Author - Darren McLean

Barbados Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
Barbados Travel Guide: Mount Gay Rum

Barbados Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Barbados Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

In the days when royalty and the rich and famous could fly Concorde to their favourite holiday destination there was just one regularly scheduled destination – Barbados!

Typical Bajan artwork for sale at a gallery in Bridgetown.

Typical Bajan artwork for sale at a gallery in Bridgetown.

The island has always marketed itself as a playground for the rich and famous and as such is not considered a budget destination – but, despite the marketing, you can still have an affordable holiday here. A very pleasant destination, Barbados (population: 280,000) is 34 km in length and up to 23 km wide and is easily explored with a rental car.

Colourful Chattel Houses, Barbados.

Colourful Chattel Houses, Barbados.

Location

Unlike most Caribbean nations, Barbados does not form part of any other island chain – it stands alone, and sets itself part, in many respects.

The island is located 168 km east of the windward islands of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines and 400 km north-east of Trinidad and Tobago. It is a huge chunk of raised limestone seabed located in the middle of nowhere. Barbados also lies outside of the hurricane belt.

Beach on Barbados.

An inviting west coast beach on beautiful Barbados.

History

The island was originally inhabited by native Kalingo until the Spanish arrived in the 16th century. The British arrived in 1625 and claimed the island.

Barbados Flag

The flag of Barbados features Neptune’s Trident at its centre.

The British ran the island as a plantation. Most of the population today are descendant from the slaves who were brought to the island from Africa to work on the plantations.

Violet Chattel House, Barbados.

A violet ‘Chattel’ house, a uniquely Barbadian word for a small move-able wooden house.

One of the legacies from the slavery era is the Chattel house, these can still be found all over the island. They are small, collapsible wooden houses that can be transported easily and were used by the slaves who would often move between different plantations.

A typically cute Chattel House on Barbados.

A typically cute Chattel House on Barbados.

Barbados remained in British hands until independence in 1966. Due to its historical ties to the UK, Barbados today remains more ‘British’ than any other Caribbean island and is often referred to as ‘Little England’.

Pink Chattel House, Barbados.

This renovated pink Chattel house now serves as an artist’s studio near Bridgetown.

Sightseeing

Bridgetown

The coral-limestone clock tower of the Parliament Building, Bridgetown, Barbados.

The coral-limestone clock tower of the Parliament Building, Bridgetown, Barbados.

The capital and largest city (population: 110,000), Bridgetown is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. At the centre of this compact capital, the Parliament Building is the seat of the Parliament of Barbados. Built between 1870 and 1874, the buildings have been the meeting place for both chambers of Parliament since 16 June 1874, and a former site of Colonial administration of Barbados. It consists of two buildings in the neo-Gothic architectural style, and are reminiscent of the Victorian era of Great Britain.

Government Buildings, Bridgetown, Barbados.

Reflection shot of the coral-limestone government buildings in Bridgetown, Barbados.

The buildings are situated along the north bank of the Constitution River and are bordered by Upper Broad Street and National Heroes Square to the south; strategically at the heart of the capital city Bridgetown. Prior to the establishment of the buildings the legislature met at the Town Hall building on Coleridge Street.

Parliament Buildings, Bridgetown, Barbados.

The Bajan parliament building in Bridgetown is constructed from coral limestone rock.

Downtown you will find many fine coral-limestone buildings, one of which houses the Barbados museum. Bridgetown is a busy, bustling city but most sites and can be covered on foot in one day.

The best coffee in Bridgetown is available from the cafe on the 1st floor of the Cave Shepherd department store on Broad Street.

A gift shop on Barbados.

A gift shop on Barbados.

George Washington House

The George Washington House Museum, Barbados.

The George Washington House Museum, Barbados.

George Washington House in Barbados is a historic house where the future first U.S. President George Washington visited, in 1751. He was 19 years old at the time and travelling with his ailing half-brother, Lawrence Washington. Barbados was the only country Washington ever visited outside colonial America.

The House, which is now operated by the Barbados National Trust, provides a glimpse into the Barbados of 250 years ago. The museum cafe, Coffee Barbados Cafe, serves some of the best coffee and brunches on the island.

Funky Rastafarian hats for sale on Barbados.

Funky Rastafarian hats for sale on Barbados.

Barbados Museum and Historical Society

The Barbados Museum and Historical Society In Bridgetown.

The Barbados Museum and Historical Society In Bridgetown.

Established in 1933 in the old Military Prison at the historic Garrison, the Barbados Museum & Historical Society is a private museum which houses 500,000 artefacts which depict the islands rich history and natural history.

Displays range from Bajan fauna and flora, natural history and Amerindian artefacts from the original settlers of the Barbados.

Around the Island

An antique mileage indicator on Barbados.

An antique mileage indicator on Barbados.

Mount Gay Rum

Mount Gay rum selection, Barbados.

Mount Gay rum selection, Barbados.

Barbados is a rum lover’s paradise. Rum is an integral part of Barbadian culture and with 12,000 rum shops scattered across the island, you are never far from your next drink.

Barbados claims to be the birthplace of rum. It is the home of several brands, including Malibu.

Mount Gay XO Rum.

The deluxe, Mount Gay XO, too smooth to be used in a rum punch.

Established in 1703, the Mount Gay company has spent over 300 years perfecting rum. It is the oldest commercial rum distillery in the world. The rum is distilled in the north of the island but the visitor centre is on the northern outskirts of Bridgetown and is open to visitors Monday – Friday. The distillery offers a choice of a standard tour or you can join a cocktail making class, which is a lot of fun.

There’s a restaurant onsite offering lunch and of course, the rum never stops flowing. My favourite is the XO, which is nice and smooth and should be drunk neat – too good to be wasted in a rum punch. All details regarding visits are available on the Mount Gay website.

Harrison’s Cave

Barbados Travel Guide: One of the many vast underground caverns at the Harrison's cave complex.

One of the many vast underground caverns at the Harrison’s cave complex.

Located in the interior uplands in the parish of St. Thomas, Harrison’s cave is worth a visit. Barbados is a raised slab of limestone so there are numerous caves on the island but this is the most impressive. Unfortunately you are not able to walk through the cave. Visitors are instead shuttled around on solar-powered trams.

Animal Flower Cave

A view of the sea on the north coast of Barbados from inside the Animal Flower cave.

A view of the sea on the north coast of Barbados from inside the Animal Flower cave.

The Animal Flower cave is located in the cliffs at North Point at the northern tip of the island in St. Lucy’s parish. The cave is accessible via a series of coral steps, which descend through what use to be the blowhole.

A view of the north coast of Barbados from North Point.

A view of the north coast of Barbados from North Point.

‘Animal Flower’ is a local term for a sea anemone, which lives in the salt water pools in the cave. The cave looks out onto the sea but during high tide the cave is closed as waves come crashing in through the entrance.

Colourful ceramic houses for sale at a souvenir shop on Barbados.

Colourful ceramic houses for sale at a souvenir shop on Barbados.

Concorde Experience

Concorde experience

Concorde experience

Parked in a custom-made hangar just off the runway at Grantley Adams International airport is Concorde G-BOAE, which used to fly weekly from London to Barbados until 2003. When BA ended the Concorde program this one was donated to Barbados.

The British Airways Concorde which is open to visitors at the Barbados Concorde Experience.

The British Airways Concorde which is open to visitors at the Barbados Concorde Experience.

A visit to the museum includes a guided tour inside the plane – the only chance for mere mortals to view the interior of the Concorde and to sit in one of its seats – and dream.

Sunbury Plantation House

The historic Sunbury Plantation House, Barbados.

The historic Sunbury Plantation House, Barbados.

Located in the parish of St. Philip, and dating from the 1600’s, Sunbury Plantation House is a renovated former ‘great’ house which, today, serves as a period museum, filled with majestic furniture and a bevy of antiques. In the late 1800’s, the Barbados Railway included a stop at Sunbury Plantation, one of four train stations in St.Philip parish

St. Andrews Parish Church

St. Andrew's Parish Church, Barbados.

St. Andrew’s Parish Church, Barbados.

Located on the east coast of Barbados, St. Andrew Parish is dominated by the historic St. Andrew’s Parish Church. The original church was established circa 1630, but was destroyed by a hurricane in 1831 – the current church dates from 1846.

Morgan Lewis Windmill

The Morgan Lewis windmill is the oldest windmill on Barbados.

The Morgan Lewis windmill is the oldest windmill on Barbados.

Located in the parish of St. Andrew, the Morgan Lewis windmill has the distinction of being one of just two working sugar windmills in the world today. The mill stopped operating in 1947 and, in 1962, was gifted to the Barbados National Trust for preservation as a museum.

Codrington College

Codrington College, Barbados.

Codrington College, Barbados.

Located on a hill in the parish of St. John, overlooking the Atlantic ocean, Codrington College offers one of the most spectacular views of the East Coast of Barbados. One of the oldest colleges in the Caribbean, Codrington College was founded with the profits from the bequest of Christopher Codrington, the former owner of Codrington Plantations, after his death in 1710.

Barbados Travel Guide: Water Lily at Codrington College, Barbados.

Water Lily at Codrington College, Barbados.

The setting of Codrington College is especially beautiful with a large garden, magnificent lily pond and a driveway lined with palm trees.

East Coast

Bathsheba Beach, Barbados.

Bathsheba Beach is a typical east coast beach on Barbados.

Beaches on the east coast of Barbados are exposed to the rough Atlantic Ocean and are not as ideal for swimming. It is much quieter on this coast with most people swimming on the calmer leeward side of the island.

Andromeda Gardens

The alluring Jade Vine Flower at the Andromeda Gardens, Barbados.

The alluring Jade Vine Flower at the Andromeda Gardens, Barbados.

Located in the parish of St Joseph, a short drive from Bathsheba Beach, the Andromeda Gardens started life as a private plant collection around the home of Iris Bannochie, a leading horticulturalist.

The garden today, which is operated by the Barbados National Trust, is considered the most attractive gardens on the island. Named after the Greek mythological figure of Andromeda, one of the highlights of the garden is the trellis covered with the very unique Jade Vine Flower.

Barbados Beaches

Typical west coast beach

Typical west coast beach

Barbados has more than 110 km of beaches and being a huge slab of limestone, the beaches are often white powdery sand (from crushed coral) with turquoise waters.

The beaches on the west coast are amazing and it’s here you’ll find most of the hotels and tourist infrastructure. Wherever you are on the west coast the view is of a quintessential Caribbean beach.

Sunset on the west coast of Barbados.

Sunset on the west coast of Barbados.

Accommodation

There is a range of accommodation options for all budgets on the island from deluxe resorts to hostels.

High season prices apply from mid-December to mid-April.

I stayed in two different hotels on the island:

Barbados is a busy island so best to book ahead using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

Like other Anglo-Caribbean islands, Bajan cuisine contains English, Indian and African influence, which has been fused with the local seafood and produce.

In downtown Bridgetown there are many restaurants offering lunch specials to the local office workers. Here you can sample local specialities at local prices.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Barbados – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

All flights arrive at Grantley Adams International Airport, which is located 13 km south of Bridgetown in the parish of Christ Church.

The airport has direct service to destinations in the Caribbean, United States, Canada, Central America, South America and Europe.

It also serves as the second hub for LIAT (hopefully you are not subjected to the terrible service of this Caribbean monopoly airline too often).

By Sea

There are no scheduled ferry services connecting Barbados to any other island. The only way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

Getting Around

Public transport on Barbados is excellent. Frequent buses connect most places of interest. You can check routes on the Barbados transport board website

Hiring a car will allow you to explore the more remote parts of the island. The island can be covered in 2-3 days.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Barbados Travel Guide Barbados Travel Guide Barbados Travel Guide Barbados Travel Guide Barbados Travel Guide

Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide!

Date Visited: March 2015

Introduction

Trinidad and Tobago (TT) is a two-island country offering the visitor two very different destinations in one and, due to the diversity of its fauna, flora and people, one of the more interesting destinations in the Caribbean.

Trinidad is a peculiar Caribbean destination due to the fact that historically, it formed part of the South American mainland. Because of this the fauna and flora on Trinidad is similar to that of Venezuela and the Amazon and hence unique for a Caribbean island. Here you will find Howler and Capuchin monkeys, ocelots, Scarlet Ibis, Tree boas and so much more. A trip into the mangroves of the Caroni Bird sanctuary feels much more ‘Amazonian’ then ‘Caribbean’.

