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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 212 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
Svalbard is as close as most mere mortals can get to the North Pole, without embarking on an expedition.
A polar bear warning sign outside of Longyearbyen. “Gjelder hele Svalbard” means that the warning applies to all of Svalbard.
A truly magical and surreal archipelago, whose landscapes include pointy, snow-covered peaks and huge glaciers which calve into the sea, Svalbard is home to more polar bears (~20,000) than people.
Dramatic scenery is a constant in this part of the world.
Outside of the settlements, you (or a guide) are required to carry a loaded rifle as protection against polar bear attack.
A view of the mighty Esmark glacier.
One of the world’s northernmost inhabited areas, the main settlement of Longyearbyen lies at latitude 78˚ North – just 1,316 km (817 mi) south of the North Pole.
A beach cabin provides a sense of scale to the monumental scenery on Svalbard.
Svalbard is one of Europe’s last great wildernesses, and the many highlights of the archipelago are to be found along the shores of the remote and uninhabited fjords – the world’s northernmost fjords!
A trip to the abandoned Soviet mining town of Pyramiden is a highlight of Svalbard.
Svalbard’s main settlement, and entry point, is tiny Longyearbyen (pop: 2,368), which is home to a young, transient population of 53 different nationalities.
A view of the Norwegian town of Longyearbyen, the largest settlement on Svalbard.
Svalbard has a unique immigration policy which allows anyone with a work contract to settle and live on the island, regardless of nationality, without requiring any sort of visa!
This attracts a large number of seasonal Asian workers, especially hard-working Filipinos, many of whom have learnt to speak some Norwegian. See the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section below for more on this.
Typical scenery on the Isfjorden, Svalbard.
Travel costs on Svalbard are very high, with a daily budget likely to be in the region of €400 – 500 if you are staying in a decent hotel and participating in a boat trip on the fjord.
The world’s northernmost Fjord, the Billefjorden, is lined by an uninterrupted range of towering mountain peaks.
Svalbard would be a challenging destination for budget travellers! The main target tourist market is established, well-monied travellers who are prepared to pay €200 for a daytrip on a boat (please refer to the ‘Cost‘ section for more details).
Getting up close to a walrus colony is one of many amazing activities on Svalbard.
One of the highlights of my trip was a 7-hour Walrus safari which was operated by the excellent team from Better Moments. The trip involved 6 hours on a speedboat and one hour on the beach with the walrus colony.
The cost of this trip was an eye-watering NOK2,390 (€231) – but it did include a ham sandwich for lunch!
Despite the cost, it was well worth the money and I would recommend it to anyone visiting Svalbard. It would be a shame to come this far and baulk at doing something unique like the walrus safari because of financial considerations.
The abandoned staff cafeteria in the former Russian coal mining town of Pyramiden, a remote ghost town which is now an intriguing tourist attraction.
Svalbard is also home to two Russian coal mining towns, Barentsburg and the, now-abandoned, Pyramiden, both of which are popular daytrips from Longyearbyen.
Mountain peaks surround the settlement of Longyearbyen.
In this Svalbard Travel Guide, I provide a detailed overview of sights, accommodation and restaurant options along with information on getting to the archipelago and getting around.
Community noticeboard, frozen in time, in the former Soviet mining town of Pyramiden.
Location
Longyearbyen 9170, Svalbard and Jan Mayen
Svalbard, also known as Spitsbergen, is a Norwegian archipelago located between mainland Norway and the North Pole. Longyearbyen lies 2,000 km north of Oslo and 836 km north of Nordkapp (the northern most point in Norway).
Due to its extreme northerly position, Svalbard experiences 2.5 months of complete darkness – the “Polar Night” – from mid-November to late January.
During the summer, the “Midnight Sun” is omnipresent (somewhere above the cloud), lasting from late April to late August.
History
Due to its many pointy peaks, Svalbard was originally named ‘Spitsbergen’ by the Dutch explorer Willem Barentsz.
Svalbard, which translates from Old Norse as “Cold Coast”, was originally discovered by Dutch explorers Willem Barents and Jacob van Heemskerck in June 1596.
They named the archipelago Spitsbergen, meaning “pointed mountains”, due to the many pointed mountain peaks which line the coast.
One of two inhabited settlements on Svalbard, the Russian mining town of Barentsburg is named after the Dutch explorer, Willem Barents.
At the time of their arrival, they reported that so great was the number of whales, that navigating between them was difficult.
With the word out, Dutch and English whalers arrived as early as 1611, followed by French, Hanseatic, Danish, and Norwegian whalers, all of whom started arguing over whaling rights and the division of territory.
Eventually, by the time the arguments had settled, they had slaughtered almost all of the whales!
Remains of a coal mine cable-way in Longyearbyen.
With the decline of whaling by 1800, the islands’ importance centred on the presence of coal. The coal deposits on Svalbard date back millions of years, to a time when the archipelago was located in the tropics and was covered with lush vegetation. The deposits are close to the surface which is attractive for mining companies.
Not until the beginning of the 20th century were the deposits surveyed and mineral rights claimed by American, British, Norwegian, Swedish, Dutch, and Russian companies and individuals.
A simple memorial to John Munroe Longyear among the ruins of the old town of Longyearbyen.
One American to arrive on the island was businessman and mining pioneer John Munroe Longyear, who first visited Svalbard on a cruise in 1901, and became interested in developing a coal mining operation.
In 1906, he established the Arctic Coal Company which developed several mines and the associated infrastructure. He named his settlement Longyear City.
In 1916, the Norwegian company, Store NorskeSpitsbergen Kullkompani, took over the mining operations from Longyear’s Arctic Coal Company, and the settlement was renamed Longyearbyen (“Longyear City” in Norwegian).
Svalbard Treaty
The Svalbard Treaty was signed on 9 February 1920 and entered into force on 14 August 1925. The treaty granted possession of the archipelago to Norway and mineral rights, on an equal basis, to various European and other countries.
The abandoned Russian coal mining town of Pyramiden is today a popular tourist attraction.
Only Russia and Norway continue to extract and export coal from mines on the islands, with one mine each operating in Longyearbyen and Barentsburg.
The main economic activity on Svalbard today is tourism.
People
Svalbard has never been home to a native population, unlike neighbouring Greenland which was originally settled by the native Inuit.
Anyone living on Svalbard has arrived from somewhere else.
With a population of 2,368 – Longyearbyen is a cosmopolitan Arctic village whose residents come from no less than 53 different countries.
Unlike everywhere else in Europe, there is no social security on Svalbard which ensures that anyone who is resident is fully self-sufficient and employed.
Limited medical facilities ensure that anyone requiring medical attention, such as the elderly, cannot live on the archipelago.
Due to these conditions, the population of Longyearbyen is generally young, fit, healthy and fully employed. The average age is a relatively young, 30 years, with the bulk of the population being transient, remaining for a few years on short-term work assignments.
Many of the work contracts cover the short summer tourism season, with workers staying on the archipelago for less than 6 months.
Foundation supports, from one of the original buildings in Longyearbyen, have been tilted by the movement of the underlying permafrost.
There are also two important restrictions which apply to the human population on Svalbard:
No one can be born on Svalbard.
No one can be buried on Svalbard.
Due to the limited medical facilities in Longyearbyen, anyone who is pregnant must relocate to Norway, normally Tromsø, for the final term of their pregnancy.
The underlying permafrost is visible in this gully outside of Longyearbyen,
No one can be buried on Svalbard for two good reasons:
Due to the seasonal movement of the earth caused by the thawing and then re-freezing of the underlying permafrost, no one can be buried on Svalbard, lest their body starts re-emerging from the frozen ground at some stage in the future.
Bodies simply won’t decompose in the frozen ground.
A view of the Russian mining town of Barentsburg, the 2nd largest settlement on Svalbard.
The one other settlement on Svalbard is the Russian mining town of Barentsburg, which is located 40 km (about 1 hour by boat) to the south-west of Longyearbyen. This very quiet town is home to a population of 455 souls from Russia and Ukraine.
Facilities in Barentsburg are limited with residents using Longyearbyen for most services, including the airport.
The currency of Svalbard is the Norwegian krone (currency code: NOK), whose name translates into English as “crown”. The currency is issued in notes of 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 krone.
The krone (plural: kroner) is used throughout Svalbard, including in the Russian settlement of Barentsburg.
Credit Cards
If you came to Svalbard without cash, that would not be a problem since every business accepts payment with credit cards. If you prefer to use cash, there is an ATM available in Longyearbyen.
Exchange Rates
Click on the links to view the current exchange rate of 100 NOK against the Euro and US dollar:
The famous polar bear roadside warning sign is featured on a Svalbard stamp.
Postal services on Svalbard, including in the Russian town of Barentsburg, are provided by Norwegian Post, which issues a separate set of Svalbard stamps. The one post office in Longyearbyen is located on the main street.
Located at 78° North, Longyearbyen PO is the world’s northernmost post office.
Svalbard Postmarks
The post office in Longyearbyen also uses unique postmark stamps, featuring a polar bear and reindeer.
The polar bear and reindeer postmarks, which are used at Longyearbyen PO.
When I first saw these postmarks, I commented to the post office staff that these would make ideal souvenir passport stamps, since no immigration stamp exists for Svalbard.
I was told that the post office has been instructed by the government not to stamp passports with these postmarks.
Barentsburg Post Office
The post office in Barentsburg, which is operated by Norwegian Post, is a great place for souvenir shopping.
Located on the main street in Barentsburg, the local post office in this Russian town is operated by Norwegian Post since Svalbard is a territory of Norway.
The post office sells a variety of souvenirs.
Costs
Spectacular day trips on the world’s northernmost fjord are the main activity for most tourists on Svalbard.
Horrendous!
Svalbard is not a destination for anyone on a budget.
For most people, Svalbard will be a one-time travel experience. It’s best to come with enough funds to enjoy the many amazing experiences which await in this unique Arctic playground and not to be too focused on just how much everything is costing you!
Due to the high travel costs, it’s best to bite the budget bullet, do what you wish to do, then leave before your travel budget disappears entirely.
Svalbard would be a miserable travel experience for anyone pinching their pennies!
An example of typical daily costs:
Hotel room at Radisson BLU Polar hotel (includes breakfast): €230
Full day trip to Pyramiden with Henningsen Transport & Guiding (includes lunch): €184
Dinner at Stationen Restaurant (Steak meal with one local beer): €42
Total for one day = €456
Suggested daily budgets:
Budget: Not possible!
Mid-range: NOK 4,000 – 4,648 (€380 – 450)
Top-end: NOK4,648+ (€450+)
The ‘Circle K’ petrol station in Longyearbyen is the world’s northernmost petrol station, where a litre of fuel costs NOK14.70 (€1.42).
Sample costs:
Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): NOK35 (€3.38)
Water (0.5 litre bottle): NOK24 (€2.33)
Svalbardi Polar Iceberg Water (750ml bottle): NOK982 (€94.95) ** Possibly the most expensive bottle of water in the world! **
The main street of Longyearbyen is home to a selection of boutiques which sell a range of Arctic merchandise.
While other costs are high on Svalbard, shopping can be a bargain! Svalbard is a duty-free zone so lower tax-free prices apply for everything you buy.
Funky local artwork for sale in Longyearbyen.
You will find bargain prices on outdoor clothing and equipment at Longyearbyen’s sporting goods stores, while the price of alcohol and tobacco are considerably lower than on the Norwegian mainland.
Located on the main pedestrian mall in Longyearbyen, the Coop supermarket is a great place to find bargain souvenirs.
If you are interested in purchasing souvenirs, the local supermarket, Coop, has a great range of items at very reasonable rates. This is also the only supermarket in town!
Items for sale in the gift shop at Pyramiden.
Shopping opportunities exist in Longyearbyen and in the Russian towns of Barentsburg and Pyramiden, where you’ll find at least one or two shops selling souvenirs.
Svalbard Wildlife
Introducing a gallery of Svalbard wildlife!
Unfortunately, the elusive polar bear proved to be too elusive during my stay on Svalbard, and so sadly, was never photographed by me!
Click on images for the full gallery-view.
Arctic Cruises
Cruise ships in Longyearbyen harbour.
Most visitors to Svalbard are cruise ship passengers who overnight in Longyearbyen before and after an Arctic cruise. The cruising season runs from late-April through late-September.
During the 2019 summer season, ~300 cruise ships visited Svalbard, carrying around 20,000 tourists.
Being the only settlement with services in this part of the world, Longyearbyen is a hub for all cruise ship companies. Most passengers arrive in town on special charter flights, which saves the (limited) regularly scheduled flights from being inundated!
A cruise ship is dwarfed by the towering mountains of Svalbard.
The summer cruise season of 2022 was the first time that Svalbard had been open since the summer of 2019, due to the Covid-19 pandemic.
Rather than cancelling cruises in 2020 and 2021, and refunding money back to passengers – which would have resulted in companies becoming bankrupt – the cruise ship companies rescheduled everyone for the 2022 season.
This meant that three years’ worth of passengers were being pushed through the system in one year! This resulted in a huge amount of congestion in tiny Longyearbyen, where, on one day, 8 cruise ships were in port, which overwhelmed the town of 2,400 inhabitants.
With a passenger capacity of 2,500, TUI Cruises’ “MV Mein Schiff” doubled the population of Longyearbyen during its one-day stopover.
On another day, TUI cruises arrived in town, with their mega-ship, ‘MV Mein Schiff 4’ whose passenger capacity matched the population of Longyearbyen, resulting in a doubling of the town’s population.
Having been closed for 3 years, local tour operators, and businesses, were happy to have the cruise ship passengers back in town – even if town was crowded!
A typical 10-day Arctic cruise costs around US$10,000. You can view a selection of cruises on the Swoop Arctic website.
Sightseeing
Tip: For a full list of activities on Svalbard, you should refer to the Things To Do page on the Visit Svalbard website.
You can also make bookings directly from this page.
Longyearbyen
The main town on Svalbard, Longyearbyen (population: 2,368) has the distinction of being the world’s northernmost town, located at 78˚ North – 1,316 km (817 mi) south of the North Pole, and well above the Arctic circle, which is located at 66°30′ North.
While there are two museums and a few other sights in town, Longyearbyen mainly serves as a base for full-day boat trips, exploring the many spectacular sights which are located along the shores of the fjords.
Svalbard Museum
The engaging Svalbard Museum displays artefacts from the history of Svalbard since its settlement along with fauna and flora displays.
A good first stop for any new arrival in town, the Svalbard Museum includes displays on the local fauna and flora of the archipelago, including an impressive (stuffed) polar bear.
Apart from being a natural history museum, Svalbard Museum is a cultural museum and includes displays which tell the story of settlement on the archipelago.
At the time of my visit, there was a special exhibition on permafrost – which affects much in this part of the world.
North Pole Expedition Museum
The North Pole Expedition Museum tells the story of early attempts to reach the North Pole.
Located directly behind the Svalbard Museum, the North Pole Expedition Museum tells the story of man’s early attempts to reach the North Pole, especially using airships and other types of aerial craft.
