This is a Djibouti Travel Guide from taste2travel.
Date Visited: March 2023
Introduction
Djibouti has been a country which has fascinated me for many years. I’d never met anyone who had travelled there and it was a complete mystery.
When I told friends and family that I was heading to Djibouti, they had no idea that such a country even existed! It is a tiny little country, tucked away in a remote corner of eastern Africa, yet it occupies a strategic location at the entrance to the Red Sea.
The official languages of Djibouti are French and Arabic, with Somali and Afar also widely spoken.
The country has a predominantly Muslim population, with Islam being the official religion. Despite this, a sizable French expat population ensures that items such as pork and alcohol are available on restaurant menus.
Djibouti is strategically located at the entrance to the Red Sea.
Djibouti is so strategically located that several countries (France, the United States, and China) maintain military bases there.
The United States military maintains its only African base in Djibouti. This base, Camp Lemonnier, recently made news headlines when it was used for the airlifting of US diplomats out of Khartoum.
Exploring the quiet countryside of Djibouti requires either a rental car or a car with a driver.
Although not a cheap travel destination, quiet, unassuming, little Djibouti is a surprising travel destination – a country of very friendly, and welcoming, inhabitants who always made me feel welcome.
The main expenses will be accommodation and tours. With a lack of public transport in the countryside, you will need to either rent a car or hire a car with a driver to reach most sights.
A salt-encrusted animal skull, at a souvenir stand at Lake Assal.
Due to its unique location at the meeting point of three tectonic plates, the country offers some astounding scenery in the form of Lake Assal and the surrounding volcanic field. This is a country whose geography is still a ‘work in progress’.
A highlight of Djibouti, Lake Assal is a two-hour drive west of Djibouti City.
Djibouti has a hot and arid climate, with temperatures often reaching up to 45°C during the day. I visited during the month of April which was ideal with temperatures around 30°C.
One of several fissure vent volcanoes which were created during the November, 1978 eruption in the area around the Ardoukoba volcano.
Djibouti is an interesting destination which can easily be covered in 7-10 days, although tours to remoter regions are pricey!
My Guide, Akram, exploring one of the small lava tunnels which was formed during the eruption of the Ardoukoba volcano.
Location
Djibouti is located in the Horn of Africa, on the eastern coast of the continent. It is bordered by Eritrea to the north, Ethiopia to the west and south, and Somalia to the southeast.
Due to its strategic location at the entrance to the Red Sea, Djibouti is a major trans-shipment port.
Djibouti is situated at the entrance to the Red Sea and is strategically located at the crossroads of one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes, making it a hub for international trade and commerce. It serves as a major trans-shipment port.
The country has a coastline of approximately 300 km and covers a total land area of 23,200 square kilometres (8,957 square miles), which makes it about the size of the US state of New Jersey.
Tectonic Location
This map shows Djibouti’s location at the tri-point of three tectonic plates. Source: Wikipedia
Just as important is Djibouti’s tectonic location, which has shaped, and continues to shape, the country in every way!
The country is situated near a tectonic triple junction where three tectonic plates meet – African, Arabian, and Somali.
Due to a westward rift movement between the Arabian and Somali plates, the Gulf of Tadjoura has formed over millions of years, which affectively slices Djibouti into two halves.
A map of Djibouti showing the Gulf of Tadjoura which will cut further inland over time. Source: https://www.worldatlas.com/maps/djibouti
Just to the west of the Gulf, Lake Assal lies in a depression at -155 m (509 ft) below sea level, making it the lowest point on the African continent and the third lowest point on earth.
Over the next millions of years, this rift movement will result in the earth’s surface sinking further with Lake Assal eventually becoming part of the sea bed for a much larger Gulf of Tadjoura.
A view of Ghoubbet Bay, and lava fields, near Lake Assal.
Fast forward tens of millions of years into the future and this rifting will eventually split Djibouti into two sections and could leave Ethiopia with a coast of its own.
People
An Afar souvenir seller at Lake Assal, trying to sell me a chunk of Obsidian.
As of 2023, Djibouti has a population of about 1,035,000 people, with more than half (600,000) of the population residing in Djibouti City – the capital and only city of any real size.
The largest ethnic group in Djibouti is the Somali people, who make up about 60% of the population. The Afar people, who are mainly found in the northern part of the country, make up about 35% of the population.
Most of the people in Djibouti practice Islam, which is the official religion of the country. Arabic and French are the official languages, but Somali and Afar are also widely spoken.
Military Personnel
Due to its strategic location, Djibouti is home to a number of military bases. As of 2,021 – 4,000 U.S. Army troops, 1,350 French Army troops, 600 Japanese Army troops, 400 Chinese Army troops, and an unknown number of German Army troops were stationed at various bases throughout Djibouti.
Tour Companies
When I first arrived at Djibouti Airport from Addis Ababa, I was offered a ride into town to my hotel by some friendly locals who were collecting a friend from the same flight.
One of the passengers in the car, Ahmed, runs a tour company called Zo Voyages. He offered to arrange any tours for me while I was in Djibouti.
It was Ahmed who arranged for his friend, Akram Saleh (a freelance driver and guide), to take me to Lake Assal. This was a great day trip!
If you need the services of a tour company while in Djibouti, I can recommend Ahmed, who you can contact at the following:
The flag of Djibouti has two equal horizontal stripes – the top stripe is blueand the bottom stripe is green.
In the centre of the flag, there is a white isosceles triangle with its base along the hoist side. Inside the white triangle, there is a red, five-pointed, star.
The Djiboutian flag flying at the Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel.
The bluestripe on the flag represents the sea, the greenstripe represents the land, and the white triangle represents peace. The redstar in the centre of the flag represents unity.
Djibouti flags for sale at a shop in Djibouti City.
The current design of the flag was adopted on June 27, 1977, when Djibouti gained its independence from France.
Currency
In the style of the former French franc, Djiboutian franc bank notes are especially large.
The Djiboutian franc (International Code: DJF) is the official currency of Djibouti. The currency, which is issued by the Central Bank of Djibouti, was introduced in 1949 to replace the French franc, which was used during the colonial era.
The Djiboutian franc is subdivided into 100 centimes. However, due to the low value of the currency, centimes are rarely used in practice, and most transactions are rounded to the nearest franc.
The highest denomination note, the DJF 10,000 bank note is worth US$56.20.
The banknotes in circulation in Djibouti come in denominations of 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, and 10,000 francs. The coins in circulation are in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, and 500 francs.
Exchange Rate
The franc is pegged to the US dollar at the rate of US$1 = 177.721 DJF
A set of uncirculated 2,000 DJF bank notes which I acquired from a local bank.
For visitor’s who remember the days of the old, over-sized, French franc bank notes, the large Djiboutian franc bank notes will bring back memories.
I could never get them to fit in my wallet and they are way too big for the draws of cash tills. Cashiers have to squash them into the till draws, so they are always creased, crushed and generally messy.
A set of uncirculated 2,000 DJF bank notes which I acquired from a local bank.
If you wish to acquire a note in pristine condition, you will need to ask at a local bank, where I always found the staff to be friendly and helpful.
Money Matters
In terms of hard currency, (i.e. USD cash), travelling in the Horn of Africa can be problematic. In countries such as Ethiopia and Eritrea, the purchase of hard currency is illegal, yet many payments (visa’s etc.) need to be made in USD cash.
If travelling to Eritrea, you will need to carry enough USD cash to cover all expenses since credit cards are not accepted anywhere.
If travelling in Ethiopia, you can affectively halve all costs by changing USD cash “unofficially”.
Officially in Ethiopia, USD$100 = 5,400 ETB while on the black market, USD$100 = 10,000 ETB (as of March 2023).
Unofficial transactions should never be conducted on the street, but in a safe, secure, indoor environment, such as a hotel lobby.
ATMs
Dual currency ATMs, which dispense both DJF and USD cash, can be found everywhere in Djibouti city.
The good news is that ATMs in Djibouti dispense both DJF and USD cash. Djibouti is a great place to replenish your reserves of USD cash!
All common credit cards are widely accepted at ATMs in Djibouti, including Mastercard, Visa and even American Express.
Hallelujah!
SIM Cards
Djibouti Telecom is the only telco in Djibouti.
Telephone and internet services in Djibouti are provided by the government owned, monopoly operator – Djibouti Telecom.
Generally, I found wi-fi speeds to be painfully slow in Djibouti, with an average speed of just 2Mbps!
Patience is required!
You can easily purchase a local SIM card from the Djibouti Telecom store which is located inside Bawadi Mall. You will need to bring your passport.
I purchased a tourist SIM card, for DJF 1,000 (US$5.62) which was valid for 3 days and offered 500 DJF call credits and 5 GB of data.
Travel Costs
Not cheap!
Which is not surprising, since most former French colonies are expensive! The biggest expense will be accommodation and any tours.
Sample costs:
Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): DJF 120 (US$0.67)
Water (0.33 litre bottle): DJF 170 (US$0.96)
Glass of Beer: DJF 1,000 (US$5.62)
Cappuccino: DJF 500 (US$2.81)
Taxi within downtown Djibouti City: DJF 500 (US$2.81)
During my time in Djibouti, I explored Djibouti City and the sights around Lake Assal. I was also keen to visit Lake Abbe, but with a 2-day tour costing US$600, I decided to pass.
Djibouti City
“I Love Djibouti”, outside the Djibouti National Assembly (parliament).
Overlooking the Gulf of Tadjoura and the Red Sea, Djibouti City is the capital and largest city of Djibouti. Home to 600,000 souls, Djibouti is a small, relaxed, laid-back capital which is easily covered on foot.
Djibouti city is a melting pot of various ethnic groups, including Somali, Afar, Arab, and French, which creates a unique blend of cultures.
As of 2021, there were an estimated 34,005 refugees and asylum seekers in Djibouti, with the top countries of origin being neighbouring Somalia (14,132) and Ethiopia (12,742).
The locals are generally friendly and crime rates are low. I spent more than a week in the city and never felt threatened or unsafe. Walking around in the evening isn’t a problem. People generally are courteous and kind. They were happy to see a tourist!
A post box in the European Quarter of Djibouti City.
Despite being the cultural, economic, and political centre of Djibouti, there are few sights of interest for tourists. Rather, the charm of Djibouti lies in its crumbling colonial-era buildings which line the streets of the European Quarter, a district which is pleasant to explore.
A typical colonial-era building in Djibouti’s European Quarter.
The focal point of the European Quarter is Place du 27 Juin 1977 (Place Ménélik). With its whitewashed houses and Moorish arcades, this vast square is a strange mix of the Arab and the European. It’s lined with cafés, bars, restaurants and shops.
The historic city centre of Djibouti was constructed during the French colonial period using madrépore, a relatively friable limestone. Most of the buildings were designed and built in the distinctive French colonial architecture style.
A colonial-era building in the European Quarter of Djibouti City.
To the south of the European Quarter, the African Quarter is much messier and more chaotic. This is where many locals live in rudimentary housing.
Lake Assal
A view of Lake Assal, the lowest point in Africa and the third lowest point on Planet Earth.
Lake Assal is a saline lake located in the central-western part of Djibouti, about a 2-hour drive west from Djibouti City.
Due to ongoing ‘rifting’, Lake Assal will one day be inundated by the nearby Gulf of Tadjoura.
The lake is situated in the Danakil Desert and is one of the most unique and beautiful natural wonders of the country.
A view of Lake Assal, Djibouti.
Due to a westward rift movement between the Arabian and Somali plates, the nearby Gulf of Tadjoura is slowly pushing further west and will one day inundate the area now occupied by Lake Assal.
A view of Lake Assal, a future sea bed in the making.
Essentially, Lake Assal is a future sea bed, currently being formed on land. One day, as the tectonic plates separate further, the lake will be inundated by the encroaching Gulf of Tadjoura.
Lake Assal is a 2-hour drive west of Djibouti City on good sealed roads.
The lake is approximately 155 metres (508 ft) below sea level, making it the lowest point in Africa and the third lowest point on earth.
Any metallic surfaces simply rust in the corrosive air of lake Assal.
It is also considered one of the most saline bodies of water in the world, with a salt concentration of up to 10 times higher than that of the ocean.
A view of Lake Assal, a highlight of Djibouti.
The lake is surrounded by majestic and rugged landscapes, including volcanic formations and rocky hills.
An Afar souvenir seller at Lake Assal wanted to sell me this Obsidian boulder for US$50! It was far too heavy to carry!
The shores of the lake are coated with a thick layer of white salt, creating a stunning contrast with the deep blue color of the water.
Bags of salt, and salt-encrusted animal skulls, for sale at a souvenir stand at Lake Assal.
Overall, Lake Assal is a true natural wonder and a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Djibouti and definitely worth the US$200 tour cost.
A view of the Gulf of Tadjoura near Lake Assal.
Salt Mining
A Chinese-funded salt works, which is located on the shores of Ghoubbet Bay, near to Lake Assal.
With more than six million tonnes of salt being deposited in the area every year, and the thickness of Assal’s crust varying between 20 and 80 metres, this is a resource which mankind could not simply ignore.
Enter the Chinese (no surprise), who have established a salt processing plant on the shores of Gulf of Tadjoura. From here salt is exported directly to China.
Djibouti’s Grand Canyon
Djibouti’s Grand Canyon, actually Belvedere Sul Canyon, is located at a point where three tectonic plates are pulling apart – i.e. rifting.
Djibouti’s Grand Canyon, which is called Belvedere Sul Canyon, is located at a point where three tectonic plates (Africa, Arabia and Somalia) are slowly pulling apart – i.e. rifting.
This is an impressive sight and shows the full effect of ‘rifting’. The canyon is located on the right-hand side of highway RN9, as you drive towards Lake Assal.
My freelance driver/ guide – Akram Saleh – who is a competent driver and very knowledgeable guide, parked at the Grand Canyon car park.
Freelance Tour Guide
I toured Lake Assal with Akram Saleh, who is a very knowledgeable guide and a very good driver.
His fee for the day trip to Lake Assal was US$200.
If you wish to organise a tour, Akram can tailor any tour to suit your needs. You can contact him on Instagram at:
The area around Lake Assal is ‘ground zero’ for tectonic plate movements and a hotbed of geographical activity, with the landscape dominated by, the recently erupted, Ardoukoba volcano.
Basaltic lava fields, which were created during the eruption of the Ardoukoba volcano in 1978.
The Ardoukoba volcano is fed by rift magma which emanates from a volcanic fissure which is part of the Great Rift Valley fault system.
The road through the Ardoukoba volcanic lava field winds its way past recently erupted volcanoes and around basaltic lava flows.
As a result of the most recent eruption in November of 1978, basaltic lava flows cover the landscape. Also present are fumaroles, lava tunnels and deep fissures.
Straddling a tectonic divide with one foot on the Africa plate and one on the Arabian plate, one of many features in the vicinity of the Ardoukoba volcano.
It all makes for fascinating sightseeing!
My Guide, Akram, exploring one of the small lava tunnels which was formed during the eruption of the Ardoukoba volcano.
The Government of Djibouti has initiated a proposal with UNESCO to declare the Lake Assal zone including the Ardoukoba volcano and its surroundings as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Video:
My Guide, Akram Saleh, made a fumarole smoke by inserting his cigarette into the gaseous crevasse – a simple but effective chemistry lesson!
Eating Out
There’s no shortage of cafes, restaurants and bars in Djibouti City.
The cuisine of Djibouti is similar to the cuisine of neighbouring countries such as Ethiopia. The same staples, such as Injera, tibes etc. are served in Djibouti.
Due to the French influence and the presence of French expats, it’s also possible to enjoy some fine French cuisine while in Djibouti City.
Restaurants
Djibouti City is home to many local, budget restaurants and some fine dining options which are owned by French expats.
Some of my favourite dining options in downtown Djibouti City:
Menelik Hotel – Restaurant Tadiourah
Menu at Restaurant Tadiourah at the Menelik Hotel in Djibouti.
Located on the 1st floor of the Menelik hotel in downtown Djibouti City, the Restaurant Tadiourah is a reliable standby which serves both international and local cuisine.