Both Trinidad and Tobago are two delightful islands and well worth exploring.

Location

Trinidad and Tobago

Trinidad and Tobago

Trinidad has more in common with the South American continent than its neighbouring Caribbean islands. At its closest point Trinidad is located just 11-km off the coast of Venezuela and, as recently as 1,500 years ago, was part of the South American mainland.

The two islands are separated by 83 km (52 mi) of azure-blue, Caribbean sea, with Trinidad being more mountainous and forested while Tobago attracts the tourist hordes with its laid-back tempo and its idyllic beaches.

History

Trinidad & Tobago were two separate, independent territories until the British joined them as one administrative region in 1889.

Previously, Trinidad was a Spanish colony from the time Christopher Columbus landed in 1498 until a British invasion in 1797. Columbus named the island after he saw what appeared to him as a trinity of hills along the south-eastern coast.

White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

The British occupied Trinidad until independence in 1962. During this period slaves were imported from Africa to work on the many plantations. Once slavery ended indentured labourers from India were brought in to replace the freed slaves. Today the largest population group on Trinidad are the Indo-Trinidadians (37%), followed by the Afro-Trinidadians (36%). Making up the rest of the population are descendants of European settlers, Chinese, Arabs and more.

Trinidad is a veritable melting-pot and this is reflected in the rich and varied cuisine and culture. Carnival is the main cultural event – see ‘Carnival‘ below – and from this Calypso music developed. Today Soca music (mix of Calypso, dance / Indian music) is popular and can be heard throughout the English-speaking Caribbean.

White-necked Jacobin hummingbird in flight at the Asa Wright nature centre.

White-necked Jacobin hummingbird in flight at the Asa Wright nature centre.

Over the centuries Tobago has been occupied by the Dutch, English, Spanish, Swedish and French. The island has changed hands no less than 33 times – more than any other Caribbean island. It was ceded to the British in 1814.

Under British rule the island was run as a plantation, producing sugar, indigo and cotton. Slaves were imported from Africa to work the plantations and today the majority of the population are descendants from those slaves.

The beach at Pigeon Point is one of the finest on the island of Tobago.

The beach at Pigeon Point is one of the finest on the island of Tobago.

Flag

Flag of Trinidad and Tobago.

Flag of Trinidad and Tobago.

The flag of Trinidad and Tobago, which was selected from a series of designs created by the Independence Committee in 1962, features a red field with a white-edged black diagonal band from the upper hoist side to the lower fly-side.

As per the designer, the colour black represents the dedication of the people joined together by one strong bond. It is the colour of strength, of unity of purpose, and of the wealth of the land.

Red represents the fire element. It is the colour most expressive of Trinidad & Tobago; the vitality of the land and its peoples; the warmth and energy of the sun, the courage and friendliness of the people.

White is the sea by which these lands are bound; the cradle of the nation’s heritage; the purity of aspirations and the equality of all men under the sun.

Currency

Currency of Trinidad and Tobago.

Currency of Trinidad and Tobago.

The official currency of T&T is the Trinidad and Tobago dollar (TT$), which trades under the international currency code of TTD.

Issued by the Central Bank of Trinidad & Tobago, bank notes are printed in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $20, $50 & $100. Both the $50 and $100 are polymer notes. You can view specimens of current bank notes on the Central Bank website.

The dollar is subdivided into 100 cents (¢), with coins issued in denominations of 5¢, 10¢, 25¢ and 50¢. You can view specimens of current coins on the Central Bank website.

The current exchange rate against the US dollar is US$1 = TT$6.77

To view the current exchange rate, please click here.

Sightseeing

Trinidad

Port of Spain

Sunset over Port-of-Spain.

Sunset over Port of Spain.

Originally the site of an Amerindian fishing village, the capital of TT – Port of Spain (POS) – was founded by Spanish settlers who established a port here: “Puerto de los Hispanioles”, later renamed to “Puerto de España”.  A Spanish garrison first established a presence here in 1560. The British invaded and claimed the country in 1797.

With a population of 600,000 (greater urban area), POS is the 2nd largest city in the English-speaking Caribbean – after Kingston, Jamaica.

POS is an important commercial and financial centre for the Caribbean region and home to its biggest stock exchange. You’ll meet many different Caribbean ex-pats working here. Its airport is an important hub in the Caribbean, its port one of the biggest.

The downtown area is compact and the few sites of interest can be seen on foot in a day. It’s worth starting your day with a walk around Queens Park Savannah. This is the green lung of the city, a huge park lined with historical buildings that are all architecturally different.

On one side of the park you will find the Royal Botanical gardens. These well tended gardens are a good place to see native plants and trees.

Due to the multi-racial population, there are a variety of churches and other places of worship to visit.

Downtown POS has a gritty, rough edge to it. You should exercise caution when walking around. Crime is an issue here. Always take taxis in the evenings.

Carnival

Each year on the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday (February) the city celebrates Carnival. It’s the biggest of its kind in the Caribbean and the most significant event on the islands’ cultural and tourism calendar.

Carnival was originally brought to Trinidad by French settlers from Martinique in the 18th century. Originally the celebration was for the ruling class, but it was imitated and adapted by their slaves and, after the abolition of slavery in 1838, the practice became wide-spread.

The main venue is Queens Park Savannah in downtown POS. Carnival was traditionally associated with calypso music (developed in TT); however, recently Soca music (also developed in TT) has replaced calypso as the music of choice.

Bitter(s) in Trinidad

Angostura Bitters - proudly made in Trinidad.<br /> <i>Source: http://angosturabitters.com/</i>

Angostura Bitters – proudly made in Trinidad.
Source: http://angosturabitters.com/

Famous the world over, Angostura bitters is a concentrated bitters, or botanically infused alcoholic mixture, made by the House of Angostura in POS.

The secret recipe was first formulated by a German doctor who was the Surgeon-General in Simon Bolivar’s army in Venezuela. It was first produced in the town of Angostura (Ciudad Bolívar, Venezuela). The company later relocated operations to POS.

Visits are possible but must be organised in advance by contacting the House of Angostura. Don’t even try asking them about their secret recipe.

La Brea Pitch Lake

The surface of the 75-metre deep La Brea Pitch Lake, the largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world.

The surface of the 75-metre deep La Brea Pitch Lake, the largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world.

An interesting anomaly on the south coast of Trinidad is La Brea Pitch lake, which has the distinction of being the largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world, estimated to contain 10 million tons.

The lake is what is known as a bitumen seep. It’s the result of a fault in the sandstone bedrock 75 metres below, which allows bitumen to seep to the surface. The lake covers about 40 hectares (100 acres) and is 75-m (250 feet) deep.

My guide demonstrating how easy it is to sink into the gooey asphalt Lake.

My guide demonstrating how easy it is to sink into the gooey asphalt Lake.

The surface of the lake looks like a car park and is firm enough that you can walk on it. You should only ever do this with a knowledgeable guide as there are many places where the surface is soft and gooey. If you stray into these areas you risk getting stuck and possibly sinking into the gooey depths.

Wandering tourists have died here!

For decades the pitch has been mined and exported for use on roofs and roads.

The very sticky, La Brea Pitch lake.

The very sticky, La Brea Pitch lake.

By car the lake can be reached on a day trip from Port of Spain. The road from POS to San Fernando is a fast dual-lane highway. South of San Fernando the one lane road is slow, windy and busy.

Lake guides will be waiting around in the nearby car park and will find you before you find them!

Caroni Bird Sanctuary

Due to the fact it was sleeping, I was almost able to reach out and touch this Tree Boa in Caroni Bird Sanctuary.

Due to the fact it was sleeping, I was almost able to reach out and touch this Tree Boa in Caroni Bird Sanctuary.

The Caroni Bird Sanctuary is located on the west coast of Trinidad, a short drive south of POS. The sanctuary is centred around the Caroni Swamp, which is an estuarine system of mangrove forest and marshes.

The Caroni Bird Sanctuary is famous for its huge numbers of the striking, but shy, Scarlet Ibis.

The Caroni Bird Sanctuary is famous for its huge numbers of the striking, but shy, Scarlet Ibis.

The sanctuary is home to the Scarlet Ibis – the national bird of Trinidad. The highlight of a visit is to witness thousands of these birds returning to their roosting site at sunset on one central island.

Each evening at sunset, thousands of Scarlet Ibis return to Caroni Bird Sanctuary to roost for the evening.

Each evening at sunset, thousands of Scarlet Ibis return to Caroni Bird Sanctuary to roost for the evening.

The mangrove swamps in the sanctuary are a rich source of food for the Scarlet Ibis.

Like flamingos, the Scarlet Ibis obtains its brilliant colour from pigments in its food, which includes the mangrove crab.

Like flamingos, the Scarlet Ibis obtains its brilliant colour from pigments in its food, which includes the mangrove crab.

You can visit the sanctuary on a tour from POS or you can drive or take a bus. The entrance to the sanctuary is just off the main highway between POS and San Fernando.

If you travel to the sanctuary independently you can join one of the many boats that depart from the sanctuary entrance at around 3:30pm each afternoon.

North Coast and Northern Range

White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

If you have a car, a nice day trip from the capital is a circuitous route from Port of Spain to Maracas Bay on the north coast then onto the beautiful, isolated beach at Blanchisseuse. This is the end of the road along the north coast.

From here you turn south and cross the lush Northern Range, stopping at the Asa Wright nature centre before meeting the main highway at the town of Arima then heading back into Port of Spain.

A colourful male Violaceous Euphonia at the Asa Wright Nature Centre.

A colourful male Violaceous Euphonia at the Asa Wright Nature Centre.

Total driving time is about 4-hours but with stops along the way it will take you a full day.

North Coast

A view over the north coast of Trinidad from the Maracas lookout.

A view over the north coast of Trinidad from the Maracas lookout.

The drive from Port of Spain takes you first through the picturesque Maraval valley before eventually bringing you to the north coast. The coast road was built by US troops during WWII and hugs the Northern range high above the sea.

The best panoramic views are from Maracas lookout. On weekends Indian sweet sellers set up food stands here.

The road then descends into Maracas Bay, which is a popular swimming beach. If you want to try Shark and Bake (fried piece of flat-bread – bake – filled with pieces of fried shark) this is the place to do it.

Carib beer is one of the more popular beers in T&T and other Caribbean countries.

Carib beer is one of the more popular beers in T&T and other Caribbean countries.

Continuing until you reach the end of the coast road will bring you to the small village of Blanchisseuse. Here you’ll find a nice beach and a couple of waterfalls, which are popular swimming spots for locals on weekends. There are some beach-side restaurants here offering lunch.

Blanchisseuse Beach on the north coast of Trinidad.

Blanchisseuse Beach on the north coast of Trinidad.

From the coast you now head inland on the narrow, windy, mountainous road over the Northern Range. This is a beautiful drive through lush countryside. The locals advise to take extra caution when driving this road.

Asa Wright Nature Centre

A male White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

A male White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

On the other side of the range, as the road descends through the Arima valley, Asa Wright nature centre is a birdwatchers’ paradise. The original estate was purchased by Dr. Newcome Wright and his Icelandic wife Asa in 1947.

A female White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

A female White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

The original house has been preserved, and houses a dining hall, guest rooms and an open verandah for observing birds. There is a photo of Prince Charles and Camilla visiting the centre displayed in the hallway.

A male Purple Honey Creeper at Asa Wright nature reserve.

A male Purple Honey Creeper at Asa Wright nature reserve.

If you are not a guest you are able to visit the house and use the verandah for observation after paying an admission fee.

A Copper-rumped hummingbird at the Asa Wright nature reserve.

A Copper-rumped hummingbird at the Asa Wright nature reserve.

Tobago

Named for the tobacco plant that the Carib Indians used to harvest,  Tobago is an autonomous island within the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago. It is located 32-km northeast of Trinidad, but is a world away from the bustling ‘mainland’.

The island is known for its laid-back tempo, it’s many fine beaches, rain-forest, excellent snorkeling and diving and so is a popular tourist destination. The island relies more on the tourist dollar than Trinidad does.

Tobago has a population of 62,000, its capital and largest city is Scarborough (pop: 25,000).

The island is 40-km long and 10-km wide. There is almost no public transport on the island so you will need a hire car if you wish to explore – see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below for more details.

