Author - Darren McLean

Christmas time at Galeries Lafayette, Paris 🇫🇷 .

#paris #parisian #parís #parisfrance #france #francetourisme #french #gallerieslafayette #taste2travel

Sint Eustatius Travel Guide

9 years ago

Caribbean Travel Quiz; A panoramic view of Statia from a Winair flight.

Sint Eustatius (Statia) Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Statia Travel Guide!

Date Visited: May 2015

Introduction

St. Eustatius, or Statia is a quirky little place. Today it’s a tiny (32 km²), sleepy island with a small population (3,857), most of whom live in it’s capital – Oranjestad. The most dominant geographical feature on the island is the Quill (609-m), a dormant volcano.

A Dutch-era colonial building on Statia.

Statia is off the well-beaten Caribbean tourist trail, if you are looking for the Caribbean of 40 years ago then this is the island for you.

Warehouse ruins on the Lower Town beach at Oranjestad

The island was not always so quiet – it was once known as the trading centre of the world and used to attract thousands of merchant ships to its shores. It was also the first foreign power to recognise the independence of the United States of America. Since Columbus first landed on the island in 1493, it has changed hands at least 22 times among the British, French and Dutch. Today it is part of the Caribbean Netherlands.

Location

Caribbean Netherlands

The island lies in the northern Leeward Islands, 11-km northwest of St. Kitts, 11-km southeast of Saba (Dutch), south of St. Barths (French), Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin (Dutch/ French) and Anguilla (British).

The official language is Dutch but English is the language used for everyday life on the island with education also being in English.

Sunset from Oranjestad beach.

History

The first inhabitants of Statia were the Saladoids, who arrived from South America.

Columbus was the first European to make landfall in 1493, during his 2nd voyage to the Americas. He named the island after San Eustaquio (Saint Eustace), a legendary Christian martyr.

Colonial-era building on Sint Eustatius.

In 1636, the Dutch West India Company took possession of the island. By 1678 the company also held control of neighbouring Saba and Sint Maarten. The company established more than 70 plantations on Statia and imported slaves from West Africa as a labour source. Payment for the slaves was made using the now famous Blue Bead – see ‘Statia Blue Bead‘ section below. Most of the inhabitants of the island today are descendants of former slaves.

Display in the St Eustatius Historical Foundation Museum in Oranjestad.

Due to its “free port” status, its naturally deep harbour and perfect geographic location between Europe and America, Statia became one of the busiest ports in the world with thousands of merchant ships visiting. At the time the island supported a population of more than 20,000 people. It was at this time it earned the title, ‘The Golden Rock’.

Today the island is a clean, relaxed, unhurried, charming place. The locals are warm and friendly, you can walk most places and there is no crime.

Although Statia receives just a few thousand tourists each year, tourism is a key industry. Unlike its neighbours, the island is not known for its beaches, which are narrow and lined with grey volcanic sand. However the Eustatius National Marine Park, provides good diving from reefs to shipwrecks. Some divers even manage to find a blue bead – or the bead finds them. You can also hike to the top of the Quill.

Ruins of the Dutch Reformed church in Oranjestad which dates from 1755.

While you are on the island you can not help but notice the number of super tankers docked offshore. The island is home to a huge oil storage facility, which currently contains 67 storage tanks with a capacity of more than 13-million barrels.

With a natural deep-water harbour and a central geographical location (half way between North and South America), Statia is an ideal place for such a trans-shipment facility.

Statia Blue Bead

A Statia Blue Bead.

Back in the 17th century the Dutch East India Company used blue beads to acquire slaves from West Africa, who then later used the beads as currency on the island, and even sometimes to buy their freedom.

The beads were also used for barter purposes, it is said the Dutch used 24 of these blue beads for the purchase of Manhattan Island from the native Americans.

The beads were manufactured in Amsterdam by a glass manufacturer between 1660 and 1680 and were shipped around the world by the boatload. Some of those boats were destined for Statia. It is believed one of these boats became shipwrecked off the island and today the seafloor is littered with these beads.

It is also said the slaves threw their beads into the sea when slavery ended.

Occasionally these beads wash up onto the beaches of the island. It is said that “you do not find a blue bead but it finds you” and that those who possess such a bead will always return to the island.

Flag

The flag of Statia flying alongside the Dutch flag.

The flag of Statia features a blue field which is divided into four five-sided blue polygons. In the centre, within a white diamond, is a silhouette of the island in green with a five-pointed golden star.

Currency

The US Dollar.

The official currency of Statia is the US Dollar. ATMs are located in Oranjestad and at the airport, but can be unreliable; it’s best to bring cash, which is preferred by many establishments.

Sightseeing

Oranjestad

View of ‘Lower town’ from Fort Oranje.

The only town on the island, this sleepy little capital is home to the majority of the population, sites and tourist infrastructure. The town is perched high on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean sea and is divided into the ‘Upper Town‘ and ‘Lower Town‘.

All sites of Oranjestad can be covered on foot in half a day. These include:

Fort Oranje

The historic Dutch-built Fort Oranje in Oranjestad.

The first thing the Dutch did when they occupied St. Eustatius was to build a fort on a strategic corner of the cliff, overlooking the anchorage of Oranje Bay. This well preserved 17th century fort still retains its cannons and bastions and offers sweeping views along the west coast.

In its hey-day, the island sold arms and ammunition to anyone willing to pay. It was one of the few places from which the young United States could obtain military supplies during it’s revolution.

The good relationship between St. Eustatius and the United States resulted in the noted “First Salute” from Fort Oranje. A historical plaque from the “National Society, Daughters of the American Revolution” recognises the importance the fort played during the American revolution.

Dutch Reformed Church

The Dutch Reformed Church.

Located next to Fort Oranje, consecrated in 1775, this church has been in ruins since it’s roof collapsed during a hurricane in 1792.

Synagogue Ruins

Built in 1738, this is the 2nd oldest synagogue in the Western Hemisphere. “Honen Dalim”, which means ‘She Who Is Kind to the Poor’, was constructed as a place of worship for the influx of Jewish merchants who lived on the island when it was a major trading centre. A Jewish cemetery is located 50-m from the synagogue.

Government Guesthouse

Originally used as a Government guesthouse, this 18th century stone and wood building was completely renovated in the 1990’s and now houses government offices, including the offices of the lieutenant governor.

The St. Eustatius Historical Foundation

The St. Eustatius Historical Foundation Museum.

This museum provides an overview of the island’s history, from the pre-Colombian era to the present.

Displays at the St. Eustatius Historical Foundation Museum.

Lower Town Beach

Statia is not known for it’s beaches but the grey-sand beach in Lower Town provides snorkeling among the 18th-century ruins of a breakwater and warehouses. The beach is open and exposed to swells so snorkeling is not always possible. Lining the beach are the ruins of warehouses used in the days when the island was a major trading centre.

Warehouse ruins on the Lower Town beach at Oranjestad.

Accommodation

Accommodation is limited on the island, best to book in advance using an online agent such as booking.com

I stayed at the Golden Era Hotel, which is located directly on the Caribbean sea below the fort. The rooms here are tired and in need of renovation and overpriced but on this island, with limited options, you cannot afford to be picky.

The best hotel on the island is the Old Gin House, located next door to the Golden Era Hotel.

Eating Out

Statia is not blessed with any fine dining restaurants but the best in town is the Blue Bead Bar & Restaurant. This Italian restaurant does the best pizza on the island and the front porch is a great place to sit and watch the sunset.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Statia – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

The only airport on tiny Statia is F. D. Roosevelt Airport. Like the island, the airport is all very quirky. The tiny terminal is never busy, there are no queues, just a single room where you wait for your flight. When you arrive your luggage will be handed to you through a hole in the wall.

Immediately upon exiting you will find yourself on a sleepy suburban street. Maybe one of the 3 taxis on the island will be on the rank, if not you can ask airport staff to call one for you. Walking into town is totally do-able, a distance of 1-km.

The following airline provides international connections:

Trans Anguilla Airways – flies to Anguilla, Nevis, Saint Kitts
Winair – flies to Sint Maarten

By Sea

There was a ferry service previously operating between St. Martin and Statia but that is currently suspended.

The only other way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

Getting Around

A Statia License Plate.

There is no public transport on the island. A few taxis are available but should be booked in advance. If you take a taxi from the airport to your downtown hotel you should arrange for the same driver to take you back to the airport when you depart. Taxis are not metered but have fixed prices.

Car Rental is available, however the island is small enough that you can walk most places.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram:

taste2travel

Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide

9 years ago

Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

The Federation of Saint Kitts and Nevis is a two-island country. It’s part of the Leeward Islands, which are a part of the Lesser Antilles.

It’s located southeast of the islands of Sint Eustatius (Dutch), Saba (Dutch) and south of the islands of Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin (Dutch/ French), Saint Barthélemy (French) and Anguilla (British). It’s located west of Antigua & Barbuda and northeast of Montserrat (British).

Location

Saint Kitts and Nevis

It’s the smallest sovereign state in the Americas, in terms of area (270 square km) and population (54,000). The population is mostly comprised of Afro-Caribbean’s who are descendants from former slaves.

Despite its small size, St. Kitts has played a big part in the European settlement of the Caribbean.

Vervet monkeys were introduced to St. Kitts from Africa more 300 years ago.

History

A view from Brimstone Hill fortress on St. Kitts.

The first settlers to arrive on the islands (3,000 B.C) were an archaic people from Florida (USA). As with every other island in the region, they were eventually replaced by the peaceful Arawak’s, who migrated north from present day Venezuela. The Arawak’s were replaced by the more aggressive Caribs. It was the Caribs whom the Europeans met when they first arrived.

Saint Kitts and Nevis were among the first islands in the Caribbean to be settled by Europeans. The first European to make landfall in 1493 was – no surprise – Columbus during his second voyage to the Americas.

Columbus originally named the island Sant Jago (St. James) but early Spanish explorers confused the island with neighbouring Saba, then labelled on maps as ‘San Cristobal’ or Saint Christopher. The name has stuck ever since.

In the 17th century, a common British nickname for Christopher was Kit, or Kitt. The British used this name for the island and it remains in use today.

The Spanish never settled on St. Kitts, instead the first Europeans to settle on the island were French Huguenots in 1538. The Spanish were not happy with the French move so they eventually returned and destroyed the settlement, expelling its inhabitants.

The British settled on the island in 1623. The French then returned and an arrangement was made between the two, whereby the British would control the centre of St. Kitts and the French would control either ends of the island. Saint Kitts was home to the first British and French colonies in the Caribbean.

The British used St. Kitts as their base to settle the islands of Antigua, Montserrat, Anguilla and Tortola (British Virgin Islands).

The French used St. Kitts as their base to settle the islands of Martinique, Guadeloupe and Saint Barthélemy. The French established Basseterre as their capital on St. Kitts and later designated it as the capital for the entire French West Indies.

During the 17th century the British and French continuously battled each other for control of the island. After a decisive British victory over the French at Brimstone Hill in 1782, the French ceded the island to Britain. The British maintained control until independence in 1983.

A golden sunset, South Friars beach on St. Kitts.

Historically St. Kitts and Nevis (despite being separated by a narrow channel) were always governed as separate independent entities until they were forced into a union in the 19th century by Britain.

Rivalries still remain today with Nevis accusing St. Kitts of neglect. In past referendums a majority of Nevians voted for secession from the federation, but they have never reached the 2/3 majority mark which would allow this to happen.

Eastern Caribbean Central Bank

The Eastern Caribbean Dollar.

The official currency of St. Kitts and Nevis is the Eastern Caribbean dollar.

Headquartered in Basseterre, the Eastern Caribbean Central Bank (ECCB) is the monetary authority for the following Caribbean nations:

Antigua & Barbuda
Grenada
St. Kitts & Nevis
Dominica
St. Lucia
St. Vincent and the Grenadines

and the following British overseas territories:

Anguilla
Montserrat

The bank was founded in 1983 in order to maintain the stability of the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$) and the integrity of the banking system of the member states.

The bank issues the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$), which is the currency of the member states. Since 1976, the exchange rate has been pegged to the US$ at a rate of US$1 = EC$2.70.

Flag

Saint Kitts and Nevis Flag

The flag of Saint Kitts and Nevis consists of a yellow-edged black band containing two white stars that divides diagonally from the lower hoist-side corner, with a green upper triangle and red lower triangle.

Designed in the early 80’s by a student, Edris Lewis, the colour green alludes to the country’s fertile land, while the red evokes the fight for freedom against slavery and colonialism. The yellow stripes represent ‘sunshine’, while the black epitomises the people’s African origins and the two white stars symbolise hope and liberty.

