forces in the region. Japanese military engineers converted Chuuk into a formidable fortress, with roads, trenches, bunkers, caves, airstrips, seaplane bases, a torpedo boat station, submarine repair shops, a communications centre and a radar station. All of this came to a spectacular, fiery end on February 17, 1944 during Operation Hailstone (see following section).

Following WWII, Chuuk was made one of six districts of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands (TTPI), which were administered by the United States under a UN charter. Independence was finally granted to the Federated States of Micronesia (Kosrae, Pohnpei, Chuuk & Yap) in 1990.

More recently, a ‘Chuuk Independence’ movement has gained popularity which, if successful, could see the break up of the FSM.

Operation Hailstone 

Operation Hailstone

Operation Hailstone. Source: Wikipedia

If it wasn’t for Operation Hailstone, Chuuk would be just another quiet, remote backwater. On February 17, 1944, the island’s place in history would be ensured forever when American forces commenced a three day bombing campaign, the aim of which was to completely destroy the naval base and all ships in the lagoon.

The relentless aerial bombardment resulted in the sinking of more than 60 warships, planes and a submarine. A 10 minute propaganda film – Yanks Smash Truk (filmed by an embedded cameraman aboard one of the bombers), provides you with a sense of the ferocity of the bombardment.

Diving

A map showing the many Japanese wrecks in Chuuk Lagoon.

A map showing the many Japanese wrecks in Chuuk Lagoon.

As a result of Operation Hailstone, Chuuk lagoon is the world’s largest ship graveyard, with the wrecked Japanese fleet now known as the ‘Ghost Fleet of Truk Lagoon‘. The fleet was first brought to the world’s attention in 1969 when Jacques Cousteau and the Calypso team explored the lagoon and it’s wrecks, producing the TV documentary “Lagoon of Lost Ships“. The documentary put Chuuk on the world diving map and changed the fortunes of the island.

A local diver, Kimiuo Aisek, who as a 17-year-old witnessed Operation Hailstone, opened the islands first dive shop in 1973 at the Blue Lagoon Resort. Today the dive shop is one of two on Weno offering dive trips. A museum at the resort displays artefacts salvaged from some of the wrecks.

Today the island is a magnet for divers with the majority of wrecks being within recreational diving limits (30-40 metres / 100-130 feet) and close to shore. For those who prefer zero commuting to their dive sites, a few live-aboard options are available, these include the SS Thorfin, Odyssey and the Truk Master.

Chuuk Travel Guide: The boat jetty at Truk Stop hotel.

The boat jetty at Truk Stop hotel.

An excellent map of the wreck’s is printed by Franko Map’s (see above image) and is available for purchase on Amazon. The Truk Lagoon Dive Centre offer an online, interactive map, which provides detailed information on various wrecks. I did four dives with Truk Lagoon Dive Centre, these were:

Heian Maru

The Heian Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

The Heian Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

The largest wreck (11,600 tons) I dived was the giant Heian Maru – this was featured by Jacques Cousteau in his original documentary. Located between 12 metres and 33 metres, the Heian carried supplies for Japanese submarines. We explored inside the forward hold’s, where we saw long lance torpedoes and then into the companionways, where we saw periscopes and other equipment.

Yamagiri Maru

Chuuk Travel Guide: The Yamagiri Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

The Yamagiri Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

On the Yamagiri Maru (located at a depth of 15 metres – 33 metres) we explored a hold which contained a supply of huge 18.1″ armour piercing shells, with each shell weighing 1,400 kg. Also on-board was a steamroller and other construction equipment.

Fujikawa Maru

The Fujikawa Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

The Fujikawa Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

Located at a depth of between 9 metres and 34 metres, the Fujikawa Maru is considered the best dive site in Chuuk – this is a ‘must dive’. The main smoke stack is reached at just 6 metres, with her deck at 18 metres. On the bow of the deck is an impressive (coral encrusted), 6-inch (152 mm) bow gun.

In one of the forward hold’s are four disassembled Mitsubishi fighter aircraft along with machine guns, shells and other ammunition. Other structures we explored included the galley, engine room, staterooms, bathrooms and the pilothouse. The entire ship is covered in an abundance of soft corals, which attracts a wealth of marine life. A magical diving experience.