The roads on the island are asphalt but are narrow, windy and single lane, hugging the coastline most of the time. Driving conditions require that you slow down and take your time. It is a beautiful island with many spectacular views. A complete circuit could be done in one rushed day but two or three is better.

The island is connected to Trinidad by regular fast ferry services and frequent air shuttles – see the ‘Getting There’ section below for more details.

A view over the mountainous north coast of Tobago.

A view over the mountainous north coast of Tobago.

I stayed in the town of Speyside, which is on the quiet, remote north coast. If you wish to snorkel or dive, this is the place to be, but you’ll need your own transport here.

Most tourist infrastructure (hotels, resorts, restaurants, bars etc) is concentrated in the southwest corner of the island around Pigeon Point, Crown Point and Store bay. This area is walking distance from the airport. If you want to be close to sandy beaches, nightlife etc – this is the place to be.

Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide: Sunset from Pigeon Point beach, Tobago.

Sunset from Pigeon Point beach, Tobago.

 Accommodation

There are a range of accommodation options on Trinidad and Tobago. High season prices apply from January to May.

Unlike other Caribbean destinations, hotels in POS rely less on tourists and more on the business traveler. Accommodation is usually more reasonably priced, with bigger chain hotels offering bargains during the weekends. I stayed on the cheap at the Hilton.

Accommodation on Tobago caters for all budgets and is geared to the holiday maker. I stayed in an apartment in Speyside and self-catered. Be prepared for ‘sticker-shock’ when looking at resort / hotel prices.

Best to book in advance using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide: Fish market at Speyside, Tobago.

Fish market at Speyside, Tobago.

Like other Anglo-Caribbean countries, the cuisine of Trinidad and Tobago has been influenced by its diverse multicultural, multiracial population. It is a unique blend of African, Indian, Chinese, European and Latin American influences. Curry and roti can be found everywhere as can Chinese.

The fishing industry is key on Tobago so you will find lots of fresh seafood on the menu there.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Trinidad & Tobago – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

For some nationalities (e.g. Australians), you can purchase your visa upon arrival.

Getting There

By Air

Trinidad

Flights into Trinidad arrive at Piarco International Airport. The airport is located in the town of Piarco, 30-km east POS.

The airport is the main hub for the national carrier, Caribbean Airlines.

The following airlines provide international connections to / from:

  • American Airlines – Miami
  • British Airways – London (Gatwick)
  • Caribbean Airlines – Antigua, Barbados, Caracas, Fort Lauderdale, Georgetown, Grenada, Kingston, Miami, Nassau, New York (JFK), Orlando, Paramaribo, St. Lucia, St. Maarten, Tobago, Toronto
  • Copa Airlines – Panama City
  • Insel Air – Curaçao
  • JetBlue Airways – Fort Lauderdale, New York (JFK)
  • LIAT – Antigua, Barbados, Georgetown (Ogle), Grenada, St. Lucia, St. Vincent
  • Surinam Airways – Curaçao, Paramaribo
  • United Airlines – Houston (Intercontinental), Newark
  • WestJet – Toronto

Tobago

Flights into Tobago arrive at A.N.R. Robinson International Airport.

The following airlines provide international connections to/ from:

  • British Airways – London (via Antigua)
  • Virgin Atlantic – London (via St. Lucia)
  • Condor – Frankfurt
  • Gol – São Paulo
  • American Airlines and Caribbean Airlines – New York (JFK)

Trinidad ⬅️➡️ Tobago

Caribbean Airlines operates an air bridge between Trinidad and Tobago. There are about 20 daily flights, with the first leaving Trinidad at 6 am.

By Sea

Trinidad ⬅️➡️ Venezuela

Scheduled ferry services between Trinidad (POS) and Venezuela (Guiria) are currently suspended.

For those independent adventurers, there are other options if you are determined to make the short crossing. One detailed account is outlined here.

Trinidad ⬅️➡️ Tobago

The Trinidad & Tobago Inter-Island Ferry Service operates two fast ferries, which complete the 32 km crossing from POS to Scarborough in 2 and a half hours. There are multiple sailings 7-days a week. All details are available on their website.

Getting Around

Trinidad

Public transport on Trinidad is better than Tobago due to its larger population.

You have a choice of buses, maxi taxis (shared mini buses), taxis or ferries (e.g. POS – San Fernando).

Hiring a taxi in POS will cost you around USD$15 flat fare anywhere downtown.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car. You should book in advance as demand often outstrips supply. The island can be covered in 4-5 days.

Tobago

Public transport on Tobago is very limited – you will see most locals trying to hitch rides.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car. You should book in advance to avoid disappointment. The island can be covered in a day if you rushed around but at a more leisurely pace would require a few days.

 

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide

Bonaire Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
A Caribbean Flamingo on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

Bonaire Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Bonaire Travel Guide!

Date Visited: March 2015

Introduction

When your plane pulls up outside the small terminal building of Bonaire’s Flamingo International Airport (painted Flamingo pink) you’ll know you’ve landed somewhere special.

Dutch-style buildings in downtown Kralendijk, the capital of Bonaire.

Dutch-style buildings in downtown Kralendijk, the capital of Bonaire.

Located at the eastern end of the ‘ABC‘ (Aruba, Curaçao and Bonaire) island chain, Bonaire prides itself on being an environmentalists’ paradise.

The island has focused on preserving its nature beauty, with an emphasis on its stunning marine environment, and has over the years taken steps to accomplish this.

All the waters surrounding the island are 100% protected, which means this is a diver & snorkeler’s paradise!

Visiting cruise ships are forced to employ long ropes in order to tie up to the wharf rather than dropping anchor and damaging the pristine reef which runs along the entire west coast of the island.

Cruise ships at Bonaire are tied to the shore as they are not allowed to drop anchor on the protected reef.

Cruise ships at Bonaire are tied to the shore as they are not allowed to drop anchor on the protected reef.

There are 63 dive sites on Bonaire itself with an additional 26 on Klein Bonaire. Thanks to its constant trade winds, the island is also a popular destination for wind-surfing and kite-surfing, with most of the action taking place on the south-west coast.

Bonaire Flag

The flag of Bonaire.

Even if you’re not a diver or windsurfer, Bonaire offers other attractions, such as Flamingo watching by the shores or Lake Gotomeer and sipping vodka produced from a cactus!

Location

The island lies 48-km east of Curaçao and 140-km east of Aruba. It is the smallest of the ABC islands in terms of population (16,500) and 2nd smallest in terms of area (38-km long, 8-km wide).

However, what the island lacks in size it makes up for in charm and soul. Bonaire is enchanting. A large number of visitors to the island are return visitors. It is also outside of the Caribbean hurricane belt.

A Caribbean Flamingo on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

A Caribbean Flamingo on Lake Gotomeer.

History

The name Bonaire is thought to have originally come from the native Indian Caiquetio word ‘Bonay’, a name that meant low country. The early Spanish and Dutch modified its spelling to Bojnaj and also Bonaire.

An antique promotional poster for Bonaire.

An antique promotional poster for Bonaire.

While Curaçao emerged as a centre of the slave trade, Bonaire became a plantation of the Dutch West India Company. A small number of African slaves were put to work cultivating dye-wood and maize and harvesting solar salt – see ‘Salt Mining’ below.

Slave Huts, Bonaire.

Dating from 1850, these slave huts served as camping facilities for slaves working in the salt ponds on the south coast of Bonaire.

Bonaire is one of three islands that constitute the Caribbean Netherlands, along with Saba and Sint Eustatius (click on the links to read my guides to these islands). They are the three special municipalities of the Netherlands that are located in the Caribbean Sea.

A perfect east coast sunset on Bonaire.

A perfect east coast sunset on Bonaire.

Today tourism is the main industry, this island of 16,500 receives over 100,000 tourists a year. Most come as day-trippers on cruise ships, others come to dive in the Bonaire Marine Park. The largest group of visitors are Dutch and American.

A P&O cruise ship docked at Kralendijk.

A P&O cruise ship docked at Kralendijk. Bonaire has a total population of 20,000 while some large cruise ships bring 5,000 passengers to the island.

Sightseeing

Kralendijk

Bonaire Travel Guide: Dutch-style buildings in downtown Kralendijk, the capital of Bonaire.

Dutch-style buildings in downtown Kralendijk, the capital of Bonaire.

Kralendijk is the capital and largest city (population: 3000) of Bonaire. When a 5000-passenger cruise ship is in port this small town is overwhelmed.

The town developed around Fort Oranje, originally under the English as the settlement of “Playa”. The town was renamed “Kralendijk” by the Dutch colonial rulers in about 1840.

The flag of Bonaire, flying in downtown Kralendijk.

The flag of Bonaire, flying in downtown Kralendijk.

The language spoken in the town is Papiamentu (a creole language indigenous to the Dutch Antilles) but Dutch and English are widely used. In Dutch, Koralendijk (of which the name Kralendijk is a degeneration) means “coral reef” or “coral dike”.

Exploring the south coast of tiny Bonaire, including Willemstoren Lighthouse, in my rental car.

Exploring the south coast of tiny Bonaire, including Willemstoren Lighthouse, in my rental car.

There’s not much going on in this small town. The tourist information office has a walking tour brochure, which covers all of the sites of interest. You could see everything in half a day.

For the best coffee (and ice cream) in town, I recommend Gio’s Gelateria and Caffe, located on the main street – Kaya Grandi.

The Dutch-style town hall in Kralendijk.

The Dutch-style town hall in Kralendijk.

Whenever cruise ships are in town there is a market held on the Wilhelmina square. The BBQ sold here makes for a tasty lunch.

Off the coast of Kralendijk lies the uninhabited island of Klein Bonaire, a diving and snorkeling paradise. This small island can be reached by water taxi, or, for divers, by the local dive operators.

Flamingos

Caribbean Flamingos on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

Caribbean Flamingos on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

Bonaire is famed for its flamingos. They are drawn to the brackish water of the island’s lagoons, which harbour the shrimp upon which they feed. You can see flamingo populations at the northern and southern ends of the island.

The best viewing is at lake Gotomeer, either at sunrise or sunset.

Bonaire Travel Guide: A Caribbean Flamingo on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

A Caribbean Flamingo on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

The Pekelmeer Flamingo Sanctuary (southern end of the island) is one of only four areas in the world where flamingos breed. Pekelmeer means “salt lake” in Dutch.

Entry is not allowed in the sanctuary, but the birds can be watched with binoculars from the road.

A Caribbean Flamingo filter-feeding on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

A Caribbean Flamingo filter-feeding on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

Cactus Vodka

If you are passing through the town of Rincon, you should stop in at the Cadushy distillery.

Cactus vodka from the Cadushy distillery.

Cactus vodka from the Cadushy distillery.

A variety of products are made here including the only vodka in the world to be made from a cactus – the Kadushi Cactus.

image

The Kadushi cactus – the key ingredient for Cadushy vodka.

Bonaire Beaches

Most of the coastline of Bonaire is rocky with a reef running along the entire shoreline, not an island for a beach vacation.

Most of the coastline of Bonaire is rocky with a reef running along the entire shoreline, not an island for a beach vacation.

For beach lovers, there are a choice of 22 beaches which offer small strips of sand ranging from soft to larger, coarser grains. The island is primarily a diving destination but a beach holiday is also possible. While on the beach, you should keep an eye out for the curious and not-too-shy Green Iguana which was introduced to the island in colonial times.

Introduced to the island, the Green Iguana is a common sight on Bonaire and is featured in local cuisine.

Introduced to the island, the Green Iguana is a common sight on Bonaire and is featured in local cuisine.

The focus on the environment on Bonaire ensures pristine waters full of coral, fish and sea life. Bonaire is a “Green Destination”, with the best beaches found on the protected, leeward side of the island (i.e. the west coast).

Diving and Snorkelling

Bonaire Travel Guide: A reef runs along the entire Leeward coast, making Bonaire a diver's paradise.

A reef runs along the entire Leeward coast, making Bonaire a diver’s paradise.

Bonaire is known for having some of the best diving in the world! This is the reason most people come to Bonaire…

Bonaire is essentially a coral reef that has been geologically pushed up and out of the sea. This has resulted in the natural fringing reef system you see today, in which the coral formations start at the shoreline. At any point along the coast you can step into the water and start snorkeling or diving. Just beyond the shoreline is a drop-off.