I was in town during Ramadan, and was happy that this restaurant, which is hidden away inside the hotel, was always open and never stopped serving meals. It’s a favourite haunt for visiting Ethiopian businessmen.
Restaurant La Chaumière
Steak with Pepper Sauce – one of two delicious steak meals which I enjoyed at La Chaumière restaurant.
Located across the square from the Menelik hotel, and a short walk from Hotel Atlantic, RestaurantLa Chaumière is popular for its French and international cuisine, with a particular emphasis on seafood and steaks.
I ordered steak one evening and was so impressed, I returned on another occasion, just to try the steak with a different sauce.
Perfectly clean and inviting, the restaurant also offers a good selection of wines, beers and other drinks to accompany the fine meals.
Pizzaiolo Central
The excellent pizza Paysant at Pizzaiolo Central in Djibouti City.
The pizza served at Pizzaiolo Central in downtown Djibouti is surprisingly good. Despite Djibouti being an Islamic country, the menu here features real ham (pork) and real bacon.
I recommend the pizza Paysant (Peasant’s pizza) which features bacon, egg and cheese – its breakfast on a pizza.
Pizzaiolo Central is located around the corner from everything else listed in this section.
Cafes
A superb mille-feuille served with an excellent café latte at Han’s Cake in Djibouti City.
Han’s Cake
There is just one café worth mentioning – the best in town – Han’s Cake, which is located opposite the Hotel Atlantic in downtown Djibouti City.
It is also located alongside all the restaurants listed in this section.
Open from 7 am to 10 pm, both the food and the cakes are divine. The coffee is the best in town.
Bars
Despite Djibouti being an Islamic country, there are plenty of bars serving (always imported) alcohol.
Most restaurants also serve alcohol.
Accommodation
Atlantic Hotel
My residence during my stay in Djibouti City – the wonderful Atlantic Hotel.
During my stay in Djibouti City, I took up residence at the wonderfully comfortable Atlantic Hotel, which is located in the heart of the downtown area.
My room at the Atlantic Hotel in Djibouti City.
All of the dining options mentioned in the ‘Eating Out‘ section are located just a short stroll from this hotel.
A view of my room at the Atlantic Hotel in Djibouti City.
If you wish to stay in the heart of Djibouti city, the Atlantic hotel is a top choice.
Breakfast at the Atlantic Hotel in Djibouti City.
Rooms, which cost around US$160 per night can be booked on Booking.com and include a buffet breakfast.
The hotel also offers rental cars.
Djibouti Palace Kempinski
The Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel is the first 5-star hotel in the Horn of Africa.
The first 5-star hotel in the Horn of Africa, the Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel is a wonderful choice for those travelling on a business expense account or for those wishing to splurge.
The very quiet lobby of the Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel.
With plush rooms starting at US$300 per night, this is the best choice in Djibouti City and the finest hotel anywhere in the region.
A view of the Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel.
During my visit, the hotel seemed to be empty. I asked about occupancy and was told that it was low due to Ramadan.
The pool at the Djibouti Palace Kempinski is the most popular pool in town.
Even if you are not staying at the Djibouti Palace Kempinski, it is worth spending DJF 4,500 (USD$25) for a day pass for the swimmingpool.
This is the best place in town to cool off, and, on the day of my visit, was popular with visiting French military personnel, who used their standard khaki-issued backpacks to carry their pool accessories.
Airbnb
Due to the number of expats living in Djibouti, there are many Djibouti apartments available for rent on Airbnb which can save you on the cost of accommodation and allow you to further reduce costs by self-catering.
If you are self-catering, the best places to shop for groceries are the Géant hypermarket, which is located inside Bawadi Mall (the only mall in town) or the Nougaprix supermarketwhich is located downtown.
Tip: When booking apartments on Airbnb, check the location. Some apartments are located well away from the centre, in the middle of quiet neighbourhood’s.
There’s no point staying somewhere which is far from the centre and requires expensive taxi rides whenever you wish to go anywhere.
Visa Requirements
My passport entry stamp for Djibouti.
All visitors to Djibouti must obtain either a visa on arrival to Djibouti, an electronic e-visa online or a visa from one of the Djiboutian diplomatic missions prior to arrival in Djibouti.
The one exception to this rule is Singaporean passport holders, who can enter Djibouti without a visa.
Tourist visas are valid for a stay of 30 days.
Djibouti Visa in Addis Ababa
My Djiboutian visa which was issued on the same day in Addis Ababa.
I applied for my Djibouti visa at the Djibouti Embassy in Addis Ababa where a single-entry tourist visa cost me US$35, payable in USD cash, and required one passport photo.
Thirty day tourist visas are issued the same day, with applications accepted until 12 noon. The embassy then closes for lunch, then reopens at 1:30 pm at which time you can collect your passport. The staff are friendly and helpful.
My Djibouti visa receipt from the Djibouti embassy in Addis Ababa.
Letter of Invitation
I was not asked for a letter of invitation when I applied for my visa at the embassy – but – I was asked for my letter of invitation by immigration upon arrival at Djibouti airport.
Since I didn’t have a letter of invitation, I was asked to wait – along with most other foreigners from the flight. Eventually, a 2nd immigration officer stamped an entry stamp into my passport and welcomed me to Djibouti.
The contact details of the Djibouti Embassy in Addis Ababa are:
Address
Bole Sub City, Kebele-03, House No. 003
Addis Ababa
Ethiopia
Phone
+251-116-613200
+251-116-613006
Fax
+251-116-612786
Getting There
Air
The easiest and most common way to get to Djibouti is by air.
Djibouti–Ambouli International Airport is the only airport in Djibouti. Located 6 kilometres (4 miles) south of downtown, the airport is currently undergoing a complete rebuild (March 2023). As such, everything is a mess and there are currently no shops, services or anything else available.
The airport also serves as a joint civilian/military-use airport. When my Ethiopian Airlines flight taxied to the terminal, we parked next to a group of uniformed soldiers who were unloading large assault rifles from various shipping containers and laying them out on the tarmac. Military stock-taking?
The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from Djibouti:
Air Djibouti – flies to/from Addis Ababa, Aden, Dire Dawa, Hargeisa, Mogadishu
Air France – flies to/from Paris–Charles de Gaulle
Ethiopian Airlines – flies to/from Addis Ababa, Dire Dawa
Kenya Airways – flies to/from Addis Ababa, Nairobi–Jomo Kenyatta
Qatar Airways – flies to/from Doha
Saudia – flies to/from Jeddah
Turkish Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul
Yemenia – flies to/from Aden
Airport Transport
Taxis are available outside the terminal.
I was fortunate to meet some friendly locals who offered to drive me to my downtown hotel – a wonderful introduction to the country. The Djiboutian’s are so friendly and kind!
Land
Djibouti shares borders with Eritrea, Ethiopia, and Somalia, but travel overland can be challenging due to poor road conditions, security risks, and the need for permits and visas.
Currently the land border between Djibouti and Eritrea is closed while the borders between Djibouti and Ethiopia and Somalia (Somaliland) are open.
However, the newly constructed Addis Ababa-Djibouti railway line provides a convenient and safe way to travel between Ethiopia and Djibouti.
Somaliland
A Somaliland-registered 4WD being readied for its overnight journey from Djibouti City to Hargeisa.
4WD vehicles for Hargeisa (capital of Somaliland) depart each evening at around 5 pm from Avenue 26 in Djibouti City. The cost of a seat up front, next to the driver, is USD$40, while those behind cost US$30.
There is no fixed office for these Somaliland ‘taxis’, they simply park alongside the roadside on Avenue 26. Any taxi driver in Djibouti knows where to find them and you should arrange transportation the day before.
Somaliland 4WD’s on Avenue 26 are easily identified by their Somaliland license plates.
There are many vehicles making this journey each evening, with all 4WD’s being 1990’s-era Toyota Land Cruisers. They are beat up, well past their expiry date and prone to breakdowns in the Somali dessert in the middle of the night. All part of the adventure!
The 562 km journey is entirely on unsealed roads (except for the first 20 km inside Djibouti) with a total journey time of 17 hours. This includes a 4-hour stop at the border.
Most of the journey is done during the night, when it is cooler in the desert.
The Somali drivers, who drive like there is no tomorrow, speed along the sandy/ gravel/ rutted tracks at truly dangerous speeds in the darkness of night. The locals in my car kept asking the driver to slow down. They were afraid for their lives!
This is a long, enduring, uncomfortable, and at times plain scary, journey!
More coverage on this in my Somaliland Travel Guide.
My beautiful Osprey travel bag, covered in desert dust and crushed under a heavy white sack.
Tip:
Prior to your main bag (backpack) being strapped onto the roof of the 4WD, you should remove anything valuable or breakable, including all toiletries. Your bag will be crushed under the weight of boxes and other heavy items.
Also at the border, you will be separated from anything on the roof of your vehicle for about 4 hours.
Getting Around
Public transport in Djibouti consists mainly of minibuses that are privately owned, with no known schedule.
Taxis are also numerous and inexpensive with most rides around Djibouti City costing between DJF 500 – 1,000 (USD$2,80 – $5.60).
Taxi
Taxis in Djibouti tend to look like beat up dodgem cars. A taxi fare around Djibouti city should cost DJF 500, with longer journeys costing up to DJF 1,000.
Rental Car
Djibouti car license plates display numbers and numerals in Latin and Arabic characters.
The Atlantic Hotel offers rental cars starting a USD$50 per day.
That’s the end of my travel guide for Djibouti. If you wish to comment, please feel free to leave a message below.
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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 35 years and, 219 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is an Eritrea Travel Guide from taste2travel.
Date Visited: March 2023
Introduction
I have always had the desire to visit Eritrea. When I made contact last year with Captain Kahsai, the owner of an Eritrean tour company, he assured me that he could get me a visa. I then started making plans to visit Eritrea – and I’m glad I did!
Eritrea is a fascinating destination. A very safe country, populated by friendly, gentle, helpful people. It was a pleasure to spend time among the Eritreans.
No shortage of smiles from the friendly Eritreans.
Eritrea is a small country located in the Horn of Africa, bordering Ethiopia to the south, Sudan to the west, and Djibouti and the Red Sea to the east.
It gained independence from Ethiopia in 1993 after a 30-year, protracted and bloody, struggle for self-determination.
A young girl in Massawa old town.
Eritrea has a rich history, dating back to ancient times and has been influenced by a variety of cultures and empires over the centuries, including the Axumite Empire, the Ottoman Empire, and Italian colonialism.
This has contributed to the country’s diverse cultural heritage and unique identity.
Home to 1000’s of pieces of destroyed military equipment, the Tank Graveyard in Asmara is a truly bizarre sight.
Today, Eritrea is known for its rugged landscape, which includes a portion of the Ethiopian Highlands, the Great Rift Valley and the Danakil Desert, as well as its vibrant and colourful marketplaces, traditional music and dance, and delicious cuisine.
A view of the Great Rift Valley at Qohaito.
Despite its small size, Eritrea has a rich natural and cultural heritage and is a fascinating destination for intrepid travellers.
The visa process is a little tricky but I explain in the Visa Requirements section below, exactly how I obtained my visa.
I hope this Eritrea Travel Guide inspires others to plan a trip to this fascinating, but often overlooked, African destination.
Location
Asmara, Eritrea
Eritrea is a country located in the Horn of Africa. It is bordered by Sudan in the west, Ethiopia in the south, and Djibouti in the southeast.
Over the centuries, the different occupiers of the port city of Massawa have left their mark in the form of architectural influences.
Eritrea extends about 1,000 km (600 mi) along the Red Sea coast and includes the islands of the Dahlak Archipelago. Due to its strategic location, Eritrea has a long history of invasion and occupation by such powers as Turkey, Egypt, Italy and Ethiopia.
Eritrea’s coastal location has long been important in its history and culture—a fact reflected in its name, which is an Italianised version of Mare Erythraeum, Latin for “Red Sea.”
A view of the central highlands of Eritrea.
While the coastal plain is extremely hot and dry, the interior of Eritrea is dominated by a high central plateau that varies from 1,800 to 3,000 metres (5,906–9,843 ft) above sea level.
The capital city, Asmara, is located at a lofty 2,325 metres (7,628 feet), making it one of the highest capital cities in Africa.
Further inland, close to the Ethiopian border, the Debub region is home to a high plateau, which drops abruptly, into the depths of the Great Rift Valley.
People
School boys in Asmara.
Eritrea’s diverse population of 3.6 million is a melting pot of different cultures and traditions. The Tigrinya, Tigre, Saho, and smaller ethnic groups each have their unique customs and traditions, which contribute to the country’s rich heritage.
Despite their differences, the people of Eritrea share a common history and are united in their love for their country.
Eritreans are very friendly and welcoming and go out of their way to make visitors feel welcome.
Printed on very thin paper, the “Eritrea Profile” is the English-language daily newspaper.
With a very low crime rate, Eritrea is a very safe country to travel in and, at no stage, did I feel threatened or hassled. Compared to other African countries, travelling in Eritrea is very relaxed.
An Eritrean Orthodox Christian.
The two major religions in Eritrea are Christianity (Eritrean Orthodox) and Islam (Sunni).
However, the number of adherents of each faith is subject to debate. Estimates of the Christian share of the population range from 47% and 63%, while estimates of the Muslim share of the population range from 37% to 52%.
Eritrean Orthodox church service at the St. Mariam church in Massawa.
Either way, the two groups live together in harmony with mosques and churches located close to each other in most towns.
Christian and Muslim friends, together in the city of Keren.
The Tigrinya ethnic group comprises the largest portion of Eritrea’s population, accounting for around 50% of the total.
Street scene in the city of Keren.
The Tigrinya people mainly inhabit the highlands, including the capital city, Asmara. They speak Tigrinya, which is also the country’s official language.
Traditional Eritrean bridal dresses, in a shop in Keren.
The Tigrinya have a rich cultural heritage, which includes music, dance, and traditional cuisine. The Tigrinya people are known for their hospitality and are often referred to as “the people of the land of harmony.”
Traditional round huts which belong to the Bilan people, who live in the vicinity of Keren.
The Tigre people are the second-largest ethnic group in Eritrea, comprising around 30% of the total population. They mainly inhabit the lowlands and coastal areas of the country.
The Tigre people speak Tigre, a language closely related to Tigrinya. They have a rich history and culture, which includes traditional dances like the Habesha, a sword dance.
Camels are often used for transporting goods in Eritrea.
The Tigre people are known for their resilience and bravery and have played a crucial role in Eritrea’s struggle for independence.
Flag
The flag of Eritrea is dominated by a red isosceles triangle based on the hoist-side pointed toward the fly-side.
The flag is further divided by two opposing triangles – an upper triangle which is green and a lower triangle which is blue.
An Eritrean flag, in a gift shop in Asmara.
On the hoist-side, in the centre of the red triangle, is a yellow olive branch encircled by an olive wreath. The wreath features 30 leaves which represent the thirty years spent in the struggle for independence.
The Eritrean flag, flying alongside the flag of the Eritrean People’s Liberation Front in the city of Keren.
The redcolour signifies the blood shed in the struggle for independence, while the green represents the agriculture and livestock of the country and the bluefor the bounty of the sea.
The Eritrean flag, featured on a souvenir cap, at a gift shop in Asmara.
Currency
A rare find in Eritrea – a fresh, clean bank note.
The official currency of Eritrea is the nakfa which has the international currency code of ERN.
The nakfa was introduced in 1997 to replace the Ethiopian birr as the national currency. The currency is named after the town of Nakfa, which was a major centre of the Eritrean struggle for independence.
The obverse side of the 10 nakfa bank note features a scene from the now defunct Asmara to Massawa railway.
For the uninitiated, nakfa bank notes are hard to distinguish since they are all the same colour, almost the same size and feature a very similar design. Most notes are old, dirty and crumpled with notes in good condition being very hard to find.
Issued by the Bank of Eritrea, the nakfa is available in the form of coins and banknotes with 1 nakfa being divided into 100 cents. The coins are available in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 25, and 50 cents, and the banknotes are available in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 nakfa.