Shinkoku Maru

The Shinkoku Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

The Shinkoku Maru wreck which lies at the bottom of Chuuk lagoon.

The Skinkoku Maru is one of the most popular dives in Chuuk. The ship served as a naval tanker and offers a myriad number of rooms (all largely intact) for the diver to explore. The ship was sunk upright with a large bomb hole visible in her port side.

Th ship lies between 12 metres – 38 metres, with her main deck at 18 metres. During the dive we explored the crew quarters, engine room, sick bay, wheelhouse, the galley (complete with porcelain dishes, stove, utensils and other kitchenware) and the deck. The deck is covered in an amazing array of soft corals which attracts a huge amount of fish.

Island Sights

Chuuk Travel Guide: A shop in Weno, the capital of Chuuk.

A shop in Weno, the capital of Chuuk.

The terrestrial attractions on Chuuk are limited, which isn’t a problem since most visitors are here for the underwater attractions. A walk along the main street will hold your interest for about 1 hour, during which time you can check out the shops, purchase super cheap local coconut oil (US$2 for a one litre PET bottle) or buy some fresh fruit. All Chuukese ladies wear the traditional Chuukese dress, which are sold in shops along the main street.

A neighbourhood on Weno island flooded after a recent storm.

A neighbourhood on Weno island flooded after a recent storm.

Outside of town there are some walking trails which will take you up onto the surrounding hilltops. The trails are rough and poorly marked so a local guide is recommended. You can also visit neighbouring atolls for the day, however there are no services or facilities available on these.

A bottle of locally made coconut oil costs US$2 in Weno.

A bottle of locally made coconut oil costs US$2 in Weno.

Accommodation

United Airlines' UA154 on the runway at Chuuk International Airport with my hotel, Hotel Level 5, visible in the background.

United Airlines’ UA154 on the runway at Chuuk International Airport with my hotel, Hotel Level 5, visible in the background.

There are just a few hotels on Weno, but these are more than enough to cater to the small trickle of travellers who make it here.

Directly opposite the airport is the Level 5 Hotel. I stayed here and I’m glad I did. I visited every hotel on the island and, in my opinion, this is the best. The spacious, comfortable rooms are newly renovated and the ground floor features the best café/ restaurant on the island.

The hotel also features the only elevator on Chuuk but interestingly the locals avoid it – they are either afraid of it or just not use to using one. When it comes time to leave, the airport is across the road. Despite its close proximity to the airport, the hotel offers a shuttle service and will be waiting to pick you up when you arrive – the shortest shuttle connection I’ve ever had.

Also within walking distance of the airport is the High Tide Hotel. This family-run hotel offers older style rooms and a good restaurant, which serves reasonably priced, generous portions of local seafood.

Chuuk Travel Guide: The Truk Stop Hotel at Chuuk, one of the few hotels on Chuuk.

The Truk Stop Hotel at Chuuk, one of the few hotels on Chuuk.

For divers who prefer to stay somewhere with an onsite dive shop, there are two options:

  1. The closest to downtown is Truk Stop Hotel. This is a family run hotel, whose American owner has been a key proponent of the local tourism (i.e. diving) industry for many years. The 23 hotel rooms are old and dated but a new wing was under construction during my visit (Feb 2017). Besides being home to just one of two dive shops on the island, the hotel offers a restaurant and two bars. If you wish to socialise, this is the only real option on the island.
  2.  The other option, Blue Lagoon Resort, is the most upmarket property on the island and the most expensive, although rooms here are in need of renovation. The resort dive shop was the first established on the island by local diving pioneer Kimiuo Aisek. The resort is located 8 km south of the airport away from the downtown area. The shared ‘town’ taxis (which regularly shuttle along the main road) do not travel this far south (the road is in terrible condition) so you will need to hire a taxi to reach the resort.

Eating Out

Options are limited, with the few hotels providing the only restaurants. My favourite place (and the ‘go to’ place for the best coffee) is the restaurant/ café at the Level 5 Hotel. This is a sister operation of a café in Honolulu and features the only espresso machine on the island. The café is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and is a popular spot for those waiting for the (often delayed) United Airlines Island Hopper.