Bonaire markets itself as a divers paradise!

The Bonaire license plate - 'Divers Paradise'.

The Bonaire license plate – ‘Divers Paradise’.

The entire coastline of the island was designated a marine sanctuary in 1979 in an effort to preserve and protect the delicate coral reef and the marine life that depends on it.

If you are diving on the island you will be required to purchase the Bonaire Marine Park tag for US$25.00. The tag is valid for one year. SCUBA divers are obliged to display the dive tag on their BCD.

Dive operators can be found along the coast, especially north of Kralendijk.

Salt Mining

The purple briny water of a salt-water pond contrasts against the mounds of white salt at the Cargill Salt Mine.

The purple briny water of a salt-water pond contrasts against the mounds of white salt at the Cargill Salt Mine.

If you drive south on the island, you will see a series of white hills looming on the horizon. This is the Bonaire salt mine, which is today operated by the American company Cargill.

Salt mining has always been an important industry on the island. Fort Oranje was built by the Dutch in 1639 to defend the harbour, from which the main export was salt. The capital then developed around the fort.

The salt heaps at the Cargill Salt Mine look like snow covered mountains.

The salt heaps at the Cargill Salt Mine look like snow covered mountains.

During the era of slavery, the Dutch West India Company used African slaves to harvest salt. Salt was one commodity that Bonaire had in endless supply, although it took back breaking slave labour to produce it. In the early days of the industry, the most important use for salt was in the preservation of food, since refrigeration was still centuries away.

At this ‘solar salt mine’ seawater is pumped into evaporation ponds where the water is evaporated through the action of the sun and wind. As the water becomes more briny the level of algae increases and this results in the vivid pink colour. Once all the water has evaporated the remaining salt crystals can be harvested.

Salt piles at the Cargill salt mine, Bonaire.

Salt piles at the Cargill salt mine, Bonaire.

Most of the salt produced here is for industrial use, you will not find shops on the island selling cute souvenir packets of locally produced salt for you to use in your cooking.

Accommodation

Bonaire offers a range of accommodation options, especially dive resorts. Many hotels are located on the coast and allow guests direct access to the reef. High season prices apply from December to April. With limited options on the island, it’s best to book ahead using an online agent such as booking.com

I stayed on the coast, just south of the airport, at Bellefonte Oceanfront Hotel. The hotel has a wooden jetty, which provides direct access to the reef. 

Eating Out

There are restaurants catering for all budgets scattered around the island, especially in Kralendijk.

The best supermarket on the island is Van Den Tweel, located at 39 Kaya Industria, Kralendijk.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Bonaire – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

Flights into Bonaire arrive at Flamingo International Airport. Previously, Insel Air provided most connections between its hub at Curaçao airport and Bonaire, however, since its demise, other carriers have taken up the slack. The airport serves as a hub for Divi Divi Air and EZAir.

The following airlines provide services to/ from Flamingo International Airport:

Airport Transport

From the airport, taxis are available. There is no public transport on the island, your best option is to hire a car from the airport.

By Sea

There are no scheduled ferry services connecting Bonaire to any other island. The only way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

The current Cruise Ship schedule is available here.

Getting Around

Rental car on Bonaire.

My rental car on the west coast of Bonaire.

There is no public transport on the island. You either hire a car, take a taxi or walk. The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car. You should book in advance as demand sometimes outstrips supply. The island can be circumnavigated in just a few hours or in one day at a more relaxed pace.

Visiting the Slave Huts in my rental car.

Visiting the Slave Huts in my rental car.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Bonaire Travel Guide Bonaire Travel Guide Bonaire Travel Guide Bonaire Travel Guide Bonaire Travel Guide

Curaçao Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
Penha House and the colourful Handelskade line the waterfront in downtown Willemstad.

Curaçao Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Curaçao Travel Guide!

Date Visited: March 2015

Introduction

Curaçao lies just to the north of the coast of Venezuela, east of Aruba and west of Bonaire and is one of the three ‘ABC’ islands (Aruba, Bonaire & Curaçao), which are all former Dutch colonies and are now part of the Dutch Caribbean.

Old Town of Willemstad, Curaçao.

Old Town of Willemstad, Curaçao.

Location

Curaçao forms part of the southwestern arc of the Lesser Antilles island chain and is located just 60 km (37 mi) north of the South American mainland and Venezuela (click the link to view my Venezuela Travel Report).

Aruba lies 113 km (70 mi) to the west, while Bonaire lies 82 km (51 mi) to the east.

A colourful map of Curaçao adorns a souvenir beach towel.

A colourful map of Curaçao adorns a souvenir beach towel.

History

Colourful Dutch-style buildings line the iconic Handelskade in Willemstad, the capital of Curaçao.

Colourful Dutch-style buildings line the iconic Handelskade in Willemstad, the capital of Curaçao.

The island was originally inhabited by Arawak Indians until the Spanish arrived in 1499 and enslaved them. The Dutch then took control of the island in 1634.

The Dutch East Indies Company founded the capital, Willemstad. The island had always been ignored because it lacked gold deposits but the natural harbour at Willemstad was ideal for trade.

Curaçao Flag.

The flag of Curaçao.

Commerce, shipping and piracy became the most important activities on the island and the island became a centre of the slave trade in the Caribbean. When slavery was abolished, many former slaves remained on the island and today Curaçao is the only one of the ABC islands with a substantial Afro population.

Sunset at Jan Thiel beach, which lies on the south coast of Curacao.

Sunset at Jan Thiel beach, which lies on the south coast of Curacao.

Curaçao is the largest and most populated (150,000) of the ABC islands. Public transport is available but limited. The best way to explore is to hire a car. I spent five days touring the island but you could cover all the sites in 2-3 days at a relaxed pace.

While Aruba attracts mainly American tourists, Curaçao attracts mainly Dutch tourists, who account for 32% of arrivals.

The Melocactus is a cactus species common to Curaçao.

The Melocactus is a cactus species common to Curaçao.

Curaçao Liqueur

image

The name “Curaçao” has become associated with a shade of blue, because of the deep-blue version of the liqueur named Curaçao.

Curaçao’s most popular alcoholic beverage was discovered by accident when the Spanish Valencia orange was brought to the island, but unable to flourish in the climate. Instead, a bitter-tasting orange – the Lahara – was spawned.

The genuine Curaçao liqueur is made of the peels of the Laraha. It is produced in 5 different colours, the original clear liqueur, the famous Blue, Green, Red and Orange.

The Laraha plantation is on the east side of the island and has just 45 trees. Each tree produces on average 150 to 200 fruits and are harvested twice a year.

Free factory visits are available at Landhuis Chobolobo in Willemstad from Monday to Friday.

Sightseeing

Willemstad

A view of the colourful Handelskade, Willemstad.

A view of the colourful Handelskade, Willemstad.

Formerly the capital of the Netherlands Antilles (dissolved in 2010), the capital and largest city of Curaçao (population: 125,000), Willemstad is located on a deep natural harbour.

Many Dutch colonists grew affluent from the slave trade, and the city built impressive colonial buildings. Curaçao architecture blends Dutch and Spanish colonial styles. The wide range of historic buildings in and around Willemstad has resulted in the capital being designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The iconic, Dutch-style, Penha House dominates the Handelskade in downtown Willemstad.

The iconic, Dutch-style, Penha House dominates the Handelskade in downtown Willemstad.

The historic city centre is small and compact and can be explored easily on foot in a day. The downtown area consists of two districts: Otrobanda, the cultural centre of the city and Punda, they are separated by the St. Anna bay inlet. Willemstad is build around a natural harbour called the ‘Schottegat’.

The St. Anna bay inlet is bridged by the Queen Emma Pontoon bridge. This floating bridge pivots open to allow small and large (container ships) to pass through into the harbour. This is a great place for photography.

The Dutch-style Penha House stands out like a yellow beacon on the colourful Handelskade in downtown Willemstad.

The Dutch-style Penha House stands out like a yellow beacon on the colourful Handelskade in downtown Willemstad.

In Punda you will find the colourful Handelskade, Amsterdam Fort, the main shopping area, the old food market (Plaz Bien), the oldest surviving (sand floor) synagogue in the Caribbean and the floating market, where boats come over from Venezuela to sell their produce. It’s all very lively and vibrant and worth the majority of your time in the city.

Display at the Kurá Hulanda Museum in Willemstad.

Display at the Kurá Hulanda Museum in Willemstad.

The highlight of Otrabanda (English: Other side) is the Kurá Hulanda Museum aka “Slave Museum”. The museum chronicles the origin of man, the African slave trade and West African empires. It is situated on the site of a former slave yard and merchant’s home.

Curaçao Beaches

The protected waters of Playa Lagun are popular with families and provide excellent snorkelling.

The protected waters of Playa Lagoon are popular with families and provide excellent snorkelling.

Like Aruba, the best swimming beaches are located on the protected leeward side of the island (west coast) rather than the exposed windward side (east coast).

Unlike Aruba, the Curaçao coastline is made up of many protected coves rather than long stretches of white sandy beaches. All of these coves provide excellent snorkeling and diving opportunities.

Shete Boka National Park

Curaçao Travel Guide: Natural limestone bridge in Shete Boka National Park, Curaçao.

Natural limestone bridge in Shete Boka National Park, Curaçao.

Worth a stop on the rugged east coast is this national park. Trails lead from a parking area to natural limestone bridges on the shore, sea-turtle sanctuaries, a big blowhole and isolated little beaches in narrow coves. Boka Tabla, a cave in the cliffs facing the water, is the most popular and closest walk.

The limestone here is razor sharp so good walking shoes are recommended – not your favourite pair of Havaianas.

Hato Caves

The interior of the Hato cave on Curaçao.

The interior of the Hato cave on Curaçao.

Located on the north side of the island, a short drive from the airport, the small Hato Cave is more than 300.000 years old, and has the distinction of being the largest cave on the island.

The cave has been open to visitors since 1990 and can be accessed by foot, after climbing 49 steps. Over millions of years, the island was formed in ‘terraces’ and while most caves are to be found in the second terrace, the Hato Cave is uniquely found in the third terrace of the island.

Accommodation

Sunset at Jan Thiel beach Curaçao.

Sunset at Jan Thiel beach Curaçao.

Like neighbouring Aruba, this tourist haven is loaded with accommodation options catering for all budgets. Unlike Aruba accommodation is scattered around the island rather than concentrated in one beach-side location.

High season prices apply from December to April. Willemstad is far more interesting than Oranjestad (Aruba) so staying in the capital is worth considering. While on the island, I stayed at Jan Thiel beach which is located at the southern end of the island. The Hibiscus Beach House is a friendly Dutch-run B&B, which I would highly recommend.

Best to book ahead using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

There are restaurants catering for all budgets scattered around the island.

One place worth exploring for cafes, bars, restaurants and nightlife is the trendy Willemstad neighbourhood of Pietersmaai

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Curaçao – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

Flights into Curaçao arrive at Curaçao International Airport (IATA: CUR) which is located on the north coast of Curaçao, 12 kilometres (7.5 mi) from Willemstad. The airport serves as a main base for Divi Divi Air as well as EZAir and offers daily connections to many islands in the Caribbean region, South America, North America and Europe.

The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from CUR:

Airport Transport

From the airport, taxis are available to any point on the island. There is no public transport from the airport but shuttle services can be booked. Your best option is to hire a car from the airport as public transport on the island is very limited.

By Sea

There are no scheduled ferry services connecting Curaçao to any other island. The only way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

Cruise Ships dock at one of two terminals (Mega Pier Cruise-Terminal and Mathey Wharf) which are relatively close to each other, both at walking distance to the main attractions of Willemstad. You can view the current Cruise Ship Schedule here.

Getting Around

Curaçao License Plate

The license plate of my rental car on Curaçao.

Bus services on the island are provided by Autobusbedrijf Curaçao. Public transport on Curaçao is very limited. The two major bus stations are at Punda and Otrobanda.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car. The island can be covered in a day if you rushed around but at a more leisurely pace would require 2-3 days.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Curaçao Travel Guide Curaçao Travel Guide Curaçao Travel Guide Curaçao Travel Guide Curaçao Travel Guide

Aruba Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
Dutch-style architecture in Oranjestad, Aruba.

Aruba Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Aruba Travel Guide!