Sightseeing

St. Kitts – Basseterre

A view of Basseterre from my Winair flight to St. Martin.

The capital and largest city (population: 13,000) of St. Kitts & Nevis, Basseterre is a port city located in a valley surrounded by mountains. Founded in 1627 by the French, it is one of the oldest towns in the Eastern Caribbean. The French named it ‘Basseterre’ (low land) due to its valley setting. It served as the capital of the French colony of Saint-Christophe, which consisted of the northern and southern extremities of the island of St. Kitts. At this time Britain controlled the central portion of the island. At one point Basseterre was made the capital of the entire French West Indies, which included the islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique.

In 1727 the British took full control of the island and Basseterre was made capital of the entire island. Basseterre today is the home of the headquarters of the Eastern Caribbean Central Bank and a financial centre for the region. The city centre is compact and most sites can be covered on foot in a day.

Sites include:

Independence Square

Once the site of a slave market, the square was renamed when the island achieved independence from Britain. Today the square is a tranquil oasis in the bustling city centre.

The Circus

Named after London’s Piccadilly circus, ‘The Circus’ is the centre of Basseterre.

The landmark in Basseterre, the Circus is a round-about with an ornate clock tower at its centre. The cafes overlooking the Circus are a good place to sit and relax and watch the world go by.

St. George’s Anglican Church

The historic St. George’s Anglican Church in Basseterre.

The French built the first church on this site in 1670. This was later destroyed by the British. Since then a number of churches have been built but have been destroyed by either fire, earthquakes or hurricanes. The current church was consecrated in 1859.

Co-Cathedral of Immaculate Conception

One of the tallest structures in Basseterre. Worth 5 minutes of your time.

National Museum

Housed in the old treasury building, this small museum contains an interesting collection of exhibits explaining the history of the island.

My favourite cafe downtown is the Gallery Cafe. The cafe is housed in a beautiful old wooden building on the north side of Independence square. The cafe is owned by Leah – a friendly and enthusiastic British expat. The coffee here is very good as is the food. There are artworks from local artists available for purchase.

St. Kitts – Around the Island

If you drive in a clockwise direction around the island from Basseterre, you will cover the following sites in the same order.

Bloody Point

On the road to Romney Manor you will pass Bloody Point. This was the sight of the Carib massacre of 1626.

The Caribs were afraid that the number of European settlers on the island was increasing so they devised a plan to massacre them. The British were told in advance of the plan and together with the French decided to strike first.

They launched a surprise attack, massacring around 3,000 natives, enough that the river here was said to flow red with blood for 3 days after the massacre, hence the name. The site of the massacre is marked with a simple white cross.

Romney Manor

The 350-year-old Saman tree at Romney Manor.

Owned and managed over the centuries by successive Earls of Romney, this 17th-century sugar estate once belonged to the great-great-great-grandfather of Thomas Jefferson (3rd President of USA).

It is believed that Tegereman, the Carib Indian Chief, once had his village on this site.

The manor sits on a hill in among lush gardens with panoramic views over the sea. The entrance to the manor is dominated by a huge 350-year-old Saman tree. On the way up to the manor you can visit the ruins of the old sugar mill.

The manor is now the home of Caribelle Batik, which sells handmade batik wraps, dresses and other items.

Colourful batik drying at ‘Caribelle Batik’ whose workshop is located at Romney Manor.

Brimstone Hill Fortress

Set on an impressive hill at an elevation of 243-m overlooking the Caribbean sea, Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the site of one of the most impressive forts in the Caribbean.

Begun in the 1690’s, the fort was built over a period of 100 years by British military engineers using slave labour. The entire fortress has been constructed using the hard volcanic rock of which the hill is composed.

View of St. Kitts from Brimstone Hill fortress with the Dutch island of Statia in the background.

From the fort you have panoramic views of the coastline of St. Kitts, the Caribbean sea, the township of Sandy Point, and the neighbouring Dutch island of Statia.

St. Johns Anglican Church at Belle Vue on the north coast of St. Kitts.

Dieppe Bay Town

Settled in 1538, Dieppe Bay Town is the oldest town founded by Europeans in the Eastern Caribbean. The Atlantic ocean and Caribbean sea converge here. There is good snorkeling just offshore.

Ottley’s Plantation Inn

This restored 18th-century sugar plantation is now a luxury inn and is located on a hill overlooking the east (Atlantic) coast of the island, 13-km from Basseterre.

The inn is set among lush gardens and provides access to a small rain forest where you can see vervet monkeys. The restaurant is especially good for lunch – see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more details.

South of Basseterre

A view of the isthmus and peninsula at the southern end of St. Kitts. Nevis peak is in the distance.

South of Basseterre, lies a thin isthmus, which joins the main part of the island to a peninsula. Here you will find the best beaches on the island. Many of these beaches are currently secluded but development is underway with giant resorts being constructed or in the planning stages.

Most of the beach at Kittian Village is occupied by the sprawling Marriott resort but is fully accessible to the public. The sand on this side of the isthmus is golden yellow.

Across on the opposite side of the isthmus lies Frigate Bay, which is actually two bays located close together. The sand on this side of the isthmus is grey. Frigate bay is popular with Basseterre locals, with a number of beach bars and restaurants offering drinks and dinner.

Further south is South Friars Bay, another grey-sand beach. The highlight here is sunset drinks at the Ship Wreck Beach Bar and Grill – (See the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more details). There is good snorkeling just offshore.

Added entertainment is provided by some wild vervet monkeys and ferrets who are fed scraps from the restaurant kitchen.

A view of South Friars beach on St Kitts.

Further south is the upscale development of Christophe Harbour, which includes a marina and an expensive waterfront bar – Salt Plage. For those who like to sip ‘signature’ cocktails while watching the sunset.

A new luxury Hyatt resort is scheduled to open in 2016 at Banana Bay, which is located at the end of the peninsula, overlooking the ‘narrows’ and Nevis.

A sea gull on St. Kitts.

Nevis – Charlestown

At 93 square kilometres, Nevis is small. There is a single road which follows the coast around the island, which could be driven in under two hours. Nevis lies just 3-km across a shallow channel from St. Kitts. The channel is known as “The Narrows”. Regular ferries connect the two islands.

The sea-bridge ferry connects St. Kitts to Nevis (background).

The island was formed by a now dormant volcano – Nevis Peak, which lies at the centre of the island.

Like St. Kitts, the beaches on the island are composed of a mixture of white coral sand mixed with brown and black sand, which is eroded and washed down from the volcanic rocks that make up the island.

The name, Nevis, is derived from the Spanish, Nuestra Señora de las Nieves, so named because the white cloud that usually covers the top of Nevis Peak reminded the Spaniards of the ancient Catholic miracle ‘Our Lady of the Snows’.

Horatio Nelson was once stationed on Nevis, he met and married a Nevisian, Frances Nisbet, the young widow of a plantation-owner.

The island has a population 12,000, mostly descendants of former African slaves.

Charlestown is the capital and largest city (population: 1,538) of Nevis. Frequent ferries connect Charlestown with Basseterre – see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below for more details. There is not much to see in this tiny village but it is a nice place to meander for an hour or two.

Charlestown was the birth place of Alexander Hamilton – who would later become a chief aide to General George Washington and was one of the founding fathers of the United States of America.

Sites to see:

Museum of Nevis

This museum provides an overview of the history of Nevis. The birthplace of Alexander Hamilton is next door.

Memorial Square

Memorial Square in Charlestown, the charming capital of Nevis.

A nice shady square where you can relax and watch the world go by. The square is lined with beautiful old stone colonial buildings, including the courthouse and library.

Market Place

A small covered market where you can purchase local produce.

Nevis – Around the Island

Like St. Kitts, there is one road which follows the coast around this circular island. It’s impossible to get lost. If you drive without stopping you could see the entire island in under 2 hours.

Driving in a clockwise direction from Charlestown, you will pass:

Pinney’s Beach

Directly north of Charlestown, this is a nice sandy stretch of beach on the protected leeward (Caribbean) side of the island. Its a popular beach and can get busy.

Cades Bay

This quiet bay, which has a beautiful beach, is the terminal for the Seabridge vehicle ferry.

On the main road you will find Mansa’s Last Stop, a corner store, which stocks local produce. It is owned by Mervin “Mansa” Tyson, who is passionate about his fruits and vegetables, which he grows himself.

Lovers Beach

At the top of the island you will find this picture postcard beach of white sand and turquoise waters.

Vance W. Amory International Airport

Nevis’s international airport is located at the top of the island – see the ‘Getting There‘ section for more details.

Newcastle

In the village of Newcastle you will find Newcastle Pottery, where local artisans create unique pieces using generations-old techniques. A red clay, which is native to the island, is used to produce each hand-worked piece – there are no pottery wheels in use here.

Golden Rock Inn

The beautiful garden at the Golden Rock Inn on Nevis.

Located just beyond the village of Mannings, as the road sweeps away from the coast, you will find the Golden Rock Inn. The beauty and serenity of this place is magical. If you are on the island, you simply have to visit.

The inn is located on a hill with panoramic views of the Atlantic coast and ocean. It’s surrounded by lush gardens and the ruins of an old sugar mill. You should time your visit during a mealtime, the food in the restaurant is divine. For more on the restaurant see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below.

The garden at the Golden Rock Inn on Nevis.

Accommodation

There are lots of options on both St. Kitts and Nevis. I stayed on St Kitts at the Royal St. Kitts Hotel, which is located in the Kittian Village neighbourhood. This neighbourhood is ideal as it offers easy access to Basseterre (10 min drive), to the beaches at the southern end of the island and all the bars, cafes and restaurants in the village.

Best to book in advance using booking.com

Eating Out

Agriculture on both islands is abundant due to the rich volcanic soil. Local produce can be purchased at the markets in Basseterre or Charlestown.

Restaurant menus feature typical West Indian classics such as goat stew, which includes breadfruit and green papaya in a tomato-based stew. Seafood is also abundant.

St. Kitts

On St. Kitts, the restaurant at Ottley’s Plantation Inn serves up gourmet cuisine all within the old stone walls of the former sugar factory. Its an ideal place to stop for lunch if you are exploring the island. The plantation is located off the main road, on the east coast, in the town of Ottley, 13-km from Basseterre.

South of Basseterre is the tourist enclave of Kittian Village (home to the sprawling Marriott resort). Here you will find restaurants, bars and cafes. The best coffee in this neighbourhood is served at the Rituals cafe on the main road.

Nearby is Frigate bay, a nice sandy beach which is lined with beach bars and restaurants. Its especially lively in the evenings.

Further south on South Friars bay is the Ship Wreck Beach Bar and Grill. This place has a rustic ‘shipwrecked’ feel to it, with furniture made from bits of driftwood and other items found on the beach. This is an ideal place to watch the sunset while enjoying a happy-hour rum punch. There is a grey sand beach here and an offshore reef for snorkeling.

Nevis

For a memorable lunch on Nevis, it is hard to beat ‘The Rocks‘ restaurant, which is at the Golden Rock Inn. Everything at the inn, from the rooms, the garden and the food has been carefully considered. If you are looking for a special dining experience this is the place.

Located on the slopes of Nevis peak, 5-km from Charlestown, the restaurant serves Caribbean cuisine in a beautiful outdoor garden setting. The seafood is purchased from local fisherman, the produce from local farmers. The meals are full of flavour and the fresh fruit juices are divine. Its open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Highly recommended.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for St. Kitts & Nevis – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

View of the north coast of St. Kitts from my Winair flight to St. Martin.

By Air

St. Kitts

International flights to St. Kitts arrive at Robert L. Bradshaw International Airport, located on the northeast outskirts of Basseterre.

The following airlines provide international connections to Robert L. Bradshaw International Airport:

Air Sunshine – flies to/ from Anguilla, Saint Croix, Saint Thomas, San Juan, Tortola
American Airlines – flies to/ from Miami
British Airways – flies to/ from Antigua, London-Gatwick
LIAT – flies to/ from Antigua, Barbados, Sint Maarten, Tortola
Seaborne Airlines – flies to/ from San Juan
Trans Anguilla Airways – flies to/ from Anguilla, Antigua, Saint Eustatius

Nevis

International flights to Nevis arrive at Vance W. Amory International Airport, which is located in the northeast of the island, west of the village of Newcastle.

