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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 212 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is a Greenland Travel Guide from taste2travel.com
Date Visited: May – June 2022
Introduction
When you’ve seen the rest of the world – where to go? Greenland of course!
A view of Disko Bay, Ilulissat.
Greenland is truly remote, a northern hemisphere version of Antarctica. There are so many parallels between the two, especially the monumental frozen landscapes, that I was constantly reminded of the great southern continent.
A highlight of Greenland – the stunning views of floating mountains -the icebergs of the Ilulissat Icefjord.
The scenery on Greenland, especially around the spectacular Ilulissat Icefjord, is totally surreal and out of this world!
A view of the colourful houses of Ilulissat.
The world’s largest island has the world’s sparsest population, with a population density of just 0.026 people per square kilometre.
Icebergs often look so inviting – just like a perfectly design swimming pool that you’d love to dive into. Only if the water wasn’t freezing!
The 56,000 souls who call Greenland home mainly live in remote towns along the southwest coast – the one place which isn’t covered by the massive Greenland Ice Sheet.
The midnight sun, which never sets, over an iceberg-filled Disko Bay, Ilulissat.
The native Inuit first arrived on Greenland 4,500 years ago and today comprise 90% of the population.
Inuit artwork, by a local Ilulissat artist.
Visiting Greenland was a long-held dream, and, while I was there, it felt like I was in a constant dream. Looking out over the iceberg-filled Disko Bay in Ilulissat, it’s hard to believe that what you are witnessing could at all be real!
The Ilulissat Icefiord is one of three UNESCO World Heritage sites on Greenland.
Greenland is not a cheap destination, it’s best to design your itinerary to both maximise and minimise your time on the island, lest you exhaust your travel budget. Please refer to the ‘Costs‘ section below for more details on travel costs to Greenland.
Video: A view from the deck of the Sarfaq Ittuk.
One of the best-value bargains on Greenland is a cruise on the Sarfaq Ittuk, a passenger ship which serves 11 remote communities along the west coast of Greenland.
While provided an essential public service for communities who have no other connection to the outside world, the cruise ship also provides tourists with a very unique sightseeing opportunity and is the only way to move around Greenland without flying.
Typical views of the Greenland coast from the deck of the Sarfaq Ittuk.
Despite the costs, Greenland should not be missed! This is a truly unique travel destination, unlike anywhere else in the world!
Colourful houses in the remote settlement of Kangaamiut.
Location
Nuuk, Greenland
The world’s largest island, Greenland is located in North America, between the North Atlantic Ocean and the Arctic Ocean, northeast of Canada.
A map showing the Kingdom of Denmark. Source: Wikipedia.
Although part of North America, Greenland is an autonomous territory of the Kingdom of Denmark. The Kingdom is comprised of Denmark, Greenland and the Faroe Islands (click to view my Faroe Islands Travel Guide).
A recently turned iceberg – the rippling effect is caused by the action of sea water when the iceberg is submerged.
Greenland is located 300 km west of Iceland; 1,800 km northwest of the Faroe Islands; 3,000 km northwest of Denmark and lies between latitudes 59° and 83°N, with the southern zone enjoying a more temperate climate.
While Europe is so far away, the distance from Iqaluit (capital of the Canadian territory of Nunavut) to Nuuk is just 826 km (513 mi). However,there are no transport links between Greenland and other parts of North America.
The west coast town of Aasiaat is home to 3,069 souls.
Almost all of the population of Greenland live along the southwest coast, while the constantly frozen northern region is almost uninhabited.
A comparison map, showing the actual size of Greenland compared to Australia.
Although Greenland appears to be larger than Africa on most world maps (more on that in the next section), the world’s largest island is actually much smaller, being just three times the size of Texas.
A view of the Greenland Ice Sheet and one of the many glaciers, from my Air Greenland domestic flight.
Greenland measures 2,670 km (1,660 mi) from north to south and 1,050 km (650 mi) from east to west at its widest point with 80% of the island being covered in a huge Greenlandice sheet.
Due to the impossible terrain on Greenland, a road network cannot be built, with air and sea travel being the only means of moving around the island.
Mercator Projection
Why does Greenland appear to be as large as Africa on most world maps?
A map of the world using the Mercator Projection – with grid lines showing the inflation of landmasses away from the equator. Source: Wikipedia.
The Mercator projection is a cylindrical map projection presented by Flemish geographer and cartographer Gerardus Mercator in 1569.
A way of displaying a 3-dimensional globe as a flat 2-dimensional image, the Mercator Projection became the standard map projection for navigation because it is unique in representing north as up and south as down everywhere.
This comparison map shows the real size of Greenland compared to Africa. Source: thetruesize.com
The Mercator projection exaggerates areas far from the equator, with any landmass at latitudes greater than 70° north or south being totally distorted.
As a result, landmasses such as Greenland and Antarctica appear far larger than they actually are, relative to landmasses near the equator.
A very useful website for eliminating the size distortion of landmasses is thetruesize.com. The website allows you to drag different pieces of the world to other parts of the map to make direct comparisons between two land masses – such as is illustrated above.
Greenland Ice Sheet
Flying over the Greenland Ice sheet on a domestic flight with Air Greenland.
Covering 80% of the land area of Greenland, the Greenland Ice Sheet is the 2nd largest block of ice in the world, beaten only by the much larger Antarctica Ice Sheet.
A map of Greenland, showing the white ice sheet, which covers 80% of the island.
Analysis of ice-core samples indicates the continuous presence of either an ice sheet or ice sheets covering significant parts of Greenland for the last 18 million years.
A view of the Greenland Ice Sheet, draining into one of hundreds of glaciers which line the coast of Greenland.
The ice sheet is almost 2,900 kilometres (1,800 mi) long in a north–south direction, and its greatest width is 1,100 kilometres (680 mi), near its northern margin.
The Greenland Ice Sheet is drained along the coast by many massive glaciers.
The average thickness is about 1.5 km (0.9 mi) and over 3 km (1.9 mi) at its thickest point. It is estimated that, should the entire ice sheet melt, it would lead to a global sea level rise of 7.2 m (24 ft)!
A summer house near Maniitsoq is dominated by the white expanse of the Greenland Ice Sheet.
Due to its tremendous weight, over millions of years, the ice sheet has depressed the central area of Greenland.
One of many coastal glaciers which drain the massive Greenland Ice Sheet.
If you removed the ice, Greenland would look like a large basin with mountain ranges lining the east and west coasts. Areas in the interior are at, or even below, sea level.
As seen from the Sarfaq Ittuk, the 1,500-metre-deep Greenland Ice Sheet covers the entire landscape, like icing on a wedding cake.
While the ice sheet does not reach the coast in any substantial way, large outlet glaciers, which are restricted tongues of the ice sheet, move through valleys around the periphery of Greenland to calve off into the ocean, producing huge icebergs.
Floating icebergs, the size of mountains, slowly move into the sea from the Ilulissat Ice Fjord. Perilous obstacles for any ship!
The best known of these outlet glaciers is Jakobshavn Glacier which calves into the famous Ilulissat Ice Fjord.
Sunlight reflecting off an iceberg in the Ilulissat Icefjord.
The top tourist attraction in Greenland, the Ilulissat Ice Fjord is jam-packed with floating icebergs which are the size of mountains.
The RMS Titanic
Considered ‘unsinkable’, the Titanic sank after hitting an iceberg which is believed to have originated in Ilulissat.
Perhaps the most famous ship in history, the legendary RMS Titanic was the largest ship in the world at the time of her launch and was built to be ‘unsinkable’.
A luxury passenger ship, her maiden voyage began on Wednesday, 10 April 1912 from Southampton, UK, with an estimated 2,224 passengers and crew who were bound for New York City.
At 11:40 pm on the 14th of April, a lookout crew member spotted an iceberg immediately ahead of Titanic and alerted the bridge. The first officer ordered the ship to be steered around the obstacle, but it was too late; the starboard side of Titanic struck the iceberg, creating a series of holes below the waterline.
By 2:30 am, the ship had sunk, resulting in the loss of 1,500 lives, mostly men. About 710 people survived the disaster and were conveyed by the ship Carpathia to New York City.
It is widely believed that the iceberg which sunk the Titanic had originated in Ilulissat.
A commemorative plaque in Narsarsuaq honours the Japanese adventurer, Naomi Uemura, who travelled the length of the Greenland Ice Sheet solo.
While the vast Greenland Ice Sheet may seem to be a daunting environment for most, it provided the perfect challenge for Japanese adventurer Naomi Uemura.
Fresh from his solo trek to the North Pole in 1978, making him the first person to reach the pole solo, Uemura turned his attention to the Greenland Ice Sheet.
Flying over the Greenland Ice Sheet, with a view of two glaciers which drain the ice sheet at the coastal periphery.
He assembled a dogsled team and travelled the length of the ice sheet, covering 2,600 km from the top to the bottom. He finished his journey in the southern settlement of Narsarsuaq where a plaque commemorates his amazing feat.
The midnight sun, reflecting off of icebergs in the Ilulissat Icefjord.
Greenland Vs Iceland
This is Greenland…
.. and this is Iceland!
It is true that Greenland is covered mostly in ice and snow while Iceland is verdant and green in many places. Why the name-switch?
The Vikings had a custom of naming places as they first encountered them.
When Erik the Red first landed in the southwest of Greenland in A.D. 982, it was probably a beautiful summer’s day and the view he encountered was most probably of green fields.
It is also mentioned in Nordic legend that Eric named the country Greenland in order to attract other settlers! Sneaky!
Likewise, Nordic legends say Naddador was the first Norse explorer to reach Iceland, and he named the country Snæland or “snow land” because it was snowing.
A view of Narsarsuaq in southern Greenland.
The summertime views around the southern settlement of Narsarsuaq (included in the ‘Sightseeing‘ section below) are of a very ‘green’ Greenland. Such green views are unique in Greenland and are only found in the southwest corner of the island during summer.
People
An art exhibition, showcasing Greenlanders, at the Nuuk Local Museum.
Home to 56,000 souls, the population of Greenland is concentrated mainly on the southwest coast, while the rest of the island is sparsely populated.
Inuit-language street sign in Ilulissat.
There are just 13 towns in Greenland, with a population greater than 1,000 inhabitants, while most other towns are small settlements.
All towns in Greenland are separated by great distances and are only reachable by either sea or air. There are no roads on Greenland!
A Greenlandic couple of newlyweds, enjoying the views of their magnificent island from the deck of the Sarfaq Ittuk.
The capital, and largest city is Nuuk, which is home to 17,600 inhabitants. The 2nd largest town is Sisimiut (pop: 5,620), followed by Ilulissat (pop: 4,737) then Qaqortoq (pop: 3,038).
Kalaallit Nunaat (“Country of the Greenlanders”) souvenirs in Qaqortoq.
The Greenlandic people are primarily Inuit who, depending upon the region they are from, call themselves Kalaallit (West Greenlanders), Inugguit (from Thule district), or Iit (East Greenlanders). They call their homeland Kalaallit Nunaat (“Country of the Greenlanders”).
A map in the Greenland Museum showing the migration of native Inuit from Asia, across the Arctic region, to Greenland.
Greenland was first settled by migrating native Inuit tribes who migrated across the North American Arctic region, from Asia, more than 4,500 years ago.
An Inuit whale-bone carving at the Ilulissat Art Museum.
The first Norseman to reach Greenland was Erik the Red in A.D. 982! Norsemen settled the uninhabited southern part of Greenland beginning in the 10th century, having previously settled Iceland.
Detail of Inuit clothing at the Greenland National Museum in Nuuk.
These Norsemen later set sail from Greenland and Iceland, with Leif Erikson becoming the first known European to reach North America nearly 500 years before Columbus reached the Caribbean islands.
Since at least the 17th century, Denmark has affirmed sovereignty over Greenland. In 1979, Denmark granted home rule to Greenland and; in 2008, Greenlanders voted in favour of the Self-Government Act, which transferred more power from the Danish government to the local Greenlandic government.
The Inuit gave the world the ‘Kayak, seen here at the Greenland National Museum in Nuuk.
While the Danish government still retains control of citizenship, monetary policy and foreign affairs, including defence, the local Greenland government takes responsibility for all other domestic affairs.
Filipino staff at the ‘Arctic Sari Sari’ store, a Filipino mini-market, in Nuuk.
Of the population today, 90% are Inuit, while the remaining 10% is made up of Danes, Filipinos and Thais! There are currently 200 Filipinos working on Greenland, mostly in the service industry.
Inuit Handicrafts
The Ajagaq workshop in Nuuk is a great place to view traditional Inuit artisans at work and also offers the best value souvenirs on all of Greenland.
The Inuit have a strong cultural identity and artistic tradition, dating back thousands of years. The Kalaallit are known for an art form of figures called tupilak or a “spirit object”.
A bone-carver at the Ajagaq workshop was working on these carvings at the time of my visit.
Traditional art-making practices thrive in workshops throughout the country, including at the excellent Ajagaq workshop, which is located in an industrial estate in Nuuk. If you are looking to purchase your own “spirit object”, this is the place to do it – direct from the artisan!
The friendly Inuit gem-stone carver at the Ajagaq workshop in Nuuk.
Housed in a 2-story tin shed, the workshop is home to bone carvers, gem-stone carvers, woodworkers and soap-stone carvers. The artisans allow you to watch them at work and each of the rooms features a display case where finished products are displayed for sale.
An amazing work-in-progress, a dazzling cluster of Greenland rubies, at the Ajagaq workshop in Nuuk.
Prices at the Ajagaq workshop are a bargain compared to what you’ll pay at a fancy downtown boutique.
Flag
The flag of Greenland, as seen on the deck of the Sarfaq Ittuk.
The flag of Greenland was designed by Thue Christiansen and adopted on 21 June 1985. It is called Erfalasorput, which means “our flag”.
The red colour is called Aappalaartoq (“red”) and is used both in the Greenland flag and the Danish flag (Dannebrog). The red and white symbolise hundreds of years as part of the Kingdom of Denmark.
The flag of Greenland, flying outside the Katuaq Cultural Centre in Nuuk.
The design features two equal horizontal bands of white and red with a large disk slightly to the hoist side of centre.
The white stripe represents the many glaciers and the huge ice cap, which covers more than 80% of the island; while the red stripe, represents the ocean and the disk represents the sun.
The flags of Greenland and Denmark flying in Nuuk.
Currency
The Danish krone is the official currency of Greenland.
The official currency of Greenland is the Danish krone, which has the international currency code of DKK.
Banknotes are issued in denominations of 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000 kroner.
Little cash is used on Greenland, with most businesses preferring payment with credit card.
Banking services on Greenland are provided by the Bank of Greenland.
Costs
Very Expensive!
Like neighbouring Svalbard, travel costs in Greenland are on the extortionate side. This is no destination for budget travellers!
Flights to and from, and within, Greenland are operated by Air Greenland who take full advantage of their monopoly operation. A return airfare from Copenhagen to Ilulissat in July currently costs DKK10,000 (€1,340) while a short, one-way, domestic flight from Narsarsuaq to Nuuk (1:15 hrs) costs DKK3,000 (€400).