Date of Visit: March 2015

Introduction

Aruba has branded itself “One Happy Island”. The island lies just north of the coast of Venezuela, and is one of the three ‘ABC’ islands (Aruba, Bonaire & Curaçao), which are all former Dutch colonies and are now part of the Dutch Caribbean.

Aruba Party Bus

An Aruba party bus.

A tourist haven, which is especially popular with American vacationers, the west coast (on the leeward side) is home to fine white, sand beaches and many large resorts. The east coast (on the windward side) is less popular due its exposed position with few sandy beaches and rough seas with treacherous currents.

Aruba Flag

The flag of Aruba.

The year-round temperature is almost constant at about 27°C with little rainfall. Aruba lies outside the Caribbean hurricane belt, making it the perfect playground for the sun-worshipping tourist.

Aruba Travel Guide: Eagle beach, Aruba.

The inviting white sands of Eagle beach, Aruba.

Location

Part of the ABC islands, along with Curaçao and Bonaire, Aruba lies 113 km (70 mi) to the west of Curaçao, and 189 km (102 mi) to the west of Bonaire.

A flat, dry, arid island (there are no rivers), Aruba is the 2nd smallest of the ABC islands (after Bonaire), being 30 km in length and 9 km wide at its widest point.

Turks Head Cactus, Aruba.

Turks Head Cactus, Aruba.

Sightseeing

Oranjestad

Dutch-style Architecture Aruba

Dutch-style architecture in downtown Oranjestad.

The capital and largest city on the island, Oranjestad (English: Orange Town) was built around Fort Zoutman shortly after it was built in 1796. The city was named in 1820 after King William I of the Netherlands. The compact city centre is a pleasant place to stroll and can easily be covered in half a day.

Aruba Flag Oranjestad

The flag of Aruba flying in downtown Oranjestad.

The port is able to accommodate three mega cruise ships at a time. This delivers up to 15,000 day-tripping tourists into the city of 35,000. Not surprisingly the main activities in the city are duty free shopping.

When ships are in town the crowded downtown area is best avoided.

Stadhuis (Town Hall), Oranjestad, Aruba.

The Dutch-style Town Hall (Stadhuis) in Oranjestad.

My favourite cafe in Oranjestad is De Suikertuin located at Wilheminastraat 64. This is a Dutch cafe offering a very good breakfast and lunch menu and excellent coffee.

De Suikertuin Cafe Aruba

The perfect cage, with the door always open, in the garden of ‘De Suikertuin’ cafe in Oranjestad.

Arikok National Park

Arawak Cave Paintings, Fontein Cave, Aruba.

Arawak cave paintings inside Fontein Cave.

The Arikok National Park takes up approximately 18 percent of the island and was one of the highlights of my visit. You should allow half a day in the park. The best way to see the park is with a hire car or by joining a local tour.

A view of Fontein cave, Aruba.

A view of Fontein cave, Aruba.

Inside the park are some of the island’s oldest Arawak cave paintings, which can be seen inside Fontein Cave.

Aruba Travel Guide: Aruban Whip-tail Lizard.

Indigenous Aruban whip-tail lizard

Some of the most visible of all the wildlife on the island are the lizards. The Aruban Whip-tail lizard can be seen in the National Park and elsewhere on the island.

Vader Piet Wind Farm, Aruba.

Wind turbines at the Vader Piet Wind Farm.

Beaches

Most visitors come to the island for one reason – the white powdery sand beaches. They mostly stay in the big resorts that are concentrated in one small area of the island from Palm Beach to Eagle Beach (featured on the main photo).

At the southern end of the island is Baby beach, which is situated in a protected cove and offers good snorkeling.

At the northern end of the island is Malmok beach, which is located in a residential neighbourhood and also offers good snorkeling.

Eagle Beach is one of the most inviting beaches on Aruba.

Eagle Beach is one of the most inviting beaches on Aruba.

Hiring snorkel gear on the island is not easy. Most resorts and hotels will lend equipment to their guests but do not rent. I found an aquatic shop on Eagle beach, which allowed me to hire gear, otherwise your only option is to purchase your equipment from a local dive shop.

The beaches on the windward side of the island are not protected and as such are exposed to fierce weather, strong currents and have mostly rocky shorelines.

Accommodation

This tourist haven is loaded with accommodation options catering for all budgets, from the huge five-star resorts strung along the white sand beaches of  Palm Beach and Eagle Beach to hostels in downtown Oranjestad.

High season prices apply from December to April.

I stayed inland at Paradera Park Apartments, which I would recommend for those who wish to self cater.

Best to book ahead using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

There are lots of restaurants around the island, especially in the beach-side resort areas of Palm Beach and Eagle Creek. In these areas you will find many American chain restaurants such as Hooters, Hard Rock Cafe etc.

Due to the presence of ostrich farms on the island, ostrich meat is also available.

Aruba Travel Guide: A curious ostrich at the Aruba Ostrich farm.

A curious ostrich at the Aruba Ostrich farm.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Aruba – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

Interior of Insel air flight from Manaus to Aruba.

Interior view of my Insel air flight from Manaus to Aruba, on which I was one of just two passengers.

By Plane

Flights into Aruba arrive at Queen Beatrix International Airport (IATA: AUA), which is located on the coast, 3 km south of Oranjestad. The airport serves as a hub for Aruba Airlines.

AUA has flight services to the United States, most countries in the Caribbean, the northern coastal countries of South America, Canada and some parts of Europe, notably the Netherlands. The airport offers US Border Pre-clearance facilities with American tourists accounting for 55% of all arrivals.

The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from AUA:

Airport Transport

From the airport, taxis are available to any point on the island.

If you wish to take a bus downtown you can do so at the bus stop on the main road outside the airport. Bus services on the island are provided by Arubus.

By Sea

There are no scheduled ferry services connecting Aruba to any other island. The only way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

All cruise ships dock at the busy cruise ship port in downtown Oranjestad, a modern facility which can accommodate up to five ships at a time. The current Cruise Ship schedule is available here.

Getting Around

Aruba Travel Guide: My rental car on Aruba.

My rental car on Aruba.

Bus services on the island are provided by Arubus, however the network is not very comprehensive and does not cover the remote parts of the east coast.

Aruba License Plate

The license plate on my Aruba rental car.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car. The island can be covered in a day if you rushed around but at a more leisurely pace would require 2-3 days.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Aruba Travel Guide Aruba Travel Guide Aruba Travel Guide Aruba Travel Guide

Venezuela’s Gran Sabana Region Travel Report

9 years ago
Darren McLean
The refreshing and spectacular, Jasper Creek Waterfalls, a highlight of the Canaima National Park.

Venezuela Travel Report

Welcome to the taste2travel Venezuela Travel Report!

Date visited: February 2015

Introduction

This report covers a side trip from Brazil into the Gran Sabana (Great Savannah) region of Venezuela – also known as the Guianan Savannah.

Venezuela

The Savannah region offers one of the oldest (two billion years) and most unusual landscapes in the world, with rivers, waterfalls and gorges, deep and vast valleys, impenetrable jungles and savanna’s that host large numbers and varieties of plant species, a diverse fauna and the isolated table-top mesas locally known as tepuis.

The most famous of the tepuis is Mount Roraima (2,800 m), which forms the border between three nations – Venezuela, Guyana and Brazil with 85% of the mountain in Venezuelan territory.

A map of the Guyana shield.

A map of the Guyana shield.
Source: Wikipedia

The landscape in this region is part of the Guiana Shield. Mount Roraima occupies the south-eastern corner of Venezuela’s 30,000-square-kilometre (12,000-square-mile) Canaima National Park. The mountain is the highest point in Guyana and the highest point of the Brazilian state of Roraima.

A table-top mountain, Mount Roraima is bounded on all sides by cliffs which rise 400 metres (1,300 ft).

A table-top mountain, Mount Roraima is bounded on all sides by cliffs which rise 400 metres (1,300 ft).

Safety

Venezuela today is always in the news for the wrong reasons. The country is suffering after years of political and economic mismanagement under Chavez and now under his successor, Nicholas Maduro.

Crime is rampant, the country has one of the highest homicide rates in the world and tourists do get kidnapped. This is not a place for a Club Med holiday. You should make your own assessment of the risks, depending on your destination, before you arrive.

All locals advised me to avoid Caracas.

I personally experienced no problems while in La Gran Sabana region. The locals were all very friendly and welcoming and it was business as usual in Santa Elena.

Tourism is an important source of revenue in this part of the country and the locals are very keen to ensure nothing happens to tarnish the industry.

Many businesses are suffering due to the lack of tourists. The only visitors in Santa Elena during my visit were Brazilian day-trippers on shopping trips taking advantage of the cheap prices.

Money Matters

The official currency of Venezuela is the bolívar.

The official currency of Venezuela is the bolívar.

While many aspects of Venezuela are currently unfavourable, the turmoil has created a favourable economic environment for travelers. Travel costs in Venezuela are the cheapest on the continent.

At the time of my visit (February 2015) the exchange rate was:

  • Official rate: USD$1 = VEF 6.35 (fixed)
  • Black market rate: USD$1 = VEF 150

Venezuela has the highest inflation rate of any country in South America. As of today (13th of March 2016) the black market rate is: USD$1 = VEF 1,211

It is illegal to publish black market exchange rates inside Venezuela, if you wish to check the current rate you can do so via the American website – dolartoday.

You should ensure you take enough cash – USD or, if you are entering from Brazil – Brazilian Reals, to last for the duration of your trip.

Exchanging with traders on the street is illegal but very common. In downtown Santa Elena you will find money traders on every street corner holding huge wads of Bolivares. I did one exchange while the trader was having a friendly conversation with a uniformed policeman.

Whatever you do – you should ensure you never expose yourself to the official exchange rate by using an ATM or credit card, otherwise you will find travel costs in Venezuela to be the most expensive on the continent.

Sightseeing

A map of Canaima National Park which includes Angel Falls, the world's highest waterfall.

A map of Canaima National Park which includes Angel Falls, the world’s highest waterfall.

Canaima National Park

The Jasper Creek Waterfalls are one of many waterfalls in the Canaima National Park.

The Jasper Creek Waterfalls are one of many waterfalls in the Canaima National Park.

The Savannah region covers an area of 10,820 square kilometres and includes the Canaima National Park, the 2nd largest park in Venezuela. The highlight of my trip was a visit to the park, all of the photos here were taken in the park.

As smooth as polished marble, Jasper is a mineral formed from Quartz.

As smooth as polished marble, Jasper is a mineral formed from Quartz.

One of the most beautiful sites in the park is Jasper Creek waterfalls. The creek gets its name from the fact that the water flows over a smooth bedrock of mostly red and black jasper.

One of many waterfalls in Canaima National Park.

One of many waterfalls in Canaima National Park.

The park is home to numerous waterfalls, which are popular swimming spots for the locals.

A family from Caracas enjoying a refreshing dip in one of the waterfalls at Canaima National Park.

A family from Caracas enjoying a refreshing dip in one of the waterfalls at Canaima National Park.

 

This was the perfect place to cool off after a hot day of touring Canaima National Park.

This was the perfect place to cool off after a hot day of touring Canaima National Park.

Getting There

Gran Sabana Region (Venezuela) Travel Report: View of the countryside in Canaima National Park, with the table-top Mount Roraima in the background.

View of the countryside in Canaima National Park, with the table-top Mount Roraima in the background.

Local tour operators in Santa Elena can organise day trips into the park. I travelled in a 4WD with four others travellers. The cost for the trip was $12 per person.

A bustling border town and main service centre for the region. Santa Elena is the first stop in Venezuela for travelers entering by land from Brazil.

In this small, friendly town, there are plenty of hostels, hotels and travel agents who can organise trips to Mount Roraima or the Canaima National Park and other places in the Savannah region.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Santa Elena de Uairén is plentiful but fills up quickly. With the current economic crisis, prices of goods in Venezuela are ridiculously cheap, so hotels are often booked out by visiting Brazilian shoppers.

Best to book ahead using an online agent such as booking.com

In Santa Elena de Uairén I stayed in the Hotel Le Gran Sabana, which is located on the outskirts of town on the highway to the border.

There are plenty of hostel options downtown, especially on Calle Urdaneta.

Eating Out

There are many good restaurant options in Santa Elena, especially in the backpacker neighbourhood on Calle Urdaneta.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Venezuela – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

Santa Elena de Uairén has an airport, but as of February 2016, all commercial service has been suspended.

