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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 35 years and, 219 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is a Djibouti Travel Guide from taste2travel.
Date Visited: March 2023
Introduction
Djibouti has been a country which has fascinated me for many years. I’d never met anyone who had travelled there and it was a complete mystery.
When I told friends and family that I was heading to Djibouti, they had no idea that such a country even existed! It is a tiny little country, tucked away in a remote corner of eastern Africa, yet it occupies a strategic location at the entrance to the Red Sea.
The official languages of Djibouti are French and Arabic, with Somali and Afar also widely spoken.
The country has a predominantly Muslim population, with Islam being the official religion. Despite this, a sizable French expat population ensures that items such as pork and alcohol are available on restaurant menus.
Djibouti is strategically located at the entrance to the Red Sea.
Djibouti is so strategically located that several countries (France, the United States, and China) maintain military bases there.
The United States military maintains its only African base in Djibouti. This base, Camp Lemonnier, recently made news headlines when it was used for the airlifting of US diplomats out of Khartoum.
Exploring the quiet countryside of Djibouti requires either a rental car or a car with a driver.
Although not a cheap travel destination, quiet, unassuming, little Djibouti is a surprising travel destination – a country of very friendly, and welcoming, inhabitants who always made me feel welcome.
The main expenses will be accommodation and tours. With a lack of public transport in the countryside, you will need to either rent a car or hire a car with a driver to reach most sights.
A salt-encrusted animal skull, at a souvenir stand at Lake Assal.
Due to its unique location at the meeting point of three tectonic plates, the country offers some astounding scenery in the form of Lake Assal and the surrounding volcanic field. This is a country whose geography is still a ‘work in progress’.
A highlight of Djibouti, Lake Assal is a two-hour drive west of Djibouti City.
Djibouti has a hot and arid climate, with temperatures often reaching up to 45°C during the day. I visited during the month of April which was ideal with temperatures around 30°C.
One of several fissure vent volcanoes which were created during the November, 1978 eruption in the area around the Ardoukoba volcano.
Djibouti is an interesting destination which can easily be covered in 7-10 days, although tours to remoter regions are pricey!
My Guide, Akram, exploring one of the small lava tunnels which was formed during the eruption of the Ardoukoba volcano.
Location
Djibouti is located in the Horn of Africa, on the eastern coast of the continent. It is bordered by Eritrea to the north, Ethiopia to the west and south, and Somalia to the southeast.
Due to its strategic location at the entrance to the Red Sea, Djibouti is a major trans-shipment port.
Djibouti is situated at the entrance to the Red Sea and is strategically located at the crossroads of one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes, making it a hub for international trade and commerce. It serves as a major trans-shipment port.
The country has a coastline of approximately 300 km and covers a total land area of 23,200 square kilometres (8,957 square miles), which makes it about the size of the US state of New Jersey.
Tectonic Location
This map shows Djibouti’s location at the tri-point of three tectonic plates. Source: Wikipedia
Just as important is Djibouti’s tectonic location, which has shaped, and continues to shape, the country in every way!
The country is situated near a tectonic triple junction where three tectonic plates meet – African, Arabian, and Somali.
Due to a westward rift movement between the Arabian and Somali plates, the Gulf of Tadjoura has formed over millions of years, which affectively slices Djibouti into two halves.
A map of Djibouti showing the Gulf of Tadjoura which will cut further inland over time. Source: https://www.worldatlas.com/maps/djibouti
Just to the west of the Gulf, Lake Assal lies in a depression at -155 m (509 ft) below sea level, making it the lowest point on the African continent and the third lowest point on earth.
Over the next millions of years, this rift movement will result in the earth’s surface sinking further with Lake Assal eventually becoming part of the sea bed for a much larger Gulf of Tadjoura.
A view of Ghoubbet Bay, and lava fields, near Lake Assal.
Fast forward tens of millions of years into the future and this rifting will eventually split Djibouti into two sections and could leave Ethiopia with a coast of its own.
People
An Afar souvenir seller at Lake Assal, trying to sell me a chunk of Obsidian.
As of 2023, Djibouti has a population of about 1,035,000 people, with more than half (600,000) of the population residing in Djibouti City – the capital and only city of any real size.
The largest ethnic group in Djibouti is the Somali people, who make up about 60% of the population. The Afar people, who are mainly found in the northern part of the country, make up about 35% of the population.
Most of the people in Djibouti practice Islam, which is the official religion of the country. Arabic and French are the official languages, but Somali and Afar are also widely spoken.
Military Personnel
Due to its strategic location, Djibouti is home to a number of military bases. As of 2,021 – 4,000 U.S. Army troops, 1,350 French Army troops, 600 Japanese Army troops, 400 Chinese Army troops, and an unknown number of German Army troops were stationed at various bases throughout Djibouti.
Tour Companies
When I first arrived at Djibouti Airport from Addis Ababa, I was offered a ride into town to my hotel by some friendly locals who were collecting a friend from the same flight.
One of the passengers in the car, Ahmed, runs a tour company called Zo Voyages. He offered to arrange any tours for me while I was in Djibouti.
It was Ahmed who arranged for his friend, Akram Saleh (a freelance driver and guide), to take me to Lake Assal. This was a great day trip!
If you need the services of a tour company while in Djibouti, I can recommend Ahmed, who you can contact at the following:
The flag of Djibouti has two equal horizontal stripes – the top stripe is blueand the bottom stripe is green.
In the centre of the flag, there is a white isosceles triangle with its base along the hoist side. Inside the white triangle, there is a red, five-pointed, star.
The Djiboutian flag flying at the Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel.
The bluestripe on the flag represents the sea, the greenstripe represents the land, and the white triangle represents peace. The redstar in the centre of the flag represents unity.
Djibouti flags for sale at a shop in Djibouti City.
The current design of the flag was adopted on June 27, 1977, when Djibouti gained its independence from France.
Currency
In the style of the former French franc, Djiboutian franc bank notes are especially large.
The Djiboutian franc (International Code: DJF) is the official currency of Djibouti. The currency, which is issued by the Central Bank of Djibouti, was introduced in 1949 to replace the French franc, which was used during the colonial era.
The Djiboutian franc is subdivided into 100 centimes. However, due to the low value of the currency, centimes are rarely used in practice, and most transactions are rounded to the nearest franc.
The highest denomination note, the DJF 10,000 bank note is worth US$56.20.
The banknotes in circulation in Djibouti come in denominations of 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, and 10,000 francs. The coins in circulation are in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, and 500 francs.
Exchange Rate
The franc is pegged to the US dollar at the rate of US$1 = 177.721 DJF
A set of uncirculated 2,000 DJF bank notes which I acquired from a local bank.
For visitor’s who remember the days of the old, over-sized, French franc bank notes, the large Djiboutian franc bank notes will bring back memories.
I could never get them to fit in my wallet and they are way too big for the draws of cash tills. Cashiers have to squash them into the till draws, so they are always creased, crushed and generally messy.
A set of uncirculated 2,000 DJF bank notes which I acquired from a local bank.
If you wish to acquire a note in pristine condition, you will need to ask at a local bank, where I always found the staff to be friendly and helpful.
Money Matters
In terms of hard currency, (i.e. USD cash), travelling in the Horn of Africa can be problematic. In countries such as Ethiopia and Eritrea, the purchase of hard currency is illegal, yet many payments (visa’s etc.) need to be made in USD cash.
If travelling to Eritrea, you will need to carry enough USD cash to cover all expenses since credit cards are not accepted anywhere.
If travelling in Ethiopia, you can affectively halve all costs by changing USD cash “unofficially”.
Officially in Ethiopia, USD$100 = 5,400 ETB while on the black market, USD$100 = 10,000 ETB (as of March 2023).
Unofficial transactions should never be conducted on the street, but in a safe, secure, indoor environment, such as a hotel lobby.
ATMs
Dual currency ATMs, which dispense both DJF and USD cash, can be found everywhere in Djibouti city.
The good news is that ATMs in Djibouti dispense both DJF and USD cash. Djibouti is a great place to replenish your reserves of USD cash!
All common credit cards are widely accepted at ATMs in Djibouti, including Mastercard, Visa and even American Express.
Hallelujah!
SIM Cards
Djibouti Telecom is the only telco in Djibouti.
Telephone and internet services in Djibouti are provided by the government owned, monopoly operator – Djibouti Telecom.
Generally, I found wi-fi speeds to be painfully slow in Djibouti, with an average speed of just 2Mbps!
Patience is required!
You can easily purchase a local SIM card from the Djibouti Telecom store which is located inside Bawadi Mall. You will need to bring your passport.
I purchased a tourist SIM card, for DJF 1,000 (US$5.62) which was valid for 3 days and offered 500 DJF call credits and 5 GB of data.
Travel Costs
Not cheap!
Which is not surprising, since most former French colonies are expensive! The biggest expense will be accommodation and any tours.
Sample costs:
Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): DJF 120 (US$0.67)
Water (0.33 litre bottle): DJF 170 (US$0.96)
Glass of Beer: DJF 1,000 (US$5.62)
Cappuccino: DJF 500 (US$2.81)
Taxi within downtown Djibouti City: DJF 500 (US$2.81)
During my time in Djibouti, I explored Djibouti City and the sights around Lake Assal. I was also keen to visit Lake Abbe, but with a 2-day tour costing US$600, I decided to pass.
Djibouti City
“I Love Djibouti”, outside the Djibouti National Assembly (parliament).
Overlooking the Gulf of Tadjoura and the Red Sea, Djibouti City is the capital and largest city of Djibouti. Home to 600,000 souls, Djibouti is a small, relaxed, laid-back capital which is easily covered on foot.
Djibouti city is a melting pot of various ethnic groups, including Somali, Afar, Arab, and French, which creates a unique blend of cultures.
As of 2021, there were an estimated 34,005 refugees and asylum seekers in Djibouti, with the top countries of origin being neighbouring Somalia (14,132) and Ethiopia (12,742).
The locals are generally friendly and crime rates are low. I spent more than a week in the city and never felt threatened or unsafe. Walking around in the evening isn’t a problem. People generally are courteous and kind. They were happy to see a tourist!
A post box in the European Quarter of Djibouti City.
Despite being the cultural, economic, and political centre of Djibouti, there are few sights of interest for tourists. Rather, the charm of Djibouti lies in its crumbling colonial-era buildings which line the streets of the European Quarter, a district which is pleasant to explore.
A typical colonial-era building in Djibouti’s European Quarter.
The focal point of the European Quarter is Place du 27 Juin 1977 (Place Ménélik). With its whitewashed houses and Moorish arcades, this vast square is a strange mix of the Arab and the European. It’s lined with cafés, bars, restaurants and shops.
The historic city centre of Djibouti was constructed during the French colonial period using madrépore, a relatively friable limestone. Most of the buildings were designed and built in the distinctive French colonial architecture style.
A colonial-era building in the European Quarter of Djibouti City.
To the south of the European Quarter, the African Quarter is much messier and more chaotic. This is where many locals live in rudimentary housing.
Lake Assal
A view of Lake Assal, the lowest point in Africa and the third lowest point on Planet Earth.
Lake Assal is a saline lake located in the central-western part of Djibouti, about a 2-hour drive west from Djibouti City.
Due to ongoing ‘rifting’, Lake Assal will one day be inundated by the nearby Gulf of Tadjoura.
The lake is situated in the Danakil Desert and is one of the most unique and beautiful natural wonders of the country.
A view of Lake Assal, Djibouti.
Due to a westward rift movement between the Arabian and Somali plates, the nearby Gulf of Tadjoura is slowly pushing further west and will one day inundate the area now occupied by Lake Assal.
A view of Lake Assal, a future sea bed in the making.
Essentially, Lake Assal is a future sea bed, currently being formed on land. One day, as the tectonic plates separate further, the lake will be inundated by the encroaching Gulf of Tadjoura.
Lake Assal is a 2-hour drive west of Djibouti City on good sealed roads.
The lake is approximately 155 metres (508 ft) below sea level, making it the lowest point in Africa and the third lowest point on earth.
Any metallic surfaces simply rust in the corrosive air of lake Assal.
It is also considered one of the most saline bodies of water in the world, with a salt concentration of up to 10 times higher than that of the ocean.
A view of Lake Assal, a highlight of Djibouti.
The lake is surrounded by majestic and rugged landscapes, including volcanic formations and rocky hills.
An Afar souvenir seller at Lake Assal wanted to sell me this Obsidian boulder for US$50! It was far too heavy to carry!
The shores of the lake are coated with a thick layer of white salt, creating a stunning contrast with the deep blue color of the water.
Bags of salt, and salt-encrusted animal skulls, for sale at a souvenir stand at Lake Assal.
Overall, Lake Assal is a true natural wonder and a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Djibouti and definitely worth the US$200 tour cost.
A view of the Gulf of Tadjoura near Lake Assal.
Salt Mining
A Chinese-funded salt works, which is located on the shores of Ghoubbet Bay, near to Lake Assal.
With more than six million tonnes of salt being deposited in the area every year, and the thickness of Assal’s crust varying between 20 and 80 metres, this is a resource which mankind could not simply ignore.
Enter the Chinese (no surprise), who have established a salt processing plant on the shores of Gulf of Tadjoura. From here salt is exported directly to China.
Djibouti’s Grand Canyon
Djibouti’s Grand Canyon, actually Belvedere Sul Canyon, is located at a point where three tectonic plates are pulling apart – i.e. rifting.
Djibouti’s Grand Canyon, which is called Belvedere Sul Canyon, is located at a point where three tectonic plates (Africa, Arabia and Somalia) are slowly pulling apart – i.e. rifting.
This is an impressive sight and shows the full effect of ‘rifting’. The canyon is located on the right-hand side of highway RN9, as you drive towards Lake Assal.
My freelance driver/ guide – Akram Saleh – who is a competent driver and very knowledgeable guide, parked at the Grand Canyon car park.
Freelance Tour Guide
I toured Lake Assal with Akram Saleh, who is a very knowledgeable guide and a very good driver.
His fee for the day trip to Lake Assal was US$200.
If you wish to organise a tour, Akram can tailor any tour to suit your needs. You can contact him on Instagram at:
The area around Lake Assal is ‘ground zero’ for tectonic plate movements and a hotbed of geographical activity, with the landscape dominated by, the recently erupted, Ardoukoba volcano.
Basaltic lava fields, which were created during the eruption of the Ardoukoba volcano in 1978.
The Ardoukoba volcano is fed by rift magma which emanates from a volcanic fissure which is part of the Great Rift Valley fault system.
The road through the Ardoukoba volcanic lava field winds its way past recently erupted volcanoes and around basaltic lava flows.
As a result of the most recent eruption in November of 1978, basaltic lava flows cover the landscape. Also present are fumaroles, lava tunnels and deep fissures.
Straddling a tectonic divide with one foot on the Africa plate and one on the Arabian plate, one of many features in the vicinity of the Ardoukoba volcano.
It all makes for fascinating sightseeing!
My Guide, Akram, exploring one of the small lava tunnels which was formed during the eruption of the Ardoukoba volcano.
The Government of Djibouti has initiated a proposal with UNESCO to declare the Lake Assal zone including the Ardoukoba volcano and its surroundings as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Video:
My Guide, Akram Saleh, made a fumarole smoke by inserting his cigarette into the gaseous crevasse – a simple but effective chemistry lesson!
Eating Out
There’s no shortage of cafes, restaurants and bars in Djibouti City.
The cuisine of Djibouti is similar to the cuisine of neighbouring countries such as Ethiopia. The same staples, such as Injera, tibes etc. are served in Djibouti.
Due to the French influence and the presence of French expats, it’s also possible to enjoy some fine French cuisine while in Djibouti City.
Restaurants
Djibouti City is home to many local, budget restaurants and some fine dining options which are owned by French expats.
Some of my favourite dining options in downtown Djibouti City:
Menelik Hotel – Restaurant Tadiourah
Menu at Restaurant Tadiourah at the Menelik Hotel in Djibouti.
Located on the 1st floor of the Menelik hotel in downtown Djibouti City, the Restaurant Tadiourah is a reliable standby which serves both international and local cuisine.
I was in town during Ramadan, and was happy that this restaurant, which is hidden away inside the hotel, was always open and never stopped serving meals. It’s a favourite haunt for visiting Ethiopian businessmen.
Restaurant La Chaumière
Steak with Pepper Sauce – one of two delicious steak meals which I enjoyed at La Chaumière restaurant.
Located across the square from the Menelik hotel, and a short walk from Hotel Atlantic, RestaurantLa Chaumière is popular for its French and international cuisine, with a particular emphasis on seafood and steaks.
I ordered steak one evening and was so impressed, I returned on another occasion, just to try the steak with a different sauce.
Perfectly clean and inviting, the restaurant also offers a good selection of wines, beers and other drinks to accompany the fine meals.
Pizzaiolo Central
The excellent pizza Paysant at Pizzaiolo Central in Djibouti City.
The pizza served at Pizzaiolo Central in downtown Djibouti is surprisingly good. Despite Djibouti being an Islamic country, the menu here features real ham (pork) and real bacon.
I recommend the pizza Paysant (Peasant’s pizza) which features bacon, egg and cheese – its breakfast on a pizza.
Pizzaiolo Central is located around the corner from everything else listed in this section.
Cafes
A superb mille-feuille served with an excellent café latte at Han’s Cake in Djibouti City.
Han’s Cake
There is just one café worth mentioning – the best in town – Han’s Cake, which is located opposite the Hotel Atlantic in downtown Djibouti City.
It is also located alongside all the restaurants listed in this section.
Open from 7 am to 10 pm, both the food and the cakes are divine. The coffee is the best in town.
Bars
Despite Djibouti being an Islamic country, there are plenty of bars serving (always imported) alcohol.
Most restaurants also serve alcohol.
Accommodation
Atlantic Hotel
My residence during my stay in Djibouti City – the wonderful Atlantic Hotel.
During my stay in Djibouti City, I took up residence at the wonderfully comfortable Atlantic Hotel, which is located in the heart of the downtown area.
My room at the Atlantic Hotel in Djibouti City.
All of the dining options mentioned in the ‘Eating Out‘ section are located just a short stroll from this hotel.
A view of my room at the Atlantic Hotel in Djibouti City.
If you wish to stay in the heart of Djibouti city, the Atlantic hotel is a top choice.
Breakfast at the Atlantic Hotel in Djibouti City.
Rooms, which cost around US$160 per night can be booked on Booking.com and include a buffet breakfast.
The hotel also offers rental cars.
Djibouti Palace Kempinski
The Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel is the first 5-star hotel in the Horn of Africa.
The first 5-star hotel in the Horn of Africa, the Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel is a wonderful choice for those travelling on a business expense account or for those wishing to splurge.
The very quiet lobby of the Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel.
With plush rooms starting at US$300 per night, this is the best choice in Djibouti City and the finest hotel anywhere in the region.
A view of the Djibouti Palace Kempinski hotel.
During my visit, the hotel seemed to be empty. I asked about occupancy and was told that it was low due to Ramadan.
The pool at the Djibouti Palace Kempinski is the most popular pool in town.
Even if you are not staying at the Djibouti Palace Kempinski, it is worth spending DJF 4,500 (USD$25) for a day pass for the swimmingpool.
This is the best place in town to cool off, and, on the day of my visit, was popular with visiting French military personnel, who used their standard khaki-issued backpacks to carry their pool accessories.
Airbnb
Due to the number of expats living in Djibouti, there are many Djibouti apartments available for rent on Airbnb which can save you on the cost of accommodation and allow you to further reduce costs by self-catering.
If you are self-catering, the best places to shop for groceries are the Géant hypermarket, which is located inside Bawadi Mall (the only mall in town) or the Nougaprix supermarketwhich is located downtown.