Top-end Accommodation – Explorer Room at Hotel Icefjord in Ilulissat (per night): DKK3,995 (€536)
Taxi from Nuuk airport to downtown Nuuk: DKK120 (€16)
‘Couchette Class’ boat ticket on the MV Sarfaq Ittuk passenger ship from Ilulissat to Qaqortoq (including all meals): DKK4,438 (€596)
Roundtrip International airfare from Copenhagen to Ilulissat with Air Greenland: DKK10,000 (€1,340)
One-way domestic airfare from Narsarsuaq to Nuuk (1:15 hrs) with Air Greenland: DKK3,000 (€400)
Philately
Greenland stamps are issued by Greenland Post.
The stamps of remote Greenland are popular among collectors around the world.
The stamps of Greenland depict local cultural themes.
Greenland Post, branded locally as Tusass, issues stamps each year which feature the culture, nature and history of Greenland. They currently provide philatelic services to collectors in more than 50 counties across the world.
Postal services are provided by Greenland Post – known locally as ‘Tusass’.
While in Greenland, you can purchase stamps at the local Tusass post office, or at major hotels.
The stamps of Greenland feature Arctic wildlife such as walruses.
From outside of Greenland, you can purchase stamps online from the Tusass website.
Midnight Sun
A collage of the midnight sun, taken by me from the deck of the Sarfaq Ittuk, with exposures every 20-minutes.
The midnight sun is a natural phenomenon that occurs in the summer months in places north of the Arctic Circle or south of the Antarctic Circle, when the Sun remains visible at the local midnight.
The midnight sun over Disko Bay, Ilulissat.
The midnight sun is visible in latitudes from 65°44′ to 90° north or south, and does not stop exactly at the Arctic Circle or the Antarctic Circle, due to refraction.
In Greenland, the Midnight sun can be observed in areas to the north of Sisimiut, which includes Ilulissat. However, due to refraction, Nuuk (latitude: 64.1743° N), experiences 24 hours of daylight during the summer months.
The opposite phenomenon, polar night, occurs in winter, when the Sun stays below the horizon throughout the day.
Sarfaq Ittuk
The most significant sightseeing opportunity in Greenland!
The Sarfaq Ittuk passenger ship arriving in Ilulissat.
The most vital public transport service in Greenland is provided by the Sarfaq Ittuk, a passenger ship operated by Arctic Umiaq Line, which plies the waters of southwest Greenland, providing a vital lifeline to eleven remote towns and settlements.
Cruising past icebergs on the Sarfaq Ittuk.
While the ship provides a crucial service for communities along the southwest coast, it also provides tourists with an affordable way of moving along the coast and experiencing the incredible scenery which Greenland offers in abundance.
The Sarfaq Ittuk offers incredible views of the Greenland coastline.
The Sarfaq Ittuk provides a Greenland sightseeing cruise – at a bargain price!
A journey on the Sarfaq Ittuk offers incredible views of the coast of Greenland.
If you would rather cruise along the spectacular coast while rubbing shoulders with ordinary Greenlanders, the Sarfaq Ittuk is for you.
A rare, and very candid photo of me, taken by fellow passenger, and Danish traveller extraordinaire, Carsten Riddersholm. I had no idea he had taken it until he emailed it to me!
Of the passengers onboard, 90% are locals commuting to other towns, while 10% are sightseeing tourists.
The deck of the Sarfaq Ittuk provides perfect wildlife viewing.
The ship provides a fascinating insight into life in remote Greenlandic communities.
In the distance, a huge glacier drains into the sea, a typical sight on the coast of Greenland.
At each stop, the ship is greeted by hordes of emotional locals who are waiting on the dock for returning family and friends or saying farewell to a loved one who might be relocating elsewhere.
A view of the coast of Greenland, near Kangaamiut.
The ship’s route takes it through many protected channels which offer the best sightseeing opportunities.
The breath-taking scenery inside one of the many channels which the Sarfaq Ittuk sailed through.
It’s in these channels where whales prefer to feed, and where the towering mountains seem to close in on you.
A view of one of the hundreds of glaciers which line the coast of Greenland.
In places, it seems the ship will not fit through the narrow passageways which are always surrounded of towering, granite cliffs.
For the captain of the Sarfaq Ittuk, the calmer waters of the many channels are preferred over the rougher open sea.
Route
The Sarfaq Ittuk sails between Ilulissat and Qaqortoq.
The ship sails on a regular basis between the northern town of Ilulissat and the southern town of Qaqortoq, a distance of about 1,000 km, calling at a total of 11 ports.
The view from the deck of the Sarfaq Ittuk passenger ship.
Schedule
The sailing schedule can be viewed online at the company website. I joined the ship in Ilulissat and travelled the full length of the journey, arriving in the southern port town of Qaqortoq three days later.
Leaving Ilulissat on board the Sarfaq Ittuk.
Many passengers choose to travel from Nuuk either north or south, with a flight at either end. You can also stop off in other towns, depending on your preference.
A journey on the Sarfaq Ittuk will provide a lifetime of memories.
Rates
Rates are published online on the company website.
Tickets should be purchased online, in advance.
The Sarfaq Ittuk allows you to get up close to many towering icebergs.
The ship carries 270 passengers, with accommodation options including either private cabins or the more communal, and budget-friendly, ‘couchette’ class.
A view of the Greenland coast near Sisimiut.
As a single traveller, I paid DKK3,275 (€440) to travel in ‘couchette’ class, which meant using shared bathrooms, for the entire journey. As a comparison, the cost of a single cabin would have been DKK8,575 (€1,152).
Icebergs are a constant obstacle for the crew of the Sarfaq Ittuk.
If you are travelling in a group, there are 2,3 and 4-bed cabins available which work out to be much more affordable on a per person basis.
Travelling through one of many channels on the Sarfaq Ittuk.
Meals
Meals are served in the restaurant, three-times per day, and can either be purchased in advance or paid for separately.
The Sarfaq Ittuk entered through this wall of fog south of Nuuk and remained in the fog for much of the day.
Since there are no other meal options, I chose to prepay for all meals which cost me an additional DKK270(€36) per day.
The scenery along the coast of Greenland reminded me of Antarctica.
The food which is served is bland, uninspired, cafeteria-style food! Meals were not a highlight of the trip.
The Ilulissat Icefjord is the #1 tourist attraction in Greenland.
Note: The towns in the Sightseeing section are arranged in the order in which I visited them. The capital, Nuuk, was the last town I visited and as such is located at the bottom of this section.
What you are looking at is the sea – a view of the ice-filled Ilulissat Icefjord.
Ilulissat
Hiking trails in Ilulissat offer stunning views of the magnificent Ilulissat Icefjord.
If you could visit just one place in Greenland, it would have to be Ilulissat!
Large enough to land a small plane upon – this is a floating iceberg!
The number one tourist attraction in Greenland is the incredible Ilulissat Icefjord, one of three UNESCO World Heritage sites in Greenland.
A diagram showing a cross-section view of the Ilulissat Icefjord. Source: https://journals.ametsoc.org/view/journals/phoc/45/1/jpo-d-14-0044.1.xml
The Ilulissat Icefjord serves as the outlet of the Jackobshavn glacier, which drains the Greenland Ice Sheet. This is one of the few places where the ice sheet reaches the sea.
I spent one week in Ilulissat and never tired of the views of the spectacular Icefjord.
The glacier is one of the most active in the world, calving around 35 km3 of ice per year.
Icebergs on top of icebergs! The larger icebergs block the mouth of the Icefjord, resulting in an iceberg traffic jam!
The icebergs, which calve from the Jackobshavn glacier, slowly float down the 50 km long, 550 metre deep, Ilulissat Icefjord.
This is the definition of breath-taking! Hard to believe this is real!
Eventually they reach the sea, and mouth of the Icefjord which is a much shallower 250 metres.
Canada Geese at Ilulissat.
Many of the larger icebergs become stuck at this shallow point, remaining in place for many years, until they break up into smaller icebergs.
A view of the Ilulissat Icefjord from a hiking trail. Warning signs in this bay warn against tsunami waves caused by calving icebergs.
For visitors, there are numerous options for getting up close to these majestic ice mountains. There are a number of hiking trails, which set out from the Ilulissat Icefjord Visitor’s Centre.
The Ilulissat Icefjord Visitor’s Centre provides information on the Ilulissat Icefjord and is the starting point for various hiking trails.
Warning signs along the coast warn of the possibility of tsunami waves which can result from the calving of huge blocks of ice from the glacier, which is located 50 km inland.
The wooden roof of the Ilulissat Icefjord Visitor’s Centre offers its own walking trail.
Icefjord Boat Cruise
Getting up close to the Ilulissat icebergs on a Disko Line Icefjord cruise.
You can also choose to do one of the nightly Icefjordboat cruises which depart from Ilulissat port.
Getting up close to the icebergs on a Disko Line Icefjord cruise.
I travelled with Disko Line – the same folks who run speedboat taxi services along the west coast of Greenland.
Crystal-clear glacier ice from the waters of Disko Bay.
During the cruise, our crew fished out of the water, a chunk of pure, crystal-clear, glacier ice.
A gin cocktail with a chunk of glacier ice is a highlight of a Disko Line Icefjord cruise.
This was broken up into smaller chunks, placed inside a crystal glass into which a gin cocktail was added. The cocktail featured a locally-produced syrup and Greenland Post (a local version of the herb – rosemary).
I asked “When does the bar close?” to which one witty passenger replied “When the ice runs out“. Ha-ha!
The guide on our Disko Line Icefjord cruise, providing information on the Icefjord.
Highly Recommended!
It’s hard to believe that these are floating mountains of ice!
While the Icefjord dominates everything in Ilulissat, the town holds a few other attractions.
A boardwalk hiking trail which leads to the Icefjord from the visitor’s centre.
Zion’s Church
The picturesque Zion’s church, overlooks Disko Bay in Ilulissat.
Occupying an incredible setting, overlooking the iceberg-filled Disko Bay, the very photogenic Zion’s church is the oldest church in Greenland.
The flag of Greenland flying alongside Zion’s church in Ilulissat.
When it was completed in 1779, this Lutheran church was the largest building in Greenland.
Ilulissat Art Museum
The Ilulissat Art Museum holds an interesting collection of Arctic-themed art.
Opened in 1995, the Ilulissat Art Museum is housed in the former residence of the colony manager, which was constructed in 1923.
One of the galleries inside the Ilulissat Art Museum.
The focus of the museum is Arctic-themed art, with the permanent collection comprised of a series of paintings by Emanuel A. Petersen, a Danish impressionist and modern painter who specialised in the Arctic.
Knud Rasmussen Museum
The Knud Rasmussen Museum contains displays which tell of the life of Knud Rasmussen, local explorer and anthropologist.
Otherwise known as the Ilulissat Museum, the Knud Rasmussen Museum is dedicated to the man himself. Knud Johan Victor Rasmussen was a Greenlandic–Danish polar explorer and anthropologist.
The stairway of the Knud Rasmussen Museum is lined with seal skins.
The son of a Danish missionary and a Danish-Inuit mother, Rasmussen was born in Ilulissat, where he spent his early years immersing himself in the Inuit culture.
Apart from learning the Inuit language, he learnt to hunt, drive dog sleds and live in harsh Arctic conditions.
Displays inside the Knud Rasmussen Museum in Ilulissat.
A true Arctic specialist, he was the first European to cross the Northwest Passage via dog sled. Wow!
Aasiaat
A view of Aasiaat from the Sarfaq Ittuk.
Located at the southern end of Disko Bay, Aasiaat is the 2nd stop of the Sarfaq Ittuk on its meander south. Home to 3,069 inhabitants, Aasiaat is Greenland’s 4th largest town.
The midnight sun, as seen from the deck of the Sarfaq Ittuk, near Aasiaat,
Sisimiut
A view of Sisimiut, the 2nd largest town in Greenland.
Sisimiut has been a settlement site for around 4,500 years. It is considered to be the cradle of civilisation for the Greenlandic people.
A view of Sisimiut, Greenland.
Today, Sisimiut is home to 5,582 inhabitants, making it the 2nd largest town in Greenland.
The Sisimiut Museum showcases 4,500 years of settlement in the region.
The Inuit of the Thule culture, whose descendants form the majority of the current population, arrived nearly a thousand years ago, with the first arrivals dated to approximately 13th and 14th century.
Sleds, parked on the side of the road in Sisimiut.
The first wave of settlers was the Saqqaq culture, who arrived 4,500 years ago from Arctic Canada during the first wave of immigration, occupying numerous sites on the coast of western Greenland.
The beautiful, blue Bethelkirken is a highlight of the Sisimiut Museum complex.
If you are travelling on the Sarfaq Ittuk, you will have a 3-hour port call, which is ample time to explore the few sights in town, which are focussed around the excellent Sisimiut Museum complex.
Detail from the Bethelkirken, Sisimiut.
The museum is housed in a number of old colonial buildings, some of which have been transported to the site.
Interior view of the Bethelkirken, which was first pre-assembled in Copenhagen before being shipped to Sisimiut.
A highlight of the museum is the beautiful blue church, Bethelkirken, which is Greenland’s oldest church, dating from 1771.
Fridge magnet souvenirs of Sisimiut.
The church has a fascinating history, having first been pre-fabricated in Copenhagen in 1771, for which the people paid with 60 barrels of blubber from four whales.
Displays at the Sisimiut Museum.
It was at first erected and disassembled in Denmark, so that the parts could be numbered, in order to allow the people in Greenland to erect it themselves.
A turf house, and other buildings, which form the Sisimiut Museum complex.
Apart from the church, the museum is home to a turf house, various historic wooden boats, and an archaeological exhibition where you can see relics from the Saqqaq culture.
Modern houses in Sisimiut.
Getting There
Air
Air Greenland operate regular domestic flights from Sisimiut airport to both Nuuk and Kangerlussuaq Airport, which is located 129 km inland from Sisimiut.
Sea
The Sarfaq Ittuk calls at Sisimiut during its journey along the coast, spending 3-hours in port.
Kangaamiut
A stunning setting! The settlement of Kangaamiut is a port of call for the Sarfaq Ittuk.
Located south of Sisimiut, the tiny settlement of Kangaamiut (pop: 293) is tucked into a tight bay, which is surrounded on almost all sides by large granite mountains and submerged granite boulders.
The Sarfaq Ittuk deploys its tender in order to access the small settlement of Kangaamiut.
The narrow entrance to the harbour meant that, during its port call, the Sarfaq Ittuk had to moor in a nearby channel, while the boat’s tender was lowered into the water and used to transfer passengers to and from the boat. It was a fascinating operation!
Transferring passengers from the Sarfaq Ittuk to the small dock in Kangaamiut.
Although settled by the Danish in 1755, Kangaamiut has experienced a significant population decline in recent years, losing more than 36% of its population relative to 1990 and more than 26% relative to 2000.