Venezuelan airlines Rutaca and Conviasa used to operate flights between this airport and Ciudad Guayana or Ciudad Bolívar; you should check their websites to see if air service has been restored at the time of your visit.

By Road

To/ From Brazil

Coming from Brazil, you can reach the Brazilian border town of Pacaraima from Boa Vista by several daily buses (the earliest at 7:00 am) that leave from Terminal do Caimbé bus station. There are also shared taxis. The ride takes up to 3:30 hours on a single-lane but good paved road.

To cross the border from Pacaraima to Santa Elena, you need to take both Brazilian and Venezuelan stamps at the respective immigration checkpoints first, then return to Pacaraima, where shared taxis are waiting for passengers. Pacaraima lies right next to the border (200 m walk from the bus terminal), Santa Elena is 12 km away.

If you are coming from Santa Elena you should take the taxi only to the border as the bus terminal in Pacaraima is a short walk from the border.

Some nationalities require visas for Brazil – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting Around

There are taxis to get you around Santa Elena de Uairén although the town centre is small and compact and easily covered on foot.

Currently bus service exists between Ciudad Guayana and Santa Elena de Uairén, but car travel is recommended to allow for frequent stops in interesting places.

The journey from Caracas takes 22 hours and can be done in a semi-cama (reclining seat) bus.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the region include:

Venezuela Travel Report Venezuela Travel Report Venezuela Travel Report Venezuela Travel Report l Report

Guyana Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
A rainbow over Kaieteur Falls, Guyana.

Guyana Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Guyana Travel Guide!

Date of visit: January 2015 &  October 2015

Introduction

Guyana is the fourth-smallest country in South America (after Uruguay, Suriname and French Guiana). It is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the north, Brazil to the south and southwest, Suriname to the east and Venezuela to the west. It’s capital and largest city is Georgetown.

History

Originally inhabited by several indigenous groups, Guyana was settled by the Dutch before coming under British control in the late 18th century. It was governed as the plantation economy of British Guiana until independence in 1966.

The legacy of British rule is reflected in the country’s diverse population, which includes Indian, African, Chinese, Portuguese, Amerindian, and European groups.

Guyana also has the distinction of being the only South American nation in which English is the official language. The majority of the population, however, speak Guyanese Creole, an English-based creole language with slight Dutch, Arawakan and Caribbean influences.

Guyana is called the ‘Bread Basket’ of the Caribbean. Major crops include rice, sugar, coffee, cocoa, coconuts, edible oils, copra, fruit, vegetables, and tobacco. Livestock include cattle, sheep, pigs, goats, and chickens.

In addition to being part of the Anglophone Caribbean, Guyana is one of the few Caribbean countries that is not an island in the West Indies.

The Caribbean Community (CARICOM), of which Guyana is a member, is headquartered in Georgetown.

Guyana Travel Guide: Fashion Parade in Georgetown

Fashion Parade in Georgetown

Guyana or Guiana

A map of the Guyana shield.

A map of the Guyana shield.
Source: Wikipedia

‘Guyana’ is derived from an Amerindian language and means “land of many waters”. The region comprised the large shield landmass north of the Amazon River and east of the Orinoco River.

In colonial times, there were five Guiana’s, these were (in geographical order along the coast):

  • Spanish Guiana – now the Guayana region of Venezuela
  • British Guiana – now the sovereign nation of Guyana
  • Dutch Guiana – now the sovereign nation of Suriname
  • French Guiana – now a French department known in French as ‘Guyane’
  • Portuguese Guiana – now the Brazilian state of Amapa

When Guyana declared independence, it changed its name from British Guiana to Guyana.

An historical map showing the five Guyanas.

An historical map showing the five Guyanas.

Flag

The flag of Guyana.

The flag of Guyana.

The flag of Guyana, known as The Golden Arrowhead, has been the national flag since the country become independent from the Great Britain in 1966.

Following a competition, the winning design for the flag was one created by an American, Whitney Smith, who later became a prominent vexillologist (flag historian).

The flag features a red background, green hoist triangle, and stylised yellow arrowhead. The Guyanese reversed the green and red and added a black fimbriation (narrow border) to the triangle and one of white to the arrowhead.

The green represents the jungles and fields that cover most of the country, as reflected in the national anthem, “Green Land of Guyana”. The white symbolises the many rivers, which provide the basis for the indigenous name Guyana (“land of waters”), while red represents zeal and sacrifice in nation-building, and the black symbolises perseverance.

The yellow arrowhead recalls the original Amerindian population of the area but also represents the golden future that citizens are committed to building on the basis of national mineral resources.

Georgetown

Georgetown is Guyana’s largest city (population: 250,000) and its capital. It is situated on the Atlantic Ocean coast at the mouth of the Demerara River and it was nicknamed ‘Garden City of the Caribbean’.

Through the years, Georgetown has been governed by the Dutch, the French, the Dutch again and finally the English until independence.

Georgetown was named in 1812 in honour of King George III.

The city is located on a flat coastal plain. The elevation of the land is one metre below the high tide level. This low elevation is protected by a retaining wall known as the seawall (originally constructed by the Dutch) to keep the ocean out and an innovative network of canals with kokers to drain the city of excess water.

Most of the sites of interest are conveniently located in the compact city centre and can be seen on foot within a day. The streets of the city are arranged on a grid format so orientation is easy. The best way to explore the city is to meander the tree-lined streets, exploring the beautiful wooden colonial buildings and churches.

Christ Church in Georgetown, Guyana.

Christ Church in Georgetown, Guyana.

The centre of the city is dominated by the large Stabroek Market (1792) containing the prominent cast-iron clock tower. Stabroek was the name the Dutch gave to the city the 2nd time they took control. The market is interesting but you should be extra vigilant with your personal belongings here. Likewise in the immediate neighbourhood where the streets are chaotic, crowded, rough and edgy.

The iconic wrought-iron clock tower of Stabroek Market in Georgetown.

The iconic wrought-iron clock tower of Stabroek Market in Georgetown.

For the best coffee in town (not to mention great food and good WiFi), you can not beat Oasis cafe. It’s located downtown on Carmichael street.

Kaieteur Falls

The majestic and awe-inspiring, Kaieteur Falls - a truly spectacular sight.

The majestic and awe-inspiring, Kaieteur Falls – a truly spectacular sight.

If there is one ‘must see’ attraction in Guyana then without a doubt it is the majestic and incredible Kaieteur falls. This is a site that must be seen to be believed and there is no better way of approaching it than from the air.

The falls are not accessible by road so they have largely escaped commercialism and development. On the day I visited there were just 8 other visitors – my fellow passengers on the Air Services flight.

Kaieteur Falls is the world's widest single drop waterfall. The falls plunge 226 metres in a single drop.

Kaieteur Falls is the world’s widest single drop waterfall. The falls plunge 226 metres in a single drop.

The falls are located in the middle of a huge, remote forest. It is four times higher than Niagara Falls and about twice the height of Victoria Falls. It is a very impressive single drop waterfall.

Depending on the season, Kaieteur falls vary in width from 76 metres (250 ft) to 122 metres (400 ft).

Depending on the season, Kaieteur falls vary in width from 76 metres (250 ft) to 122 metres (400 ft).

The 6 km trail approaching the falls is home to a variety of birds, and the minuscule golden poison frog, which produces a potentially fatal poison. The frogs live inside the leaves of the Giant Tank Bromeliads, which act as natural cisterns.

Giant-tank Bromeliads provide the perfect habitat for the Golden poison frog.

Giant-tank Bromeliads provide the perfect habitat for the Golden poison frog.

 

A Golden poison frog, a member of the Poison Dart Frog family at Kaieteur Falls.

A Golden poison frog, a member of the Poison Dart Frog family at Kaieteur Falls.

The golden poison frog’s skin is densely coated in an alkaloid toxin, one of a number of poisons common to dart frogs. This poison prevents its victim’s nerves from transmitting impulses, leaving the muscles in an inactive state of contraction. This can lead to heart failure or fibrillation. Some native people use this poison to hunt by coating darts with the frog’s poison.

A Golden poison frog inside a Giant-tank Bromeliads at Kaieteur falls.

A Golden poison frog inside a Giant-tank Bromeliads at Kaieteur falls.

Getting There

You can reach the falls either by boat along the lower reaches of the Potaro river, or the easy – and most popular way – by one hour flight in a small aircraft from Georgetown.

Flights from Ogle Airport are currently offered by Air Services Limited. Refer to their website for schedule and pricing.

Flights leave Georgetown at 1 pm and return at 5 pm. Included in the cost is a two-hour guided nature walk conducted by a local Amerindian guide.

There are two ways to purchase your ticket:

Local way: book direct with the airline for $145.

Tourist way: book with your hotel or a downtown travel agent and pay about $190. This includes return airport transfers plus lunch at the airport.

Iwokrama Forest

A Parrot Snake at Iwokrama Forest.

A Parrot Snake at Iwokrama Forest.

Covering 3710 square kilometres of central Guyana, the Iwokrama Forest is one of the four last pristine tropical forests in the world.

Access to the forest is either via private vehicle or one of the micro buses running from Georgetown to Lethem.

A curious Spider Monkey nearby the Atta Lodge in the heart of the Iwokrama Forest.

A curious Spider Monkey nearby the Atta Lodge in the heart of the Iwokrama Forest.

I stayed at Atta Lodge, which is located at the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, Guyana’s only canopy walk. The walkway is suspended 30 m above the forest floor and provides an excellent viewing platform for birds, primates etc.

All lodge reservations plus transport arrangements must be booked and paid for in advance in Georgetown. I made my arrangements through Wilderness Explorers.

The 'highway' connecting Guyana and Brazil passes through the Iwokrama forest

The ‘highway’ connecting Guyana and Brazil passes through the Iwokrama Forest

Note: There are no transport options out here unless you hire an (expensive) private 4WD. You could try your luck hitching a ride on the Georgetown – Lethem road

Lethem

Lethem lies on the Takutu River, which forms the border with Brazil, opposite the Brazilian town of Bonfim. It’s a sleepy transit town. If you get stuck here there are a couple of hotel options.

For more on crossing the border, see the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

Accommodation

Like the other countries in the Guiana’s, accommodation in Guyana is limited. It’s best to book in advance using an online agent such as booking.com

In Georgetown I have stayed at Herdmanston Lodge, which is a well known favourite and the more centrally located Halito Hotel & Residence (my preference).

Eating Out

Food in Guyana is influenced by the different ethnic groups and is typical of other Anglo Caribbean countries. Curry and Chinese are popular.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Guyana – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

International flights arrive at Cheddi Jagan International Airport. The airport is located 41 kilometres (25 mi) south of Guyana’s capital, Georgetown.

The following airlines provide international flights to Timehri:

Ogle International Airport is primarily used for domestic flights and is located on the Atlantic Ocean coast 10 km from Georgetown. Flights to Kaieteur Falls depart from this airport.

The following airlines provide international flights to Ogle:

  • LIAT – flies to/from Barbados
  • Trans Guyana Airways – flies to/from Paramaribo (Zorg en Hoop) plus domestic destinations in Guyana.

From either airport you can get downtown via taxi.

By Road/ River

To/ From Suriname

The ferry service between Guyana (Molson Creek – Corentyne) and Suriname (South Drain) is operated by the Canawaima Ferry Company.

Services are either once a day or twice a day in each direction, depending on season. There is usually a ferry from Guyana at 1 pm.

South Drain is located 32 km south of Nieuw Nickerie on a fast paved road.

On either side you will find taxis and shared buses to transport you to Georgetown (3 hours), Paramaribo (5 hours) or Nieuw Nickerie (30 mins). Roads are paved and in excellent condition on both sides, although the driving is erratic and risky.

Most nationalities require either a tourist card or a visa for Suriname – check your requirements prior to arrival.

To/ From Brazil

The border between Brazil and Guyana is the bridge over the Takutu river between the Brazilian town of Bonfim and the Guyanese town of Lethem. The bridge includes a neat lane-changing design to get you from the left side of the road onto the right side.

Formalities are conducted on the respective sides of the river. There are local taxis, which will ferry you between the two posts.

On the Brazilian side you have shared taxis or buses which will take you to the city of Boa Vista, the capital of Roraima state.