Eritrean nakfa banknotes are the same colour, almost the same size and feature a similar design.
Exchange Rate:
To check the current exchange rate between USD and ERN, click on the following link:
Credit cards are not accepted anywhere in Eritrea! As such, credit cards cannot be used to withdraw cash at ATMs, or from a bank branch in the form of a cash advance.
Furthermore, ATMs do not exist in Eritrea and plastic cards are not in use in Eritrea.
Eritrea is purely a cash society!
It is essential that you arrive with enough USD cash to cover all your travel expenses!
You are unable to purchase any foreign currency from the few money changers which exist in Eritrea.
Being a closed economy, the currency of Eritrea cannot be exchanged outside of Eritrea. You will also not be able to convert any remaining nakfa back into USD upon your departure.
My guide, Yehdego, entering the The Himbol currency exchange shop on Harnet street, downtown Asmara.
The best place to change foreign currency is at the Himbol currency exchange which is located on Harnet street in downtown Asmara. They accept a variety of foreign currencies, but USD is preferred.
Costs
Travel costs in Eritrea are quite reasonable, with the biggest expense for me being the cost of a tour. If you travel independently, Eritrea could be a travel bargain.
Asmara Beer (always served in a brown bottle without any label): US$2
Cappuccino: US$0.80
Plastic bottled water (always imported): US$2.00
Wi-Fi
Unlike in most other countries, Wi-Fi is not freely available in Eritrea and its use is heavily restricted.
One local told me that the Eritrean government has observed how, around the world, the internet has been used to allow people to organise themselves to protest.
By banning the internet, almost completely, the government of Eritrea avoids such issues!
Wi-Fi Access
You can access the internet at the Asmara Palace Hotel, although it is painfully slow with a download speed of 2MBps being shared between all hotel guests.
The backbone of the hotel’s technology infrastructure is an old-style ADSL router. Very slow and almost unusable! During my time at the hotel, I was unable to view websites or even open emails.
There are a few internet cafes in most towns where you can pay to access the internet.
Tour Companies
I travelled to Eritrea with Damera tours, who I would highly recommend.
The owner of Damera Tours, Captain Kahsai, worked for most of his career as a pilot for Ethiopian Airlines.
Damera tours is owned by the friendly, enthusiastic, and wholly reliable, Captain Kahsai, a distinguished, professional, Eritrean, who worked for most of his career as a captain with Ethiopian Airlines.
Artwork, showcasing the iconic buildings of Asmara, adorns the office wall at Damera Tours.
After retiring from his aviation career, Captain Kahsai returned home to his beloved Eritrea, leaving his family and friends behind in Germany, to establish Damera tours. He now spends his time commuting between Eritrea and Germany.
Thanks to the support and assistance of Captain Kahsai, I was able to gain a visa authorisation, online, in less in 10 days.
The office of Damera Tours in Asmara.
Captain Kahsai is the proud owner of a classic, 1980’s era, gold-coloured Mercedes which he drives around Asmara in style! You should definitely take him up on any offer of a ride!
Contact Details for Captain Kahsai
Captain /Dr. Kahsai Berhane
CEO & Chief Pilot
Damera Aviation Plc
Touring the remote Debub region, which is only accessible via 4WD, with Damera Tours.
Tour Itinerary and Costs
I booked a 6D/ 5N tour, which covered Asmara, Massawa, Keren and the ruins of Qohaito.
As a single passenger, the tour cost me a total of US$1490. The cost for 2 or more travellers is US$990 per person.
Tour Inclusions
Included in the cost of the tour was visa service, transport, driver, guide and accommodation – with most nights spent at the very comfortable Asmara Palace Hotel – the best hotel in Eritrea!
My guide, Yihdego Bairu, was highly knowledgeable, very patient (while waiting for me to finish taking my many photos), and seemed to have friends in every corner of Eritrea. He repeatedly told me that having me as a client wasn’t work – it was a pleasure! So kind!
My driver, Michael, was very competent and seemed to have knowledge of every pot hole in the road, which he always managed to avoid.
On the road from Asmara to Massawa with Damera Tours.
Tour Exclusions
What wasn’t included in the cost of the tour were personal expenses, meals, drinks and the visa fee of US$70.
Meals are not necessarily cheap in Eritrea, with an average meal (with a drink) costing between US$15 – 20.
A spectacular view of the Great Rift Valley, which I visited in a 4WD, with the amazing team from Damera Tours.
Visa Service
As part of their service, Damera tours takes care of securing visas for their clients. More details on this, plus an outline of the visa process, can be found in the Visa Requirements section below.
Fauna
A staring competition with a male hamadryas baboon.
A common sight on the side of the highways in Eritrea are troops of hamadryas baboons.
Always looking for a free feed, these baboons are the northernmost of all the baboons, being native to the Horn of Africa and the southwestern region of the Arabian Peninsula.
A male hamadryas baboon.
These regions provide habitats with the advantage for this species of fewer natural predators than central or southern Africa where other baboons reside.
A much smaller female hamadryas baboon with her infant.
One of the more striking features of this species of baboon is its sexual dimorphism – males are nearly twice as large as females.
Adult males have a pronounced cape (mane and mantle), silver-white in colour, which they develop around the age of ten, while the females are cape-less and brown all over.
Sightseeing
During my 6 days in Eritrea, I visited the following locations:
Asmara
A view of Harnet street, the main street of Asmara, with Asmara cathedral in the background.
Wonderful, charming and inviting! That is Asmara!
Home to 970,000 souls, Asmara is the capital city of Eritrea, located in the central highlands of the country. The city has a rich history and a unique blend of architectural styles, reflecting the diverse cultural influences that have shaped its development over the centuries.
The iconic, Cinema Impero, is one of many Italian-built art-deco cinemas to be found in Asmara.
Asmara was founded in the late 19th century as a small village, but it quickly grew into a bustling centre of commerce and trade.
The city was occupied by Italy in the early 20th century, and it was during this period that many of its most iconic buildings were constructed, including the Art Deco Cinema Impero, the Futurist Fiat Taglierobuilding, and the Romanesque-style AsmaraCathedral.
Wrecked plane engines in the Tank Graveyard in Asmara.
During the Italian colonial era, Africans tourists from surrounding countries would visit Asmara to shop in its many Italian boutiques and to wine and dine in its many Italian restaurants. The city offered a slice of ‘Bella Roma’ in the Horn of Africa.
One of the highlights of Asmara is its unique architecture, which is a blend of Italian, Art Deco, and modernist styles. The city’s buildings, which are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are known for their colourful facades, ornate balconies and intricate details.
A wrecked tank on the side of the highway outside Asmara.
Overall, Asmara is a charming and fascinating city that offers a unique blend of history, culture, and architecture. An elderly Italian tourist commented to me that the city reminded him of Rome in the 1950’s.
Asmara Tank Graveyard
The tank graveyard in Asmara is home to 1000’s of pieces of destroyed military equipment.
The Tank Graveyard in Asmara is a site located on the outskirts of the city that contains 1000’s of destroyed and abandoned military tanks, armored vehicles, and other war machines.
Destroyed tanks, stacked on top of each other, in the Tank Graveyard in Asmara.
The tanks are remnants of the Eritrean War of Independence, which was fought between Eritrean rebels and Ethiopian forces from 1961 to 1991.
The Tank Graveyard is home to a colossal collection of destroyed military equipment.
The Tank Graveyard is an eerie and desolate place, with rusting tanks scattered across a barren landscape.
Besides tanks, there are many wrecked planes in the graveyard.
Many of the tanks are heavily damaged or have been stripped of parts, and the site is a haunting reminder of the violence and destruction that occurred during the war.
Wrecks upon wrecks at the Tank Graveyard in Asmara.
Despite its grim appearance, the Tank Graveyard is a fascinating sight – one of my favourite sights to photograph in Eritrea.
When will mankind learn that there are no winners from war?
It also serves as a reminder that there are no winners in war!
A haunting and eerie sight – the Tank Graveyard in Asmara.
Fiat Tagliero Building
Designed by the Italian architect Giuseppe Pettazzi in 1938, the Fiat Tagliero Building is considered one of the most important examples of Futurist architecture in the world.
The Fiat Tagliero Building is an iconic landmark located in downtown Asmara.
A truly impressive sight (love those unsupported, cantilevered wings), it was designed by the Italian architect Giuseppe Pettazzi in 1938 and is considered one of the most important examples of Futurist architecture in the world.
The Fiat Tagliero Building was originally built as a petrol station and car service centre for the Italian car manufacturer Fiat.
The building is characterized by its striking shape, which resembles an airplane with its wings spread.
The central portion of the building houses an impressive cantilevered roof that extends 15 metres without any visible supports. This feature gives the building a sense of weightlessness and creates an impression of movement and speed.
The Fiat Tagliero Building in Asmara.
The Fiat Tagliero Building was originally built as a petrol station and car service centre for the Italian car manufacturer Fiat.
It is an impressive example of Italian Rationalism, a design movement that favored simplicity, functionality, and modern materials such as reinforced concrete.
Detail of the central tower of the Fiat Tagliero Building.
The Fiat Tagliero Building is a testament to the vision and creativity of Giuseppe Pettazzi and serves as a reminder of Asmara’s unique architectural legacy – a legacy which has resulted in the city’s iconic buildings being listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Asmara Cathedral
The Italian-built Asmara cathedral was constructed in the 1920’s and is considered to be one of the finest Lombard/ Romanesque style churches outside Italy.
Asmara Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Rosary, is a Catholic cathedral located in downtown Asmara.
It is considered to be one of the most important religious and architectural landmarks in Eritrea.
A view of the roof and belltower of Asmara cathedral.
The Cathedral was constructed from 1921 to September 1923 and was inaugurated in 1923, and is thought to be one of the finest Lombard/ Romanesque style churches outside Italy.
A view of the interior of Asmara cathedral.
The cathedral is an impressive example of Italian colonial architecture, blending Romanesque and Baroque styles with traditional African elements.
The interior of the cathedral features marble floors, stained glass windows, and ornate altars.
A view of the central dome of Asmara cathedral.
Cinema Roma
The Italian-built, 1930’s-era, Cinema Roma is considered one of the most significant examples of Art Deco architecture in Eritrea.
Cinema Roma is an historic cinema located in downtown Asmara.
It was built during the Italian colonial period in the early 1930s and is considered one of the most significant examples of Art Deco architecture in the country.
During the time of my visit, Cinema Roma was hosting a Euro Film festival.
The cinema was designed by the Italian architect Mario Messina and features a distinctive façade that is typical of the Art Deco style.
The lobby of the Cinema Roma in Asmara.
The interior of the cinema is equally impressive, with a spacious auditorium that can seat over 1,200 people, as well as a balcony and a VIP area.
The plush-red auditorium provides seating for 1,200 people.
Cinema staff granted me special access to the upstairs balcony, and VIP room, so that I could take photos of the entire auditorium.
My guide commented, that I must be a VIP since it was the first time ever that he had been granted access to the balcony!
I was granted special access to take photos of the auditorium from the upstairs balcony.
Cinema Roma was once a thriving entertainment venue and played an important role in the cultural life of Asmara.
It screened a wide range of films, including Italian, American, and local productions, and was a popular destination for moviegoers from across the city.
A view of the beautiful café, that graces the lobby of Cinema Roma in Asmara.
Over the years, the cinema hosted a number of special events, such as premieres and film festivals, and even served as a venue for political meetings and rallies.
Photos of legendary stars line the walls of Cinema Roma.
Today, Cinema Roma stands as a symbol of Asmara’s rich cultural heritage and is considered a national treasure. It was a joy to be able to photograph such a beautiful building.
The lobby of Cinema Roma.
Bar Zili
Said to resemble an old-style radio, the Art-deco Bar Zilli was built during the late stages of Italian colonial rule.
Another iconic art-deco building is Bar Zilli which was built during the final days of Italian rule. It has been suggested by some that the building resembles an old-fashioned radio set, with windows like tuning buttons.
Asmara Commonwealth War Cemetery
The entrance to the Asmara Commonwealth War Cemetery.
Located on the outskirts of Asmara, on the highway to Massawa, the Asmara Commonwealth War Cemetery is the final resting place for British and Commonwealth soldiers who died while fighting the Italians during WWII.
One of the most striking features of the cemetery is the Cross of Sacrifice, a tall stone cross that stands at the centre of the cemetery.
The cemetery covers an area of about 3.5 acres and contains over 400 graves, many of which are marked with simple white headstones.
I was given a comprehensive tour of the cemetery by the enthusiastic caretaker who was keen to share his knowledge of all those who are buried at the cemetery.
The cemetery caretaker, showing me a register of all buried soldiers.
The cemetery is maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, which ensures that the graves are kept in good condition and that the memories of those who fought and died in the service of their country are properly honoured.
A register of soldiers buried at the Asmara Commonwealth War cemetery.
The Asmara Commonwealth War Cemetery serves as a poignant reminder of the sacrifices made by the soldiers and civilians who fought and died during World War II and the period of British administration in Eritrea.
Massawa
Located in front of the former Banco d’Italia building in Massawa, this empty plinth once featured a statue of Haile Selassie.
Massawa is a port city located on the Red Sea coast of Eritrea, about 120 kilometres southeast of Asmara.
Sunset over the Red Sea port city of Massawa.
The city has a long and rich history dating back to ancient times, and it has been an important centre of trade and commerce for centuries.
Residents of Massawa old town continue to live among the remains of war-ravaged buildings.
Massawa was a major trading hub during the Axumite period, and it continued to thrive during the Islamic period, when it became an important centre of Islamic learning and culture.
Children, living among the ruined buildings in Massawa old town.
The city was also a key port of call on the trade routes between Europe, the Middle East, and Asia.
Remains of a shop in Massawa old town.
Massawa’s architecture is a testament to its long history, with buildings that reflect the diverse cultural influences that have shaped the city over the centuries.
Massawa old town is a treasure trove of different architectural styles.
The city’s narrow streets and alleyways are lined with colourful, ornate buildings that range in style from traditional African to Ottoman, Egyptian and Italian colonial.
An Ottoman-era building in Massawa old town.
The Ottomans, who first captured Massawa in 1557, tried to extend their control inland but failed.
An old St. Vincent-registered boat in Massawa port.
They instead focused their efforts on building monumental buildings around Massawa port with the intention of converting the town into a leading Red Sea trade centre.
An Ottoman-era building in Massawa.
Many fine examples of Ottoman architecture lay in ruin today, following the bombardments during the War of Independence.
A mosque in Massawa old town.
Most of the buildings of the old town have been constructed using coral stone from nearby quarries.
An ornate Ottoman-era building in Massawa old town.
Unfortunately, in 1991, Massawa was heavily bombed by the Ethiopian air force in the final days of the 30-year War of Independence.
A crumbling, neglected architectural jewel in Massawa old town.
Even after more than 30 years, most buildings in the old town remain war-ravaged, with residents living on the ground floor of homes, whose upper levels have been destroyed by bombs.
An abandoned building in Massawa old town.
With my guide Bairu, I did a walking tour of Massawa old town, visiting some of the iconic architectural gems which still lay destroyed following the bombing of the city.
Details of an abandoned building in Massawa old town.
A treasure trove of architectural gems from many different occupiers, the old town of Massawa would be an amazing sight if ever fully renovated.
Imperial Palace
The war-ravaged remains of the Imperial Palace in Massawa.
Across the road from the Grand Dahlak Hotel, overlooking the harbour, the war-ravaged Imperial Palace was built by the Turkish Osdemir Pasha in the 16th century.
The ruins of the Imperial Palace stand at the entrance to Massawa old town.
The present building dates from 1872, when it was built for the Swiss adventurer Werner Munzinger. For any Swiss readers, Herr Munzinger was a native of Olten.
A view of the main entrance to the Imperial Palace.
During the federation with Ethiopia, the palace was used as a winter palace by Emperor Haile Selassie, whose imperial lions still stand guard at the palace entrance.
Installed during the reign of Emperor Haile Selassie, imperial lions guard the entrance to the Imperial Palace in Massawa.