The tiny settlement of Kangaamiut is one of eleven ports served by the Sarfaq Ittuk.
Getting There
Apart from the Sarfaq Ittuk, Kangaamiut can be reached via speedboat from Maniitsoq with the Maniitsoq Tour Boat company.
A local from Kangaamiut travelled out in his boat to greet the Sarfaq Ittuk.
Greenland Summer Houses
Can you spot the summer houses in these images?
Where do Greenlanders go for their summer holidays? Those that live in remote settlements such as Kangaamiut or Maniitsoq face difficulties when wanting to travel.
Can you spot the summer houses in these images?
Air connections are limited and expensive and the weekly Sarfaq Ittuk boat is hardly convenient! It’s an almost impossible feat to pack your bags and head to a beach in Spain or Portugal.
For some, the solution is a remote summer house!
As seen from the sea, this summer house is built in the shadow of the icing-smooth, Greenland Ice Sheet.
These lonely escapes can be seen standing in complete isolation along the shores of the remote fjords.
A Greenland summer house provides the perfect opportunity to drop off the grid!
Maniitsoq
Out first glimpse of Maniitsoq from the Sarfaq Ittuk.
Maniitsoq is home to 2,534 inhabitants, making it the sixth-largest town in Greenland.
Video:
Arriving in Maniitsoq on the Sarfaq Ittuk with a group of local school children returning home.
Archaeological finds indicate that the area has been settled for more than 4,000 years. The modern town dates to 1782, when Danish colonists established a settlement here.
At each port, such as Maniitsoq, crowds of family and friends gather to greet and farewell loved ones.
Maniitsoq, which is located 148 km north of Nuuk, is a popular winter sport destination, offering heli-skiing in the interior regions.
The Sarfaq Ittuk provides a lifeline to remote coastal settlements such as Maniitsoq.
As with nearby Kangaamiut, Maniitsoq has experienced a decline in population, losing almost 15% of its population relative to 1990 levels, and nearly 9% relative to 2000 levels.
The midnight sun near Maniitsoq.
Getting There
Air
Air Greenland operate regular domestic flights from Maniitsoqairport to both Nuuk and Kangerlussuaq Airport.
Sea
The Sarfaq Ittuk makes a brief port call during its journey along the coast.
Paamiut
On its southbound journey, the Sarfaq Ittuk arrives in Paamiut, just before midnight.
With a population of 1,308 inhabitants, Paamiut is the tenth-largest town in Greenland. It is one of the 11 stops made by the Sarfaq Ittuk on its epic meander along the southwest coast of Greenland.
Qaqortoq
A view of Qaqortoq, the largest town in southern Greenland, with the Qaqortoq Museum (black building) in the foreground.
Beautiful and charming Qaqortoq (pop: 3,050) is the largest town in southern Greenland. It was near here that Eric the Red first arrived and named the country Greenland.
A summertime view of Lake Tasersuaq.
Qaqortoq is home to one of three UNESCO World Heritage sites in Greenland. The ‘Kujataa‘ site, which is located on the shores of Lake Tasersuaq, represents the earliest introduction of farming to the Arctic and the Norse expansion of settlement beyond Europe.
Qaqortoq is located between the sea and the picturesque Lake Tasersuaq.
The small, compact, colonial-era, town centre lies between the port and the picturesque Lake Tasersuaq.
The charming Church of Our Saviour in Qaqortoq, which dates from 1832.
Sights in town include the beautiful Church of Our Saviour which was built in 1832.
The memorial, and lifebuoy ring, from the MS Hans Hedtoft, inside the Church of Our Saviour in Qaqortoq.
The church houses the commemorative wreath and the lifebuoy for the MS Hans Hedtoft, which sank south of Cape Farewell, on her maiden voyage on January 30, 1959.
The interior of the Church of Our Saviour in Qaqortoq.
The lifebuoy was found on Iceland and is the only wreckage found of the ship.
The Qaqortoq museum is housed in a former blacksmith’s workshop.
A short walk from the church, the Qaqortoq museum is housed in a former blacksmith’s workshop. The museum, which has erratic opening hours, features displays on the history of southern Greenland.
One of many beautiful stone carvings which can be seen around Qaqortoq.
Despite its small size, Qaqortoq is home to a large, creative artistic community.
As you walk around town, you can’t help but notice the numerous stone carvings, which have been carved out of the many large granite boulders which lie around town.
Step inside the HotelQaqortoq to view the many ‘polar bear’ paintings which line the walls of the hotel – the work of another local artist.
A giant Inuit boot graces the entrance to the Hotel Qaqortoq.
Then there is the giant Inuit boot which has been installed in front of the Hotel Qaqortoq!
Getting There
Views of the Tunulliarfik Fjord from my Disko Line speedboat, travelling from Qaqortoq to Narsarsuaq.
Air
Although it is the largest town in the south, Qaqortoq is currently served by a helipad, with helicopter transfers to Narsarsuaq airport, which connect with a once-daily domestic flight to Nuuk.
Air Greenland operate 20-minute helicopter flights from Qaqortoq to Narsarsuaq airport, with a one-way ticket costing around DKK1,100 (€148).
All of this will change once the new Qaqortoq International airport is completed in 2025.
Sea
The Sarfaq Ittuk, docked at Qaqortoq.
Qaqortoq is the southernmost port of call for the Sarfaq Ittuk, which arrives in town at 4 pm each Wednesday and then commences its northbound journey 3-hours later at 7 pm.
If you are travelling on the Sarfaq Ittuk, and not disembarking in Qaqortoq, the 3-hour port of call is enough time to explore the town.
The Disko Line dock in Qaqortoq.
Qaqortoq is the main southern hub for Disko Line speedboats, which depart from the port, and offer speedy connections to all towns in the south.
A view of Qaqortoq from my Disko Line speedboat.
A boat trip through the southern fjords is stunning and something worth experiencing.
Narsarsuaq
A view of Narsarsuaq in summer.
If you are looking for the ‘green‘ in Greenland, you only need to visit the tiny settlement of Narsarsuaq in summer. Prior to 1941, this was a quiet, forgotten part of the world.
This friendly Icelandic horse, which is owned by a local farmer, was free to wander around Narsarsuaq.
An aerial survey by the United States Military, in 1941, identified the long, flat glacial valley at Narsarsuaq as an ideal location for a WWII air base.
Memorial at the Narsarsuaq Museum.
The Americans arrived, via a ship convoy from New York City, and set about building an 1,830-metre (6,004 ft) airstrip.
During their stay at Narsarsuaq, the Americans introduced trees to the area – the only trees to be found on Greenland.
Today, the old air base serves as Narsarsuaq International airport, offering one domestic flight per day to Nuuk and helicopter transfers to towns in southern Greenland.
A view of the glacial valley at Narsarsuaq.
The airport is the only reason for the existence of the tiny settlement, which is home to 120 souls, most of whom work at the airport.
Roads, which were built by the Americans during WWII, are still in use in Narsarsuaq.
All of this is scheduled to change once the new Qaqortoq International airport is opened in 2025.
Narsarsuaq offers many excellent hiking opportunities.
I have been told that Narsarsuaq airport will be moth-balled and the Narsarsuaq hotel will be closed.
A hay field, set inside the glacial valley at Narsarsuaq.
However, the area around Narsarsuaq offers much tourist potential, with many wonderful hiking opportunities, including up to the Greenland Ice Sheet.
A lone chimney in Narsarsuaq is all that remains from a former US Military hospital.
Getting There
Air
Narsarsuaq is currently one of 3 international airports on Greenland. During the summer season, there are very occasional flights connecting this sleepy outpost to Copenhagen and Reykjavik.
Air Greenland helicopter transfers from Qaqortoq, and other towns in the south, arrive at the airport and connect with the one domestic flight each day to Nuuk.
Sea
Disko Line offer fast speed boat transfers from Narsarsuaq to Narsak and Qaqortoq.
The settlement of Narsarsuaq lies at the end of the stunning Tunulliarfik Fjord.
Nuuk
A collage – “The Houses of Nuuk”.
Greenland National Museum
Ethnographic displays at the Greenland National Museum in Nuuk.
The oldest museum on Greenland, the Greenland National Museum features ethnographic displays, artefacts from archaeological digs and even some spectacular mummies!
Details of Inuit clothing at the Greenland National Museum.
Greenland Mummies
Found in a cave in 1972, these perfectly preserved mummies include a 6-month-old child.
A truly spectacular sight, hidden away in a back room of the Greenland National Museum, are a group of perfectly preserved mummies, still wearing their clothes and boots.
A 500-year-old mummy, fully dressed in boots, a coat and a hat.
This is one quirky attraction which I was not expecting to find on Greenland!
These 500-year-old mummies were found frozen under a pile of stones in a cave, near the northern town of Uummannaq, by two brothers in 1972.
The two grave chambers contained six adult women and two children, including a 6-month-old child.
The Uummannaq mummies are fully dressed, ready for their journey in their afterlife.
They are considered to be the best-preserved human remains ever discovered in North America, with the mummies fully dressed, including boots, ready for their journey in the afterlife.
A truly incredible sight!
Nuuk Local Museum
Located next door to the Greenland National Museum, the much smaller Nuuk Lokalmuseum features contemporary displays related to the people and history of Nuuk.
A statue in Nuuk provides the perfect resting place for a young Inuit girl.
Church of Our Saviour
Built in 1849, the Church of Our Saviour is a prominent landmark in Nuuk.
Established in 1849, Nuuk Cathedral or Church of Our Saviour is a cute, red, wooden Lutheran church which is located in the historic section of Nuuk.
The Danish flag flying in Nuuk.
Hans Egede Statue
A statue of the Danish missionary, Hans Egede, who founded Nuuk in 1728.
Located on a hill, overlooking the Church of Our Saviour, the Statue of Hans Egede commemorates the Danish Lutheran missionary who founded Nuuk in 1728.
If you’re visiting Copenhagen, you’ll find a duplicate statue outside the Frederik’s Church (Marmorkirken).
Cemetery
A cemetery in downtown Nuuk.
There are a couple of cemeteries in downtown Nuuk, both of which are home to a forest of white crosses.
Getting There
Air
Nuuk is the main hub for Air Greenland who operate regular domestic flights to all parts of Greenland.
Each morning, the entire fleet of Air Greenland Dash-8 planes is lined up at Nuuk airport, ready to convey passengers to Kangerlussuaq Airport for the daily Airbus A330 flight to Copenhagen.
Sea
The Sarfaq Ittuk calls at Nuuk during its journey along the coast, spending 3-hours in port.
A view of the ‘beach’ in Nuuk, where the water is a refreshing 2 degrees!
Accommodation
There are surprisingly few hotels on Greenland. Most towns offer one accommodation option while Nuuk, Ilulissat and Sisimiut are the only towns to offer multiple options.
As can be expected from monopoly hotel operations in remote towns, they don’t have to try too hard and they never have to waste money on renovations or ensuring that they are keeping up with the competition!
The best towns for accommodation on Greenland are Ilulissat and Nuuk.
Ilulissat
As the main tourist centre on Greenland, Ilulissat has more hotel options than anywhere else! A full list of Ilulissat hotels can be found on the Visit Greenland website.
While there are many options in Ilulissat, I have highlighted four of my favourites here, including my accommodation choice – the Hotel Icefiord Apartments. These apartments offer the best value for long-term stays.
Hotel Icefiord
One of the best hotels in Ilulissat, the Hotel Icefiord overlooks the iceberg filled Disko Bay.
Occupying the best position of any hotel in Ilulissat, the Hotel Icefiord overlooks the iceberg-filled Disko Bay. If you are on foot, the hotel is about a 15-minute walk from town.
A view of Disko Bay from the balcony of the Hotel Icefiord in Ilulissat.
The hotel offers 36 rooms and 3 apartments which are located next to the hotel.
Apart from being a cosy hotel, offering a breath-taking view of Disko Bay, the Hotel Icefiord is home to a superb restaurant which offers the finest dining experience in Ilulissat (please refer to the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more details on this gem!)
Rates:
Rooms can be booked online, with current rates being:
Deluxe Explorer room (for two) – DKK3,995 (€536)
Hotel Icefiord Apartments
My accommodation at the Hotel Icefiord Apartments in Ilulissat.
Also, by the Hotel Icefiord, the Hotel Icefiord Apartments offer the best value accommodation, especially if you are in town for more than a few days. I spent 6 days in one of their apartments and would happily return again!
The chilly view from the window of my apartment at the Icefiord Apartments in Ilulissat.
The eight, 1-room, apartments are housed in a small wooden building in the centre of town, a short walk from most cafes, restaurants and the supermarket.
An added extra here is the communal laundry, which is highly appreciated by someone who is always on the road.
Rates:
Rooms can be booked online, with current rates being:
Standard Apartment (1 person) – DKK1,260 (€170)
Standard Apartment (2 persons) – DKK1,560 (€210)
Hotel Arctic
The Hotel Arctic bills itself as the world’s northernmost four-star hotel.
Located on the northern outskirts of town, on the way to the airport, the Hotel Arctic claims to be the world’s northernmost four-star hotel.
A regular (free) shuttle bus connects the hotel to town, although it is just a 15-minute walk and the views over Ilulissat are stunning in all directions.
The view over Disko Bay from the boardwalk at the Hotel Arctic, Ilulissat.
At the rear of the hotel, an elevated boardwalk provides stunning views over Disko Bay.
The hotel restaurant, Brasserie Ulo, offers divine cuisine and a sunny terrace overlooking Disko Bay.
Every Saturday, the terrace is the venue for a Greenlandic BBQ which costs DKK395 (€53) per person.
Rates:
Rooms can be booked online, with current rates being:
Standard double room – DKK2,575 (€346)
Superior room – DKK2,776 (€373)
Premium double room – DKK2,969 (€399)
Junior double room – DKK3,371 (€453)
Best Western Plus Hotel Ilulissat
The newest hotel in Ilulissat, and the only high rise in town, the ‘Best Western Plus Hotel Ilulissat’ offers the best views of Ilulissat from its rooftop restaurant.
Rising like a shiny beacon from the centre of Ilulissat, the Best Western Plus Hotel Ilulissat is the first high-rise building in Ilulissat, the first Best Western property in Greenland and the first hotel built in Greenland by a major international hotel chain.
The hotel offers a fancy lobby, beautiful, modern, crisp rooms and an unbeatable panoramic view over Ilulissat and Disko Bay from the rooftop restaurant.
The main reason to visit the Best Western hotel – the spectacular view over Ilulissat and Disko Bay from the rooftop restaurant.
The hotel offers 78 modern rooms in 5 different room types – 30 standard rooms, 12 family rooms, 18 executive rooms, 16 superior rooms and 2 suites.
Rates:
Rooms can be booked online, with current rates being:
Standard room – DKK2,560 (€344)
Superior room – DKK2,746 (€369)
Family room – DKK3,700 (€497)
Executive/ Suite room – DKK4,265 (€573)
Nuuk
The Hotel Hans Egede in downtown Nuuk.