Displays inside the North Pole Expedition Museum, one of two museums in Longyearbyen.
The museum displays, which cover two floors, includes relics from expedition ships and air ships, old newspapers, maps and more.
Svalbard Church
Svalbard church was receiving a new roof at the time of my visit.
Located in an area of town which was the sight of the original settlement, the very cute Svalbard Kirke (church) is a warm and inviting place whose door is always open.
On the subject of open doors – it is standard practice on Svalbard that all doors to buildings remain unlocked, in case it is necessary for someone to hide from a wandering polar bear.
The altar inside Svalbard church.
The red, wooden church was built in 1958 using plans drawn up by the architect Hans Magnus. The church seats about 140 people and includes a stuffed polar bear (of course!)
Like everything else on Svalbard, the church has the distinction of being the northernmost church in the world and is one of two churches on Svalbard, with the other being a Russian Orthodox chapel in Barentsburg.
Svalbard Global Seed Vault
The Svalbard Global Seed Vault is also known as the Doomsday Vault.
Located outside of Longyearbyen, high on a mountain, overlooking the airport, the Svalbard Global Seed Vault is essentially a huge safety-deposit box for seeds.
Like something from a James Bond film, the entrance of this remote facility is a rectangular wedge of concrete which juts out from the side of a mountain.
The door to the vault is always closed and visitors are not allowed, lest someone introduces any sort of bacteria which would contaminate the valuable seed collection.
Beyond the entrance, a 150-metre-long passage leads to 3 chambers, with just one chamber currently used to house seeds.
Alone in isolation at the top of the world – the Svalbard Global Seed Vault is essentially a huge safety-deposit box for seeds.
The Global Seed Vault, which has been dubbed the “doomsday” vault, stores seeds from around the world – seeds which account for more than 930,000 varieties of food crops.
In 2008, Time Magazine named the Global Seed Vault as one of the ‘best inventions of 2008‘.
Husky Kennels
Common Eider ducks nesting alongside the noisy Husky kennels.
Located a short walk outside of town, the very noisy husky dog kennels are used to house these working dogs which are vitally important for sledding activities during the long, cold winters.
A female Common Eider duck, sitting on her comfortable nest which is made from Eider-down feathers!
All of the noisy racket from the constant barking and howling of the dogs, makes this a fox-free zone, which in turn makes this an ideal nesting site for the Common Eider duck.
A female (foreground) and male pair of Common Eider ducks in Longyearbyen.
The Arctic fox is one of the main predators of the ducks, which are most vulnerable while they are nesting. A large duck, the common eider duck is usually easily recognized by its size, the black belly and the white back of the male.
Previously, the excellent insulating down was collected from the nests of eider ducks for clothing or blankets.
Walrus Safari Daytrip
One of the best-known walrus colonies close to Longyearbyen is on Poolepynten on Prince Karl’s Fordland.
One of the highlights of my trip to Svalbard was being able to get up close to a colony of sunbathing walruses.
The walrus colony at Poolepynten on Prince Karl’s Fordland is located 87 km northwest of Longyearbyen, a 3-hour ride by speedboat.
During the winter months, walruses spend their time on sea ice. During summer, when the sea ice melts, walruses congregate on beaches such as at Poolepynten on Prince Karl’s Fordland, which is 87 km northwest of Longyearbyen.
Found only in the Arctic, there are two species of walrus – the Pacific and Atlantic walrus, with the Atlantic walrus found on Svalbard.
Both males and females grow tusks which they use to haul themselves out of the water and onto the sea ice. Their tusks are also used for keeping breathing holes open in the ice, fighting with other walruses, and for defence against predators.
Walruses use their sensitive whiskers for feeling out mussels and other sea creatures in the dark, Arctic waters.
Due to its great size and tusks, the walrus has only two natural predators: the orca and the polar bear.
Despite having no trees, the beaches of Svalbard, such as Poolepynten, are littered with ancient logs which have been carried to the Archipelago on ocean currents.
The walrus does not, however, comprise a significant component of either of these predators’ diets. Polar bears are more partial to seals!
Our Walrus Safari guide, with his loaded rifle, always on the lookout for polar bears.
I travelled on a Walrus Safari with Better Moments who charge NOK2,390 (€231) for the 7-hour trip. This included a lunch, which was a ham sandwich!
A ‘wet landing’ by dinghy at the very remote Poolepynten beach, with our speed boat in the background.
The safari involved a 6-hour return speedboat trip and one hour on the beach. As there is a risk of polar bear attack, our guide was required to carry a loaded rifle.
The scenery on Prince Karl’s Fordland.
Barentsburg & Esmark Glacier Daytrip
Travel Tip
For anything related to tourism in the Russian towns of Barentsburg and Pyramiden, you should consult with Grumant Arctic Travel Company.
Disclosure: At a time when Russia is waging an illegal invasion of Ukraine, it is incumbent upon me to disclose that the Grumant Arctic Travel company is a division of the Arktikugol (Arctic Coal) mining company, which is owned by the Russian government.
Trips to Barentsburg and Pyramiden from Longyearbyen use Norwegian companies.
A daytrip to Barentsburg always includes a stop at the impressive Esmark glacier which lies on the opposite side of the fjord from the Russian mining town.
Daytrips to Barentsburg include a stop at the Esmark glacier.
I travelled on a daytrip with Polar Charter aboard the MV Polar Girl who charge NOK1,950 (€188) for the 10-hour trip. This included a bowl of soup for lunch and a guided tour of Barentsburg.
The ‘MV Polar Girl’ offers day-trips to Barentsburg and Pyramiden.
Esmark Glacier
Two zodiac boats are dwarfed by the front of the Esmark glacier, which is 15 km wide.
The first of two stops on the daytrip was at the impressive Esmark glacier which calves into Ymerbukta bay, on the northern side of Isfjorden.
Two zodiac boats provide a sense of scale for the huge Esmark glacier, one of hundreds of glaciers on the archipelago.
The last remains of winter fast ice in front of the glacier were slowly melting.
Our boat, breaking through the last of the winter “fast ice”, the preferred habitats for seals, on approach to the huge Esmark glacier.
As we approached the glacier, our boat broke through the last of the fragile winter “fast ice”.
Fast ice is the preferred habitat for seals who escape the threat of polar bears by resting on the ice rather than on land.
Polar bear tracks, on the fast ice, in front of the Esmark glacier.
As a magnet for seals, the fast ice is also the preferred hunting ground for polar bears, whose favourite meal is seal. While we saw polar bear tracks on the ice, the tracks were not fresh and we saw no sign of polar bears.
View from the MS Polar Girl as we cross the Isfjorden en-route to Barentsburg.
Barentsburg
A bust of Lenin looks out over Barentsburg.
Located 60 km west of Longyearbyen, in Grønfjorden (Green Fjord), a small fjord to the west of the larger Isfjorden, the quirky Russian mining town of Barentsburg is home to a population of 455 souls who are both Russians and Ukrainians.
Traditional wooden buildings in Barentsburg.
Barentsburg was first established by a Dutch company in 1920, who named the settlement in honour of the famous Dutch explorer Willem Barentsz.
The one school building in Barentsburg features artwork which adds a splash of colour to this Arctic mining town.
In 1932, Barentsburg was sold to the Soviet state-owned company Arktikugol, and ever since the fall of the Soviet Union the community has been maintained by the Russian state-owned company Trust Arktikugol.
Apart from running the mining operation, the company owns the Grumant Arctic Travel Company.If you wish to stay overnight in Barentsburg, the travel company operates one hotel and one hostel (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below for more details).
Artwork adorns the side of the abandoned workers’ cafeteria building in Barentsburg.
The currency in use in Barentsburg is the Norwegian krone (NOK) with credit cards accepted by most businesses.
The port authority building in Barentsburg.
During WWII, the Germans destroyed almost all buildings in Barentsburg which makes the current town relatively new.
Sleepy Barentsburg is a living museum of a Soviet-era mining town, complete with many fine Pomor-style wooden buildings.
Barentsburg is a living museum, full of relics from its Soviet past, including many fine Pomor-style wooden houses.
During our visit we had a one-hour guided tour around town, then time to ourselves to explore.
The logo of the Arktikugol company which operates the town of Barentsburg.
The town has its own coal-powered power plant, hospital, hotel, hostel, brewery, two bars, school, kindergarten, cultural and sports-facilities, one supermarket and one Lenin bust.
The former Soviet consulate was built in the classic Stalinist style while the new Russian consulate looms in the background.
Although this is a Russian mining town, Svalbard is a territory of Norway and, as such, the Russian government is represented in Barentsburg through a consulate.
The former consulate, which was built during the Soviet era in the classic Stalinist style, is now a museum while a modern Russian consulate, built directly behind the former consulate, overlooks the whole of the settlement from its hilltop position.
One of four apartment buildings in Barentsburg.
Compared to Longyearbyen, Barentsburg is very quiet and sleepy. There are few cars, few businesses, few shops and a general lack of buzz and activity. It’s all very quiet!
A Soviet-era sign outside a modern apartment building in Barentsburg proclaims “Communism is our goal”.
I saw very few people walking around the few streets which comprise the downtown area. It’s in complete contrast to the more bustling Longyearbyen!
The Russian orthodox chapel in Barentsburg is the world’s northernmost Orthodox chapel.
One sight worth visiting is the wooden Russian Orthodox chapel, the world’s northernmost Orthodox chapel.
The interior of the Russian Orthodox chapel in Barentsburg.
It was erected in honour the victims of an air disaster which occurred in 1996 when a Tupolev plane carrying 141 miners from the Arktikugol company, crashed into a mountain on approach to Longyearbyen airport. It was this event which led to the closure of Pyramiden.
Grumant
Abandoned buildings in the Russian settlement of Grumant.
Located on the southern shore Isfjorden, the Russian mining town of Grumant was first established in 1912 and then abandoned in 1965.
At its peak, it was home to 1,106 coal miners. Due to a lack of port facilities, coal had to be transported to nearby Coles Bay via a rail line. It all proved too difficult and costly and the settlement was eventually abandoned in 1965.
Abandoned buildings at the former Russian mining settlement of Grumant.
Pyramiden & Nordenskiöld Glacier Daytrip
The abandoned Russian mining town of Pyramiden lies 50 km north of Longyearbyen.
A highlight of Svalbard, Pyramiden is an abandoned Soviet coal mining settlement, which is located at the foot of the Billefjorden, near to the massive Nordenskiöld Glacier.
Minerals colour the soil of a mountain slope on the Billefjorden.
Several companies run daily trips from Longyearbyen which include scenic views of the Billefjorden, a trip to the Nordenskiöld Glacier and a guided tour of Pyramiden.
I chose to travel with Henningsen Transport & Guiding (HTG) who offer the 11-hour trip for NOK1,900 (€184), which includes a BBQ lunch, prepared by the excellent and friendly Filipino crew.
The dramatic coastline of the Billefjorden, as seen from the deck of the “MV Billefjorden”.
I was glad I chose HTG as our informative, enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide, Anna Lena Ekeblad,a Swedish expat who has lived in Svalbard since the mid-1990’s (making her one of the longest residents of Longyearbyen), shared her deep knowledge of the Arctic.
Was it any wonder that Willem Barentsz first named Svalbard “Spitsbergen”?
We were served one antidote after another and, without a doubt, the trip with HTG was the best of all the trips I made while in Longyearbyen. Highly recommended, especially if Anna Lena is your guide!
Billefjorden
The shore of the Billefjorden is lined with towering peaks which stand sentinel over the coastline.
Our boat, the “MV Billefjorden” carried us north for 50 km from Longyearbyen to Pyramiden, along the spectacular Billefjorden, the world’s northernmost fjord.
Typical view of the shoreline of the Billefjorden.
Billefjorden is the central fjord of the three branching from the innermost part of the Isfjorden. It is 30 km long and 5–8 km wide and is lined with spectacular cliffs, glaciers and mountain peaks which are breeding grounds for large colonies of Arctic sea birds.
Nordenskiöld Glacier
Approaching the Nordenskiöld Glacier, the first time in the season that a boat could approach the glacier.
One of more than 100 glaciers on Svalbard, the massive Nordenskiöldbreen (Nordenskiöld Glacier) is 25 km (16 mi) long and 11 km (6.8 mi) wide. It calves into Adolfsbukta, a branch of Billefjorden.
Unfortunately, there is nothing in this image to provide scale to the immense size of the Nordenskiöld Glacier.
At certain times of the year, sea ice prevents boats from reaching the face of this huge glacier. We were the first boat trip which was able to reach the glacier – that was in June.
A pair of Bearded seals, resting on sea ice at Nordenskiöld Glacier.
While there were no polar bears present, there were a few bearded seals resting on blocks of sea ice. The seals wait for larger blocks of ice to calve off the glacier then take up residence on them, while always keeping an eye out for their number one predator – the polar bear.
A hole in the ice, roughly in the shape of a heart, makes the Nordenskiöld Glacier the ‘heart of the Arctic’.
One feature of the glacier is a hole in the ice which is shaped roughly like a heart – making this glacier the ‘heart of the Arctic’.
Pyramiden
A bust of Lenin looks out over Pyramiden.
Located across the bay from the massive Nordenskiöld Glacier, the abandoned Russian coal mining town of Pyramiden looms large on the horizon.
The abandoned Russian coal mining town of Pyramiden is today a popular tourist attraction.
As you approach, you can clearly make out the many buildings, crane derricks at the port, mining infrastructure and a strange contraption which ramps its way up the steep mountain slope behind the town.
A covered gallery, which once housed a cable car, carried miners to the mine entrance, located below the mountain summit.
Everything is here, except for the residents!
An old tractor at Pyramiden.
Founded by Sweden in 1910 and sold to the Soviet Union in 1927, Pyramiden is named for the two pyramid-shaped mountains which form the backdrop of the town.
This large shed was used to keep livestock which was used to provide fresh meat, poultry and milk for the town.
During the 1980s the town had a population in excess of 1000 people. A large livestock shed was used as a ‘farm’ to provide fresh meat, poultry, eggs and milk for the town – something unique in this part of the world where all produce is imported.
A bust of Lenin in Pyramiden – the world’s northernmost Lenin monument!
Dwindling coal prices, difficulties with coal extraction from the mountain, and the catastrophic Russian plane crash which claimed the lives of 141 workers all contributed towards the discontinuation of the mining operations.
The first stop on a walking tour of Pyramiden is the memorial stele near the edge of town.
The last ton of coal was extracted in 1998 and is now displayed in a coal wagon which is at the base of the memorial stele.
Soviet emblems on the wall of the cultural hall.
In 1998, the town was then abandoned – frozen in time in this frozen land!
Notices on the community notice board inside the cultural centre at Pyramiden.
Everything remains in place, including notices on the community notice board, in what has become a time capsule of Soviet Arctic life from last century.
Wedding announcement on the community noticeboard in Pyramiden.
Pyramiden is a fascinating tourist attraction and should not be missed!