The following airlines provide international connections to Vance W. Amory International Airport:

Air Sunshine – flies to/ from Saint Croix, Saint Kitts, Saint Thomas, San Juan, Tortola
Cape Air – flies to/ from San Juan
Trans Anguilla Airways– flies to/ from Anguilla

By Sea

Despite the fact that the neighbouring Dutch territory of Statia is just 11 km from the nearest point on St. Kitts – and clearly visible across the sea – there are no international ferry services linking St. Kitts and Nevis to any other island.

The only other way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

Getting Around

Inter-Island Ferries

The Seabridge ferry from St. Kitts to Nevis.

There are frequent ferries, which make the short crossing across ‘the narrows’ between St. Kitts and Nevis. There is a vehicle ferry, which sails six times a day between St. Kitts (Mayors Bay) and Nevis (Cades Bay).

The 5-km crossing takes 15 minutes with the service operated by Seabridge Inc. The departure and arrival ports for this service are remote and taxis are not available. You should only use this ferry if you are travelling by car. Foot passengers should use the more convenient passenger ferry services, which sail between downtown Basseterre and downtown Charlestown.

A number of frequent passenger ferries operate between St. Kitts (Basseterre) and Nevis (Charlestown). Crossing time for the 12-km journey is between 30 to 45 minutes. Check the SKN Vibes website for all current ferry schedules.

Water taxis between the two islands are also available on demand.

Public Transport

The public transportation system on St. Kitts and Nevis is made up of privately owned mini-buses, which run according to demand and not a timetable. Buses stop and drop-off where ever required. Buses can be identified by their green license plates, which are all prefixed with a ‘H‘ or ‘HA‘.

Taxis

Taxis are available on both islands. You can identify them by their yellow license plates, which are all prefixed with a ‘T‘ or ‘TA‘.

Rental Car

A rental car is the best way to maximise your time on both St Kitts and Nevis.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. As with other Anglo-Caribbean countries, the government of St. Kitts and Nevis raises revenue by requiring anyone hiring a car to hold a temporary driving permit. This can be purchased at the car rental agency.

As with other Anglo-Caribbean islands, road signage is almost non-existent but there is just one road around the coastline of each island so its impossible to get lost.

At the time of my visit the government had a major road re-surfacing project underway on St. Kitts.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram:

taste2travel

Antigua Travel Guide

9 years ago

English naval flags at Nelson's Dockyard, Antigua.

Antigua Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Antigua Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Antigua is one of the two islands, which comprise the sovereign nation of Antigua & Barbuda. The islands lie 30-km apart. Barbuda is not covered in this post as it was not visited.

Artist studio in English harbour, Antigua.

Antigua is part of the Leeward Islands, which are a part of the Lesser Antilles lying north of Guadeloupe, north-east of Montserrat and east of St. Kitts & Nevis.

Location

Antigua and Barbuda

The islands of Antigua and Barbuda are located in the Lesser Antilles, in the eastern Caribbean Sea, at the southern end of the Leeward Islands chain. The two islands lie 63 km (39 mi) apart and are connected by a daily ferry service.

Antigua is generally a low-lying island, essentially a large chunk of exposed limestone sea bed. In the south-west is a volcanic section, here you will find a few peaks and intense agriculture in the rich volcanic soil. The islands highest peak is located here – it was recently renamed Obama Peak (402-m).

All this limestone ensures lots of white sandy beaches and turquoise waters. The islands are rimmed by coral reefs. The flat terrain ensures little rainfall and there are few rivers or streams on the island. Most of the terrain is dry and arid, cacti are a common feature. Both islands lack adequate amounts of fresh groundwater.

History

For millennia the islands were inhabited by a succession of native Indian tribes, first the Ciboney (or Siboney), who migrated from present day Cuba, then the Arawak, who migrated from Venezuela then the more aggressive Caribs.

Antigua and Barbuda Flag

The Arawak introduced agriculture to the island, including the first pineapples, which would eventually evolve into today’s famous Antigua black pineapple (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below). Antigua was originally called Wa’ladli by the Arawak Indians and is still called this today by the locals.

Telephone Booth, Dickenson Bay, Antigua.

Dickenson Bay is a popular beach and home to the Sandals Grande Antigua resort.

Everything changed in 1493 when Christopher Columbus discovered the island. He named it Antigua in honour of La Virgen de la Antigua housed in the Seville Cathedral in Spain. When Columbus arrived he found a lack of fresh water but no lack of aggressive Caribs, hence the island was never settled by the Spaniards.

The islands were neglected by the early European colonisers but in 1632 the British established a settlement at St. John’s. In 1685 Barbuda was leased to brothers John and Christopher Codrington who ran the island as a private estate and used it as a nursery for slaves who worked on their sugar plantations on Antigua. The capital of Barbuda today is ‘Codrington’.

Turks Head Cactus on Antigua.

Like almost everywhere else in the region, the British established sugar plantations on the island and imported slaves from Africa as a labour source. Today the population of 89,000 is mostly (91%) Afro-Caribbean, descendants of the former slaves.

In 1981, the islands were granted independence as the modern state of Antigua and Barbuda.

The national flower of Antigua & Barbuda, the Dagger Log, is an Agave plant.

Economically, tourism is now the main game on the island. Off-shore banking is another important industry.

Sightseeing

St. John’s

Colourful souvenir at an artist’s studio in English harbour.

St. John’s is the capital and largest city (population: 22,000) of Antigua & Barbuda. The city has been the administrative centre of Antigua and Barbuda since the islands were first colonised in 1632. Today it is the seat of government.

Antigua is a centre for offshore banking, many international banks have offices in the city. St. John’s is a little more developed and cosmopolitan compared to other cities in the region.

There is a large modern cruise ship terminal in the city centre, which can cater for up to four ships. Around 50% of visitors to the island are day-tripping cruise ship passengers.

Attached to the terminal are two modern shopping malls, Heritage Quay and Redcliffe Quay. These offer the usual assortment of tourist shops.

The city centre is small and compact and all sites can easily be covered in a day.

Sites include:

St. Johns Cathedral – The main landmark in the city, the present cathedral was built on a fossilised reef in 1845. It is the third cathedral to occupy the site, the previous two being destroyed by earthquakes. The original cathedral (a wooden structure) was consecrated in 1681.

The Museum of Antigua & Barbuda in St. Johns.

Museum of Antigua & Barbuda – The museum provides an overview of the history and culture of Antigua & Barbuda. It covers an array of subjects and offers an eclectic mix of displays, from a model Arawak dwelling to Viv Richard’s (the islands’ greatest cricket player) cricket bat.
Market – located on the southwestern edge of the city, this bustling market is the place to purchase your black pineapple (see the ‘Eating Out’ section below) and all other local produce

Sunset from Fort James.

Fort James – on the outskirts of the city, the fort is located at the entrance to the harbour of St. John’s. The British, fearing a French invasion, constructed the fort in order to protect the harbour in the 18th century. This is a great place to watch the sunset over the Caribbean sea.

A reasonable place for either breakfast, lunch or dinner in downtown St. John’s is the Hemingway Caribbean Cafe. This cafe is a local institution and is housed upstairs in an historic wooden West Indian styled building on St. Mary’s street. Service and food can be hit or miss.

Around the Island

Nelsons Dockyard

Remnants of the former Nelson’s dockyard at English harbour.

Nelson’s Dockyard is located in English Harbour on the south side of the island. The dockyard is named after Admiral Horatio Nelson, who lived here from 1784 to 1787.

The British established a naval base here in the early 18th century as it was ideal to monitor French activities on neighbouring Guadeloupe. The harbour also proved to be a safe haven in the event of hurricanes. Most of the buildings on the site were built using slave labour from neighbouring plantations.

Souvenir shopping in English Harbour, Antigua.

In 1889 the Royal Navy abandoned the Dockyard and it fell into decay. It was restored in the 1950’s.

Today it is one of the most popular attractions on the island, offering a marina, museums, shops, cafes, restaurants etc. It is also home to Antigua Sailing week (see below).

English naval flags at Nelson’s Dockyard.

One of the main sites at the Dockyard is the museum. It was originally built in 1855 and served as an officers’ quarters in the Royal Navy Dockyard. It was restored in the 1970’s and opened as a museum in 1997.

Today the museum presents the history of Nelson’s Dockyard and includes information on the interesting, and scandalous, personal life of the Admiral.

Museum at Nelson’s Dockyard.

Sailing Week

Antigua has established itself as a premier sailing destination.

The last week of April brings sailors from around the world for Sailing Week. It’s one of the top five regattas in the world and the centre of the action is Nelson’s Dockyard.

During the regatta there is lots of action on the water and lots of apres action around Nelson’s Dockyard, including nightly concerts on a main stage, live bands in various other venues and nightly food markets showcasing Antiguan cuisine.

I was fortunate to be staying on the island during sailing week in 2015. It’s a great party.

Shirley Heights

View of the south coast towards English harbour from Shirley Heights

Shirley Heights is an old British naval lookout post. It is located on the south coast of the island and at an elevation of 150-m, offering panoramic views of English harbour, the coast and beyond. From here the British could keep an eye on the French on neighbouring Guadeloupe.

It is ‘the’ place to watch the sunset and on Sunday afternoons (from 4pm) you can enjoy a BBQ with a steel band. There are many old military buildings, which have been restored and can be visited.

The whole complex is located inside a national park so you need to pay to enter. Entrance to the park and fort is on an access road beyond English harbour.

Devil’s Bridge

Devil’s Bridge, a natural stone bridge on Antigua.

Situated at the end of a rocky road on a barren, wind-swept peninsula in the far north-west of the island is a natural limestone bridge known as Devil’s bridge. The bridge gets it’s name from the fact that it was a favourite place for slaves to commit suicide, and no jumper ever survived the rough surf so locals believed the devil lived here. You can walk across on a calm day but you should never attempt a crossing on a windy, rough day (most days). You can reach the bridge after passing the Verandah Resort & Spa beyond the town of Wilikies.

Located a short drive north of St. Johns, beautiful Dickenson Bay offers more powdery white-sand beaches, turquoise water and lots of accommodation options, including the mega-size Sandals Grande Antigua resort.

Sunset at Dickenson Bay.

Betty’s Hope

Old windmill at Betty’s Hope Plantation

Betty’s Hope is a former sugar plantation and is synonymous with the history of Antigua.

The plantation was first established in the early 1650s by a British Governor. After his death his wife inherited the plantation, however she abandoned it during the French occupation (1666). After the British recaptured the island in 1674 they awarded the estate to the Codrington family. This was the first sugar plantation for the family, who eventually owned 150 plantations on the island and established farming on neighbouring Barbuda. Most of the work was performed by slave labour imported from Africa.

Today one of the two windmills has been fully restored and you can visit an interpretation centre, which provides an overview of the sugar industry on the island.

Betty’s Hope is located along a dusty track just off Pares Village Main road beyond the town of Pares in the east of the island.

Antigua Beaches

A view of Half Moon Bay, Antigua.

As the tourist brochures proudly boast – “There are 365 beaches on Antigua – one for each day of the year”.

No matter which coast you are on, you will be be spoiled for choice. Although partly volcanic in origin, most of Antigua is raised limestone seabed which means lots of powdery white sand and turquoise waters. There are no shortage of beautiful beaches on this little island.

Half Moon Bay

Raking Sargassum seaweed off Half Moon Bay.

Located in the far east of the island is this remote beach. It is well worth the drive. You will be rewarded with crystal clear water, gentle waves and good snorkeling. Depending on the tide there can be a lot of seaweed either in the water or on the beach.

There is a small beach side kiosk serving snacks but not much else. It’s all wonderfully quiet and under-developed.

Long Bay

Located in St. Phillip parish in the far east, this beautiful beach offers lots of white powdery sand, calm waters and a reef with very good snorkeling just offshore (eastern end). There is a restaurant here, which serves lunch.

Accommodation

There is a variety of accommodation to suit all budgets around the coast of Antigua, from large scale all-inclusive resorts to privately owned B&B’s. The interior of the island is flat, dry and barren and of little interest to tourists.

If you want easy access to cafes, restaurants, bars etc, the best location is around English Harbour in the south.

I stayed at Villa Touloulou, which offers nice apartments on a hillside overlooking English Harbour – highly recommended. I booked this on booking.com

The capital, St. Johns, is not too attractive but is a good location for those without their own transport.

Eating Out

The national dish of Antigua is fungie (pronounced “foon-jee”), it’s a dish that’s similar to Italian Polenta, but made from cornmeal.

As with the other Anglo-Caribbean Islands, Chinese and Indian cuisine is also available. Jamaican jerk is also popular on the island and a great place to try this is at one of the nightly food stands at English Harbour.