The capital of Greenland boasts more than a dozen hotel options.
The leading hotel in town is the centrally located Hotel Hans Egede, which also operates nearby apartments and the much newer (and my accommodation choice) – the Hotel HHE Express (HHE = Hotel Hans Egede).
Hotel HHE Express
Modern and very new! My room at the Hotel HHE Express in Nuuk.
While in Nuuk, I chose to stay at the newly opened Hotel HHE Express which is part of the Hotel Hans Egede family.
The rooms are well designed, apart from the fact that the beds are jammed up against the window, and a buffet breakfast is included in the nightly rate.
The 2-star Hotel HHE Express offers comfortable, modern rooms in the heart of Nuuk.
The hotel is located in the heart of Nuuk, a short walk from everything.
Highly Recommended!
Rates:
Rooms can be booked online, with current rates being:
Express room – DKK1,085 (€146)
Plus room – DKK1,260 (€169)
Sea room – DKK1,355 (€182)
Qaqortoq
Hotel Qaqortoq
The excellent Hotel Qaqortoq, which is perched on a small hill, overlooking the tourist information centre and the port.
An exception to the rule of “monopoly hotels in remote towns not trying too hard” is the amazing HotelQaqortoq.
The only property in tiny Qaqortoq, the Hotel Qaqortoq offers beautiful, well-designed, comfortable rooms overlooking the port.
Everything here, from the service, food and facilities is excellent.
My room at the Hotel Qaqortoq, which included a seal-skin throw on the bed.
The Hotel Qaqortoq was my favourite hotel in Greenland!A very nice buffet breakfast is included in the nightly room rate, while the hotel restaurant, Café/ Brasserie Nanoqis one of the most popular meeting places for locals.
If you’re arriving on the Sarfaq Ittuk, the hotel is located directly in front of the port, a 2-minute (uphill) walk.
Polar bear artwork adorns the walls of the Hotel Qaqortoq.
What I especially loved about the Hotel Qaqortoq was that it is both a hotel and art gallery. The walls of the hotel are lined with iconic polar bear paintings from a local artist.
Such beautiful works of art!
Rates:
Rooms can be booked online, with current rates being:
Single room – DKK1,495 (€200)
Double/ Twin room – DKK1,895 (€255)
A polar bear skin and polar bear artwork adorn the walls of the Hotel Qaqortoq.
Narsarsuaq
Hotel Narsarsuaq
Old and dated – my room at the Hotel Narsarsuaq.
At the other end of the comfort and style spectrum – the very average Hotel Narsarsuaq is very much a monopoly hotel which doesn’t try to impress!
The hotel offers the only accommodation in tiny Narsarsuaq (pop: 120), with 92 old and tired rooms lining a long corridor in two annexes.
The reading room at the Hotel Narsarsuaq.
Located across the road from the airport, the hotel is operated by the airport company and is scheduled to be closed once Narsarsuaq airport is closed (scheduled for 2025 – but subject to delays).
Hotel Narsarsuaq has an institutional feel to it and reminded me of sad and forlorn hotels in the former Soviet Union.
The upstairs restaurant is one of two places to eat in Narsarsuaq (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more details) and serves as the cafeteria for the airport workers.
Rates:
Rooms can be booked online, with current (summer) rates being:
Single room – DKK1,415 (€190)
Eating Out
What’s the most popular restaurant food among the local Inuit? Hamburgers, French fries, nachos and chicken nuggets!
Restaurants and cafes on Greenland serve standard international staples. If you wish to sample local produce, such as reindeer or freshly caught halibut fish, you’ll find these on the menu in some of the more expensive, fine dining restaurants.
The cost of eating out is affordable, with most cafes and restaurants full of locals at lunchtime (the most important meal of the day). The cost of a sandwich or hamburger, with drink, is around DKK150 (€20).
Restaurants/ Cafés
Ilulissat
Icefiord Hotel Restaurant
The view over Disko Bay from the restaurant at the Icefiord Hotel in Ilulissat.
Ilulissat is blessed with many dining options, including the Icefiord Hotel Restaurant which serves the most amazing gourmet food.
The informal dining room overlooks the totally surreal Disko Bay, which is normally full of floating icebergs.
Main courses include local reindeer, freshly caught redfish, musk ox and even a Halibut ceviche! Everything is presented perfectly and the servers will explain every aspect of your dish.
This is a compulsory dining experience for visiting gourmets!
A truly divine meal – reindeer fillets in a red-wine reduction with berries and beetroot prepared 3 different ways!
For my main course, I enjoyed the local reindeer fillets which included beetroot served 3 different ways – including smoked beetroot which is smoked onsite in their smokehouse. An amazing explosion of flavours!
The desserts are equally divine! I finished my meal with their apple sorbet, which was served with apples cooked three different ways, roasted meringue, salted caramel and crispy oats.
Eating at the Icefiord Hotel restaurant is a splurge – but totally worth it!
Best Western Ilulissat Hotel Restaurant
A view of Ilulissat and Disko Bay from the rooftop restaurant at the Best Western Hotel Ilulissat.
While the views of Disko Bay from the Icefiord Hotel restaurant are unbeatable, the panoramic views from the rooftop of the newly opened Best Western Hotel Ilulissat are also impressive!
My delicious steak dinner at the Best Western Hotel Ilulissat restaurant.
The menu includes a 225g steak (DKK238 / €32) served with French fries and a sauce of your choice.
A .45L glass of beer costs DKK75 (€10).
Cafennguaq
The Cafennguaq in Ilulissat is a popular lunchtime cafe for locals.
A popular lunchtime choice for locals in Ilulissat, the busy Cafennguaq serves tasty sandwiches along with the regular favourites (hamburgers, nachos, chicken nuggets etc).
If you wish to get a seat, its best to arrive before the 12 pm rush-hour.
Qaqortoq
There are just a couple of worthwhile restaurants and cafes in tiny Qaqortoq.
Kunguak Cafe & Icebar
Located out towards the lake, the tiny Kunguak Cafe and Ice bar serves the best coffee in Qaqortoq.
Located on the road which leads out of town, towards the lake, the Kunguak Cafe & Icebar is the one place in town where you can enjoy a proper Barista-made coffee.
If you do have a caffeine craving, you’ll need to wait until opening time which is 11 am.
All cafes on Greenland open at 11 am for lunch. There is no breakfast culture on Greenland.
The simple interior design of the Kunguak Cafe & Icebar in Qaqortoq.
Apart from serving fine coffee and homemade ice cream, the walls of the cafe serve as an art gallery, displaying artworks by local artists.
Café Nanoq
Part of Hotel Qaqortoq, the front door of the busy Café Nanoq is always open!
The best restaurant in Qaqortoq is Café/ Brasserie Nanoq which is part of the Hotel Qaqortoq.
The restaurant menu includes all the regular favourites such as burgers, pasta, sandwiches and salads.
This is the one other place in town offering Barista-made coffee.
The restaurant is home to the one bar in Qaqortoq – the Qapuk Bar, where you can sample the craft beers from the Qajaq Brewery, which is located in nearby Narsak.
Narsarsuaq
Hotel Narsarsuaq Restaurant
Very tasty! Crumbed Atlantic redfish with French fries and salad at the Hotel Narsarsuaq restaurant.
Although the very-average rooms at the Hotel Narsarsuaq are unremarkable, the meals in the upstairs restaurant are anything but!
There are just two places to eat in Narsarsuaq – the hotel restaurant and the nearby Café Polar-tut, although the hotel restaurant is the only dinnertime option.
Meals include freshly caught Atlantic redfish which is served crumbed with pickled ginger, French fries and salad. Very Nice! Especially when washed down with a craft beer from the folks at the nearby Qajaq Brewery.
Café Polar-tut
Although non-descript from the outside, the Café Polar-tut offers very good meals, coffee and amazing carrot cake!
Of the two dining options in Narsarsuaq, this is my favourite!
I spent two days in town and I ate here most of the time. Café Polar-tut is a slice of culinary heaven in an otherwise gourmet desert!
A café latte and a slice of homemade carrot cake at the Cafe Polar-tut in Narsarsuaq.
The owner, a very friendly and enthusiastic chef/ barista, serves tasty food (the burgers are very popular with the locals) and will offer you a generous slice of her homemade carrot cake to go with your coffee!
The interior of the Cafe Polar-tut in Narsarsuaq.
If you’re feeling thirsty after a hike in the surrounding countryside, a selection of craft beers from the Qajaq Brewery are available on tap. A craft beer and a homemade burger are the perfect lunch!
Nuuk
Kaffivik
Of all the cafes in Greenland, the homey and cosy “Kaffivik” gets my vote as the #1 cafe.
Hidden away in an obscure corner of an industrial estate in Nuuk, the cosy Kaffivik is THE best cafe on Greenland.
With its many sofas and coffee tables, and its coffee roasting room, this cafe/ roasting house sets a high standard for both coffee quality and a cafe experience.
A hidden gem – Kaffivik is located in a blue shed at the end of a road which leads through an industrial estate.
The whole operation is run by a friendly and energetic family who will satisfy any caffeine craving!
Highly recommended!
Pascucci
Danish-speaking, Filipino staff, ensure both Cafe Esmeralda and Pascucci operate efficiently.
Both cafes rely on teams of hard-working Filipinos who keep the coffees, smoothies and food coming throughout the day.
These two cafes are very popular, with people often standing around waiting for a table.
The menus include the standard line-up of favourite local dishes – pasta, burgers, nachos, sandwiches etc.
Café Esmeralda
Café Esmeralda offers the best Sunday brunch in Nuuk.
One thing that differentiates Café Esmeralda from the competition is their excellent Sunday brunch buffet – the best brunch in Nuuk.
Bars
The best local beer on Greenland is brewed by the Qajaq (Kayak) Brewery which is located in the southern town of Narsaq.
There are surprisingly few bars on Greenland, with alcohol being served in cafes and restaurants as an accompaniment to meals.
While most beer in Greenland is imported from Europe, the Qajaq Brewery, (Qajaq = Kayak) located in the southern town of Narsak, is brewing a range of unique, local, craft beers.
Enjoying a glass of the ‘Christmas special’ craft beer from the Qajaq Brewery.
The water which is used in the brewing process is obtained from icebergs which are floating in the fjord, outside the brewery. This water is more than 4,000 years old.
Visa Requirements
My Greenland passport stamp.
Being an autonomous country of the Kingdom of Denmark, Greenland maintains its own visa policy.
Nationals of the Nordic countries are free to enter, reside and work in Greenland, while nationals of other countries exempt from visas for short stays in the Schengen Area may also visit Greenland without a visa.
As an Australian passport holder, my passport was stamped upon entry into Greenland, although there were no controls in Denmark.
Many nationalities do require visas to enter Greenland. These can be obtained from Danish diplomatic missions.
There is only one way of reaching Greenland – by air! Arriving by sea is possible via cruise ship.
Air
Fresh off my flight from Copenhagen, and greeted by summer snow at Kangerlussuaq Airport.
There are three international airports on Greenland:
The main gateway, Kangerlussuaq Airport,which offers one daily international service to Copenhagenairport.
Nuuk Airport which offers international service to Keflavik airport in Reykjavík (Iceland).
The very sleepy Narsarsuaq Airport which is located in southern Greenland and receives very occasional seasonal flights from Copenhagen and Reykjavík.
Both Kangerlussuaq and Narsarsuaq Airport were built in 1941 by the United States military as WWII air bases. Both are in remote, inconvenient locations but, most importantly, they feature long runways, which allow larger jets to land.
All of this will change in the coming years as three new international airports come online, allowing larger jets to arrive directly at Nuuk, Ilulissat and Qaqortoq. This will result in the current international airports, the former air bases, being decommissioned.
Kangerlussuaq Airport
Air Greenland operate one Airbus A330, seen here at Kangerlussuaq Airport, which provides daily connections between Denmark and Greenland.
International flights to Greenland are operated by Air Greenland who have one Airbus A330 in their fleet. This workhorse provides a daily service between Copenhagen airport and Kangerlussuaq Airport.
The tiny terminal at Kangerlussuaq Airport, the main international gateway to Greenland.
The arrival gateway for almost all visitors to Greenland, the underwhelming Kangerlussuaq Airport features a hotel, giftshop and one cafe. A community of 500 souls keeps this remote facility operating. The airport is located 129 km inland from the coastal town of Sisimiut.
There are a couple of tourism operators who provide excursions in the local area. They can be found at a booth inside the terminal.
Boarding an Air Greenland Dash 8-200 plane at Kangerlussuaq Airport.
Almost everyone who arrives at Kangerlussuaq Airport transfers onto waiting Air Greenland Dash 8-200 planes which ferry international arrivals onwards to Nuuk, Ilulissat, Sisimiut and other domestic destinations.
Air Greenland operate a fleet of seven Dash 8-200 planes, whose main purpose is to ferry international passengers to/ from Kangerlussuaq Airport.
Each morning, an airlift operation is conducted by Air Greenland, who use their entire domestic fleet, to transfer passengers from Nuuk, and other destinations, to Kangerlussuaq Airport, in time for the daily departure of the Airbus flight to Copenhagen.
While the Air Greenland Airbus A330 has a capacity of 278 passengers, the Dash 8 planes have a capacity of just 40 passengers!
These same planes are then used to ferry the newly arrived passengers to their final domestic destinations.
Currently, the cost of flying to Greenland is made more expensive due to the fact that a transfer to a domestic flight is required at Kangerlussuaq airport.
A distance sign at Kangerlussuaq Airport.
Immigration Procedure
Immigration procedures are conducted at Kangerlussuaq Airport, with any non-EU passport holders having their passports stamped by Greenlandimmigration.
Narsarsuaq Airport
The terminal at the very sleepy Narsarsuaq Airport.
During the summer season, occasional international flights arrive at Narsarsuaq Airport. The airport mainly serves as a domestic hub for southern Greenland.
Icelandair provides the occasional connection to Keflavik (Reykjavik) airport, while Air Greenland provides, very occasional, services to/from Copenhagen airport.
I have been told by Air Greenland staff, that once the new Qaqortoq International Airport is opened in 2025, Narsarsuaq Airport will be closed.
The interior of Narsarsuaq Airport.
Air Greenland Route Map
Air Greenland Route Map.
International Services
From Kangerlussuaq Airport, Air Greenland provides a daily service to Copenhagen using its one long-haul jet.
From Nuuk, international flights operate to Reykjavík–Keflavík (Iceland).
From NarsarsuaqAirport, very random, seasonal flights operate to Copenhagen and Keflavik.
Domestic Services
Daily domestic connections are provided to Aasiaat, Ilulissat, Maniitsoq, Narsarsuaq, Nuuk and Sisimiut.
A fleet of helicopters provides services to smaller settlements.
Airfares
As a monopoly operator, Air Greenland are free to charge what they want for flight tickets. You can check fares and book flights online.
A typical roundtrip international airfare from Copenhagen to Ilulissat costs around DKK10,000 (€1,340) during the summer season.