Soviet-era apartment buildings in Pyramiden.
Prior to the pandemic, I was fortunate enough to visit the abandoned Soviet city of Pripyat in the Chernobyl exclusion zone.
There are many parallels between Pyramiden and Pripyat, including the fact that they were both built as model Soviet towns and now lie abandoned, frozen in time.
A view of the auditorium, a part of the cultural centre in Pyramiden.
Since 2007, there has been a concerted effort to make Pyramiden a tourist attraction, this included a renovation of the town’s one hotel, Hotel Pyramiden, in 2014.
The last ton of coal extracted at Pyramiden is on display at the town entrance.
During the winter months, when sea ice blocks access to the town, there are a staff of 10 caretakers in town.
The swimming hall at Pyramiden features many beautiful design elements.
During the summer tourist season, there are a team of 20 staff who run the hotel, the one shop, the one cafe/ bar and provide tour guiding services.
Our Russian guide, who was required to carry a loaded rifle as protection against polar bears.
Due to the presence of polar bears in the area, guides carry loaded rifles and you must not wander off!
As a model city, Pyramiden was blessed with many facilities which otherwise wouldn’t have existed in a such a remote, tiny town. Everything was built featuring Soviet architecture, which bears witness to a past heyday which has now past.
Pyramiden provides a fascinating window into life in a Soviet-era Arctic town.
The kitchen, at what was once the 24-hour staff cafeteria in Pyramiden.
The main avenue, which is overlooked by a bust of Lenin (of course!), is lined with many impressive buildings, including the staff cafeteria.
The beautiful ‘Polar’ mosaic which is the centrepiece of the staff cafeteria at Pyramiden.
The cafeteria is accessed via a twin staircase, above which is a large, and once beautiful, mosaic of an arctic landscape.
The abandoned staff cafeteria at Pyramiden.
In Pyramiden’s heyday, up to 1000 people used to eat in the cafeteria, which was open 24 hours per day! Today it’s large, empty and silent!
The world’s northernmost swimming pool – the swimming hall in Pyramiden.
Also on the avenue is a swimming hall, featuring lots of fancy wooden panels and an ornate wooden ceiling. All wood on treeless Svalbard has to be imported!
Entrance to the swimming hall in Pyramiden.
The crowning glory of the town was the sports and cultural centre which is located at the top of the avenue.
The entrance to the cultural centre in Pyramiden.
This large building featured an auditorium with rows of comfortable red seats, sports hall, library, music rooms and even a ballet studio. Not bad for a remote Arctic town.
The auditorium in the cultural centre in Pyramiden.
The sport hall inside the cultural centre at Pyramiden.
Music room in the cultural centre at Pyramiden.
A sound-proof music studio in the cultural centre at Pyramiden.
Ballet studio in the cultural centre at Pyramiden.
A bust of Lenin in storage at the cultural centre in Pyramiden.
While the human residents have left, thousands of new residences have moved in!
Seagulls nesting on the window ledges of an abandoned apartment block in the former Russian mining town of Pyramiden.
As is the want of mother nature, Seagulls have established nests on the window ledges of the abandoned apartment buildings.
Seagulls nesting on the window ledges of an abandoned apartment block in the former Russian mining town of Pyramiden.
For the seagulls, these buildings are just another sea cliff with lots of convenient nooks for nests.
Accommodation
One of my rooms at the Radisson Blu hotel, the best accommodation option in Svalbard.
Tip: For a complete listing of all accommodation options on Svalbard, please refer to the “Where To Stay” page on the Visit Svalbard website.
There are currently a total of 6 hotels, 1 apartment complex, 4 guest houses and 1 camping ground available in Longyearbyen. I’ve included details for the main properties below with current (Summer 2022) room rates.
Capacity Constraints
Booking accommodation in Longyearbyen can be tricky, especially during the busy summer cruise ship season.
Hotel beds are limited and, during my stay, the town was completely booked out on more than one occasion, due to an influx of cruise ship passengers.
While many passengers arrive and depart on special charter flights, some choose to extend their stay in the Arctic by checking into hotels in Longyearbyen.
While staying at the 128-room Radisson BLU Polar hotel – the largest hotel in town – a group of 100 cruise ship passengers checked in, waiting to join their ship the following day. This one group filled most of the hotel!
While there are capacity issues, I was told by local tourism operators that there are no plans to add additional rooms by building more hotels and that there is no desire from local authorities to encourage mass tourism to what is a special, and fragile, part of the planet.
The best option is to first check hotel availability prior to booking flights, lest you end up sleeping outside with the polar bears!
Accommodation Costs
As with all other travel costs on the archipelago, accommodation costs on Svalbard are high!
The high costs are completely understandable when you consider market conditions – a remote town, removed from the rest of the world, with limited room capacity and huge (summer time) demand.
Housing in Longyearbyen is limited with most properties owned by companies who use them to house their workers.
Normally, in such a tight market, you could look at alternative accommodation options such as Airbnb. However, you will find nothing listed on that website, due to the fact that there is an apartment shortage in Longyearbyen. Most properties are privately owned by companies who use them to house their staff.
As an example of hotel costs, a ‘standard twin’ room at the Coal Miners’ Cabins, one of the few budget options in Longyearbyen, currently costs NOK1,445 (€138) per night, while an ‘economy twin’ room costs NOK1,245 (€119) per night.
The hotel offers 73, spartanly furnished rooms, with almost all rooms using shared bathrooms / toilets, which are located at the end of the corridor.
It’s hostel facilities at hotel prices!
If you wish to have a private bathroom, you will need to book one of their 3 ‘family’ rooms, which sleeps up to 4 people, and costs NOK4,295 (€413) per night.
Longyearbyen Accommodation
Longyearbyen is the main town on Svalbard, offering the only real selection of services such as shops, accommodation, restaurants, transport etc. All hotels include a buffet breakfast in their rates.
Radisson Blu Polar Hotel Spitsbergen
Another of my rooms at the Radisson BLU hotel, my favourite accommodation in Svalbard.
Offering 128 very comfortable and well-appointed rooms, this is the hotel of choice for cruise ship companies looking to accommodate large groups of passengers. Finding a room can be tricky if there are boats in town!
Apart from their comfortable rooms, the hotel offers a fine dining restaurant and the world’s northernmost pub (refer to the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more details).
Current published room rates are:
Standard Twin/ Double: NOK2,395 (€230)
Junior Suite: NOK2,845 (€274)
Suite: NOK3,595 (€346)
Funken Lodge
Another property by the Hurtigruten group, Funken Lodge offers 88 rooms in what was formerly the accommodation quarters for single employees of the trading company Store Norske.
My ‘Standard Single’ room at The Vault hotel, which cost the princely sum of NOK 2,555 (€246) per night.
Another property by Svalbard Adventures, Svalbard Hotel | The Vault is named after the Global Seed Vault and includes a world map in the lobby, indicating locations from which seed donations have been made to the vault.
The hotel offers 35 rooms in total, with 33 double rooms and 2 single rooms. The cost difference between the two room types is just NOK100 (€10) so, even for a single traveller, it’s worth paying the extra for a larger room with a larger bed.
Unfortunately, I had no choice but to accept a single room as the hotel was fully booked. My room was very pokey, being not much larger than the single bed.
Current published room rates are:
Single: NOK2,550 (€246)
Double: NOK2,650 (€256)
Svalbard Hotell | Lodge
Also, by Svalbard Adventures, Svalbard Hotell | Lodge offers 10 apartments in the heart of town, with each apartment accommodating either 4 or 6 guests.
Current published room rates are:
4-guest Lodge: NOK3,750 (€362)
6-guest Lodge: NOK3,750 (€362)
Mary-Ann’s Polarrigg
A project of love by owner Mary-Ann Dahle, the very eclectic Mary-Ann’s Polarrigg is housed in a former miner’s barracks. This quirky establishment, which has been furnished with relics from former coal mines, includes 17 single, 19 double and four family rooms.
Current published room rates are:
Single: NOK1,195 (€116)
Double: NOK2,295 (€223)
Family Rooms: NOK3,295 (€319)
Basecamp Hotel
If ever you wished to experience the life of a wildlife trapper living in the wilderness, a rustic room at the Basecamp Hotel could be for you.
Modelled on a typical trapper’s hut, complete with modern conveniences and a pub next door, the Basecamp Hotel offers 16 rooms in the heart of Longyearbyen.
Current published room rates are:
Single: NOK1,390 (€135)
Twin: NOK2,090 (€203)
Triple: NOK2,390 (€232)
Suite: NOK2,990 (€290)
Nybyen Guesthouses
Located 2 km inland from Longyearbyen, at the end of the glacial valley, the small settlement of Nybyen (New Town), was originally established to house the coal miners from mine 2A.
The former accommodation cabins are today home to the two cheapest guest houses in town. Both properties offer basic rooms, with shared bathrooms and toilets at the end of the corridor!
Coal Miners’ Cabins
The budget offering by the Hurtigruten group, Coal Miners’ Cabins charges hotel rates for hostel facilities! This is one of the more affordable options in town, although it’s located 2 km outside of town at the end of the glacial valley.
This guesthouse offers 76 rooms, with almost all rooms using shared bathrooms. The only rooms with private bathrooms are a couple of “Family” rooms.
I spent 4 nights in a spartanly furnished “Economy Twin” room, using a (busy) shared bathroom and toilet at the end of the corridor.
Standard Twin (2 persons – shared bathroom): NOK1,645 (€159)
Large Twin with sink (2 persons – shared bathroom): NOK1,745 (€169)
Family Room (4 persons – private bathroom): NOK4,295 (€415)
Gjestehuset 102
Across the road from Coal Miners’ Cabins, this guesthouse was originally built to house miners from coal mine #2A and was formerly known as the “millionaires’ mansion”, being home to the best and most experienced miners.
Gjestehuset 102 has 61 beds (7 singles, 19 doubles and 4 four-person dorms).
Current published room rates are:
Bed in mixed 4-person dormitory (shared bathroom): NOK500 (€48)
Standard Double (2 persons – shared bathroom): NOK1,330 (€129)
Standard Single (1 person – shared bathroom): NOK930 (€90)
Barentsburg Accommodation
Barentsburg Hotel
The Barentsburg Hotel is the one hotel in town. If you do stay overnight, you might be the only guest!
The main game in sleepy Barentsburg, the Barentsburg Hotel offers 46 rooms, including 5 suites and 41 standard twin rooms, with a total of 92 beds.
Current published room rates are:
Single: NOK1550 (€149)
Double: NOK1900 (€183)
Suite: NOK2100 (€202)
Pomor Hostel
The Pomor hostel is the only other accommodation option in Barentsburg.
Located next door to the Barentsburg Hotel, the Pomor Hostel is the cheapest option in town. Offering 30 double and triple rooms (all with shared bathroom), with a total of 72 beds.
Current published room rates are:
Twin: NOK1,000 (€96)
Triple: NOK1,200 (€115)
Breakfast costs an additional NOK200 (€19,20)!
Pyramiden Accommodation
Hotel Pyramiden
The only accommodation option in this fascinating former Russian mining town, Hotel Pyramiden offers 43 rooms, including 38 standard rooms and 5 suites.
It’s important to note that there is no WiFi or mobile phone signal anywhere in Pyramiden. If you wish to drop off the grid, this is the place for you! Best to bring a good book!
Current published room rates are:
Single: NOK2000 (€192)
Double: NOK2500 (€240)
Suite: NOK3000 (€288)
Eating Out
For a small, remote settlement at the top of the world, Longyearbyen offers a superb range of dining options, which are on par with anything you’d find on the mainland.
Being a compact town, everything in Longyearbyen is a 5-minute walk, with this town of 2,500 souls boasting 6 restaurants, 2 cafés and 5 bars.
Tip: For a full list of dining options on Svalbard, you should refer to the Food & Drink page on the Visit Svalbard website.
Dining Costs
Most hotels in town include a buffet breakfast in their nightly rate.
For lunch, the place of choice for most locals and tourists is Fruene café, which is one of two cafes in town, and the only cafe serving food. A typical lunch, with a coffee, costs between NOK150 – NOK200 (€14.75 – €20).
For dinner, a main course of either steak, fish or local reindeer will cost around NOK350 (€35), with a glass of local beer costing up to NOK90 (€8.74) for a pint.
Restaurants
Restaurant Nansen
Located inside the Radisson BLU Hotel, Restaurant Nansen is one of several food and beverage options in town from the Hurtigruten group. This is the place to dine if you are curious to try Arctic ingredients combined with Asian flavours.
For those staying at the Radisson BLU, the daily breakfast buffet, the best in town, is served in the restaurant.
Stationen
Restaurant Stationen offers a selection of international and Norwegian cuisine.
Stationen, whose name is inspired from the many whaling stations which once existed on Svalbard, offers a selection of international and Norwegian cuisine which is served in what used to be the former miner’s cafe – cafè Busen.
Another cosy establishment, restaurant Stationen serves generous, flavoursome meals portions, along with Svalbard brewery beers.
Kroa Restaurant
The cosy and inviting Kroa Restaurant, which is operated by Basecamp Spitsbergen, serves delicious sandwiches, soups, pizza, steaks, fish and more in a very warm and friendly, ‘log cabin-esque’ environment. If you are in need of a warm and cosy gastro-pub, Kroa is the place.
Open for lunch and dinner, sandwiches are priced on the menu at around NOK140 (€13.50) while a hamburger will set you back NOK180 (€17.30). At dinner, a steak or fish meal costs around NOK330 (€32).
Svalbar
The popular Svalbar offers very good hamburgers and pizzas which pair well with the local craft beers.
One of two restaurants owned by Svalbard Adventures, the busy and popularSvalbarserves up a menu of hamburgers and pizza – all of which are wonderfully tasty!
I can personally recommend their Blue Cheese burger which is priced at NOK175 (€17). Pizzas, which are cooked in a brick oven, cost on average NOK159 (€15.28).
Beers from the Svalbard brewery cost either NOK69/ €6.78 (.33L) or NOK89/ €8.74 (.5L).
Polfareren Restaurant
The 2nd offering from Svalbard Adventures is the delectable Polfareren Restaurant at the Svalbard Hotell. If you wish to try local Svalbard reindeer, this is the place to do it, with a reindeer main course priced at NOK375 (€37).
Cafés
Café Fruene
Of the two cafes in Longyearbyen, Café Fruene is the main game! Located on the main street, opposite the Coop supermarket, this large, popular cafe, which is the default lunch venue for locals and tourists, is especially busy whenever cruise ships are in town.
The powerhouse of this bustling operation is a team of efficient Filipinos who keep things moving.
Apart from serving delicious homemade soups, sandwiches, cakes, pastries and coffee, the cafe produces their own (very fine) chocolates – which makes them the world’s northernmost chocolaterie.
Café Huskies
The very inviting Café Huskies features a couple of friendly husky dogs.
Located on the main road, opposite the Radisson BLU hotel, the low-key Café Huskies is a cosy and inviting cafe and gift shop. The stars of the café are two friendly husky dogs who love being petted – when they’re not sleeping on the sofa!