A view of the interior of the Imperial Palace.
Former Banco d’Italia Building
The iconic Banca d’Italia building was originally built by the Italians in the 1920’s.
Located across from the entrance to Massawa port, the very grand and imposing Banca d’Italia (Bank of Italy) building was originally built by the Italians in the 1920’s.
For decades, it served as the largest bank under the Italian administration and was later renamed to Haile Selassie Bank under Ethiopian occupation. An empty plinth in front of the bank once featured a statue of Haile Selassie.
In 1991, in the final days of the War of Independence, the building was severely destroyed by Soviet and Ethiopian bombardments.
A view of the war-ravaged main entrance to the Banca d’Italia building in Massawa.
In 2011, a plan was unveiled to completely renovate/ rebuild this iconic building, converting it into a hotel featuring eight luxury suites. However, as of 2023, the building remains in ruin.
Tank Memorial
The Tank Memorial in Massawa, features three tanks which were used to defeat Ethiopian forces in 1990.
Located in Massawa new town, the imposing Tank War Memorial features three tanks (Tiger, Jogar, Commander) that were instrumental in the liberation of Massawa during OperationFenkel in February 1990.
Also known as the Second Battle of Massawa, the tanks were used by Eritrean forces to block the causeway connecting Massawa to the mainland. These same forces were then able to force Ethiopian forces to retreat inland, surrendering Massawa.
Asmara-Massawa Railway
A painting, in a café in Keren, shows the Asmara to Massawa railway.
The Eritrean railway system was built by the Italian colonists who ruled the country from the end of the 19th century until the end of World War II.
One of many Italian-built stone viaducts which lie on the Asmara to Massawa rail line.
Its construction began in Autumn 1887. Originally, the colonists were planning to use the train for the purposes of moving their military personnel as well as to carry minerals from the many mines which they were exploiting all over Eritrea.
It is in 1911 that the train finally connected Asmara, the capital, to Massawa. At its peak, the system had over thirty-nine tunnels, sixty-five bridges and had trains operating on a regular daily basis.
One of many stone viaducts on the Asmara to Massawa railway.
During the War of Independence, the line was severely damaged. It was partially restored in 2003 but has never fully operated since that time. The many impressive stone bridges and tunnels can still be seen while driving along the highway between Asmara and Massawa.
Today, the only way to travel between Asmara and Massawa is on the congested highway which winds its way down from the highlands onto the coastal plain.
Keren
An exterior view of San Antonios (St. Anthony’s) church in Keren, Eritrea.
The town of Keren has a long and rich history dating back to ancient times. It is believed to have been inhabited by different ethnic groups, including the Saho, Tigre, and Tigrinya peoples, who were predominantly agriculturalists and pastoralists.
A view of Keren city and St. Antonios church.
In the 19th century, Keren became an important centre of commerce and trade, with the establishment of a market that attracted traders from neighboring areas.
A Jacaranda tree in bloom in a church courtyard in Keren.
From Keren, highway P2 leads west to the Sudanese border, although this land border is currently closed!
Revolutionary artwork, and a lazy donkey, in downtown Keren.
Keren played a significant role in the struggle against Italian colonisation in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, as it was a base for many Eritrean resistance fighters.
The best views of Keren are from the rooftop terrace of the Keren Hotel in downtown Keren.
Keren was the location of a key battle in WWII which saw British forces finally defeat the Italians, which led to the Italians relinquishing all control of Eritrea.
The Keren region is home to the Bilan people, who live in distinctly round huts.
After Eritrea gained independence from Ethiopia in 1993, Keren underwent significant development, with the construction of new infrastructure and facilities.
A mural in downtown Keren.
Today, Keren is a vibrant town that attracts visitors from all over the world, who come to enjoy its beautiful architecture, rich history, and cultural diversity.
An Italian-built, art-deco, former cinema in Keren.
Commonwealth War Cemetery
The entrance to the Commonwealth War Cemetery in Keren.
During World War II, Keren was the site of a major battle between the British and Italian forces in February-March 1941. The battle, which lasted for two weeks, resulted in a victory for the British and marked a turning point in the war in East Africa.
It was this victory which led to Italy surrendering all claims on Eritrea.
Memorial cross at the Commonwealth War cemetery in Keren.
Located on the outskirts of town, a perfectly maintained Commonwealth War Cemetery is the final resting place for British and Commonwealth forces who died during WWII in Keren.
The cemetery gate is normally closed but visitors are able to enter. The ground staff are very friendly and will be happy to show you around.
Gravestone at the Commonwealth war cemetery in Keren.
Mariam Dearit Shrine
The Mariam Dearit Shrine is built into the hollow of a large baobab tree.
Located on the outskirts of Keren, the Shrine of Mariam Dearit, also known as the Madonna of the Baobab, is situated in a naturally hollow trunk of a large baobab tree.
A view of the Mariam Dearit Shrine, inside the hollow of a baobab tree.
Said to be more than 500-years-old, this Catholic shrine is extremely popular with locals and visiting Eritreans, and there’s also a small chapel on site for ceremonies or prayers.
The Mariam Dearit Shrine, inside the baobab tree.
If coming from town, it would be best to come with your own transport or with a taxi. The shrine compound is located about 5km from town, in the most unlikely location. The taxi driver should wait for you!
Jacaranda trees line the highway between Keren and Asmara.
Qohaito
Ruins from the ancient city of Qohaito, which flourished in the 8th century BCE.
Located about 140km (2-hours) south-east of Asmara, close to the Ethiopian border, in the Debub region, Qohaito is an ancient city which dates back to the pre-Aksumite period, around the 8th century BCE.
Temple ruins at Qohaito.
Qohaito was one of the largest and most powerful cities in the Horn of Africa during its heyday, and its ruins still bear witness to its past glory.
The city was built on a hill surrounded by fertile plains and was strategically located along major trade routes connecting the Red Sea coast to the interior of the African continent.
A track, used by ancient camel caravans, leads from the depths of Great Rift Valley up to the plateau.
Located at 2,500 metres above sea level, on a high plateau, at the edge of the Great Rift Valley, Qohaito lies directly to the west of the ancient Red Sea port of Adulis.
A sandstone-hewn, underground tomb, at Qohaito.
Qohaito, which in Saho means rock, has yet to be excavated or investigated by archaeologists.
In one place, our local guide bounced a boulder onto the ground. This made a hollow sound which indicated that an underground chamber lie below our feet.
Carved stones from an ancient temple lie in wait, ready for archeological investigations.
Several stone structures, which are believed to be pre-Christian era temples, dot the landscape. An underground tomb, carved out of sandstone, awaits investigation.
Nothing is known about this tomb. The whole site is currently a mystery.
The area today is sparsely inhabited by a few villagers from the Saho and Tigrigna ethnic groups.
Stone columns, from a pre-Christian era temple, at Qohaito.
I drove to Qohaito with my guide and driver in a 4WD, which is required as the ruins lie about 20km off the main highway, at the end of a rough, unsealed, road.
It is impossible to reach this site using public transport.
A view of the Great Rift Valley from the plateau at Qohaito.
Once we arrived at a nearby village, we were required to pick up a mandatory government guide, who escorted us during our visit.
An ancient dam at Qohaito, which is said to be more than 2,500 years old.
The first site we visited was a dry dam which was built more than 2,500 years ago. The dam features the original basalt-stone walls which were used to retain water.
A view of the Great Rift Valley from the plateau at Qohaito.
From the dam, we drove to the edge of the plateau which affords the most stunning views of the Great Rift Valley, which lies 500 metres below.
From the Qohaito plateau, it’s a 500-metre drop into the Great Rift Valley.
Eating Out
Cuisine
The staple of Eritrean cuisine, Injera was always served for lunch.
Eritrean cuisine is a fusion of different cultures and influences, reflecting the country’s diverse history and location at the crossroads of Africa, the Middle East, and Europe. Some of the main components of Eritrean cuisine include:
Injera: This is a sourdough flatbread that is a staple of Eritrean cuisine. It is made from teff flour and is served with a variety of stews and sauces.
Tibs: This is a dish of sautéed meat, usually beef or lamb, with onions, garlic, and peppers. It can be served as a main course or as a side dish.
Overall, Eritrean cuisine is flavorful, aromatic, and often spicy. It incorporates a wide range of ingredients and flavors, making it a unique and exciting culinary experience.
Always eaten by hand, Injera is often served with a spicy goat stew.
Restaurants / Cafés
Asmara
Due to its Italian influence, cafés are numerous in Eritrea.
Asmara is home to many restaurants and cafés, with Italian staples such as pasta and pizza featuring on many restaurant menus.
Most cafés in Asmara, such as Bar Gianna, are wonderfully retro.
Like in neighbouring Ethiopia, coffee in Eritrea is served in short glasses, as a very strong Caffè macchiato.
A typically strong Caffè macchiato, served in a café in Asmara.
Keren
Friendly Eritreans, relaxing at the Sweet Corner café in the city of Keren.
The streets of the northern city of Keren are lined with large, shady trees. Establishments, such as the inviting Sweet Corner café, offer seating on the footpaths, underneath these trees, allowing locals to chill and relax on the street.
While in Keren, we spent time relaxing in the garden of this café, where we enjoyed sweet black tea.
Also in downtown Keren, the Ishbilia café offers a relaxed vibe in its small enclosed garden, where glasses of sweet black tea are served with glasses of Ariki.
Adi Keyh
The relaxing garden courtyard at the Milan Restaurant in Adi Keyh.
After the long drive from Asmara to Adi Keyh, we paused in the leafy and green garden at the Milan restaurant, where we enjoyed glasses of sweet black tea.
A male Ruppell’s Weaver, in the garden of the Milan Restaurant at Adi Keyh.
The garden was especially active with bird life, including a male Ruppell’s Weaver, which was clearly checking me out.
The interior of the Milan Restaurant in Adi Keyh.
Bars
Just as Italy, where cafés serve as bars and bars serve as cafes, so too in Eritrea, alcohol is freely available in any café.
Within Eritrea, Asmara beer is always sold in a brown, unlabeled, bottle.
All alcohol is produced by the Asmara brewery who brew just one type of beer, a pale lager which is traditionally brewed using malted barley, hops and the purest of mountain water. It is a very smooth and highly quaffable beer.
However, exported Asmara beer is always labelled.
Within Eritrea, the beer is always sold in its distinctive brown bottle without any label. Labelled bottles are reserved for export with the beer being popular in Europe.
Asmara Brewery produces a range of popular alcoholic beverages.
Besides beer, Asmara brewery produces a range of alcoholic beverages including gin, cognac and Fernet-Branca.
Drinking Ariki, and a tea, in a tea house in Massawa.
However, Asmara brewery is best known for producing Ariki, a very smooth, aniseed-flavored spirit. Very popular, Ariki is consumed on any occasion and is popular in tea houses as a side drink.
After sunset, outdoor bars/ restaurants open up along the corniche in Massawa old town.
While waiting to board my flight from Asmara to Addis Ababa, many Eritreans were buying up bottles of Ariki from the duty-free shop. A distinct aniseed aroma could be smelt throughout the airport waiting lounge.
Nightlife
Eritrean nightlife at a restaurant in the Asmara Expo grounds.
If you would like to experience Eritrean nightlife, you can do this is at a couple of restaurants/ nightclubs which are located inside the Asmara Expo grounds.
I attended one such restaurant with Captain Kahsai.
After dining on the finest Injera, we adjourned to a darkened room where local musicians were playing traditional musical instruments and the waitresses demonstrated traditional Eritrean dances.
Accommodation
My tour package included accommodation at the deluxe Asmara Palace Hotel, the best hotel in Eritrea.
Accommodation options in Eritrea vary from basic to luxury. There is something to suit every budget, although the budget hotels can be scary!
Since I was travelling on a tour, my hotels were included in my package. During my time in Eritrea, I stayed at the Asmara Palace hotel and the Grand Dahlak hotel in Massawa.
Asmara Palace Hotel
A view of my spacious and comfortable room at the Asmara Palace Hotel.
Asmara Palace Hotel is a luxurious hotel located in the heart of Asmara, a short, 5-minute, drive from Asmara International Airport.
This is the best accommodation option in Eritrea with rooms costing around US$120 per night. This includes a decent buffet breakfast – plus Wi-Fi (a real treat in Eritrea). My tour included 4 nights at the Asmara Palace hotel.
A view of the reception desk at the Asmara Palace Hotel.
The Asmara Palace hotel features 186 comfortable and spacious rooms and suites, each designed with comfort in mind. My bed was especially comfortable and enticing, but with a busy sightseeing schedule, I had little time to relax.
A view of the atrium at the Asmara Palace hotel.
The hotel is housed in a grand building that was originally constructed in the 1930s and has been renovated many times since.
The hotel offers modern amenities and good service, making it a popular destination for business travellers, tourists, and locals alike.
During my stay, I was the only tourist staying at the hotel. Most guests were in town on business, including a team from the UN.
To honour my stay, the Australian flag was flown outside the Asmara Palace hotel.
In honour of my visit, the Australian flag was flown outside the hotel – the 2nd time this has happened. The first time this happened was during my stay at a hotel in Mariehamn, the capital of the Åland Island.
The view, from the balcony of my room, which shows the glass enclosure of the indoor pool, the outdoor pool and the tennis courts in the rear.
Asmara Palace Hotel also offers a range of recreational facilities, including a large indoor swimming pool, an outdoor pool, a fitness centre, a spa and two tennis courts. The facilities seemed to be used more by visiting locals than by the guests themselves.
The hotel restaurant serves a variety of local and international cuisine, with the salads being especially good. Most fresh produce in Eritrea is served straight from local farms with vegetables and salads being crisp and full of flavour.
The Asmara Palace hotel offers the best accommodation in Eritrea.
Overall, Asmara Palace Hotel is a luxurious and elegant hotel that offers a unique blend of modern amenities and traditional charm.
I enjoyed my stay here and really didn’t want to leave!
Grand Dahlak Hotel
The entrance to the not-so-grand ‘Grand Dahlak Hotel’ in Massawa.
Despite its name, there is nothing ‘grand’ about the Grand Dahlak Hotel. This former grande dame might once have been a shiny beacon of hospitality, but its star faded long ago.
The lobby of the Grand Dahlak hotel.
A forlorn air hangs heavy over this hotel, with its lethargic staff wilting in the still, mid-day heat. The once grandiose reception area is now dusty and silent while the large swimming pool has been empty for years.
My less-than-appealing room at the Grand Dahlak hotel.
Upstairs, the rooms are old, tired and in need of a complete renovation.
In terms of comfort and hospitality, the Grand Dahlak hotel is at the opposite end of the spectrum to the Asmara Palace Hotel.
Outside the gates of the Grand Dahlak Hotel, the tree-lined streets of Massawa new town are eerily quiet.
Breakfast is served at an outdoor café next to the pool. Diners are fully at the mercy of a flock of ravenous black ravens who perch themselves at vantage points around the café, waiting for an opportunity to swoop and steal your breakfast.
One poor Italian man left his table for 1 minute to collect a cup of coffee. When he returned, his entire breakfast had been air-lifted away by a team of kamikaze ravens.
It was hilarious watching a raven trying to fly while holding onto a huge slice of toast bread and at the same time fending off attacks by his hungry mates.
Interestingly, the Italian hadn’t noticed anything was a-miss until he went to pick up his toast and realised everything was gone!
The empty pool at the Grand Dahlak Hotel in Massawa.
There is nothing inviting or enticing about the Grand Dahlak hotel and I was happy that I spent just one night there!
Sadly, the Grand Dahlak hotel is the best hotel in Massawa!
Visa Requirements
My Eritrean visa, which was issued upon arrival at Asmara International Airport.
Tricky! Almost all nationalities require a visa to enter Eritrea and they can be notoriously difficult to obtain if you apply through an embassy.
I used the services of Damera Tours who secured a visa authorisation, without fuss, in 10 days.
It is important that you do not make any travel arrangements to Eritrea until you have first secured the visa authorisation.