Domestic airfares are very expensive, with a one-way flight from Narsarsuaq to Nuuk (1:15 hrs) costing me DKK3,000 (€400).
Airport Development Program
The Greenlandic Government has an ambitious plan to build three new international airports in Greenland by 2025: Nuuk, Ilulissat and Qaqortoq.
Moving mountains – a view of the huge earthworks program which supports the extended runway at Nuuk airport.
In order to extend existing runways, contractors are literally moving mountains and filling up part of the sea.
Capacity Issues
While it’s great that three new international airports will come online in the next few years, there are two critical capacity issues affecting tourism in Greenland:
A lack of aircraft operated by Air Greenland.
A lack of hotel rooms.
Aircraft
Air Greenland currently operate one long-haul jet which is used on their daily flight between Greenland and Denmark.
If more international services are to be introduced, more planes will be required.
On the domestic front, Air Greenland rely on their fleet of seven (ageing) Dash 8-200 planes which have a passenger capacity of just 40!
Recommendations have been made by specialist consultants that the airline replace their current Dash 8 fleet in favour of much larger ATR-72 planes which have a passenger capacity of 72, thereby almost doubling their current carrying capacity. The airline has not acted on this recommendation.
All of this means that the new airports will be under-utilised unless the current fleet is significantly expanded.
Hotels
On the hotel front, most towns have just one hotel. The only towns which offer more than one hotel are Nuuk, Ilulissat and Sisimiut (2 hotels).
During my stay in Ilulissat, the small number of hotels were booked out for most of the summer season.
There are no new hotels being built at the moment which will restrict the number of visitors who can holiday in Greenland.
The new international airports include:
Nuuk
The terminal a Nuuk airport, which is in the process of being converted into an international airport.
A new 2,200 metre runway is being constructed at Nuuk airport, which will allow it to operate as an international airport. The airport is currently operating with a 950-metre-long runway which does not allow large jets to land.
The project consists of a runway, two taxiways, a control tower and a terminal area with an apron. Construction began in January 2020 and, following delays due to Covid-19, is expected to be completed by 2024.
Ilulissat
The terminal at Ilulissat airport, which is in the process of being converted into an international airport.
A new 2,200 metre runway is being constructed at Ilulissat airport, which will allow the domestic airport to operate as an international airport. Construction began in January 2020 and is expected to be completed by 2024.
Qaqortoq
A completely new build, Qaqortoq International Airport will feature a shorter runway at 1,500 metres but will be positioned so that it can be extended up to 1,799 metres.
It is planned that the airport will receive aircraft with 70 – 100 passengers from nearby destinations such as Iceland and Iqaluit (capital of Nunavut, Canada).
Once Qaqortoq International Airport is commissioned (planned for 2025), NarsarsuaqAirport (the current gateway to southern Greenland) will be closed!
Getting Around
A view of the Greenland coast, from the deck of the Sarfaq Ittuk passenger ship.
Greenland is unique in that there are no roads between towns, only within them and around them. There are 150 km (90 mi) of roads on the whole island, with just 60 km (40 mi) of paved surfaces!
There are just three sets of traffic lights on Greenland – all are located alongside each other, on the main street of Nuuk.
It’s always interesting to see luxury German cars in Greenlandic towns, knowing that they can never be driven on an open highway!
The only way to move around Greenland is by air or sea!
Air
An Air Greenland flight arriving at Ilulissat.
Air Greenland are the monopoly operator in Greenland. As can be expected, domestic airfares are horrendously expensive and are beyond the reach of most ordinary Greenlanders who instead chose to travel between towns on the Sarfaq Ittuk.
A view of a glacier and the Greenland Ice Sheet from an Air Greenland flight.
Despite the high price, most flights offer panoramic views of the stunning glaciers and ice sheet. They are the ultimate joy flights!
Air Greenland have seven helicopters in their domestic fleet.
Air Greenland operates a fleet of 7 Dash 8-200 planes and 7 helicopters. Due to the difficult terrain, where runway construction is impossible, many towns have a helipad instead of an airport.
An Air Greenland Dash 8-200 plane at Narsarsuaq Airport.
Sea
The Sarfaq Ittuk, seen here in Qaqortoq port, provides an essential service to 11 remote settlements along the southwest coast of Greenland.
With the cost of domestic flights being on the exorbitant side, the best value travel experience is offered by the one passenger ship – Sarfaq Ittuk – which offers a regular shuttle service along the southwest coast, connecting 11 settlements.
The Sarfaq Ittuk offers the most exciting sightseeing opportunity in Greenland – and an unforgettable travel memory.
For full details, please refer to the ‘Sightseeing’ section.
Nuuk Water Taxi
The Nuuk Water Taxi company provides daily sightseeing excursions on the nearby fjords.
In Nuuk, the Nuuk Water Taxi company provides tours and transport services on the nearby Fjords.
The company offers many different excursions which can be booked on their website. One of their more popular trips is a 3-hour Puffin bird watching safari which costs DKK900(€120).
Disko Line
A Disko Line speedboat departing Qaqortoq for Narsaq.
The Disko Line company offer speedboat shuttle services between towns in northern, central and southern Greenland and also offer a range of exciting sightseeing excursions (please refer to the ‘Ilulissat Sightseeing‘ section for more details).
The view from my Disko Line speedboat, travelling between Qaqortoq and Narsarsuaq.
I travelled from Qaqortoq to Narsarsuaq on one of their scheduled speedboat departures, which cost me DKK890 (€120) for the 1:45 ride.
Views of the Tunulliarfik Fjord from my Disko Line speedboat.
I was the only passenger on the boat, and was free to stand out the back and take photos of the stunning scenery as we rocketed along the spectacular fjords at full speed.
It was a thrilling ride!
Land
Bus
There is just one bus operating a shuttle service between the pier and the airport in the settlement of Narsarsuaq.
Bus services operate in the main towns, including Nuuk, Sisimiut, Ilulissat and even in sleepy Narsarsuaq where one bus – route #01 – provides a free shuttle service between the dock and the airport.
A public bus in Ilulissat.
Taxi
Metered taxis provide services in the major towns, with a taxi from Nuuk airport to downtown Nuuk costing approximately DKK120 (€16) for the 10-minute trip.
Rental Car
Car license plates in Greenland follow the Danish design but are prefixed with either ‘GL’ or ‘GR’.
In a country with no road network, outside of the few towns, there really is no demand for rental cars.
If you need a car while in the capital, there is one car rental agent, Nuuk Biludlejning, which offers cars starting at DKK400 (€54) per day.
That’s the end of my travel guide for Greenland.
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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 212 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
Svalbard is as close as most mere mortals can get to the North Pole, without embarking on an expedition.
A polar bear warning sign outside of Longyearbyen. “Gjelder hele Svalbard” means that the warning applies to all of Svalbard.
A truly magical and surreal archipelago, whose landscapes include pointy, snow-covered peaks and huge glaciers which calve into the sea, Svalbard is home to more polar bears (~20,000) than people.
Dramatic scenery is a constant in this part of the world.
Outside of the settlements, you (or a guide) are required to carry a loaded rifle as protection against polar bear attack.
A view of the mighty Esmark glacier.
One of the world’s northernmost inhabited areas, the main settlement of Longyearbyen lies at latitude 78˚ North – just 1,316 km (817 mi) south of the North Pole.
A beach cabin provides a sense of scale to the monumental scenery on Svalbard.
Svalbard is one of Europe’s last great wildernesses, and the many highlights of the archipelago are to be found along the shores of the remote and uninhabited fjords – the world’s northernmost fjords!
A trip to the abandoned Soviet mining town of Pyramiden is a highlight of Svalbard.
Svalbard’s main settlement, and entry point, is tiny Longyearbyen (pop: 2,368), which is home to a young, transient population of 53 different nationalities.
A view of the Norwegian town of Longyearbyen, the largest settlement on Svalbard.
Svalbard has a unique immigration policy which allows anyone with a work contract to settle and live on the island, regardless of nationality, without requiring any sort of visa!
This attracts a large number of seasonal Asian workers, especially hard-working Filipinos, many of whom have learnt to speak some Norwegian. See the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section below for more on this.
Typical scenery on the Isfjorden, Svalbard.
Travel costs on Svalbard are very high, with a daily budget likely to be in the region of €400 – 500 if you are staying in a decent hotel and participating in a boat trip on the fjord.
The world’s northernmost Fjord, the Billefjorden, is lined by an uninterrupted range of towering mountain peaks.
Svalbard would be a challenging destination for budget travellers! The main target tourist market is established, well-monied travellers who are prepared to pay €200 for a daytrip on a boat (please refer to the ‘Cost‘ section for more details).
Getting up close to a walrus colony is one of many amazing activities on Svalbard.
One of the highlights of my trip was a 7-hour Walrus safari which was operated by the excellent team from Better Moments. The trip involved 6 hours on a speedboat and one hour on the beach with the walrus colony.
The cost of this trip was an eye-watering NOK2,390 (€231) – but it did include a ham sandwich for lunch!
Despite the cost, it was well worth the money and I would recommend it to anyone visiting Svalbard. It would be a shame to come this far and baulk at doing something unique like the walrus safari because of financial considerations.
The abandoned staff cafeteria in the former Russian coal mining town of Pyramiden, a remote ghost town which is now an intriguing tourist attraction.
Svalbard is also home to two Russian coal mining towns, Barentsburg and the, now-abandoned, Pyramiden, both of which are popular daytrips from Longyearbyen.
Mountain peaks surround the settlement of Longyearbyen.
In this Svalbard Travel Guide, I provide a detailed overview of sights, accommodation and restaurant options along with information on getting to the archipelago and getting around.
Community noticeboard, frozen in time, in the former Soviet mining town of Pyramiden.
Location
Longyearbyen 9170, Svalbard and Jan Mayen
Svalbard, also known as Spitsbergen, is a Norwegian archipelago located between mainland Norway and the North Pole. Longyearbyen lies 2,000 km north of Oslo and 836 km north of Nordkapp (the northern most point in Norway).
Due to its extreme northerly position, Svalbard experiences 2.5 months of complete darkness – the “Polar Night” – from mid-November to late January.
During the summer, the “Midnight Sun” is omnipresent (somewhere above the cloud), lasting from late April to late August.
History
Due to its many pointy peaks, Svalbard was originally named ‘Spitsbergen’ by the Dutch explorer Willem Barentsz.
Svalbard, which translates from Old Norse as “Cold Coast”, was originally discovered by Dutch explorers Willem Barents and Jacob van Heemskerck in June 1596.
They named the archipelago Spitsbergen, meaning “pointed mountains”, due to the many pointed mountain peaks which line the coast.
One of two inhabited settlements on Svalbard, the Russian mining town of Barentsburg is named after the Dutch explorer, Willem Barents.
At the time of their arrival, they reported that so great was the number of whales, that navigating between them was difficult.
With the word out, Dutch and English whalers arrived as early as 1611, followed by French, Hanseatic, Danish, and Norwegian whalers, all of whom started arguing over whaling rights and the division of territory.
Eventually, by the time the arguments had settled, they had slaughtered almost all of the whales!
Remains of a coal mine cable-way in Longyearbyen.
With the decline of whaling by 1800, the islands’ importance centred on the presence of coal. The coal deposits on Svalbard date back millions of years, to a time when the archipelago was located in the tropics and was covered with lush vegetation. The deposits are close to the surface which is attractive for mining companies.
Not until the beginning of the 20th century were the deposits surveyed and mineral rights claimed by American, British, Norwegian, Swedish, Dutch, and Russian companies and individuals.
A simple memorial to John Munroe Longyear among the ruins of the old town of Longyearbyen.
One American to arrive on the island was businessman and mining pioneer John Munroe Longyear, who first visited Svalbard on a cruise in 1901, and became interested in developing a coal mining operation.
In 1906, he established the Arctic Coal Company which developed several mines and the associated infrastructure. He named his settlement Longyear City.
In 1916, the Norwegian company, Store NorskeSpitsbergen Kullkompani, took over the mining operations from Longyear’s Arctic Coal Company, and the settlement was renamed Longyearbyen (“Longyear City” in Norwegian).
Svalbard Treaty
The Svalbard Treaty was signed on 9 February 1920 and entered into force on 14 August 1925. The treaty granted possession of the archipelago to Norway and mineral rights, on an equal basis, to various European and other countries.
The abandoned Russian coal mining town of Pyramiden is today a popular tourist attraction.
Only Russia and Norway continue to extract and export coal from mines on the islands, with one mine each operating in Longyearbyen and Barentsburg.
The main economic activity on Svalbard today is tourism.
People
Svalbard has never been home to a native population, unlike neighbouring Greenland which was originally settled by the native Inuit.
Anyone living on Svalbard has arrived from somewhere else.
With a population of 2,368 – Longyearbyen is a cosmopolitan Arctic village whose residents come from no less than 53 different countries.
Unlike everywhere else in Europe, there is no social security on Svalbard which ensures that anyone who is resident is fully self-sufficient and employed.
Limited medical facilities ensure that anyone requiring medical attention, such as the elderly, cannot live on the archipelago.
Due to these conditions, the population of Longyearbyen is generally young, fit, healthy and fully employed. The average age is a relatively young, 30 years, with the bulk of the population being transient, remaining for a few years on short-term work assignments.
Many of the work contracts cover the short summer tourism season, with workers staying on the archipelago for less than 6 months.
Foundation supports, from one of the original buildings in Longyearbyen, have been tilted by the movement of the underlying permafrost.
There are also two important restrictions which apply to the human population on Svalbard:
No one can be born on Svalbard.
No one can be buried on Svalbard.
Due to the limited medical facilities in Longyearbyen, anyone who is pregnant must relocate to Norway, normally Tromsø, for the final term of their pregnancy.
The underlying permafrost is visible in this gully outside of Longyearbyen,
No one can be buried on Svalbard for two good reasons:
Due to the seasonal movement of the earth caused by the thawing and then re-freezing of the underlying permafrost, no one can be buried on Svalbard, lest their body starts re-emerging from the frozen ground at some stage in the future.
Bodies simply won’t decompose in the frozen ground.
A view of the Russian mining town of Barentsburg, the 2nd largest settlement on Svalbard.
The one other settlement on Svalbard is the Russian mining town of Barentsburg, which is located 40 km (about 1 hour by boat) to the south-west of Longyearbyen. This very quiet town is home to a population of 455 souls from Russia and Ukraine.
Facilities in Barentsburg are limited with residents using Longyearbyen for most services, including the airport.
The currency of Svalbard is the Norwegian krone (currency code: NOK), whose name translates into English as “crown”. The currency is issued in notes of 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 krone.
The krone (plural: kroner) is used throughout Svalbard, including in the Russian settlement of Barentsburg.
Credit Cards
If you came to Svalbard without cash, that would not be a problem since every business accepts payment with credit cards. If you prefer to use cash, there is an ATM available in Longyearbyen.
Exchange Rates
Click on the links to view the current exchange rate of 100 NOK against the Euro and US dollar:
The famous polar bear roadside warning sign is featured on a Svalbard stamp.
Postal services on Svalbard, including in the Russian town of Barentsburg, are provided by Norwegian Post, which issues a separate set of Svalbard stamps. The one post office in Longyearbyen is located on the main street.
Located at 78° North, Longyearbyen PO is the world’s northernmost post office.
Svalbard Postmarks
The post office in Longyearbyen also uses unique postmark stamps, featuring a polar bear and reindeer.
The polar bear and reindeer postmarks, which are used at Longyearbyen PO.
When I first saw these postmarks, I commented to the post office staff that these would make ideal souvenir passport stamps, since no immigration stamp exists for Svalbard.
I was told that the post office has been instructed by the government not to stamp passports with these postmarks.
Barentsburg Post Office
The post office in Barentsburg, which is operated by Norwegian Post, is a great place for souvenir shopping.
Located on the main street in Barentsburg, the local post office in this Russian town is operated by Norwegian Post since Svalbard is a territory of Norway.
The post office sells a variety of souvenirs.
Costs
Spectacular day trips on the world’s northernmost fjord are the main activity for most tourists on Svalbard.
Horrendous!
Svalbard is not a destination for anyone on a budget.
For most people, Svalbard will be a one-time travel experience. It’s best to come with enough funds to enjoy the many amazing experiences which await in this unique Arctic playground and not to be too focused on just how much everything is costing you!
Due to the high travel costs, it’s best to bite the budget bullet, do what you wish to do, then leave before your travel budget disappears entirely.
Svalbard would be a miserable travel experience for anyone pinching their pennies!
An example of typical daily costs:
Hotel room at Radisson BLU Polar hotel (includes breakfast): €230
Full day trip to Pyramiden with Henningsen Transport & Guiding (includes lunch): €184
Dinner at Stationen Restaurant (Steak meal with one local beer): €42
Total for one day = €456
Suggested daily budgets:
Budget: Not possible!
Mid-range: NOK 4,000 – 4,648 (€380 – 450)
Top-end: NOK4,648+ (€450+)
The ‘Circle K’ petrol station in Longyearbyen is the world’s northernmost petrol station, where a litre of fuel costs NOK14.70 (€1.42).
Sample costs:
Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): NOK35 (€3.38)
Water (0.5 litre bottle): NOK24 (€2.33)
Svalbardi Polar Iceberg Water (750ml bottle): NOK982 (€94.95) ** Possibly the most expensive bottle of water in the world! **
The main street of Longyearbyen is home to a selection of boutiques which sell a range of Arctic merchandise.
While other costs are high on Svalbard, shopping can be a bargain! Svalbard is a duty-free zone so lower tax-free prices apply for everything you buy.
Funky local artwork for sale in Longyearbyen.
You will find bargain prices on outdoor clothing and equipment at Longyearbyen’s sporting goods stores, while the price of alcohol and tobacco are considerably lower than on the Norwegian mainland.
Located on the main pedestrian mall in Longyearbyen, the Coop supermarket is a great place to find bargain souvenirs.
If you are interested in purchasing souvenirs, the local supermarket, Coop, has a great range of items at very reasonable rates. This is also the only supermarket in town!
Items for sale in the gift shop at Pyramiden.
Shopping opportunities exist in Longyearbyen and in the Russian towns of Barentsburg and Pyramiden, where you’ll find at least one or two shops selling souvenirs.
Svalbard Wildlife
Introducing a gallery of Svalbard wildlife!
Unfortunately, the elusive polar bear proved to be too elusive during my stay on Svalbard, and so sadly, was never photographed by me!
Click on images for the full gallery-view.
Arctic Cruises
Cruise ships in Longyearbyen harbour.
Most visitors to Svalbard are cruise ship passengers who overnight in Longyearbyen before and after an Arctic cruise. The cruising season runs from late-April through late-September.
During the 2019 summer season, ~300 cruise ships visited Svalbard, carrying around 20,000 tourists.
Being the only settlement with services in this part of the world, Longyearbyen is a hub for all cruise ship companies. Most passengers arrive in town on special charter flights, which saves the (limited) regularly scheduled flights from being inundated!
A cruise ship is dwarfed by the towering mountains of Svalbard.
The summer cruise season of 2022 was the first time that Svalbard had been open since the summer of 2019, due to the Covid-19 pandemic.
Rather than cancelling cruises in 2020 and 2021, and refunding money back to passengers – which would have resulted in companies becoming bankrupt – the cruise ship companies rescheduled everyone for the 2022 season.
This meant that three years’ worth of passengers were being pushed through the system in one year! This resulted in a huge amount of congestion in tiny Longyearbyen, where, on one day, 8 cruise ships were in port, which overwhelmed the town of 2,400 inhabitants.
With a passenger capacity of 2,500, TUI Cruises’ “MV Mein Schiff” doubled the population of Longyearbyen during its one-day stopover.
On another day, TUI cruises arrived in town, with their mega-ship, ‘MV Mein Schiff 4’ whose passenger capacity matched the population of Longyearbyen, resulting in a doubling of the town’s population.
Having been closed for 3 years, local tour operators, and businesses, were happy to have the cruise ship passengers back in town – even if town was crowded!
A typical 10-day Arctic cruise costs around US$10,000. You can view a selection of cruises on the Swoop Arctic website.
Sightseeing
Tip: For a full list of activities on Svalbard, you should refer to the Things To Do page on the Visit Svalbard website.
You can also make bookings directly from this page.
Longyearbyen
The main town on Svalbard, Longyearbyen (population: 2,368) has the distinction of being the world’s northernmost town, located at 78˚ North – 1,316 km (817 mi) south of the North Pole, and well above the Arctic circle, which is located at 66°30′ North.
While there are two museums and a few other sights in town, Longyearbyen mainly serves as a base for full-day boat trips, exploring the many spectacular sights which are located along the shores of the fjords.
Svalbard Museum
The engaging Svalbard Museum displays artefacts from the history of Svalbard since its settlement along with fauna and flora displays.
A good first stop for any new arrival in town, the Svalbard Museum includes displays on the local fauna and flora of the archipelago, including an impressive (stuffed) polar bear.
Apart from being a natural history museum, Svalbard Museum is a cultural museum and includes displays which tell the story of settlement on the archipelago.
At the time of my visit, there was a special exhibition on permafrost – which affects much in this part of the world.
North Pole Expedition Museum
The North Pole Expedition Museum tells the story of early attempts to reach the North Pole.
Located directly behind the Svalbard Museum, the North Pole Expedition Museum tells the story of man’s early attempts to reach the North Pole, especially using airships and other types of aerial craft.
Displays inside the North Pole Expedition Museum, one of two museums in Longyearbyen.
The museum displays, which cover two floors, includes relics from expedition ships and air ships, old newspapers, maps and more.
Svalbard Church
Svalbard church was receiving a new roof at the time of my visit.
Located in an area of town which was the sight of the original settlement, the very cute Svalbard Kirke (church) is a warm and inviting place whose door is always open.
On the subject of open doors – it is standard practice on Svalbard that all doors to buildings remain unlocked, in case it is necessary for someone to hide from a wandering polar bear.
The altar inside Svalbard church.
The red, wooden church was built in 1958 using plans drawn up by the architect Hans Magnus. The church seats about 140 people and includes a stuffed polar bear (of course!)
Like everything else on Svalbard, the church has the distinction of being the northernmost church in the world and is one of two churches on Svalbard, with the other being a Russian Orthodox chapel in Barentsburg.
Svalbard Global Seed Vault
The Svalbard Global Seed Vault is also known as the Doomsday Vault.
Located outside of Longyearbyen, high on a mountain, overlooking the airport, the Svalbard Global Seed Vault is essentially a huge safety-deposit box for seeds.
Like something from a James Bond film, the entrance of this remote facility is a rectangular wedge of concrete which juts out from the side of a mountain.
The door to the vault is always closed and visitors are not allowed, lest someone introduces any sort of bacteria which would contaminate the valuable seed collection.
Beyond the entrance, a 150-metre-long passage leads to 3 chambers, with just one chamber currently used to house seeds.
Alone in isolation at the top of the world – the Svalbard Global Seed Vault is essentially a huge safety-deposit box for seeds.
The Global Seed Vault, which has been dubbed the “doomsday” vault, stores seeds from around the world – seeds which account for more than 930,000 varieties of food crops.
In 2008, Time Magazine named the Global Seed Vault as one of the ‘best inventions of 2008‘.
Husky Kennels
Common Eider ducks nesting alongside the noisy Husky kennels.
Located a short walk outside of town, the very noisy husky dog kennels are used to house these working dogs which are vitally important for sledding activities during the long, cold winters.
A female Common Eider duck, sitting on her comfortable nest which is made from Eider-down feathers!
All of the noisy racket from the constant barking and howling of the dogs, makes this a fox-free zone, which in turn makes this an ideal nesting site for the Common Eider duck.
A female (foreground) and male pair of Common Eider ducks in Longyearbyen.
The Arctic fox is one of the main predators of the ducks, which are most vulnerable while they are nesting. A large duck, the common eider duck is usually easily recognized by its size, the black belly and the white back of the male.
Previously, the excellent insulating down was collected from the nests of eider ducks for clothing or blankets.
Walrus Safari Daytrip
One of the best-known walrus colonies close to Longyearbyen is on Poolepynten on Prince Karl’s Fordland.
One of the highlights of my trip to Svalbard was being able to get up close to a colony of sunbathing walruses.
The walrus colony at Poolepynten on Prince Karl’s Fordland is located 87 km northwest of Longyearbyen, a 3-hour ride by speedboat.
During the winter months, walruses spend their time on sea ice. During summer, when the sea ice melts, walruses congregate on beaches such as at Poolepynten on Prince Karl’s Fordland, which is 87 km northwest of Longyearbyen.
Found only in the Arctic, there are two species of walrus – the Pacific and Atlantic walrus, with the Atlantic walrus found on Svalbard.
Both males and females grow tusks which they use to haul themselves out of the water and onto the sea ice. Their tusks are also used for keeping breathing holes open in the ice, fighting with other walruses, and for defence against predators.
Walruses use their sensitive whiskers for feeling out mussels and other sea creatures in the dark, Arctic waters.
Due to its great size and tusks, the walrus has only two natural predators: the orca and the polar bear.
Despite having no trees, the beaches of Svalbard, such as Poolepynten, are littered with ancient logs which have been carried to the Archipelago on ocean currents.
The walrus does not, however, comprise a significant component of either of these predators’ diets. Polar bears are more partial to seals!
Our Walrus Safari guide, with his loaded rifle, always on the lookout for polar bears.
I travelled on a Walrus Safari with Better Moments who charge NOK2,390 (€231) for the 7-hour trip. This included a lunch, which was a ham sandwich!
A ‘wet landing’ by dinghy at the very remote Poolepynten beach, with our speed boat in the background.
The safari involved a 6-hour return speedboat trip and one hour on the beach. As there is a risk of polar bear attack, our guide was required to carry a loaded rifle.
The scenery on Prince Karl’s Fordland.
Barentsburg & Esmark Glacier Daytrip
Travel Tip
For anything related to tourism in the Russian towns of Barentsburg and Pyramiden, you should consult with Grumant Arctic Travel Company.
Disclosure: At a time when Russia is waging an illegal invasion of Ukraine, it is incumbent upon me to disclose that the Grumant Arctic Travel company is a division of the Arktikugol (Arctic Coal) mining company, which is owned by the Russian government.
Trips to Barentsburg and Pyramiden from Longyearbyen use Norwegian companies.
A daytrip to Barentsburg always includes a stop at the impressive Esmark glacier which lies on the opposite side of the fjord from the Russian mining town.
Daytrips to Barentsburg include a stop at the Esmark glacier.
I travelled on a daytrip with Polar Charter aboard the MV Polar Girl who charge NOK1,950 (€188) for the 10-hour trip. This included a bowl of soup for lunch and a guided tour of Barentsburg.
The ‘MV Polar Girl’ offers day-trips to Barentsburg and Pyramiden.
Esmark Glacier
Two zodiac boats are dwarfed by the front of the Esmark glacier, which is 15 km wide.
The first of two stops on the daytrip was at the impressive Esmark glacier which calves into Ymerbukta bay, on the northern side of Isfjorden.
Two zodiac boats provide a sense of scale for the huge Esmark glacier, one of hundreds of glaciers on the archipelago.
The last remains of winter fast ice in front of the glacier were slowly melting.
Our boat, breaking through the last of the winter “fast ice”, the preferred habitats for seals, on approach to the huge Esmark glacier.
As we approached the glacier, our boat broke through the last of the fragile winter “fast ice”.
Fast ice is the preferred habitat for seals who escape the threat of polar bears by resting on the ice rather than on land.
Polar bear tracks, on the fast ice, in front of the Esmark glacier.
As a magnet for seals, the fast ice is also the preferred hunting ground for polar bears, whose favourite meal is seal. While we saw polar bear tracks on the ice, the tracks were not fresh and we saw no sign of polar bears.
View from the MS Polar Girl as we cross the Isfjorden en-route to Barentsburg.
Barentsburg
A bust of Lenin looks out over Barentsburg.
Located 60 km west of Longyearbyen, in Grønfjorden (Green Fjord), a small fjord to the west of the larger Isfjorden, the quirky Russian mining town of Barentsburg is home to a population of 455 souls who are both Russians and Ukrainians.
Traditional wooden buildings in Barentsburg.
Barentsburg was first established by a Dutch company in 1920, who named the settlement in honour of the famous Dutch explorer Willem Barentsz.
The one school building in Barentsburg features artwork which adds a splash of colour to this Arctic mining town.
In 1932, Barentsburg was sold to the Soviet state-owned company Arktikugol, and ever since the fall of the Soviet Union the community has been maintained by the Russian state-owned company Trust Arktikugol.
Apart from running the mining operation, the company owns the Grumant Arctic Travel Company.If you wish to stay overnight in Barentsburg, the travel company operates one hotel and one hostel (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below for more details).
Artwork adorns the side of the abandoned workers’ cafeteria building in Barentsburg.
The currency in use in Barentsburg is the Norwegian krone (NOK) with credit cards accepted by most businesses.
The port authority building in Barentsburg.
During WWII, the Germans destroyed almost all buildings in Barentsburg which makes the current town relatively new.
Sleepy Barentsburg is a living museum of a Soviet-era mining town, complete with many fine Pomor-style wooden buildings.
Barentsburg is a living museum, full of relics from its Soviet past, including many fine Pomor-style wooden houses.
During our visit we had a one-hour guided tour around town, then time to ourselves to explore.
The logo of the Arktikugol company which operates the town of Barentsburg.
The town has its own coal-powered power plant, hospital, hotel, hostel, brewery, two bars, school, kindergarten, cultural and sports-facilities, one supermarket and one Lenin bust.
The former Soviet consulate was built in the classic Stalinist style while the new Russian consulate looms in the background.
Although this is a Russian mining town, Svalbard is a territory of Norway and, as such, the Russian government is represented in Barentsburg through a consulate.