While Café Fruene offers a much larger food selection, Café Huskies offer a few different Poke Bowls, sandwiches, coffee and a few sweet treats, including a delicious rhubarb cheesecake.
Tip: If you enjoy Thai food, the Thai shop, next door to Café Huskies, offers a few Thai takeaway options at lunch!
Bars
Svalbard offers 6 bars in Longyearbyen, 2 in Barentsburg and two breweries – one in Barentsburg and one in Longyearbyen.
Longyearbyen
Bars can be found inside the restaurants listed above – namely, Svalbar, Kroa and Stationen. In addition to those bars, there are the following establishments where you can quench your thirst.
Barentz Gastropub
Barentz Gastropub at the Radisson BLU Polar hotel – the world’s northernmost pub.
Located inside the Radisson BLU hotel, the world’s northernmost pub, Barentz Gastropub, is far from chilly. This warm and inviting space is one of the most popular bars in town, serving tasty food and a good selection of Svalbard Brewery beers.
Reindeer stew with a glass of Svalbard brewery beer at Barentz pub in Longyearbyen.
While the pizzas are very good, I especially recommend the local (Svalbard) reindeer stew which is sprinkled with pomegranate seeds and served with a side of mashed potato. Delicious!
Svalbard Bryggeri (Svalbard Brewery)
Beer taps, featuring the full range of beers, in the tasting room at Svalbard Brewery.
When in Longyearbyen, it’s impossible to miss the local brew, which is served in every bar and restaurant.
Located at the port, the world’s northernmost brewery, Svalbard Bryggeri(Svalbard Brewery), is the creation of a former coal miner, Robert Johansen, who, before he could start brewing, spent 6 years on a legal quest to change a law which had prohibited the production of alcohol on Svalbard since 1928!
The brewing room at the world’s northernmost brewery.
The fact that he succeeded is a testament to his passion for his brewing. This passion is evident in the smooth and distinct flavours of his five different craft beers: an IPA, a stout, a pale ale, a pilsner, and a Weiss-bier.
A glass of Svalbard beer is a great way to relax after a day of exploring.
When you brew beer in the Arctic, you have access to a special ingredient – pure glacier water! Sixteen percent of the water used to brew Svalbard Brewery’s beer comes from the nearby Bogerbreen glacier. It’s an ingredient which makes this beer truly unique!
Today, Svalbard Bryggeri supplies every bar and restaurant in Svalbard, exports to Norway and Europe, and runs Brewery tours for locals and tourists.
A very quaffable Stout beer, with 16% glacier water, from Svalbard brewery.
While in Longyearbyen, I personally sampled all of their beers and couldn’t determine my favourite, so I had to start the process all over again!
Karlsberger Pub
If you enjoy quaffing a fine whisky, the Karlsberger Pub is the place for you. Boasting over a thousand different types of whisky, this is the place to warm your soul on a frigid Arctic evening.
Barentsburg
Red Bear Bar & Brewery
The Red Bear brewery in Barentsburg was the first brewery established on Svalbard.
Up until 2014, a law existed on Svalbard which prohibited the production of any alcohol which was stronger than 2.5 degrees. It was in 2014 that Robert Johansen, of Svalbard Brewery, managed to have the law abolished.
Prior to 2014, the Red Bear Bar & Brewery in Barentsburg, which was opened in 2012 – making it the first of the two breweries on Svalbard – brewed a beer which was slightly less than 2.5 degrees.
The brewery at Red Bear Bar & Brewery in Barentsburg.
Today, thankfully, the brewery produces full strength craft beers, including a Pale Ale, India Pale Ale (IPA), Stout and an Imperial Stout, all of which can be sampled at their restaurant.
The restaurant menu includes main courses of hamburgers, fish and steak at around NOK250 (€25) each.
Icebreaker Bar Krasin
Located inside the Barentsburg hotel, the “Icebreaker Bar Krasin” offers a selection of drinks, including ‘Soviet Arctic cocktails’.
Named after the icebreaker “Krasin”, the Icebreaker Bar Krasin includes an interior design inspired by the saloons of old icebreakers. The specialities here include a range of ‘Soviet Arctic cocktails’ which have their origins in the Russian Arctic region.
Visa Requirements
In terms of immigration – Svalbard is unique – it is a true no-man’s land!
Although Svalbard is part of Norway, the Norwegian Immigration Act does not apply to the archipelago. As such, when you fly to and from mainland Norway, you will be stamped in and out of the Schengen zone. There are no immigration formalities on Svalbard.
Foreigners do not need a visa or work and residence permits from the Norwegian authorities to travel to Svalbard. Due to this, Svalbard is a popular place for workers from Asia, especially Thailand and the Philippines. All that is required to live on Svalbard is a paying job.
However, foreign citizens with a visa requirement for the Schengen Area must have a Schengen visa when travelling to and from Svalbard via mainland Norway. There is no other way to access the archipelago.
For those who require a Schengen visa, it’s important to ensure that you apply for a double-entry Schengen visa so you can return to the Schengen Area (mainland Norway) after your stay in Svalbard.
On my return flight to Oslo airport from Svalbard, most of the returning Filipinos didn’t have Schengen re-entry visas and were detained at immigration where they had to wait for a special transit visa to be issued.
Movement anywhere on Svalbard, including between Longyearbyen (Norwegian) and Barentsburg (Russian) requires no passport since the archipelago is owned by Norway.
Flights to Svalbard Airport are operated from Norway by Scandinavian Airlines and Norwegian Air Shuttle.
Air
The only airport on the archipelago, Svalbard Airport (IATA: LYR) has the distinction of being the northernmost airport in the world with scheduled public flights.
The terminal at Svalbard airport – the northernmost airport in the world with scheduled public flights.
The airport is located 5 km (3.1 mi) northwest of Longyearbyen on the west coast.
Scheduled Flights
The following airlines offer scheduled flights between Svalbard and Norway:
Roundtrip airfares from Oslo to Svalbard during the summer season typically cost around NOK7,000 (€678).
Charter Flights
During the summer cruise ship season, many of the cruise ship companies operate private charter flights to Svalbard, which avoids overwhelming the regularly scheduled flights, with hundreds of cruise ship passengers.
Airport Transport
The Longyearbyen airport shuttle bus operates between all hotels and the airport according to the flight schedule.
Taxis and buses meet each flight with a one-way bus ticket costing NOK 75 (€7.21) or a return ticket costing NOK 120 (€11.54). The bus, whose schedule corresponds to the flight schedule, connects all hotels in Longyearbyen with the airport.
A typical taxi fare is around NOK 180 (€17.30).
Although the airport is just 5 km west of town, walking between town and the airport isn’t allowed, unless you are equipped with polar bear protection – i.e. a rifle!
Getting Around
Road to nowhere! There are just 40 km of roads on Svalbard which are within the town limits of Longyearbyen and Barentsburg.
Road Network
The most popular vehicle on Svalbard is the snow mobile.
There are just 40 km of roads on Svalbard, most of which is in and around Longyearbyen. The only way to travel between Longyearbyen and Barentsburg is by boat. Snow mobiles are the most popular vehicle on Svalbard but are of no use in the drier summer season.
Polar Bear warning signs mark the town limit and should not be passed by anyone on foot unless they are carrying polar bear protection (i.e. a loaded rifle!)
Soviet-era motorbike in Pyramiden.
Public Transport
“Welcome” to Longyearbyen.
Longyearbyen
A daily tour of Longyearbyen is offered by the Svalbard bus company.
There is a modern bus fleet in Longyearbyen, which is operated by Svalbard Bus and Taxi.The buses provide airport shuttle services and transport services for visiting cruise ship passengers.
A view towards Longyearbyen, as seen from the bus tour, from the top of the mountain near coal mine #7.
One of the better value excursions on Svalbard is the daily bus tour (NOK385 / €38) of Longyearbyen which takes you out of town, to the Global Seed Vault and a panoramic viewpoint below the only working coal mine.
Barentsburg
This one antique Russian bus is the sole means of public transport in tiny Barentsburg.
There is one, very cute, antique Russian bus which drives around the two or three streets in downtown Barentsburg.
Taxi
Two taxi companies operate in Longyearbyen – Longyearbyen Taxi and Svalbard Bus and Taxi (Phone: +47 7902 1052).
A typical fare from downtown to the Coal Miners’ Cabins, which are located 2 km out of town, costs NOK 120 (€11.54), while a typical fare to the airport costs NOK 180 (€17.30).
Rental Car
A Svalbard car license plate.
There is one car rental company in Longyearbyen – Arctic Autorent, which can be contacted at:
Other travel-related quizzes are also available on BuzzFeed.
Travel Quizzes on taste2travel
Welcome to taste2travel!
My name is Darren McLean, I’m the owner of this website and I love travel trivia and I certainly enjoy creating travel quizzes.
As of today (August 2024), there are 76 different quizzes on taste2travel.
This number will continue to grow so don’t forget to check back periodically.
Each quiz on taste2travel contains 20 questions, which means there is a total of 1,520 travel trivia questions waiting to challenge you.
In fact, taste2travel has enough trivia questions to keep a pub trivia night going for many weeks.
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Currencies
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Capital Cities
UNESCO World Heritage Sites
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As of September 2023, there are a total of 1,199 World Heritage Sites located across 168 countries, of which 933 are cultural, 227 are natural, and 39 are mixed.
All of these are included on a newly revised map which you can export to your own device.
Introduction
One of the joys of travelling is being able to visit incredible monuments and areas of natural beauty which are considered to be of immense value to humanity.
The Grand Canyon is one of 1,199 UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Locating these special places is made easy thanks to the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) who designate places of significance as World Heritage Sites.
World Heritage Sites are designated by UNESCO for having either cultural, historical, scientific, natural or some other form of significance. The sites are categorised as either ‘cultural‘, ‘natural‘ or ‘mixed‘.
The top ten UNESCO World Heritage Site countries.
As of 2023, there were a total of 1,199 World Heritage Sites located across 168 countries.
Located in the highlands of Peru, the iconic Machu Picchu is just one of 1,199 UNESCO World Heritage Sites around the world.
Visiting iconic sites such as the Pyramids in Egypt, the Galapagos Islands, Machu Picchu in Peru or the Grand Canyon in the United States provide lifetime memories for those who make the journey. These are just 4 of the 1,199 World Heritage Sites around the world!
World Heritage Site Map
How to locate these 1,199 WHS sites across 168 countries?
I’ve created an interactive Google map (above), using data from UNESCO (updated in November of 2023), which shows the locations of the three different types of WHS sites around the world.
The map allows you to zoom in and select a specific site by clicking on a marker which will provide detailed site information, which has been provided by UNESCO.
You can launch the map in a new browser window by clicking the box icon in the upper-right corner.
You can also share/ export the map by clicking on the share button.
Marker Key
The WHS site category markers are:
Yellow = Cultural sites
Green = Natural sites
Blue =Mixed sites
Three different colour markers indicate the three different site category types.
Serial World Heritage Sites
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Such a profusion of sites offers a lifetime, or two, of exploration for the enthusiastic nomad!
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This is a Cape Verde Travel Guide from taste2travel.com
Date Visited: March 2022
Introduction
Rising up from the depths of the Atlantic Ocean, 620 km (385 miles) off the coast of West Africa, the remote and isolated archipelago of Cape Verde remained uninhabited until discovered by the Portuguese in the 15th century.
The stunning Santa Monica beach is one of the finest on Boa Vista.
Once a centre for the African slave trade and an important stopover port for a who’s who of famous navigators, Cape Verde today is redefining itself.
A popular tourism destination offering world-class beaches and resorts, flights carrying European holiday makers arrive every day on the tourism hubs of Sal and Boa Vista. It’s these flights which offer the best value means of accessing what is normally a remote and expensive destination.
The children of Cape Verde love posing for the camera.
Comprised of 10 diverse, volcanic islands, Cape Verde is a fascinating travel destination.
From Creole culture, history, stunning and remote beaches, desert islands, kite surfing, hiking, fishing, scuba diving, snorkelling and so much more – Cape Verde offers something for everyone.
A panoramic view of the ‘Salinas de Pedra de Lume’, a salt mine located inside a volcanic crater.
While on Cape Verde, I had the opportunity to explore the islands of Santiago, Sal and Boa Vista. These are included in this article. I look forward to returning again one day to spend more time exploring the other islands.
Ethnically, Cape Verdeans are a mix of African and Portuguese.
It should be noted that expensive domestic flights are the only means of travel between most islands, although a less-than-reliable ferry service does operate on occasion.
A hand-painted ‘Strela’ beer advertisement, covers the side of a building in Sal Rei, Boa Vista.
Flights are very limited and sell out weeks in advance. If you plan to do any island hopping, you need to book flights well in advance. Please refer to the ‘Getting Around‘ section for more on domestic flights.
A kite surfer enjoying the breezy conditions at the aptly named Kite beach, a major tourist draw on Sal Island.
As for travel costs – Cape Verde is not your typical African destination. It is one of the most developed countries in Africa and, as such, much pricier, with a budget of €100/day (USD$110) being reasonable. This is not a place for those on a shoestring budget!
Location
Praia, Cape Verde
Located 620 km (385 miles) off the west coast of Africa, Cape Verde is named for the westernmost cape of Africa, Cape Verde (French: Cap Vert; Portuguese: Cabo Verde), which is located in nearby Senegal and is the nearest point on the African continent to the island nation.
A map of Cape Verde, indicating the Barlavento and Sotavento island groups. Source: Nations Online Project.
Consisting of 10 islands – nine inhabited, one uninhabited, this archipelago nation is divided into the Barlavento (Windward) group to the north and the Sotavento (Leeward) group to the south.
The Barlavento Islands include Santo Antão, São Vicente, Santa Luzia (which is uninhabited), São Nicolau, Sal, and Boa Vista, together with the islets of Raso and Branco.
The Sotavento Islands include Maio, Santiago, Fogo, and Brava and the three islets called the Rombos—Grande, Luís Carneiro, and Cima.
History
A panoramic view over Cidade Velha from Forte Real de São Filipe, which was built following a raid by Sir Francis Drake.
The Cape Verde archipelago was uninhabited until the 15th century, when Portuguese explorers discovered and colonised the islands in 1456, thus establishing the first European settlement in the tropics.
In 1462, Portuguese settlers arrived on the island of Santiago and founded a settlement they called Ribeira Grande, which is today called Cidade Velha (Old City).
Fishing boats at Cidade Velha, Santiago Island.
The ruins of Cidade Velha, which lies on the south coast, 15 km west of the capital, Praia, are the site of the only UNESCO World Heritage site in Cape Verde.
Due to its location, Cidade Velha was an important stop-over port for a who’s-who of famous navigators. In its heyday, this vital port hosted Christopher Columbus, who spent time here on his 3rd voyage to the Americas. Ferdinand Magellan stopped over at the beginning of what would become his world-record setting circumnavigation of the world.
The port, which was used as a transit warehouse for the storage of riches from the new world, also attracted famous pirates and privateers such as Sir Francis Drake who sacked Cidade Velha and other towns on Santiago between the 11th and 28th of November 1585.
He then continued on to raid and sack various Spanish ports in the Americas. You can read more about the exploits of Sir Francis Drake in my guides to the Dominican Republic and the British Virgin Islands.
The large fort, Forte Real de São Filipe, which overlooks Cidade Velha, was built shortly after the raid by Sir Francis Drake.
Erected in 1512 in the main square of Cidade Velha, the marble Pelourinho was used to punish rebellious slaves by public flogging.
Located a short distance from Africa, Cidade Velha played a significant role in the Atlantic slave trade with many slave ships stopping in the port to gather supplies before sailing across the Atlantic to the New World.
A reminder of the slave trade can be seen in the main square of Cidade Velha where the marble Pelourinho (Portuguese for ‘pillory’), which dates from 1512, was used as a symbol of municipal power, and of slavery, with rebellious slaves being chained up and publicly flogged.
Following the demise of the slave trade, Cape Verde suffered an economic decline. Its fortunes were somewhat revived with it playing a role as a ship re-supply store. Cape Verde was the first stop of Charles Darwin’s epic voyage with the HMS Beagle in 1832.
A sculpture of former Portuguese Governor General Alexandre Alberto da Rocha de Serpa Pinto, Albuquerque Square, Praia, Santiago.
With few resources, and little investment from Portugal, Cape Verdeans became discontent and demands for independence grew.
In 1956, Amilcar Cabral formed an independence movement which had the aim of securing independence for both Cape Verde and Guinea-Bissau (another Portuguese colony in West Africa). On January 20, 1973, Cabral was assassinated.
Cape Verde eventually achieved full independence on July 5, 1975.
People
Children on the island of Boa Vista with their classic mestiço features.
Previously uninhabited, Cape Verde never sustained a native population but has been populated by European and African migrants.
Girls playing among the ruins of Cidade Velha, on the island of Santiago.
The modern population of Cape Verde descends from the mixture of European settlers and African slaves who were brought to the islands to work on Portuguese plantations.
A young girl on the island of Boa Vista.
The overwhelming majority of the population is of mixed European and African descent and is often referred to as mestiço or creole.
Young girls on the island of Santiago. The children of Cape Verde love being photographed.
The last official Census in 2013 recorded a total population of 512,096 inhabitants with almost half (236,000) living on the main island of Santiago.
Visitors can expect to be greeted by warm smiles in Cape Verde.
The capital, Praia, is home to a quarter of the country’s population, while the population of the islands of Sal and Boa Vista is 40,000 and 6,300 respectively.
Young girl in Cidade Velha, Santiago Island.
West African Migration
A souvenir shop in Sal Rei, one of many such shops runs by West African migrants.
Due to its relative prosperity, compared to its African neighbours, many West Africans have found their way to Cape Verde in search of work, and other opportunities, which are not readily available in their own countries.
Many of these migrants run handicraft shops, especially on the tourist islands of Boa Vista and Sal, which sell arts and crafts from West Africa.
Flag
A very elongated version of the Cape Verde flag, flying outside the presidential palace in Praia.
The National Flag of the Republic of Cape Verde consists of five unequal horizontal bands of blue, white, and red, with a circle of ten yellow five-pointed stars.
Souvenir flags of Cape Verde, which make an ideal gift for a visiting vexillologist.
The ten yellow stars represent the main islands of Cape Verde while the blue bands represent the ocean and the sky.
The band of white and red represents the road toward the construction of the nation, with white representing ‘peace’ and red representing ‘effort’.
One of the more impressive flags, which is super-elongated, can be seen flying outside the presidential palace in Praia.
Currency
Cape Verde banknotes feature cultural icons, including Cesária Évora who appears on the CVE2,000 note.
The official currency of Cape Verde is the escudo, which has the international currency code of CVE. The currency sign is the cifrão, which is similar to the dollar sign but always written with two vertical lines: .
The escudo is pegged to the euro at a rate of €1 = CVE110. The euro circulates freely on Cape Verde where, for convenience sake, it is accepted at a slightly discounted rate of €1 = CVE100.
On the main tourist islands of Sal and Boa Vista, local businesses, taxis etc, accept payment in both euro and escudos and will often provide change in either one currency or a mixture of the two.
The Cape Verdean escudo is the official currency of Cape Verde.
The current series of banknotes were issued by the Banco de Cabo Verde (BCV) on the 22 December 2014. The notes honour Cape Verdean figures in the fields of literature, music, and politics.
Banknotes consist of denominations of CVE200, CVE500, CVE1000, CVE2000 and CVE5000 with the CVE5,000 note rarely seen and not even held by most banks.
The polymer version of the CVE200 banknote features Henrique Teixeira de Sousa, a prominent doctor and literary figure.
The CVE200 note, which features a portrait of Henrique Teixeira de Sousa, a prominent doctor, novelist, poet, and essayist was re-released in polymer, the first polymer banknote released in Cape Verde.
In a decision, which runs counter to world-wide currency trends, the BCV recently decided to re-issue the CVE200 note on paper after the bank received a large number of complaints from locals who didn’t like handling the polymer note.
Banking
A typical queue, outside a bank in downtown Praia.
Banks in Cape Verde are easily identified due to their unfortunate queues which see locals standing around for long periods of time, in the blistering sun, waiting their turn to enter the bank.
Banks in Cape Verde should be avoided at all costs, unless you wish to spend your holiday in a queue.
Costs
Not Cheap!
An average daily budget for Cape Verde is around €100 (CVE11,000)! This would allow you to stay in a decent mid-range hotel, rent a car, dine in decent restaurants and enjoy a drink or two with dinner.
The best way to reduce costs is to dine in local restaurants where a tasty meal costs no more than €5.
A menu at a local restaurant on the island of Boa Vista.
If you plan on doing any island-hopping, inter-island flights will add a considerable amount to your travel costs. Not only are flights expensive, they are very infrequent and often sold-out weeks in advance.
See the “Getting Around” section below for more details (and warnings) on domestic flights.
Domestic flights on Cape Verde are operated by TICV who have just two ATR-72’s in service. Flights are infrequent and expensive!
Suggested daily budgets:
Backpacker: CVE4500 per day (hardly feasible for Cape Verde!)
Flashpacker: CVE4500-CVE11,000 per day.
Top-end: CVE11,000+ per day.
Sample costs:
Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): CVE150 (€1.50)
Water (0.5 litre bottle): CVE100 (€1.00)
Cappuccino: CVE150 (€1.50)
Local Beer (small glass of the excellent ‘Strela‘ draft): CVE100 (€1.00)
Imported Beer (small bottle of Heineken): CVE250 (€2.50)
Taxi from airport to town centre: a flat fare of CVE1,000 (€10)
Car Rental (per day): CVE5,500 – CVE6,600 (€50 – 60)
Located 640 km (400 miles) off the West African coast, Santiago Island is the largest and most populous island of Cape Verde.
First discovered in 1460 by the Italian navigator, António de Noli, the island is home to the first colonial settlement established anywhere in the tropics, Cidade Velha, which is also the only UNESCO World Heritage Site in the country.
It is also the location of the capital city, Praia, and home to almost 50% of the entire population.
A volcanic island, Santiago is Cape Verde’s most agriculturally productive island, with much of the produce making its way to Sucupira market in downtown Praia.
The island is very mountainous, with jagged razorback peaks dominating the view. The drive from the southern city of Praia to the northern city of Tarrafal winds its way over the Serra Malagueta, a steep mountain range which peaks at 1064 m (3,490 ft).
If you have any interest in the history and culture of Cape Verde, spending time on Santiago is essential!
Praia
In 1770, following numerous pirate attacks on nearby Cidade Velha, and due to its strategic position on a high plateau, Praia was chosen as the new capital of Cape Verde.
The city is located on the southern coast of Santiago Island. The old town centre, which is built on the plateau, overlooks the Atlantic Ocean. The main street is the pedestrianised Avenida 5 de Julho (5th of July Avenue).
The international airport, Nelson Mandela International Airport (IATA: RAI), is located 3 km from Praia.
Avenida 5 de Julho
Avenida 5 de Julho is the main pedestrian street in downtown Praia.
Avenida 5 de Julhois a pedestrian street which lies at the heart of the historic ‘plateau’ district of Praia. It is here that you’ll find most hotels, restaurants, bars, shops, banks and sights of interest.
The whole avenue is lined with impressively sculptured hedges.
Sucupira Market
“Produce Central” – Sucupira market in downtown Praia.
There are few sights in downtown Praia but one which shouldn’t be missed is the central Sucupira market, which is the largest produce market in Cape Verde. The market is located on the pedestrian street – Avenida 5 de Julho.
While staying on the desert islands of Sal and Boa Vista, I was amazed at the range of fresh produce available – especially considering those islands sustain zero agriculture.
It was during my visit to Sucupira market, and Santiago, that I realised from where the produce originated.
Presidential Palace
Located in the historic heart of Praia, the Palácio da Presidência da República serves as the residence of the President of Cape Verde.
The current President of Cape Verde is José Maria Pereira Neves, who previously served as Prime Minister from 2001 to 2016. He is a member of the African Party for the Independence of Cape Verde (PAICV).
The President resides in the Palácio da Presidência da República (Palace of the Presidency of the Republic), a beautiful neoclassical style palace which was constructed in 1894. It is situated on Rua Serpa Pinto, at the southern end of Plateau, the historic district of Praia.
A statue of Diogo Gomes, the Portuguese navigator who is credited with discovering the island of Santiago.
The large statue located next to the Presidential Palace is of Diogo Gomes, a Portuguese navigator who is credited with discovering some of the islands of Cape Verde, along with the Italian navigator António de Noli.
Cidade Velha
Fishing boats line the harbour of Cidade Velha.
I have already mentioned Cidade Velha (Portuguese for “old city”) in the ‘History‘ section, so I’ll keep this section brief.
For anyone interested in the history of Cape Verde, Cidade Velha is a compulsory stop.
A young girl in Cidade Velha.
Conveniently located 10 km west of Praia, Cidade Velha has the distinction of being the first colony established in the tropics.
Laundry day in Cidade Velha.
It served as an important stopover port for many of the famous navigators, such as Christopher Columbus, who were busy discovering and mapping the ‘New World’.
Forte Real de São Filipe
Overlooking Cidade Velha, Forte Real de São Filipe was built to defend the settlement against pirate raids.
Located on a hill, 120 metres above Cidade Velha, Forte Real de São Filipe was constructed between 1587–93, following a raid by the English privateer, Sir Francis Drake.
A view of the gorge created by the Ribeira Grande de Santiago River, from Fortaleza Real de São Filipe.
Access to the fort is either by foot from town, climbing up 120 metres, or from the top of the ridge by car.
Sé Cathedral
The Sé Cathedral, one of the many ruined complexes which comprises the only UNESCO World Heritage Site on Cape Verde.
Overlooking Cidade Velha, the ruined Sé Cathedral had a short-lived existence. It was constructed by the Portuguese between 1556 and 1705. However, in 1712, it was pillaged by pirates and abandoned soon after!
A highlight of Cidade Velha, the ruined Sé Cathedral, part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The church was built in the Mudéjar-style, the first of its kind on African soil.
Mudéjar style, refers to a type of ornamentation and decoration used in the Iberian Christian kingdoms, primarily between the 13th and 16th centuries. It was based on decorative motifs derived from those that had been brought to or developed in Islamic Iberia or Al-Andalus.
A tombstone dated from 1775 inside the former Sé Catedral, Cidade Velha.
Now surrounded by residential buildings, the Sé cathedral was 60 metres long and featured fine stone sculptures and various floor tombs which remain in place.
Nossa Senhora do Rosário Church
The oldest church in the colonial world, the Nossa Senhora do Rosario church, Cidade Velha.
Built in 1495, the beautifully serene Nossa Senhora do Rosario church has the distinction of being the oldest colonial church in the world.
The interior of Nossa Senhora do Rosario church, Cidade Velha.
By comparison, the oldest church in the Americas, the Catedral Primada de América in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic, was constructed between 1512 and 1540. For photos of this cathedral, please see my Dominican Republic Travel Guide.
The interior of Nossa Senhora do Rosario church features Portuguese tiles, known as Azulejos.
The church, whose walls are lined with Portuguese tiles, known as Azulejos, was built in the Manueline Gothic style.
It’s interesting to note that many Africans were prominent members of Cidade Velha society, with pastors of the church often being African rather than European.
Colourful houses in Cidade Velha.
Porto Mosquito
Boats on the beach in the fishing village of Porto Mosquito.
If you continue 11 km further west from Cidade Velha, you’ll reach the end of the cobble-stone road which runs along the south-west coast at the quaint fishing village of Porto Mosquito.
A mural in Porto Mosquito celebrates a visit by Jacques-Yves Cousteau.
In the heart of the village, a mural of Jacques-Yves Cousteau, complete with a beaming smile, celebrates a visit made to Porto Mosquito by the famous French oceanographer, aboard the infamous Calypso, in November of 1948.
Beautiful images of aquatic life can be seen painted on the facades of houses in Porto Mosquito.
The colourful aquatic-themed murals continue throughout the village with no less than 17 houses covered in artwork.
Local fisherman ‘corking’ his wooden fishing boat.
Porto Mosquito is a working fishing village and during my visit I was able to watch the local fishermen ‘corking‘ (i.e. water-sealing) their wooden boats using nothing more than a length of string, a rock (as a hammer) and a knife. Once the string was in place, a sealant was applied.
Fishing boats on the beach at Port Mosquito.
If you have any interest in boats, the black volcanic-sand beach at Porto Mosquito is covered in the most beautifully painted wooden boats.
Pigs, on the beach in Porto Mosquito, feeding on crabs.
Also of interest were a few local pigs who were sniffing around in the sand on the beach. I saw that they were using their keen sense of smell to locate crabs, which they seemed to enjoy eating.
Tarrafal
All visitors stop to photograph the colourful TARRAFAL sign.
The highway from the capital, Praia to the northern city of Tarrafal traverses the length of Santiago island – a distance of just 67 km but a journey time of 1.5 hours.
Why so long? The single-lane highway winds its way up and down several steep mountain passes with lots of slow hair-pin turns.
Before arriving in Tarrafal (population: 6,656), the highway tops out over the lofty Serra Malagueta pass (1064 metres).
Life in the mountains is much different from life on the coast, with much cooler temperatures, heavy fog and the locals rugged up against the cold. Not at all tropical!
Fishing boats on the beach at Tarrafal.
Tarrafal is located on Tarrafal Bay, with the 643-metre high (2,109 ft) Monte Graciosa forming the perfect backdrop. The town is popular with locals, especially on weekends when the whole place is overrun by day-trippers from Praia (where else to go when you live on an island?).
Fishing boats on the beach at Tarrafal.
Tarrafal is an important fishing village and, as with other fishing villages on Santiago, the town beach is lined with colourful, wooden fishing boats.
Located at the top of Santiago Island, Tarrafal is an important fishing village with a growing tourism industry.
The mural painters from Porto Mosquito also seemed to have applied their colourful, magic touch to some of the buildings in Tarrafal.
Boa Vista Island
A young boy in Sal Rei, Boa Vista.
The arid, desert-island of Boa Vista (“Good View” in Portuguese) is the third largest island in Cape Verde, after Santo Antão and Santiago, with an area of 631 square kilometres (243 square miles).
Being the most easterly, it is also the closest island to West Africa, lying just 450 km west of Senegal.
Video:
Taking a taxi from Boa Vista airport to my hotel.
This remote and uninhabited island was discovered by António de Noli (Italian) and Diogo Gomes (Portuguese) in 1460. If you’re visiting Praia, a towering statue of Diogo Gomes can be seen outside the Presidential Palace (see the “Praia” section above).
In 1620, the first settlement was established on the island whose purpose was to exploit local salt deposits. The capital was established on a natural harbour and named Sal Rei (translates as “Salt King”).
Sal Rei
A view of Praia do Estoril, the main beach in Sal Rei, Boa Vista.
As the main town on Boa Vista (population: 5,778), laid-back and relaxed, Sal Rei is the centre of activity and the only real accommodation option for those not booked into a beach resort.
All services on the island (hotels, restaurants, supermarkets, banks, petrol stations, laundries) are located in Sal Rei, whose compact town centre is easily covered on foot.
Note: If you’re driving a car on the island, the only petrol stations are located in Sal Rei. Best to fill up before heading out into the remote countryside (where mobile phone signal is non-existent)!
Many of the locals who inhabit Sal Rei leave town each day on minibuses to work in the three large Riu resorts which are located south of town.
Fishing boats in Sal Rei harbour.
Sal Rei is built on a natural harbour which is a major fishing port. To the south-east, the beautiful, and normally quiet town beach – Praia do Estoril – is lined with hotels and rooftop bars/ restaurants which are the perfect place for watching the sunset over the bay.
My hotel and bar recommendations are included in the ‘Accommodation‘ and ‘Eating Out‘ sections below.
Colourful houses line the streets of Sal Rei, Boa Vista.
Sal Rei has few sights of interest but is full of charm and is a great place to meander.
The dusty, sandy streets are normally a buzz of activity with men playing board games and children playing football or rolling tyres (so very African)!
Young boys rolling tyres in Sal Rei – a typically African scene!
The port is alive each morning with fishermen selling their catch. The fishermen, fishing boats and local children make for wonderful photography opportunities.
Warm smiles greeted me everywhere in Sal Rei.
In the port area, several cafes and restaurants are a magnet for tourists who can relax and watch the activity while eating a meal or drinking a glass of Strela beer.
The very good Caffè del Porto is a popular choice and is covered in the ‘Eating Out‘ section below.
Located a short walk from the municipal market, the Centro de Artes e Cultura (CAC) is the one cultural centre on Boa Vista.
Along with occasional performances, the centre sells locally made crafts and has a restaurant/ cafe which serves very good lunches with a focus on simple Cape Verdean fare at reasonable prices (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more information).
Santa Mónica Beach / Boca Beach
A rough gravel road leads to the sweeping expanse of Santa Monica beach which exists in splendid isolation – but not for much longer!
Located on the isolated south-west coast of Boa Vista, at the end of a long gravel road (follow the sign for ‘Boca Beach‘ from the roundabout on the paved highway), the stunningly beautiful Santa Monica beach appears as a mirage on the horizon.
A photo, a dream or a Mark Rothko painting? The very real Santa Monica beach on Boa Vista!
As you approach from the dusty interior, it’s hard to believe something so beautiful exists. It is dreamlike and I was forced to look again to confirm that what I was seeing was indeed real.
Santa Monica is one of the true wonders of Boa Vista. Boasting more than 11 km of pristine sand, Santa Monica is the longest beach on the island.
Despite receiving many tourists, its huge expanse of sand and never-ending dimensions allows visitors to experience the feeling of isolation in a pristine natural setting.
Santa Monica Beach, Boa Vista Island.
Unfortunately, the developers have already arrived with the first sprawling resort emerging from the surrounding hills.
Boca Beach is tucked away at the southern end of Santa Monica beach.
At the southern end of Santa Monica beach, tiny Boca Beach is home to the only food and beverage option anywhere in this part of Boa Vista.
The tiny shack on the beach is a popular stop for visiting 4WD and quad-bike tours which arrive with guests from the nearby Riu resorts.
Praia De Carquejinha
Praia de Carquejinha, an incredibly beautiful, and almost totally deserted, 8 km long beach on the south coast of Boa Vista.
Located at the bottom of the island, the equally incredible Praia de Carquejinha stretches for 8 km along the south coast.
Truly remote, the only sign of life on this part of the island is the mega-sized Hotel Riu Touareg whose guests have the beach to themselves.
Viana Desert
A view of the Viana desert which lies in the rugged interior of Boa Vista.
Located east of the airport, and the town of Rabil, the Viana desert looks like a set from Lawrence of Arabia. Towering sand dunes, which rise up out of the desert, are framed by a rocky mountain backdrop.
The friendly owner of the nearby Viana Club (see the ‘Eating out‘ section) provides wonderful meals and will help out those silly tourists who manage to get their 4WD bogged in soft sand!
Cape Verde ‘Route 66’
This cobble-stone highway, through the interior of Boa Vista, is considered the “Route 66” of Cape Verde.
Running like a black ribbon for 20 km across the dry interior of Boa Vista, the Cape Verde version of “Route 66” is a fascinating drive.
A cobble-stoned highway, made from local basalt stone, which connects the western town of Rabil with the eastern town of Joao Galego, it’s hard to believe that each stone was laid by hand.
Monte Santo Antonio
The 2nd highest peak on Boa Vista, Monte Santo Antonio rises to an elevation of 379 m (1,243 ft).
As you travel along the only highway along the west coast, it’s hard to miss the impressive Monte Santo Antonio, an ancient volcanic structure which is the 2nd highest peak on Boa Vista, rising up to an elevation of 379 m (1,243 ft). The rocky peak is composed of basalt stone.
Capela de Nossa Senhora de Fátima
Capela de Nossa Senhora de Fátima overlooks the rugged north-west coast of Boa Vista Island.
Located north of Sal Rei, the isolated Capela de Nossa Senhora de Fátima (Chapel of Our Lady of Fatima) is located on a hill, overlooking the rugged north-west coast.
Reached via a rough gravel road, access is for those with a 4WD or quad bike. While the chapel is normally closed, the views over the coast are worth the trip. For those on foot, there is a walking trail along the coast from Sal Rei.
Sal Island
Outdoor art market in Santa Maria, Sal.
The Portuguese first discovered Sal in 1460 but the island wasn’t settled until the salt industry was developed at the end of the 18th century at Pedra de Lume.
Sal (Portuguese for “salt”) is one of the three sandy eastern islands of the Cape Verde archipelago, the other two being nearby Boa Vista, and Maio.
Sal is the main tourist destination in Cape Verde with its airport, Amílcar Cabral International Airport (IATA: SID), serving as the chief international gateway to Cape Verde.
Daily charter flights from Europe make Sal an affordable entry point to this otherwise remote, and expensive to reach destination.
Sal boasts over 350 days of sunshine a year and offers plenty of white sandy beaches in the flat south, while rugged volcanic landscapes dominate the northern end of the island, which is largely unpopulated.
The island is also subject to constant, strong, winds, which create ideal conditions for kite surfing, which is very popular.
Located at the heart of Sal, 2 km north of the airport, Espargos (population: 17,000) is the capital and main commercial centre of the island. It is here where most locals live, travelling south each day to Santa Maria to work in the tourism industry.
The one highway on Sal, national road EN1-SL01, a dual carriageway, connects Espargos with Santa Maria (19 km) in the south of the island. Surrounded on all sides by stunning white sand beaches, Santa Maria is the main tourist hub and home to all of the beach resorts and tourist facilities.
The best way to explore the island is to rent a car which will cost around €50 per day. One day is enough to cover all the sights on Sal – see the ‘Rental Car‘ section below for more details.
Santa Maria
Fishermen in Santa Maria, with the town beach and Hotel Morabeza in the background.
Santa Maria was founded in 1830 as a centre for the production and export of salt. Up to 30,000 tons of salt were shipped from Santa Maria each year. The former ‘Salinas‘ (salt ponds) are located behind the town.
Laying in isolated obscurity for most of its history, the fortunes of Santa Maria changed in 1967 when a Belgium couple, Gaspard Vynckier, a Belgian industrialist and his wife Marguerite Massart (the first female engineer of Belgium), established Cape Verde’s first resort – the HotelMorabeza.
Located on the beach in the heart of Santa Maria, today, the Hotel Morabeza is just one of a string of resorts which line the beach to the west of town.
The streets of Santa Maria are lined with pastel-coloured buildings, al fresco restaurants, cafes and live-music bars. The busiest restaurants in the evening are located directly on the sandy beach (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more information).
Santa Maria beach on Sal Island.
The one sight in Santa Maria is that which originally put Sal on the tourist map – the dazzling, white-sand beach.
Freshly caught fish are sold each morning on Santa Maria pier.
The expanse of white sand is only interrupted by the town pier which is always a hive of activity with local fishermen selling their daily catch and opportunistic souvenir sellers peddling their wares to the usual throng of tourists.
Fish vendors on Santa Maria pier, Sal Island.
Lining Santa Maria beach are restaurants, bars, surf schools, hotels, villas and everything else required by a busy tourist on holiday!
Distances from Santa Maria, Sal
The main street of Santa Maria is a relaxed pedestrian street – Rua 1 de Junho (1st of June street) – which is lined with bustling cafes, bars, restaurants and lots of souvenir shops which are operated by West African migrants.
Kite Beach
Kite surfing is a major tourist drawcard on the ever-windy islands of Sal and Boa Vista.
Each day, as the heat increases on the dry and arid Sal Island, the coastal winds increase, providing ideal conditions for kite surfers. These daily winds occur for about 8 months of the year, drawing hordes of, mainly European, kite surfers.
Kite Surfing is very popular on the ever-breezy Kite beach.
The premier venue for kite surfing is the aptly named Kite Beach which is located on the exposed east coast of Sal, a few kilometres north of Santa Maria.
Kite surfing in perfect conditions at Kite beach, Sal.
One of the finer beaches on Sal, Praia Ponta Preta is lined with all-inclusive resorts.
On the opposite side of the island to Kite Beach, the much calmer, leeward coast of Sal is home to Praia Ponta Preta which is lined with numerous all-inclusive resorts.
Murdeira
The flag of Cape Verde flying on the rocky coast at Murdeira, Sal Island.
Located on the west coast, 10 km north of Santa Maria, the fishing village of Murdeira grew up around the Murdeira Village Resort. The rocky coastline of Murdeira is popular with snorkelers.
Salinas de Pedra de Lume
Salinas de Pedra de Lume.
I would rate the stunning Salinas de Pedra de Lume as one of the highlights of my trip to Cape Verde.
Located inside the crater of an extinct volcano, at an elevation of 39 metres above sea level, an underground reservoir fills a small lake with briny water.
A view of the Salinas de Pedra de Lume, a salt mine located inside a volcanic crater.
Until the discovery of this crater lake in 1796 by Manuel António Martins, Sal was uninhabited, due to its arid environment, lack of natural resources and lack of fresh water.
The colourful, briny waters of the Salinas de Pedra de Lume.
With the discovery of a salt lake, the fortunes of the island were transformed overnight. The first settlement was built around the nearby port of Pedra de Lume, African slaves were imported to work on salt production and the name of the island, originally called Llana (“Flat”) was changed to Sal (“Salt”).
Access to the Salinas de Pedra de Lume is through a tunnel which was built in 1804.
In order to aid the extraction of salt from the crater, a tunnel was carved out of the side wall of the crater. This tunnel today serves as the entry point for the Salinas.
The wooden supports of an abandoned cable-car which was used to transport salt from the crater to the nearby port.
Salt production at Pedra de Lume flourished throughout most of the 19th century, but went into decline after 1887, when Brazil, the main export destination, imposed a ban on imported salt.
Salt produced at the Salinas de Pedra de Lume is used by the beauty and culinary industries.
Away from the beach, the Salinas de Pedra de Lume are the most popular tourist attraction on Sal. Arriving in buses, most visitors experience the sensation of floating in the salty waters of the lake and covering themselves in black volcanic mud.
Salinas de Pedra de Lume.
Almost no one ventures beyond the swimming area which is located at the entrance to the salt ponds. If you venture beyond the swimming area, you’ll have the entire crater to yourself.
I spent about an hour walking around the salt pans, where many incredible photos await!
Pedra de Lume
Located in Pedra de Lume, the Capela de Nossa Senhora was built in 1853 for use by the African salt workers.
Located about 5 km east of Espargos, the abandoned port of Pedra de Lume was established around 1800 as the first settlement on Sal. Pedra de Lume was founded by Manuel António Martins, who started the exploitation of the nearby Salinas (salt ponds) in 1796.
Today, most tourists (who arrive on bus tours), speed through the sleepy port, on their way to the nearby Salinas, which is unfortunate!
The charming port is home to a couple of sights and an excellent lunch restaurant – Restaurante Área Docas (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more details).
A highlight of Pedra De Lume is the small Capela de Nossa Senhora (Lady Compassion Chapel) which sits in isolation, alongside the access road to the Salinas.
Built in 1853, supposedly by African slaves working at the salt mine, the chapel is normally closed and best photographed after lunch when the sun is in front of the chapel, and the surrounding blue sky at its most brilliant.
The slowly decaying, rusted hulks of former salt barges, in a boat graveyard at Pedra de Lume.
Across the road from the chapel, a small boat graveyard is the final resting place for three former salt barges which, ironically, are now slowly decaying due to the salt air!
Terra Boa
Exploring Terra Boa and the volcanic ash plain, which lies in the remote north of Sal Island. At 406 m elevation, Monte Grande is the highest point on Sal.
From Espargos, an unmarked dirt track snakes its way north to the Farol da Fiur (lighthouse) which is located on the remote and rugged north coast.
The landscape in the northern half of Sal is arid and volcanic and home to nobody. Monte Grande, the island’s highest point at 406 m (1,332 ft) dominates the view.
Half way to the lighthouse, you will reach Terra Boa, a flat volcanic ash plain which is famous for its shimmering mirages – impossible to photograph of course!
Ponta Norte (Farol da Fiúra) Lighthouse
The very remote, Ponta Norte (Farol da Fiúra) lighthouse is located at the northern tip of Sal Island.
The northern tip of Sal is home to the unremarkable Ponta Norte (Farol da Fiúra) lighthouse. A modern, fibreglass, tower painted with black and white bands, the lighthouse stands alongside the stone ruins of the original lighthouse.
An ancient lava delta adjacent to the Ponta Norte (Farol da Fiúra) lighthouse on the north coast of Sal Island.
Ponta Norte (North Point) was formed millions of years ago, following a volcanic eruption from Monte Grande, which resulted in a lava flow entering the sea, creating a lava delta which is today known as Ponta Norte. The lighthouse is built on this lava delta.
Note: Prior to reaching the lighthouse, the smooth volcanic-ash track turns into a nasty, rough volcanic-rock road, with plenty of sharp, tyre-damaging, rocks. Care needs to be taken if you are driving a rental car. This part of the road is only suitable for 4WD.
Accommodation
The vast Hotel Riu Touareg is located on Praia de Carquejinha, on the remote south coast of Boa Vista Island.
With 95% of visitors to Cape Verde arriving on pre-paid holiday packages from Europe, almost all arrivals are shepherded directly from the airport (on a Tui bus) to their isolated, all-inclusive, beach resort.
Most holiday-makers arrive on Tui flights from Europe, which is the cheapest way to access Cape Verde. See the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details.
The main hotel operator on Cape Verde is the Riu hotel group which offers six sprawling resorts, with 3 located on the stunning beaches of Boa Vista and three located on the island of Sal.
The largest resort on Sal is the mega-sized Hotel Riu Palace Santa Maria while the Hotel Riu Touareg on Boa Vista is located in stunning isolation on the 8 km long Praia de Carquejinha.
When I arrived on Boa Vista from Brussels with Tui, I was the only passenger not booked on a holiday package. While all other passengers boarded a Tui coach, to be taken to their remote Riu beach resort, I took a taxi into the main town – Sal Rei.
Unfortunately, while there was a small line of taxi drivers waiting at the airport, only one driver managed to get a fare that day, despite the fact that 100 arrivals had just exited the airport!
A huge problem with the package tourism industry is that for countries such as Cape Verde, who host vast numbers of holiday makers, most of the money generated never enters the local economy. With 95% of visitors arriving on (European-owned) charter flights and staying in (European-owned) resorts, almost all the revenue generated remains in Europe.
One of the main benefits from the package tourism industry is local employment. The largest employer on the islands of Boa Vista and Sal is the resorts. Each evening in Sal Rei, you can see fleets of mini-buses returning local resort staff back into town, all wearing their Riu uniforms.
Santiago Island
The colourful rooms at the charming Hotel Santa Maria in Praia pay homage to local artists.
While on Santiago, I stayed in the historic heart of the capital Praia, at the Hotel Santa Maria. Located on the charming main pedestrian street, the hotel offers comfortable, spacious rooms for around €42 (CVE4,600) per night.
The hotel pays homage to famous Cape Verdean musicians such as Cesária Évora with rooms decorated by local artists. I booked my room through booking.com.
Boa Vista Island
The Ouril Hotel Agueda on Boa Vista offers comfortable accommodation overlooking the beach in Sal Rei.
On Boa Vista, I stayed at the Ouril Hotel Agueda which is located across from the main beach in downtown Sal Rei (the only town of consequence on Boa Vista).
The Ouril hotel group operates 4 mid-range hotels in Cape Verde; two on Boa Vista and two on Sal.
My spacious, light-filled room at the Ouril Hotel Agueda on Boa Vista.
Rooms, which are full of light, and offer balconies with views over the beach, cost around €70 (CVE7,700) per night which includes a decent breakfast.
The hotel lies in the heart of Sal-Rei, a short stroll from all restaurants, cafes, bars and shops. So much more interesting than staying at an isolated beach resort!
The hotel also features a rooftop terrace bar which is perfect for watching the sunset over the beach.
Exploring Boa Vista with my Suzuki ‘Jinny’ 4WD from the Ouril Hotel Agueda.
If you wish to explore Boa Vista, the hotel offers car rental, with a Suzuki ‘Jinny’ 4WD costing €60 (CVE 6,600) per day.
One day is enough to explore the entire island and a 4WD is needed on the rough gravel roads. See the ‘Car Rental‘ section below for more details.
My beautifully designed room at the Hotel Sobrado in Santa Maria, Sal.
Almost all accommodation on Sal is located in the tourist town of Santa Maria, which lies at the southern end of the island, 19 km south of the airport.
Large, beachside resorts are the staple offering in Santa Maria, with a few, smaller, hotel options in the downtown area. I stayed at the very good Hotel Sobrado where rooms start from €100 (CVE11,000) per day which includes a daily buffet breakfast. Despite the high room rate, this is one of the cheaper options on an island which is dominated by all-inclusive resorts.
Featuring beautifully designed rooms, the Hotel Sobrado is 5 minute walk from the main beach, shops, cafes, restaurants and bars.
Sucupira market in Praia offers an abundance of locally grown produce.
Cape Verde is known for its delicious cuisine which combines West African and Portuguese influences.
Artwork on the wall of the fish market in Sal-Rei, Boa Vista.
Because the archipelago is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, fish and seafood is integral to Cape Verdean cooking. Every morning, the many fishing villages on the archipeligo are a hive of activity as fisherman sell their catch, with tuna being especially popular.
Each morning on Sal, fisherman sell their catch on the main pier in Santa Maria.
The rich volcanic soils on islands such as Santiago allow for the cultivation of a diverse range of produce. While I was in Praia, local strawberries were abundant and very affordable. A great place to start your appreciation of local produce is Sucupira market in downtown Praia.
A dry version of Cachupa (left) with omelette and salad, served at the Viana Club on Boa Vista.
The national dish of Cape Verde is the very popular Cachupa – a stew which includes mashed maize, onions, green bananas, manioc, sweet potatoes, squash and yams. Cachupa can also be served dry, which I believe tastes much better than the stew version.
One of the best Cachupas I tasted was a dry version which was served at the Viana Club which is located in the remote sand dunes in the interior of Boa Vista.
Beer
The very tasty local beer, Strela which is Creole for “star”.
The local brew on Cape Verde is the very quaffable Strela which is Creole for “star”. Brewed in Praia, Strela has a cult following in Cape Verde which is very much deserved as it tastes so much better than the European beers on offer at double the price!
There is one craft brewery on Sal, Blimund, which is covered in the Sal section below.
Coffee
Colourful sugar packets from Cafés de Cabo Verde.
The Portuguese introduced ‘Coffea‘ to Cape Verde almost 300 years ago. Coffee has been grown in the rich volcanic soils of Fogo Island for centuries.
Today, Cafés de Cabo Verde market a range of local coffee products, all of which are branded with their colourful ‘Creole’ packaging.
Santiago Island
The main pedestrian street of Praia – the Peatonal – is lined with restaurants, cafes and bars.
Restaurants
The main pedestrian street of Praia – the Peatonal – is lined with restaurants, cafes and bars where you can enjoy live local music while having a traditional dinner of Cachupa and Strela.
If you wish to try the local speciality, the Kaza Katxupa is a great place to sample Cachupa and other Cape Verdean dishes. While indoor tables are offering, the best ambience is offered at the outdoor tables, directly on the pedestrian mall, under the stars, on a warm tropical night.
Just along the Peatonal from Kaza Katxupa, the Restaurante Avis offers the best Caipirinha this side of Brazil – and at just €3 a pop! They are one of the only establishments on the Peatonal which offer live, local creole music in the evenings.
Boa Vista Island
Restaurants/ Cafés
This salad tasted as good as it looks! Freshly grilled tuna salad served at Ca’ Baby restaurant in Sal-Rei.
The main town on Boa Vista, Sal-Rei is home to a wealth of dining options and entertainment venues. Thanks to a resident ex-pat population (mainly Italians), Sal-Rei is blessed with some excellent pizza and pasta restaurants.
The pick of the bunch is Ca’ Baby which is operated by an enthusiastic Italian family who offer fresh homemade pasta, the most amazing wood-fired pizzas and truly decadent desserts – you must try their homemade ice-cream!
I managed to eat my way through a large part of their menu but one of my favourite meals was a colourful salad topped with grilled fresh local tuna. Delicious!
Grilled tuna steaks at Caffè del Porto in Sal-Rei, Boa Vista.
Just around the corner from Ca’ Baby, overlooking the port, the always-dependable Caffè del Porto is open when most other places are closed!
Also owned by a European expat, Caffè del Porto offers pasta, pizza and lots of local seafood, which is hauled ashore each morning at the pier opposite.
The popular Coral cafe in Sal-Rei serves tasty Cape Verdean meals, coffee and freshly baked cakes.
The most popular local restaurant/ café in Sal-Rei is Coral, which is located on the main street. The friendly staff at Coral serve freshly made cakes, coffee, and typical Cape Verdean food for lunch, with meals costing no more than €5.
Grilled chicken for lunch at the Centro de Artes e Cultura in Sal-Rei.
Another wonderful local cafe/ restaurant is located around the corner from Coral at the Centre for Arts and Culture. Open for lunch, meals include the most amazing roast chicken and grilled fish, all for €5 or less.
Bars
Enjoying a Strela beer at the rooftop bar at Cambar d’Sol in Sal-Rei.
The flat-roof buildings which line the beach of Sal-Rei are home to many rooftop bars and restaurants, all of which offer great sunset views. My favourite was Cambar d’Sol which overlooks the beach and is adjacent to the Ouril Hotel Agueda.
A typical Cape Verdean lunch served at Cambar d’Sol in Sal-Rei.
The rooftop terrace at Cambar d’Sol offers prime sunset viewing, cold beers and very decent local cuisine.
For a truly local vibe, and great creole-infused music, the Café Kriola offers Cape Verdean cuisine, plenty of Strela beer and local live music most nights. Located on the main street of Sal-Rei, it’s hard to miss this hub of nocturnal activity.
Sal Island
The incredible ‘Tuna Chef’ served at Restaurante Barracuda in Santa Maria, Sal.
Restaurants/ Cafés
Santa Maria
Being the main tourist town on Cape Verde, Santa Maria has no shortage of dining options, many of which line the main beach or are tucked away in the side streets.
Truly divine! A slightly seared tuna steak at Palm Beach restaurant in Santa Maria.
Two of the most popular places, Restaurante Barracuda and Palm Beach are located alongside each other on the main beach in Santa Maria. Both serve amazing food, offering lots of local fish and seafood.
I ate at both places and especially enjoyed their slightly seared tuna steaks. Of the two tuna offerings, my preference was for the ‘Tuna Chef‘ dish which was served at Restaurante Barracuda and included a fruit sauce which elevated the dish to another level.
The best cafe on the main pedestrian street (Rua 1 de Junho), Giramondois an emporium of delight, offering a gelateria and an adjacent bistro.
There’s outdoor seating in front, perfect for snacking on a cone of gelato, waffle, crepe or sipping a coffee while taking in the passing people parade.
Pedra de Lume
An excellent lunch of freshly grilled fish at the very good Restaurante Área Docas in Pedra de Lume.
If you’re in the vicinity of Pedra de Lume at lunchtime, I highly recommend taking time out of your sightseeing schedule to enjoy the fine food at Restaurante Área Docas which overlooks the small beach in Pedra de Lume. The food and service are wonderful as are the deserts and coffee!
Bars
Enjoying a ‘Blimund’ craft beer at Palm Beach restaurant in Santa Maria.
While I enjoyed drinking Strela beer in Cape Verde, I was very happy to discover a new craft beer brewery in Santa Maria. The team at Blimund currently offer 4 different beers which can be sampled at their brewery/ pub – Bodeguinha– and at various restaurants around town.
The most popular bar on the pedestrian mall (Rua 1 de Junho) is Buddy Bar which features live music most evenings.
Visa Requirements
Visa policy of Cape Verde – blue countries enjoy ‘visa-free’ entry while yellow countries can obtain a ‘visa-on-arrival’. Source: Wikipedia.
The visa policy of Cape Verde is wonderfully simple and welcoming to all – except Moroccan passport holders!
Currently, 61 nationalities enjoy visa-free travel to Cape Verde for up to 90 days.
All other nationalities are eligible to receive a Visa-on-Arrival (VOA), provided they arrive at either Boa Vista, Sal, São Vicente or Santiago international airports.
As an Australian passport holder, I received a 30-day ‘VOA’ in 5 minutes, without fuss, which cost me €35. The entire process was conducted by a friendly immigration officer at Boa Vista International airport.
A Tui plane on the tarmac at Amílcar Cabral International Airport, also known as Sal International Airport, the main international gateway to Cape Verde.
Air
Frequent, affordable flights from Europe to both Boa Vista and Sal are offered by the British-German Tui group who operate flights from Belgium, Netherlands, UKand Germany.
Tui also operates occasional flights from the Netherlands to Praia International airport and São VicenteInternational airport.
I flew from Brussels with the Belgium arm of Tui – Tuifly.be – who had a one-way fare available from Brussels to Sal for €99 – which was about the same price which I paid for the 20-minute inter-island flight from Praia to Sal!
Tui offers the best-value option for reaching this remote island nation.
Departure board at Amílcar Cabral International Airport (Sal International Airport).
International Airports
There are four international airports serving Cape Verde with Sal International airport being the main gateway.
Unmetered taxis are available at all airports, with those on Boa Vista and Santiago charging a flat fare of €10 for the short trip to/ from downtown and the airport, while taxis on Sal charge €15 for trips to/ from the airport since the distance from Santa Maria is much longer.
Sea
Prior to the Covid-19 pandemic, occasional cruise ships called at Cape Verde. These are currently suspended!
Getting Around
The terminal at Praia’s Nelson Mandela International Airport.
Most inter-island transportation in Cape Verde is done by air, although flights are very limited and expensive. There are more regular flights between the major islands (Santiago, Sal and São Vicente), with less frequent flights to the other islands.
Boat transportation is available, though not widely used nor dependable. On the more populated Santiago Island, public bus transport runs periodically and taxis are common. On less populated islands minibuses (Aluguers) and/or taxis are the only option.
Air
A TICV ATR-72 (one of two in service) at Praia Nelson Mandela International Airport (RAI).
Domestic flights in Cape Verde are operated by Transportes Interilhas de Cabo Verde (TICV), which is 70% owned by BestFly World Wide and 30% owned by the government of Cape Verde.
There are many issues with inter-island flights which you should be aware of when planning any island hopping, including ticket prices, flight schedules and seat availability.
My boarding pass from Boa Vista to Praia with TICV.
Ticket Prices
TICV operate in a monopoly environment and, as can be expected from a monopoly operator, ticket prices are not cheap!
I flew from Boa Vista to Praia and Praia to Sal, with each 20-minute flight costing me almost €100! Ouch!
This is even more upsetting when you consider that Tui offers specials from Europe to Cape Verde for the same price!
Flight Schedules
As for flight frequency, you might expect that on an island nation, where flying is the only available means of travel between most islands, that TICV would be operating a daily shuttle service between all islands.
This is not the case – flight schedules are very limited!
The TICV fleet consists of just 3 ATR-72 prop planes with one in storage and two in active service. Flights are scare – with just two flights per week connecting Boa Vista to Praia.
You can view the weekly flight schedule on the Horários page of the Bestfly website.