The charming Hemingway’s Caribbean Cafe in St. Johns.

A wonderful dining option in downtown St. Johns is Hemingway’s Caribbean Cafe which is located upstairs in a charming colonial-era wooden building on St. Mays street (opposite Heritage quay). I like to dine outside on the breezy verandah which overlooks the hustle and bustle below. The menu features Caribbean and International dishes and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Especially recommended are the freshly squeezed local juices – my favourite is Sour sop.

One of my favourite restaurants for either breakfast, lunch or dinner is Rum Baba. This Mediterranean bistro is located opposite the entrance to Falmouth Harbour Marina. The food here is exceptional but everyone knows it so you need to book early to reserve one of the few precious tables.

Antigua Black Pineapples

Said to be the sweetest pineapples in the world. It’s believed the native Arawak Indians brought the first pineapples to Antigua from South America more than 1,000 years ago. Over the years these pineapples adopted a distinctive flavour from Antigua’s unique environment, a combination of the soil, not too much rainfall and lots of sunshine.

You can find these ‘sweeties’ at road-side stands around Carlisle bay or in the central market in St. Johns.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Antigua & Barbuda – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

All flights to Antigua & Barbuda arrive at V. C. Bird International Airport, which is located 8-km northeast of St. Johns. The airport was originally built as a US Air Force base. A brand new, modern terminal (with 4 air bridges) opened in August 2015.

This airport serves as a base for LIAT – an airline with a terrible service record but unfortunately a monopoly on many regional routes.

The following airlines provide international connections:

Air Canada – services to Toronto (Pearson)
Alitalia Charter: – services to Milan–Malpensa
American Airlines – services to Miami, New York (JFK)
Blue Panorama Charter: – services to Milan–Malpensa (resumes 13 July 2016)
British Airways – services to London (Gatwick), Turks & Caicos (Providenciales), Saint Kitts, Tobago
Caribbean Airlines – services to Kingston, Port of Spain
JetBlue Airways – services to New York (JFK)
LIAT – services to Anguilla, Barbados, Dominica (Douglas/Charles), Pointe-à-Pitre, Port of Spain, San Juan, St. Croix, Santo Domingo, St. Kitts, St. Lucia (Vigie), St. Maarten, St. Thomas, St. Vincent, Tortola
PAWA Dominicana – services to Santo Domingo, St. Maarten
United Airlines – services to Newark
Virgin Atlantic – services to London (Gatwick)
WestJet – services to Toronto (Pearson)

By Sea

There is one international ferry service currently operating between Antigua and neighbouring Montserrat. For schedules and fares you should check the Jenny Tours website.

The only other way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship. The marina at Nelson’s Dockyard is a haven for yachts, with regular sailing events being scheduled throughout the year.

Cruise ships arrive at the port in St. Johns.

Getting Around

Antigua Travel Guide: Abandoned Vehicle Antigua.

Not all transport options on Antigua are reliable.

Ferry

There is a daily ferry service, which connects Antigua (St. John’s) with Barbuda. The crossing time is 90 minutes. Check the Barbuda Express website for schedules and fares.

Bus

The public transportation system in Antigua is made up of privately owned buses (mostly mini buses). Most of these start from St. John’s from either the East Bus Station or the West Bus Station. You can view the bus routes here.

Taxi

Taxis are also available.

Rental Car

The license plate of my Antigua rental car.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. As with other Anglo-Caribbean countries, the government of Antigua raises revenue by requiring anyone hiring a car to hold a temporary driving permit. This can be purchased at the car rental agency.

As with other Anglo-Caribbean islands, road signage is almost non-existent. Best to always stop and ask the locals for directions – a great way to get to know everyone on the island.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram:

taste2travel

Guadeloupe Travel Guide

9 years ago

Cascade aux Ecrevisses at the Guadeloupe National Park.

Guadeloupe Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Guadeloupe Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Resembling a butterfly, Guadeloupe is comprised of two very different islands, separated by a narrow channel – the Salée River. To the west (left wing) lies Basse-Terre – a mountainous, volcanic island. To the east (right wing) lies Grande-Terre – a flat piece of raised limestone sea bed.

Guadeloupe National Park.

Part of the Lesser Antilles, Guadeloupe is located north of Dominica, south of Antigua & Barbuda and south-east of Montserrat. A regular ferry service connects Guadeloupe to Dominica, Martinique and St. Lucia. For more on this, see the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

Location

As with Martinique to the south, Guadeloupe is an overseas department of France and if you are arriving from one of the neighbouring Anglo-Caribbean islands you will notice a big difference in the standard of living – all thanks to generous French subsidies.

History

Like neighbouring islands, the original settlers on Guadeloupe were the native Arawak Indians, who arrived from modern day Venezuela. They were eventually replaced by the more aggressive Carib Indians.

Christopher Columbus made landfall here on his second voyage to the Americas in November 1493. He named the island Santa María de Guadalupe de Extremadura, after the image of the Virgin Mary venerated at the Spanish monastery in Guadalupe, a monastery he had once visited. As with other neighbouring islands, the Caribs were strong defenders of their land so the Spanish never settled on the island.

However in 1635, French explorers landed on the island and decided it would be a good place to grow tobacco. A French trading company sent a small army of men (550) to the island to wage battle against the Carib Indians. The war lasted 3 years but eventually the French gained control of the island.

In addition to tobacco, sugar plantations were also established. In its heyday, Guadeloupe produced more sugar than all the British islands combined. Slave labour was imported from West Africa to work on the plantations. The population of Guadeloupe today is 410,335, mainly comprised of descendants of the slaves. After slavery was abolished, indentured labourers were imported from India.

At one stage Britain held control of the island but traded it for Canada during the Treaty of Paris.

Cactus on Basse-Terre.

Today tourism is a key industry, with 83% of tourists being French. English is not widely spoken on the island, so a little français speaking ability is useful.

Sightseeing

Around Basse-Terre

Deshaies

Located on the north-west coast of Basse-Terre, Deshaies is home to some fine sandy beaches, including Leroux beach, Petit Anse and Grand Anse.

Grand Anse provides a magnificent stretch of golden sand, gorgeous water and shady palm trees. Parking on the weekend can be a nightmare.

Pointe-Noire

Cocoa tree at La Maison du Cacao.

On the highway in Pointe-Noire you will find La Maison du Cacao. Here you can walk around a small trail where you learn about the history of cacao. At the end of the trail is a visitor’s centre where enthusiastic guides provide a presentation (in French) on cacao and the chocolate making process. During the presentation you get to try different types of chocolate and tropical fruits.

Cacao beans at the Maison du Cacao.

Pigeon Island

Pigeon Island is a gem! So much so, it has been designated the Cousteau Marine Park and a bust of the famous commander has been installed in a Coral Garden at a depth of 12-m. It is considered one of the best dive sites in the Caribbean.

The coral reef and fauna are in excellent condition and the sea life is abundant. There are impressive slopes on either side of the island which drop down to 40-60 metres. Another added bonus is the close proximity to the mainland – a 5-minute boat ride away.

There are plenty of dive operators located around adjacent Malendure Beach. I did a dive with Les Heures Saines (English spoken), who I would recommend.

Guadeloupe National Park

Cascade aux Ecrevisses are a highlight of the Guadeloupe National Park.

A highlight of Basse-terre, the Guadeloupe National Park is heaven for those who like to hike. The park occupies a huge chunk of the centre of this mountainous island and can be easily accessed via the islands’ main traverse road (route D23).

A nice hike is to the Cascade aux Ecrevisses, which can be reached via a short hiking trail from the main road. There is a visitors centre at the trail-head, which provides information about the flora and fauna of the park.

Walking trails are clearly marked but you should ensure you are wearing proper footwear – not a place for your Havaianas. The swimming here is refreshing – a great place to relax and cool off.

Vieux Habitants

Coffee beans for sale at Cafe Chaulet, Basse-Terre.

If you are passing through the town of Vieux Habitants and are in need of a caffeine fix, you could do worse than stop by Cafe Chaulet.

Here you can visit a small museum, which provides a history of coffee production on the island. You can taste their coffee (very nice) but there is a charge for this (not very nice). There is a gift shop selling all types of over-priced souvenirs and of course you can purchase their coffee.

Overall this place is a tourist trap and not worth going out of your way for but if you are passing through it’s worth 5-minutes of your time.

Around Grande-Terre

Unlike neighbouring Basse-Terre, Grande-Terre (which, despite its name, is actually smaller than Basse-Terre) is a huge slab of raised limestone sea floor. As such it is flatter and offers lots of powdery white sandy beaches, especially along the south coast.

St. Anne

Located on the south coast, St. Anne beach is absolutely wonderful, however everyone on the island knows this so it can get crowded. Parking can be difficult but worth the effort. You will be rewarded with powdery white sand and turquoise swimming water. There are lots of cafes and restaurants where you can refuel.

Accommodation

Deluxe tree-house accommodation at Habitation Getz.

You will find accommodation options scattered around both islands. Depending on the type of holiday you desire, you should base yourself either on Basse-Terre (nature, hiking, snorkeling, diving, beaches) or Grande-Terre (beaches).

I stayed in a tree house at Habitation Getz, located near the town of Vieux Habitants on the west coast of Basse-Terre. This charming, historic guest house offers accommodation in three different deluxe tree houses or the main house.

There are lots of accommodation options for all budgets available on booking.com

Eating Out

The cuisine of Guadeloupe features a mix of Creole and French influences. The island has a reputation for serving some of the best food in the Caribbean.

You will find plenty of restaurants specialising in French-Creole cuisine and international dishes. Seafood is popular and appears on most menus along with curry dishes.

Like the neighbouring Anglo-islands, Calaloo soup (a leafy vegetable similar to spinach) is a local favourite as a starter.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Guadeloupe – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

International flights arrive at the busy Pointe-à-Pitre International Airport, located 3-km north-east of Pointe-à-Pitre. The airport is the main hub for Air Caraïbes and Air Antilles Express.

The following airlines provide international connections:

Air Antilles Express – services to Antigua, Dominica (Douglas–Charles), Dominican Republic (Santo Domingo) Martinique, Puerto Rico, Saint Barthélemy, Sint Maarten
Air Canada – services to Montréal (Trudeau)
Air Caraïbes – services to Dominican Republic (Santo Domingo) Martinique, Paris (Orly), Saint Lucia (Vigie), Saint Martin, Sint Maarten
Air France – services to French Guiana, Martinique, Miami, Paris (Orly), Haiti (Port-au-Prince)
American Airlines – services to Miami
American Eagle – services to Miami
Corsair International – services to Paris (Orly)
Cubana De Aviacion – services to La Havana
LIAT – services to Antigua, Barbados, Dominica (Douglas–Charles)
Seaborne Airlines – services to Puerto Rico
Winair – services to Dominica (Douglas–Charles)
XL Airways – services to Paris (Charles de Gaulle)

By Sea

There is a scheduled ferry service connecting Guadeloupe with Dominica, Martinique and St. Lucia. The ferry terminal is located in downtown Pointe-à-Pitre. The service is operated by the Guadeloupe based Express-des-Iles. Check their website for schedules and fares.

Getting Around

With almost 2,000-km of roads, the road network on Guadeloupe is extensive and well-maintained with multi-lane freeways on both Basse-terre and Grande-terre. Roads are well signed so you’ll never get lost.

There is a comprehensive bus network on the island, with most routes originating from Pointe-à-Pitre.

Taxis are also available.

The best option for exploring the two islands is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. Unlike the neighbouring Anglo-islands, car rental on Guadeloupe is cheap. All of the international agents have offices at the airport and they offer large fleets of new French cars. Most cars on the island are manual – not automatic. Unlike the Anglo-islands, the French government does not raise revenue by forcing tourists to purchase a local driver’s license.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram:

taste2travel

Dominica Travel Guide

9 years ago

Dominica Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Dominica Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Known as the “Nature Island,” Dominica lies at the top of the Windward Islands, south of Guadeloupe and north of Martinique. Although a short boat ride away, Dominica is a world away from its modern French neighbours. It’s far less developed, less commercialised and less modern. Everything here is on a much smaller scale and things happen at a much slower pace.

Cruising along the calm and enchanting waters of the India river, near Portsmouth, Dominica.

The island is a nature lover’s paradise. If hiking, scuba diving, snorkeling or if a natural, unspoiled landscape appeals to you, then you will enjoy Dominica. Although Dominica is in the Caribbean, it is not considered a resort island. If you are looking for all-inclusive resorts on sandy beaches this island is not for you.