The former consulate, which was built during the Soviet era in the classic Stalinist style, is now a museum while a modern Russian consulate, built directly behind the former consulate, overlooks the whole of the settlement from its hilltop position.
One of four apartment buildings in Barentsburg.
Compared to Longyearbyen, Barentsburg is very quiet and sleepy. There are few cars, few businesses, few shops and a general lack of buzz and activity. It’s all very quiet!
A Soviet-era sign outside a modern apartment building in Barentsburg proclaims “Communism is our goal”.
I saw very few people walking around the few streets which comprise the downtown area. It’s in complete contrast to the more bustling Longyearbyen!
The Russian orthodox chapel in Barentsburg is the world’s northernmost Orthodox chapel.
One sight worth visiting is the wooden Russian Orthodox chapel, the world’s northernmost Orthodox chapel.
The interior of the Russian Orthodox chapel in Barentsburg.
It was erected in honour the victims of an air disaster which occurred in 1996 when a Tupolev plane carrying 141 miners from the Arktikugol company, crashed into a mountain on approach to Longyearbyen airport. It was this event which led to the closure of Pyramiden.
Grumant
Abandoned buildings in the Russian settlement of Grumant.
Located on the southern shore Isfjorden, the Russian mining town of Grumant was first established in 1912 and then abandoned in 1965.
At its peak, it was home to 1,106 coal miners. Due to a lack of port facilities, coal had to be transported to nearby Coles Bay via a rail line. It all proved too difficult and costly and the settlement was eventually abandoned in 1965.
Abandoned buildings at the former Russian mining settlement of Grumant.
Pyramiden & Nordenskiöld Glacier Daytrip
The abandoned Russian mining town of Pyramiden lies 50 km north of Longyearbyen.
A highlight of Svalbard, Pyramiden is an abandoned Soviet coal mining settlement, which is located at the foot of the Billefjorden, near to the massive Nordenskiöld Glacier.
Minerals colour the soil of a mountain slope on the Billefjorden.
Several companies run daily trips from Longyearbyen which include scenic views of the Billefjorden, a trip to the Nordenskiöld Glacier and a guided tour of Pyramiden.
I chose to travel with Henningsen Transport & Guiding (HTG) who offer the 11-hour trip for NOK1,900 (€184), which includes a BBQ lunch, prepared by the excellent and friendly Filipino crew.
The dramatic coastline of the Billefjorden, as seen from the deck of the “MV Billefjorden”.
I was glad I chose HTG as our informative, enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide, Anna Lena Ekeblad,a Swedish expat who has lived in Svalbard since the mid-1990’s (making her one of the longest residents of Longyearbyen), shared her deep knowledge of the Arctic.
Was it any wonder that Willem Barentsz first named Svalbard “Spitsbergen”?
We were served one antidote after another and, without a doubt, the trip with HTG was the best of all the trips I made while in Longyearbyen. Highly recommended, especially if Anna Lena is your guide!
Billefjorden
The shore of the Billefjorden is lined with towering peaks which stand sentinel over the coastline.
Our boat, the “MV Billefjorden” carried us north for 50 km from Longyearbyen to Pyramiden, along the spectacular Billefjorden, the world’s northernmost fjord.
Typical view of the shoreline of the Billefjorden.
Billefjorden is the central fjord of the three branching from the innermost part of the Isfjorden. It is 30 km long and 5–8 km wide and is lined with spectacular cliffs, glaciers and mountain peaks which are breeding grounds for large colonies of Arctic sea birds.
Nordenskiöld Glacier
Approaching the Nordenskiöld Glacier, the first time in the season that a boat could approach the glacier.
One of more than 100 glaciers on Svalbard, the massive Nordenskiöldbreen (Nordenskiöld Glacier) is 25 km (16 mi) long and 11 km (6.8 mi) wide. It calves into Adolfsbukta, a branch of Billefjorden.
Unfortunately, there is nothing in this image to provide scale to the immense size of the Nordenskiöld Glacier.
At certain times of the year, sea ice prevents boats from reaching the face of this huge glacier. We were the first boat trip which was able to reach the glacier – that was in June.
A pair of Bearded seals, resting on sea ice at Nordenskiöld Glacier.
While there were no polar bears present, there were a few bearded seals resting on blocks of sea ice. The seals wait for larger blocks of ice to calve off the glacier then take up residence on them, while always keeping an eye out for their number one predator – the polar bear.
A hole in the ice, roughly in the shape of a heart, makes the Nordenskiöld Glacier the ‘heart of the Arctic’.
One feature of the glacier is a hole in the ice which is shaped roughly like a heart – making this glacier the ‘heart of the Arctic’.
Pyramiden
A bust of Lenin looks out over Pyramiden.
Located across the bay from the massive Nordenskiöld Glacier, the abandoned Russian coal mining town of Pyramiden looms large on the horizon.
The abandoned Russian coal mining town of Pyramiden is today a popular tourist attraction.
As you approach, you can clearly make out the many buildings, crane derricks at the port, mining infrastructure and a strange contraption which ramps its way up the steep mountain slope behind the town.
A covered gallery, which once housed a cable car, carried miners to the mine entrance, located below the mountain summit.
Everything is here, except for the residents!
An old tractor at Pyramiden.
Founded by Sweden in 1910 and sold to the Soviet Union in 1927, Pyramiden is named for the two pyramid-shaped mountains which form the backdrop of the town.
This large shed was used to keep livestock which was used to provide fresh meat, poultry and milk for the town.
During the 1980s the town had a population in excess of 1000 people. A large livestock shed was used as a ‘farm’ to provide fresh meat, poultry, eggs and milk for the town – something unique in this part of the world where all produce is imported.
A bust of Lenin in Pyramiden – the world’s northernmost Lenin monument!
Dwindling coal prices, difficulties with coal extraction from the mountain, and the catastrophic Russian plane crash which claimed the lives of 141 workers all contributed towards the discontinuation of the mining operations.
The first stop on a walking tour of Pyramiden is the memorial stele near the edge of town.
The last ton of coal was extracted in 1998 and is now displayed in a coal wagon which is at the base of the memorial stele.
Soviet emblems on the wall of the cultural hall.
In 1998, the town was then abandoned – frozen in time in this frozen land!
Notices on the community notice board inside the cultural centre at Pyramiden.
Everything remains in place, including notices on the community notice board, in what has become a time capsule of Soviet Arctic life from last century.
Wedding announcement on the community noticeboard in Pyramiden.
Pyramiden is a fascinating tourist attraction and should not be missed!
Soviet-era apartment buildings in Pyramiden.
Prior to the pandemic, I was fortunate enough to visit the abandoned Soviet city of Pripyat in the Chernobyl exclusion zone.
There are many parallels between Pyramiden and Pripyat, including the fact that they were both built as model Soviet towns and now lie abandoned, frozen in time.
A view of the auditorium, a part of the cultural centre in Pyramiden.
Since 2007, there has been a concerted effort to make Pyramiden a tourist attraction, this included a renovation of the town’s one hotel, Hotel Pyramiden, in 2014.
The last ton of coal extracted at Pyramiden is on display at the town entrance.
During the winter months, when sea ice blocks access to the town, there are a staff of 10 caretakers in town.
The swimming hall at Pyramiden features many beautiful design elements.
During the summer tourist season, there are a team of 20 staff who run the hotel, the one shop, the one cafe/ bar and provide tour guiding services.
Our Russian guide, who was required to carry a loaded rifle as protection against polar bears.
Due to the presence of polar bears in the area, guides carry loaded rifles and you must not wander off!
As a model city, Pyramiden was blessed with many facilities which otherwise wouldn’t have existed in a such a remote, tiny town. Everything was built featuring Soviet architecture, which bears witness to a past heyday which has now past.
Pyramiden provides a fascinating window into life in a Soviet-era Arctic town.
The kitchen, at what was once the 24-hour staff cafeteria in Pyramiden.
The main avenue, which is overlooked by a bust of Lenin (of course!), is lined with many impressive buildings, including the staff cafeteria.
The beautiful ‘Polar’ mosaic which is the centrepiece of the staff cafeteria at Pyramiden.
The cafeteria is accessed via a twin staircase, above which is a large, and once beautiful, mosaic of an arctic landscape.
The abandoned staff cafeteria at Pyramiden.
In Pyramiden’s heyday, up to 1000 people used to eat in the cafeteria, which was open 24 hours per day! Today it’s large, empty and silent!
The world’s northernmost swimming pool – the swimming hall in Pyramiden.
Also on the avenue is a swimming hall, featuring lots of fancy wooden panels and an ornate wooden ceiling. All wood on treeless Svalbard has to be imported!
Entrance to the swimming hall in Pyramiden.
The crowning glory of the town was the sports and cultural centre which is located at the top of the avenue.
The entrance to the cultural centre in Pyramiden.
This large building featured an auditorium with rows of comfortable red seats, sports hall, library, music rooms and even a ballet studio. Not bad for a remote Arctic town.
The auditorium in the cultural centre in Pyramiden.
The sport hall inside the cultural centre at Pyramiden.
Music room in the cultural centre at Pyramiden.
A sound-proof music studio in the cultural centre at Pyramiden.
Ballet studio in the cultural centre at Pyramiden.
A bust of Lenin in storage at the cultural centre in Pyramiden.
While the human residents have left, thousands of new residences have moved in!
Seagulls nesting on the window ledges of an abandoned apartment block in the former Russian mining town of Pyramiden.
As is the want of mother nature, Seagulls have established nests on the window ledges of the abandoned apartment buildings.
Seagulls nesting on the window ledges of an abandoned apartment block in the former Russian mining town of Pyramiden.
For the seagulls, these buildings are just another sea cliff with lots of convenient nooks for nests.
Accommodation
One of my rooms at the Radisson Blu hotel, the best accommodation option in Svalbard.
Tip: For a complete listing of all accommodation options on Svalbard, please refer to the “Where To Stay” page on the Visit Svalbard website.
There are currently a total of 6 hotels, 1 apartment complex, 4 guest houses and 1 camping ground available in Longyearbyen. I’ve included details for the main properties below with current (Summer 2022) room rates.
Capacity Constraints
Booking accommodation in Longyearbyen can be tricky, especially during the busy summer cruise ship season.
Hotel beds are limited and, during my stay, the town was completely booked out on more than one occasion, due to an influx of cruise ship passengers.
While many passengers arrive and depart on special charter flights, some choose to extend their stay in the Arctic by checking into hotels in Longyearbyen.
While staying at the 128-room Radisson BLU Polar hotel – the largest hotel in town – a group of 100 cruise ship passengers checked in, waiting to join their ship the following day. This one group filled most of the hotel!
While there are capacity issues, I was told by local tourism operators that there are no plans to add additional rooms by building more hotels and that there is no desire from local authorities to encourage mass tourism to what is a special, and fragile, part of the planet.
The best option is to first check hotel availability prior to booking flights, lest you end up sleeping outside with the polar bears!
Accommodation Costs
As with all other travel costs on the archipelago, accommodation costs on Svalbard are high!
The high costs are completely understandable when you consider market conditions – a remote town, removed from the rest of the world, with limited room capacity and huge (summer time) demand.
Housing in Longyearbyen is limited with most properties owned by companies who use them to house their workers.
Normally, in such a tight market, you could look at alternative accommodation options such as Airbnb. However, you will find nothing listed on that website, due to the fact that there is an apartment shortage in Longyearbyen. Most properties are privately owned by companies who use them to house their staff.
As an example of hotel costs, a ‘standard twin’ room at the Coal Miners’ Cabins, one of the few budget options in Longyearbyen, currently costs NOK1,445 (€138) per night, while an ‘economy twin’ room costs NOK1,245 (€119) per night.
The hotel offers 73, spartanly furnished rooms, with almost all rooms using shared bathrooms / toilets, which are located at the end of the corridor.
It’s hostel facilities at hotel prices!
If you wish to have a private bathroom, you will need to book one of their 3 ‘family’ rooms, which sleeps up to 4 people, and costs NOK4,295 (€413) per night.
Longyearbyen Accommodation
Longyearbyen is the main town on Svalbard, offering the only real selection of services such as shops, accommodation, restaurants, transport etc. All hotels include a buffet breakfast in their rates.
Radisson Blu Polar Hotel Spitsbergen
Another of my rooms at the Radisson BLU hotel, my favourite accommodation in Svalbard.
Offering 128 very comfortable and well-appointed rooms, this is the hotel of choice for cruise ship companies looking to accommodate large groups of passengers. Finding a room can be tricky if there are boats in town!
Apart from their comfortable rooms, the hotel offers a fine dining restaurant and the world’s northernmost pub (refer to the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more details).
Current published room rates are:
Standard Twin/ Double: NOK2,395 (€230)
Junior Suite: NOK2,845 (€274)
Suite: NOK3,595 (€346)
Funken Lodge
Another property by the Hurtigruten group, Funken Lodge offers 88 rooms in what was formerly the accommodation quarters for single employees of the trading company Store Norske.
My ‘Standard Single’ room at The Vault hotel, which cost the princely sum of NOK 2,555 (€246) per night.
Another property by Svalbard Adventures, Svalbard Hotel | The Vault is named after the Global Seed Vault and includes a world map in the lobby, indicating locations from which seed donations have been made to the vault.
The hotel offers 35 rooms in total, with 33 double rooms and 2 single rooms. The cost difference between the two room types is just NOK100 (€10) so, even for a single traveller, it’s worth paying the extra for a larger room with a larger bed.
Unfortunately, I had no choice but to accept a single room as the hotel was fully booked. My room was very pokey, being not much larger than the single bed.
Current published room rates are:
Single: NOK2,550 (€246)
Double: NOK2,650 (€256)
Svalbard Hotell | Lodge
Also, by Svalbard Adventures, Svalbard Hotell | Lodge offers 10 apartments in the heart of town, with each apartment accommodating either 4 or 6 guests.
Current published room rates are:
4-guest Lodge: NOK3,750 (€362)
6-guest Lodge: NOK3,750 (€362)
Mary-Ann’s Polarrigg
A project of love by owner Mary-Ann Dahle, the very eclectic Mary-Ann’s Polarrigg is housed in a former miner’s barracks. This quirky establishment, which has been furnished with relics from former coal mines, includes 17 single, 19 double and four family rooms.
Current published room rates are:
Single: NOK1,195 (€116)
Double: NOK2,295 (€223)
Family Rooms: NOK3,295 (€319)
Basecamp Hotel
If ever you wished to experience the life of a wildlife trapper living in the wilderness, a rustic room at the Basecamp Hotel could be for you.
Modelled on a typical trapper’s hut, complete with modern conveniences and a pub next door, the Basecamp Hotel offers 16 rooms in the heart of Longyearbyen.
Current published room rates are:
Single: NOK1,390 (€135)
Twin: NOK2,090 (€203)
Triple: NOK2,390 (€232)
Suite: NOK2,990 (€290)
Nybyen Guesthouses
Located 2 km inland from Longyearbyen, at the end of the glacial valley, the small settlement of Nybyen (New Town), was originally established to house the coal miners from mine 2A.
The former accommodation cabins are today home to the two cheapest guest houses in town. Both properties offer basic rooms, with shared bathrooms and toilets at the end of the corridor!
Coal Miners’ Cabins
The budget offering by the Hurtigruten group, Coal Miners’ Cabins charges hotel rates for hostel facilities! This is one of the more affordable options in town, although it’s located 2 km outside of town at the end of the glacial valley.
This guesthouse offers 76 rooms, with almost all rooms using shared bathrooms. The only rooms with private bathrooms are a couple of “Family” rooms.
I spent 4 nights in a spartanly furnished “Economy Twin” room, using a (busy) shared bathroom and toilet at the end of the corridor.
Standard Twin (2 persons – shared bathroom): NOK1,645 (€159)
Large Twin with sink (2 persons – shared bathroom): NOK1,745 (€169)
Family Room (4 persons – private bathroom): NOK4,295 (€415)
Gjestehuset 102
Across the road from Coal Miners’ Cabins, this guesthouse was originally built to house miners from coal mine #2A and was formerly known as the “millionaires’ mansion”, being home to the best and most experienced miners.
Gjestehuset 102 has 61 beds (7 singles, 19 doubles and 4 four-person dorms).
Current published room rates are:
Bed in mixed 4-person dormitory (shared bathroom): NOK500 (€48)
Standard Double (2 persons – shared bathroom): NOK1,330 (€129)
Standard Single (1 person – shared bathroom): NOK930 (€90)
Barentsburg Accommodation
Barentsburg Hotel
The Barentsburg Hotel is the one hotel in town. If you do stay overnight, you might be the only guest!
The main game in sleepy Barentsburg, the Barentsburg Hotel offers 46 rooms, including 5 suites and 41 standard twin rooms, with a total of 92 beds.
Current published room rates are:
Single: NOK1550 (€149)
Double: NOK1900 (€183)
Suite: NOK2100 (€202)
Pomor Hostel
The Pomor hostel is the only other accommodation option in Barentsburg.
Located next door to the Barentsburg Hotel, the Pomor Hostel is the cheapest option in town. Offering 30 double and triple rooms (all with shared bathroom), with a total of 72 beds.
Current published room rates are:
Twin: NOK1,000 (€96)
Triple: NOK1,200 (€115)
Breakfast costs an additional NOK200 (€19,20)!
Pyramiden Accommodation
Hotel Pyramiden
The only accommodation option in this fascinating former Russian mining town, Hotel Pyramiden offers 43 rooms, including 38 standard rooms and 5 suites.
It’s important to note that there is no WiFi or mobile phone signal anywhere in Pyramiden. If you wish to drop off the grid, this is the place for you! Best to bring a good book!
Current published room rates are:
Single: NOK2000 (€192)
Double: NOK2500 (€240)
Suite: NOK3000 (€288)
Eating Out
For a small, remote settlement at the top of the world, Longyearbyen offers a superb range of dining options, which are on par with anything you’d find on the mainland.
Being a compact town, everything in Longyearbyen is a 5-minute walk, with this town of 2,500 souls boasting 6 restaurants, 2 cafés and 5 bars.
Tip: For a full list of dining options on Svalbard, you should refer to the Food & Drink page on the Visit Svalbard website.
Dining Costs
Most hotels in town include a buffet breakfast in their nightly rate.
For lunch, the place of choice for most locals and tourists is Fruene café, which is one of two cafes in town, and the only cafe serving food. A typical lunch, with a coffee, costs between NOK150 – NOK200 (€14.75 – €20).
For dinner, a main course of either steak, fish or local reindeer will cost around NOK350 (€35), with a glass of local beer costing up to NOK90 (€8.74) for a pint.
Restaurants
Restaurant Nansen
Located inside the Radisson BLU Hotel, Restaurant Nansen is one of several food and beverage options in town from the Hurtigruten group. This is the place to dine if you are curious to try Arctic ingredients combined with Asian flavours.
For those staying at the Radisson BLU, the daily breakfast buffet, the best in town, is served in the restaurant.
Stationen
Restaurant Stationen offers a selection of international and Norwegian cuisine.
Stationen, whose name is inspired from the many whaling stations which once existed on Svalbard, offers a selection of international and Norwegian cuisine which is served in what used to be the former miner’s cafe – cafè Busen.
Another cosy establishment, restaurant Stationen serves generous, flavoursome meals portions, along with Svalbard brewery beers.
Kroa Restaurant
The cosy and inviting Kroa Restaurant, which is operated by Basecamp Spitsbergen, serves delicious sandwiches, soups, pizza, steaks, fish and more in a very warm and friendly, ‘log cabin-esque’ environment. If you are in need of a warm and cosy gastro-pub, Kroa is the place.
Open for lunch and dinner, sandwiches are priced on the menu at around NOK140 (€13.50) while a hamburger will set you back NOK180 (€17.30). At dinner, a steak or fish meal costs around NOK330 (€32).
Svalbar
The popular Svalbar offers very good hamburgers and pizzas which pair well with the local craft beers.
One of two restaurants owned by Svalbard Adventures, the busy and popularSvalbarserves up a menu of hamburgers and pizza – all of which are wonderfully tasty!
I can personally recommend their Blue Cheese burger which is priced at NOK175 (€17). Pizzas, which are cooked in a brick oven, cost on average NOK159 (€15.28).
Beers from the Svalbard brewery cost either NOK69/ €6.78 (.33L) or NOK89/ €8.74 (.5L).
Polfareren Restaurant
The 2nd offering from Svalbard Adventures is the delectable Polfareren Restaurant at the Svalbard Hotell. If you wish to try local Svalbard reindeer, this is the place to do it, with a reindeer main course priced at NOK375 (€37).
Cafés
Café Fruene
Of the two cafes in Longyearbyen, Café Fruene is the main game! Located on the main street, opposite the Coop supermarket, this large, popular cafe, which is the default lunch venue for locals and tourists, is especially busy whenever cruise ships are in town.
The powerhouse of this bustling operation is a team of efficient Filipinos who keep things moving.
Apart from serving delicious homemade soups, sandwiches, cakes, pastries and coffee, the cafe produces their own (very fine) chocolates – which makes them the world’s northernmost chocolaterie.
Café Huskies
The very inviting Café Huskies features a couple of friendly husky dogs.
Located on the main road, opposite the Radisson BLU hotel, the low-key Café Huskies is a cosy and inviting cafe and gift shop. The stars of the café are two friendly husky dogs who love being petted – when they’re not sleeping on the sofa!
While Café Fruene offers a much larger food selection, Café Huskies offer a few different Poke Bowls, sandwiches, coffee and a few sweet treats, including a delicious rhubarb cheesecake.
Tip: If you enjoy Thai food, the Thai shop, next door to Café Huskies, offers a few Thai takeaway options at lunch!
Bars
Svalbard offers 6 bars in Longyearbyen, 2 in Barentsburg and two breweries – one in Barentsburg and one in Longyearbyen.
Longyearbyen
Bars can be found inside the restaurants listed above – namely, Svalbar, Kroa and Stationen. In addition to those bars, there are the following establishments where you can quench your thirst.
Barentz Gastropub
Barentz Gastropub at the Radisson BLU Polar hotel – the world’s northernmost pub.
Located inside the Radisson BLU hotel, the world’s northernmost pub, Barentz Gastropub, is far from chilly. This warm and inviting space is one of the most popular bars in town, serving tasty food and a good selection of Svalbard Brewery beers.
Reindeer stew with a glass of Svalbard brewery beer at Barentz pub in Longyearbyen.
While the pizzas are very good, I especially recommend the local (Svalbard) reindeer stew which is sprinkled with pomegranate seeds and served with a side of mashed potato. Delicious!
Svalbard Bryggeri (Svalbard Brewery)
Beer taps, featuring the full range of beers, in the tasting room at Svalbard Brewery.
When in Longyearbyen, it’s impossible to miss the local brew, which is served in every bar and restaurant.
Located at the port, the world’s northernmost brewery, Svalbard Bryggeri(Svalbard Brewery), is the creation of a former coal miner, Robert Johansen, who, before he could start brewing, spent 6 years on a legal quest to change a law which had prohibited the production of alcohol on Svalbard since 1928!
The brewing room at the world’s northernmost brewery.
The fact that he succeeded is a testament to his passion for his brewing. This passion is evident in the smooth and distinct flavours of his five different craft beers: an IPA, a stout, a pale ale, a pilsner, and a Weiss-bier.
A glass of Svalbard beer is a great way to relax after a day of exploring.
When you brew beer in the Arctic, you have access to a special ingredient – pure glacier water! Sixteen percent of the water used to brew Svalbard Brewery’s beer comes from the nearby Bogerbreen glacier. It’s an ingredient which makes this beer truly unique!
Today, Svalbard Bryggeri supplies every bar and restaurant in Svalbard, exports to Norway and Europe, and runs Brewery tours for locals and tourists.
A very quaffable Stout beer, with 16% glacier water, from Svalbard brewery.
While in Longyearbyen, I personally sampled all of their beers and couldn’t determine my favourite, so I had to start the process all over again!
Karlsberger Pub
If you enjoy quaffing a fine whisky, the Karlsberger Pub is the place for you. Boasting over a thousand different types of whisky, this is the place to warm your soul on a frigid Arctic evening.
Barentsburg
Red Bear Bar & Brewery
The Red Bear brewery in Barentsburg was the first brewery established on Svalbard.
Up until 2014, a law existed on Svalbard which prohibited the production of any alcohol which was stronger than 2.5 degrees. It was in 2014 that Robert Johansen, of Svalbard Brewery, managed to have the law abolished.
Prior to 2014, the Red Bear Bar & Brewery in Barentsburg, which was opened in 2012 – making it the first of the two breweries on Svalbard – brewed a beer which was slightly less than 2.5 degrees.
The brewery at Red Bear Bar & Brewery in Barentsburg.
Today, thankfully, the brewery produces full strength craft beers, including a Pale Ale, India Pale Ale (IPA), Stout and an Imperial Stout, all of which can be sampled at their restaurant.
The restaurant menu includes main courses of hamburgers, fish and steak at around NOK250 (€25) each.
Icebreaker Bar Krasin
Located inside the Barentsburg hotel, the “Icebreaker Bar Krasin” offers a selection of drinks, including ‘Soviet Arctic cocktails’.
Named after the icebreaker “Krasin”, the Icebreaker Bar Krasin includes an interior design inspired by the saloons of old icebreakers. The specialities here include a range of ‘Soviet Arctic cocktails’ which have their origins in the Russian Arctic region.
Visa Requirements
In terms of immigration – Svalbard is unique – it is a true no-man’s land!
Although Svalbard is part of Norway, the Norwegian Immigration Act does not apply to the archipelago. As such, when you fly to and from mainland Norway, you will be stamped in and out of the Schengen zone. There are no immigration formalities on Svalbard.
Foreigners do not need a visa or work and residence permits from the Norwegian authorities to travel to Svalbard. Due to this, Svalbard is a popular place for workers from Asia, especially Thailand and the Philippines. All that is required to live on Svalbard is a paying job.
However, foreign citizens with a visa requirement for the Schengen Area must have a Schengen visa when travelling to and from Svalbard via mainland Norway. There is no other way to access the archipelago.
For those who require a Schengen visa, it’s important to ensure that you apply for a double-entry Schengen visa so you can return to the Schengen Area (mainland Norway) after your stay in Svalbard.
On my return flight to Oslo airport from Svalbard, most of the returning Filipinos didn’t have Schengen re-entry visas and were detained at immigration where they had to wait for a special transit visa to be issued.
Movement anywhere on Svalbard, including between Longyearbyen (Norwegian) and Barentsburg (Russian) requires no passport since the archipelago is owned by Norway.
Flights to Svalbard Airport are operated from Norway by Scandinavian Airlines and Norwegian Air Shuttle.
Air
The only airport on the archipelago, Svalbard Airport (IATA: LYR) has the distinction of being the northernmost airport in the world with scheduled public flights.
The terminal at Svalbard airport – the northernmost airport in the world with scheduled public flights.
The airport is located 5 km (3.1 mi) northwest of Longyearbyen on the west coast.
Scheduled Flights
The following airlines offer scheduled flights between Svalbard and Norway:
Roundtrip airfares from Oslo to Svalbard during the summer season typically cost around NOK7,000 (€678).
Charter Flights
During the summer cruise ship season, many of the cruise ship companies operate private charter flights to Svalbard, which avoids overwhelming the regularly scheduled flights, with hundreds of cruise ship passengers.
Airport Transport
The Longyearbyen airport shuttle bus operates between all hotels and the airport according to the flight schedule.
Taxis and buses meet each flight with a one-way bus ticket costing NOK 75 (€7.21) or a return ticket costing NOK 120 (€11.54). The bus, whose schedule corresponds to the flight schedule, connects all hotels in Longyearbyen with the airport.
A typical taxi fare is around NOK 180 (€17.30).
Although the airport is just 5 km west of town, walking between town and the airport isn’t allowed, unless you are equipped with polar bear protection – i.e. a rifle!
Getting Around
Road to nowhere! There are just 40 km of roads on Svalbard which are within the town limits of Longyearbyen and Barentsburg.
Road Network
The most popular vehicle on Svalbard is the snow mobile.
There are just 40 km of roads on Svalbard, most of which is in and around Longyearbyen. The only way to travel between Longyearbyen and Barentsburg is by boat. Snow mobiles are the most popular vehicle on Svalbard but are of no use in the drier summer season.
Polar Bear warning signs mark the town limit and should not be passed by anyone on foot unless they are carrying polar bear protection (i.e. a loaded rifle!)
Soviet-era motorbike in Pyramiden.
Public Transport
“Welcome” to Longyearbyen.
Longyearbyen
A daily tour of Longyearbyen is offered by the Svalbard bus company.
There is a modern bus fleet in Longyearbyen, which is operated by Svalbard Bus and Taxi.The buses provide airport shuttle services and transport services for visiting cruise ship passengers.
A view towards Longyearbyen, as seen from the bus tour, from the top of the mountain near coal mine #7.
One of the better value excursions on Svalbard is the daily bus tour (NOK385 / €38) of Longyearbyen which takes you out of town, to the Global Seed Vault and a panoramic viewpoint below the only working coal mine.
Barentsburg
This one antique Russian bus is the sole means of public transport in tiny Barentsburg.
There is one, very cute, antique Russian bus which drives around the two or three streets in downtown Barentsburg.
Taxi
Two taxi companies operate in Longyearbyen – Longyearbyen Taxi and Svalbard Bus and Taxi (Phone: +47 7902 1052).
A typical fare from downtown to the Coal Miners’ Cabins, which are located 2 km out of town, costs NOK 120 (€11.54), while a typical fare to the airport costs NOK 180 (€17.30).
Rental Car
A Svalbard car license plate.
There is one car rental company in Longyearbyen – Arctic Autorent, which can be contacted at:
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