Tip: When booking apartments on Airbnb, check the location. Some apartments are located well away from the centre, in the middle of quiet neighbourhood’s.
There’s no point staying somewhere which is far from the centre and requires expensive taxi rides whenever you wish to go anywhere.
Visa Requirements
My passport entry stamp for Djibouti.
All visitors to Djibouti must obtain either a visa on arrival to Djibouti, an electronic e-visa online or a visa from one of the Djiboutian diplomatic missions prior to arrival in Djibouti.
The one exception to this rule is Singaporean passport holders, who can enter Djibouti without a visa.
Tourist visas are valid for a stay of 30 days.
Djibouti Visa in Addis Ababa
My Djiboutian visa which was issued on the same day in Addis Ababa.
I applied for my Djibouti visa at the Djibouti Embassy in Addis Ababa where a single-entry tourist visa cost me US$35, payable in USD cash, and required one passport photo.
Thirty day tourist visas are issued the same day, with applications accepted until 12 noon. The embassy then closes for lunch, then reopens at 1:30 pm at which time you can collect your passport. The staff are friendly and helpful.
My Djibouti visa receipt from the Djibouti embassy in Addis Ababa.
Letter of Invitation
I was not asked for a letter of invitation when I applied for my visa at the embassy – but – I was asked for my letter of invitation by immigration upon arrival at Djibouti airport.
Since I didn’t have a letter of invitation, I was asked to wait – along with most other foreigners from the flight. Eventually, a 2nd immigration officer stamped an entry stamp into my passport and welcomed me to Djibouti.
The contact details of the Djibouti Embassy in Addis Ababa are:
Address
Bole Sub City, Kebele-03, House No. 003
Addis Ababa
Ethiopia
Phone
+251-116-613200
+251-116-613006
Fax
+251-116-612786
Getting There
Air
The easiest and most common way to get to Djibouti is by air.
Djibouti–Ambouli International Airport is the only airport in Djibouti. Located 6 kilometres (4 miles) south of downtown, the airport is currently undergoing a complete rebuild (March 2023). As such, everything is a mess and there are currently no shops, services or anything else available.
The airport also serves as a joint civilian/military-use airport. When my Ethiopian Airlines flight taxied to the terminal, we parked next to a group of uniformed soldiers who were unloading large assault rifles from various shipping containers and laying them out on the tarmac. Military stock-taking?
The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from Djibouti:
Air Djibouti – flies to/from Addis Ababa, Aden, Dire Dawa, Hargeisa, Mogadishu
Air France – flies to/from Paris–Charles de Gaulle
Ethiopian Airlines – flies to/from Addis Ababa, Dire Dawa
Kenya Airways – flies to/from Addis Ababa, Nairobi–Jomo Kenyatta
Qatar Airways – flies to/from Doha
Saudia – flies to/from Jeddah
Turkish Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul
Yemenia – flies to/from Aden
Airport Transport
Taxis are available outside the terminal.
I was fortunate to meet some friendly locals who offered to drive me to my downtown hotel – a wonderful introduction to the country. The Djiboutian’s are so friendly and kind!
Land
Djibouti shares borders with Eritrea, Ethiopia, and Somalia, but travel overland can be challenging due to poor road conditions, security risks, and the need for permits and visas.
Currently the land border between Djibouti and Eritrea is closed while the borders between Djibouti and Ethiopia and Somalia (Somaliland) are open.
However, the newly constructed Addis Ababa-Djibouti railway line provides a convenient and safe way to travel between Ethiopia and Djibouti.
Somaliland
A Somaliland-registered 4WD being readied for its overnight journey from Djibouti City to Hargeisa.
4WD vehicles for Hargeisa (capital of Somaliland) depart each evening at around 5 pm from Avenue 26 in Djibouti City. The cost of a seat up front, next to the driver, is USD$40, while those behind cost US$30.
There is no fixed office for these Somaliland ‘taxis’, they simply park alongside the roadside on Avenue 26. Any taxi driver in Djibouti knows where to find them and you should arrange transportation the day before.
Somaliland 4WD’s on Avenue 26 are easily identified by their Somaliland license plates.
There are many vehicles making this journey each evening, with all 4WD’s being 1990’s-era Toyota Land Cruisers. They are beat up, well past their expiry date and prone to breakdowns in the Somali dessert in the middle of the night. All part of the adventure!
The 562 km journey is entirely on unsealed roads (except for the first 20 km inside Djibouti) with a total journey time of 17 hours. This includes a 4-hour stop at the border.
Most of the journey is done during the night, when it is cooler in the desert.
The Somali drivers, who drive like there is no tomorrow, speed along the sandy/ gravel/ rutted tracks at truly dangerous speeds in the darkness of night. The locals in my car kept asking the driver to slow down. They were afraid for their lives!
This is a long, enduring, uncomfortable, and at times plain scary, journey!
More coverage on this in my Somaliland Travel Guide.
My beautiful Osprey travel bag, covered in desert dust and crushed under a heavy white sack.
Tip:
Prior to your main bag (backpack) being strapped onto the roof of the 4WD, you should remove anything valuable or breakable, including all toiletries. Your bag will be crushed under the weight of boxes and other heavy items.
Also at the border, you will be separated from anything on the roof of your vehicle for about 4 hours.
Getting Around
Public transport in Djibouti consists mainly of minibuses that are privately owned, with no known schedule.
Taxis are also numerous and inexpensive with most rides around Djibouti City costing between DJF 500 – 1,000 (USD$2,80 – $5.60).
Taxi
Taxis in Djibouti tend to look like beat up dodgem cars. A taxi fare around Djibouti city should cost DJF 500, with longer journeys costing up to DJF 1,000.
Rental Car
Djibouti car license plates display numbers and numerals in Latin and Arabic characters.
The Atlantic Hotel offers rental cars starting a USD$50 per day.
That’s the end of my travel guide for Djibouti. If you wish to comment, please feel free to leave a message below.
All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contactpage.
About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 35 years and, 219 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is an Eritrea Travel Guide from taste2travel.
Date Visited: March 2023
Introduction
I have always had the desire to visit Eritrea. When I made contact last year with Captain Kahsai, the owner of an Eritrean tour company, he assured me that he could get me a visa. I then started making plans to visit Eritrea – and I’m glad I did!
Eritrea is a fascinating destination. A very safe country, populated by friendly, gentle, helpful people. It was a pleasure to spend time among the Eritreans.
No shortage of smiles from the friendly Eritreans.
Eritrea is a small country located in the Horn of Africa, bordering Ethiopia to the south, Sudan to the west, and Djibouti and the Red Sea to the east.
It gained independence from Ethiopia in 1993 after a 30-year, protracted and bloody, struggle for self-determination.
A young girl in Massawa old town.
Eritrea has a rich history, dating back to ancient times and has been influenced by a variety of cultures and empires over the centuries, including the Axumite Empire, the Ottoman Empire, and Italian colonialism.
This has contributed to the country’s diverse cultural heritage and unique identity.
Home to 1000’s of pieces of destroyed military equipment, the Tank Graveyard in Asmara is a truly bizarre sight.
Today, Eritrea is known for its rugged landscape, which includes a portion of the Ethiopian Highlands, the Great Rift Valley and the Danakil Desert, as well as its vibrant and colourful marketplaces, traditional music and dance, and delicious cuisine.
A view of the Great Rift Valley at Qohaito.
Despite its small size, Eritrea has a rich natural and cultural heritage and is a fascinating destination for intrepid travellers.
The visa process is a little tricky but I explain in the Visa Requirements section below, exactly how I obtained my visa.
I hope this Eritrea Travel Guide inspires others to plan a trip to this fascinating, but often overlooked, African destination.
Location
Asmara, Eritrea
Eritrea is a country located in the Horn of Africa. It is bordered by Sudan in the west, Ethiopia in the south, and Djibouti in the southeast.
Over the centuries, the different occupiers of the port city of Massawa have left their mark in the form of architectural influences.
Eritrea extends about 1,000 km (600 mi) along the Red Sea coast and includes the islands of the Dahlak Archipelago. Due to its strategic location, Eritrea has a long history of invasion and occupation by such powers as Turkey, Egypt, Italy and Ethiopia.
Eritrea’s coastal location has long been important in its history and culture—a fact reflected in its name, which is an Italianised version of Mare Erythraeum, Latin for “Red Sea.”
A view of the central highlands of Eritrea.
While the coastal plain is extremely hot and dry, the interior of Eritrea is dominated by a high central plateau that varies from 1,800 to 3,000 metres (5,906–9,843 ft) above sea level.
The capital city, Asmara, is located at a lofty 2,325 metres (7,628 feet), making it one of the highest capital cities in Africa.
Further inland, close to the Ethiopian border, the Debub region is home to a high plateau, which drops abruptly, into the depths of the Great Rift Valley.
People
School boys in Asmara.
Eritrea’s diverse population of 3.6 million is a melting pot of different cultures and traditions. The Tigrinya, Tigre, Saho, and smaller ethnic groups each have their unique customs and traditions, which contribute to the country’s rich heritage.
Despite their differences, the people of Eritrea share a common history and are united in their love for their country.
Eritreans are very friendly and welcoming and go out of their way to make visitors feel welcome.
Printed on very thin paper, the “Eritrea Profile” is the English-language daily newspaper.
With a very low crime rate, Eritrea is a very safe country to travel in and, at no stage, did I feel threatened or hassled. Compared to other African countries, travelling in Eritrea is very relaxed.
An Eritrean Orthodox Christian.
The two major religions in Eritrea are Christianity (Eritrean Orthodox) and Islam (Sunni).
However, the number of adherents of each faith is subject to debate. Estimates of the Christian share of the population range from 47% and 63%, while estimates of the Muslim share of the population range from 37% to 52%.
Eritrean Orthodox church service at the St. Mariam church in Massawa.
Either way, the two groups live together in harmony with mosques and churches located close to each other in most towns.
Christian and Muslim friends, together in the city of Keren.
The Tigrinya ethnic group comprises the largest portion of Eritrea’s population, accounting for around 50% of the total.
Street scene in the city of Keren.
The Tigrinya people mainly inhabit the highlands, including the capital city, Asmara. They speak Tigrinya, which is also the country’s official language.
Traditional Eritrean bridal dresses, in a shop in Keren.
The Tigrinya have a rich cultural heritage, which includes music, dance, and traditional cuisine. The Tigrinya people are known for their hospitality and are often referred to as “the people of the land of harmony.”
Traditional round huts which belong to the Bilan people, who live in the vicinity of Keren.
The Tigre people are the second-largest ethnic group in Eritrea, comprising around 30% of the total population. They mainly inhabit the lowlands and coastal areas of the country.
The Tigre people speak Tigre, a language closely related to Tigrinya. They have a rich history and culture, which includes traditional dances like the Habesha, a sword dance.
Camels are often used for transporting goods in Eritrea.
The Tigre people are known for their resilience and bravery and have played a crucial role in Eritrea’s struggle for independence.
Flag
The flag of Eritrea is dominated by a red isosceles triangle based on the hoist-side pointed toward the fly-side.
The flag is further divided by two opposing triangles – an upper triangle which is green and a lower triangle which is blue.
An Eritrean flag, in a gift shop in Asmara.
On the hoist-side, in the centre of the red triangle, is a yellow olive branch encircled by an olive wreath. The wreath features 30 leaves which represent the thirty years spent in the struggle for independence.
The Eritrean flag, flying alongside the flag of the Eritrean People’s Liberation Front in the city of Keren.
The redcolour signifies the blood shed in the struggle for independence, while the green represents the agriculture and livestock of the country and the bluefor the bounty of the sea.
The Eritrean flag, featured on a souvenir cap, at a gift shop in Asmara.
Currency
A rare find in Eritrea – a fresh, clean bank note.
The official currency of Eritrea is the nakfa which has the international currency code of ERN.
The nakfa was introduced in 1997 to replace the Ethiopian birr as the national currency. The currency is named after the town of Nakfa, which was a major centre of the Eritrean struggle for independence.
The obverse side of the 10 nakfa bank note features a scene from the now defunct Asmara to Massawa railway.
For the uninitiated, nakfa bank notes are hard to distinguish since they are all the same colour, almost the same size and feature a very similar design. Most notes are old, dirty and crumpled with notes in good condition being very hard to find.
Issued by the Bank of Eritrea, the nakfa is available in the form of coins and banknotes with 1 nakfa being divided into 100 cents. The coins are available in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 25, and 50 cents, and the banknotes are available in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 nakfa.
Eritrean nakfa banknotes are the same colour, almost the same size and feature a similar design.
Exchange Rate:
To check the current exchange rate between USD and ERN, click on the following link:
Credit cards are not accepted anywhere in Eritrea! As such, credit cards cannot be used to withdraw cash at ATMs, or from a bank branch in the form of a cash advance.
Furthermore, ATMs do not exist in Eritrea and plastic cards are not in use in Eritrea.
Eritrea is purely a cash society!
It is essential that you arrive with enough USD cash to cover all your travel expenses!
You are unable to purchase any foreign currency from the few money changers which exist in Eritrea.
Being a closed economy, the currency of Eritrea cannot be exchanged outside of Eritrea. You will also not be able to convert any remaining nakfa back into USD upon your departure.
My guide, Yehdego, entering the The Himbol currency exchange shop on Harnet street, downtown Asmara.
The best place to change foreign currency is at the Himbol currency exchange which is located on Harnet street in downtown Asmara. They accept a variety of foreign currencies, but USD is preferred.
Costs
Travel costs in Eritrea are quite reasonable, with the biggest expense for me being the cost of a tour. If you travel independently, Eritrea could be a travel bargain.
Asmara Beer (always served in a brown bottle without any label): US$2
Cappuccino: US$0.80
Plastic bottled water (always imported): US$2.00
Wi-Fi
Unlike in most other countries, Wi-Fi is not freely available in Eritrea and its use is heavily restricted.
One local told me that the Eritrean government has observed how, around the world, the internet has been used to allow people to organise themselves to protest.
By banning the internet, almost completely, the government of Eritrea avoids such issues!
Wi-Fi Access
You can access the internet at the Asmara Palace Hotel, although it is painfully slow with a download speed of 2MBps being shared between all hotel guests.
The backbone of the hotel’s technology infrastructure is an old-style ADSL router. Very slow and almost unusable! During my time at the hotel, I was unable to view websites or even open emails.
There are a few internet cafes in most towns where you can pay to access the internet.
Tour Companies
I travelled to Eritrea with Damera tours, who I would highly recommend.
The owner of Damera Tours, Captain Kahsai, worked for most of his career as a pilot for Ethiopian Airlines.
Damera tours is owned by the friendly, enthusiastic, and wholly reliable, Captain Kahsai, a distinguished, professional, Eritrean, who worked for most of his career as a captain with Ethiopian Airlines.
Artwork, showcasing the iconic buildings of Asmara, adorns the office wall at Damera Tours.
After retiring from his aviation career, Captain Kahsai returned home to his beloved Eritrea, leaving his family and friends behind in Germany, to establish Damera tours. He now spends his time commuting between Eritrea and Germany.
Thanks to the support and assistance of Captain Kahsai, I was able to gain a visa authorisation, online, in less in 10 days.
The office of Damera Tours in Asmara.
Captain Kahsai is the proud owner of a classic, 1980’s era, gold-coloured Mercedes which he drives around Asmara in style! You should definitely take him up on any offer of a ride!
Contact Details for Captain Kahsai
Captain /Dr. Kahsai Berhane
CEO & Chief Pilot
Damera Aviation Plc
Touring the remote Debub region, which is only accessible via 4WD, with Damera Tours.
Tour Itinerary and Costs
I booked a 6D/ 5N tour, which covered Asmara, Massawa, Keren and the ruins of Qohaito.
As a single passenger, the tour cost me a total of US$1490. The cost for 2 or more travellers is US$990 per person.
Tour Inclusions
Included in the cost of the tour was visa service, transport, driver, guide and accommodation – with most nights spent at the very comfortable Asmara Palace Hotel – the best hotel in Eritrea!
My guide, Yihdego Bairu, was highly knowledgeable, very patient (while waiting for me to finish taking my many photos), and seemed to have friends in every corner of Eritrea. He repeatedly told me that having me as a client wasn’t work – it was a pleasure! So kind!
My driver, Michael, was very competent and seemed to have knowledge of every pot hole in the road, which he always managed to avoid.
On the road from Asmara to Massawa with Damera Tours.
Tour Exclusions
What wasn’t included in the cost of the tour were personal expenses, meals, drinks and the visa fee of US$70.
Meals are not necessarily cheap in Eritrea, with an average meal (with a drink) costing between US$15 – 20.
A spectacular view of the Great Rift Valley, which I visited in a 4WD, with the amazing team from Damera Tours.
Visa Service
As part of their service, Damera tours takes care of securing visas for their clients. More details on this, plus an outline of the visa process, can be found in the Visa Requirements section below.
Fauna
A staring competition with a male hamadryas baboon.
A common sight on the side of the highways in Eritrea are troops of hamadryas baboons.
Always looking for a free feed, these baboons are the northernmost of all the baboons, being native to the Horn of Africa and the southwestern region of the Arabian Peninsula.
A male hamadryas baboon.
These regions provide habitats with the advantage for this species of fewer natural predators than central or southern Africa where other baboons reside.
A much smaller female hamadryas baboon with her infant.
One of the more striking features of this species of baboon is its sexual dimorphism – males are nearly twice as large as females.
Adult males have a pronounced cape (mane and mantle), silver-white in colour, which they develop around the age of ten, while the females are cape-less and brown all over.
Sightseeing
During my 6 days in Eritrea, I visited the following locations:
Asmara
A view of Harnet street, the main street of Asmara, with Asmara cathedral in the background.
Wonderful, charming and inviting! That is Asmara!
Home to 970,000 souls, Asmara is the capital city of Eritrea, located in the central highlands of the country. The city has a rich history and a unique blend of architectural styles, reflecting the diverse cultural influences that have shaped its development over the centuries.
The iconic, Cinema Impero, is one of many Italian-built art-deco cinemas to be found in Asmara.
Asmara was founded in the late 19th century as a small village, but it quickly grew into a bustling centre of commerce and trade.
The city was occupied by Italy in the early 20th century, and it was during this period that many of its most iconic buildings were constructed, including the Art Deco Cinema Impero, the Futurist Fiat Taglierobuilding, and the Romanesque-style AsmaraCathedral.
Wrecked plane engines in the Tank Graveyard in Asmara.
During the Italian colonial era, Africans tourists from surrounding countries would visit Asmara to shop in its many Italian boutiques and to wine and dine in its many Italian restaurants. The city offered a slice of ‘Bella Roma’ in the Horn of Africa.
One of the highlights of Asmara is its unique architecture, which is a blend of Italian, Art Deco, and modernist styles. The city’s buildings, which are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are known for their colourful facades, ornate balconies and intricate details.
A wrecked tank on the side of the highway outside Asmara.
Overall, Asmara is a charming and fascinating city that offers a unique blend of history, culture, and architecture. An elderly Italian tourist commented to me that the city reminded him of Rome in the 1950’s.
Asmara Tank Graveyard
The tank graveyard in Asmara is home to 1000’s of pieces of destroyed military equipment.
The Tank Graveyard in Asmara is a site located on the outskirts of the city that contains 1000’s of destroyed and abandoned military tanks, armored vehicles, and other war machines.
Destroyed tanks, stacked on top of each other, in the Tank Graveyard in Asmara.
The tanks are remnants of the Eritrean War of Independence, which was fought between Eritrean rebels and Ethiopian forces from 1961 to 1991.
The Tank Graveyard is home to a colossal collection of destroyed military equipment.
The Tank Graveyard is an eerie and desolate place, with rusting tanks scattered across a barren landscape.
Besides tanks, there are many wrecked planes in the graveyard.
Many of the tanks are heavily damaged or have been stripped of parts, and the site is a haunting reminder of the violence and destruction that occurred during the war.
Wrecks upon wrecks at the Tank Graveyard in Asmara.
Despite its grim appearance, the Tank Graveyard is a fascinating sight – one of my favourite sights to photograph in Eritrea.
When will mankind learn that there are no winners from war?
It also serves as a reminder that there are no winners in war!
A haunting and eerie sight – the Tank Graveyard in Asmara.
Fiat Tagliero Building
Designed by the Italian architect Giuseppe Pettazzi in 1938, the Fiat Tagliero Building is considered one of the most important examples of Futurist architecture in the world.
The Fiat Tagliero Building is an iconic landmark located in downtown Asmara.
A truly impressive sight (love those unsupported, cantilevered wings), it was designed by the Italian architect Giuseppe Pettazzi in 1938 and is considered one of the most important examples of Futurist architecture in the world.
The Fiat Tagliero Building was originally built as a petrol station and car service centre for the Italian car manufacturer Fiat.
The building is characterized by its striking shape, which resembles an airplane with its wings spread.
The central portion of the building houses an impressive cantilevered roof that extends 15 metres without any visible supports. This feature gives the building a sense of weightlessness and creates an impression of movement and speed.
The Fiat Tagliero Building in Asmara.
The Fiat Tagliero Building was originally built as a petrol station and car service centre for the Italian car manufacturer Fiat.
It is an impressive example of Italian Rationalism, a design movement that favored simplicity, functionality, and modern materials such as reinforced concrete.
Detail of the central tower of the Fiat Tagliero Building.
The Fiat Tagliero Building is a testament to the vision and creativity of Giuseppe Pettazzi and serves as a reminder of Asmara’s unique architectural legacy – a legacy which has resulted in the city’s iconic buildings being listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Asmara Cathedral
The Italian-built Asmara cathedral was constructed in the 1920’s and is considered to be one of the finest Lombard/ Romanesque style churches outside Italy.
Asmara Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Rosary, is a Catholic cathedral located in downtown Asmara.
It is considered to be one of the most important religious and architectural landmarks in Eritrea.
A view of the roof and belltower of Asmara cathedral.
The Cathedral was constructed from 1921 to September 1923 and was inaugurated in 1923, and is thought to be one of the finest Lombard/ Romanesque style churches outside Italy.
A view of the interior of Asmara cathedral.
The cathedral is an impressive example of Italian colonial architecture, blending Romanesque and Baroque styles with traditional African elements.
The interior of the cathedral features marble floors, stained glass windows, and ornate altars.
A view of the central dome of Asmara cathedral.
Cinema Roma
The Italian-built, 1930’s-era, Cinema Roma is considered one of the most significant examples of Art Deco architecture in Eritrea.
Cinema Roma is an historic cinema located in downtown Asmara.
It was built during the Italian colonial period in the early 1930s and is considered one of the most significant examples of Art Deco architecture in the country.
During the time of my visit, Cinema Roma was hosting a Euro Film festival.
The cinema was designed by the Italian architect Mario Messina and features a distinctive façade that is typical of the Art Deco style.
The lobby of the Cinema Roma in Asmara.
The interior of the cinema is equally impressive, with a spacious auditorium that can seat over 1,200 people, as well as a balcony and a VIP area.
The plush-red auditorium provides seating for 1,200 people.
Cinema staff granted me special access to the upstairs balcony, and VIP room, so that I could take photos of the entire auditorium.
My guide commented, that I must be a VIP since it was the first time ever that he had been granted access to the balcony!
I was granted special access to take photos of the auditorium from the upstairs balcony.
Cinema Roma was once a thriving entertainment venue and played an important role in the cultural life of Asmara.
It screened a wide range of films, including Italian, American, and local productions, and was a popular destination for moviegoers from across the city.
A view of the beautiful café, that graces the lobby of Cinema Roma in Asmara.
Over the years, the cinema hosted a number of special events, such as premieres and film festivals, and even served as a venue for political meetings and rallies.
Photos of legendary stars line the walls of Cinema Roma.
Today, Cinema Roma stands as a symbol of Asmara’s rich cultural heritage and is considered a national treasure. It was a joy to be able to photograph such a beautiful building.
The lobby of Cinema Roma.
Bar Zili
Said to resemble an old-style radio, the Art-deco Bar Zilli was built during the late stages of Italian colonial rule.
Another iconic art-deco building is Bar Zilli which was built during the final days of Italian rule. It has been suggested by some that the building resembles an old-fashioned radio set, with windows like tuning buttons.
Asmara Commonwealth War Cemetery
The entrance to the Asmara Commonwealth War Cemetery.
Located on the outskirts of Asmara, on the highway to Massawa, the Asmara Commonwealth War Cemetery is the final resting place for British and Commonwealth soldiers who died while fighting the Italians during WWII.
One of the most striking features of the cemetery is the Cross of Sacrifice, a tall stone cross that stands at the centre of the cemetery.
The cemetery covers an area of about 3.5 acres and contains over 400 graves, many of which are marked with simple white headstones.
I was given a comprehensive tour of the cemetery by the enthusiastic caretaker who was keen to share his knowledge of all those who are buried at the cemetery.
The cemetery caretaker, showing me a register of all buried soldiers.
The cemetery is maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, which ensures that the graves are kept in good condition and that the memories of those who fought and died in the service of their country are properly honoured.
A register of soldiers buried at the Asmara Commonwealth War cemetery.
The Asmara Commonwealth War Cemetery serves as a poignant reminder of the sacrifices made by the soldiers and civilians who fought and died during World War II and the period of British administration in Eritrea.
Massawa
Located in front of the former Banco d’Italia building in Massawa, this empty plinth once featured a statue of Haile Selassie.
Massawa is a port city located on the Red Sea coast of Eritrea, about 120 kilometres southeast of Asmara.
Sunset over the Red Sea port city of Massawa.
The city has a long and rich history dating back to ancient times, and it has been an important centre of trade and commerce for centuries.
Residents of Massawa old town continue to live among the remains of war-ravaged buildings.
Massawa was a major trading hub during the Axumite period, and it continued to thrive during the Islamic period, when it became an important centre of Islamic learning and culture.
Children, living among the ruined buildings in Massawa old town.
The city was also a key port of call on the trade routes between Europe, the Middle East, and Asia.
Remains of a shop in Massawa old town.
Massawa’s architecture is a testament to its long history, with buildings that reflect the diverse cultural influences that have shaped the city over the centuries.
Massawa old town is a treasure trove of different architectural styles.
The city’s narrow streets and alleyways are lined with colourful, ornate buildings that range in style from traditional African to Ottoman, Egyptian and Italian colonial.
An Ottoman-era building in Massawa old town.
The Ottomans, who first captured Massawa in 1557, tried to extend their control inland but failed.
An old St. Vincent-registered boat in Massawa port.
They instead focused their efforts on building monumental buildings around Massawa port with the intention of converting the town into a leading Red Sea trade centre.
An Ottoman-era building in Massawa.
Many fine examples of Ottoman architecture lay in ruin today, following the bombardments during the War of Independence.
A mosque in Massawa old town.
Most of the buildings of the old town have been constructed using coral stone from nearby quarries.
An ornate Ottoman-era building in Massawa old town.
Unfortunately, in 1991, Massawa was heavily bombed by the Ethiopian air force in the final days of the 30-year War of Independence.
A crumbling, neglected architectural jewel in Massawa old town.
Even after more than 30 years, most buildings in the old town remain war-ravaged, with residents living on the ground floor of homes, whose upper levels have been destroyed by bombs.
An abandoned building in Massawa old town.
With my guide Bairu, I did a walking tour of Massawa old town, visiting some of the iconic architectural gems which still lay destroyed following the bombing of the city.
Details of an abandoned building in Massawa old town.
A treasure trove of architectural gems from many different occupiers, the old town of Massawa would be an amazing sight if ever fully renovated.
Imperial Palace
The war-ravaged remains of the Imperial Palace in Massawa.
Across the road from the Grand Dahlak Hotel, overlooking the harbour, the war-ravaged Imperial Palace was built by the Turkish Osdemir Pasha in the 16th century.
The ruins of the Imperial Palace stand at the entrance to Massawa old town.
The present building dates from 1872, when it was built for the Swiss adventurer Werner Munzinger. For any Swiss readers, Herr Munzinger was a native of Olten.
A view of the main entrance to the Imperial Palace.
During the federation with Ethiopia, the palace was used as a winter palace by Emperor Haile Selassie, whose imperial lions still stand guard at the palace entrance.
Installed during the reign of Emperor Haile Selassie, imperial lions guard the entrance to the Imperial Palace in Massawa.
A view of the interior of the Imperial Palace.
Former Banco d’Italia Building
The iconic Banca d’Italia building was originally built by the Italians in the 1920’s.
Located across from the entrance to Massawa port, the very grand and imposing Banca d’Italia (Bank of Italy) building was originally built by the Italians in the 1920’s.
For decades, it served as the largest bank under the Italian administration and was later renamed to Haile Selassie Bank under Ethiopian occupation. An empty plinth in front of the bank once featured a statue of Haile Selassie.
In 1991, in the final days of the War of Independence, the building was severely destroyed by Soviet and Ethiopian bombardments.
A view of the war-ravaged main entrance to the Banca d’Italia building in Massawa.
In 2011, a plan was unveiled to completely renovate/ rebuild this iconic building, converting it into a hotel featuring eight luxury suites. However, as of 2023, the building remains in ruin.
Tank Memorial
The Tank Memorial in Massawa, features three tanks which were used to defeat Ethiopian forces in 1990.
Located in Massawa new town, the imposing Tank War Memorial features three tanks (Tiger, Jogar, Commander) that were instrumental in the liberation of Massawa during OperationFenkel in February 1990.
Also known as the Second Battle of Massawa, the tanks were used by Eritrean forces to block the causeway connecting Massawa to the mainland. These same forces were then able to force Ethiopian forces to retreat inland, surrendering Massawa.
Asmara-Massawa Railway
A painting, in a café in Keren, shows the Asmara to Massawa railway.
The Eritrean railway system was built by the Italian colonists who ruled the country from the end of the 19th century until the end of World War II.
One of many Italian-built stone viaducts which lie on the Asmara to Massawa rail line.
Its construction began in Autumn 1887. Originally, the colonists were planning to use the train for the purposes of moving their military personnel as well as to carry minerals from the many mines which they were exploiting all over Eritrea.
It is in 1911 that the train finally connected Asmara, the capital, to Massawa. At its peak, the system had over thirty-nine tunnels, sixty-five bridges and had trains operating on a regular daily basis.
One of many stone viaducts on the Asmara to Massawa railway.
During the War of Independence, the line was severely damaged. It was partially restored in 2003 but has never fully operated since that time. The many impressive stone bridges and tunnels can still be seen while driving along the highway between Asmara and Massawa.
Today, the only way to travel between Asmara and Massawa is on the congested highway which winds its way down from the highlands onto the coastal plain.
Keren
An exterior view of San Antonios (St. Anthony’s) church in Keren, Eritrea.
The town of Keren has a long and rich history dating back to ancient times. It is believed to have been inhabited by different ethnic groups, including the Saho, Tigre, and Tigrinya peoples, who were predominantly agriculturalists and pastoralists.
A view of Keren city and St. Antonios church.
In the 19th century, Keren became an important centre of commerce and trade, with the establishment of a market that attracted traders from neighboring areas.
A Jacaranda tree in bloom in a church courtyard in Keren.
From Keren, highway P2 leads west to the Sudanese border, although this land border is currently closed!
Revolutionary artwork, and a lazy donkey, in downtown Keren.
Keren played a significant role in the struggle against Italian colonisation in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, as it was a base for many Eritrean resistance fighters.
The best views of Keren are from the rooftop terrace of the Keren Hotel in downtown Keren.
Keren was the location of a key battle in WWII which saw British forces finally defeat the Italians, which led to the Italians relinquishing all control of Eritrea.
The Keren region is home to the Bilan people, who live in distinctly round huts.
After Eritrea gained independence from Ethiopia in 1993, Keren underwent significant development, with the construction of new infrastructure and facilities.
A mural in downtown Keren.
Today, Keren is a vibrant town that attracts visitors from all over the world, who come to enjoy its beautiful architecture, rich history, and cultural diversity.
An Italian-built, art-deco, former cinema in Keren.
Commonwealth War Cemetery
The entrance to the Commonwealth War Cemetery in Keren.
During World War II, Keren was the site of a major battle between the British and Italian forces in February-March 1941. The battle, which lasted for two weeks, resulted in a victory for the British and marked a turning point in the war in East Africa.
It was this victory which led to Italy surrendering all claims on Eritrea.
Memorial cross at the Commonwealth War cemetery in Keren.
Located on the outskirts of town, a perfectly maintained Commonwealth War Cemetery is the final resting place for British and Commonwealth forces who died during WWII in Keren.
The cemetery gate is normally closed but visitors are able to enter. The ground staff are very friendly and will be happy to show you around.
Gravestone at the Commonwealth war cemetery in Keren.
Mariam Dearit Shrine
The Mariam Dearit Shrine is built into the hollow of a large baobab tree.
Located on the outskirts of Keren, the Shrine of Mariam Dearit, also known as the Madonna of the Baobab, is situated in a naturally hollow trunk of a large baobab tree.
A view of the Mariam Dearit Shrine, inside the hollow of a baobab tree.
Said to be more than 500-years-old, this Catholic shrine is extremely popular with locals and visiting Eritreans, and there’s also a small chapel on site for ceremonies or prayers.
The Mariam Dearit Shrine, inside the baobab tree.
If coming from town, it would be best to come with your own transport or with a taxi. The shrine compound is located about 5km from town, in the most unlikely location. The taxi driver should wait for you!
Jacaranda trees line the highway between Keren and Asmara.
Qohaito
Ruins from the ancient city of Qohaito, which flourished in the 8th century BCE.
Located about 140km (2-hours) south-east of Asmara, close to the Ethiopian border, in the Debub region, Qohaito is an ancient city which dates back to the pre-Aksumite period, around the 8th century BCE.
Temple ruins at Qohaito.
Qohaito was one of the largest and most powerful cities in the Horn of Africa during its heyday, and its ruins still bear witness to its past glory.
The city was built on a hill surrounded by fertile plains and was strategically located along major trade routes connecting the Red Sea coast to the interior of the African continent.
A track, used by ancient camel caravans, leads from the depths of Great Rift Valley up to the plateau.
Located at 2,500 metres above sea level, on a high plateau, at the edge of the Great Rift Valley, Qohaito lies directly to the west of the ancient Red Sea port of Adulis.
A sandstone-hewn, underground tomb, at Qohaito.
Qohaito, which in Saho means rock, has yet to be excavated or investigated by archaeologists.
In one place, our local guide bounced a boulder onto the ground. This made a hollow sound which indicated that an underground chamber lie below our feet.
Carved stones from an ancient temple lie in wait, ready for archeological investigations.
Several stone structures, which are believed to be pre-Christian era temples, dot the landscape. An underground tomb, carved out of sandstone, awaits investigation.
Nothing is known about this tomb. The whole site is currently a mystery.
The area today is sparsely inhabited by a few villagers from the Saho and Tigrigna ethnic groups.
Stone columns, from a pre-Christian era temple, at Qohaito.
I drove to Qohaito with my guide and driver in a 4WD, which is required as the ruins lie about 20km off the main highway, at the end of a rough, unsealed, road.
It is impossible to reach this site using public transport.
A view of the Great Rift Valley from the plateau at Qohaito.
Once we arrived at a nearby village, we were required to pick up a mandatory government guide, who escorted us during our visit.
An ancient dam at Qohaito, which is said to be more than 2,500 years old.
The first site we visited was a dry dam which was built more than 2,500 years ago. The dam features the original basalt-stone walls which were used to retain water.
A view of the Great Rift Valley from the plateau at Qohaito.
From the dam, we drove to the edge of the plateau which affords the most stunning views of the Great Rift Valley, which lies 500 metres below.
From the Qohaito plateau, it’s a 500-metre drop into the Great Rift Valley.
Eating Out
Cuisine
The staple of Eritrean cuisine, Injera was always served for lunch.
Eritrean cuisine is a fusion of different cultures and influences, reflecting the country’s diverse history and location at the crossroads of Africa, the Middle East, and Europe. Some of the main components of Eritrean cuisine include:
Injera: This is a sourdough flatbread that is a staple of Eritrean cuisine. It is made from teff flour and is served with a variety of stews and sauces.
Tibs: This is a dish of sautéed meat, usually beef or lamb, with onions, garlic, and peppers. It can be served as a main course or as a side dish.
Overall, Eritrean cuisine is flavorful, aromatic, and often spicy. It incorporates a wide range of ingredients and flavors, making it a unique and exciting culinary experience.
Always eaten by hand, Injera is often served with a spicy goat stew.
Restaurants / Cafés
Asmara
Due to its Italian influence, cafés are numerous in Eritrea.
Asmara is home to many restaurants and cafés, with Italian staples such as pasta and pizza featuring on many restaurant menus.
Most cafés in Asmara, such as Bar Gianna, are wonderfully retro.
Like in neighbouring Ethiopia, coffee in Eritrea is served in short glasses, as a very strong Caffè macchiato.
A typically strong Caffè macchiato, served in a café in Asmara.
Keren
Friendly Eritreans, relaxing at the Sweet Corner café in the city of Keren.
The streets of the northern city of Keren are lined with large, shady trees. Establishments, such as the inviting Sweet Corner café, offer seating on the footpaths, underneath these trees, allowing locals to chill and relax on the street.
While in Keren, we spent time relaxing in the garden of this café, where we enjoyed sweet black tea.
Also in downtown Keren, the Ishbilia café offers a relaxed vibe in its small enclosed garden, where glasses of sweet black tea are served with glasses of Ariki.
Adi Keyh
The relaxing garden courtyard at the Milan Restaurant in Adi Keyh.
After the long drive from Asmara to Adi Keyh, we paused in the leafy and green garden at the Milan restaurant, where we enjoyed glasses of sweet black tea.
A male Ruppell’s Weaver, in the garden of the Milan Restaurant at Adi Keyh.
The garden was especially active with bird life, including a male Ruppell’s Weaver, which was clearly checking me out.
The interior of the Milan Restaurant in Adi Keyh.
Bars
Just as Italy, where cafés serve as bars and bars serve as cafes, so too in Eritrea, alcohol is freely available in any café.
Within Eritrea, Asmara beer is always sold in a brown, unlabeled, bottle.
All alcohol is produced by the Asmara brewery who brew just one type of beer, a pale lager which is traditionally brewed using malted barley, hops and the purest of mountain water. It is a very smooth and highly quaffable beer.
However, exported Asmara beer is always labelled.
Within Eritrea, the beer is always sold in its distinctive brown bottle without any label. Labelled bottles are reserved for export with the beer being popular in Europe.
Asmara Brewery produces a range of popular alcoholic beverages.
Besides beer, Asmara brewery produces a range of alcoholic beverages including gin, cognac and Fernet-Branca.
Drinking Ariki, and a tea, in a tea house in Massawa.
However, Asmara brewery is best known for producing Ariki, a very smooth, aniseed-flavored spirit. Very popular, Ariki is consumed on any occasion and is popular in tea houses as a side drink.
After sunset, outdoor bars/ restaurants open up along the corniche in Massawa old town.
While waiting to board my flight from Asmara to Addis Ababa, many Eritreans were buying up bottles of Ariki from the duty-free shop. A distinct aniseed aroma could be smelt throughout the airport waiting lounge.
Nightlife
Eritrean nightlife at a restaurant in the Asmara Expo grounds.
If you would like to experience Eritrean nightlife, you can do this is at a couple of restaurants/ nightclubs which are located inside the Asmara Expo grounds.
I attended one such restaurant with Captain Kahsai.
After dining on the finest Injera, we adjourned to a darkened room where local musicians were playing traditional musical instruments and the waitresses demonstrated traditional Eritrean dances.
Accommodation
My tour package included accommodation at the deluxe Asmara Palace Hotel, the best hotel in Eritrea.
Accommodation options in Eritrea vary from basic to luxury. There is something to suit every budget, although the budget hotels can be scary!
Since I was travelling on a tour, my hotels were included in my package. During my time in Eritrea, I stayed at the Asmara Palace hotel and the Grand Dahlak hotel in Massawa.
Asmara Palace Hotel
A view of my spacious and comfortable room at the Asmara Palace Hotel.
Asmara Palace Hotel is a luxurious hotel located in the heart of Asmara, a short, 5-minute, drive from Asmara International Airport.
This is the best accommodation option in Eritrea with rooms costing around US$120 per night. This includes a decent buffet breakfast – plus Wi-Fi (a real treat in Eritrea). My tour included 4 nights at the Asmara Palace hotel.
A view of the reception desk at the Asmara Palace Hotel.
The Asmara Palace hotel features 186 comfortable and spacious rooms and suites, each designed with comfort in mind. My bed was especially comfortable and enticing, but with a busy sightseeing schedule, I had little time to relax.
A view of the atrium at the Asmara Palace hotel.
The hotel is housed in a grand building that was originally constructed in the 1930s and has been renovated many times since.
The hotel offers modern amenities and good service, making it a popular destination for business travellers, tourists, and locals alike.
During my stay, I was the only tourist staying at the hotel. Most guests were in town on business, including a team from the UN.
To honour my stay, the Australian flag was flown outside the Asmara Palace hotel.
In honour of my visit, the Australian flag was flown outside the hotel – the 2nd time this has happened. The first time this happened was during my stay at a hotel in Mariehamn, the capital of the Åland Island.
The view, from the balcony of my room, which shows the glass enclosure of the indoor pool, the outdoor pool and the tennis courts in the rear.
Asmara Palace Hotel also offers a range of recreational facilities, including a large indoor swimming pool, an outdoor pool, a fitness centre, a spa and two tennis courts. The facilities seemed to be used more by visiting locals than by the guests themselves.
The hotel restaurant serves a variety of local and international cuisine, with the salads being especially good. Most fresh produce in Eritrea is served straight from local farms with vegetables and salads being crisp and full of flavour.
The Asmara Palace hotel offers the best accommodation in Eritrea.
Overall, Asmara Palace Hotel is a luxurious and elegant hotel that offers a unique blend of modern amenities and traditional charm.
I enjoyed my stay here and really didn’t want to leave!
Grand Dahlak Hotel
The entrance to the not-so-grand ‘Grand Dahlak Hotel’ in Massawa.
Despite its name, there is nothing ‘grand’ about the Grand Dahlak Hotel. This former grande dame might once have been a shiny beacon of hospitality, but its star faded long ago.
The lobby of the Grand Dahlak hotel.
A forlorn air hangs heavy over this hotel, with its lethargic staff wilting in the still, mid-day heat. The once grandiose reception area is now dusty and silent while the large swimming pool has been empty for years.
My less-than-appealing room at the Grand Dahlak hotel.
Upstairs, the rooms are old, tired and in need of a complete renovation.
In terms of comfort and hospitality, the Grand Dahlak hotel is at the opposite end of the spectrum to the Asmara Palace Hotel.
Outside the gates of the Grand Dahlak Hotel, the tree-lined streets of Massawa new town are eerily quiet.
Breakfast is served at an outdoor café next to the pool. Diners are fully at the mercy of a flock of ravenous black ravens who perch themselves at vantage points around the café, waiting for an opportunity to swoop and steal your breakfast.
One poor Italian man left his table for 1 minute to collect a cup of coffee. When he returned, his entire breakfast had been air-lifted away by a team of kamikaze ravens.
It was hilarious watching a raven trying to fly while holding onto a huge slice of toast bread and at the same time fending off attacks by his hungry mates.
Interestingly, the Italian hadn’t noticed anything was a-miss until he went to pick up his toast and realised everything was gone!
The empty pool at the Grand Dahlak Hotel in Massawa.
There is nothing inviting or enticing about the Grand Dahlak hotel and I was happy that I spent just one night there!
Sadly, the Grand Dahlak hotel is the best hotel in Massawa!
Visa Requirements
My Eritrean visa, which was issued upon arrival at Asmara International Airport.
Tricky! Almost all nationalities require a visa to enter Eritrea and they can be notoriously difficult to obtain if you apply through an embassy.
I used the services of Damera Tours who secured a visa authorisation, without fuss, in 10 days.
It is important that you do not make any travel arrangements to Eritrea until you have first secured the visa authorisation.
Visa Application Process
The following steps describe the Eritrea visa application process:
I first completed a Visa Application form which was emailed to me by Damera Tours.
After waiting 10 days, I received a Visa Authorisation via email. The fee for this is included in the cost of the tour.
Once I had the authorisation, I was then free to book a return flight to Asmara and confirm my tour arrangements with Damera tours.
I printed the Visa Authorisation form and presented it to the immigration officer upon arrival at Asmara International airport.
At the airport, I was handed a new visa application form which I had to complete.
I was required to pay the visa fee of USD$70 (in cash) and provide a passport-size photo.
After about 45 minutes, I received my passport with a tourist visa which was valid for a stay of 30 days.
Damera Tours Visa Service
The key benefit of using the services of Damera tours is that Captain Kahsai, who is well connected in Eritrea, takes care of your visa authorisation. He assured me that he has a good success rate!
As part of the visa process, Damera tours emailed me a visa application form, which I completed and returned.
After a period of 10 days, I received my visa authorisation form.
My Eritrean Visa authorisation form, which I received via email.
Pictured above, the visa authorisation (fee included in the cost of your tour) simply allows you board a flight to Asmara.
Upon arrival at Asmara International airport, you will be handed a fresh application form which needs to be completed and submitted, along with one photo and US$70 in cash. You will then be issued with a full-page sticker visa in your passport, valid for a stay of 30 days.
In order to use the visa service of Damera tours, you will need to book a tour. Captain Kahsai can tailor a tour to suit your needs with tours starting at just 3 days.
The average cost of a tour is US$200 per day, which includes everything, except meals and personal expenses.
Important Tip:
Once you have completed your tour, you are free to remain in Eritrea and travel independently.
A tourist visa is valid for a stay of 30 days.
Two identical visa receipts, which total US$70.
Note for US Passport Holders:
While in Eritrea, I was told that the visa rejection rate for US passport holders is quite high.
This is due to the fact that the United States government imposed sanctions on the Eritrean government in November of 2021 due to its role in the Tigray War in neighbouring Ethiopia.
If you are a US citizen, who is fortunate enough to own a 2nd passport, you should apply for an Eritrean visa using your non-US passport.
Getting There
Air
With all land borders closed, the only way to enter Eritrea is by flying into Asmara International Airport (IATA: ASM), the only airport in Eritrea.
With Eritrean Airlines currently grounded due to safety issues, Ethiopian Airlines are currently the de-facto airline of Eritrea, operating 17 flights per week between Addis Ababa and Asmara.
Included in the hefty ticket price is a ‘fee’ which Ethiopian airlines pay to the Eritrean government for the privilege of flying 17 times per week.
A standard return ticket between Addis and Asmara can cost up to US$500 for the 90-minute flight!
The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from Asmara:
The Asmara Palace hotel sends a shuttle bus to meet all incoming flights. If you are staying at the hotel, airport transfers are free. It’s a 5-minute drive from the airport to the hotel.
Yellow city taxis can also be found outside the airport. The fare should be negotiated before you commence your journey!
Land
Despite sharing land borders with Sudan, Ethiopia and Djibouti, all land borders are currently closed to tourists.
Sea
No scheduled passenger ships arrive at Massawa port.
Getting Around
An Italian-built bridge on the highway from Asmara to Massawa.
Much of the infrastructure which exists in Eritrea today was built by the Italians during their occupation of the country from 1882 to 1941.
An out-of-use railway viaduct lies alongside the Asmara to Massawa highway.
The Italian-built highway, which connects Asmara to the Red Sea coast at Massawa, follows alongside the Italian-built rail line, which has been closed for many years.
The Asmara to Massawa highway is congested with slow-moving trucks which haul goods up and down the mountains.
The highway which links the country’s capital to its only port is congested with trucks which haul goods up and down the mountains.
Many of the trucks (including two pictured above) carry locked containers which contain raw gold ore. While there are many gold mines in Eritrea, there is no smelter facility for processing the raw ore.
The only way to process the raw ore is to have a fleet of trucks haul the ore down to the port, where it is exported for processing.
A view of the Asmara to Massawa highway, as it crosses the coastal plain near Massawa.
The mandatory ‘travel permit’ is issued at this Tourist Information office in downtown Asmara.
Important:
Eritrea presents plenty of obstacles for the traveller. One such obstacle is the Travel Permit.
In order to travel outside of Asmara, you will need to apply for a travel permit. Without this permit, you will not get far and will be forced to return to Asmara.
The permit is issued at the Tourist Information office in downtown Asmara. You will need to present your passport and in return you’ll be issued with a travel permit.
You should ensure you make many photocopies of this permit as a copy can be requested, and retained, at the many highway checkpoints.
A benefit of travelling with Damera Tours was that they took care of the permit for me and they managed the checks at the various checkpoints. I would guess that in a week of travelling, they handed out a dozen copies of my travel permit.
In the town of Adi Keyh, the administrative centre for the Debub region, we stopped outside a non-descript building and waited while my guide submitted a copy of my travel permit to an official inside the building. Who would have known that was a requirement?
Bicycles
Cycling is the biggest sport in Eritrea, and its cyclists are the best in Africa – and increasingly among the best in the world.
A legacy of the Italian occupation, bicycles are the most popular form of transport in Eritrea. Like China 30 years ago, the streets of Asmara are full of people riding their bicycles.
Eritreans became fascinated with the sport of cycling when they watched Italian cyclists racing in the streets in the 1930s when their country was an Italian colony.
Apart from recreational riding, the sport of cycling is the #1 sport in Eritrea.
Due to its mountainous terrain, the highways in the countryside are the perfect place for racing teams to hone their skills and improve their endurance.
While travelling on the road from Asmara, down to Massawa, we passed dozens of teams racing up and down the mountains.
Bus
Public buses connect Asmara with all towns in Eritrea.
Inter-city buses connect Asmara with all major towns. Buses depart when full.
Taxi
Ubiquitous yellow taxis can be found everywhere in Asmara.
Yellow taxis are plentiful and everywhere.
Fares should be negotiated in advance!
Train
There are currently no trains operating in Eritrea.
Rental Cars
While there are a few rental car companies in Eritrea, including at the Asmara Palace Hotel, tourists are currently unable to rent cars by themselves. You can however rent a car with a driver!
That’s the end of my travel guide for Eritrea. If you have any comments or feedback, please contact me using the comment form below.
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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 35 years and, 214 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is a Socotra Travel Guide by taste2travel.com
Date Visited: September 2022
Introduction
While a civil war rages on in Yemen, there is one part of that country which is completely safe to visit – Socotra.
The stunning beach, which I had to myself, at Detwah Lagoon.
Visas are required by almost all nationalities (see the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section below for more details) and can only be obtained through local tour operators, once you have signed up for a tour.
The only way of visiting Socotra is by joining an all-inclusive, 8-day, camping tour. The tours correspond with the once-per-week UAE government charter flight from Abu Dhabi, which operates each Tuesday.
As of September 2022, the cost of an 8-day tour, plus return airfare from Abu Dhabi is US$2,360 (1 pax tour) or US$1,910 (2 or more pax sharing a tour).
All costs have to be paid in USD cash, although there is an option to pay for your flight via bank transfer. Full details on all of this are included in the sections below.
Arher beach is a typical Socotran beach – spectacularly beautiful and completely deserted.
Socotra is an ancient land which broke away from the African mainland in the days of Gondwana.
Despite being located alongside one of the busiest shipping channels in the world, at the point where the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea meet, Socotra remains firmly off-the-grid, with the locals living a traditional life which hasn’t changed for centuries.
Arriving on Socotra from the glitzy, modern, world of Abu Dhabi is definitely a culture shock! Travelling to the island is like travelling through a wormhole – back into a way of life which existed in the 19th century!
Bottle trees come in all shapes and sizes.
Socotra is a sparsely populated, mostly undeveloped island, which is home to about 50,000 souls, most of whom live in traditional villages.
The only places on the island where you will find electricity are the two towns – Hadiboh and Qalansiya, which have a combined population of 12,000 souls and many more goats.
Elsewhere, some villages have solar panels and are able to generate some electricity.
Would you like to have this beach to yourself? Detwah Lagoon beach, Socotra.
The only accommodation, shops, banks and services are in Hadiboh. If you require something as simple as a power outlet for charging anything (e.g. camera batteries), you will need to return to either Hadiboh or Qalansiya.
As for communications – internet and telephone signal is almost non-existent on Socotra. The only signal towers are in the two towns but even there, the Wi-Fi signal is very weak.
Outside of the towns, the only chance locals have of getting a phone signal is by driving to a high point. They all know the places which provide the best signal.
Hayf and Zahek Sand Dunes are a highlight of the south coast of Socotra.
A trip to Socotra is all about disconnecting from the outside world and forgetting about making daily updates to your Instagram Story. The only time I could reconnect to the internet was upon my return to Abu Dhabi.
A swimming pool to myself at beautiful Wadi Kalysan.
From the weird flora, to the most spectacular of landscapes, Socotra offers plenty of jaw-droppingly beautiful sights. This is an island which is renowned for its strange, otherworldly landscapes – unlike anywhere else on planet Earth.
Beautiful Hala beach, a typical beach on the east coast of Socotra.
Recognising the significance of the island to humanity, UNESCO declared all of Socotra a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.
The Dragon’s blood tree is THE iconic image of Socotra Island.
Socotra is an ancient land with alien landscapes – a dazzling gem in the Indian Ocean, which remains largely untouched and unaffected by the modern world – a rewarding travel destination for truly intrepid travellers!
Location
Hadiboh, Yemen
Socotra is an island of the Republic of Yemen in the Indian Ocean. Despite Yemen being a part of the Middle East, Socotra, which lies off the coast of Somalia, and is an extension of the African continent, is considered to be a part of Africa.
Socotra is the largest of the four islands in the Socotra archipelago and represents around 95% of the landmass of the archipelago.
Socotra is famous for its ‘otherworldly’ landscapes.
The island lies 380 km (240 mi) south of the Arabian Peninsula, and measures 132 km (82 mi) in length and 50 km (31 mi) in width. Somalia lies 400 km (250 mi) to the west.
No shortage of stunning beaches on Socotra.
Geography
The vast limestone plateau rises up from the narrow coastal plain on the south coast of Socotra.
Socotra has three geographical terrains: the narrow coastal plains, a limestone plateau and the lofty Hajhir Mountains (1,503 metres (4,931 ft), which rise up behind the main town of Hadiboh.
A large limestone ridge, Socotra is home to many fine white sand beaches.
Safety
Despite an ongoing war on the Yemen mainland, Socotra is safe, peaceful and very inviting.
Is Socotra safe to visit? Yes!
Despite the ongoing war on mainland Yemen, Socotra exists in isolated, peaceful bliss. It is completely safe to visit.
Young girls on Socotra.
The local Soqotri people are very welcoming and friendly and love seeing tourists on their island.
Independent Travel
Exploring the south coast of Socotra with Socotra Eco-Tours.
Can you travel independently to Socotra? Not really!
In order to get a visa, and hence a flight ticket, you will need to join an organised tour, run by a local tour operator on Socotra.
Socotra Tour Operator
My tour team from Eco-Tours (left – right), Ali (the guide), Abdulrahman (the driver) and Mohammed (Trainee Guide).
I travelled to Socotra with Socotra Eco-Tours who charge US$1,500 for an 8-day itinerary for a single traveller, or US$1050 for 2 or more travellers.
Tiny Hala beach – one of many amazing beaches on Socotra Island.
The tour cost includes visa, meals, accommodation (rough camping), driver and guide. It is fully escorted from airport pick-up to drop-off.
As a solo traveller, I was free to design my own itinerary.
Socotra tour operators provide tents and bedding plus meals. All campsites are in beautiful locations but mostly have no facilities.
This splendid wadi served as our lunch and bath spot on one day of our camping trip.
Socotra Flights
The weekly Socotra – Abu Dhabi flight at Socotra Airport.
There are currently two options for reaching Socotra:
A weekly flight with Yemenia from Cairo (via mainland Yemen)
A weekly, direct, flight from Abu Dhabi.
If you wish to fly on the Yemenia flight and are having trouble booking a ticket, you can book through Socotra Eco-Tours who act as an agent for the airline.
I flew from Abu Dhabi on what is a UAE Government charter flight which is operated by Emirates Aviation Services (not related to the more famous Emirates Airlines) who use an Air Arabia plane for the service.
The flight operates every Tuesday, leaving Abu Dhabi (Terminal 1) in the morning, returning later in the afternoon. The flight time between Abu Dhabi and Socotra is 2 hours, 15 minutes.
Despite a return ticket costing US$860, this special charter flight is very popular, especially with European tour groups. I was told by a representative from the airline that the flight is sold out from October 2022 to May 2023.
I was able to get a last-minute ticket as I flew in September, just ahead of the main tourist season.
September on Socotra is a wonderful time to visit – before the main tourist season begins.
The best time to travel to Socotra is from September to May. This is when the weather is most stable, although December is the wettest month.
While the weekly flight is reliable from September to May, flights at other times of the year are less reliable, due to strong winds and unfavourable weather.
Travel Costs
The two biggest expenses when travelling to Socotra are the cost of a tour and the airfare.
When travelling to Socotra, the two main expenses are the flight and the tour cost. As outlined in the previous section, these are:
Tour Cost (8-days / All inclusive): US$1,500 (1 pax) or US$1,050 (2 or more pax).
Tour costs must be paid in USD cash upon arrival on Socotra. There are no credit card facilities anywhere on Socotra and banks are almost non-existent.
Return Flight (from Abu Dhabi): US$860
The flight ticket must be paid for in USD cash at the airport on the day of departure, or via bank transfer. I actually met Abdulla Yousef for a coffee at Dubai Mall and paid him directly for my ticket.
Apart from these costs, a little extra USD cash will be required to cover any incidental costs and tips for the tour driver and guide.
If you wish to stay in a hotel in Hadiboh, rather than rough camping every night, a room at the Diamond hotel costs US$30 per night.
People
A school girl, in the 2nd largest town of Qalansiya.
Quite different to the Yemenis on the mainland, the Soqotri people are a Semitic ethnic group native to Socotra. The island has been settled for at least 2,000 years.
A young girl at Diksam plateau.
The Soqotri currently number around 57,000 with most living in remote, rural communities and in the capital and main town of Hadiboh (pop: 8,500). The 2nd largest town is Qalansiya which lies on the west coast and is home to 4,000 souls.
Very shy children at Diksam plateau.
The inhabitants speak the Soqotri language and are mostly Sunni Muslims.
Women on Socotra are rarely seen and are always covered in public.
The modern age has bypassed Socotra, which retains a very traditional way of life. Electricity, internet and shops can only be found in Hadiboh and Qalansiya.
While Socotra is home to 50,000 souls, the goat population is much larger.
Being a traditional Islamic society, women are rarely seen in public and are always covered. While young girls can be photographed, females older than adolescent age cannot!
Wherever I travelled on Socotra, I was surrounded only by men.
Despite the traditional way of life, some Socotran females travel to Egypt, along with many males from the island, to receive a tertiary education. Almost all attend a college in Alexandria and live in student accommodation before returning home. Some females can be found working in Hadiboh.
Houses on Socotra feature colourfully decorated wrought iron doors and windows.
The overwhelming majority of Socotrans live a traditional rural lifestyle, either fishing or raising livestock (goats, sheep, cattle and camels), which allows them to produce milk and meat for themselves and their community. Commerce on the island is minimal.
Being a close-knit community, everyone knows everyone. Wherever we travelled on Socotra, my driver and guide would often stop to say hello to friends.
My guide Ali, posing with the very cute daughter of a friend, in the town of Qalansiya.
There is a close bond between Soqotri which is the result of living a traditional life, isolated from the rest of the world, free from the distractions of a 21st century lifestyle.
Yemen and South Yemen
A map showing North and South Yemen, prior to unification. Source: Wikipedia.
For most of its history, what is today a united Yemen was two different entities – North Yemen and South Yemen.
During the colonial era, North Yemen existed as a state in the Ottoman Empire, with Sanaa serving as its capital, while South Yemen was administered by the British as part of British India. Aden served as the capital of South Yemen, which also included Socotra.
While you travel around Socotra, you will see the flag of South Yemen and rarely the flag of Yemen.
During its day, South Yemen had the distinction of being the only avowedly communist nation in the Middle East, receiving generous foreign aid and other assistance from the Soviets.
The two Yemen’s were eventually united on the 22nd of May 1990, becoming the Republic of Yemen.
The ongoing civil war today sees Iranian-backed (Shia) Houthi forces, which control all of North Yemen, fighting against a coalition of Saudi-backed (Sunni) forces which controls South Yemen.
Russian Tanks
One of many rusty Russian T-34 tanks which line the north coast of Socotra.
Despite the fact that Socotra is today safe, during the 1970-90s, the island was part of South Yemen aka Democratic Yemen, which was a pro-USSR communist state.
To protect the island from any potential invasion from the mainland, the USSR installed several dozen old and rusty T-34 tanks (from the days of WWII), along the north coast. Hardly functional at the time they were installed, these tanks served only as gun turrets.
These broken relics can be seen in various places along the northern coastline.
Flags
The flag of the Republic of Yemen.
The flag of the Republic of Yemen was adopted on May 22, 1990, the day that North Yemen and South Yemen were unified.
The flag is essentially the Arab Liberation Flag of 1952, introduced after the Egyptian Revolution of 1952 in which Arab nationalism was a dominant theme. The same flag is today used by Egypt, Iraq, Sudan and Syria.
According to the official description, the red stands for unity and the bloodshed of martyrs, the white for a bright future, and the black for the supposed dark past.
You will rarely see the Yemen flag on Socotra, where the flag of South Yemen is flown instead.
The flag of South Yemen, officially the People’s Democratic Republic of Yemen.
The Flag of South Yemen is the same as that used by the Republic of Yemen (i.e. the Arab Liberation flag) with the addition of a sky-blue chevron and a red star on the hoist side.
The flag was adopted on 30 November 1967 when South Yemen declared independence from the United Kingdom until the Yemeni unification in 1990.
Today, the South Yemeni flag is used by the separatist supporters from the Southern Movement and the Southern Transitional Council. It is this flag which you will see flown on Socotra.
Currency
The official currency of Yemen is the Yemeni rial.
The official currency of Yemen is the Yemeni rial, which has the international currency code of YER.
Banknotes are issued in denominations of 50, 100, 200, 250, 500 and 1,000 rials.
The Yemeni Civil War has caused the currency to diverge.
In southern Yemen, which is primarily controlled by UAE-backed separatists and the former government backed by Saudi Arabia, ongoing printing has caused the currency to plummet into freefall.
In northern Yemen, which is primarily controlled by Ansar Allah with support from Iran, banknotes printed after 2017 are not considered legal tender, and therefore, the exchange rate has remained stable.
1000 Yemeni rial banknotes.
Exchange Rates
Despite the current advertised exchange rate (on Google) of USD$1 = 250 rial, the exchange rate on Socotra at the time of my visit in September 2022 was:
USD$1 = 1,100 rial
Flora
Dragon’s Blood Tree
Dragon’s blood trees at Homhil Plateau Protected Area, Socotra, Yemen.
Most famous and iconic of all Socotri flora is the Socotran dragon’s blood tree (Dracaena cinnabari). While other species of this tree can be found in other parts of Africa and Arabia, the Socotran dragon’s blood tree is endemic to the island.
Since ancient times its red resin, from which the tree gets its name, has been highly desired.
A view of the Firmihin Forest on Diksam plateau.
The most prolific stand of Dragon’s blood trees on Socotra is in the Firmihin Forest on Diksam plateau.
A view of Dragon’s blood trees and the spectacular gorge at Diksam plateau.
However, during my visit the plateau was always shrouded in mist and fog with constant rain fall, making photography tricky.
Dragon’s blood trees on Homhil, Socotra.
The best photo opportunity was on Homhil where the trees were basking in brilliant sunshine.
Young Dragon’s blood trees in a nursery on Diksam plateau.
While there are many fine examples of Dragon’s blood trees on Diksam plateau, the tree is classified as ‘threatened’. It is believed the many roaming goats on the island love to eat the younger trees.
To counter this threat, a team of Czech researchers has established a protected nursery for young Dragon’s blood trees on Diksam plateau, adjacent to the tourist campsite.
My haul of Dragon’s blood tree resin which I purchased from a village on Diksam plateau.
The red resin from the Dragon’s blood tree has been in continuous use since ancient times as incense, medicine, dye and varnish. Today, villagers on Socotra sell packets of resin to passing tourists. The small haul pictured above cost me about US$3.
Socotran Frankincense Tree
Socotran frankincense trees (Boswellia socotrana) at Homhil Plateau Protected Area, Socotra, Yemen.
Frankincense, the resin produced by a species of Boswellia, was one of the most valuable commodities produced in the ancient world. Highly prized as fragrant incense, it was also widely used in medicine, cosmetics, and even cuisine.
Today, large quantities of Frankincense are traded around the world for use in religious ceremonies and for incense production.
Common to the Horn of Africa and the Arabian Peninsula, the species found on Socotra – Boswellia socotrana – is endemic to the island and is said to produce the best quality resin.
The best examples on Socotra can be found in a small grove at the Homhil Plateau Protected Area.
Socotra Bottle Trees
Bottle trees can be found throughout Socotra Island.
If there is one tree which gives Socotra its otherworldly look then it must be the weird and wacky bottle tree.
Bottle trees are easily distinguished by their swollen trunks.
The species found on Socotra is Adenium obesum varsocotranum, which is a poisonous plant, which explains why the many goats on the island leave it completely alone.
Pink flowers on a bottle tree.
Bottle trees can be found throughout Socotra, taking root in mostly hard limestone rock on vertical cliffs and high mountain plateaus. They also especially like sloping ground.
Flowering Bottle tree on Socotra.
Each year, especially in March, the trees bloom with big, beautiful pink flowers. During my visit in September, I was able to find several flowering trees.
Bottle trees like to grow in precarious locations.
Aloe Jawiyon
Aloe jawiyon is a species of aloe which is endemic to Socotra.
Aloe jawiyon is a species of aloe which is endemic to Socotra and is used by locals for medicinal purposes.
Birds of Socotra
Socotra Starling
Socotra (female) starling.
The Socotra starling can be found throughout the island and always in mating pairs.
Socotra starlings (male on the left, female on the right) pair for life and can always be seen together.
A female Somali starling at Diksam plateau.
Socotra Sparrow
The Socotra sparrow is endemic to Socotra.
The endemic Socotra sparrow has distinct plumage which sets it apart from most other sparrows.
Egyptian Vulture
The widespread Egyptian vulture is a common sight on Socotra.
Egyptian vultures are widespread throughout Socotra, where they can be seen scavenging off rubbish heaps and anything else they can find.
Despite their name, this species of vulture is widespread and can be found in many regions between Spain in the west and India in the east.
Whenever I ate my meals on Socotra, I was quickly surrounded by Egyptian vultures, who were keen for any scraps.
Whenever meals were served at our campsite, shadows would circle overhead. Egyptian vultures looking for a feed!
Eventually they would settle on the ground around me, waiting for any scraps of food. My fellow dining companions during my week of camping!
Sightseeing
My Socotra Eco-Tours team, (left – right) Mohammed, Abdulrahman and Ali.
During my 8 days on Socotra, I covered the sights listed below on a tour with Socotra Eco-Tours.
I travelled in a Toyota 4WD which was expertly driven by the very capable Abdulrahman, who also served as the cook. The tour was led by my guide, Ali who was supported by a trainee guide, Mohammed, who was on a break from his studies in Alexandria, Egypt.
Hadiboh
Fish vendors at the Central fish market in Hadiboh, Socotra.
The first day of the tour started with my arrival on Socotra from Abu Dhabi. After exiting the airport, we drove into Hadiboh to have lunch at the very busy Shabwah Restaurant.
Fresh tuna, seen here at the Central fish market, is always on the menu on Socotra.
The noisy, chaotic, less-than-hygienic, nature of the restaurant was a complete culture shock after many days spent dining in the ritzy malls of the UAE.
Fresh tuna for sale at the Central fish market in Hadiboh.
The capital and biggest town on Socotra is a collection of non-descript breeze-block buildings which line dusty, chaotic streets which are covered in litter. There is no organised rubbish collection on Socotra.
Hadiboh is small but does have some all-purpose shops, banks and currency-exchange facilities, a handful of café/restaurants, a market and a hospital. There are no shops elsewhere on the island! If you need anything for your week of camping, you need to purchase it in Hadiboh.
Handicrafts for sale at the Woman’s Co-operative in Hadiboh.
There are two places of interest which are the municipal fish market, which was built by the UAE government, and a Saudi-supported Women’s Co-operative where locally made handicrafts are offered for sale at very reasonable prices.
Di Hamri Marine Protected Area
A view of the coral-covered beach at the Di Hamri Marine Protected Area.
A short drive east of Hadiboh, the Di Hamri Marine Protected Area is home to an offshore coral reef and is the one place on Socotra where you can go diving with the one certified dive master on Socotra – the very friendly Naseem (Tel: +967 777 801 948).
Sunset at the Di Hamri Marine Protected Area.
Located on a remote peninsula, Du Hamri is home to a small fishing. One of the residents of the village, Naseem, is the dive master.
A fulltime fisherman, Naseem has dive equipment, speaks English, and is happy to take tourists diving.
As a diver, I was keen to dive, but Naseem advised that visibility was very poor at the time of my visit (September) due to the ongoing monsoonal winds which were whipping the island every day during my visit.
He advised that the best months for diving are April and May.
A red mattress, my bed for the night, at the Di Hamri Marine Protected Area, a campsite without any showers or toilets.
The campsite at Di Hamri contains one sturdy building which is currently under construction. I slept the night on a red mattress under the cover of the building, my first night of camping. At the time of my visit there were no facilities such as toilets, showers etc.
Wadi Kalysan
The most amazing freshwater pool on Socotra – Wadi Kalysan.
On the 2nd day of my 8-day trip, we drove from the Di Hamri Marine Protected Area to the remote Kalysan Canyon, which is close to the south coast, with views of the Indian Ocean in the distance.
A view of the Kalysan Canyon, with the Indian Ocean in the background.
A 45-minute hike down into the canyon ended at the stunningly beautiful Wadi Kalysan, where a river of bottle-green, fresh water flows through a canyon of white, polished limestone.
Bottle trees at Wadi Kalysan.
Once again – we had this amazing sight all to ourselves.
The green waters of Wadi Kalysan pass through the very remote Kalysan Canyon.
A great place to swim and relax while Abdulrahman (our driver and cook) prepared lunch back at the camp sight.
Wadi Kalysan – a perfect freshwater swimming pool.
Our driver and cook, Abdulrahman prepared the most amazing Kingfish for lunch at Kalysan Canyon.
Our driver and cook, Abdulrahman, prepared lunch at Kalysan Canyon.
The fish had been caught in the morning at Di Hamri by the dive master, Naseem, who had been out fishing earlier that morning.
Kingfish for lunch at Kalysan Canyon.
I chose to eat my lunch at the edge of the canyon, where I was joined by a number of opportunistic vultures.
My Kingfish lunch, with a view of the Kalysan Canyon and a vulture overhead.
Arher Beach Sand Dunes
A highlight of the east coast of Socotra are the towering white sand dunes which have been blown against the walls of the limestone massif at Arher beach.
A truly impressive sight are the towering white sand dunes at Arher beach.
Like large piles of talcum powder, the sand dunes at Arher beach are 150 metres (500 ft) in height).
Over millions of years, the strong winds which constantly whip the east coast, have blown the powdery white sand up against the cliffs of the limestone massif which runs along the coast.
The sand dunes of Arher beach, Socotra.
Yet another jaw-droppingly beautiful sight on an island which offers so many incredible views!
Sand dunes at Arher beach.
Truly Wow!
Our cave campsite at Arher beach.
Due to strong winds, our plan to camp overnight on the beach had to be abandoned. Instead, we camped in the shelter of a cave which overlooked the beach.
My guide, Ali, serving breakfast in the cave campsite.
Even in the shelter of the cave, the howling winds throughout the night tried their best to blow us all away.
Breakfast each morning usually consisted of flat bread (never fresh of course) with cheese spread and jam. This was served with a furnace of sweet black tea – delicious!
Sunrise over the east coast of Socotra, as seen from our cave campsite.
Hala Beach
Beautiful Hala beach, a typical beach on the east coast of Socotra.
Located on the east coast, a short drive from Arher beach, is the truly beautiful Hala beach.
The only house on Hala beach.
Yet another stunning beach with was deserted when we arrived.
A fisherman, fishing on Hala beach, Socotra.
I managed to take a few photos of the empty beach before a friendly fisherman appeared to demonstrate his fishing skills.
Hala beach – a perfect swimming beach with not a soul in sight – until the friendly fisherman appeared!
He managed to catch a very tiny fish, which he then stuffed in his pocket!
A fisherman at Hala beach, showing me his catch, before he put it in his pocket.
Homhil Plateau Protected Area
A panoramic view of the countryside from Homhil.
Day three saw us climb the first of many steep, rough gravel roads to the Homhil Plateau Protected Area.
Video: The drive down from Homhil.
Homhil is home to a stand of Socotra frankincense trees and many Dragon’s blood trees. Local villagers tap both trees to extract the valuable gum resin.
Frankincense trees on Homhil, Socotra.
Frankincense has been used since ancient times as an incense and fragrance. The Three Wise Men brought gold, frankincense and myrrh to the new-born king. Gold, of course, was valuable as currency, frankincense – a valuable perfume and myrrh – a precious ointment often used in the burial process.
Bottle tree on Homhil.
Today frankincense resin is sold around the world for incense production and religious ceremonies and is especially popular in the Middle East where it can be found in any souk.
Dragon’s blood trees at Homhil.
Photography was best on Homhil since the trees were basking in glorious sunlight – unlike Diksam plateau which was always overcast and foggy.
Diksam Plateau
Dragon’s blood trees on Diksam plateau.
Diksam plateau is home to the largest stand of Socotra Dragon’s blood trees to be found anywhere in the world.
Children on Diksam plateau.
The weather during our two days was constantly overcast, foggy and wet.
Socotra Dragon blood’s trees on the edge of the 700-metre-deep gorge.
For the locals, who live on the dry coastal plain, where it rarely rains, visiting the plateau is a special experience. The cool, wet weather is truly a world away from the arid, blistering hot coast.
Exploring Diksam plateau with Socotra Eco-Tours.
The plateau is dissected by the 700-metre (2,295 ft) deep gorge which drops vertically to the valley floor.
Dragon’s blood trees on Diksam plateau.
On one side of the gorge is the Fermhin forest, home to the largest stand of Socotra Dragon’s blood trees.
My campsite at Diksam plateau.
The village at Diksam plateau is home to a campground which includes a couple of buildings for cooking and sleeping and a toilet and shower facility.
I chose to sleep outside, in a tent, under the protection of one of the buildings – out of the constant drizzle rain.
Dagub Cave
Standing in the entrance of Dagub cave, Ali and Mohammed provide a sense of scale for the two gigantic columns inside the cave.
On an island full of unforgettable sights, Dagub cave was another fascinating stop.
Set into the limestone escarpment which runs along the south coast, this large cavern is completely open to the elements which has resulted in the former stalactites and stalagmites becoming discoloured due to exposure to oxygen and the elements.
The view from within the massive Dagub cave.
The entrance of the cave features two massive columns (i.e. a structure where stalactites and stalagmites have joined together to form a single column). These columns are easily 20 metres in height.
Dagub cave is set in the limestone escarpment which runs along the south coast.
Considering that stalactites and stalagmites grow at approximately 2.5 cm (1 inch) per 1,000 years, these were formed over many millions of years. Today they lie exposed to the elements with vegetation sprouting from them.
The floor of Dagub cave is carpeted in a thick layer of Guano.
Also impressive is the fact that the floor of the cave is completely covered in a thick layer (a least 10 cm) of guano from the many bats and birds which inhabit the caves, the result of millions of years of pooping!
Amazing to see such a valuable resource lying untouched. Only on Socotra!
Amek Beach
Located on the south coast, Amek beach served as our campsite for one night. I got to dine, and sleep, in this newly purchased tent which was wonderful.
Our campsite on the rugged south coast of Socotra was on Amek beach.
The long, exposed beaches on the south coast are pounded by the rough, turbulent waters of the Indian Ocean.
Swimming here is dangerous due to rips and currents.
The best swimming beaches on Socotra are on the north and east coasts which face the much calmer Arabian sea.
The campsite at Amek beach, on the south coast of Socotra.
The campsite at Amek beach features the usual rudimentary structures (no good if it starts raining!) plus an amenities block (pictured in the background) with pit toilets and showers – which are placed directly above the pit toilets!
A curious camel, checking me out, on Amek beach.
Hayf and Zahek Sand Dunes
The magnificent and surreal sand dunes on the south coast of Socotra.
A highlight of the south coast is the beautiful and totally surreal Hayf and Zahek sand dunes. Best photographed early morning or late afternoon when the light is especially moody.
Truly stunning and very special to have such a place to yourself!
Dramatic skies over the Hayf and Zahek sand dunes.
Incredible sand designs and stormy skies at the Hayf and Zahek sand dunes.
A photographer’s dream – the incredible Hayf and Zahek sand dunes.
One more image from the Hayf and Zahek sand dunes.
Qalansiya
A school girl in Qalansiya.
Located at the far western end of Socotra, facing out towards Somalia and Africa, the island’s 2nd largest town, Qalansiya, is a sleepy settlement with nothing too redeeming to offer.
With a population of 4,000 – Qalansiya is the 2nd largest town on Socotra.
Most people drive through the dusty streets of sleepy Qalansiya, on their way to the nearby Detwah Lagoon.
I treated the tour company staff to a delicious lime juice at this shop in Qalansiya.
One stop worth making in Qalansiya is at the local juice shop. I treated the guys to a jug of freshly blended Socotra lime juice – so good in the baking midday heat.
Detwah Lagoon
On an island full of stunning beaches, the beach at Detwah Lagoon is possibly the best!
Wow! Wow! Wow! What a stunning sight!
After a week of driving around Socotra and photographing one amazing beach after another, the finalé came in the form of the spectacular Detwah Lagoon and the adjacent beach, both of which are tucked away behind a rocky hill which rises up behind the town of Qalansiya.
The locals on Socotra do not have a swimming culture and with no development anywhere, the stunning beaches on the island are always empty.
What an amazing sight – and absolutely deserted!
Of course, I had to go for a swim. An incredible experience to have such an amazing beach to myself. Anywhere else in the world, this would be lined with hotels and crammed full with bathers!
With its large granite boulders, the beach at Detwah Lagoon reminded me of beaches in the Seychelles.
Only on Socotra can you have such an idyllic beach to yourself.
An amazing beach to have to yourself!
Alongside the beach is Detwah Lagoon which is home to one family who fish and operate an informal campsite which is used by the different tour companies.
A view of Detwah Lagoon.
From the beach I walked to the campsite which overlooks the beautiful Detwah Lagoon.
A panoramic view of the Detwah Lagoon.
Like other campsites on Socotra, this campsite consists of a few rudimentary structures which allow you to keep out of the blistering sun during the day.
The campsite at Detwah Lagoon where I dined on freshly caught crab for lunch.
The campsite is operated by a young fisherman and his family, who live in the only house to be built on the shores of the lagoon.
The fisherman, who operates the campsite at Detwah Lagoon, offered me a freshly caught crab for lunch.
The fisherman offered me a crab which he had caught in the morning. This was an extra charge for which I paid US$4 – a charge which was totally worth it!
My lunch at Detwah Lagoon included a freshly caught crab.
My crab was served with a plate of rice and pieces of fresh tuna – which were overcooked.
All food on Socotra is served ‘well done’.
The fisherman at Detwah Lagoon showing me a baby stingray which inhabits the lagoon.
The shallow waters of Detwah lagoon provide the perfect nursery for cute baby stingrays. The fisherman showed me one juvenile ray which had a stinger in its tail.
A view of Detwah Lagoon at low tide.
If you’re walking around in the lagoon, its best to shuffle your feet, rather than stepping, which helps to stir up the sandy floor and will force any lurking rays to move on.
Qoba Crater Lake
A view of the Qoba crater lake which lies on the north coast.
Located on the north coast, a short drive from the main road, the Qoba crater lake is an enigma. No one seems to know when this was formed, but the saline water attracts local livestock.
Hajhir Mountains
The lofty peaks of the Hajhir Mountains are often shrouded in cloud.
Forming a towering backdrop to Hadiboh, the Hajhir massif is the highest mountain range on Socotra Island. The highest point of the range is Mashanig peak which lies at approximately 1,500 m (4,900 ft) above sea level.
The road up to the top of the range is a very steep, poorly maintained gravel road which becomes slippery mud as you enter the fog/ cloud zone near the summit of the range.
Our 4WD, shrouded in fog and cloud, at the top of the Hajhir Mountains.
It’s best to check the cloud condition before driving to the top, and best not to go when cloud covers the mountains, although weather conditions at the summit change every 5 minutes.
A view down to the north coast from the Hajhir Mountains.
The drive up the steep, perilous gravel/ mud road takes almost one hour. If the mountain is covered in cloud, there is little to see!
Accommodation
My room at the Diamond hotel in Hadiboh costs US$30 per night.
Socotra Island is largely undeveloped and has been bypassed by the modern age. As such, the standard of everything, including accommodation, cannot be compared to the modern world.
Hotels are generally basic and camping grounds are very rudimentary.
Hotels
There are a few hotels in the main town of Hadiboh but no accommodation options elsewhere. Most tours include a hotel on the last night so you can freshen up before your flight the next morning.
Those who do not wish to participate in camping can instead stay in hotels in Hadiboh and do daytrips each day. This option will cost you extra.
The island is small enough that it can be covered on day trips from Hadiboh.
The following hotels are located in Hadiboh:
Summerland Hotel: the fanciest accommodation on Socotra with rooms starting at US$75.
Diamond Hotel: a good mid-range option with rooms starting at US$30.
Socotra Tourist Hotel
Taj Socotra Tourist Hotel: Tel: +967 5 660 626
Camping
This cave on the east coast served as our campsite one evening.
While camping trips are the norm on Socotra, there are few established camping grounds. In some places, rudimentary shelters have been erected with very basic toilet and shower facilities. In other places, you camp rough, maybe inside a cave.
Eating Out
The best restaurant in Hariboh, the popular Shabwah Restaurant.
In Hadiboh, dining options are very limited, but everywhere you can find sweet, black tea.
A tea shop on Socotra. Tea, or chai is an integral part of life on Socotra.
The most popular restaurant in town is the Shabwah Restaurant which is where all tourists end up dining.
Sharing breakfast, and the largest piece of flatbread I’ve ever seen, at the Shabwah restaurant with my guide Ali.
During my stay on the island, eggs had not been available for weeks. On my last day, eggs were back on the menu at the Shabwah restaurant thanks to a boat which had arrived the day before.
Most meals on Socotra consist of rice with some sort of protein, normally freshly caught fish.
With almost all food imported by dhow boat from mainland Yemen, the island suffers food shortages during the windy season when boats are often cancelled.
Goats are everywhere on Socotra and love to steal your food (or anything else) while you have your back turned.
Special mention should be made of the large number of goats on Socotra – they easily outnumber the human population.
As cute as they look, the free-roaming goats are very mischievous and will steal any food whenever you have your back turned.
This is a problem since all meals on a camping trip are eaten outdoors. The goats are ever-present and will strike whenever you let your guard down.
Shooing away goats is a national pastime on Socotra. Very annoying!
Lime Juice
A deliciously refreshing, icy cool, freshly blended, lime juice in the town of Qalansiya.
Something that should not be missed while on Socotra is the deliciously fresh lime juice, which is freshly blended using Socotra limes.
A blender full of delicious lime juice at a shop in Qalansiya.
The best lime juice on the island can be found at a juice shop in the smaller town of Qalansiya and at the Shabwah Restaurant in Hadiboh.
Visa Requirements
My departure stamp from Socotra.
Almost all nationalities require a visa to visit Yemen.
Currently, 11 nationalities can obtain a visa on arrival. To check your visa requirements, you should refer to the Visa Policy of Yemen.
My Yemen tourist visa.
Visas are included in the cost of a tour and will be emailed to you by your tour operator. The visa needs to be printed and presented upon arrival at Socotra airport.
Upon arrival at Socotra, your passport will be stamped and the bottom section of the visa form will be detached, stamped and handed to you. It’s important to retain this part of the visa which will need to be surrendered upon departure.
Getting There
A view of Socotra Airport.
Air
Air Arabia operate the weekly UAE government charter flight from Abu Dhabi airport.
Just two airlines provide flights to Socotra:
Emirates Aviation Services (UAE government charter flight which uses an Air Arabia airbus): Flies to/ from Abu Dhabi every Tuesday.
Yemeni Airways: flies to/ from Cairo every Wednesday.
A view of Socotra from my Air Arabia flight.
Getting Around
Transport on Socotra is provided by your tour company.
All transport on Socotra is provided by your tour company.
Public transport is very limited with a few minibuses providing infrequent services for locals. Most locals tend to hitch rides by waiting by the roadside.
A Socotra car license plate.
Signage is totally non-existent on the island and with no WiFi signal, navigation apps do not work!
That’s the end of my travel guide for Socotra. If you have any feedback, please do not hesitate to leave a reply below.
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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is a Cape Verde Travel Guide from taste2travel.com
Date Visited: March 2022
Introduction
Rising up from the depths of the Atlantic Ocean, 620 km (385 miles) off the coast of West Africa, the remote and isolated archipelago of Cape Verde remained uninhabited until discovered by the Portuguese in the 15th century.
The stunning Santa Monica beach is one of the finest on Boa Vista.
Once a centre for the African slave trade and an important stopover port for a who’s who of famous navigators, Cape Verde today is redefining itself.
A popular tourism destination offering world-class beaches and resorts, flights carrying European holiday makers arrive every day on the tourism hubs of Sal and Boa Vista. It’s these flights which offer the best value means of accessing what is normally a remote and expensive destination.
The children of Cape Verde love posing for the camera.
Comprised of 10 diverse, volcanic islands, Cape Verde is a fascinating travel destination.
From Creole culture, history, stunning and remote beaches, desert islands, kite surfing, hiking, fishing, scuba diving, snorkelling and so much more – Cape Verde offers something for everyone.
A panoramic view of the ‘Salinas de Pedra de Lume’, a salt mine located inside a volcanic crater.
While on Cape Verde, I had the opportunity to explore the islands of Santiago, Sal and Boa Vista. These are included in this article. I look forward to returning again one day to spend more time exploring the other islands.
Ethnically, Cape Verdeans are a mix of African and Portuguese.
It should be noted that expensive domestic flights are the only means of travel between most islands, although a less-than-reliable ferry service does operate on occasion.
A hand-painted ‘Strela’ beer advertisement, covers the side of a building in Sal Rei, Boa Vista.
Flights are very limited and sell out weeks in advance. If you plan to do any island hopping, you need to book flights well in advance. Please refer to the ‘Getting Around‘ section for more on domestic flights.
A kite surfer enjoying the breezy conditions at the aptly named Kite beach, a major tourist draw on Sal Island.
As for travel costs – Cape Verde is not your typical African destination. It is one of the most developed countries in Africa and, as such, much pricier, with a budget of €100/day (USD$110) being reasonable. This is not a place for those on a shoestring budget!
Location
Praia, Cape Verde
Located 620 km (385 miles) off the west coast of Africa, Cape Verde is named for the westernmost cape of Africa, Cape Verde (French: Cap Vert; Portuguese: Cabo Verde), which is located in nearby Senegal and is the nearest point on the African continent to the island nation.
A map of Cape Verde, indicating the Barlavento and Sotavento island groups. Source: Nations Online Project.
Consisting of 10 islands – nine inhabited, one uninhabited, this archipelago nation is divided into the Barlavento (Windward) group to the north and the Sotavento (Leeward) group to the south.
The Barlavento Islands include Santo Antão, São Vicente, Santa Luzia (which is uninhabited), São Nicolau, Sal, and Boa Vista, together with the islets of Raso and Branco.
The Sotavento Islands include Maio, Santiago, Fogo, and Brava and the three islets called the Rombos—Grande, Luís Carneiro, and Cima.
History
A panoramic view over Cidade Velha from Forte Real de São Filipe, which was built following a raid by Sir Francis Drake.
The Cape Verde archipelago was uninhabited until the 15th century, when Portuguese explorers discovered and colonised the islands in 1456, thus establishing the first European settlement in the tropics.
In 1462, Portuguese settlers arrived on the island of Santiago and founded a settlement they called Ribeira Grande, which is today called Cidade Velha (Old City).
Fishing boats at Cidade Velha, Santiago Island.
The ruins of Cidade Velha, which lies on the south coast, 15 km west of the capital, Praia, are the site of the only UNESCO World Heritage site in Cape Verde.
Due to its location, Cidade Velha was an important stop-over port for a who’s-who of famous navigators. In its heyday, this vital port hosted Christopher Columbus, who spent time here on his 3rd voyage to the Americas. Ferdinand Magellan stopped over at the beginning of what would become his world-record setting circumnavigation of the world.
The port, which was used as a transit warehouse for the storage of riches from the new world, also attracted famous pirates and privateers such as Sir Francis Drake who sacked Cidade Velha and other towns on Santiago between the 11th and 28th of November 1585.
He then continued on to raid and sack various Spanish ports in the Americas. You can read more about the exploits of Sir Francis Drake in my guides to the Dominican Republic and the British Virgin Islands.
The large fort, Forte Real de São Filipe, which overlooks Cidade Velha, was built shortly after the raid by Sir Francis Drake.
Erected in 1512 in the main square of Cidade Velha, the marble Pelourinho was used to punish rebellious slaves by public flogging.
Located a short distance from Africa, Cidade Velha played a significant role in the Atlantic slave trade with many slave ships stopping in the port to gather supplies before sailing across the Atlantic to the New World.
A reminder of the slave trade can be seen in the main square of Cidade Velha where the marble Pelourinho (Portuguese for ‘pillory’), which dates from 1512, was used as a symbol of municipal power, and of slavery, with rebellious slaves being chained up and publicly flogged.
Following the demise of the slave trade, Cape Verde suffered an economic decline. Its fortunes were somewhat revived with it playing a role as a ship re-supply store. Cape Verde was the first stop of Charles Darwin’s epic voyage with the HMS Beagle in 1832.
A sculpture of former Portuguese Governor General Alexandre Alberto da Rocha de Serpa Pinto, Albuquerque Square, Praia, Santiago.
With few resources, and little investment from Portugal, Cape Verdeans became discontent and demands for independence grew.
In 1956, Amilcar Cabral formed an independence movement which had the aim of securing independence for both Cape Verde and Guinea-Bissau (another Portuguese colony in West Africa). On January 20, 1973, Cabral was assassinated.
Cape Verde eventually achieved full independence on July 5, 1975.
People
Children on the island of Boa Vista with their classic mestiço features.
Previously uninhabited, Cape Verde never sustained a native population but has been populated by European and African migrants.
Girls playing among the ruins of Cidade Velha, on the island of Santiago.
The modern population of Cape Verde descends from the mixture of European settlers and African slaves who were brought to the islands to work on Portuguese plantations.
A young girl on the island of Boa Vista.
The overwhelming majority of the population is of mixed European and African descent and is often referred to as mestiço or creole.
Young girls on the island of Santiago. The children of Cape Verde love being photographed.
The last official Census in 2013 recorded a total population of 512,096 inhabitants with almost half (236,000) living on the main island of Santiago.
Visitors can expect to be greeted by warm smiles in Cape Verde.
The capital, Praia, is home to a quarter of the country’s population, while the population of the islands of Sal and Boa Vista is 40,000 and 6,300 respectively.
Young girl in Cidade Velha, Santiago Island.
West African Migration
A souvenir shop in Sal Rei, one of many such shops runs by West African migrants.
Due to its relative prosperity, compared to its African neighbours, many West Africans have found their way to Cape Verde in search of work, and other opportunities, which are not readily available in their own countries.
Many of these migrants run handicraft shops, especially on the tourist islands of Boa Vista and Sal, which sell arts and crafts from West Africa.
Flag
A very elongated version of the Cape Verde flag, flying outside the presidential palace in Praia.
The National Flag of the Republic of Cape Verde consists of five unequal horizontal bands of blue, white, and red, with a circle of ten yellow five-pointed stars.
Souvenir flags of Cape Verde, which make an ideal gift for a visiting vexillologist.
The ten yellow stars represent the main islands of Cape Verde while the blue bands represent the ocean and the sky.
The band of white and red represents the road toward the construction of the nation, with white representing ‘peace’ and red representing ‘effort’.
One of the more impressive flags, which is super-elongated, can be seen flying outside the presidential palace in Praia.
Currency
Cape Verde banknotes feature cultural icons, including Cesária Évora who appears on the CVE2,000 note.
The official currency of Cape Verde is the escudo, which has the international currency code of CVE. The currency sign is the cifrão, which is similar to the dollar sign but always written with two vertical lines: .
The escudo is pegged to the euro at a rate of €1 = CVE110. The euro circulates freely on Cape Verde where, for convenience sake, it is accepted at a slightly discounted rate of €1 = CVE100.
On the main tourist islands of Sal and Boa Vista, local businesses, taxis etc, accept payment in both euro and escudos and will often provide change in either one currency or a mixture of the two.
The Cape Verdean escudo is the official currency of Cape Verde.
The current series of banknotes were issued by the Banco de Cabo Verde (BCV) on the 22 December 2014. The notes honour Cape Verdean figures in the fields of literature, music, and politics.
Banknotes consist of denominations of CVE200, CVE500, CVE1000, CVE2000 and CVE5000 with the CVE5,000 note rarely seen and not even held by most banks.
The polymer version of the CVE200 banknote features Henrique Teixeira de Sousa, a prominent doctor and literary figure.
The CVE200 note, which features a portrait of Henrique Teixeira de Sousa, a prominent doctor, novelist, poet, and essayist was re-released in polymer, the first polymer banknote released in Cape Verde.
In a decision, which runs counter to world-wide currency trends, the BCV recently decided to re-issue the CVE200 note on paper after the bank received a large number of complaints from locals who didn’t like handling the polymer note.
Banking
A typical queue, outside a bank in downtown Praia.
Banks in Cape Verde are easily identified due to their unfortunate queues which see locals standing around for long periods of time, in the blistering sun, waiting their turn to enter the bank.
Banks in Cape Verde should be avoided at all costs, unless you wish to spend your holiday in a queue.
Costs
Not Cheap!
An average daily budget for Cape Verde is around €100 (CVE11,000)! This would allow you to stay in a decent mid-range hotel, rent a car, dine in decent restaurants and enjoy a drink or two with dinner.
The best way to reduce costs is to dine in local restaurants where a tasty meal costs no more than €5.
A menu at a local restaurant on the island of Boa Vista.
If you plan on doing any island-hopping, inter-island flights will add a considerable amount to your travel costs. Not only are flights expensive, they are very infrequent and often sold-out weeks in advance.
See the “Getting Around” section below for more details (and warnings) on domestic flights.
Domestic flights on Cape Verde are operated by TICV who have just two ATR-72’s in service. Flights are infrequent and expensive!
Suggested daily budgets:
Backpacker: CVE4500 per day (hardly feasible for Cape Verde!)
Flashpacker: CVE4500-CVE11,000 per day.
Top-end: CVE11,000+ per day.
Sample costs:
Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): CVE150 (€1.50)
Water (0.5 litre bottle): CVE100 (€1.00)
Cappuccino: CVE150 (€1.50)
Local Beer (small glass of the excellent ‘Strela‘ draft): CVE100 (€1.00)
Imported Beer (small bottle of Heineken): CVE250 (€2.50)
Taxi from airport to town centre: a flat fare of CVE1,000 (€10)
Car Rental (per day): CVE5,500 – CVE6,600 (€50 – 60)
Located 640 km (400 miles) off the West African coast, Santiago Island is the largest and most populous island of Cape Verde.
First discovered in 1460 by the Italian navigator, António de Noli, the island is home to the first colonial settlement established anywhere in the tropics, Cidade Velha, which is also the only UNESCO World Heritage Site in the country.
It is also the location of the capital city, Praia, and home to almost 50% of the entire population.
A volcanic island, Santiago is Cape Verde’s most agriculturally productive island, with much of the produce making its way to Sucupira market in downtown Praia.
The island is very mountainous, with jagged razorback peaks dominating the view. The drive from the southern city of Praia to the northern city of Tarrafal winds its way over the Serra Malagueta, a steep mountain range which peaks at 1064 m (3,490 ft).
If you have any interest in the history and culture of Cape Verde, spending time on Santiago is essential!
Praia
In 1770, following numerous pirate attacks on nearby Cidade Velha, and due to its strategic position on a high plateau, Praia was chosen as the new capital of Cape Verde.
The city is located on the southern coast of Santiago Island. The old town centre, which is built on the plateau, overlooks the Atlantic Ocean. The main street is the pedestrianised Avenida 5 de Julho (5th of July Avenue).
The international airport, Nelson Mandela International Airport (IATA: RAI), is located 3 km from Praia.
Avenida 5 de Julho
Avenida 5 de Julho is the main pedestrian street in downtown Praia.
Avenida 5 de Julhois a pedestrian street which lies at the heart of the historic ‘plateau’ district of Praia. It is here that you’ll find most hotels, restaurants, bars, shops, banks and sights of interest.
The whole avenue is lined with impressively sculptured hedges.
Sucupira Market
“Produce Central” – Sucupira market in downtown Praia.
There are few sights in downtown Praia but one which shouldn’t be missed is the central Sucupira market, which is the largest produce market in Cape Verde. The market is located on the pedestrian street – Avenida 5 de Julho.
While staying on the desert islands of Sal and Boa Vista, I was amazed at the range of fresh produce available – especially considering those islands sustain zero agriculture.
It was during my visit to Sucupira market, and Santiago, that I realised from where the produce originated.
Presidential Palace
Located in the historic heart of Praia, the Palácio da Presidência da República serves as the residence of the President of Cape Verde.
The current President of Cape Verde is José Maria Pereira Neves, who previously served as Prime Minister from 2001 to 2016. He is a member of the African Party for the Independence of Cape Verde (PAICV).
The President resides in the Palácio da Presidência da República (Palace of the Presidency of the Republic), a beautiful neoclassical style palace which was constructed in 1894. It is situated on Rua Serpa Pinto, at the southern end of Plateau, the historic district of Praia.
A statue of Diogo Gomes, the Portuguese navigator who is credited with discovering the island of Santiago.
The large statue located next to the Presidential Palace is of Diogo Gomes, a Portuguese navigator who is credited with discovering some of the islands of Cape Verde, along with the Italian navigator António de Noli.
Cidade Velha
Fishing boats line the harbour of Cidade Velha.
I have already mentioned Cidade Velha (Portuguese for “old city”) in the ‘History‘ section, so I’ll keep this section brief.
For anyone interested in the history of Cape Verde, Cidade Velha is a compulsory stop.
A young girl in Cidade Velha.
Conveniently located 10 km west of Praia, Cidade Velha has the distinction of being the first colony established in the tropics.
Laundry day in Cidade Velha.
It served as an important stopover port for many of the famous navigators, such as Christopher Columbus, who were busy discovering and mapping the ‘New World’.
Forte Real de São Filipe
Overlooking Cidade Velha, Forte Real de São Filipe was built to defend the settlement against pirate raids.
Located on a hill, 120 metres above Cidade Velha, Forte Real de São Filipe was constructed between 1587–93, following a raid by the English privateer, Sir Francis Drake.
A view of the gorge created by the Ribeira Grande de Santiago River, from Fortaleza Real de São Filipe.
Access to the fort is either by foot from town, climbing up 120 metres, or from the top of the ridge by car.
Sé Cathedral
The Sé Cathedral, one of the many ruined complexes which comprises the only UNESCO World Heritage Site on Cape Verde.
Overlooking Cidade Velha, the ruined Sé Cathedral had a short-lived existence. It was constructed by the Portuguese between 1556 and 1705. However, in 1712, it was pillaged by pirates and abandoned soon after!
A highlight of Cidade Velha, the ruined Sé Cathedral, part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The church was built in the Mudéjar-style, the first of its kind on African soil.
Mudéjar style, refers to a type of ornamentation and decoration used in the Iberian Christian kingdoms, primarily between the 13th and 16th centuries. It was based on decorative motifs derived from those that had been brought to or developed in Islamic Iberia or Al-Andalus.
A tombstone dated from 1775 inside the former Sé Catedral, Cidade Velha.
Now surrounded by residential buildings, the Sé cathedral was 60 metres long and featured fine stone sculptures and various floor tombs which remain in place.
Nossa Senhora do Rosário Church
The oldest church in the colonial world, the Nossa Senhora do Rosario church, Cidade Velha.
Built in 1495, the beautifully serene Nossa Senhora do Rosario church has the distinction of being the oldest colonial church in the world.
The interior of Nossa Senhora do Rosario church, Cidade Velha.
By comparison, the oldest church in the Americas, the Catedral Primada de América in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic, was constructed between 1512 and 1540. For photos of this cathedral, please see my Dominican Republic Travel Guide.
The interior of Nossa Senhora do Rosario church features Portuguese tiles, known as Azulejos.
The church, whose walls are lined with Portuguese tiles, known as Azulejos, was built in the Manueline Gothic style.
It’s interesting to note that many Africans were prominent members of Cidade Velha society, with pastors of the church often being African rather than European.
Colourful houses in Cidade Velha.
Porto Mosquito
Boats on the beach in the fishing village of Porto Mosquito.
If you continue 11 km further west from Cidade Velha, you’ll reach the end of the cobble-stone road which runs along the south-west coast at the quaint fishing village of Porto Mosquito.
A mural in Porto Mosquito celebrates a visit by Jacques-Yves Cousteau.
In the heart of the village, a mural of Jacques-Yves Cousteau, complete with a beaming smile, celebrates a visit made to Porto Mosquito by the famous French oceanographer, aboard the infamous Calypso, in November of 1948.
Beautiful images of aquatic life can be seen painted on the facades of houses in Porto Mosquito.
The colourful aquatic-themed murals continue throughout the village with no less than 17 houses covered in artwork.
Local fisherman ‘corking’ his wooden fishing boat.
Porto Mosquito is a working fishing village and during my visit I was able to watch the local fishermen ‘corking‘ (i.e. water-sealing) their wooden boats using nothing more than a length of string, a rock (as a hammer) and a knife. Once the string was in place, a sealant was applied.
Fishing boats on the beach at Port Mosquito.
If you have any interest in boats, the black volcanic-sand beach at Porto Mosquito is covered in the most beautifully painted wooden boats.
Pigs, on the beach in Porto Mosquito, feeding on crabs.
Also of interest were a few local pigs who were sniffing around in the sand on the beach. I saw that they were using their keen sense of smell to locate crabs, which they seemed to enjoy eating.
Tarrafal
All visitors stop to photograph the colourful TARRAFAL sign.
The highway from the capital, Praia to the northern city of Tarrafal traverses the length of Santiago island – a distance of just 67 km but a journey time of 1.5 hours.
Why so long? The single-lane highway winds its way up and down several steep mountain passes with lots of slow hair-pin turns.
Before arriving in Tarrafal (population: 6,656), the highway tops out over the lofty Serra Malagueta pass (1064 metres).
Life in the mountains is much different from life on the coast, with much cooler temperatures, heavy fog and the locals rugged up against the cold. Not at all tropical!
Fishing boats on the beach at Tarrafal.
Tarrafal is located on Tarrafal Bay, with the 643-metre high (2,109 ft) Monte Graciosa forming the perfect backdrop. The town is popular with locals, especially on weekends when the whole place is overrun by day-trippers from Praia (where else to go when you live on an island?).
Fishing boats on the beach at Tarrafal.
Tarrafal is an important fishing village and, as with other fishing villages on Santiago, the town beach is lined with colourful, wooden fishing boats.
Located at the top of Santiago Island, Tarrafal is an important fishing village with a growing tourism industry.
The mural painters from Porto Mosquito also seemed to have applied their colourful, magic touch to some of the buildings in Tarrafal.
Boa Vista Island
A young boy in Sal Rei, Boa Vista.
The arid, desert-island of Boa Vista (“Good View” in Portuguese) is the third largest island in Cape Verde, after Santo Antão and Santiago, with an area of 631 square kilometres (243 square miles).
Being the most easterly, it is also the closest island to West Africa, lying just 450 km west of Senegal.
Video:
Taking a taxi from Boa Vista airport to my hotel.
This remote and uninhabited island was discovered by António de Noli (Italian) and Diogo Gomes (Portuguese) in 1460. If you’re visiting Praia, a towering statue of Diogo Gomes can be seen outside the Presidential Palace (see the “Praia” section above).
In 1620, the first settlement was established on the island whose purpose was to exploit local salt deposits. The capital was established on a natural harbour and named Sal Rei (translates as “Salt King”).
Sal Rei
A view of Praia do Estoril, the main beach in Sal Rei, Boa Vista.
As the main town on Boa Vista (population: 5,778), laid-back and relaxed, Sal Rei is the centre of activity and the only real accommodation option for those not booked into a beach resort.
All services on the island (hotels, restaurants, supermarkets, banks, petrol stations, laundries) are located in Sal Rei, whose compact town centre is easily covered on foot.
Note: If you’re driving a car on the island, the only petrol stations are located in Sal Rei. Best to fill up before heading out into the remote countryside (where mobile phone signal is non-existent)!
Many of the locals who inhabit Sal Rei leave town each day on minibuses to work in the three large Riu resorts which are located south of town.
Fishing boats in Sal Rei harbour.
Sal Rei is built on a natural harbour which is a major fishing port. To the south-east, the beautiful, and normally quiet town beach – Praia do Estoril – is lined with hotels and rooftop bars/ restaurants which are the perfect place for watching the sunset over the bay.
My hotel and bar recommendations are included in the ‘Accommodation‘ and ‘Eating Out‘ sections below.
Colourful houses line the streets of Sal Rei, Boa Vista.
Sal Rei has few sights of interest but is full of charm and is a great place to meander.
The dusty, sandy streets are normally a buzz of activity with men playing board games and children playing football or rolling tyres (so very African)!
Young boys rolling tyres in Sal Rei – a typically African scene!
The port is alive each morning with fishermen selling their catch. The fishermen, fishing boats and local children make for wonderful photography opportunities.
Warm smiles greeted me everywhere in Sal Rei.
In the port area, several cafes and restaurants are a magnet for tourists who can relax and watch the activity while eating a meal or drinking a glass of Strela beer.
The very good Caffè del Porto is a popular choice and is covered in the ‘Eating Out‘ section below.
Located a short walk from the municipal market, the Centro de Artes e Cultura (CAC) is the one cultural centre on Boa Vista.
Along with occasional performances, the centre sells locally made crafts and has a restaurant/ cafe which serves very good lunches with a focus on simple Cape Verdean fare at reasonable prices (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more information).
Santa Mónica Beach / Boca Beach
A rough gravel road leads to the sweeping expanse of Santa Monica beach which exists in splendid isolation – but not for much longer!
Located on the isolated south-west coast of Boa Vista, at the end of a long gravel road (follow the sign for ‘Boca Beach‘ from the roundabout on the paved highway), the stunningly beautiful Santa Monica beach appears as a mirage on the horizon.
A photo, a dream or a Mark Rothko painting? The very real Santa Monica beach on Boa Vista!
As you approach from the dusty interior, it’s hard to believe something so beautiful exists. It is dreamlike and I was forced to look again to confirm that what I was seeing was indeed real.
Santa Monica is one of the true wonders of Boa Vista. Boasting more than 11 km of pristine sand, Santa Monica is the longest beach on the island.
Despite receiving many tourists, its huge expanse of sand and never-ending dimensions allows visitors to experience the feeling of isolation in a pristine natural setting.
Santa Monica Beach, Boa Vista Island.
Unfortunately, the developers have already arrived with the first sprawling resort emerging from the surrounding hills.
Boca Beach is tucked away at the southern end of Santa Monica beach.
At the southern end of Santa Monica beach, tiny Boca Beach is home to the only food and beverage option anywhere in this part of Boa Vista.
The tiny shack on the beach is a popular stop for visiting 4WD and quad-bike tours which arrive with guests from the nearby Riu resorts.
Praia De Carquejinha
Praia de Carquejinha, an incredibly beautiful, and almost totally deserted, 8 km long beach on the south coast of Boa Vista.
Located at the bottom of the island, the equally incredible Praia de Carquejinha stretches for 8 km along the south coast.
Truly remote, the only sign of life on this part of the island is the mega-sized Hotel Riu Touareg whose guests have the beach to themselves.
Viana Desert
A view of the Viana desert which lies in the rugged interior of Boa Vista.
Located east of the airport, and the town of Rabil, the Viana desert looks like a set from Lawrence of Arabia. Towering sand dunes, which rise up out of the desert, are framed by a rocky mountain backdrop.
The friendly owner of the nearby Viana Club (see the ‘Eating out‘ section) provides wonderful meals and will help out those silly tourists who manage to get their 4WD bogged in soft sand!
Cape Verde ‘Route 66’
This cobble-stone highway, through the interior of Boa Vista, is considered the “Route 66” of Cape Verde.
Running like a black ribbon for 20 km across the dry interior of Boa Vista, the Cape Verde version of “Route 66” is a fascinating drive.
A cobble-stoned highway, made from local basalt stone, which connects the western town of Rabil with the eastern town of Joao Galego, it’s hard to believe that each stone was laid by hand.
Monte Santo Antonio
The 2nd highest peak on Boa Vista, Monte Santo Antonio rises to an elevation of 379 m (1,243 ft).
As you travel along the only highway along the west coast, it’s hard to miss the impressive Monte Santo Antonio, an ancient volcanic structure which is the 2nd highest peak on Boa Vista, rising up to an elevation of 379 m (1,243 ft). The rocky peak is composed of basalt stone.
Capela de Nossa Senhora de Fátima
Capela de Nossa Senhora de Fátima overlooks the rugged north-west coast of Boa Vista Island.
Located north of Sal Rei, the isolated Capela de Nossa Senhora de Fátima (Chapel of Our Lady of Fatima) is located on a hill, overlooking the rugged north-west coast.
Reached via a rough gravel road, access is for those with a 4WD or quad bike. While the chapel is normally closed, the views over the coast are worth the trip. For those on foot, there is a walking trail along the coast from Sal Rei.
Sal Island
Outdoor art market in Santa Maria, Sal.
The Portuguese first discovered Sal in 1460 but the island wasn’t settled until the salt industry was developed at the end of the 18th century at Pedra de Lume.
Sal (Portuguese for “salt”) is one of the three sandy eastern islands of the Cape Verde archipelago, the other two being nearby Boa Vista, and Maio.
Sal is the main tourist destination in Cape Verde with its airport, Amílcar Cabral International Airport (IATA: SID), serving as the chief international gateway to Cape Verde.
Daily charter flights from Europe make Sal an affordable entry point to this otherwise remote, and expensive to reach destination.
Sal boasts over 350 days of sunshine a year and offers plenty of white sandy beaches in the flat south, while rugged volcanic landscapes dominate the northern end of the island, which is largely unpopulated.
The island is also subject to constant, strong, winds, which create ideal conditions for kite surfing, which is very popular.
Located at the heart of Sal, 2 km north of the airport, Espargos (population: 17,000) is the capital and main commercial centre of the island. It is here where most locals live, travelling south each day to Santa Maria to work in the tourism industry.
The one highway on Sal, national road EN1-SL01, a dual carriageway, connects Espargos with Santa Maria (19 km) in the south of the island. Surrounded on all sides by stunning white sand beaches, Santa Maria is the main tourist hub and home to all of the beach resorts and tourist facilities.
The best way to explore the island is to rent a car which will cost around €50 per day. One day is enough to cover all the sights on Sal – see the ‘Rental Car‘ section below for more details.
Santa Maria
Fishermen in Santa Maria, with the town beach and Hotel Morabeza in the background.
Santa Maria was founded in 1830 as a centre for the production and export of salt. Up to 30,000 tons of salt were shipped from Santa Maria each year. The former ‘Salinas‘ (salt ponds) are located behind the town.
Laying in isolated obscurity for most of its history, the fortunes of Santa Maria changed in 1967 when a Belgium couple, Gaspard Vynckier, a Belgian industrialist and his wife Marguerite Massart (the first female engineer of Belgium), established Cape Verde’s first resort – the HotelMorabeza.
Located on the beach in the heart of Santa Maria, today, the Hotel Morabeza is just one of a string of resorts which line the beach to the west of town.
The streets of Santa Maria are lined with pastel-coloured buildings, al fresco restaurants, cafes and live-music bars. The busiest restaurants in the evening are located directly on the sandy beach (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more information).
Santa Maria beach on Sal Island.
The one sight in Santa Maria is that which originally put Sal on the tourist map – the dazzling, white-sand beach.
Freshly caught fish are sold each morning on Santa Maria pier.
The expanse of white sand is only interrupted by the town pier which is always a hive of activity with local fishermen selling their daily catch and opportunistic souvenir sellers peddling their wares to the usual throng of tourists.
Fish vendors on Santa Maria pier, Sal Island.
Lining Santa Maria beach are restaurants, bars, surf schools, hotels, villas and everything else required by a busy tourist on holiday!
Distances from Santa Maria, Sal
The main street of Santa Maria is a relaxed pedestrian street – Rua 1 de Junho (1st of June street) – which is lined with bustling cafes, bars, restaurants and lots of souvenir shops which are operated by West African migrants.
Kite Beach
Kite surfing is a major tourist drawcard on the ever-windy islands of Sal and Boa Vista.
Each day, as the heat increases on the dry and arid Sal Island, the coastal winds increase, providing ideal conditions for kite surfers. These daily winds occur for about 8 months of the year, drawing hordes of, mainly European, kite surfers.
Kite Surfing is very popular on the ever-breezy Kite beach.
The premier venue for kite surfing is the aptly named Kite Beach which is located on the exposed east coast of Sal, a few kilometres north of Santa Maria.
Kite surfing in perfect conditions at Kite beach, Sal.
One of the finer beaches on Sal, Praia Ponta Preta is lined with all-inclusive resorts.
On the opposite side of the island to Kite Beach, the much calmer, leeward coast of Sal is home to Praia Ponta Preta which is lined with numerous all-inclusive resorts.
Murdeira
The flag of Cape Verde flying on the rocky coast at Murdeira, Sal Island.
Located on the west coast, 10 km north of Santa Maria, the fishing village of Murdeira grew up around the Murdeira Village Resort. The rocky coastline of Murdeira is popular with snorkelers.
Salinas de Pedra de Lume
Salinas de Pedra de Lume.
I would rate the stunning Salinas de Pedra de Lume as one of the highlights of my trip to Cape Verde.
Located inside the crater of an extinct volcano, at an elevation of 39 metres above sea level, an underground reservoir fills a small lake with briny water.
A view of the Salinas de Pedra de Lume, a salt mine located inside a volcanic crater.
Until the discovery of this crater lake in 1796 by Manuel António Martins, Sal was uninhabited, due to its arid environment, lack of natural resources and lack of fresh water.
The colourful, briny waters of the Salinas de Pedra de Lume.
With the discovery of a salt lake, the fortunes of the island were transformed overnight. The first settlement was built around the nearby port of Pedra de Lume, African slaves were imported to work on salt production and the name of the island, originally called Llana (“Flat”) was changed to Sal (“Salt”).
Access to the Salinas de Pedra de Lume is through a tunnel which was built in 1804.
In order to aid the extraction of salt from the crater, a tunnel was carved out of the side wall of the crater. This tunnel today serves as the entry point for the Salinas.
The wooden supports of an abandoned cable-car which was used to transport salt from the crater to the nearby port.
Salt production at Pedra de Lume flourished throughout most of the 19th century, but went into decline after 1887, when Brazil, the main export destination, imposed a ban on imported salt.
Salt produced at the Salinas de Pedra de Lume is used by the beauty and culinary industries.
Away from the beach, the Salinas de Pedra de Lume are the most popular tourist attraction on Sal. Arriving in buses, most visitors experience the sensation of floating in the salty waters of the lake and covering themselves in black volcanic mud.
Salinas de Pedra de Lume.
Almost no one ventures beyond the swimming area which is located at the entrance to the salt ponds. If you venture beyond the swimming area, you’ll have the entire crater to yourself.
I spent about an hour walking around the salt pans, where many incredible photos await!
Pedra de Lume
Located in Pedra de Lume, the Capela de Nossa Senhora was built in 1853 for use by the African salt workers.
Located about 5 km east of Espargos, the abandoned port of Pedra de Lume was established around 1800 as the first settlement on Sal. Pedra de Lume was founded by Manuel António Martins, who started the exploitation of the nearby Salinas (salt ponds) in 1796.
Today, most tourists (who arrive on bus tours), speed through the sleepy port, on their way to the nearby Salinas, which is unfortunate!
The charming port is home to a couple of sights and an excellent lunch restaurant – Restaurante Área Docas (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more details).
A highlight of Pedra De Lume is the small Capela de Nossa Senhora (Lady Compassion Chapel) which sits in isolation, alongside the access road to the Salinas.
Built in 1853, supposedly by African slaves working at the salt mine, the chapel is normally closed and best photographed after lunch when the sun is in front of the chapel, and the surrounding blue sky at its most brilliant.
The slowly decaying, rusted hulks of former salt barges, in a boat graveyard at Pedra de Lume.
Across the road from the chapel, a small boat graveyard is the final resting place for three former salt barges which, ironically, are now slowly decaying due to the salt air!
Terra Boa
Exploring Terra Boa and the volcanic ash plain, which lies in the remote north of Sal Island. At 406 m elevation, Monte Grande is the highest point on Sal.
From Espargos, an unmarked dirt track snakes its way north to the Farol da Fiur (lighthouse) which is located on the remote and rugged north coast.
The landscape in the northern half of Sal is arid and volcanic and home to nobody. Monte Grande, the island’s highest point at 406 m (1,332 ft) dominates the view.
Half way to the lighthouse, you will reach Terra Boa, a flat volcanic ash plain which is famous for its shimmering mirages – impossible to photograph of course!
Ponta Norte (Farol da Fiúra) Lighthouse
The very remote, Ponta Norte (Farol da Fiúra) lighthouse is located at the northern tip of Sal Island.
The northern tip of Sal is home to the unremarkable Ponta Norte (Farol da Fiúra) lighthouse. A modern, fibreglass, tower painted with black and white bands, the lighthouse stands alongside the stone ruins of the original lighthouse.
An ancient lava delta adjacent to the Ponta Norte (Farol da Fiúra) lighthouse on the north coast of Sal Island.
Ponta Norte (North Point) was formed millions of years ago, following a volcanic eruption from Monte Grande, which resulted in a lava flow entering the sea, creating a lava delta which is today known as Ponta Norte. The lighthouse is built on this lava delta.
Note: Prior to reaching the lighthouse, the smooth volcanic-ash track turns into a nasty, rough volcanic-rock road, with plenty of sharp, tyre-damaging, rocks. Care needs to be taken if you are driving a rental car. This part of the road is only suitable for 4WD.
Accommodation
The vast Hotel Riu Touareg is located on Praia de Carquejinha, on the remote south coast of Boa Vista Island.
With 95% of visitors to Cape Verde arriving on pre-paid holiday packages from Europe, almost all arrivals are shepherded directly from the airport (on a Tui bus) to their isolated, all-inclusive, beach resort.
Most holiday-makers arrive on Tui flights from Europe, which is the cheapest way to access Cape Verde. See the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details.
The main hotel operator on Cape Verde is the Riu hotel group which offers six sprawling resorts, with 3 located on the stunning beaches of Boa Vista and three located on the island of Sal.
The largest resort on Sal is the mega-sized Hotel Riu Palace Santa Maria while the Hotel Riu Touareg on Boa Vista is located in stunning isolation on the 8 km long Praia de Carquejinha.
When I arrived on Boa Vista from Brussels with Tui, I was the only passenger not booked on a holiday package. While all other passengers boarded a Tui coach, to be taken to their remote Riu beach resort, I took a taxi into the main town – Sal Rei.
Unfortunately, while there was a small line of taxi drivers waiting at the airport, only one driver managed to get a fare that day, despite the fact that 100 arrivals had just exited the airport!
A huge problem with the package tourism industry is that for countries such as Cape Verde, who host vast numbers of holiday makers, most of the money generated never enters the local economy. With 95% of visitors arriving on (European-owned) charter flights and staying in (European-owned) resorts, almost all the revenue generated remains in Europe.
One of the main benefits from the package tourism industry is local employment. The largest employer on the islands of Boa Vista and Sal is the resorts. Each evening in Sal Rei, you can see fleets of mini-buses returning local resort staff back into town, all wearing their Riu uniforms.
Santiago Island
The colourful rooms at the charming Hotel Santa Maria in Praia pay homage to local artists.
While on Santiago, I stayed in the historic heart of the capital Praia, at the Hotel Santa Maria. Located on the charming main pedestrian street, the hotel offers comfortable, spacious rooms for around €42 (CVE4,600) per night.
The hotel pays homage to famous Cape Verdean musicians such as Cesária Évora with rooms decorated by local artists. I booked my room through booking.com.
Boa Vista Island
The Ouril Hotel Agueda on Boa Vista offers comfortable accommodation overlooking the beach in Sal Rei.
On Boa Vista, I stayed at the Ouril Hotel Agueda which is located across from the main beach in downtown Sal Rei (the only town of consequence on Boa Vista).
The Ouril hotel group operates 4 mid-range hotels in Cape Verde; two on Boa Vista and two on Sal.
My spacious, light-filled room at the Ouril Hotel Agueda on Boa Vista.
Rooms, which are full of light, and offer balconies with views over the beach, cost around €70 (CVE7,700) per night which includes a decent breakfast.
The hotel lies in the heart of Sal-Rei, a short stroll from all restaurants, cafes, bars and shops. So much more interesting than staying at an isolated beach resort!
The hotel also features a rooftop terrace bar which is perfect for watching the sunset over the beach.
Exploring Boa Vista with my Suzuki ‘Jinny’ 4WD from the Ouril Hotel Agueda.
If you wish to explore Boa Vista, the hotel offers car rental, with a Suzuki ‘Jinny’ 4WD costing €60 (CVE 6,600) per day.
One day is enough to explore the entire island and a 4WD is needed on the rough gravel roads. See the ‘Car Rental‘ section below for more details.
My beautifully designed room at the Hotel Sobrado in Santa Maria, Sal.
Almost all accommodation on Sal is located in the tourist town of Santa Maria, which lies at the southern end of the island, 19 km south of the airport.
Large, beachside resorts are the staple offering in Santa Maria, with a few, smaller, hotel options in the downtown area. I stayed at the very good Hotel Sobrado where rooms start from €100 (CVE11,000) per day which includes a daily buffet breakfast. Despite the high room rate, this is one of the cheaper options on an island which is dominated by all-inclusive resorts.
Featuring beautifully designed rooms, the Hotel Sobrado is 5 minute walk from the main beach, shops, cafes, restaurants and bars.
Sucupira market in Praia offers an abundance of locally grown produce.
Cape Verde is known for its delicious cuisine which combines West African and Portuguese influences.
Artwork on the wall of the fish market in Sal-Rei, Boa Vista.
Because the archipelago is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, fish and seafood is integral to Cape Verdean cooking. Every morning, the many fishing villages on the archipeligo are a hive of activity as fisherman sell their catch, with tuna being especially popular.
Each morning on Sal, fisherman sell their catch on the main pier in Santa Maria.
The rich volcanic soils on islands such as Santiago allow for the cultivation of a diverse range of produce. While I was in Praia, local strawberries were abundant and very affordable. A great place to start your appreciation of local produce is Sucupira market in downtown Praia.
A dry version of Cachupa (left) with omelette and salad, served at the Viana Club on Boa Vista.
The national dish of Cape Verde is the very popular Cachupa – a stew which includes mashed maize, onions, green bananas, manioc, sweet potatoes, squash and yams. Cachupa can also be served dry, which I believe tastes much better than the stew version.
One of the best Cachupas I tasted was a dry version which was served at the Viana Club which is located in the remote sand dunes in the interior of Boa Vista.
Beer
The very tasty local beer, Strela which is Creole for “star”.
The local brew on Cape Verde is the very quaffable Strela which is Creole for “star”. Brewed in Praia, Strela has a cult following in Cape Verde which is very much deserved as it tastes so much better than the European beers on offer at double the price!
There is one craft brewery on Sal, Blimund, which is covered in the Sal section below.
Coffee
Colourful sugar packets from Cafés de Cabo Verde.
The Portuguese introduced ‘Coffea‘ to Cape Verde almost 300 years ago. Coffee has been grown in the rich volcanic soils of Fogo Island for centuries.
Today, Cafés de Cabo Verde market a range of local coffee products, all of which are branded with their colourful ‘Creole’ packaging.
Santiago Island
The main pedestrian street of Praia – the Peatonal – is lined with restaurants, cafes and bars.
Restaurants
The main pedestrian street of Praia – the Peatonal – is lined with restaurants, cafes and bars where you can enjoy live local music while having a traditional dinner of Cachupa and Strela.
If you wish to try the local speciality, the Kaza Katxupa is a great place to sample Cachupa and other Cape Verdean dishes. While indoor tables are offering, the best ambience is offered at the outdoor tables, directly on the pedestrian mall, under the stars, on a warm tropical night.
Just along the Peatonal from Kaza Katxupa, the Restaurante Avis offers the best Caipirinha this side of Brazil – and at just €3 a pop! They are one of the only establishments on the Peatonal which offer live, local creole music in the evenings.
Boa Vista Island
Restaurants/ Cafés
This salad tasted as good as it looks! Freshly grilled tuna salad served at Ca’ Baby restaurant in Sal-Rei.
The main town on Boa Vista, Sal-Rei is home to a wealth of dining options and entertainment venues. Thanks to a resident ex-pat population (mainly Italians), Sal-Rei is blessed with some excellent pizza and pasta restaurants.
The pick of the bunch is Ca’ Baby which is operated by an enthusiastic Italian family who offer fresh homemade pasta, the most amazing wood-fired pizzas and truly decadent desserts – you must try their homemade ice-cream!
I managed to eat my way through a large part of their menu but one of my favourite meals was a colourful salad topped with grilled fresh local tuna. Delicious!
Grilled tuna steaks at Caffè del Porto in Sal-Rei, Boa Vista.
Just around the corner from Ca’ Baby, overlooking the port, the always-dependable Caffè del Porto is open when most other places are closed!
Also owned by a European expat, Caffè del Porto offers pasta, pizza and lots of local seafood, which is hauled ashore each morning at the pier opposite.
The popular Coral cafe in Sal-Rei serves tasty Cape Verdean meals, coffee and freshly baked cakes.
The most popular local restaurant/ café in Sal-Rei is Coral, which is located on the main street. The friendly staff at Coral serve freshly made cakes, coffee, and typical Cape Verdean food for lunch, with meals costing no more than €5.
Grilled chicken for lunch at the Centro de Artes e Cultura in Sal-Rei.
Another wonderful local cafe/ restaurant is located around the corner from Coral at the Centre for Arts and Culture. Open for lunch, meals include the most amazing roast chicken and grilled fish, all for €5 or less.
Bars
Enjoying a Strela beer at the rooftop bar at Cambar d’Sol in Sal-Rei.
The flat-roof buildings which line the beach of Sal-Rei are home to many rooftop bars and restaurants, all of which offer great sunset views. My favourite was Cambar d’Sol which overlooks the beach and is adjacent to the Ouril Hotel Agueda.
A typical Cape Verdean lunch served at Cambar d’Sol in Sal-Rei.
The rooftop terrace at Cambar d’Sol offers prime sunset viewing, cold beers and very decent local cuisine.
For a truly local vibe, and great creole-infused music, the Café Kriola offers Cape Verdean cuisine, plenty of Strela beer and local live music most nights. Located on the main street of Sal-Rei, it’s hard to miss this hub of nocturnal activity.
Sal Island
The incredible ‘Tuna Chef’ served at Restaurante Barracuda in Santa Maria, Sal.
Restaurants/ Cafés
Santa Maria
Being the main tourist town on Cape Verde, Santa Maria has no shortage of dining options, many of which line the main beach or are tucked away in the side streets.
Truly divine! A slightly seared tuna steak at Palm Beach restaurant in Santa Maria.
Two of the most popular places, Restaurante Barracuda and Palm Beach are located alongside each other on the main beach in Santa Maria. Both serve amazing food, offering lots of local fish and seafood.
I ate at both places and especially enjoyed their slightly seared tuna steaks. Of the two tuna offerings, my preference was for the ‘Tuna Chef‘ dish which was served at Restaurante Barracuda and included a fruit sauce which elevated the dish to another level.
The best cafe on the main pedestrian street (Rua 1 de Junho), Giramondois an emporium of delight, offering a gelateria and an adjacent bistro.
There’s outdoor seating in front, perfect for snacking on a cone of gelato, waffle, crepe or sipping a coffee while taking in the passing people parade.
Pedra de Lume
An excellent lunch of freshly grilled fish at the very good Restaurante Área Docas in Pedra de Lume.
If you’re in the vicinity of Pedra de Lume at lunchtime, I highly recommend taking time out of your sightseeing schedule to enjoy the fine food at Restaurante Área Docas which overlooks the small beach in Pedra de Lume. The food and service are wonderful as are the deserts and coffee!
Bars
Enjoying a ‘Blimund’ craft beer at Palm Beach restaurant in Santa Maria.
While I enjoyed drinking Strela beer in Cape Verde, I was very happy to discover a new craft beer brewery in Santa Maria. The team at Blimund currently offer 4 different beers which can be sampled at their brewery/ pub – Bodeguinha– and at various restaurants around town.
The most popular bar on the pedestrian mall (Rua 1 de Junho) is Buddy Bar which features live music most evenings.
Visa Requirements
Visa policy of Cape Verde – blue countries enjoy ‘visa-free’ entry while yellow countries can obtain a ‘visa-on-arrival’. Source: Wikipedia.
The visa policy of Cape Verde is wonderfully simple and welcoming to all – except Moroccan passport holders!
Currently, 61 nationalities enjoy visa-free travel to Cape Verde for up to 90 days.
All other nationalities are eligible to receive a Visa-on-Arrival (VOA), provided they arrive at either Boa Vista, Sal, São Vicente or Santiago international airports.
As an Australian passport holder, I received a 30-day ‘VOA’ in 5 minutes, without fuss, which cost me €35. The entire process was conducted by a friendly immigration officer at Boa Vista International airport.
A Tui plane on the tarmac at Amílcar Cabral International Airport, also known as Sal International Airport, the main international gateway to Cape Verde.
Air
Frequent, affordable flights from Europe to both Boa Vista and Sal are offered by the British-German Tui group who operate flights from Belgium, Netherlands, UKand Germany.
Tui also operates occasional flights from the Netherlands to Praia International airport and São VicenteInternational airport.
I flew from Brussels with the Belgium arm of Tui – Tuifly.be – who had a one-way fare available from Brussels to Sal for €99 – which was about the same price which I paid for the 20-minute inter-island flight from Praia to Sal!
Tui offers the best-value option for reaching this remote island nation.
Departure board at Amílcar Cabral International Airport (Sal International Airport).
International Airports
There are four international airports serving Cape Verde with Sal International airport being the main gateway.
Unmetered taxis are available at all airports, with those on Boa Vista and Santiago charging a flat fare of €10 for the short trip to/ from downtown and the airport, while taxis on Sal charge €15 for trips to/ from the airport since the distance from Santa Maria is much longer.
Sea
Prior to the Covid-19 pandemic, occasional cruise ships called at Cape Verde. These are currently suspended!
Getting Around
The terminal at Praia’s Nelson Mandela International Airport.
Most inter-island transportation in Cape Verde is done by air, although flights are very limited and expensive. There are more regular flights between the major islands (Santiago, Sal and São Vicente), with less frequent flights to the other islands.
Boat transportation is available, though not widely used nor dependable. On the more populated Santiago Island, public bus transport runs periodically and taxis are common. On less populated islands minibuses (Aluguers) and/or taxis are the only option.
Air
A TICV ATR-72 (one of two in service) at Praia Nelson Mandela International Airport (RAI).
Domestic flights in Cape Verde are operated by Transportes Interilhas de Cabo Verde (TICV), which is 70% owned by BestFly World Wide and 30% owned by the government of Cape Verde.
There are many issues with inter-island flights which you should be aware of when planning any island hopping, including ticket prices, flight schedules and seat availability.
My boarding pass from Boa Vista to Praia with TICV.
Ticket Prices
TICV operate in a monopoly environment and, as can be expected from a monopoly operator, ticket prices are not cheap!
I flew from Boa Vista to Praia and Praia to Sal, with each 20-minute flight costing me almost €100! Ouch!
This is even more upsetting when you consider that Tui offers specials from Europe to Cape Verde for the same price!
Flight Schedules
As for flight frequency, you might expect that on an island nation, where flying is the only available means of travel between most islands, that TICV would be operating a daily shuttle service between all islands.
This is not the case – flight schedules are very limited!
The TICV fleet consists of just 3 ATR-72 prop planes with one in storage and two in active service. Flights are scare – with just two flights per week connecting Boa Vista to Praia.
You can view the weekly flight schedule on the Horários page of the Bestfly website.
While no route map currently exists, flights operate on a ‘wheel and spoke‘ model with all flights departing from the hub airport – Praia – which lies at the centre of the wheel. Flights radiate out from Praia, along the spokes, to individual islands – then return back to Praia.
There are a few flights which connect Praia to Sal then continue onto one other island (either São Vicente or São Nicolau) before returning back to Praia.
Due to the current setup, if you wish to travel from Boa Vista to neighbouring Sal (normally a short boat trip – if ferries were available), you will need to connect through Praia. Connection times in Praia, depending on seat availability, can be days rather than hours!
Seat Availability
With just two 70-seater ATR72’s in service, there are a very limited number of seats available on domestic flights. Once you factor in the scarcity of flights, it’s not surprising that flights sell out weeks in advance.
As I learnt from personal experience on the ground, Cape Verde isn’t a destination for planning any last-minute follies! You should book flights as far in advance as possible!
Inter-island ferries are operated by CV Interilhas with services being unreliable due to many cancellations as a result of bad weather, mechanical issues etc.
Routes / Schedules and Tariffsare posted on the CV Interilhas website and tickets can be purchased online, although only Visa card is accepted. Good luck!
Public Transport
A Toyota Hilux Aluguer on Boa Vista.
On all islands, you will find Aluguers (literally: rental) which are either minibuses or Toyota ‘Hilux’ pickup trucks.
While minibuses connect most towns and cost just a few euros, the Hilux option is popular with tourists who rent them to tour the rugged landscapes of islands such as Boa Vista and Sal.
The only municipal buses on Cape Verde operate in the capital, Praia.
Taxi
Taxis, such as this one on Boa Vista, charge €10 for trips to/ from the airport.
Unmetered taxis are available on most islands, with those on Boa Vista and Santiago charging a flat fare of €10 for the short trip to/ from the airport.
Taxis on Sal charge €15 for trips to/ from the airport since the distance from Santa Maria is much longer.
Rental Car
The best way to maximise your time on the islands is to rent a car. If renting on either Boa Vista or Sal, you should ensure you rent a 4WD as many attractions lie at the end of rugged gravel roads.
A normal, 2WD, car will suffice on Santiago which is covered by paved (or cobble-stone) roads.
Santiago Island
My rental car in the fishing villager of Porto Mosquito on Santiago.
While on Santiago, I rented a car for €50 (CVE5,500) per day through Friendship Tours.
I would certainly recommend this company. They delivered a car to my hotel in the morning and only required a payment of €50 (CVE5,500) cash per day!
License plates on Cape Verde are prefixed with the two-letter island name of the place of registration, with ‘ST’ representing Santiago.
No fuss, no hefty security deposit! Very smooth and easy.
Boa Vista Island
The newly paved highway on the west coast of Boa Vista.
While on Boa Vista, I rented a Suzuki ‘Jinny’ 4WD through my hotel – Ouril Hotel Agueda. If you wish to fully explore Boa Vista, you will need a 4WD.
The daily rental rate was €60 (CVE 6,600) with a €200 (CVE 20,000) security deposit required, which can only be paid in cash.
The interior roads on Boa Vista are made from cobble stones, which stretch to the horizon and beyond.
Sal Island
Exploring rugged Sal Island in my rental car.
On Sal, I rented a car through Caetano Car Rental who are located at the Enacol service station in Santa Maria.
The company has a variety of cars which range in price from €35 – €80 (CVE3,800 – CVE8,800) per day. They also require a cash security deposit of €200 (CVE 20,000).
That’s the end of my travel guide for Cape Verde.
If you have any comments or questions, please do not hesitate to contact me using the comments field below.
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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
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