Visa Application Process
The following steps describe the Eritrea visa application process:
I first completed a Visa Application form which was emailed to me by Damera Tours.
After waiting 10 days, I received a Visa Authorisation via email. The fee for this is included in the cost of the tour.
Once I had the authorisation, I was then free to book a return flight to Asmara and confirm my tour arrangements with Damera tours.
I printed the Visa Authorisation form and presented it to the immigration officer upon arrival at Asmara International airport.
At the airport, I was handed a new visa application form which I had to complete.
I was required to pay the visa fee of USD$70 (in cash) and provide a passport-size photo.
After about 45 minutes, I received my passport with a tourist visa which was valid for a stay of 30 days.
Damera Tours Visa Service
The key benefit of using the services of Damera tours is that Captain Kahsai, who is well connected in Eritrea, takes care of your visa authorisation. He assured me that he has a good success rate!
As part of the visa process, Damera tours emailed me a visa application form, which I completed and returned.
After a period of 10 days, I received my visa authorisation form.
My Eritrean Visa authorisation form, which I received via email.
Pictured above, the visa authorisation (fee included in the cost of your tour) simply allows you board a flight to Asmara.
Upon arrival at Asmara International airport, you will be handed a fresh application form which needs to be completed and submitted, along with one photo and US$70 in cash. You will then be issued with a full-page sticker visa in your passport, valid for a stay of 30 days.
In order to use the visa service of Damera tours, you will need to book a tour. Captain Kahsai can tailor a tour to suit your needs with tours starting at just 3 days.
The average cost of a tour is US$200 per day, which includes everything, except meals and personal expenses.
Important Tip:
Once you have completed your tour, you are free to remain in Eritrea and travel independently.
A tourist visa is valid for a stay of 30 days.
Two identical visa receipts, which total US$70.
Note for US Passport Holders:
While in Eritrea, I was told that the visa rejection rate for US passport holders is quite high.
This is due to the fact that the United States government imposed sanctions on the Eritrean government in November of 2021 due to its role in the Tigray War in neighbouring Ethiopia.
If you are a US citizen, who is fortunate enough to own a 2nd passport, you should apply for an Eritrean visa using your non-US passport.
Getting There
Air
With all land borders closed, the only way to enter Eritrea is by flying into Asmara International Airport (IATA: ASM), the only airport in Eritrea.
With Eritrean Airlines currently grounded due to safety issues, Ethiopian Airlines are currently the de-facto airline of Eritrea, operating 17 flights per week between Addis Ababa and Asmara.
Included in the hefty ticket price is a ‘fee’ which Ethiopian airlines pay to the Eritrean government for the privilege of flying 17 times per week.
A standard return ticket between Addis and Asmara can cost up to US$500 for the 90-minute flight!
The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from Asmara:
The Asmara Palace hotel sends a shuttle bus to meet all incoming flights. If you are staying at the hotel, airport transfers are free. It’s a 5-minute drive from the airport to the hotel.
Yellow city taxis can also be found outside the airport. The fare should be negotiated before you commence your journey!
Land
Despite sharing land borders with Sudan, Ethiopia and Djibouti, all land borders are currently closed to tourists.
Sea
No scheduled passenger ships arrive at Massawa port.
Getting Around
An Italian-built bridge on the highway from Asmara to Massawa.
Much of the infrastructure which exists in Eritrea today was built by the Italians during their occupation of the country from 1882 to 1941.
An out-of-use railway viaduct lies alongside the Asmara to Massawa highway.
The Italian-built highway, which connects Asmara to the Red Sea coast at Massawa, follows alongside the Italian-built rail line, which has been closed for many years.
The Asmara to Massawa highway is congested with slow-moving trucks which haul goods up and down the mountains.
The highway which links the country’s capital to its only port is congested with trucks which haul goods up and down the mountains.
Many of the trucks (including two pictured above) carry locked containers which contain raw gold ore. While there are many gold mines in Eritrea, there is no smelter facility for processing the raw ore.
The only way to process the raw ore is to have a fleet of trucks haul the ore down to the port, where it is exported for processing.
A view of the Asmara to Massawa highway, as it crosses the coastal plain near Massawa.
The mandatory ‘travel permit’ is issued at this Tourist Information office in downtown Asmara.
Important:
Eritrea presents plenty of obstacles for the traveller. One such obstacle is the Travel Permit.
In order to travel outside of Asmara, you will need to apply for a travel permit. Without this permit, you will not get far and will be forced to return to Asmara.
The permit is issued at the Tourist Information office in downtown Asmara. You will need to present your passport and in return you’ll be issued with a travel permit.
You should ensure you make many photocopies of this permit as a copy can be requested, and retained, at the many highway checkpoints.
A benefit of travelling with Damera Tours was that they took care of the permit for me and they managed the checks at the various checkpoints. I would guess that in a week of travelling, they handed out a dozen copies of my travel permit.
In the town of Adi Keyh, the administrative centre for the Debub region, we stopped outside a non-descript building and waited while my guide submitted a copy of my travel permit to an official inside the building. Who would have known that was a requirement?
Bicycles
Cycling is the biggest sport in Eritrea, and its cyclists are the best in Africa – and increasingly among the best in the world.
A legacy of the Italian occupation, bicycles are the most popular form of transport in Eritrea. Like China 30 years ago, the streets of Asmara are full of people riding their bicycles.
Eritreans became fascinated with the sport of cycling when they watched Italian cyclists racing in the streets in the 1930s when their country was an Italian colony.
Apart from recreational riding, the sport of cycling is the #1 sport in Eritrea.
Due to its mountainous terrain, the highways in the countryside are the perfect place for racing teams to hone their skills and improve their endurance.
While travelling on the road from Asmara, down to Massawa, we passed dozens of teams racing up and down the mountains.
Bus
Public buses connect Asmara with all towns in Eritrea.
Inter-city buses connect Asmara with all major towns. Buses depart when full.
Taxi
Ubiquitous yellow taxis can be found everywhere in Asmara.
Yellow taxis are plentiful and everywhere.
Fares should be negotiated in advance!
Train
There are currently no trains operating in Eritrea.
Rental Cars
While there are a few rental car companies in Eritrea, including at the Asmara Palace Hotel, tourists are currently unable to rent cars by themselves. You can however rent a car with a driver!
That’s the end of my travel guide for Eritrea. If you have any comments or feedback, please contact me using the comment form below.
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01. This is the flag of which country?
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If you like crescent moon flags, be sure to do my "Crescent Moon Flags Quiz".
02. This is the current flag of the only former Swedish Caribbean colony, which is?
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03. This is the flag of which country?
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04. This is the flag of which country?
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05. The flag of which country is the only one which is not rectangular in shape?
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The triangular design of Nepal's Flag represents mountains. The triangles also represent the two main religions in Nepal - Hinduism and Buddhism.
06. This is the flag of which country?
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Green, yellow, and red are now found on the national flags of many African nations. The colour combination was borrowed from the flag of Ethiopia, the one African country which wasn't colonised.
07. This is the flag of which country?
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Like other flags in the region, the Kuwait flag features the pan-Arab colors of black, white, green and red.
Individually, each of the four Pan-Arab colors were intended to represent a certain aspect of the Arabs and their history.
08. This is the flag of which country?
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09. The flag of which country is double-sided so that the sword and the Shahada (pray) face the correct direction from either side?
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The inscription on the Saudi flag is the Islamic creed, or shahada: "There is no God but Allah; Muhammad is the Messenger of Allah".
10. The flag of which country is the only one that doesn't feature red, white or blue?
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11. This is the flag of which country?
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12. This is the flag of which country?
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The combination of the traditional Icelandic colours, blue and white, with red reflects historical links with Norway. The use of the cross symbolises Iceland's close ties with the rest of the Nordic countries.
13. This beautiful cake is decorated with the flag of which country?
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The Naseef café in Bahrain is the best place to sample a typical Bahraini breakfast. They also produce amazing cakes!
14. Which is the only flag in the world to feature a purple parrot?
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The Sisserou parrot, which is native to Dominica, is renown for its striking purple feathers.
The colour purple has long been associated with riches and royalty and was rarely used due to the high cost of purple pigment. Only in the 20th century did purple become widely accessible. Today, purple is still hardly seen on flags, although it does feature on the flags of Nicaragua and Dominica.
15. What's the name given to the study of flags?
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A person who studies flags is a vexillologist, one who designs flags is a vexillographer, and the art of designing flags is called vexillography. One who is a hobbyist or general admirer of flags is a vexillophile.
16. This flag belongs to a sovereign state which is recognised by the UN, maintains diplomatic relations with 107 countries, issues its own passports, stamps and currency - BUT - has no territory! Which is it?
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You can learn all about the fascinating Sovereign Military Order of Malta in my SMOM Travel Guide:
https://www.taste2travel.com/sovereign-military-order-of-malta-travel-guide/
17. This is the flag of which country?
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18. The flag of which country features a stylised representation of a "tunduk", the circular crown of a traditional yurt.
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The Tunduk is a national symbol of Kyrgyzstan. It functions as a rooftop crown in traditional Kyrgyz yurts.
According to the Kyrgyz, it provides a link between the earthly world and the spirit world.
19. This is the flag of which country?
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20. This is the flag of which country?
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Travel Quiz 55: World Flags
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Welcome to taste2travel!
My name is Darren McLean, I’m the owner of this website and I love travel trivia and I certainly enjoy creating travel quizzes.
As of today (August 2024), there are 76 different quizzes on taste2travel.
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Apart from excellent travel quizzes, you’ll also find other outstanding content on taste2travel – such as travel guides, photo galleries and feature articles which provide tips on booking cheap flights and much more.
Test your knowledge with this world currencies quiz from taste2travel.
How well will you score? Your result will be displayed at the bottom of the quiz – will you get to see the legendary Marco Polo?
Good luck!
01. This is the currency of which country?
Correct!Wrong!
02. Which local currency would you be spending if you were visiting San Marino?
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03. Featuring Che Guevara, the Cuban peso (CUP) is one of how many official currencies in circulation in Cuba?
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Until 1st January 2021, Cuba had two currencies - the CUP (Cuban peso) and the CUC (Cuban Convertible peso) which was previously used by tourists and by Cubans who wished to purchase imported products.
Since 1st of January 2021, the only Cuban currency in circulation is the Cuban peso (CUP).
04. Which two countries have adopted the United States dollar as their official currency?
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05. The Pacific franc is the official currency of how many French territories?
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The Pacific franc is the official currency of New Caledonia, French Polynesia and Wallis and Futuna.
06. Which is the official currency of the United Arab Emirates?
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07. How many countries use the Euro?
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The latest country to join the euro club is Croatia, who adopted the euro on the 1st of January, 2023.
08. In which country would you be spending reais (or reals)?
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09. Which local currency would you be spending if you were visiting Socotra?
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10. Which local currency would you be spending if you were shopping for Bermuda shorts on Bermuda?
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11. Which is the official currency of Uzbekistan?
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12. Which is the official currency of Indonesia?
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13. Which local currency would you be spending if you were shopping in Copenhagen?
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14. Which is the official currency of Bhutan?
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15. Which is the official currency of Cocos (Keeling) Islands?
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16. Which local currency would you be spending if you were shopping in Manila, Philippines?
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17. Which president is featured on the front of the United States $2 bank note?
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18. Which is the official currency of Greenland?
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19. If you are travelling to Vietnam, which currency will you need?
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20. Which local currency would you be spending if you were visiting Baku, Azerbaijan?
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Travel Quiz 54: World Currencies
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Welcome to taste2travel!
My name is Darren McLean, I’m the owner of this website and I love travel trivia and I certainly enjoy creating travel quizzes.
As of today (August 2024), there are 76 different quizzes on taste2travel.
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You’ll find a range of quizzes covering such topics as:
Currencies
Flags
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UNESCO World Heritage Sites
World Museums
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Continent-specific Quizzes
World Islands
Landlocked Countries and much more!
If you have an idea for a topic which I could add to my quiz stable, please do not hesitate to contact me via the Contactpage. I’m always looking for new ideas.
Don’t forget to share these quizzes with your family, friends and community using the social media buttons at the top of the quiz.
Apart from excellent travel quizzes, you’ll also find other outstanding content on taste2travel – such as travel guides, photo galleries and feature articles which provide tips on booking cheap flights and much more.
Other travel-related quizzes are also available on BuzzFeed.
Travel Quizzes on taste2travel
Welcome to taste2travel!
My name is Darren McLean, I’m the owner of this website and I love travel trivia and I certainly enjoy creating travel quizzes.
As of today (August 2024), there are 76 different quizzes on taste2travel.
This number will continue to grow so don’t forget to check back periodically.
Each quiz on taste2travel contains 20 questions, which means there is a total of 1,520 travel trivia questions waiting to challenge you.
In fact, taste2travel has enough trivia questions to keep a pub trivia night going for many weeks.
You’ll find a range of quizzes covering such topics as:
Currencies
Flags
Capital Cities
UNESCO World Heritage Sites
World Museums
Map Quizzes
Continent-specific Quizzes
World Islands
Landlocked Countries and much more!
If you have an idea for a topic which I could add to my quiz stable, please do not hesitate to contact me via the Contactpage. I’m always looking for new ideas.
Don’t forget to share these quizzes with your family, friends and community using the social media buttons at the top of the quiz.
Apart from excellent travel quizzes, you’ll also find other outstanding content on taste2travel – such as travel guides, photo galleries and feature articles which provide tips on booking cheap flights and much more.
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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 35 years and, 215 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
The magical and mythical Kingdom of Bhutan is no ordinary destination. Known by the Bhutanese as Druk Yul, meaning “Land of the Thunder Dragon“, Bhutan is a modern-day Shangri-La.
A view of Thimphu valley from the hiking trail to Druk Wangditse Lhakhang.
The Last Shangri-La?
When English author James Hilton wrote Lost Horizon in 1933, he portrayed a fictional kingdom, Shangri-La, as a mystical, harmonious valley, gently guided from a lamasery, enclosed in the western end of the Kunlun Mountains.
Overlooking Thimphu, the 51.5 metres (169 ft) high Buddha Dordenma statue is one of the largest Buddha statues in the world.
Shangri-La has become synonymous with any earthly paradise, particularly a mythical Himalayan utopia – an enduringly happy land, isolated from the world, a description which wholly fits the Kingdom of Bhutan.
Handwoven fabrics at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.
Tourism Policy
Long closed to the outside world, the Kingdom of Bhutan only started to open its borders in the 1970’s, with the first tourists arriving in 1974.
Bhutan is known as “Druk Yul”, meaning “Land of the Thunder Dragon”.
Though open to foreigners, the Bhutanese government is acutely aware of the environmental impact tourists can have on Bhutan’s unique and virtually unspoiled landscape and culture.
Built as a memorial, the 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens at Dochula Pass are a spectacular sight.
Accordingly, the government has restricted the level of tourist activity under a policy known as “high value, low impact”.
Buddhist artwork, in a gift shop in Paro.
As part of this policy, tourists can only travel to Bhutan on a fully-escorted tour, which is organised through a local Bhutanese tour company. It is through the tour company that flights and visas will be arranged.
Houses in Bhutan are wonderfully decorative and often feature ejaculating phalluses.
Independent travel is possible for citizens of the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation (SAARC) countries – India, Maldives and Bangladesh, although they are required to apply for a permit in advance.
The Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery in Punakha features a Nepalese-style Chorten (Stupa).
As part of their high value, low impact policy, the government restricts tourist numbers by charging a mandatory Sustainable Development Fee, a tourist tax, charged at a, post-pandemic, rate of US$200 per person/ per night.
Temple embroidery for sale in the gift shop at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.
On a typical 7D/6N itinerary, this equates to a tax of US$1,200 per person!
Punakha Dzong (fortress) is a highlight of Bhutan.
In addition to paying this tax, visitors are required to pay for a tour, airfare and a visa. My one week, all inclusive, trip cost around US$3,600 which included return flights from Singapore.
Prayer flags flutter on Punakha suspension bridge – the longest such bridge in Bhutan.