On the Guyanese side you have micro buses that will transport you to Georgetown (20 hours) via the Iwokrama Rain forest (6 hours).

Note: Do not cross the border into Brazil with Guyanese dollars – they are impossible to change outside of Guyana.

Some nationalities require visas for Brazil – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting Around

There are frequent mini buses connecting all of the main centres in Guyana. Most buses from Georgetown commence their journey on the crowded, chaotic streets outside Stabroek market.

All taxis are registered under the term “Hackney Carriage” and carry the letter H at the beginning of their number plates. You can flag these in the street.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the region include:

Guyana Travel Guide Guyana Travel Guide Guyana Travel Guide Guyana Travel Guide Guyana Travel Guide Guyana Travel Guide

Suriname Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
Dutch-style colonial buildings in the UNESCO-listed old town of Paramaribo.

Suriname Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Suriname Travel Guide!

Date of Visit: January 2015

Introduction

At 163,820 square km, Suriname is the smallest country in South America. Despite its size, Suriname is one of the most ethnically diverse countries in the region, with a population (576,000) comprised of descendants of African slaves, Dutch and British colonialists, Indian, Indonesian and Chinese indentured laborers and indigenous Amerindians.

The pulsating heart of the country is the capital, Paramaribo, a city loaded with lots of gorgeous Dutch-style architecture. The streets of the photogenic old town, which is a UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site, are lined with wooden buildings which would look more at home in The Netherlands rather than on the edge of a steamy jungle in South America. Grassy squares, parks and an old Dutch-built fort complete the picture-perfect setting.

In between sightseeing, the restaurants in the old town offer a plethora of cuisines which reflect the ethnic diversity of the country. The local brew, Parbo beer, is brewed by Heineken and, in my opinion, tastes even better! A great way to unwind after a day of sweaty exploration.

Away from the capital, the jungles of Amazonia are a short drive, with the excellent Brownsberg National Park (see ‘Sightseeing’ below) offering great hiking and the chance to spot some highly toxic frogs!

Location

Located on the remote north-eastern coast of South America, Suriname is bordered by French Guiana to the east, Guyana to the west and Brazil to the south. It is one of the three Guiana’s.

The bulk of the small land area is occupied by dense jungle, the northern extreme of the vast Amazon system. Almost all of the population can be found along the coast, while the sparsely populated interior is home to small Amerindian communities who are the original inhabitants of the region.

History

Originally inhabited by indigenous tribes, Suriname was explored and contested by European powers before coming under Dutch rule in the late 17th century. In 1975 Suriname declared independence from the Netherlands. It is the only officially Dutch speaking country in South America.

Suriname is culturally considered to be a Caribbean country, and is a member of the Caribbean Community (CARICOM).

Historic Dutch church in Paramaribo.

Historic Dutch church in Paramaribo.

People

The people of Suriname are among the most diverse in the world, spanning a multitude of ethnic, religious, and linguistic groups. As a plantation colony, Suriname was heavily dependent on manual labour, and after the abolition of slavery, there was a requirement to import labourers to make up for the labour shortfall.

The colourful Arya Dewaker Hindu temple, Meerzorg, Paramaribo.

The colourful Arya Dewaker Hindu temple, Meerzorg, Paramaribo.

The Dutch brought in contract labourers from the Dutch East Indies (modern Indonesia) and India (through an arrangement with the British). In addition, during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, small numbers of labourers were brought in from China and the Middle East.

The biggest mosque in the country is located on the Keizerstraat in Paramaribo.

The biggest mosque in the country is located on the Keizerstraat in Paramaribo.

The official spelling of the country’s English name was changed from “Surinam” to “Suriname” in January 1978, but “Surinam” can still be found in English. A notable example is Suriname’s national airline, Surinam Airways.

Flag

The flag of Suriname.

The flag of Suriname.

Adopted on the 25th of November 1975, upon the independence of Suriname, the flag is formed by five horizontal bands of green (top, double width), white, red (quadruple width), white, and green (double width). There is a large, yellow, five-pointed star cantered in the red band.

The star represents the unity of all ethnic groups, the red stripe stands for progress and love, the green for hope and fertility, and the white bands for peace and justice.

Currency

The Surinamese dollar.

The Surinamese dollar.

The Surinamese dollar (Sr$) is the official currency of Suriname, trading under the international code of SRD.

Bank notes are issued by the Central Bank of Suriname in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 dollars. The dollar is divided into 100 cents, with coins issued in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 25, 100, 250 cents.

The current exchange rate against the US dollar is:

US$1 = SR$14.5 

You can check the current exchange rate here.

Paramaribo

Located on the banks of the Suriname River, near its outlet to the Atlantic ocean, Paramaribo is the capital and largest city of Suriname. The city has a population of roughly 240,000 people, almost half of Suriname’s population.

I arrived in Paramaribo from the border town of Albina. The city is very much the focal point of the country. The historical, Dutch-built, old town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002.

The wooden interior of St. Peter and St. Paul Basilica in Paramaribo.

The wooden interior of St. Peter and St. Paul Basilica in Paramaribo.

The city centre is both grand and charming, containing beautiful colonial Dutch-style buildings arranged around grassy squares and streets. Most of the buildings have been restored but some are still in need of renovation and, apparently, UNESCO have threatened in the past to remove the World Heritage listing if the buildings aren’t maintained.

Dutch colonial buildings in the UNESCO-listed old town of Paramaribo.

Dutch colonial buildings in the UNESCO-listed old town of Paramaribo.

A highlight is the impressive Fort Zeeland which is located on the riverbank. The fort was originally built by the French, then occupied by the British then eventually captured by the Dutch. Like the other capitals of the Guiana’s, Paramaribo is small and compact, with most sights within a short stroll and easily covered on foot in one day.

Old Dutch letterbox in Paramaribo.

Old Dutch letterbox in Paramaribo.

In contrast to the old town, as you move further up the river things become much more vibrant, gritty and chaotic, the beautiful Dutch colonial architecture being replaced by ugly, modern monuments-to-bad-taste. Here you will find the main markets and most of the activity in town.

Historic Dutch Colonial architecture can be seen throughout Paramaribo.

Historic Dutch Colonial architecture can be seen throughout Paramaribo.

The population of the capital is very diverse and consists of Creole (African descent), Hindustani (East Indian descent), Multi-racial, Maroon (descendants of escaped African slaves), Javanese (Indonesian descent), Indigenous (descendants of native population), Chinese (descendants of 19th-century contract workers) and smaller numbers of European (primarily of Dutch and Portuguese descent), Lebanese and Jews. In the past decades Brazilian, Guyanese and new Chinese immigrants have settled in Paramaribo.

The diverse ethnic population ensures a culinary feast awaits the curious (and hungry) traveller. Around the city you will find cafes and restaurants selling a variety of food from India (Roti is popular), Dutch favourites such as pancakes, Bitterballen and Poffertjes, Indonesian favourites such as satay, gado-gado and loempia and Middle Eastern snack bars selling kebabs – just to name a few.

The local beer, Parbo, is brewed by Heineken and is very refreshing on a hot humid day.

Brewed by Heineken, the local brew, Parbo, is very quaffable and a nice way to cool down on a hot humid day.

Brewed by Heineken, the local brew, Parbo, is very quaffable and a nice way to cool down on a hot humid day.

After one day spent discovering the sights of the historic city centre I hired a bike on the second day, took it across the river in a pirogue and cycled to the historic village of Nieuw Amsterdam.

This is a nice day trip and provides the opportunity to get out into the countryside. The right bank of the river is very rural compared to the left bank. There is an old fort to be explored at Nieuw Amsterdam and an interesting historical museum.

Lotus Flower in Nieuw Amsterdam.

Lotus Flower in Nieuw Amsterdam.

Brownsberg

Three-striped poison dart frog at Brownsberg National Park.

Three-striped poison dart frog at Brownsberg National Park.

A nice day trip from Paramaribo is to Brownsberg National Park. Trips can be organised through any hostel and include transport, guide and lunch.

The park is located just 130 km south of Paramaribo and is certainly worth a visit. This is the most northern part of the Amazon rainforest. The park offers views of Lake Brokopondo and the chance to spot wildlife on nature trails while walking to various waterfalls.

Hoogmoed harlequin toad at Brownsberg National Park.

Hoogmoed harlequin toad at Brownsberg National Park.

Nieuw Nickerie

Nieuw Nickerie is the 3rd largest city in Suriname and lies on the mouth of the Nickerie river on the Atlantic coast, opposite the mouth of the Corantijn river (Courantyne) and the Guyanese town of Corriverton (Springlands), to which a ferry service operates.

See the ‘Getting There‘ section below for information on crossing the border to Guyana.

Bigi Pan

Black-collared hawk at Bigi Pan Nature Reserve.

Black-collared hawk at Bigi Pan Nature Reserve.

The one reason to come to Nieuw Nickerie is to visit the nearby nature reserve of Bigi Pan.

The reserve is 135,000 hectares in area and comprises a coastal lagoon which is influenced by the tides of the sea and is fed with both salt water and fresh water from the interior. The result is an impressive estuary, teeming with birds.

Suriname Travel Guide: Caribbean flamingos at Bigi Pan Nature Reserve.

Caribbean flamingos at Bigi Pan Nature Reserve.

I organised a boat trip through my hotel, on the trip we saw flamingo’s, scarlet ibis, black-collared hawk, woodpeckers, ibis and more. Lunch was also included.

An adult Scarlet Ibis at Bigi Pan Nature Reserve.

An adult Scarlet Ibis at Bigi Pan Nature Reserve.

If you wish to stay longer in the reserve there are guest houses built on stilts over the lagoon.

A juvenile Scarlet Ibis at Bigi Pan Nature Reserve.

A juvenile Scarlet Ibis at Bigi Pan Nature Reserve.

Accommodation

Like the other countries in the Guiana’s, accommodation in Suriname is limited. It’s best to book in advance using an online agent such as booking.com

I stayed in a private apartment in Paramaribo, which I booked through booking.com

Eating Out

Lots of variety to be found in this very ethnically diverse country.

Visa Requirements

Most nationalities require either tourist cards or visas for Suriname – check your requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

International flights arrive at Johan Adolf Pengel International Airport (formerly called Zanderij International Airport). It is located 45 km south of Paramaribo and serves as the base for the national carrier Surinam Airways.

The following airlines provide connections to Paramaribo:

  • Caribbean Airlines – flies to/ from Port of Spain
  • Copa Airlines – flies to/ from Panama City
  • Fly All Ways – flies to/ from Camaguey, Havana, Santiago de Cuba
  • Gol Transportes Aéreos – flies to/ from Belem
  • KLM – flies to/ from Amsterdam
  • Surinam Airways – flies to/ from Amsterdam, Aruba, Belém, Cayenne, Curaçao, Georgetown–Cheddi Jagan, Miami, Port of Spain
  • Trans Guyana Airways – flies to/ from Georgetown (Guyana)
  • TUI fly Netherlands – flies to/ from Amsterdam

From the airport you can get downtown via either taxi or bus.

By Road/ River

To/ From French Guiana

Crossing the river Maroni between French Guiana (Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni) and Suriname (Albina) is very easy and straightforward.

The Immigration posts for each country are located on opposite banks of the river. There are many private pirogues that will ferry you across the river.

Once you cross you have taxis and shared transport that can get you to Paramaribo (2 hours) or to Cayenne (3 and a half hours). Roads on both sides are in excellent condition.

Some nationalities require visas for French Guiana  – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

To/ From Guyana

The ferry service between Suriname (South Drain) and Guyana (Molson Creek – Corentyne) is operated by the Canawaima Ferry Company.

Services are either once a day or twice a day in each direction, depending on season.

South Drain is located 32 km south of Nieuw Nickerie on a fast paved road. You can reach here by taxi / bus. When I crossed I arrived at the port at 8 am (the opening time of the immigration office) in time to board the 9 am ferry to Guyana.

There is usually a return ferry from Guyana at 1 pm.

On either side you will find taxis and shared buses to transport you to Georgetown (3 hours), Paramaribo (5 hours) or Nieuw Nickerie (30 mins). Roads are paved and in excellent condition on both sides, although the driving is erratic and risky.

Some nationalities require visas for Guyana – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting Around

There are frequent micro buses and shared taxis connecting all the major centres.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the region include:

Suriname Travel Guide Suriname Travel Guide Suriname Travel Guide Suriname Travel Guide Suriname Travel Guide

French Guiana Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
A red Macaw on Îles du Salut.