A Yellow-Crowned Night Heron on the India River.

Location

The island is 47-km long and 26-km wide, with paved roads providing access to most parts of the island. The Waitukubuli National Trail is a 184-km hiking trail, which runs the length of the island. You can hike the trail in segments or spend two weeks walking the entire length.

Like neighbouring St. Lucia, Dominica is a volcanic island. Due to its volcanic landscape, the island receives a huge amount of annual rainfall (100-cm on the coast with up to 760-cm in the mountainous interior). All of this rainfall sustains lush rainforests and feeds the many rivers on the island.

Indian River reflections, Dominica.

History

Traditional Kalinago busts carved from palm stumps.

The original settlers on the island were the native Arawak Indians, who arrived from modern day Venezuela. They were eventually replaced by the Carib Indians (aka Kalinago). The Caribs called the island Waitikubuli, which means ‘tall is her body’.

On his 2nd voyage to the Americas, Christopher Columbus made landfall on the island on a Sunday, so he called the island Doménica (Sunday in Italian). However, due to the lack of gold and strong resistance from the Caribs, the Spanish didn’t settle on the island.

The abandoned Methodist Church at Hampstead, Dominica.

Eventually French settlers from neighbouring Guadeloupe and Martinique started settlements on the island. The French then formerly claimed the island in 1727. The French created plantations on the island and imported slaves from West Africa as a labour source. Most of the population today are descendants from the former slaves.

The flag of Dominica.

The British were handed possession of the island in 1763 as part of the Treaty of Paris. They maintained ownership until independence was granted in 1978.

A local boy enjoying a swim in the Soufriere Sulphur Springs.

Sightseeing

The welcome sign at Roseau Port, Dominica.

Roseau

An unusual site in the Botanical gardens - a school bus crushed by an African baobab tree during hurricane David in 1979.

An unusual site in the Botanical gardens – an empty school bus crushed by an African baobab tree during hurricane David in 1979.

Roseau is the capital and largest city (population: 17,000) of Dominica. The city was established by the French and was designed based on examples of towns in France, where streets extended from a central point – what is today the old market.

The Victorian-era water fountain which stands in the middle of Dawbiney market square in downtown Roseau.

The design of the city can be confusing, however the city is small and compact and most sites can be covered in one day on foot.

Hand-painted billboard in Roseau.

Sites of interest include:

Old Market – The centre of everything in Roseau for more than 300 years. It was formerly used as a slave market, farmers market, public execution place but today is home to souvenir stalls.
Public Market – This bustling market is a great place to buy local produce and grab a bowl of goat stew.

A typical wooden building in downtown Roseau, Dominica.

Botanical Gardens – Set on 40 acres of land a short walk from downtown, the gardens include an aviary housing rare Jaco and Sisserou parrots.
Dominica Museum – Located on the waterfront, this small museum provides an overview of Dominican history and culture.
Morne Bruce – This hillside enclave is the home of the president and offers panoramic views of Roseau and the Caribbean sea. Morne Bruce can be reached via car or the 1/2 mile “Jack’s Walk” trail, located behind the parrot aviary in the Botanical Gardens.

Sunset at Roseau, the capital of Dominica.

For something different (and for the best Margaritas on the island), Zam Zam Mexican Restaurant is hard to beat. It’s located on the waterfront south of Roseau.

The flag of Dominica flying in Roseau.

Around the Island

Portsmouth

A view across to Portsmouth from Fort Shirley, Dominica.

The second largest town on Dominica. Portsmouth is located north of Roseau on the leeward (west) coast. Portsmouth is made more lively due to the presence of hundreds of American students who study at the Ross University School of Medicine.

There are several sites to visit, these include:

- Cabrits National Park – Located on a peninsula north of Portsmouth, this is the site of Fort Shirley, an 18th-century British garrison. There are panoramic views of Portsmouth from the fort.
A male purple-throated Carib hummingbird at the India river.
- Indian River – Located south of Portsmouth, the Indian River is a shady mangrove-lined waterway. The majestic, eerie-looking and impressively buttressed Bwa Mang trees stand sentinel over parts of the river banks. It’s all very serene and at times feels haunted. It was captivating enough for the producers of “Pirates of the Caribbean – Dead Man’s Chest“. Several scenes were filmed on the river and today the remaining sets can be visited. Apart from movie sets you can expect to see a variety of birds such as egrets, hummingbirds etc. Rowers can be hired from the bridge on the main road for 2 hour excursions on the river.

Bwa Mang trees on the Indian river

A good place to grab lunch in Portsmouth is from one of the snackettes on “Eat Street“, located alongside the Ross University School of Medicine Campus.

Trafalgar Falls

The majestic Trafalgar Falls.

These twins falls are located on the eastern edge of Morne Trois Pitons National Park and are worth a visit. The tallest of the falls – the Father, is a hot water fall. The lower, shorter falls – the Mother, is a cold water fall. They can be accessed via a 600-m walk along a forested trail. At the base of the falls there are swimming holes where you can alternate between hot and cold pools.

The hot (left) and cold (right) falls at Trafalgar falls, Dominica.

Wotten Waven Hot Springs

Located in the hills a short drive east of Roseau, the town of Wotten Waven is home to several sulphur springs.

I visited, and would recommend, the facilities at Ti Kwen Glo Cho hot springs. Here you’ll find a variety of different size pools, bathtubs fed by warm spring water and a short walking trail to a nearby waterfall. It’s all set in a lush rain forest setting. On your way out you can purchase a bottle of snake oil from the friendly reception staff.

Ti Kwen Glo Cho hot spring at Wotten Waven.

Emerald Pool

The Emerald pool is a relaxed natural pool with a rocky ledge and a small waterfall in the middle of a serene rainforest.

The Emerald Pool takes its name from its lush green setting at the base of a 12-m waterfall. The pool is reached via a 10 minute hike through a rain forest. The pool is deep enough for swimming, providing a great place to cool off on a hot day.

Dominican tree lizard – or ‘Zandoli’ at the Emerald Pool, Dominica.

Champagne Reef

A special attraction for snorkelers and divers is Champagne reef. The water is crystal clear, with an abundance of marine life with the added attraction of constant bubbles being provided from an underwater spring. The reef is located south of Roseau. Magic!

Scott’s Head

Located at the southern end of the island, Scott’s Head is a picturesque fishing village with a pebble beach. There are beautiful panoramic views of the Caribbean sea and the Atlantic ocean from the headland.

Fishing boats at Scott’s Head.

Carib Territory

A traditional Kalinago carving, Dominica.

Traditional Kalinago busts carved from palm stumps.Located on the East coast is the Carib territory, a reserve which was established in 1903 by the British colonial authorities. The reserve (the only one of its kind in the Caribbean) was established for the indigenous Carib people, also known as the Kalinago, who inhabited Dominica prior to European colonisation and settlement. Currently there are about 3,000 Kalinago living in the reserve, residents share ownership of all the land within the reserve.

There are 8 hamlets in the reserve and a model village (Kalinago Barana Auté), which has been created to provide tourists with an insight into the Kalinago culture. Enthusiastic guides are available for guided visits.

Even if you miss the ‘welcome’ signs you will know when you have entered the territory from the abundance of native craft shops lining the main road.

Calibishe

Cow grazing in an abandoned sugar mill in Hampstead.

Located on the north-east coast is this beach side town, which provides a good base for exploring this part of the island. There are lots of accommodation options and restaurants.

A panoramic view of the east coast of Dominica, north of Calibishe.

I stayed up on the hill at the Jacoway Inn , which is owned by an enthusiastic Canadian lady (Carol Ann) and her Dominican husband. They offer two studio apartments and a one-bedroom bungalow. The breakfast is especially good with many homemade items on offer.

Accommodation

There are no big name international hotel chains on Dominica. The best hotel in Roseau, and one I would recommend, is the Fort Young Hotel. It was originally built in 1699 by the British as a fort. Located downtown, directly on the waterfront, this is a local institution full of charm. Good rates are available on booking.com

Elsewhere on the island, there are loads of accommodation options, mainly privately owned guest houses and B&B’s.

Eating Out

A speciality on Dominica are the homemade spiced rums, some of which are very political!

The Creole and British influenced cuisine of Dominica is very different to the cuisine found on the neighbouring French islands of Martinique or Guadeloupe.

A moist tropical climate and rich volcanic soil ensure abundant agriculture on the island. Dominica is the vegetable garden of the Antilles, exporting it’s produce to neighbouring islands. Markets on the island are a treat to visit, offering an abundance of interesting fruits and vegetables, all of which can be found on local menus.

Fishing is still an important industry so seafood is plentiful.

Visa Requirements

Visitors do not require visas to enter Dominica, unless they are nationals of Haiti or Dominican Republic.

Getting There

Boats in Roseau port, Dominica.

By Air

There are two airports on Dominica – the main airport, Douglas-Charles (formerly Melville Hall), located 3-km north of the town of Marigot on the east coast and the smaller Canefield airport, located 5-km north of Roseau.

Canefield Airport – this airport currently has no scheduled services.

Douglas-Charles Airport – since services to Canefield airport ceased, this is the only airport in operation on the island.

Services include:

Air Antilles Express – services to Martinique, Guadeloupe
Air Sunshine – services to Sint Maarten, Puerto Rico, Anguilla, Nevis, Tortola, Virgin Gorda
BVI Airways – services to Sint Maarten
LIAT – services to Antigua, Barbados, Guadeloupe, Saint Lucia, Puerto Rico, Sint Maarten
Seaborne Airlines – services to Puerto Rico
Winair – Services to Guadeloupe, Sint Maarten

By Sea

A cruise ship docked at Roseau.

There is a scheduled ferry service connecting Dominica with Martinique, St. Lucia and Guadeloupe. Ferries depart from the port in Roseau. The service is operated by the Guadeloupe based Express-des-Iles. Check their website for schedules and fares.

Cruise ships dock in Roseau, directly in front of the Fort Young hotel.

Getting Around

A 4WD rental car is the best choice for Dominica’s rough roads.

It is easy to get around Dominica. Taxi services are readily available, as are small buses or vans that travel the highways, picking up and dropping off passengers on request.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car. I used, and would recommend, Courtesy Car Rentals, who have an office in Roseau and at the airport.

Like other Anglo-Caribbean islands, the government of Dominica raises revenue from tourists by requiring all drivers to purchase a local driver’s license. This can be done through the rental agency.

The main roads on the island are paved but are often steep, thin, and twisted. The Chinese-built highway running north along the coast from Roseau to Portsmouth is in excellent condition. Likewise, the EU-built road, which traverses the island from Roseau to Marigot is also in excellent condition. On all other roads caution needs to be exercised as there are many potholes, steep embankments without protective sidings and tight, unmarked bends.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram:

taste2travel

Martinique Travel Guide

9 years ago

The very punk-looking Antillean Crested Hummingbird.

Martinique Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Martinique Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Martinique is an overseas department of France and if you are arriving from one of the neighbouring Anglo-Caribbean islands you will notice a big difference in the standard of living – all thanks to generous French subsidies. The island has no natural resources and most of its economy is devoted to sugar production so subsidies are critical and hence calls for independence never gain traction.

The Madeira Hummingbird is a common sight on Martinique.

Unlike the Anglo-islands, the French provide a regular ferry service, which connects Martinique to its neighbours and Guadeloupe – for more on this, see the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

Martinique is the 3rd largest island in the Lesser Antilles after Trinidad and Guadeloupe. The island is 70 km in length and 30 km wide and getting around is made easy thanks to investments by the French government in infrastructure and public transportation.

Location

Part of the Lesser Antilles, Martinique is located in the Caribbean sea, north of St. Lucia and south of Dominica.

Like its neighbours, Martinique is a volcanic island, lying along the fault-line where the North America plate slides beneath the Caribbean plate. The highest point is Mont Pelée (1,400m), an active volcano, which last erupted in 1902, destroying the capital of St. Pierre and killing 28,000 people in 2 minutes. Today the islands capital is Fort-de-France, which is out of reach of the destructive forces of Mont Pelée.

A Madeira Hummingbird on Martinique.

Culturally the island is very different to its neighbours, reflecting a distinctive blend of French and West Indian cultures.

Being a department of France, Martinique is an outpost of the European Union, along with neighbouring Guadeloupe and French Guiana in South America. Its currency is the Euro. All political decisions affecting the island are made thousands of miles away in Paris. In the past protests have erupted over the rising cost of living as most goods cost more on the island than on the mainland.

Madeira Hummingbird on Martinique.

History

The island was originally inhabited by native Arawak, then Carib then the more aggressive Taino Indians. Columbus charted the island in 1493 but Spain had little interest in it.

A Carib Beer advertisement on Martinique.

The French arrived in 1635 after being expelled from St. Kitts by the British and settled the island. The French have maintained possession since that time except for three short periods when it was under British occupation. The island was used primarily for the production of sugar.

The very punk-looking Antillean Crested Hummingbird.

Martinique has a population of around 400,000, with an additional 260,000 Martiniquais living in mainland France. Most of the population is descended from African slaves brought to work on sugar plantations during the colonial era. Both French and Creole are widely spoken. Today tourism is a key industry.

Sightseeing

Fort-de-France

The ‘Hotel de Ville’ (Town Hall) in Fort-de-France.

Fort-de-France is the capital and largest city (population: 90,000) of Martinique. The old town is small and compact and most sites can be covered on foot in one day.

Sites include:

Place de la Savane – This is a park where you will find cafes and restaurants and a vandalised (beheaded) statue of island native Joséphine de Beauharnais, first wife of Napoleon Bonaparte. It was vandalised in the 1990’s by individuals who blamed her for supporting the re-establishment of slavery on the island. Her parents were plantation owners.

A vandalised statue of Martinique-born Empress Josephine, the wife of Napoleon Bonaparte

Schoelcher Library – Designed by Gustave Eiffel, the entire library was first built in France then shipped piece by piece to Martinique as a monument to Victor Schoelcher the French abolitionist writer.

The Schoelcher Library in Fort-de-France, designed by Gustav Eiffel.

St. Louis Cathedral – Another Gustave Eiffel design, this is the 7th church to occupy the site, the previous six churches were destroyed by either fire, earthquakes or hurricanes. Eiffel designed the church with an iron frame for robustness.

St. Louis cathedral, Fort-de-France.

The ferry terminal for the Express-des-Iles ferry (services to St. Lucia, Dominica and Guadeloupe) is located downtown. For more on this, see the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

Around the Island

St. Pierre

A ruined building in St. Pierre displays photos of some of the victims of the volcanic eruption which destroyed the former capital.

The site of the original French settlement and once known as the “Paris of the Caribbean”, the former capital – St. Pierre – was destroyed in minutes on the 8th of May 1902 when nearby Mont Pelée erupted, killing 28,000 people.

After the eruption refugees from Martinique fled to neighouring Dominica, where many remained. Shortly after the devastation, the capital was relocated south to Fort-de-France.

An abandoned building in St. Pierre, the former capital which was destroyed by a volcanic eruption.

Today the town is back to life but many buildings have been kept untouched since the eruption as a historical reminder. All the sites can be covered on foot in a couple of hours.

Sites worth visiting include the Volcano museum, the ruins of the old theatre and the adjacent jail cell which, on the morning of the explosion, contained one prisoner (a local drunk) who was protected from the eruption by the thick stone walls and the poor ventilation of his dungeon-like cell. He was one of just 3 survivors. He was later pardoned for his crimes and then toured the United States as an act with the Barnum & Bailey circus.

Route des Rhums

From the nation who gave the world the ‘Route de Vin‘ comes the ‘Route des Rhums‘.

In the early 19th century, plantation owners, who were facing a decline in the global sugar market, turned to rum production as a way of supplementing their income.

Today there are no fewer than 10 rum distilleries on Martinique so it was fitting that the tourist office created the Route des Rhums.

An especially fine drop – Trois Rivieres Rum.

The distilleries can be found all over the island so you are never far from your next tasting. They are educational and informative. I recommend visiting La Mauny and Trois Rivières, both located in the south of the island.

Not to be out-done, La Mauny rum is also very quaffable.

Martinique Beaches

Grand Anse des Salines beach.

There are many fine beaches in the south-west and at the southern end of the island.

The beach at Les Anses-d’Arlet offers good swimming and a reef 50 m offshore offers fantastic snorkeling. The town offers bars, cafes, restaurants and a popular French bakery.

Nearby Les Anses-d’Arlet is the smaller beach of Anse Dufour, which also offers good snorkeling. There are many fine dining options around the beach.

At the southern tip of the island is the remote but beautifully sweeping Grand Anse Des Salines. At the time of my visit the powdery white sand was covered in seaweed from recent storms.

Accommodation

Martinique is full of accommodation options. Many French expats have relocated to the island from the mainland and have established guest houses and B&B accommodation.

A highly recommended downtown option is Hotel Fort Savane, centrally located across the road from La Savane and a short walk from the ferry terminal – a good place to stay if you have an early departure the next day.

Being a French territory blessed with beautiful beaches, there is the ubiquitous Club Med – plus many other fine resorts.

Peak season is from December to April. Best to book in advance using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

Market produce at Sainte-Anne market.

Being French you can be sure the culinary offerings on Martinique would be worth a trip on their own. Many chefs have relocated from France and have established fine dining restaurants.

The cuisine of Martinique is a hybrid, mixing elements of African, French, Carib Amerindian and South Asian traditions.

One of its most famous dishes is the Colombo curry – a unique curry of chicken, meat or fish with vegetables, spiced with a distinctive Marsala of Tamil origins, tamarind and coconut milk or rum. I first tried this dish in French Guiana, it’s a favourite meal throughout the French Caribbean.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Martinique – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

Martinique’s airport is Martinique Aimé Césaire International Airport. Compared to the quiet, smaller, provisional airports on the neighbouring Anglo-islands, Martinique airport is a large, modern, busy terminal.

At the neighbouring Anglo-island airports, you are subjected to painfully slow immigration queues, however formalities on Martinique are fast and painless. If you hold a European passport you can expect to sail through immigration without stopping to have your passport stamped. Other passport holders will need to get their passports stamped but this takes just a few seconds. Unlike other islands, there is no arrival card to be completed.

The following airlines provide services to/ from Martinique:

Air Antilles Express – services to Dominica, Dominican Republic, Guadeloupe, Puerto Rico, Saint Lucia (Vigie)
Air Canada – services to Montreal (Trudeau)
Air Caraïbes – services to Paris (Orly), Guadeloupe, Dominican Republic, Saint Martin, Saint Lucia (Vigie)
Air France – services to French Guiana, Miami, Paris (Orly), Guadeloupe, Haiti (Port-au-Prince)
American Eagle – service to Miami
Condor (seasonal) – service to Frankfurt
Corsair International – service to Paris (Orly)
Cubana de Aviación – service to Havana
Gol Transportes Aéreos (seasonal) – service to São Paulo
LIAT – service to Barbados, Saint Lucia (Vigie)
Meridiana (seasonal) – service to Milan (Malpensa)
Norwegian Air Shuttle (seasonal) – service to Baltimore, Boston, New York (JFK)
Seaborne Airlines – service to Puerto Rico
XL Airways – service to Paris (Charles de Gaulle)

By Sea

There is a scheduled ferry service connecting Martinique with St. Lucia, Dominica and Guadeloupe. The ferry terminal is located in downtown Fort-de-France. The service is operated by the Guadeloupe based Express-des-Iles. Check their website for schedules and fares.

Getting Around

The road network on Martinique is extensive and well-maintained, with freeways in the area around Fort-de-France. Compared to the neighbouring Anglo-islands, the roads on Martinique are in excellent condition with lots of signage so you’ll never get lost.

There is a comprehensive bus network on the island, with most routes originating at the busy terminal in Fort-de-France.

Taxis are also available.

The best option for exploring this vast island is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. Unlike the neighbouring Anglo-islands, car rental on Martinique is cheap. All of the international agents have offices at the airport and they offer large fleets of French cars. Most cars on the island are manual – not automatic.

Unlike the Anglo-islands, the French government does not raise revenue by forcing tourists to purchase a local drivers license.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram:

taste2travel

Saint Lucia Travel Guide

9 years ago

Ideal for swimming and snorkeling, picturesque Sugar Beach is situated between the Pitons.

Saint Lucia Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Saint Lucia Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Saint Lucia is part of the Lesser Antilles, located northeast of St. Vincent and south of Martinique. Due to its close proximity to Martinique the French have had, historically, a huge influence on this former British colony. The French named the island St. Lucia after Lucia of Syracuse.

Location

Located in the Eastern Caribbean, Saint Lucia is the second largest island in the Windward group in the Lesser Antilles. The island is located about 39 km (24 mi) south of Martinique and some 34 km (21 mi) northeast of Saint Vincent.

St. Lucia is a volcanic island and hence more mountainous than most Caribbean islands. The most famous natural landmarks are the Pitons (Gros Piton and Petit Piton), twin volcanic plugs located south of the town of Soufrière. Saint Lucia is also home to a drive-in volcano.

History

The French were the first Europeans to settle the island in 1660 after signing a treaty with the native Carib Indians. The British first took control of the island in 1663 but subsequent wars with France resulted in frequent changes of ownership. The French ruled the island on seven different occasions. The British took definite control in 1814. The island achieved independence from Britain in 1979.

The symbol of St. Lucia, the iconic ‘Pitons’ are twin volcanic plugs.

During the colonial period both the British and the French used the island as a sugar plantation, with slaves being imported from Africa to work the plantations. Today 70% of the islands’ population are Afro-Caribbean – descendants of the former slaves. The island has a population of 174,000.

Currency

The Eastern Caribbean dollar.

Since 1965, the official currency of St. Lucia has been the Eastern Caribbean dollar (EC$), which trades under the international currency code of XCD. Since 1976, the EC$ has been pegged to the US dollar at the rate of US$1 = EC$2.70.

Flag

Saint Lucia Flag

The flag of Saint Lucia consists of a cerulean blue field charged with a yellow triangle which fronts a white-edged black isosceles triangle.

The blue represents the sky and the sea, specifically the Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea which surround the country. The black and white allude to the harmonious relationship between the black and white races, while the yellow symbolises ‘sunshine’. The triangles represent the Pitons, the twin volcanic cones which are the symbol of St. Lucia.

Sightseeing

Castries

A view of the capital, Castries, from Morne Fortune.

Castries is the capital and largest city (population: 60,000) of Saint Lucia – home to more than 30% of the islands’ population.

The city is built on reclaimed land and features a sheltered harbour from which ferries depart regularly for neighbouring Martinique – for more information on the ferry service see the ‘Getting There‘ section below. Visiting cruise ships dock in Castries harbour.

The downtown market is a great place to shop for souvenirs and for fresh local produce. There are very few sites of interest in Castries, it’s a nice enough place to spend a couple of hours strolling.

A nice place to eat is the Pink Plantation House, located on Morne Fortune south of Castries. The food and ambiance are well worth the drive and along the way you will have panoramic views of Castries.

Around the Island

Gros Islet

View of the north coast of St. Lucia from Fort Rodney.

This inlet at the northern end of the island is today a big tourist playground but in former times was the setting for many of the battles between the British and French.

The main attraction is Pigeon Island National Park. Here you can visit the ruins of Fort Rodney and the various military buildings, which were used during the battles between the French and the British. From the fort, there are spectacular views of the north-west coast and (on a clear day) neighbouring Martinique.

Located within the park, you will find a nice beach-side restaurant for lunch and a good swimming beach. Snorkeling trips stop by here so bring your snorkel and mask.

A boat at Rodney Bay marina, flying all the flags of the Caribbean and North America.

On the mainland side of the inlet, Rodney Bay Marina offers many facilities including cafes, bars, restaurants and a supermarket.

Marigot Bay

Boats at Marigot Bay.

Marigot Bay is located on the Caribbean (west) coast, a short drive south of Castries. The harbour is surrounded by steep hills, which offer magnificent views. The hills are now home to many guest houses and this is where I stayed while on the island. The inner part of the harbour provides a safe haven during hurricanes.

There is good snorkeling in the bay and an opportunity to see seahorses on the undersea break-wall – but you have to look hard for these perfectly camouflaged, tiny sea creatures. Dive trips can be organised from the marina.

Soufrière

View of Soufrière with the twin Pitons.

This town of 8,000 was the original capital of St. Lucia and was founded by the French who managed plantations in the surrounding area.

South of Soufrière are the Pitons – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Gros Piton (771m) and Petit Piton (743m) are two volcanic plugs, which plunge into the Caribbean sea. The snorkeling off the beaches around the base of the plugs is incredible.

It’s no secret that St. Lucia is an active volcanic island so it is fitting that the island boasts the worlds only drive-in volcano. Located a short drive south of Soufrière, you literally park your car in the crater.

Walking trails take you past bubbling mud and steaming vents. You should bring your swimmers as you will have the opportunity to take a warm (45 degrees) mud bath, which is apparently medicinal but also lots of messy fun.