The restaurant at Truk Stop Hotel is very popular, with a good selection of food and drinks and always a good ambience. There’s a restaurant at the Blue Lagoon Resort (the only dining option at this end of the island) and at High Tide Hotel.

Visa Requirements

Chuuk Passport Stamps.

Chuuk Passport Stamps.

Some nationalities require visas for the Federated States of Micronesia – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

United Airlines' UA154 departing from Chuuk.

United Airlines’ UA154 departing from Chuuk.

By Air

Chuuk Travel Guide: The terminal building at Chuuk International airport.

The terminal building at Chuuk International airport.

Flights to Chuuk arrive at Chuuk International Airport on the island of Weno. This sleepy airport is a short walk from the downtown area and several hotels. For more details on UA154 and Chuuk Airport, refer to my Central Pacific Island Hopping blog.

Chuuk Travel Guide: United Airlines' UA154 departing from Chuuk.

United Airlines’ UA154 departing from Chuuk.

The following airlines provide connections to/from Chuuk:

  • Air Niugini – flights to Pohnpei and Port Moresby (with connections onto Australia, Singapore and Manila).
  • United Airlines – flights to Guam, Honolulu, Kosrae, Kwajalein, Majuro, Pohnpei
Asia Pacific Air Airlines, Chuuk Airport.

All freight in Micronesia arrives courtesy of two companies – Matson Shipping Line or Asia Pacific Airlines (seen here at Chuuk Airport).

Getting Around

Bus

There are no public buses on Weno.

Taxi

Taxi’s on Weno cost between $1 to $2 depending on distance travelled. The distance from the airport to the Blue Lagoon resort (one end of the island to the other) is about 5 miles.

Car

The Level 5 Hotel offers expensive (US$70 per day) car rental but there’s no need to hire a car on an island with one short road, which is covered by frequent (and cheap) shared taxis.

Chuuk promotes itself as a Diver's Haven.

Chuuk promotes itself as a Diver’s Haven.

 


That’s the end of my Chuuk Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren


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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Pacific region:

Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide  Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide Chuuk (Truk) Travel Guide

Pohnpei Travel Guide

Smiling girl on Pohnpei.

Pohnpei Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Pohnpei Travel Guide!

Date Visited: February 2017

Introduction

After an hour of climbing in the sweltering, humid, heat – under the direct glare of the tropical sun – I’d finally made it to the summit of Sokehs ridge – a point marked by a very unceremonious communications tower.

View of the fringing reef that protects Pohnpei from Sokehs Ridge.

View of the fringing reef that protects Pohnpei from Sokehs Ridge.

From here I had a panoramic view of the northern tip of Pohnpei. In the valley below, the capital – Kolonia – was slowly being enveloped by a fierce tropical storm. Like a deer staring into the headlights, I stood and watched as the storm clouds slowly rolled across the landscape towards me.

A storm moving over Kolonia, the capital of Pohnpei, as seen from Sokehs ridge.

A storm moving over Kolonia, the capital of Pohnpei, as seen from Sokehs ridge.

Then the inevitable happened – first one drop, then another, then the heaven’s opened up – but after the long, hot climb, all that cool water was so refreshing. I had found a sheltered place for my camera bag, but as for me – I stood out in the open with my arms and mouth open, getting soaked and slurping the tropical rainwater.

After the storm cleared, I had a magnificent view of Sokehs rock, a 100m high exposed basalt volcanic plug that shoots up out of the lush green landscape and is the most striking feature of Pohnpei’s topography. The island gets it’s name from this feature – “upon (pohn) a stone altar (pei)”.

Just a few days earlier I had had a bird’s eye view of the rock from my seat (32D) on board United Airlines’ Island Hopper (UA154) as we passed by the rock on our final approach to Pohnpei airport.

Nature abounds on Pohnpei - the 'garden of Micronesia'.

Nature abounds on Pohnpei – the ‘garden of Micronesia’.

Pohnpei (formerly ‘Ponape’) is one of the four states, which comprise the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM) and bills itself as ‘the Garden of Micronesia‘. You don’t need to spend much time on the island to realise this is not some over-hyped slogan created by local tourism officials.