French Guiana Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel French Guiana Travel Guide!

Date of Visit: January 2015

Introduction

French Guiana (French: Guyane), is an overseas department and region of France, located on the north Atlantic coast of South America in the Guyanas.

It borders Brazil to the east and south, and Suriname to the west. The country has a population of 250,109 inhabitants, 50% of whom live in the capital Cayenne.

‘Guyana’ is derived from an Amerindian language and means “land of many waters”. As such, this country is not an ideal beach destination as the coastline is lined with huge rivers, which dump brown water into the Atlantic Ocean. If you are looking for blue water you need to head to the Caribbean.

Part of France since 1946, Guiana joined the European Union, and its official currency is the euro. The region is the most prosperous territory in South America with the highest GDP per capita. A large part of Guiana’s economy derives from the presence of the Guiana Space Centre, now the European Space Agency’s primary launch site near the equator.

Sightseeing

Saint Georges

I crossed the Oiapoque river from Brazil to the French Guianese town of Saint Georges. It’s strange to arrive in a town in South America and see the French flag and the European Union flag flying in the main square.

St. Georges is a quiet little transit town, nothing to do here except get your passport stamped and organise onward transport. Upon arrival, I reported to the immigration office where a friendly French gendarme stamped my passport in less than 30 seconds – a very easy entry for me but Brazilians require visas to visit their neighbour. See ‘Getting There‘ below for more details on crossing the border.

After entering the country I went to the bank to withdraw some Euros. I was about to discover that the cost of living in this French territory is very European.

I arrived in St. Georges early in the morning to see the locals walking out of the town boulangeries with freshly back baguettes under their arms – how very French. So different from Brazil where breakfast consists of chocolate cake.

I had to wait for my micro bus to fill with passengers for the 2 hour trip to Cayenne (excellent, fast road) so I took breakfast at a nice cafe on the main square. Everything in this town is a 5 minute walk.

From St. Georges I travelled onto the capital, Cayenne.

The newly-opened Oiapoque bridge connects Brazil and French Guiana.

The newly-opened Oiapoque bridge connects Brazil and French Guiana.

Cayenne

I arrived in Cayenne overland from Brazil. Upon arrival it was clear I was now in a very different part of the world. The population in the city is manly Creole with some Haitian, Brazilian, European, and Asian added to the mix.

The architecture is very different – lots of colourful wooden houses painted in tropical shades of turquoise, pinks and yellows. The music and most other cultural aspects are Creole influenced. It felt more like the Caribbean than South America.

The city is nice and compact, wonderfully quaint, welcoming and relaxing. In one day you can visit most sights on foot. In a city of 56,000 people, traffic is never heavy.

If you are in Cayenne during Carnival (January – March) you should ensure you catch the Sunday parade.

Place du Coq, Cayenne.

Located in downtown Cayenne, Place du Coq is named after the rooster which sits atop a column in the middle of the square.

Cayenne Pepper

A Cayenne Pepper Plant.

A Cayenne Pepper Plant. Image: Franz Eugen Köhler, Köhler’s Medizinal-Pflanzen

What is Cayenne pepper? For all the facts you can refer to this site.

Despite the pepper being named after Cayenne, most peppers are now grown elsewhere in the world. There are no specific purveyors of Cayenne pepper in Cayenne.

From Cayenne I travelled along the coast to Kourou – home of the Guiana Space Centre and jumping off point for trips to Îles du Salut.

Kourou

The Guiana Space Centre at Kourou.

The Guiana Space Centre at Kourou.

The Centre Spatial Guyanais (CSG) is a French and European spaceport near Kourou. The location for the space centre was chosen because it fulfils the two major geographical requirements of such a site:

  • it is quite close to the equator, so that the spinning earth can impart some extra velocity to the rockets for free when launched eastward, and
  • it has uninhabited territory (in this case, open sea) to the east, so that lower stages of rockets and debris from launch failures cannot fall on human habitations.
This Ariane rocket can carry a payload of 10t into space - enough to lift my car (foreground) into orbit.

This Ariane rocket can carry a payload of 10t into space – enough to lift my car (foreground) into orbit.

You can visit the Space centre on a guided visit (well worth it). The visits are popular and spaces are limited so it’s best to book ahead in advance. You can do so by contacting CSG.

Inside the launch control centre at the Kourou Space Centre.

Inside the launch control centre at the Kourou Space Centre.

Îles du Salut

Entrance to prison cells on Îles du Salut.

Entrance to prison cells on Îles du Salut.

The Îles du Salut (in English: Islands of Salvation, so called because the missionaries went there to escape plague on the mainland) are a group of small islands about 11 km off the coast near Kourou.

Squirrel Monkey on Îles du Salut.

Squirrel Monkey on Îles du Salut.

The islands were part of a notorious penal colony from 1852 onward for only the worst criminals of France. The islands were featured in the novel Papillon, by Henri Charrière. He was imprisoned here for 9 years.

The prison was shut down in 1953. Today the islands are a popular tourist destination and are full of wildlife.

You can reach the islands by catamaran from Kourou. You need to reserve and pay in advance. I visited with Tropic Alizés, who I would recommend.

French Guiana Travel Guide: Capuchin monkey on Îles du Salut.

Capuchin monkey on Îles du Salut.

Mana

This tiny town north of Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni is home to a remarkable restaurant – Le Buffalo.

If you’re in this part of the country it is worth the detour to eat here. The restaurant itself is housed in a simple wooden building with an equally simple interior. It is located on a quiet side street in this sleepy town (population: 800).

However the chef is a properly trained French chef who has relocated to Mana and brought his culinary skills with him. During your meal he will appear in the restaurant in his white chef’s uniform (including the ‘toque’ – traditional chef’s hat) to ensure everyone is enjoying their meals.

I especially recommend the carpaccio of buffalo.

Local ex-pats drive here from more distant towns for weekend lunches.

Tel: 594344280
Address: 36 Rue Javouhey, Mana 97360, French Guiana

The beaches near to Mana are nesting sites for the huge leather-back turtles.

From Mana I made the short journey south to Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni, my exit point from French Guiana.

Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni

With 40,000 inhabitants this is the 2nd largest town in French Guiana and the border crossing to Suriname.

The town was founded in 1858, it was formerly the arrival point for prisoners, who arrived at the Camp de la Transportation, the buildings of which have been restored and can be visited.

The town is small and compact and easily seen in half a day.

Entering Suriname from here is very easy – see the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

Camp de la Transportation in Saint Laurent du Maroni.

Camp de la Transportation in Saint Laurent du Maroni.

Accommodation

Hotels are in short supply in Cayenne (and elsewhere in the territory). It’s always best to book in advance using an online agent such as booking.com

In Cayenne, I stayed downtown at Hotel Le Dronmi, which I would recommend. The hotel is conveniently located to everything of interest.

Eating Out

This is a former French colony – need I say more. Lots of good food available throughout the territory.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for French Guiana – check your requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By plane

French Guiana’s main international airport is Cayenne – Félix Eboué Airport, located south of the city centre.

The following airlines provide flights to/ from Cayenne:

Air Caraïbes – flies to/ from Fort-de-France, Paris-Orly, Pointe-à-Pitre
Air France – flies to/ from Fort-de-France, Paris-Orly, Pointe-à-Pitre, Miami
Air Guyane – flies to/ from Grand Santi, Maripasoula, Paramaribo, Saint-Laurent du Maroni, Saül
Azul Brazilian Airlines – flies to/ from Belém, Fortaleza
Surinam Airways – flies to/ from Belém, Paramaribo

There are no bus services to the airport and of course the local taxi’s take full advantage of this by charging a flat fare of €35 to downtown Cayenne.

By Road/ River

To/ From Suriname

Crossing the river Maroni between French Guiana (Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni) and Suriname (Albina) is very easy and straight-forward.

The Immigration posts for each country are located on opposite banks of the river. There are many private pirogues who will ferry you across the river.

Once you cross you have taxis and shared transport that can get you to Paramaribo (2 hours) or to Cayenne (3 and a half hours). Roads on both sides are in excellent condition.

Some nationalities require visas for Suriname (e.g. Australian) – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

To/ From Brazil

Update: since this was written the long-unused suspension bridge between St George d’Oiapok (French Guiana) and Oiapoque (Brazil) is now operational.

There are nightly buses from Macapa to the border town of Oiapoque. The road is mostly paved and the trip takes about 10 hours. I arrived at the small bus station in Oiapoque at 5 am and was informed I would need to wait until 8 am for the Brazilian immigration office to open. I joined my fellow transit passengers and slept in the bus station where there were some comfortable wooden benches to stretch out on.

At 8 am I took a taxi to the immigration office to get my exit stamp then down to the port for the crossing by pirogue to St. Georges.

From the river you can see the huge new bridge, which links French Guiana with Brazil. This was completed in 2011 at a cost of $33 million but still remains unopened. The French are waiting for the Brazilians who have promised to have all infrastructure in place and the bridge open in time for the Rio Olympics in 2016.

Once you reach the dock in St. Georges you will be greeted by micro bus drivers who can transport you to Cayenne. You will first need to get your passport stamped at the Gendarmerie (Police Station), which is inconveniently located on the outskirts of town (a 15 minute walk).

Some nationalities require visas for Brazil (e.g. Australian) – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting Around

Public transport is sporadic throughout the country. The best option, allowing you to maximise your time, is to hire a car. I did a one-way rental from Cayenne to Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the region include:

French Guiana Travel Guide French Guiana Travel Guide French Guiana Travel Guide French Guiana Travel Guide French Guiana Travel Guide

Cayenne Carnival

9 years ago
Darren McLean
A Cayenne Carnival Participant.

Cayenne Carnival

Welcome to the taste2travel Cayenne Carnival feature!

Date of Visit: January 2015

Introduction

Carnival in French Guiana takes place each year between Epiphany in early January and Ash Wednesday in February or March. Every Sunday during this period, there is a parade on the streets of Cayenne, making this the longest running of any carnival in the Caribbean region.

Feature: Cayenne Carnival

Carnival à la Cayenne is a cultural tradition of the French Guianese Creole, its origin traced to carnival customs long practised in Europe. It debuted during the beginning of colonisation when settlers took part in carnival, forbidding the slaves from participating. Defying the ban, the slaves practised carnival in clandestine ways, seeing it as a way to regain some freedom.

French Guiana

The ornate handmade masks continue being/ are an integral part of Mardi Gras culture. To this day they symbolise the notion of freedom, of escaping class constraints and social demands. Wearing masks during the festivities lets us all become equal, individuals can mingle with the masses and ultimately everyone can be whoever they’d like, at least for a few weeks.

Feature: Cayenne Carnival

Feature: Cayenne Carnival

Feature: Cayenne Carnival

 

Accommodation

Hotels are in short supply in Cayenne (and elsewhere in the territory). It’s always best to book in advance using an online agent such as booking.com

I stayed downtown at Hotel Le Dronmi, which I would recommend. The hotel is conveniently located to everything of interest plus it’s on the parade route.

Eating Out

This is a former French colony – need I say more. Lots of good food available in this town.

A great place to chill out and people watch is the terrace at Les Palmistes. This is the quintessential bar/restaurant in Cayenne. Located across from the square of the same name.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for French Guiana – check your requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By plane

French Guiana’s main international airport is Cayenne – Félix Eboué Airport, located south of the city centre. There are two flights a day to Paris served by Air France and Air Caraïbes with services also to Martinique, Guadeloupe, Paramaribo (Suriname) and Belém (Brazil).

While there are no buses serving the airport, you can either rent a car or pay an extortionate amount (€35 to central Cayenne) for an airport taxi.

By road

From both neighbouring countries (Brazil and Suriname), you will need to cross a river by ferry into French Guiana. The border crossings are easy and straight-forward.

From Brazil, you will arrive in Saint-Georges de l’Oyapock from where you can travel by bus to Cayenne. In 2011, a newly built bridge was completed (at a cost of $33 million) linking Brazil and French Guiana, but it is still yet to be opened.

From Suriname you will step off the ferry in Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni from where you can take a bus to Iracoubo and transfer to another going to Cayenne.

Getting Around

Public transport is sporadic throughout the country. The best option is to hire a car. This is a French territory so roads are in excellent condition.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the region include: