Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide

This is an Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide from taste2travel.

Date Visited: August 2022

Introduction

Unfortunately, for the past few decades, Iraq has been in the news headlines for all the wrong reasons. However, peace and stability have been the norm, for many years, in the autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan.

I first got the idea to visit Iraqi Kurdistan while having breakfast in a hotel in Singapore in 2019. I was sat next to a Kurdish father and daughter who had fled from Iraqi Kurdistan, to the safety of Australia, to avoid persecution during the rule of Saddam Hussein.

They were returning to Australia following a visit to see family and friends in Iraqi Kurdistan. They assured me that the region was safe to visit and that I would receive a warm welcome from the Kurds!

How right they were!

Of all the places I have visited on planet Earth, Iraqi was country/ territory # 213, I can say that the Kurds are some of the friendliest people I have every had the pleasure to spend time with.

Every day, I was overwhelmed by Kurdish hospitality. Whether paying for a glass of tea, a taxi ride or even a meal – payment was often refused as I was a guest in the land of the Kurds.

The staff at my hotel in Erbil – the wonderful Erbil View Hotel – assured me that the hotel was my home away from home. They even surprised me by getting my crumpled jacket dry-cleaned! Truly amazing hospitality!

For those who wish to visit Iraq, but are not keen on venturing into federal Iraq (which will be covered in my next Travel Guide), Iraqi Kurdistan offers a ‘lite’ version of Iraq. Security and safety are not an issue here.

Whereas there is still a heavy military presence on the streets of federal Iraq, you will see little military in Iraqi Kurdistan. If you are comfortable travelling in places like Jordan, Turkey or Egypt, you’ll feel totally comfortable travelling in Iraqi Kurdistan.

Crime is non-existent in Iraqi Kurdistan! Never did I feel unsafe or threatened!

Money changers at Erbil and Sulaimaniyah souks sit on the footpath with glass cabinets full of wads of currency, including bundles of US$100 notes. Never is crime a concern in this part of the world!

As was explained to me by a Kurd, over one of many glasses of sweet tea, you could leave your car unlocked, on the street, all night and no one will touch it!

Whenever shopkeepers inside the souk leave their shop for lunch or prayer, they never lock-up but simply place an object in the doorway to indicate that the shop is temporarily closed. No one would ever think of entering the shop!

As an autonomous region, Iraqi Kurdistan has its own government – the Kurdistan Regional Government (KRG) and has its own immigration policy, which is separate to that of Iraq.

If you enter Iraqi Kurdistan, you will receive a visa which is only valid for travel inside Iraqi Kurdistan. You cannot enter federal Iraq using this visa.

You must also be careful when taking long distance taxis in Kurdistan as some of them transit through federal Iraq – which you cannot do if you are travelling on a Kurdistan visa.

An Iraqi visa however, is valid for travel everywhere inside Iraq – including Iraqi Kurdistan. If you plan to travel to both Iraq and Iraqi Kurdistan, it makes sense to first enter through federal Iraq where you will only need to purchase one visa (US$77), rather than two! More on this in the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section below.

Location

Erbil, Iraq

 

Iraqi Kurdistan, also known as Southern Kurdistan, refers to the Kurdish-populated region of northern Iraq.

An autonomous region, which functions separately to ‘Federal’ Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan is comprised of the four governorates of Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, Duhok and Halabja.

Located in Western Asia, Iraqi Kurdistan is one of the four parts of the trans-national “Kurdistan”, which also includes Northern Kurdistan in south-eastern Turkey, Western Kurdistan in northern Syria and Eastern Kurdistan in north-western Iran.

People

Iraqi Kurdistan is home to approximately six million Kurds, who represent 15% of the total population of Iraq (40,000,000).

Nearly all Iraqi Kurds consider themselves Sunni Muslims, with 98% of Kurds in Iraq identifying themselves as Sunnis and only 2% identifying themselves as Shias.

Apart from the Kurds living in Iraqi Kurdistan, around 300,000 Kurds live in the Iraqi capital Baghdad – 50,000 in the city of Mosul and around 100,000 elsewhere in Federal Iraq.

The total population of greater Kurdistan is estimated to be between 25 and 35 million, making the Kurds the fourth-largest ethnic group in the Middle East.

The Iraqi Kurds have historically enjoyed more national rights than Kurds living in neighbouring states.

Meanwhile, across the border in Turkey, the Turkish government continues a 40+ year battle against the Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK), a rebel group who are fighting for an independent Kurdistan state within Turkey.

One security threat to Iraqi Kurdistan today comes from the Turkish military, who occasionally launch attacks against supposed PKK bases which are located inside Iraqi Kurdistan.

Kurdish Cinema

Kurdish arthouse cinema is centred around the Cinema Salim in Sulaimaniyah (Slemani).

The driving force behind Kurdish films, and documentaries, is the wonderful Lina Raza, an Iraqi Kurd who maintains residences in Sulaimaniyah, London and Stockholm.

When she’s not treading the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival, Lina is the Program Director of the annual Slemani International Film Festival which showcases both World and Kurdish cinema.

While Cannes awards its Palme d’Or (“Golden Palm”), the Slemani festival awards a Golden Pine Cone.

If you’re interested in catching the latest Kurdish arthouse offerings, movies are screened every day at Cinema Salim.

History

Ancient Iraq 

During ancient times, lands that now constitute Iraq were known as Mesopotamia (“Land Between the Rivers”), a region whose extensive alluvial plains gave rise to some of the world’s earliest civilizations and empires since the 6th millennium BC.

The “Cradle of Civilisation” is a common term for the area comprising modern Iraq and was the birthplace of many valuable inventions and discoveries, including writing system, mathematics, time, calendar, astrology and law code.

The capital of Iraqi Kurdistan, Erbil, is centred around Erbil Citadel which has been the sight of settlement for more than 6,000 years.

US-led Invasion

Pro-Independence Vote

On the 25th of September 2017, Iraqi Kurds voted overwhelmingly (92.73%) for independence in a non-binding referendum.

This angered Baghdad, which moved to reassert its authority by recaptured territory held by the Kurds outside their autonomous region. It also seized control of oilfields that are the lifeblood of the Kurdish economy and imposed an air blockade that held for six months.

Flag

The flag of Kurdistan was created by the Society for the Rise of Kurdistan in 1920. The Kurdish flag is the most important symbol of Kurdish identity and, since it was first hoisted in 1946, has become a symbol of the national identity of the Kurds.

The design of the flag includes:

• A red field which symbolises ‘the blood of the martyrs and the continued struggle for freedom and dignity‘.
• A white field which symbolises ‘peace and equality‘.
• A green field which symbolises ‘the beauty and landscapes of Kurdistan‘.

Superimposed over the top of the three bands is a golden, 21-ray sun, a symbol which has been used by Kurds since antiquity. The number ’21’ is a venerated number by the Kurds, representing rebirth/ renaissance in the ancient and native Kurdish religion of Yazdanism.

Currency

The official currency of Iraqi Kurdistan is the Iraqi dinar (IQD).

Current bank notes, which are issued by the Central Bank of Iraq, include IQD 250; 500; 1,000; 5,000; 10,000; 25,000 – and the rarely seen 50,000.

If you’re interested in getting your hands on a brand-new IQD 50,000 note, I often received these from Bank of Baghdad ATMs.

The Iraqi dinar isn’t a free-floating currency, with the exchange rate set by the Iraqi government at US$1 = IQD 1,460. This exchange rate is factored into government budgets until at least 2026.

Exchange Rates

The current exchange rate of the Iraqi dinar against US $100 and €100 are:

USD $100 = IQD 146,000

EUR €100 = IQD 149,300

Saddam Hussein Dinars

Prior to the 1st Gulf War in 1990, high quality Iraqi dinar bank notes were printed in the United Kingdom by Thomas De La Rue.

Following the introduction of United Nations sanctions after the war, Iraq was no longer able to place currency orders with Thomas De La Rue.

A new series of bank notes were printed locally, which featured a portrait of Saddam Hussein. Known as “Saddam dinars”, the notes were of inferior quality, compared to the former UK-made bank notes, which then become known as “Swiss dinars”.

Due to prolonged international sanctions on Iraq, along with excessive government currency printing, the Saddam dinar quickly became worthless.

After Saddam Hussein was deposed in the 2003 invasion of Iraq, the Iraqi government printed more Saddam dinar notes as a stopgap measure to maintain the money supply until a new currency could be introduced.

The market had become flooded with worthless Saddam dinars. 

Between 2003 and 2004, the Coalition Provisional Authority issued new Iraqi dinar notes, which were printed, once again, by Thomas De La Rue in the UK.

Trillions of new dinars were shipped to Iraq and exchanged for the old Saddam dinar notes at par value.

Today, wads of Saddam Hussein dinar notes can be found at money changers at Erbil and Sulaimaniyah souks and are popular souvenirs.

Each note can be purchased for IQD 1,000 (USD$0.68), making them more valuable as a souvenir than what they were when in circulation.

Banking Services

Credit Cards

Iraqi Kurdistan is a cash society. Credit cards are accepted almost nowhere!

While shopping malls in Erbil and Sulaimaniyah feature prominent international brands like Blackberry, GEOX, Samsonite, Merrell, DKNY, Armani, Levi’s and Mango, none of these stores accept credit cards. All payments are to be made in cash!

The only place I was able to use my credit card in Iraqi Kurdistan was at the Erbil View Hotel, my wonderful hotel in Erbil.

ATMs

You will never find an ATM on the street in Iraqi Kurdistan. ATMs are only found inside the larger shopping malls and at the two international airports – Erbil and Sulaimaniyah.

In all malls, the ATMs are hidden away in an obscure corner – finding them is like a treasure hunt!

Bank branches are also non-existent, with informal money changers providing money exchange services on the street.

I did find a branch of the Kurdistan International Bank inside the Family mall in Erbil, although their ATM’s do not accept foreign credit cards.

Not all banks are on the international network. The two banks which I found to be most reliable, and whose ATM’s accept international credit cards (i.e. Mastercard and Visa), are the Bank of Baghdad and Cihan Bank.

ATM’s can be found inside the Family Mall in Erbil and Sulaimaniyah, and inside most other large malls.

Sightseeing

Erbil

Home to 1.5 million friendly souls, Erbil is the capital and largest city of Iraqi Kurdistan. The city is centred around the ancient Erbil Citadel which has been occupied for more than 6,000 years!

Alongside the citadel are the Ottoman-era Erbil souk, the centre of commercial activity and the popular Fountains of Shar Park which comes to life around sunset.

Erbil Citadel

Located at the heart of Erbil city, Erbil Citadel is located atop an ancient tell, or occupied mound, which has been the scene of continuous settlement for more than 6,000 years. Archaeologists believe that layers of history lay buried beneath the tell.

The earliest evidence for occupation of the citadel mound dates to the 5th millennium BC, and possibly earlier. The citadel gained particular importance during the Neo-Assyrian period.

Erbil Citadel thrived until the Mongols arrived in 1258 CE. They captured the citadel and sacked the city, sending it into decline.

The citadel, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, has, unfortunately, been reconstructed in many places.

This reconstruction is currently ongoing, which seems to go against the rules for a World Heritage Site. The government plans to have 50 families live in the citadel once it is renovated.

The citadel is home to the Kurdish Textile Museum which shouldn’t be missed. Also nearby is the Erbil Stones and Gemstones Museum which features both local and international gemstones.

Opening Times:

Entrance to the citadel, which is free of charge, is possible via two ramps between the hours of 9 am and 7 pm.

Kurdish Textile Museum

Located inside a renovated mansion at Erbil Citadel, the Kurdish Textile Museum displays a collection of Kurdish textiles, including a dazzling array of carpets.

As a keen collector of oriental carpets, I found the displays here to be fascinating, especially the collection of truly unique felt carpets.

The carpets are from a private collection, which is owned by a Kurdish family, who have sourced much material from Iranian Kurdistan, since carpet production is limited in Iraqi Kurdistan.

Opening Times: The Kurdish Textile Museum is open every day, except Friday, between 9 am and 6 pm. Entrance costs IQD1,000.

Erbil Stones and Gemstones Museum

Located across from the Kurdish Textile Museum, the Erbil Stones & Gemstones Museum is literally the ‘jewel’ of Erbil Citadel.

This small museum is home to a collection of stones and gemstones which have been found in Kurdistan and further afield. The air-conditioned display rooms offer a wonderful respite from the blistering heat of Erbil.

Opening Times: Like the adjacent Kurdish Textile Museum, the Erbil Stones and Gemstones Museum is open every day, except Friday, between 9 am and 6 pm. Entrance costs IQD1,000.

Erbil Souk

Lying in the shadow of Erbil Citadel, the sprawling Erbil Souk has been the commercial heart of Erbil for centuries. The current, charming bizarre, dates from the more recent Ottoman era.

Tucked away in the rabbit-warren of cool, covered laneways are shops selling absolutely everything. The souk is open all day and it a great place to escape the blistering midday heat.

Especially popular are shops which sell mountains of freshly made Turkish Delight (lokum), dried fruits, nuts, local goat cheese, honey, homemade yoghurts and much more.

Due to the charm, variety and reasonable prices found at both Erbil and Sulaimaniyah souks, the modern malls which have recently been built, are normally deserted, with local shoppers clearly preferring to shop at the more traditional souk.

While the souk is crammed with stores selling modern appliances and gadgets, there are areas where traditional crafts, such as woodworking, and goldsmithing are still practiced.

The gold souk is lined with many shops, whose dazzling window displays entice keen shoppers.

Another large section of the souk includes the textile section where you can find woman shopping for clothes and head dresses.

Fountains of Shar Park

The small, but hugely popular, Fountains of Shar Park lie in the shadow of Erbil Citadel and across the road from the bustling souk.

Normally quiet during the day, the fountains are turned on around 5 pm, in time for the masses who arrive prior to sunset, to appreciate the cool breezes which are generated by the fountains.

As the sun sets, the park becomes a veritable carnival, complete with balloon sellers, fairy-floss sellers and coffee vendors, who pour coffee from large brass pots which are strapped to their backs.

Jalil Khayat Mosque

A definite highlight of Erbil is the truly dazzling Jalil Khayat Mosque, which was completed in 2007.

A Sunni Islamic Mosque, it was begun by Jalil Khayat who died in 2005. The mosque was completed two years later by his sons in memory of their father.

With a jaw-droppingly beautiful interior, the mosque’s style resembles the Mosque of Muhammad Ali in Cairo and the Blue Mosque in Istanbul.

Widely regarded as having one of the most beautiful interiors of any mosque, the Jalil Khayat Mosque is 15,000 square metres (160,000 square ft) and holds up to 2,000 people.

Access:

The entire mosque complex is enclosed inside a high, ornate, cast-iron fence. When I visited, all gates were locked and there wasn’t a soul in sight.

I found a small entrance gate on the main street (opposite the mall) which was open. Inside this gate is a small air-conditioned office which is where the caretaker can be found. He opened the mosque for me so I could take photos. Normally the mosque is only open at prayer times.

This was a highlight of Erbil! 

Mudhafaria Minaret

Located in Minaret Park, the 36-metre high Mudhafaria Minaret dates from the late 12th century AD. It features an octagonal base decorated with two tiers of niches, which is separated from the main shaft by a small balcony.

Sulaymaniyah

Known as Sulaymaniyah, Slemani, Suli, Sulaimaniyah and even Sulaimani, the 2nd largest city of Iraqi Kurdistan (population: 740,000) is a charming and inviting place.

If you have to give preference to either Erbil or Sulaymaniyah, I would spend more time in Sulaymaniyah. Whenever you mention Suli to Iraqi Kurds, they will beam with pride and tell you about their ‘city of learning and culture’.

While Erbil is a big, bustling capital, and is located on a very hot, desert plain, Sulaimaniyah is a leafy, green city, where large, green parks, provide breathing space and the surrounding mountains provide the occasional cool breeze.

Sulaymaniyah is home to the University of Sulaimani, one of the most important scientific and cultural institutions in Iraqi Kurdistan. The American University in Iraq also has its campus in Sulaimaniyah.

This university town is home to a sizeable student population, who infuse the city with a certain, funky flair. It has a very different ambiance from Erbil.

Slemani is also home to a budding Kurdish arthouse cinema scene – please refer to the previous ‘Kurdish Cinema‘ section for more.

Cinema Selim, which is ground zero for Kurdish cinema, plays daily arthouse features. The cinema also serves as the venue for the annual Slemani International Film Festival.

In between screenings, the cinema cafe is a great place to relax, serving very good barista-made coffee.

Sulaimaniyah is home to one of two international airports in Iraqi Kurdistan – see the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details.  Frequent shared taxis connect Sulaimaniyah with Erbil and most other cities in federal Iraq.

Amna Suraka (Red Jail) Museum

A highlight of Sulaimaniyah is the Amna Suraka (Red Jail) Museum which once served as the northern headquarters (from 1979 to 1991) of Saddam Hussein’s Intelligence Service, known as the Mukhabarat but colloquially referred to as ‘Amn‘.

The buildings on the site, which are riddled with pockmarks from gun fire, were built in 1979 by an East Germany construction company, with many of the buildings looking like they were transplanted from communist East Berlin.

The grounds of the museum contain tanks and other weapons which the Kurdish Peshmerga forces captured from the Iraqi Army during their liberation of the complex in 1991.

During the Al-Anfal Campaign, in which Saddam Hussein tried to wipe out the Kurdish population, the headquarters were used to imprison and torture thousands of Kurds.

During the 1991 Battle of Sulaimaniyah, Iraqi security officials and soldiers retreated to the Amn headquarters which served as the Baathist stronghold in the city.

After two days of intense fighting, Kurdish Peshmerga forces overran the headquarters. Rebels executed 300 Amn agents, with angry civilians killing many others.

In 2003, the Amna Suraka Museum was opened at the site, to serve as a reminder of the atrocities which had taken place under Saddam’s rule.

Of the various buildings in the museum complex, a highlight is the Hall of Mirrors which is lined with 182,000 shards of glass, each commemorating Kurds killed during the genocidal Al-Anfal Campaign. The hall also contains 4,500 backlights to represent the number of Kurdish villages destroyed during the campaign.

Other memorial halls contain photos and the names of thousands of Kurds who died as a result of the Al-Anfal Campaign.

At the rear of the complex is the former jail house which has been left largely untouched.

What could be described as a ‘house of horrors’, the former jail house is lined with small cells which were crammed beyond capacity.

Each cell had just one small window for ventilation near the ceiling. On the day I visited, the temperature outside was close to 50 degrees Celsius.

Cells, which were designed to hold 10 people, often held 50, with prisoners taking it in turns to sleep on the floor.

While all the walls of the prison are cold, exposed concrete, one room stands out due to its warm, wood panelling.

Rather than being an inviting space, this room was used to torture prisoners.

The museum is a necessary, albeit harrowing, reflection of the large-scale oppression that the Kurds suffered under the rule of Saddam Hussein.

One of the most important museums in Iraqi Kurdistan! 

Access:

Located in the suburbs of Sulaimaniyah, the museum is free of charge and is open six days a week, but closed each day for lunch from 12 pm to 1 pm.

Sulaymaniyah Souk

Sulaymaniyah’s souk (bazaar) is without a doubt, the largest traditional market in Iraqi Kurdistan.

The souk covers the entire downtown area of the city, with covered laneways stretching for kilometres in every direction.

Outside on the busy streets, the souk spreads its tentacles even further, with vendors selling fruits, vegetables, pets, clothing, shoes and so much more.

Small trucks, laden with melons and other produce occupy any available parking spaces. It’s a wonderfully intoxicating scene and, if you walk around with your camera out, everyone will be asking for their photo to be taken.

The busiest time for the market is later in the afternoon once the blistering heat has waned.

At around 7 pm, the evening ‘call to prayer’ rings out over the city, marking the official closing time for the market.

 

 

 

 

Grand Mosque of Sulaimaniyah

Located in the heart of the old town, the Grand Mosque of Sulaimaniyah is one of the oldest mosques in the city.

It’s partially-tiled minaret is especially beautiful and is best photographed around sunset.

Chavi Land

Located on a hill overlooking Sulaimaniyah is the rather depressing Chavi Land. What bills itself as a family ‘fun park’ has a distinctly forlorn feel to it. It’s all a little run down and poorly maintained. The toilets definitely should be avoided!

I arrived at 5 pm, in order to ride the teleferic (cable car) up onto the nearby mountain to take photos of the sun setting over Sulaimaniyah.

Due to yet another power outage (they occur regularly, about every hour, in Iraqi Kurdistan), nothing in the park was operating. An amusement park without any amusements!

I waited at the cable car station until the sun had set before returning to the city.

Halabja

Halabja Monument and Peace Museum

Located in a far corner of Iraqi Kurdistan, close to the Iranian border, the otherwise non-descript town of Halabja made world news headlines in 1988, during the closing days of the Iran-Iraq war.

The town was the scene for a truly crazy act carried out by a crazed dictator, Saddam Hussein, who ordered the Iraqi Air Force to drop bombs containing lethal chemical weapons on the civilian population.

The attack, which took place on the 16th of March 1988, was part of the Al-Anfal Campaign, a campaign conducted by Saddam Hussein who was determined to exterminate the entire Kurdish population – who numbered around 8,000,000 at the time!

The attack was also an attempt to repel the Iranian Army, who had captured Halabja just 48 hours prior.

The incident was the largest chemical weapons attack directed against a civilian-populated area in history, and resulted in the deaths of between 3,200 and 5,000 people and injured 7,000 to 10,000 more.

A UN investigation concluded that mustard gas, along with other unknown chemical weapons, had been used in the attack.

Located on the outskirts of town, as you drive in on the main road from Sulaimaniyah, the Halabja Monument and Peace Museum pays homage to the victims of this horrific attack.

The main hall of the museum contains the names of the victims, while outside, the original fighter jet which dropped the chemical bombs is on display.

Access:

The Halabja Monument and Peace Museum, which is free of charge, is open every day between 8 am and 12 pm, and then from 1 pm to 5 pm.

Getting There:

Halabja is located at the end of the road in Iraqi Kurdistan, inside a wide valley, surrounded by Iran.

Shared taxis from Sulaimaniyah cover the 73 km distance in one hour. It’s an easy day trip from Sulaimaniyah! A single seat, in a 4-seater taxi, costs IQD 10,000.

Accommodation

There’s no shortage of excellent mid-range and top-end hotels in Erbil and Sulaymaniyah. For backpackers, there is just one hostel in Iraqi Kurdistan which is the Dolphin hostel in Sulaymaniyah.

Due to the compact size of Iraqi Kurdistan, it’s possible to base yourself in the two main cities and then do day trips from there.

Many accommodation OTA’s (Online Travel Agents) do not cover Iraq. Booking.com is one OTA which does provide coverage of Iraq. 

Erbil

While in Erbil, I stayed at the excellent Erbil View Hotel. I rated this hotel 10/10 on booking.com – it is excellent in every respect.

The friendly and helpful staff at the hotel assured me that the Erbil View Hotel was my home away from home. I was made to feel welcome at all times. The rooms are comfortable and included a daily breakfast buffet.

While there are no restaurants in the area, the hotel restaurant serves excellent meals in the evening and also offers room service.

Erbil citadel and souk are a 10-minute walk from the hotel.

Sulaymaniyah

Located in the heart of Sulaimaniyah old town, the excellent Khan Saray Hotel is the kind of hotel you never want to leave. I extended my stay several times.

I booked the 1st night on booking.com at US$40. I then negotiated a direct rate of US$28 for subsequent nights. This represented excellent value, and included an amazing breakfast in the hotel restaurant.

My large, spacious room faced inward to a shopping mall, which ensured that the room was nice and quiet. Outside, the sprawling souk surrounds the hotel. Everything is within walking distance from the hotel.

Highly Recommended!

Eating Out

The cuisine of Iraqi Kurdistan is the same as that found throughout the region – lots of kebabs, and other grilled meats, served with freshly baked Khubz (flatbread), pickled vegetables and salad.

Kebabs are served for lunch and dinner, either as Shish kebab or as a sandwich.

Popular breakfast items include lentil soup, boiled eggs, tomatoes, cucumber, freshly made local yoghurt (often served with a drizzle of locally sourced honey), goat’s cheese and much more.

I could happily eat a Kurdish breakfast every day!

All of this is served with an ample amount of warm, freshly baked Khubz.

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Khubz tannour (flatbread)

What rice is to the Asians, Khubz (flatbread) is to the Kurds – a staple which is served, always freshly baked, at all meals.

Most bakeries in Iraqi Kurdistan bake their Khubz using traditional tandoor ovens, known locally as tannour. The bread spends less than one minute inside the oven before its ready to serve!

The following video was taken in a bakery in Sulaimaniyah, where the baker’s worked non-stop, throughout the day, producing a mountain of Khubz.

The finished bread is always laid out on a table at the front of the bakery and disappears as quickly as it’s produced – snapped up by hungry locals.

 

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Restaurants

Erbil

Strangely, the streets of downtown Erbil seem to lack restaurants. The best place to look for a meal is inside the souk where a number of restaurants serve typical Kurdish food.

Sulaimaniyah

While restaurants are scarce in Erbil, there’s no shortage of places to eat in Sulaimaniyah. The standard food is minced-meat shish kebabs which are always served with a side salad of tomatoes and white onions, served both grilled and raw.

Apart from kebabs, many restaurants offer freshly roasted chicken which makes for a nice break.

Freshly baked flatbread is served with all meals, and is used instead of utensils, to either scoop up or pull food apart.

Halabja

Tiny Halabja offers at least one amazing restaurant which is located in the centre of town – every taxi driver knows the place and will drop you there!

Since the genocide museum is closed between 12 pm and 1 pm, the restaurant is a great place to relax and unwind.

My lunch consisted of the most succulent roasted chicken which was served with various sides, including stewed apricots. Delicious!

Cafés/ Tea Shops

Erbil

The staple refresher in Iraqi Kurdistan is sweet black tea, which is always served boiling hot, in small glasses.

If you try to pick up the glass too soon, you’ll burn your fingers. Locals get around this by pouring a small portion of tea into the plastic saucer and slurping it from the there.

Before pouring the tea, two heaped spoons of sugar are added!

Hidden away inside the busy laneways of Erbil souk are numerous coffee and tea houses which offer respite from all the hustle and bustle.

I especially recommend the excellent Yolo Coffee which is operated by a team of friendly Indians, who loved to talk about cricket with their regular Australian customer. I stopped by most days for my caffeine fix!

Not to be outdone, the many tea houses inside Erbil souk are a great place to rub shoulders with the locals.

I always had my camera out while in Erbil souk and everyone wanted their photo taken. Thanks to WhatsApp and Instagram, I’m able to send people their photos which is highly appreciated.

Sulaimaniyah

As with Erbil, there are many coffee and tea shops hidden away inside the rabbit-warren of covered laneways which comprise Sulaimaniyah souk.

The student population is responsible for many fine cafes in Sulaimaniyah, which is possibly the most cosmopolitan city in all of Iraq.

A line of locals outside one cafe in Sulaimaniyah souk led me to discover the most divine desert – a piece of freshly baked baklava, crumbled into a bowl of freshly made, warm custard.

Truly divine and, as is common in Iraqi Kurdistan, the cafe owner refused to accept payment from me.

Bars/ Alcohol

While there are no bars in Iraqi Kurdistan, there are some bottle shops where alcohol can be purchased.

Visa Requirements

As an autonomous region of Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan enforces its own visa policy, with nationals of many countries able to apply for a Visa on Arrival (VOA) which is valid for 30-days.

Visas are issued at Erbil and Sulaimaniyah International airports from the Visa desk in the immigration hall. A 30-day visa costs US$77 which can be paid in either USD or Euro cash. Credit cards are not accepted!

It’s important to note that a visa issued in Iraqi Kurdistan is only valid for travel within Iraqi Kurdistan. However, a visa issued in federal Iraq is valid for travel everywhere in Iraq, including Iraqi Kurdistan.

You cannot travel into federal Iraq using an Iraqi Kurdistan visa.  

If you are planning to visit both Iraqi Kurdistan and federal Iraq, it is best that you make your first entry into federal Iraq since your Iraqi visa is good for travel in all of Iraq, therefore you’ll only need to pay for one visa at US$77.  

If you first enter Iraq through Iraqi Kurdistan, and wish to travel into federal Iraq, you will need to fly into federal Iraq and purchase an additional Iraqi visa at US$77 – i.e., you will need to pay for two visas at US$77 each.  

Note: Many shared taxis in Iraqi Kurdistan transit through federal Iraq during their journey’s. A prime example of this is the journey from Erbil to Sulaymaniyah. There are two ways to travel on this route; either via Tikrit (which is in federal Iraq) or via the town of Dukan (which is in Iraqi Kurdistan).

If you are travelling on an Iraqi Kurdistan visa, you are not allowed to transit through federal Iraq. You need to ensure you travel via Dukan and not Tikrit.

Prior to travelling, you should consult the Iraq Visa Policy.

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Important Note Regarding the United States Visa Waiver Program

For non-U.S. passport holders, who normally travel to the United States under the Visa Waiver Program (VWP), aka ESTA, the following should be noted:

Travelers in the following categories are no longer eligible to travel or be admitted to the United States under the Visa Waiver Program (VWP):

• Nationals of VWP countries who have traveled to or been present in Iran, Iraq, North Korea, Sudan, Syria, Libya, Somalia and Yemen on or after March 1, 2011 (with limited exceptions for travel for diplomatic or military purposes in the service of a VWP country).
• Nationals of VWP countries who are also nationals of Iran, Iraq, North Korea, Sudan, or Syria.

Anyone who has travelled to any of the above listed countries will need to apply for a visa from a United States embassy before being able to visit the United States.

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Getting There

Air

There are currently two international airports operating in Iraqi Kurdistan; Erbil International Airport and Sulaimaniyah International Airport – with a third, Duhok International Airport, under construction.

Airport Security Checks

Due to the special security situation in Iraq, entering an Iraqi airport requires passing through several security checkpoints, before you even reach the terminal. Due to the time involved at each checkpoint, it’s wise to arrive at least 4 hours prior to your departure.

The following steps describe the process for accessing Erbil International airport:

Step 1: All arriving vehicles must first stop at a covered roadside checkpoint.

Everyone must exit the vehicle, all doors must be opened, along with the hood and bonnet.

Security personnel, with sniffer dogs, will inspect the contents of the car, check the engine and the boot compartment to ensure no weapons or bombs are being carried into the airport complex. All passengers receive a pat-down from security staff.

Step 2: Once cleared through the vehicle checkpoint, all passengers travel next to a security screening building which is located about 2 km from the airport terminal. No vehicles are allowed to proceed further beyond this point.

At this point, passengers undergo the first of three full airport security screenings, with all luggage being x-rayed.

Once cleared through security, passengers make their way onto shuttle buses which are parked at the rear of the building. These buses then transfer passengers to the actual terminal.

Step 3: Upon arrival at the terminal, passengers must once again pass through another security screening before entering the terminal.

Step 4: Once inside the terminal, you can check in for your flight.

Step 5: Once you have your boarding pass you can proceed to immigration and then the 3rd, and final, security screening!

Bring your patience!

Erbil International Airport

The main gateway to Iraqi Kurdistan is Erbil International Airport (IATA: EBL) which boasts a modern terminal which was completed in 2010. The airport has the distinction of having one of the longest runways in the world at 4,800 m (15,748 ft).

Visas-on-arrival are issued at the airport for certain nationalities (see the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section above for more details).

The following airlines provide services to/from Erbil International Airport:

• Air Arabia – flies to/from Sharjah
• AnadoluJet – flies to/from Adana, Diyarbakir, Gaziantep, Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen
• Austrian Airlines – flies to/from Vienna
• Cham Wings Airlines – flies to/from Damascus
• Egyptair – flies to/from Cairo
• Emirates – flies to/from Dubai–International
• Eurowings – flies to/from Düsseldorf
• Fly Baghdad – flies to/from Aleppo, Ankara, Baghdad, Damascus, Istanbul, Medina
• flydubai – flies to/from Dubai–International
• FlyErbil  – flies to/from Baku, Cologne/Bonn, Copenhagen, Düsseldorf, Hanover, Istanbul, Yerevan
• Iraqi Airways Amman–Queen Alia, Ankara, Baghdad, Baku, Berlin, Cairo, Copenhagen, Dubai–International, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Istanbul, Munich, Sulaymaniyah
• Lufthansa – flies to/from Frankfurt
• Mahan Air – flies to/from Tehran–Imam Khomeini
• Middle East Airlines – flies to/from Beirut
• Pegasus Airlines – flies to/from Ankara, Gaziantep, Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen
• Qatar Airways – flies to/from Doha
• Royal Jordanian – flies to/from Amman–Queen Alia
• Turkish Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul

Sulaimaniyah International Airport

The 2nd international airport in Iraqi Kurdistan, Sulaimaniyah International Airport (IATA: ISU) is located 14 km (9 mi) outside the city of Sulaimaniyah.

Visas-on-arrival are issued at the airport for certain nationalities (see the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section above for more details).

The following airlines provide services to/from Sulaimaniyah International Airport:

• Condor – flies to/from Düsseldorf
• flydubai – flies to/from Dubai–International
• FlyErbil – flies to/from Düsseldorf
• Iraqi Airways – flies to/from Amman–Queen Alia, Baghdad, Baku, Basra, Beirut, Cairo, Dubai–International, Erbil, Frankfurt, London–Gatwick, Najaf, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
• Mahan Air – flies to/from Kish Island, Tehran–Imam Khomeini
• Pegasus Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen
• Qatar Airways – flies to/from Doha
• Royal Jordanian – flies to/from Amman–Queen Alia
• Turkish Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul

Land

It’s possible to travel overland into Iraqi Kurdistan from either Iran, Turkey or federal Iraq.

Getting Around

Important Note:

Whenever travelling on highways in Iraqi Kurdistan, you must carry your passport. This can be requested at the numerous military checkpoints, although many times you will be simply waved through. 

Taxis

The easiest way to get around cities in Iraqi Kurdistan is by taxi. Although not metered, most drivers are honest and charge around IQD 4-5,000 for any trip around town. You should always agree on the fare prior to commencing your journey.

Taxis in Iraqi Kurdistan are easily identified thanks to their large red license plates.

Long-distance Taxis

The best way to travel between cities in Iraqi Kurdistan is with shared taxis, which depart from long-distance taxi garages.

Taxis carry four passengers, with the fare between Erbil and Sulaimaniyah costing IQD 20,000 per seat.

In Sulaimaniyah, a new taxi garage has recently been opened, but is inconveniently located 10 km outside of town, on the main road to Erbil. The cost of reaching the garage from downtown Sulaimaniyah is IQD 10,000.

Rental Car

There are many rental car companies in Erbil and Sulaimaniyah, although hiring a private driver for the day is possibly cheaper than renting a car and allows you to leave the driving to a local who knows the roads.

The following car rental companies are located in Erbil:

• Advantage Car Rental – Located in downtown Erbil.
• Europcar Erbil – Located at Erbil International Airport.
• Hertz Rental Car – Located at Erbil International Airport and downtown.
• Avis Rental Car – Located at the Divan Hotel in downtown Erbil.

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That’s the end of my travel guide for Iraqi Kurdistan.

If you wish to provide any feedback on this guide, you can leave a comment below.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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