Due to it being one of the wettest places on earth (annual recorded rainfall exceeding 76-cm/ 300-in), Pohnpei is full of lush, tropical, vegetation, a place where colourful, flowering plants frame every view. Visiting Pohnpei is like holidaying on an over-sized botanical garden – it’s that beautiful.

These handmade decorations are made by a woman's coop in Kolonia.

These handmade decorations are made by a woman’s coop in Kolonia.

The island is surrounded by a fringing reef, which provides protection and so much more for the island. Surfing is popular on the reef and more and more intrepid surfers are finding their way to this remote island to ride the famed waves of Palikir pass. The reef also offers diving, snorkeling and fishing opportunities.

The view of the fringing reef which surrounds Pohnpei from my seat on United Airlines' Island Hopper.

The view of the fringing reef which surrounds Pohnpei from my seat on United Airlines’ Island Hopper.

Almost all services on Pohnpei are located in the capital of Kolonia so this is the place to base yourself during your visit. The town has a population of 6,000 (almost the entire population of neighbouring Kosrae) so if you are coming from quiet Kosrae you will notice the hustle and bustle. There’s one road which circumnavigates the island and provides access to all the sights of interest.

Traditional embroidered ‘Pohnpei’ dresses. These are worn by almost every girl on the island.

The island has many natural attractions and many good restaurants and bars in Kolonia – enough to keep you busy for a few days.

Very cute! Flower Girl on Pohnpei.

Very cute! Flower Girl on Pohnpei.

Location

Federated States of Micronesia

Pohnpei is located in the middle of nowhere, midway between Hawaii and The Philippines. It’s part of the Federated States of Micronesia, being located at the eastern end of the Caroline Islands group.

Distance marker in Kolonia - everywhere is a long way from Pohnpei.

Distance marker in Kolonia – everywhere is a long way from Pohnpei.

The island is volcanic and mountainous, with those mountains being covered in verdant rainforests and cascading waterfalls.

History

Archaeologists estimate that people came to Pohnpei between 2,000 and 3,000 years ago from Southeast Asia. The first European contact was with the Spanish in 1529.

The Spanish made the island part of the Spanish East Indies (along with The Philippines) and founded the city of Santiago de la Ascension. This city was later renamed Colonia (Spanish for colony) which was in turn renamed to today’s Kolonia.

The elusive Pohnpei Lorikeet seen on Sokehs ridge.

The elusive Pohnpei Lorikeet seen on Sokehs ridge.

Rule of the island passed from Spain to Germany to Japan then (following the defeat of the Japanese during WWII) to the United States. The US administered the island (under UN auspices) as part of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands until 1986 at which point the island obtained independence as one of four states (along with Yap, Chuuk, and Kosrae) comprising The Federated States of Micronesia. 

Shipping containers on Pohnpei are used in creative ways.

Shipping containers on Pohnpei are used in creative ways.

The standout historical feature of the island (and it’s top attraction) is the impressive ancient ruins of Nan Madol – the most impressive ruins complex in the Pacific. For more on Nan Madol, refer to the sightseeing section below.

Flag

The flag of Micronesia.

The flag of Micronesia.

The flag of the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM) was adopted on 30 November 1978. The blue field represents the Pacific Ocean, while the four stars represent the states in the federation: Chuuk, Pohnpei, Kosrae and Yap.

Currency

US Dollar

The US Dollar.

In centuries past, the islands of FSM, notably Yap, used stone currency, which was referred to as “Rai” or “Fei”. Impossibly large and too heavy to carry, this traditional currency, which seemed to be more suited to a giant, was crafted from Calcite, which was carved into doughnut-shaped disks.

Yap Stone Currency.

Yap Stone Currency.
Source: https://medium.com/the-mission/the-island-of-yap-and-the-idea-of-money-9f570421d854

Today, along with all former members of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, the official currency of FSM is the US dollar which is so much easier to carry.

Betel-Nut

Betel-Nut for sale at a shop in Kolonia.

Betel-Nut for sale at a shop in Kolonia.