I travelled with the Dana Bhutan travel company, which I would highly recommend! More details regarding tour costs and Dana Bhutan are included in the ‘Tour Companies‘ section below.
Charming Bhutan
A monk playing football at Khuruthang Lhakhang.
Bhutan is a charming mix of the old and modern! While almost everyone wears traditional dress, which has remained unchanged since the 17th century, their outfits contain a large pocket which is handy for carrying their smartphones.
The entrance to the temple at Punakha Dzong.
Despite their isolation, the Bhutanese are modern, educated and fully informed about the outside world, with many having studied abroad on government grants. Despite a ban on television and internet only being lifted in 1999, the Bhutanese today are online and tech savvy.
The Bhutanese are always polite, courteous and very welcoming to visitors, going out of their way to provide the best of service.
The beautiful Nepalese-style Stupa at Khuruthang Lhakhang.
This Himalayan Kingdom offers a pristine environment complete with stunning landscapes of snow-capped peaks, picturesque valleys, majestic, medieval-era fortresses and monasteries, all of which are connected by a network of winding, mountain roads and lots of hiking trails.
Rice paddies in the Punakha Valley.
Despite the costs, Bhutan is a once-in-a-lifetime travel destination, a fascinating Himalayan Kingdom which should be experienced by anyone in search of Shangri-La.
Highly recommended!
Prayer wheel in Punakha Valley.
Location
Thimphu, Bhutan
Bhutan is a country of south-central Asia, located on the eastern ridges of the Himalayas.
This remote kingdom is located in a geographically strategic position, sandwiched between the Assam-Bengal Plain of India to the south and the Plateau of Tibet of southwestern China to the north.
Due to the towering Himalayas forming an impenetrable barrier along the Bhutan-China border, there are no road connections with China and the border remains closed. There have been territorial disputes in the past which have all been initiated by China! China currently has territorial disputes with both Bhutan and India.
Located on the Bhutan – Tibet border, Jomolhari, as seen from Paro Valley, is Bhutan’s second highest mountain with an elevation of 7,326 m / 24,035 ft.
There are limited road connections with India, which is the major trading partner for Bhutan. Bhutan enjoys a close relationship with India.
The main urbans centres are Thimphu (pop: 114,000) and Paro (pop: 11,400), both of which are located in narrow valleys in the Lesser Himalayan region.
Physically, Bhutan may be divided into three regions from north to south: the Great Himalayas, the Lesser Himalayas, and the Duars Plain.
People
A group of school children from a special needs school at the National Museum of Bhutan.
With a total population of 780,000 (2021), Bhutan is home to three major ethnic groups: the Bhutia, the Nepalese, and the Sharchop.
The Bhutia are the largest ethnic group and make up about half of the population. They are the descendants of Tibetan immigrants who came southward into Bhutan beginning about the 9th century. The Bhutia are dominant in northern, central, and western Bhutan.
They speak a variety of Tibeto-Burman languages, and the most common of these, Dzongkha, is Bhutan’s official language; the written language is identical with Tibetan. The Bhutia dominate Bhutan’s political life.
Young girl in the Paro Valley.
The Nepalese, who constitute about 1/3 of Bhutan’s population, are recent arrivals. The growing number of Nepalese prompted the government to ban further immigration from Nepal beginning in 1959 and to prohibit Nepalese settlement in central Bhutan.
The minority Sharchop, occupy eastern Bhutan and are related to the hill tribes from the neighbouring Indian states of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh.
Traditional Dress
One of the most surprising sights in Bhutan is that almost everyone wears traditional dress. While the Bhutanese always look smart and formal, foreigners are always down-dressed by comparison, wearing their casual travelling attire.
Men
Two school boys in Paro wearing their traditional dress school uniforms.
The men wear the very smart and formal looking gho, which was introduced in the 17th century to give the Bhutanese a more distinctive identity.
The gho is a knee-length robe tied at the waist by a cloth belt known as the kera. This is complimented by knee-length, black socks and formal black, leather shoes.
Always impeccably dressed, my guide Jamyang (right) with two fellow guides at the Buddha Dordenma temple.
Under the gho, men wear a tego, a white jacket with long, folded-back cuffs. On festive occasions, the gho is worn with a kabney – a scarf, which is draped over the shoulder
Women
Two women at the Babesa restaurant in Thimphu, wearing traditional dress.
Bhutanese women can normally be seen wearing the traditional kira, an ankle-length dress consisting of a rectangular piece of woven fabric.
A worshiper at the Dordenma Buddha temple complex.
It is wrapped and folded around the body and is pinned at both shoulders, usually with silver brooches and bound at the waist with a long belt.
Two women at the Buddha Dordenma temple wearing traditional dress.
The kira is usually worn with a wonju, a long-sleeved blouse.
Imported from India, these rolls of fabric are used for making Bhutanese traditional clothing.
The material for all traditional clothing is imported from India and can be purchased, by the metre, in shops in Paro and Thimphu.
Gross National Happiness Index
A diagram illustrating the nine domains of the GNH Index, which are further supported by 33 indicators. Image Source: https://www.researchgate.net/
Uniquely Bhutanese, the Gross National Happiness Index is a measure of well-being which should serve as an inspiration for other countries!
The Gross National Happiness Index (GNH) is a holistic approach to measure the happiness and wellbeing of the Bhutanese population.
The index, which consists of nine domains and thirty-three indicators was developed by the Bhutanese government who consider the traditional GDP indicator (used by every other country) to be fundamentally flawed.
As per the Bhutanese government, narrow framings of development founded on GDP growth have led to multiple ecological, social and political-economic crises across the world that threaten the survival of humans and socio-ecologies.
Under the GDP system, a country’s success has been based upon its economic success which is usually derived from over-consumption, deep inequality and resource depletion. This has led to a call for ‘de-growth’.
The GNH provides a working, and successful, example of an alternative living measure that challenges GDP metrics. The index places happiness at the centre of human development – not economic gain!
In addition to analysing the happiness and wellbeing of the people, it also guides government development policy.
Having spent a week travelling and meeting the Bhutanese, I can attest that they seem to be genuinely happy.
A Country Without Killing
There are no slaughter houses in Bhutan – life, and nature, are fully protected under the laws of Bhutan!
As a society which was founded on Buddhist beliefs, the killing of anything is strictly forbidden under Bhutanese law. Cows, pigs, and sheep are never killed, while hunting and fishing is strictly forbidden.
The government does not allow killing of animals for consumption. In fact, you can get arrested and fined if you slaughter an animal.
Being Buddhists, the Bhutanese are largely vegetarian, with the average yearly meat consumption being just 2.5 kg per person (versus 120 kg per person/ per year in the United States). The little meat that is consumed is imported from India.
With all life protected under Bhutanese law, every creature enjoys a happy existence, including the many, ever-present, street dogs!
Environmental Policy
Bhutan boats 75% forest cover and a pristine, litter-free, environment.
In order to protect its pristine environment, the government of Bhutan has enacted many strict environmental laws.
One such law bans the felling of trees! If trees are needed for construction, an application is required to be made to the government, who will authorise certain trees for felling.
Golden rice paddies in Paro Valley.
Bhutan boasts more than 75% forest cover and has an active tree replanting program.
The country currently holds the Guinness World Record for the largest number of trees planted, with 100 volunteers planting 49,672 trees in one hour on the slopes above Thimphu.
Mining permits are extremely difficult to obtain and any polluting industry is banned! During my travels in Bhutan, I did not see one chimney stack or any real factories.
Strict environmental policies and other government regulations ensures Bhutan remains a clean, safe and pristine environment.
Electricity is generated using hydro power and is a major export earner for Bhutan, with electricity exports to India accounting for 63.3% (2020) of total export earnings.
The numerous environmental policies ensures that Bhutan remains a pristine environment!
Flag
The flag of Bhutan features a dragon clutching four jewels in its claws.
The iconic and striking flag of Bhutan is divided diagonally from the lower hoist-side corner, with the upper triangle yellow and the lower triangle orange.
Running along the horizontal divide is a Chinese dragon which alludes to the Dzongkha name of Bhutan – Druk Yul (“Dragon Kingdom”). The dragon is holding a norbu, or jewel, in each of its claws.
The flag of Bhutan features on the livery of the national airline, Druk Air.
The yellow half signifies civil tradition and authority as embodied in the Druk Gyalpo, the Dragon King of Bhutan, whose royal robes traditionally includes a yellow scarf.
The orangehalf signifies Buddhist spiritual tradition, while the white of the dragon signifies the purity of inner thoughts and deeds that unite all the ethnically and linguistically diverse peoples of Bhutan.
The jewels held in Druk’s claws represent Bhutan’s wealth and the security and protection of its people.
Currency
The official currency of Bhutan is the ngultrum.
The ngultrum (currency code: BTN) is the official currency of the Kingdom of Bhutan. It can be literally translated as ‘silver’ for ngul and ‘money’ for trum.
A 20-Ngultrum banknote which features Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, the 3rd king of Bhutan.
A branch of the Bhutan National Bank at the GPO in Thimphu.
Cash can be withdrawn at ATMs in Paro (including at the airport) and in Thimphu.
Money can be exchanged at any bank branch.
The 20-ngultrum banknote features Punakha Dzong.
Costs
All travel costs are included in your tour.
The only additional expenses will be any incidentals such as shopping, cafes outings and alcohol.
Shopping
Paro offers the best souvenir shopping in Bhutan.
Bhutan is home to many traditional cottage industries which produce high quality products. The best shopping is in Paro where the short main street is dominated by souvenir shops.
A shop on the main street of Paro. The shopfront is decorated with strands of red chillies.
Popular items include hand-woven textiles, hand-made wooden products, artworks, sculptures, hand-made home décor items, colourful wooden masks, Buddhist paintings and much more.
Philately
The main GPO in Thimphu serves as the headquarters of Bhutan Post Office.
The first postage stamps of Bhutan were issued in 1962 by the Bhutan Post Office. This coincided with the opening of the first motorable road. Before that there was a mail delivery system in place for official mail using mail runners.
The stamps of Bhutan are highly collectable.
A replica of the most famous mail runner, Jaga Tarshi, can be seen in the Postal Museum which is adjacent to the GPO in Thimphu.
The glorious food of Bhutan is just one of many themes which have been featured on stamps.
Also known as “Flagpole”, Jaga Tarshi was a giant of a man at 218 cm (7 Feet 2 inches) and was famous for the fact that he could cover a distance of over 200 km in a single day, wearing just a pair of cowhide sandals.
The stamps of Bhutan feature the flora and fauna of Bhutan.
Innovative Stamps
Although Bhutan came late to the philatelic world, it has blazed a trail with many innovative stamp issues – many of which have been world firsts.
In 1973, Bhutan Post Office issued a set of vinyl record stamps – a world first.
In 1966, the first ‘world’s first‘ stamps issued by Bhutan Post office were a set of round gold foil stamps. These were issued as a limited release to gauge market reaction. The issue was over-subscribed which led to more innovative stamps being produced.
In 1967, Bhutan issued the world’s first 3D stamps which celebrated the Apollo-11 space mission.
In 1969, a set of steel stamps were printed on razor-thin 0.001-inch steel foil, a world first.
Also in 1969, a set of silk stamps was issued by Bhutan Post.
In 1971, Bhutan issued the world’s first plastic stamps which celebrated the history of sculpture. During the production process, the stamps were pressed inside a heated pressure mould which created a bas-relief effect.
In 1973, Bhutan issued the world’s first phonogramrecord stamps – circular vinyl stamps which could be played on a standard record player. The stamps play the Royal Bhutan Anthem, folk-songs and a short history of Bhutan.
In 1994, Hologram stamps were issued which celebrated ‘man in space’.
In 2008, two CD-ROM stamps were issued which could be played in a CD player and featured a promotional video of Bhutan. Following the success of the first issue, two additional CD-ROM stamps were issued in 2009.
The latest innovative stamp issue was released on the 20th of September 2022 and features a set of NFT/ Crypto stamps.
In 2008, Bhutan Post Office released this world-first CD-ROM stamp.
All of these stamps can be seen in the excellent Postal Museum.
The current stamp issues of Bhutan can be purchased from the Bhutan Post Office online stamp shop of from the philately shop at Thimphu GPO.
To commemorate the 60th birth anniversary of the fourth King, Bhutan Post printed this stamp using silver and gold foil.
Bhutan Postal Museum
An entire wall of the Bhutan Postal Museum is decorated with stamps.
Adjacent to the philatelic department at Thimphu Post Office, the excellent Bhutan Postal Museum outlines the history of postal services in the kingdom, along with displays of the various, unique, stamp issues.
Far from being full of stuffy displays of stamps, the museum includes exhibitions which tells the story of early postal delivery, which was performed by large, athletic men who hiked across the mountainous terrain to deliver the post.
All of the innovative stamp issues mentioned above are on display in the museum. A highlight for me was an entire wall which has been covered in Bhutanese stamps – truly impressive.
Tour Companies
“Happiness is a way of travel – not a destination.” – Quote from Deki Tshering, owner of Dana Bhutan travel company.
Foreign visitors can only visit Bhutan as part of a package tour. The only exceptions are for passport holders from the SAARC countries – i.e. India, Bangladesh and Maldives.
By law, all are required to charge you the identical daily rate, inclusive of car, driver, translator/guide, hotel, and food. The only costs not covered are incidentals such as souvenirs, tips, alcohol and airfare.
There are four costs associated with a trip to Bhutan – the return airfare, tour fee, visa fee and the government ‘Sustainable Development Fee‘ (SDF), which is simply a tourist tax which is charged at a rate of US$200 per night, per person. Prior to Covid-19, the government charged a tax of US$65 per night!
Dana Bhutan Tour Company
A few years ago, while attending ITB Asia, the largest trade travel show in Asia, which is held each October in Singapore, I was fortunate to meet the wonderfully energetic and enthusiastic Deki Tshering, who is the owner of Dana Bhutan travel company.
Deki was working on the Bhutan Tourism stand and convinced me that I needed to visit Bhutan – although I needed no convincing!
Deki and I at the Mountain Cafe and Roastery in Paro.
I knew from the moment we met that I would only travel to Bhutan using her tour company. I was planning a trip to Bhutan in 2020 which of course was cancelled due to Covid-19.
I kept in contact with Deki during Bhutan’s long lockdown period, until she eventually informed me that Bhutan would finally reopen to tourism in September of 2022. I booked my trip to arrive in Bhutan the following month, ahead of the expected surge of tourist arrivals.
I was greeted at Paro airport by Deki and my friendly, and always impeccably dressed, guide (Jamyang) and driver (Thukten).
Deki (2nd left) organised a picnic lunch for me in Paro which included delicious Bhutanese vegetarian dishes which she personally cooked. An amazing lunch!
I spent one amazing week touring Bhutan with Jamyang and Thukten and was even treated to a picnic lunch in Paro by Deki.
For the picnic, Deki, who is known for her cooking skills, prepared a selection of her favourite Bhutanese dishes, all of which were vegetarian and all very tasty.
The tasty selection of dishes served by Deki at our picnic lunch.
Hospitality and service in Bhutan is on another level and should be experienced by everyone at some stage in life.
The Bhutanese are incredibly friendly, polite and welcoming. Rarely did I carry my (heavy) camera bag as my driver and guide insisted on carrying it for me, including on uphill hikes! Incredible!
My amazing driver (left) and guide (right) – Thukten and Jamyang respectively.
I would highly recommend using the services of Dana Bhutan travel company for your trip to Bhutan.
The cost of my one-week, fully inclusive, trip to Bhutan was US$3,468 which was comprised of the following components:
Government tourist tax (aka ‘Sustainability Development Fee‘) @ US$200 x 6 nights = US$1,200
Cost of return airfare from Singapore to Paro with Druk Air = US$1,198
Cost of one-week tour with Dana Bhutan = US$1,030
Visa fee = US$40
All costs need to be paid to the Bhutanese tour company in advance via bank transfer. Credit cards are rarely used in Bhutan!
Sightseeing
My trip included drives from Paro to Thimphu to the Punakha Valley and back.