While no route map currently exists, flights operate on a ‘wheel and spoke‘ model with all flights departing from the hub airport – Praia – which lies at the centre of the wheel. Flights radiate out from Praia, along the spokes, to individual islands – then return back to Praia.
There are a few flights which connect Praia to Sal then continue onto one other island (either São Vicente or São Nicolau) before returning back to Praia.
Due to the current setup, if you wish to travel from Boa Vista to neighbouring Sal (normally a short boat trip – if ferries were available), you will need to connect through Praia. Connection times in Praia, depending on seat availability, can be days rather than hours!
Seat Availability
With just two 70-seater ATR72’s in service, there are a very limited number of seats available on domestic flights. Once you factor in the scarcity of flights, it’s not surprising that flights sell out weeks in advance.
As I learnt from personal experience on the ground, Cape Verde isn’t a destination for planning any last-minute follies! You should book flights as far in advance as possible!
Inter-island ferries are operated by CV Interilhas with services being unreliable due to many cancellations as a result of bad weather, mechanical issues etc.
Routes / Schedules and Tariffsare posted on the CV Interilhas website and tickets can be purchased online, although only Visa card is accepted. Good luck!
Public Transport
A Toyota Hilux Aluguer on Boa Vista.
On all islands, you will find Aluguers (literally: rental) which are either minibuses or Toyota ‘Hilux’ pickup trucks.
While minibuses connect most towns and cost just a few euros, the Hilux option is popular with tourists who rent them to tour the rugged landscapes of islands such as Boa Vista and Sal.
The only municipal buses on Cape Verde operate in the capital, Praia.
Taxi
Taxis, such as this one on Boa Vista, charge €10 for trips to/ from the airport.
Unmetered taxis are available on most islands, with those on Boa Vista and Santiago charging a flat fare of €10 for the short trip to/ from the airport.
Taxis on Sal charge €15 for trips to/ from the airport since the distance from Santa Maria is much longer.
Rental Car
The best way to maximise your time on the islands is to rent a car. If renting on either Boa Vista or Sal, you should ensure you rent a 4WD as many attractions lie at the end of rugged gravel roads.
A normal, 2WD, car will suffice on Santiago which is covered by paved (or cobble-stone) roads.
Santiago Island
My rental car in the fishing villager of Porto Mosquito on Santiago.
While on Santiago, I rented a car for €50 (CVE5,500) per day through Friendship Tours.
I would certainly recommend this company. They delivered a car to my hotel in the morning and only required a payment of €50 (CVE5,500) cash per day!
License plates on Cape Verde are prefixed with the two-letter island name of the place of registration, with ‘ST’ representing Santiago.
No fuss, no hefty security deposit! Very smooth and easy.
Boa Vista Island
The newly paved highway on the west coast of Boa Vista.
While on Boa Vista, I rented a Suzuki ‘Jinny’ 4WD through my hotel – Ouril Hotel Agueda. If you wish to fully explore Boa Vista, you will need a 4WD.
The daily rental rate was €60 (CVE 6,600) with a €200 (CVE 20,000) security deposit required, which can only be paid in cash.
The interior roads on Boa Vista are made from cobble stones, which stretch to the horizon and beyond.
Sal Island
Exploring rugged Sal Island in my rental car.
On Sal, I rented a car through Caetano Car Rental who are located at the Enacol service station in Santa Maria.
The company has a variety of cars which range in price from €35 – €80 (CVE3,800 – CVE8,800) per day. They also require a cash security deposit of €200 (CVE 20,000).
That’s the end of my travel guide for Cape Verde.
If you have any comments or questions, please do not hesitate to contact me using the comments field below.
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This is a Baarle Hertog / Baarle Nassau Travel Guide from taste2travel.
Date Visited: February 2021
Introduction
Imagine a scenario whereby you wake up in the morning in your bedroom, which is in Belgium; you walk across the hallway to the bathroom, which is in the Netherlands, to take a shower; you then proceed downstairs to the kitchen, which is Belgium, and prepare breakfast; after which you adjourn to the living room, which is in the Netherlands, to finally relax.
Baarle Nassau (NL) and Baarle Hertog (B) is home to almost half the world’s enclaves.
Sound bizarre?
This is the daily reality faced by some of the residents of Baarle-Hertog / Baarle-Nassau, a small town near the Dutch/ Belgium border which is home to almost half the enclaves on planet Earth.
Souvenir magnets at the Baarle tourist office feature common sights seen in Baarle, from border markers to house numbers.
If, like me, you have an interest in geographical anomalies, a visit to ‘Baarle‘ should be high on your travel bucket list. It really is fascinating!
The former Baarle town hall which was shared between the Dutch and Belgium governments.
Tucked away in a quiet corner of the Netherlands, just across the border from Belgium, lies the unassuming town of Baarle-Nassau/ Baarle Hertog, a typical hamlet which you could easily pass through without noticing anything odd.
The new Belgium Town Hall which sits on the border.
However, there is something peculiar about Baarle, something which draws throngs of camera-toting tourists.
Baarle is a twin town which lies within both the Netherlands (Baarle Nassau) and Belgium (Baarle Hertog).
A line on the road in downtown Baarle indicates the meandering border line.
This quiet border town, which covers an area of just 7.48 square kilometres (2.89 square miles), is the site of possibly the most complicated frontier in the world, a place where a map of the border looks more like a complex mosaic!
The Baarle Cultural Centre, on Pastoor de Katerstraat, is divided between two countries.
Contained within Baarle are no fewer than 22 Belgium enclaves. To confuse matters even further, there are seven Dutch exclaves within Baarle-Hertog (i.e. parcels of Dutch land separated from the Netherlands by Belgium territory).
A map of the enclaves and exclaves of Baarle. Source: Wikipedia
This rather confusing map of Baarle shows the parcels of land which belong to Belgium (dark yellow) and the parcels of Dutch land (light yellow).
The Belgium territories (all prefixed with an ‘H’ for Hertog) are enclaves as they are completely surrounded by the Dutch province of Brabant, while the small parcels of Dutch territories (all prefixed with an ‘N’ for Nassau), completely enclosed by Belgium territory, are exclaves.
As can be observed on the map, there are seven Dutch exclaves contained inside of H1 and H8 (these are numbered N1-7).
Enclaves and Exclaves Explained!
Enclave/ Exclave Diagram.
An enclave is a territory that is entirely surrounded by the territory of one other state. In this case, Baarle-Hertog (Belgium) is enclaved by the Netherlands as it’s surrounded entirely by the Dutch province of Brabant. In the diagram above, ‘C’ is an enclave of ‘A’.
An example of two enclave nations are San Marino and the Vatican City, both of which are completely surrounded by Italy.
An exclave(also known as a counter-enclave) is a portion of a state geographically separated from the main part by surrounding alien territory. In the diagram above, ‘C’ is an exclave of ‘B’.
There are seven Dutch exclaves in Baarle.
Baarle –Theenclave champion!
Home to almost half of the world’s enclaves, Baarle is the ‘Enclave Champion’.
There are 64 enclaves in the world, with Baarle being home to almost half of them. This makes Baarle the Enclave champion!
History
On display at the tourist information centre, a satellite image of Baarle indicates the different enclaves and exclaves.
How was this confusion created?
The history of this bizarre geographical phenomenon goes back to the Middle Ages, when properties were divided up between aristocratic families – well before neat, modern borders were created!
The genesis for today’s enclave’s dates back to 1198 when Duke Hendrik I of Brabant (ancestral lands now in the Netherlands) leased land in Baarle to his neighbour, Godfried II of Schoten, the Lord of Breda (ancestral lands now in Belgium).
At the time, overlords generated income from taxes levied on productive land (i.e. farmed land). The Duke of Brabant kept the income-generating farmland for himself and leased the remaining land to the Lord of Breda. These lands were in and around Baarle and therefore the basis for the enclaves.
Life in Baarle continued without any issue until 1830, the year Belgium gained independence.
A few years later, in 1843, a formal border was determined between Belgium and the Netherlands. Surveyors worked their way, step by step, from the coast of the North Sea to the border of the German states.
At the time, the complex border mosaic in Baarle was placed in the ‘too-hard-basket‘ and left for another time.
As the border was marked out, markers were placed along the way. Marker number 214 was the last marker before Baarle. A gap of 52 km was left, to be determined once the mosaic of borders could be clearly understood, with marker number 215 marking the continuation of the border.
Border marker #214 and 215, commemorates the completion of the border in Baarle.
So difficult was the task of determining the border in Baarle that it wasn’t until 1974 that a map of the border was created and the border between the two countries was finalised. This event is commemorated by a marker in downtown Baarle.
A plaque on the main square, and on the border, commemorates the finalisation of the frontier in Baarle.
Enclave Benefits
This geographical oddity has created some interesting situations throughout history.
During the First World War, although the German Imperial Army occupied Belgium, it could not occupy Baarle-Hertog since it would have to cross Dutch territory, which the Dutch government wouldn’t allow. Thus, Baarle-Hertog became a place where refugees could safely stay.
More recently, during the Covid-19 pandemic, the Belgium government enacted much tougher restrictions than the Netherlands government. While businesses in Belgium endured long periods of lockdown, and remained shut, Dutch businesses could operate freely. For those in Baarle, it simply meant crossing the street to access an open restaurant or bar.
Building Regulation
The owner of this apartment building skirted a Dutch building restriction by installing a second front door on the Belgian side of the border.
While most houses in Baarle lie within one country, a few truly odd properties lie in two countries!
Such properties are indicated by two completely different house numbers, as can be seen on the property featured above which is located on Desirée Geeraertstraat at #7 (Netherlands) and #2 (Belgium).
The determination for deciding in which country a property is located is based on the location of the front door. In some cases, an extra front door has been added, most often on the Belgium side of the border, for good reason!
Located at Chaamseweg 10, this apartment building is known as the ‘Front door swap’ house.
Building permits and regulations are much more relaxed in Belgium than in the Netherlands. Landlords, who own a property located on a border line, find it much easier to renovate or change their property by dealing with the Belgium authorities!
By installing a front door on the Belgium side of their property, they can circumvent the stricter Dutch controls.
An example of this can be seen at Chaamseweg #10, where the landlord installed an extra door on the Belgium side of the border, allowing him to make changes to his property which wouldn’t have been approved by the Dutch authorities.
Financial Loopholes
The Hoogbraak Business Centre was once home to ‘Femisbank’.
Having an international border pass through a single building has also allowed some creative types to take advantage of financial loopholes.
A view of the border passing through the branch of the former Femisbank.
One such case was with Femisbank whose Baarle branch was located inside the Hoogbraak Business Centre, which straddles the border.
Whenever tax authorities from one country would arrive to view a clients’ financial records, those records would already have been moved across the room into the other country, allowing staff to state that the requested tax records weren’t available.
Needless to say, Femisbank lost its license to operate!
Cheaper Fuel
Other benefits of enclave living extend to cheaper fuel. Interestingly, there are no petrol stations in the Dutch parts of Baarle, but many in the Belgium areas.
As of February 2022, 1L of unleaded fuel in Belgium cost €1.70 while in the Netherlands, the same litre cost €2.10.
The many Belgium petrol stations in Baarle do a brisk trade with Dutch cars lined up along the roadside waiting for their turn at the pump.
Fireworks
One of many firework shops in Baarle-Hertog.
Known as Loots in Dutch, the sale and carriage of fireworks is illegal in the Netherlands, except at New Years. Such restrictions don’t apply in Belgium!
Baarle is famous for its fireworks shops, where local Belgium entrepreneurs sell fireworks all year long to Dutch consumers who normally cannot buy them.
Location
5111 Baarle-Nassau, Netherlands
Located in a very busy corner of Europe, Baarle is easily reached from either Belgium or the Netherlands.
Reaching Baarle is easily done from either Belgium or the Netherlands.
I based myself in Antwerp, from which Baarle is an easy (50 km) daytrip.
If using public transport from Antwerp, you can reach Baarle by taking one of the frequent fast trains to Turnhout then bus #460 which leaves from outside Turnhout train station.
Buses run once per hour to Baarle with a journey time of 20 minutes. Payment can be made onboard by tapping your credit card on the ticket reader.
Sightseeing
Throughout Baarle, there are different markers on the ground which are used to indicate the meandering border.
In Baarle, white crosses are used to indicate borderlines on footpaths along with a ‘B’ or ‘NL’.
White crosses are used to indicate borderlines on footpaths, along with a ‘B’ (Belgium) or ‘NL’ (Netherlands).
While white crosses indicate borders on footpaths, round, silver discs indicate borderlines on roadways.
While silver discs are used to indicate borderlines on roadways.
Baarle is a town where a Dutch resident could exit their house, walk across the street and be in Belgium, walk a hundred metres further to find themselves back in the Netherlands and then down to the end of the street to be back in Belgium again.
The tourist office in downtown Baarle flies the flags of Belgium and the Netherlands.
The best place to start your exploration is at the Baarle Tourist Information centre which is located at Singel #1 in the heart of town.
Walking tour map supplied by the Baarle Tourist Information centre.
The tourist office produces a ‘Welcome in Baarle‘ brochure which includes a useful walking tour map. The walk, which is a flat, 5km stroll, covers most of the sights of interest.
Markers on the ground indicate the route of the walking tour in Baarle.
It’s impossible to get lost as silver markers indicate the walking route!
While walking around Baarle, helpful markers on each light pole indicate which country you are in.
As you follow the walking trail, indicators on each light pole advise in which country you are presently located. This can change just by crossing the street.
House numbers in Baarle-Hertog feature Belgium flags.
Another clue as to which country you are in is provided by the house numbers, all of which feature the national colours of their country.
House numbers in Baarle-Nassau feature the Dutch colours.
For those on bicycles, signs indicate the ‘Enclaveroute‘ which takes you beyond town, into the surrounding countryside, where more enclaves await.
The ‘Enclaveroute’ allows you to visit all of the sights of Baarle by bicycle.
One of the highlights of Baarle is the house which is located at Loveren #19. This quaint brick home is the poster-child for Baarle tourism, with the border running up to the front door, dividing the house in two.
Divided between two countries, this house at Loveren #19 is the most photographed site in Baarle.
The house is located inside enclave H7, the smallest enclave in the world!
How big is H7? It’s large enough to contain one and a half houses and part of their backyards!
The divided house at Loveren #19 has two house numbers – Dutch (#19) and Belgium (#2).
Eating Out
A border marker on the main square, outside ‘Den Engel’ brasserie.
There are a cluster of restaurants and cafes on the main square around the tourist office, with the popular Den Engel located on the Dutch side of the border. Bus #460 from Turnhout stops on the square.
That’s the end of my travel guide for Baarle Hertog-Nassau.
I look forward to hearing your feedback regarding this guide.
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Welcome to taste2travel!
My name is Darren McLean, I’m the owner of this website and I love travel trivia and I certainly enjoy creating travel quizzes.
As of today (August 2024), there are 76 different quizzes on taste2travel.
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You’ll find a range of quizzes covering such topics as:
Currencies
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World Museums
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