Betel nut is a popular stimulant on Pohnpei and can be found in shops and markets across the island.

A form of local chewing tobacco, the betel nut is split open and powdered with lime, wrapped with pepper plant leaf and then placed in the mouth where it is chewed. Am indicator of beetle nut use is an orange mouth  a result of chewing

It’s a practice found throughout the FSM, but Pohnpei and Yap have it in abundance and it is a relatively important exported cash-crop for the local economies.

Sights

With the exception of Nan Madol and a few colonial relics scattered around Kolonia, most sights on the island are of the natural kind. The other joy of travelling on Pohnpei are the locals. Without exception, they are friendly, warm and welcoming.

Traditional embroidered ‘Pohnpei’ dresses.

Traditional embroidered ‘Pohnpei’ dresses.

Due to the complete lack of transport on the island you will need to hire a car if you wish to explore beyond Kolonia (you should definitely get out of town). There is one ring road around the island which is 130-km in length. You can cover all sights in one full day.

There are very few petrol stations outside of Kolonia so better to have a full tank before leaving town. I’ve covered the sights as you will approach them if you travel in an anti-clockwise direction around the island, with Kolonia at the 12 o’clock position.

Girl on Pohnpei.

No shortage of smiles on Pohnpei.

Kolonia

With a population of 6,000, Kolonia is the capital and main city of Pohnpei. With a few roads, a handful of shops and all of the (limited) tourist services on the island, the town is the centre of action but very quiet and relaxed. There are few sights (a German clock tower and a Spanish stone wall) but it is a pleasant place to spend an hour or two exploring.

Sokehs Ridge

Sokehs Rock, a gigantic exposed basalt volcanic plug is the most striking feature of Pohnpei's topography.

Sokehs Rock, a gigantic exposed basalt volcanic plug is the most striking feature of Pohnpei’s topography.

Overlooking Kolonia is the impressive Sokehs Ridge. The hike up to the top of the ridge offers a good workout and is best done early morning or late afternoon. If you have a car you can park it in the car park of the police station at the start of the tarmac road which leads part way up the ridge.

Eventually the tarmac road becomes a dirt road (still passable in a 4WD) before reaching a level ridge from which point you must walk. This is the start of a very steep trail which climbs up to the ridge from where you will have the most amazing views of Kolonia and the Pacific. This is a long, sweaty slog on a remote ridge so ensure you are carrying ample water.

Japanese war memorial on Sokeh's ridge.

Japanese war memorial on Sokeh’s ridge.

Once you reach the top of the ridge (you’ll probably have the ridge to yourself) you can follow trails which take you to Japanese WWII ruins and eventually onto the communications tower from where you have panoramic views of the northern side of the island.

Palikir

FSM capital, Palikir

The FSM capital, Palikir, is located in a small administrative enclave on a side road of Pohnpei.

Just 8-km south of Kolonia is a right-hand turn off the main road, which leads to Palikir – the capital of the Federated States of Micronesia.

Government buildings in sleepy Palikir.

Government buildings in sleepy Palikir.

The capital is a tiny planned enclave of little consequence, with uniformly designed buildings arranged around a small park area. I visited on a weekend and had the place to myself – there was no sign of life – no cafes, restaurants or services of any kind.

Nan Madol

The impressive walls of Nan Madol.

The impressive walls of Nan Madol.

Located in a remote coastal setting, about 90 minutes south of Kolonia (along the east coast), Nan Madol is the one ‘must see’ attraction on Pohnpei. If this was anywhere else in the world you would be lining up to buy a ticket and jostling with hoards of tourists who would be constantly photo-bombing your shots.

But here – on remote Pohnpei – you will probably have the sight to yourself. The ruined city is very impressive and extensive, but the addition of being in such a remote place makes a visit a truly unique experience.

You reach the ruins after a 10 minute walk along a track, which leads you through a steamy mangrove forest. You have to pay three different  property owners an ‘access’ fee along the way, the last payment (US$5) is to the man who transports you across a narrow channel in his kayak, dropping you at the main entrance to the ruins.

A diagram of the sprawling Nan Madol complex.

A diagram of the sprawling Nan Madol complex.