The trip from Thimphu to Punakha is spectacular; 27 km as the crow flies but 85 km (and 2.5 hours) by road over the 3,100 metre (10,170 ft) Dochula Pass.
Rarely in Bhutan did we exceed the maximum speed limit which is set at 50 km/h. Most roads are narrow and winding, climbing up and down towering mountain ranges.
Thimphu
After arriving at Paro International Airport, we drove to Thimphu, the capital and largest city of Bhutan. The 50 km drive is along a slow, mostly winding road with a travel time of 1¼ hours
Buddha Dordenma
One of the world’s largest Buddha statues, the Buddha Dordenma is 51.5 metres (169 ft) in height.
Towering over Thimphu is one of the largest Buddha statues in the world. Buddha Dordenma is a massive statue of Shakyamuni which measures in at a height of 51.5 metres (169 ft).
Detail of a temple roof at the Buddha Dordenma temple complex.
The statue was built to fulfil an ancient prophecy that stated that once a statue was built on this site, an aura of peace and happiness would spread across the entire world. This clearly hasn’t happened yet!
Sitting atop a huge meditation hall, the Buddha Dordenma exudes peace and tranquility.
The statue is made of bronze and is gilded in gold and was constructed over a period of 9 years at a cost of US$47 million.
An image of serenity, the Buddha Dordenma is located on a mountain slope, overlooking the capital, Thimphu.
No less than 125,000 smaller Buddha statues have been placed within the Buddha Dordenma statue. Each of these statues have also been cast in bronze and gilded in gold.
A worshipper, circumambulating the Buddha Dordenma.
The throne that the Buddha Dordenma sits upon is a large meditation hall which can be visited but photography is strictly forbidden.
Buddha Dordenma, radiating peace and serenity over Thimphu Valley.
The Buddha Dordenma is located atop a hill in Kuenselphodrang Nature Park and overlooks the southern entrance to Thimphu Valley.
Worshipers entering the Buddha Dordenma temple.
Kuenselphodrang Nature Park was the setting for a massive tree planting exercise in 2015 which set a world record for the ‘most trees planted in one hour’ with 49,672 trees planted by 100 volunteers.
During my visit to the temple, the religious leader of Bhutan, Je Khenpo, was leading worshippers in a month-long pray.
Worshipers arriving at the Buddha Dordenma temple to hear prays from the religious leader of Bhutan.
This involved his Holiness reading prays, almost uninterrupted, from sunrise to sunset, 7 days a week, for the entire month of October. Yes – 31 days of continuous pray!
Volunteers at the Buddha Dordenma temple distribute free fruit to worshipers.
For the entire month, the temple is crowded with worshippers who travel from around the country to join the pray.
During the month of October, thousands of worshippers gather at Buddha Dordenma to hear prays from the religious leader of Bhutan.
As you can hear in the following video recording, his Holiness hardly stops to catch his breath, although he does take the occasional tea and toilet break. An incredible feat!
Volunteer attendants at the monthly pray meeting are easily identifiable in their orange uniforms.
Video:
The religious leader of Bhutan, Je Khenpo, reciting prays at the Buddha Dordenma temple in Thimphu during the month of October.
National Institute for Zorig Chusum
Students at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum in Thimphu.
Located in downtown Thimphu, the National Institute for Zorig Chusum was established by the Government of Bhutan in 1971 to preserve and promote traditional art in contemporary Bhutan.
A woodcarving class at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.
The words ‘Zorig Chusum’, which literally means “Thirteen Crafts”, refer to the 13 crafts which are taught at the institute.
An art class at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.
These crafts are:
Traditional Painting
Sculpture
Wood Carving
Calligraphy
Paper making
Bronze Casting
Embroidery
Weaving
Carpentry
Masonry
Bamboo and cane weaving
Gold/Silver smithy
Black smithy
Sculpture class at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.
The institute provides 4-6 years of training to each student.
The prayer wheel at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.
During our visit, I was free to enter the different classrooms to view classes in progress and interact with the friendly students who were all keen to tell me about their chosen craft.
Handmade traditional boots for sale at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum.
A large gift shop sells the works from the students at very reasonable prices – a great place to purchase souvenirs.
Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre
A range of exquisite handwoven fabrics, on sale at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.
Handwoven fabrics at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.
Downstairs, its weavers produce the most exquisite handwoven textiles. A finely embroidered kira can take nine months to make and cost over US$1,200.
A weaver, at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.
Upstairs, a large gift shop is paradise for anyone looking to buy handwoven Bhutanese textiles, with items ranging from a few dollars to a few thousand dollars!
Traditional Bhutanese boots, on sale at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu.
Druk Wangditse Lhakhang
Fully renovated over a period of 5 years, the Druk Wangditse Lhakhang (temple) was reopened in 2020.
Druk Wangditse Lhakhang (“Temple of the Peak of Conquest”) is located high on a forested ridge which overlooks the whole of Thimphu valley. This is the best place to get photos of the entire capital, framed by colourful pray flags.
Druk Wangditse Lhakhang is one of the oldest temples in Thimphu, and considered an important heritage site of Bhutan.
The temple, which was established in 1715, suffered major damage during an earthquake in 2011. It was reopened in 2020 following a complete renovation.
Doorway at the Druk Wangditse Lhakhang.
The restored temple contains a large gilt copper image of Shakyamuni Buddha. As with all temples in Bhutan – photography inside the temple is forbidden.
The temple is accessed via a hiking trail with runs along the top of a ridge. The 45-minute hike commences from the Bhutan Broadcasting System Tower.
Dochula Pass
The 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens were installed on a hillock, at Dochula Pass, in 2003 as a memorial to the 108 Bhutanese soldiers who died fighting Indian rebels.
The long and winding highway which connects Thimphu with Punakha slowly climbs its way up to the Dochula Pass which sits at an elevation of 3,100 metres (10,170 ft).
A view of the main Chorten which is surrounded by three rows of smaller Chortens.
The pass offers an (apparently) amazing 360-degree panoramic view of the Eastern Himalayas on a clear day.
The Druk Wangyal Chortens are built on a grassy mound which forms a roundabout in the middle of the highway.
These towering peaks are very shy and often hidden by cloud. Although I made two visits, I never got to see this amazing panorama.
A view of the 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens at Dochula Pass, a spectacular memorial located at Dochula Pass.
Adding to the dramatic setting are 108 memorial chorten (stupas) known as Druk Wangyal Chortens which have been installed on a grassy hillock in the centre of the road.
The Chortens were constructed following a strict religious building process.
Built in three succeeding rows, the chortens were constructed to honour martyred Bhutanese soldiers who sacrificed their lives in a battle against Indian insurgents in 2003.
I treated my driver and guide to coffee and fresh eclairs at the Druk Wangyel Café. Everyone was happy!
Dochula Pass is a popular stop on the journey between Thimphu and Punakha with all tourists stopping to take photos and enjoy the offerings of the Druk Wangyel Café. I treated my driver and guide to coffee and freshly made eclairs which were divine.
A Gray Langur monkey, and her infant, at Dochula Pass.
While we were at the pass, I spotted a troop of Gray Langur monkeys swinging through the trees.
A very timid and elusive species, most of the monkeys scattered into the forest before I could get any decent photos. One monkey which stuck around for photos was a mother who was nursing an infant. Very special!
The very elusive, Gray Langur monkey, at Dochula Pass.
My guide told me that the Bhutanese consider the sighting of Gray Langur monkeys to be very auspicious.
Punakha
Punakha Dzong
Located at the confluence of two rivers, Punakha Dzong is said to be the most beautiful fortress in Bhutan.
Known as the ‘Palace of Great Happiness’, Punakha Dzong is said to be the most beautiful fortress in Bhutan.
The temple complex inside Punakha Dzong.
The fortress was built in 1637 at the confluence of two rivers, the Mo Chhu (Female River) and the Po Chhu (Male River), at a location said to have been chosen by the founder of Bhutan.
My guide, Jamyang, entering the temple at Punakha Dzong.
The fortress served as the administrative centre and the seat of the Government of Bhutan until 1955 when the capital was moved to Thimphu.
The fortress-monastery lies at the centre of the complex which once served as the capital of Bhutan.
Today, the fortress is divided into two halves, with one half serving as a religious complex and the other half housing the administrative offices of Punakha district.
This fortress, which is accessed via a covered wooden bridge which crosses the Mo Chhu, is the home of Bhutan’s spirituality.
The remains of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel, the founder of Bhutan, are preserved inside the Machey Lhakhang (temple). Access to this temple is reserved for the King and the spiritual leader of Bhutan.
Doorway at Punakha Dzong.
It is a Punakha Dzong that Bhutan’s Kings are crowned and the head of the Buddhist clergy anointed.
Prayer wheel at the entrance of Punakha Dzong.
Punakha Suspension Bridge
Punakha suspension Bridge is the longest such bridge in Bhutan, measuring 180 metres (590 ft) in length.
Bhutan is famous for its numerous suspension bridges, which span its many raging rivers. Punakha suspension bridge is the longest such bridge in Bhutan, measuring 180 metres (590 ft) in length.
The Punakha suspension bridge crosses the fast-flowing Po Chhu River (Male River).
The bridge, which spans the Po Chhu River (Male River) is decked with many colourful prayer flags which flutter in the brisk breeze which is generated by the raging waters of the river.
A school student, on her way home, crossing the Punakha suspension bridge.
Although the current bridge is a modern construction, the first bridge was built in 1637 by the great architect and iron bridge builder Thangtong Gyalpo, the same man who built the iron bridge at Paro (see following section).
The bridge is used by local school children whose school is located on the other side of the river.
The bridge connects Punakha Dzong with Punakha town and is used by locals, including school children whose school is located on the opposite side of the river.
Prayer flags on Punakha suspension bridge.
Chimi Lhakhang
A view of Chimi Lhakhang and its unique black stupa – the only one in Bhutan.
Located near the town of Lobesa, Chimi Lhakhang (temple) is popularly known to be the fertility temple among many and is frequented by childless couples and others alike for blessings.
A prayer wheel at Chimi Lhakhang.
The temple was built in the 15th century by Lama Drukpa Kunley, who was popularly known as the ‘Divine Madman’. He was known for his unorthodox teachings and was the saint who advocated the use of phallus symbols as paintings on walls.
A young girl at Chimi Lhakhang.
Legend says that Lama Drukpa Kunley killed a demoness, turned her into a dog and buried the hound under the mound.
He then said ‘chi-med’, meaning no dog, and built a black stupa on top of a mound. The temple is unique for being the only temple with a black stupa.
A prayer wheel at Chimi Lhakhang.
The temple is the repository of the original wooden symbol of phallus that Kunley brought from Tibet.
A monk, teaching an outdoor class at Chimi Lhakhang.
This wooden phallus is used to bless people who visit the monastery on pilgrimage, particularly women seeking blessings to beget children.
As with all temples in Bhutan – photography inside the temple is forbidden!
An outdoor school at Chimi Lhakhang.
Phalluses Everywhere!
Almost all homes in the village of Lobesa feature ejaculating penises on their exterior walls.
Widely seen throughout the Kingdom, the phallus is an occult emblem in Bhutan that represents protection from evil and good fortune.
A shop in Lobesa is adorned with a ‘shooting’ phallus.
Bhutanese people have held this notion for generations. They also consider the phallus as a symbol of fertility.
Decorated phalluses for sale in a gift shop in Lobesa.
The walls of most houses in Lobesa are adorned with large, painted, phalluses, while gift shops in town offer a large range of phallus-themed souvenirs.
Size doesn’t matter! Me (190 cm), posing next to a giant phallus in a Lobesa giftshop.
Around town, ornate penises can be seen everywhere, flanking household doorways, hanging off rooftops, or used as signage or gimmicks.
Bhutan offers an interesting selection of souvenirs!
Khuruthang Lhakhang
Khuruthang Lhakhang features a Nepalese-style Chorten (Stupa).
Located in the charmless town of Khuruthang, Khuruthang Lhakhang (temple) was constructed in 2005 under the patronage of the Queen Mother.
Prayer wheels at Khuruthang Lhakhang.
While the temple is located on the main road which leads to the much more famous Punakha Dzong, most tourists seem to give it a miss.
The Stupa at Khuruthang Lhakhang.
I asked my guide to make a stop as the light was dazzling. I enjoyed photographing the large white, Nepalese-style, Chorten (Stupa) and also had the opportunity to photograph a couple of monks who were kicking a football around the temple grounds.
Worth the stop!
Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery
A nun, circumambulating the Chorten (Stupa) at the Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery.
Perched precariously on top of a narrow ridge overlooking Toebesa, Punakha and Wangdue valleys, Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery is a temple and nunnery complex which is supported by the Queen Mother, who lives in a residence next door.
The Stupa was modelled after Kathmandu’s Boudhanath stupa.
One of the few nunneries in Bhutan, it was built as a Buddhist college for nuns and currently houses about 120 nuns.
The stupa at Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery.
During my visit, I met one young nun, who had just joined, and planned to remain there for at least 10 years.
This nun planned to spend 10 years at the nunnery.
A highlight of the complex is a large white stupa which is modelled on Kathmandu’s Boudhanath stupa.
Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten
Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten was built to ward off evil spirits and to bring world peace.
A modern temple, Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten was constructed in 2004, under the patronage of the Queen Mother, to ward off evil spirits in Bhutan and across the world, and to bring peace and harmony to all living things.
A view of the rice paddies in Punakha Valley from the rooftop of Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten.
Despite being a modern construction, the temple looks much older due to the fact that it was built following strict traditional building methods. It took Bhutanese carpenters, painters and sculptors nine years to build the four-story, pagoda-style stupa.
Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten is located on a mountain ridge, overlooking the Punakha Valley.
One interesting feature of the temple is the rooftop terrace which offers panoramic views of Punakha Valley and beyond.
Panoramic views of the Punakha Valley from the rooftop terrace.
The temple is reached via a 40-minute, uphill, hiking trail which starts from a footbridge in Yepaisa Village. The village is the starting point for rafting trips down the Mo Chhu (Female River).
Paro
Tachog Lhakhang and the Iron Bridge
The Iron Bridge, which spans the Paro River, was constructed in 1433 from hand-forged iron chain links.
Located on the outskirts of Paro, overlooking the Paro River, Tachog Lhakhang is one of several temples in Paro believed to have been founded by the Tibetan monk, Thangtong Gyalpo (1385-1464).
This new suspension bridge has replaced the defunct Iron Bridge.
Thangtong Gyalpo is better known as the Iron Bridge Maker for his pioneering engineering works, including chain-link suspension bridges. He was a man ahead of his time!
A view of the Tachog Lhakhang (temple) from across the Paro River.
Prior to the temple being built, an iron bridge was constructed in 1433 under Gyalpo’s direction. Called the Tamchog Chakzam, it was constructed of multiple lengths of handmade iron chains secured by gatehouses at opposite banks of the Paro River.
A view of the Iron Bridge and one of the former guardhouses.
Ropes tied between the chains allowed for foot traffic in both directions.
National Museum of Bhutan
The entrance to the National Museum of Bhutan, which is housed in a former watchtower.
Located on a ridge overlooking Paro valley, the National Museum of Bhutan is a cultural museum which boasts over 3,000 works of Bhutanese art, covering more than 1,500 years of Bhutan’s cultural heritage.
The museum, which is perched on a ridge, above Paro Dzong (Paro Fortress), is housed in its former watchtower (ta dzong) which dates from 1649. The watchtower was renovated in 1968 to house the museum but was damaged during the earthquake of 2011.
School children, visiting the National Museum of Bhutan.
Following renovations, the National Museum was reopened in 2020, just as the Covid-19 pandemic was shutting down the entire world.
The museum today is open and receiving visitors who enter at the top of the tower and exit at the bottom. The museum grounds offer panoramic views of Paro Dzong, Paro Airport, Paro, and the Paro valley.
A view of Paro Valley, and the Paro River, from the National Museum of Bhutan.
As with temples, photography is strictly forbidden inside the museum. All bags and recording devices must be left in a locker at the front entrance.