Located near the town of Soufrière, Sulphur Springs is the “world’s only drive in volcano”.

A short drive north along the coast from Soufrière will bring you to the remote and beautiful beach of Anse Chastanet. The beach is occupied by a resort but you are welcome to park your car in their car park and use the beach at no cost. There is good snorkeling at the southern end of the beach and a restaurant and bar for refuelling. The access road is very narrow, windy and steep.

South of Soufrière is Sugar beach. This beach is located between the Pitons and provides excellent snorkeling at the northern end. The beach is now occupied by a resort but you can park your car and use the beach for free.

Ideal for swimming and snorkeling, picturesque Sugar Beach is situated between the Pitons.

Just off the highway south of Soufrière is Fond Doux Estate. This is a working cocoa estate with onsite accommodation and a popular restaurant – a good place to stop for lunch.

East Coast

The rugged, wild east coast is less developed than the west coast. The beaches here are exposed to the Atlantic and feature strong currents. You could cover the attractions on the east coast on a day-trip from the west coast.

Accommodation

Saint Lucia Travel Guide: View of Marigot Bay from my guest house

View of Marigot Bay from Marigot Palms guest house.

Accommodation is concentrated on the leeward (Caribbean) side of the island. Many of the best beaches have been sold off to luxury resorts but the beaches are open to the public and are free.

I stayed at the excellent Marigot Palms guest house, which overlooks Marigot Bay. The large rooms are kept spotlessly clean and overlook a beautiful pool and garden all of which offer panoramic views of the bay. The guest house is owned by a friendly, enthusiastic Belgium couple.

Peak season is January to April. Best to book accommodation using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

Like other Anglo-Caribbean islands, the cuisine of St. Lucia has been influenced by its African, Indian and European communities. Curry and Roti are local favourites but have been adapted and modified so they have a distinctly Caribbean twist.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for St. Lucia – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

There are two airports on St. Lucia:

Hewanorra International Airport (HIA), located at the southern end of the island and George F.L. Charles Airport, located next to Castries. The drive between HIA and Castries takes about an hour and a half.

Hewanorra International Airport – most international flights arrive at HIA. The following airlines provide services from here:

American Airlines – services to Miami, Charlotte & Philadelphia
Delta Airlines – services to Atlanta
Air Canada – services to Toronto & Montreal
Virgin Atlantic – services to London (Gatwick) and Trinidad
British Airways – services to London (Gatwick) and Trinidad
West Jet – services to Toronto
Jet Blue – services to New York
Air Transat – services to Toronto

George F.L. Charles Airport – this small, beach-side airport handles mostly regional flights. The following airlines provide services from here:

LIAT – services to Barbados, Antigua, Trinidad and St. Vincent
Caribbean Airlines – services to Trinidad
Air Antilles Express – services to Guadeloupe and Martinique
Air Caraibes – services to Guadeloupe and Martinique

By Sea

There is a scheduled ferry service connecting St. Lucia with Martinique (then onto Dominica and Guadeloupe), which is operated by the Guadeloupe based Express-des-Iles. Check their website for schedules and fares.

The only other way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

Getting Around

Mini buses run on designated routes covering most of the island and taxis are available for hire. Buses have green license plates, while taxis have blue plates.

The best option for exploring the island and getting off the beaten track is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. Before you hit the road you will need to purchase a St. Lucia drivers license, which will be issued by the rental company.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram:

taste2travel

Saint Vincent & the Grenadines Travel Guide

9 years ago

Saint Vincent & the Grenadines Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Saint Vincent Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

If you are looking for a chain of stunningly beautiful Caribbean islands surrounded by turquoise waters then St. Vincent and the Grenadines is for you. This is a sailing, diving and snorkeling paradise.

Location

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines is an island group located in the southern portion of the Windward Islands. The country is also known simply as St. Vincent.

The country consists of the main island of Saint Vincent and the northern two-thirds of the Grenadines, which are a chain of smaller islands stretching south from Saint Vincent Island to Grenada.

Saint Lucia (click to view my St. Lucia Travel Guide) lies 34 km (21 mi) north of the main island of St. Vincent while the Grenadian island of Carriacou (click to view my Grenada Travel Guide) lies just a few kilometres south of Union island.

Local boys enjoying the pristine waters on Mayreau Island.

History

The islands were originally settled by Carib Indians who resisted European occupation until the French arrived in 1719 from neighbouring Martinique. Eventually the British took control of the islands, but subsequently lost it again to the French. The British eventually regained control and maintained it until independence in 1979. The island was the last of the Windwards to be granted independence.

The French and British used African slaves to work plantations of sugar, coffee, indigo, tobacco, cotton and cocoa. The descendants of these slaves comprise the majority (66%) of the population today. The total population is just over 100,000 people.

This sandstone tunnel on St. Vincent was carved by slaves.

As with other Anglo Caribbean islands, after slavery ended the British imported indentured labourers from India. Descendants of these labourers make up another portion of the population and today add spice, literally, to the local cuisine.

Currency

The Eastern Caribbean dollar.

The official currency of St. Vincent & the Grenadines is the Eastern Caribbean dollar (EC$), which trades under the international currency code of XCD. Since 1976, the EC$ has been pegged to the US dollar at the rate of US$1 = EC$2.70.

Flag

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines Flag

The flag of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines is a Canadian pale triband (i.e. one where the middle band occupies half the area of the flag) which consists of blue, gold, and green bands, with three green diamonds at the centre.

The blue epitomises the sky and the sea, while the gold represents the colour of the islands’ sand, the year-round sunshine, and the “bright spirit” of the islanders. The green symbolises the country’s plentiful vegetation, as well as the vitality of Vincentians.

The three diamonds evoke the nicknames of Saint Vincent as the “Gems of the Antilles”. Their arrangement in the shape of the letter V is a subtle allusion to the first letter in “Vincent”, while its placement on the marginally lower part of the centre band indicates the geographical positioning of the islands within the Antilles island group.

Sightseeing

Saint Vincent Island

A view of the hilly north-east coast of St. Vincent island.

The main island of Saint Vincent is 26 km long and 15 km wide. The island is rugged and volcanic, the windward side (Atlantic side) is very rocky and steep, while the leeward side (Caribbean side) has more sandy beaches and bays.

Lava flow from La Soufrière volcano.

Saint Vincent’s highest peak is La Soufrière volcano at 1,234 metres. This is prone to erupt from time to time, the last eruption being in 1979.

The capital and largest city, Kingstown (population: 15,500 ) is located on the south side of the island.

Frangipani’s on St. Vincent.

To fully explore the island by car you will need 2-3 days. From Kingstown you have one road along the east coast and one along the west coast. You should allow one full day to explore each side of the island.

Kingstown

View of Kingstown, the capital of St. Vincent and the Grenadines, from Fort Charlotte.

The capital and largest city was originally founded by French settlers in 1722.

Set on a hill on the northern outskirts of the city are the Botanical Gardens. They were established in 1765 by General Robert Melville, Governor of the British Caribbean. Captain Bligh (of the Bounty) brought breadfruit seeds to St. Vincent from Tahiti. This was imported as a food source to feed the slaves.

Today breadfruit is a staple on many Caribbean islands. A descendant of the first tree is in the garden. I would recommend paying for a guided visit. Jeffery, who is both knowledgeable and entertaining will provide information on all the tropical plants in the garden.

A couple of amorous lizards (Anolis) in the Kingstown Botanical garden.

You can also see the elusive St. Vincent parrots, which are kept in enclosures in the garden.

Also worth visiting in the capital is St. George’s Anglican Cathedral, the colourful market and Fort Charlotte (located 200 metres above the coast on the outskirts of town). Kingstown is quiet in the evening with few dining options available.

A Broad-winged hawk, soaring above the east coast of St. Vincent.

From Kingstown you have the option of driving north along the rugged and wild east coast (exposed Atlantic side) where you can see lava flows from La Soufrière volcano.

Alternatively you can drive along the calmer east coast (protected Caribbean side) where you will find better swimming beaches.

Bequia Island

Bequia (pronounced ‘bek-waa‘), meaning ‘island of clouds’ in Arawak, is a charming island and makes for a pleasant day trip from Kingstown.

Port Elizabeth, the gateway to Bequia island.

The island is a favourite retirement location for Americans and Europeans who have opened cafes, restaurants and guest houses but there are enough locals in residence to ensure a Vincentian flavour remains.

Bequia is small enough that you can cover most sites on foot in a day.

Taxis are also available from the port, which is located in the charming main town of Port Elizabeth. This is where you will find shops, restaurants, cafes and accommodation. A short walk from town you will find the family run model boat shops—Sargeant Brothers Model Boat Shop and Mauvin’s Model Boat Shop. Model boat building is a speciality of the island.

For the best views of town, head up the hill to the 18th century Fort Hamilton.

Tobago Cays

Just north of Union Island lie this group of five small cays. The cays are surrounded and protected by a horse-shoe shaped reef. The snorkeling and diving here is stunning, you have to see this to believe it. The water visibility is incredible. There is a huge variety of marine life including turtles, who can be seen feeding on the sea grass in the main lagoon.

The best way to reach the keys is via a boat day-trip from Union island. The trips normally include a lobster lunch on one of the keys, where you can watch sting rays patrolling the shallow waters off the main beach.

Union Island

Union Island is the southern most of the Grenadine islands within the territory of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. The remaining islands in the chain lie in Grenada – a short boat ride to the south.

A kite surfer, taking advantage of a strong breeze on Union island.

The main town and port is Clifton which you can reach from Carriacou (Grenada) via private water taxi or from other islands in the Grenadines by ferry – see the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

Most places on Union island can be covered on foot but taxis are also available from the port. This is a good place to organise a day-trip to nearby Tobago Cays.

A short boat ride from Union island is the man-made Happy island. The island consists of a bar where you can get an excellent rum punch topped with freshly grated nutmeg. When I travelled in the Caribbean I carried my own grater and nutmeg in case of emergencies.

The most popular drink in the Antilles, the ‘Rum Punch’, being expertly prepared on tiny Happy island.

Caribbean Rum Punch Recipe

1/2 oz. lime juice
4 oz. orange juice
4 oz. pineapple juice
1 1/2 oz. dark rum
1 1/2 oz. light rum
A little grenadine for colour.

Mix ingredients together, pour over ice and sprinkle with nutmeg and garnish with an orange slice and a cherry.

Enjoy!

Accommodation

On Saint Vincent I stayed at the charming Cobblestone Inn, located in downtown Kingstown. I would recommend this as a great base in the capital.

On Union island there are accommodation options in Clifton catering to all budgets. I stayed on a nice sandy beach a short walk from town but unfortunately I would not recommend the hotel.

If you prefer to book in advance, it’s best to book using booking.com

Eating Out

Like neighbouring Grenada, restaurants on the island offer Calaloo soup (a leafy vegetable similar to spinach) and lots of local seafood.

As with the other Anglo Caribbean Islands, Chinese and Indian cuisine is also available.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Saint Vincent and the Grenadines – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

International flights arrive at Argyle International Airport (IATA: SVD), which is located on the east coast, 8 km from Kingstown.

The airport is the second solar powered airport in the Caribbean, following V. C. Bird International Airport in Antigua.

The following airline provides international connections to St. Vincent and the Grenadines:

Air Canada Rouge – flies to/ from Toronto–Pearson
American Airlines – flies to/ from Miami
Caribbean Airlines – flies to/ from New York–JFK, Port of Spain
LIAT – flies to/ from Antigua, Barbados, Grenada, Port of Spain, Saint Lucia–Charles
Mustique Airways – flies to/ from Barbados, Bequia, Canouan, Mustique, Union Island
One Caribbean – flies to/ from Barbados, Grenada, Tortola
SVG Air – flies to/ from Barbados, Bequia, Canouan, Mustique, Saint Lucia–Hewanorra, Union Island

By Sea

There are no scheduled international ferry services, however private operators connect Carriacou island (Grenada) to Union Island (St. Vincent and the Grenadines). The journey time is approximately 45 mins. Ask around in either port for the captains of these boats.

The only other way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

Getting Around

Mini-buses operate on St. Vincent and taxis are available.

The best option for exploring the main island is to hire a car. There are rental companies at the airport and in Kingstown. If driving, you will first need to buy a temporary St. Vincent drivers license from the main police station in Kingstown.

Public transport on the smaller islands is non-existent. You either walk, hitch a ride or take a taxi.