It is believed Nan Madol was constructed by the same people who built the Leluh site on Kosrae (for more on that refer to my Kosrae blog). The city was constructed in a lagoon and consists of a series of small artificial islands (nearly 100) spread over an area of 1.5 km by 0.5 km.

There is no public transport to Nan Madol, you can reach the ruins either by car or by joining a tour.

Kepirohi Waterfall

Pohnpei Travel Guide: Kepirohi waterfall is located a short drive from Nan Madol.

Kepirohi waterfall is located a short drive from Nan Madol.

Located north of the Nan Madol turnoff (look for the roadside sign) is this beautiful Basalt waterfall. To access the falls, you first pay an ‘access’ fee to the property owner who occupies a shed by the main road.

You then have a 5 minute walk along a lush, forested trail to the falls. This is a great place to cool off after a sweaty day of sightseeing so don’t forget your swimmers.

Accommodation

7-stars Inn

Like everything else, Kolonia is where it’s at in terms of accommodation options on Pohnpei. I stayed in the conveniently located 7-stars Inn, a short walk from the downtown area. Rooms here are spacious and comfortable and include free Wi-Fi.

One of the more popular restaurants in town, The Riverside Restaurant, is located in the basement of the hotel, along with one of the only sports bars on the island. The hotel provides a free airport shuttle service.

Joy Hotel

Another mid-range option in downtown Kolonia is the Joy Hotel which is run by a Japanese family.

The Suzuki family offers basic rooms and a restaurant which, naturally, specialises in Japanese cuisine.  

Mangrove Bay Hotel

Another popular (but more expensive) option is the Mangrove Bay hotel. The hotel is a little further from downtown Kolonia but is more relaxing and includes a PADI dive shop and boat transport for surfers wishing to catch a ride to Palikir pass. For all hotels it’s best to book using booking.com

Eating Out

The fiery Pohnpei pepper is grown in the south of the island at a garden owned by Sei.

The fiery Pohnpei pepper is grown in the south of the island at a garden owned by Sei.

There are plenty of wonderful restaurants, bars and cafes on Pohnpei – all located in Kolonia.

One place which deserves a special mention is the friendly, Japanese owned Sei Pepper shop. Mr Sei grows his pepper on a farm located on the southern side of Pohnpei, however the only place to buy his pepper is from his shop on the main street of Kolonia (located a short walk from the 7-stars Inn).

The delicious organic Pohnpei coffee available at Sei.

The delicious organic Pohnpei coffee available at Sei.

The cafe is a meeting place for the local Japanese community who come together to sip the local Pohnpei coffee, which has a very bold, robust flavour. Attached to the cafe is a curry house where you can sample tasty curries made with Pohnpei pepper and other locally grown spices.

The amazing pepper donuts at Sei Cafe - a fiery experience!

The amazing pepper donuts at Sei Cafe – a fiery experience!

A specialty of the restaurant are the fiery Pohnpei Pepper Donuts, which you can wash down with a cup of Pohnpei coffee.

 


The Japanese Community in Micronesia

The Sei cafe serves as a meeting place for the Japanese community on Pohnpei.

The Sei cafe serves as a meeting place for the Japanese community on Pohnpei.

Japan has enjoyed close ties with Micronesia throughout history, and, at the time of WWII in 1942, there were 96,000 Japanese who called Micronesia home.

After the war, the Japanese population were repatriated back to Japan, however most people of mixed Japanese–Micronesian ethnicity remained in the islands and constituted a substantial percentage in the islands’ population. They became assimilated with the Micronesians, and in all official census they are identified by their Micronesian heritage.

If you’re interested to learn more about the Japanese connection to Micronesia, the Sei cafe in Kolonia is a good place to start your enquiries.


 

There are numerous restaurants in Kolonia – my favourite was the restaurant at the Joy Hotel. This restaurant serves amazing Japanese food (including the freshest sushi and sashimi) at very reasonable prices. All ingredients were fresh and nicely presented. I ate here more than once and would especially recommend ordering the ‘Joy special’.

For more upscale dining, there is the waterfront restaurant at the Mangrove Bay hotel.

A refreshing drink throughout FSM is iced tea – always made from fresh black tea, which is served in a glass with lots of cool ice. The sweetener (always simple syrup) is served on the side so you can decide on your level of sweetness.

Iced Tea served with simple syrup on the side in a cafe in Kolonia.

Iced Tea served with simple syrup on the side in a cafe in Kolonia.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for the Micronesia – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

Boarding United Airlines' Island Hopper (UA154) at Pohnpei airport.

Boarding United Airlines’ Island Hopper (UA154) at Pohnpei airport.

By Air

Arriving at Pohnpei Airport.

Arriving at Pohnpei Airport.

Flights to Pohnpei arrive at Pohnpei International Airport (IATA: PNI), .

If you are seated on the right side of the plane you will have a spectacular view of Sokehs Ridge on the final approach.  For more on Pohnpei airport, refer to my Central Pacific Island Hopping blog.

Like many islands within the region, commercial air service is rather limited due to small population and tourist traffic.

The following airlines provide connections to/from Pohnpei (Updated: August 2024):

  • Caroline Islands Air (Charter flights only) – flies to/ from Chuuk, Enewetak, Kapingamarangi, Kosrae, Mwoakilloa Airfield, Nukuoro, Pingelap, Sapwuahfik, Mortlock Islands Airfield (Ta), Woleai, Yap
  • Nauru Airlines – flies to/ from Palau, Majuro, Nauru, Tarawa
  • United Airlines – flies to/ from Chuuk, Guam, Honolulu, Kosrae, Kwajalein, Majuro
A view of the terminal at Pohnpei airport.

A view of the terminal at Pohnpei airport.

Nauru Airlines

Nauru Airlines route map - as of August 2024.

Nauru Airlines route map – as of August 2024.

Nauru Airlines offer regular connections to many destination in the Central Pacific region, including Pohnpei, from their base at Brisbane International Airport.

An especially useful connection, for those already travelling in the South Pacific, is the airline’s regular flight from Nadi (Fiji) which offers connections to countries in the Central Pacific.

Email address of the Brisbane office: book@ourtravel.com.au

Getting Around

Bus

There are no buses on Pohnpei.

Taxi

There are a few taxis available in Kolonia.

Car

The license plate of my rental car on Pohnpei.

The license plate of my rental car on Pohnpei.

There are very few rental companies on Pohnpei but you will need a car if you wish to explore on your own.

I hired a car through my hotel at US$65 a day.

Although expensive – I had a very nice, brand new, KIA Sportage – perfect for the bumpy, potholed roads outside of Kolonia. I felt like a ‘boss’ cruising around in my SUV and definitely didn’t want to give it up but United couldn’t fit it on the island hopper flight. :-))

As mentioned previously, fuel supply outside of Kolonia is limited so best to ensure you have a full tank prior to leaving town. If you do get stuck you can find roadside stalls selling fuel by the gallon ($5/ gallon).

I saw just one petrol station outside of Kolonia. Elsewhere you can purchase fuel from small roadside stalls.

I saw just one petrol station outside of Kolonia. Elsewhere you can purchase fuel from small roadside stalls.

 

 


That’s the end of my Pohnpei Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren


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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Pacific region:

Pohnpei Travel Guide Pohnpei Travel Guide Pohnpei Travel Guide Pohnpei Travel Guide Pohnpei Travel Guide Pohnpei Travel Guide Pohnpei Travel Guide Pohnpei Travel Guide

Travel Quiz 02: Caribbean

Caribbean Quiz: Vendors on the beach at Boca Chica

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A very colourful Galapagos land iguana on South Plaza Island.
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Artwork on display at Lae airport.
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A rainbow over Kaieteur Falls, Guyana.
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That’s a total of 1,600 trivia questions waiting to challenge you.

You’ll find a range of quizzes covering such topics as:

  • Currencies
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  • Landlocked Countries and much more!

Don’t forget to share these quizzes with your family, friends and community using the social media buttons at the top of the quiz.

Apart from excellent travel quizzes, you’ll also find other outstanding content on taste2travel – such as travel guides, photo galleries and feature articles which provide tips on booking cheap flights and much more.

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