Taktshang(Tiger’s Nest Monastery)
The iconic Tiger’s Nest Monastery is the most popular tourist sight in Bhutan.
The Tiger’s Nest Monastery is a small collection of buildings precariously perched on a cliff – 900 metres above the floor of Paro Valley at an altitude of 3,120 metres (10,240 ft).
It is stunning in its beauty and location and is the #1 tourist attraction in Bhutan, with almost every visitor making the trek up the mountain to visit this truly amazing sight.
The Tiger’s Nest Monastery is perched on the edge of a cliff, 900 metres above Paro Valley.
The temple was constructed in 1692, around the cave where Guru Rinpoche first meditated, the event that introduced Buddhism into Bhutan.
According to legend, Guru Rinpoche was carried from Tibet to this location on the back of a tigress, thus giving it the name “Tiger’s Nest.”
This prayer wheel marks the halfway mark of the hike up to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery.
The only way to reach the temple is by hiking up a trail which starts in a car park, which lies at an elevation of 2,600 metres (8,525 ft), which makes for an uphill hike of 520 metres (1,700 ft).
Taktsang Cafeteria serves Barista-made coffee and a buffet lunch.
The average hiking time up and down is 4 – 5 hours. While the trail is uphill the entire way, it’s not overly steep and there is an option to ride on ponies up to the Taktsang Cafeteria which lies at the halfway mark.
For the experience, I hired this pony to carry me up the first half of the hiking trail.
Almost everyone makes a stop at the cafe, which was completely renovated during the pandemic lockdown. The cafe is located directly below the temple complex and affords amazing views of the temple from its large outdoor terrace.
The view of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery from the terrace of the Taktsang Cafeteria..
Despite its remote location, the cafe includes a full kitchen which provides a buffet lunch, a fancy coffee machine from which you can purchase excellent barista-made coffee, drinks and meals.
Monks at the Tiger’s Nest Monastery.
While standing on the terrace of the cafe, you can ponder the trail ahead – which is less steep than the 1st half.
Since the pandemic, almost all of the colourful pray flags have been removed from the walking trail so it’s now not possible to get the iconic photo of the temple with pray flags overhead.
The Tiger’s Nest Monastery is the #1 tourist attraction in Bhutan.
Once at the Tiger’s Nest Monastery, my guide took me on a tour of the different buildings. As with all temples in Bhutan, photography is strictly forbidden and any recording devices must be left in a locker at a security checkpoint.
Hot Stone Bath
My hot stone bath, which was scalding hot.
One evening in Paro, I was treated to a truly unique experience – a hot stone bath, a form of traditional Bhutanese spa therapy where fresh river water is mixed with local Artemisia leaves and heated with fire-roasted river stones.
Hours before the bath, the stones are arranged in a pyramid over the red-hot charcoals of a fire. These are then placed into a container at one end of the bath and heat the water to about scalding point. The water was way too hot for me. I had to add an amount of cold water before I could comfortably sit in the bath.
My driver and guide, relaxing before their hot stone bath.
Artemisia, which is commonly known as wormwood or sweet sagewort, is used in traditional Chinese medicine for fevers, inflammation, headaches, bleeding, and even malaria.
Accommodation
Since most tourists are travelling on organised tours, hotels are pre-arranged by the tour company. During my week in Bhutan, I stayed in three very comfortable hotels.
Service in Bhutanese hotels is always of a high standard with staff going above and beyond to ensure your stay is a pleasant one.
Thimphu
My spacious room at the Osel Hotel in Thimphu.
While in Thimphu, I was accommodated in the wonderful Osel Hotel, a 4-star hotel which is located a short stroll from the downtown area.
The large, comfortable, spacious rooms offer panoramic views over the capital and of the surrounding mountains, including the large seated Buddha, BuddhaDordenma.
The walls of the hotel have been hand-painted by local artists and feature the usual Bhutanese themes.
The hotel restaurant offers buffet breakfast and an a-la-carte dinner service, all of which was included in the cost of my tour.
An excellent hotel in a central location, Osel Hotel serves as an ideal base for exploring Thimphu.
Punakha
My room at the Drubchhu Resort in Lobesa.
In Punakha, I stayed at the Drubchhu Resort which is located on the slope of a mountain in the village of Lobesa, overlooking Punakha valley.
At the time of my visit, the hotel had only just opened, following the 2.5-year closure of Bhutan due to the pandemic.
Meals included buffet breakfast and dinner with much of the produce coming from the hotel’s own vegetable garden. Water on the property is supplied by a local spring.
Paro
My deluxe room at the Metta Resort in Paro.
While in Paro, I stayed at the superb Metta Resort, which is located outside of Paro and offers deluxe, spacious rooms.
As with all other hotels, a buffet breakfast is included.
If you need to get washing done, I can recommend their very reasonably priced laundry service, which includes pressing!
Eating Out
Produce market in Paro.
Bhutanese cuisine is healthy and simple and is largely vegetarian. You will not find the usual fast-food outlets anywhere in the Kingdom. Restaurants serve home-style cooking and, due to the ‘no-kill’ policy, any meat which is served is imported from India.
The cuisine of Bhutan employs much rice, especially locally grown red rice (like brown rice in texture, but with a nutty taste) – the only variety of rice that grows at high altitudes.
The farmers’ market in Paro offers a selection of local and imported produce.
During my visit in October, a sea of golden rice fields covered most valleys. It was rice harvest time, and farmers were busy harvesting their valuable rice crop.
Another popular item in Bhutanese cuisine are handmade buckwheat noodles – healthy and delicious!
Rice Harvest
Rice fields ready for harvesting in the Punakha Valley.
After a year of patiently waiting, Bhutanese farmers finally get to harvest their rice crop in October.
Farmers, hand-thrashing rice against a large stone in the Punakha Valley.
Video:
Hand thrashing rice in Bhutan.
While Bhutan is mostly mountainous, small pockets of land, hidden away inside deep, narrow valleys are almost exclusively given over to the cultivation of rice and corn.
Of the land area of Bhutan, 75% of the country is under forest cover while just 3% is cultivated.
A farmer, machine-thrashing rice in the Punakha Valley.
Video:
Machine thrashing rice in Bhutan.
Rice can only be grown in the lower-altitude valleys of Bhutan with the valleys at Paro and Punakha almost exclusively devoted to the cultivation of rice.
This husband-and-wife team were working together to harvest their rice crop in the Punakha Valley.
Rice is indispensable in Bhutanese cuisine and more than 69% of the population is engaged in farming with rice and maize as the main crops.
Rice fields in the Punakha Valley.
Rice is the most widely consumed cereal in Bhutan, where the locals will tell you ‘Rice is life‘. For the Bhutanese, a meal without rice isn’t a meal!
Rice, ready to harvest in the Punakha Valley.
Domestic rice production meets only about 50% of the total demand, with the deficit made up of rice imports from neighbouring India.
Large stacks of rice stalks indicate those fields which have already been harvested.
I arrived in Bhutan at the start of the rice harvest season, when the valleys were covered by a sea of golden rice fields. A truly dazzling sight!
Rice paddies in Punakha Valley.
Kingdom of Peppers
Chillies, drying on a rooftop in Thimphu.
Bhutan is the Kingdom of peppers with chillies forming an integral part of Bhutanese cuisine. This is a country where chillies aren’t just a seasoning but the main ingredient.
Chillies are served in almost all meals. The Bhutanese will also often ask for a side plate of raw chillies, just to add a little extra spice to their meal.
Everywhere you travel in Bhutan, you’ll see carpets of red chillies drying on the roofs of houses.
On average, a Bhutanese household consumes more than 1 kilo of chilli in a week.
One of the most popular dishes in Bhutan is ‘Ema Datshi‘ a simple, tasty and fiery dish which is made of chillies and yaks’ cheese.
Potatoes Galore
Due to its high altitude, Bhutan is able to grow a variety of crops which cannot be grown on the sweltering tropical plains of neighbouring India.
One such crop, potatoes, are a key export item for Bhutan. As we travelled on the highways of Bhutan, we constantly passed trucks which were laden with potatoes, all destined for India.
The average annual export of Bhutanese potatoes, to India, is around 20,000MT.
Restaurants
As with accommodation, all meals are provided by your tour company who normally reserve restaurants in advance.
Writing this section of my guide has me now salivating as I remember the amazing tastes and flavours of Bhutanese cuisine. It’s a shame the world isn’t full of Bhutanese restaurants. Such a healthy cuisine.
Thimphu
Lunchtime at the Babesa restaurant in Thimphu, with my guide, Jamyang (left) and driver, Thukten.
During my first day of sightseeing in Thimphu, I was taken to lunch at the very rustic Babesa Village Restaurant.
Interior of the rustic Babesa Village Restaurant in Thimphu.
The restaurant, which serves homely Bhutanese cuisine, is located inside an old heritage home which is around 600 years old.
Jamyang, adding toasted rice to my yak-butter tea at Babesa restaurant in Thimphu.
Before we ate, we were served a cup of traditional yak-butter tea. The Bhutanese make their yak tea a little more interesting with the addition of toasted rice grains.
Meals in Bhutan are always served communal-style, on a low table, with seating on the floor.
Seating is on the floor, which is typical in Bhutan, with meals served, communal style, on a low table.
My lunch at the Babesa restaurant included a selection of classic Bhutanese dishes.
Most of the dishes were vegetarian with a couple of meat dishes. The flavours and freshness of the dishes had me digging in for 2nds and 3rds. Delicious!
I always enjoyed the vegetarian dishes in Bhutan while the meat dishes, which use imported meat from India, were often tough and chewy. I learnt quickly to focus on the vegetarian options.
Punakha
My lunch, which was packing lots of chilies, at the Chimi Lhakhang Organic Cafe in Lobesa.
Perched on a hill, overlooking the rice fields of Punakha valley, the excellent Chimi Lhakhang Organic Cafe is a popular lunch restaurant. On the day we visited, the restaurant was busy serving numerous tour groups.
Like most other restaurants in Bhutan, meals tend to be tasty vegetarian options which are made from local produce and served with lots of rice and chilies.
After lunch, I walked with my guide through the rice fields, where we were able to observe farmers harvesting their rice crops.
Paro
The owners of Pema Wangchuk Farmhouse in Paro, who prepared the most amazing meal using produce from their farm.
One evening in Paro, I was led by my guide and driver along a dark country lane to a farmhouse which was our dinner venue.
The Pema Wangchuk Farmhouse is a typical Bhutanese farmhouse.
The Pema Wangchuk Farmhouse is owned by a young, energetic, couple who grow their own produce which they serve to appreciative visitors in the form of tasty homecooked meals. Truly divine!
Our divine Bhutanese dinner which was served at the Pema Wangchuk Farmhouse.
The meals prepared included a range of delicious Bhutanese classic vegetarian dishes, including the most amazing homemade buckwheat noodles.
My dinner at the Pema Wangchuk Farmhouse, which included a delicious pumpkin and ginger soup.
After dinner, we were treated to a shot of homemade ara, a traditional alcoholic beverage which is popular in Bhutan and is normally made from fermented rice. A Himalayan version of saké, it was surprisingly smooth.
Cafes
The Mountain Cafe and Roastery in Paro, which serves excellent coffee.
A couple of decent cafes can be found in Thimphu and Paro, all of which serve very good, barista-made, coffee.
With the only coffee roasting machine in Bhutan, the Mountain Cafe and Roastery in Paro serves the freshest and best coffee in the Bhutan.
This is the only cafe in Bhutan with a coffee roaster and, as a result, they serve the best tasting coffee in the entire Kingdom.
A divine coffee, and freshly made cheesecake, at the Mountain Cafe and Roastery in Paro.
Along with their amazing coffee, they offer freshly baked cakes, cookies and meals.
Thimphu
Located in Thimphu, Smilers Cafe offers very good coffee and delicious international style cooking.
Located in downtown Thimphu, the wonderful coffee at Smilers Café left me smiling all day. Apart from great coffee, this funky cafe offers international-style cooking and homemade cakes.
In the evening the cafe serves as a live music venue.
Bars
The very smooth Bhutanese Wheat beer is brewed by the Namgay Artisanal Brewery in Paro.
If you are looking for a roaring pub scene, Bhutan is not your country.
There are a couple of bars/ lounges in Thimphu and alcohol can be purchased at hotels and supermarkets. There are a number of breweries in Bhutan which produce very tasty beer.
Visa Requirements
My Bhutanese visa.
Visas are required by all foreigners, and must are obtained, in advance, by your tour company.
You will need to show your visa before you board your flight to Bhutan. Without a valid visa, which will only be valid for the dates of your tour, you will be denied boarding.
The current (2022) visa fee is US$40.
My Bhutanese passport stamps.
Nationals from the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation (SAARC) countries – i.e. India, Bangladesh and Maldives – do not require a visa, but must obtain a permit before visiting Bhutan.
Located in a narrow valley, Paro International Airport is ranked as one of the most dangerous airports in the world.
Paro International Airport is the only international airport in Bhutan and, due to its location in a narrow valley, surrounded by towering peaks, is ranked as one of the most dangerous airports in the world.
A view of the terminal at Paro International Airport, with a mural featuring the King and Queen of Bhutan and their son., Prince Jigme Namgyel Wangchuck.
Due to the mountainous topography of Bhutan, the only place suitable for constructing a runway, of considerable length, was in Paro Valley.
The narrow valley is located at 2,235 metres (7,333 ft) above sea level and is surrounded on all sides by mountains which soar as high as 4,900 metres (16,100 ft).
A Druk Air flight, on final approach to Paro International Airport, flying over Paro Valley.
On our final approach to Paro Airport, the landing gear was lowered and the pilots started manoeuvring the plane while we were still flying over the summits of the peaks which surround Paro airport. At the end of the valley, the plane performed a sharp right-hand turn to line up with the runway.
On final approach, there is one small hill which needs to be cleared before the pilots can descend to the 2,000 metre (6,000 ft) long runway.
Ready to board my Druk Air flight back to Singapore.
Due to the difficulties, landings can only take place during daylight hours and can only be made by specially trained pilots. The only airlines flying to Bhutan are the two national carriers – Bhutan Airlines and Drukair.
Due to the landing restrictions, the weekly Druk Air flight to Singapore arrives in Singapore on Saturday afternoon and must overnight at the airport, with the return flight departing Changi Airport on Sunday. This is to avoid any night time landings.
Video:
A video by Youtuber Sam Chui shows the difficulty of landing at Paro Airport.
Bhutan Airlines is owned by the Tashi Group of Companies, which is the largest privately owned conglomerate in Bhutan. It operates a fleet of two Airbus A319-100.
Drukair operates a fleet of five planes, being three Airbus A319-100, one Airbus A320neo and one ATR 42-600 which is used for its domestic services.
Artwork, inside the arrival’s hall at Paro International Airport.
The following scheduled flights operate to/ from Paro International Airport:
Bhutan Airlines – flies to/ from Bangkok–Suvarnabhumi, Delhi, Kathmandu, Kolkata
Airport transfers are organised by your tour company who will be waiting for you outside the arrival’s hall.
Land
The border between Bhutan and India is the only land access into Bhutan. The one other land border, shared with China, is completely closed and lies on the other side of the impenetrable barrier which is the Himalayas. An advantage for tiny Bhutan!
The only land crossing point for foreign nationals, and the main crossing for Indian nationals, is between the towns of Jaigaon, in the Indian state of West Bengal and Phuntsholing, in South West Bhutan.
Additionally, Indian passport holders can enter Bhutan through three other land borders – Gelephu, Samdrup Jongkhar and Samtse.
Getting Around
On every main road in Bhutan, road signs reinforce road safety.
All transport in Bhutan is provided by your tour company. Public transport is available for locals in the form of buses and shared taxis.
Public Transport
Public buses connect the various towns of Bhutan.
Taxi
Taxis operate within towns, with shared taxis providing transport services between towns.
Rental Car
A Bhutanese car license plate.
If you’re on an organised tour, you will not need to rent a car.
If you do need a rental car, there are various agents in Paro and Thimphu.
That’s the end of my travel guide for Bhutan.
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