Regular ferry services connect the different islands in St. Vincent & the Grenadines. For timetables and fares, please consult the Discover SVG website.

Small domestic airlines connect such as SVG Air and Mustique Airlines connect Kingstown with the Grenadines and beyond.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram:

taste2travel

Grenada Travel Guide

9 years ago

Grenada Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Grenada Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Welcome to Grenada! Home to some of the friendliest people in the Caribbean. In this country you will normally be greeted by a warm welcome and a big smile.

Fishing boats at Crayfish Bay.

Grenada is the most southerly of the Windward Islands, located a short boat ride south of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. The country is known as the “Island of Spice” due to it being one of the largest exporters of nutmeg in the world, supplying 40% of the market.

Location

Located in the Lesser Antilles, Grenada consists of the main island of Grenada itself plus six smaller islands which lie to the north of the main island. It is located northwest of Trinidad and Tobago and south of St. Vincent and the Grenadines.

The country consists of the islands of Grenada (main island), Carriacou and Petit Martinique. The main island is 34-km long and 22-km wide. You could explore most of the island in a few days with your own car.

History

Grenada was originally inhabited by native Carib Indians until the French arrived in 1649. The French forced the natives to flee to neighbouring islands. The French remained on the island until the British took control in 1763. The French returned again for a brief period but then the British regained control and kept it until independence was granted in 1974.

Fisherman in St. Georges harbour

A coup in 1983, which resulted in the moderate government of Maurice Bishop being replaced by a strongly pro-communist government, concerned the US administration enough that President Ronald Reagan ordered US troops to invade the island. Once a new (friendlier) government had been installed US troops departed.

Nutmeg is Grenada’s #1 export.

Grenada has a population of about 110,000 – which, like other Anglo Caribbean countries, is comprised of people of African, East Indian and European descent.

Flag

The flag of Grenada.

The flag of Grenada consists of two yellow triangles at the top and bottom and two green triangles at the hoist and fly sides.

These are surrounded by a red border charged with six five-pointed yellow stars; three at the top centre and three at the bottom centre, along with an additional star on a red disc at the centre and a nutmeg at the hoist triangle.

Adopted in 1974 at the time of independence and designed by a local Grenadian, the representation of a nutmeg is symbolic of the islands’ primary export.

Currency

The Eastern Caribbean Dollar.

The official currency of Grenada is the Eastern Caribbean dollar. Headquartered in Basseterre, the Eastern Caribbean Central Bank (ECCB) is the monetary authority for the following Caribbean nations:

Antigua & Barbuda
Grenada
St. Kitts & Nevis
Dominica
St. Lucia
St. Vincent and the Grenadines

and the following British overseas territories:

Anguilla
Montserrat

The bank was founded in 1983 in order to maintain the stability of the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$) and the integrity of the banking system of the member states.

The bank issues the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$), which is the currency of the member states. Since 1976, the exchange rate has been pegged to the US$ at a rate of US$1 = EC$2.70.

Sightseeing

St. Georges

View of St. Georges, the capital of Grenada.

The capital and largest city (population: 4,500) of Grenada, St. Georges is located on the hillside of an old volcano crater, wrapped around a horseshoe-shaped harbour.

A stroll along the harbourside street – the Carenage – is a good way to familiarise yourself with the city. The Carenage is home to bars, cafes, restaurants, shops and is full of activity from fisherman selling their catch to boats being unloaded, repaired etc.

Boat moored alongside the Carenage in St. Georges.

The city is small and compact and most sites can be covered on foot in one day. In 2004 hurricane Ivan destroyed the city. Today many buildings, including many of the main churches are still to be repaired.

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church was destroyed in 2004 by Hurricane Ivan

Around the Island

Gouyave

Learning about nutmeg from a guide at the Belmont Estate.

North of St. Georges is the west coast town of Gouyave. Worth a stop if you are passing through Gouyave is the Grenada Co-operative Nutmeg Association.

Nutmeg, laid out to dry, at the Grenada Co-operative Nutmeg Association.

At the co-op, you can learn all about the island’s #1 export while watching factory workers process the nut ready for export all over the world.

A worker at the Grenada Co-operative Nutmeg Association, sorting different grades of nutmeg.

River Antoine Rum Distillery

Rum from the River Antoine distillery.

This is a “must see” – a rum distillery founded in 1785 where the technology has not changed one bit.

The sugar cane is crushed by a huge waterwheel, the cane juice then flows into holding vats. The giant distilling pots are fired by workers who throw wood onto the fire. Everything here, including the bottling and labelling, is done by hand.

Firing the vats of alcohol at the River Antoine distillery.

The tour cost covers a sampling of the three different rums – it’s all rocket fuel stuff. Very potent!

Belmont Estate

If you are driving on the east side of the island you should aim to arrive at Belmont Estate around lunch time. The restaurant here does a great buffet lunch where you can try typical Grenadian cuisine. This is a popular lunch stop for the tour groups so it can get busy.

The estate is still in family hands. You can take a tour and learn all about the cocoa bean manufacturing and drying processes.

Cocoa beans drying at Belmont estate.

The onsite Grenada Chocolate Factory shop will satisfy the sweetest tooth.

Grenada Beaches

Sunset seen through a piece of fern coral at Morne Rouge beach.

The best beaches are in the south-west of the island, a short drive south of St. Georges.

The main beach with lots of white sand, beautiful Caribbean sea and great swimming is Grand Anse. Here you’ll also find hotels, dive shops and a small shopping mall (only one on the island).

Further south is the more secluded but equally stunning Morne Rouge. This is the best place to watch the sunset. There are some hotels on the beach here.

Sunset at Morne Rouge beach.

Scuba Diving

A camouflaged crab on a piece of brain coral.

The diving on Grenada is very good. An interesting dive site is the Underwater Sculture Park. You can also snorkel here as the sculptures are in about 10 metres of water. The park is a 5-minute boat ride from the dive shops on Grand Anse beach.

Carriacou Island

View from inside a ruined windmill foundation on Carriacou Island.

North of the main island, set like a stepping stone between Grenada and St. Vincent and the Grenadines, is tiny Carriacou Island.

Carriacou is home to 8,000 people. The capital city is Hillsborough, the only town on the island. Everything is a 5-min walk in this town. With a car you could tour the whole island in an couple of hours or walk it in a day.

Carriacou is reputed to be the friendliest, healthiest and safest island in the Caribbean. It is a pleasant place to spend some time.

Accommodation

You will find accommodation concentrated in the south-west corner of the main island either in St. Georges or along Grand Anse or Morne Rouge beaches. There are other options elsewhere around the island.

If you are going to Carriacou you should book in advance as accommodation is limited. Best to book using booking.com

Eating Out

Restaurants on the island offer all the regular international dishes plus lots of local seafood and lambi (conch). Calaloo soup (a leafy vegetable similar to spinach) is a local favourite as a starter.

As with the other Anglo Caribbean Islands, Chinese and Indian cuisine is also available.

You should not leave the spice island without trying nutmeg ice cream.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Grenada – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

International flights arrive at Maurice Bishop International Airport, which is located in the southwest of the island, 8-km south of St. Georges.

The following airlines provide international connections to Grenada:

Air Canada Rouge to Toronto
American Airlines to Miami
British Airways to London (Gatwick)
Caribbean Airlines to Port of Spain
Condor (Seasonal) to Frankfurt
Delta Air Lines (Seasonal) to Atlanta, New York (JFK)
JetBlue Airways to New York (JFK)
LIAT to Barbados, Port of Spain, Saint Vincent
Virgin Atlantic to London (Gatwick)

By Sea

There are no scheduled international ferry services, however private operators connect Carriacou island (Grenada) to Union Island (St. Vincent and the Grenadines). The journey time is approximately 45-mins. Ask around in either port for the captains of these boats.

The only other way to arrive by sea is b

y private yacht or cruise ship.

Getting Around

My rental car on Grenada, where a 4WD is recommended to handle the rough roads on Grenada.

Public transport on the main island is very limited and non-existent on the smaller islands. You can view the bus routes here.

Taxis are also available.

The best option is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. Before you hit the road you will need to purchase a Grenada drivers license from the police station at Grand Anse – your rental company will drive you to the station.

A daily passenger ferry runs between St. Georges and Carriacou with a connection to Petit Martinique. The ferry service is operated by Osprey Express Ltd. The ferry departs from the Carenage in St. Georges. The trip usually takes about 90 minutes, travelling up the west coast of the main island. For fares and schedule, refer to the Osprey Express website.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram:

taste2travel

Panama Bird Watching

9 years ago

Panama Bird Watching

Welcome to the taste2travel Panama Bird Watching feature!

Date Visited: March 2016

Introduction

A break from the Caribbean Island blogs…

Recently I had the opportunity to visit the beautiful Panamanian town of Boquete.

A Green violet-eared hummingbird at Finca Lerida.

Boquete lies 60 km from the border with Costa Rica in the Panamanian highlands at an elevation of 1,200 metres. Because of this the town has a mild climate and has become a favoured retirement location for North Americans.

Panama

The town is also popular with tourists due to the variety of activities on offer in the area. You can climb a volcano, raft, hike, swim in hot springs and so much more.

Boquete is a major coffee growing region so the cafes here sell exceptional coffee.

A Green violet-eared hummingbird at Finca Lerida.

The highlands around Boquete are lush and green due to the constantly changing weather, which sweeps in from the Caribbean sea, moving over the mountains onto the Pacific Ocean. The forests in the area are an excellent place for bird watching.

Sightseeing

Finca Lerida

The Gambling bird at Finca Lerida.

Located 5 km up a steep hill behind Boquete, Finca Lerida (elevation: 1600 m) was first established by a Norwegian engineer who had worked on the Panama Canal and was looking for a place with fresh, clean air to spend his retirement. He established the Finca with his wife in 1924.

A Gambling bird striking a pose at Finca Lerida.

Today the Finca is a luxury hotel with a restaurant and coffee shop. It’s surrounded by lush, well tended gardens, which attract a variety of birds.

A Female Scintillant hummingbird flying through the rain at Finca Lerida.

The estate is primarily a coffee plantation and you can see the beans being processed next to the coffee shop. The Finca is famous for growing the “Geisha” bean. At US$260 per kilo, this is the most expensive coffee in the world.

The famous Geisha coffee at Finca Lerida.

On the slopes above the estate are 6 km of walking trails, which will take you deep into the highland forests. Here you have a chance – but just a chance – of spotting the elusive Quetzal. I hired a guide (Eddy) and spent several hours with him in search of the Quetzal.

The elusive female Quetzal.

We got lucky! We found a male and female sitting almost side by side in two different trees. Eddy said he had never seen such a thing. They sat for 15 minutes while I photographed them.

The equally elusive male Quetzal.

Eddy was very excited, telling me I was very lucky to see such a site. When we returned to the Finca he told all the staff what we had seen. It was a good morning.

The resplendent male Quetzal.

The tiny female Scintillant hummingbird is just 5-cm long.

After the walk I spent some time in the garden of the Finca photographing hummingbirds and others. A female Scintillant hummingbird had built a nest on a coat rack outside one of the guest rooms and was sitting on two tiny eggs.

A female Scintillant hummingbird at Finca Lerida.

A coat rack serves as a nesting site for a Scintillant hummingbird at Finca Lerida.

A nesting female Scintillant hummingbird.

Each Hummingbird egg is about 1.5 cm in length.

Accommodation

If your budget allows, you can splurge and stay in the beautiful rooms at Finca Lerida. Otherwise there are more reasonably priced options down the hill in Boquete from hostels to hotels.

I stayed at hotel La Casa de Abuela, which I would recommend.

There are many hotels/ hostels in town so no need to book in advance, however if you wish to you can find accommodation on booking.com

Eating Out

There is an excellent restaurant onsite at the Finca and you should ensure you try the estate coffee, which is available from the coffee shop.

Being a popular tourist destination Boquete is full of restaurants, cafes and bars. I especially recommend the craft beers sold at the Boquete Brewing Company. They have a help-yourself popcorn machine, which keeps everyone happy.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Panama – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

International flights into Panama arrive at Tocumen International Airport. The airport is a major hub for the region, providing daily connections throughout the Americas and beyond.

By Road

You can access Panama from Costa Rica crossing the border either on the Caribbean coast from Puerto Viejo to Sixaola or inland on the Pan-Americana highway from Paso Canoa.

Either way you will need to transit through the city of David where frequent buses do the run up the mountain to Boquete.

Getting Around

Boquete is nice and compact, everything is within walking distance. Taxis and buses are available if required.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram:

taste2travel