Tag - Caribbean

U.S. Virgin Islands Travel Guide

8 years ago
Darren McLean
Frangipani blossoms on St. Johns.

U.S. Virgin Islands Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel USVI Travel Guide!

Date Visited: May 2015

Introduction

The territory of the United States Virgin Islands (USVI) consists of three large islands (St. John, St. Thomas and St. Croix) and fifty smaller islands and cays. Along with neighbouring British Virgin Islands, St. Thomas and St. John are part of the Virgin islands archipelago, with St. Croix lying 70-km to the south.

Location

The USVI is located in the Lesser Antilles of the Eastern Caribbean, a few kilometres west of the British Virgin islands and 65-km east of Puerto Rico.

A US territory, the USVI is comprised of three islands – St. Thomas and neighbouring St. John and the more distant St. Croix, which is located 72 km south of St. Thomas.

History

The original settlers on the USVI were the Arawak Indians who sailed up from present day Venezuela. The Arawak’s were a peaceful lot who developed intricate social and cultural lives. Their civilisation flourished for hundreds of years until the more aggressive Carib Indians arrived.

The Caribs were not as peace-loving as the Arawak, normally destroying everything they found. They also had a reputation for eating their victims and this is where the word ‘cannibal’ comes from.

A view across the Sir Francis Drake Channel from St. John (USVI) to Tortola (BVI).

A view across the Sir Francis Drake Channel from St. John (USVI) to Tortola (BVI).

However, not even the Caribs were a match for the Europeans. Christopher Columbus first landed on St. Croix after being blown off course during his second voyage to the Americas in 1493. He then continued his explorations, stopping at St. Thomas and St. John. He named the islands, Santa Cruz, San Juan and San Tomas. The collection of tiny islets and cays dotting the sea around them reminded Columbus of Saint Ursula and her 11,000 virgin martyrs, inspiring the name Las Once Mil Virgenes (the 11,000 Virgins). Columbus found the Caribs to be hostile so he left the islands without attempting to establish a settlement.

In the early 1600’s many countries coveted the Virgin islands. Holland, France, England, Spain, Denmark, even Malta sought colonies.

The Danish West India Company first attempted to settle St. Thomas in 1665. They successfully established a settlement on St. Thomas in 1672 and quickly set about establishing sugar and cotton plantations. Following early success, they expanded and settled on St. John in 1694. After the Danes settled St. John plantation agriculture developed rapidly.

The Danish West India Company purchased St. Croix from the French in 1733 bringing St. Thomas, St. Croix and St. John together as the Danish West Indies.

Like most other islands, large numbers of slaves were imported from Africa to work on the cotton and sugar plantations. Plantations covered all the islands. Following the abolition of slavery, the planters began to abandon their estates and the population and economy in the islands declined.

The islands remained under Danish rule until 1917, when the United States purchased them for $25 million in gold in an effort to improve military positioning during critical times of World War I.

St. Croix, St. Thomas and St. John became the US Virgin Islands.

Today the USVI is a U.S. territory, run by an elected governor. The territory is under the jurisdiction of the president of the United States of America and residents are American citizens.

Tourism is the number one revenue generator for the USVI and its islands are considered premiere destinations for tourists visiting the Caribbean.

Currency

US Dollar

The US Dollar.

Being a US territory, the official currency of the US Virgin Islands is the US dollar.

Flag

Flag of USVI.

Flag of USVI.

The flag of the United States Virgin Islands was adopted on May 17, 1921. It consists of a simplified version of the coat of arms of the U.S. which is set between the letters ‘V’ and ‘I’ (for ‘Virgin Islands’).

The yellow-coloured eagle holds a sprig of laurel in one talon, which symbolises victory, and three blue arrows in the other (unlike the thirteen arrows in the US coat of arms), which represent the three major islands that make up the U.S. Virgin Islands: Saint Croix, Saint Thomas, and Saint John.

Sightseeing

St. Thomas

With a population of 51,634 (about 49% of the USVI total), Saint Thomas is the main island of the USVI. Here you will find the busiest airport, largest cruise ship terminal and the territorial capital and largest city – Charlotte Amalie. 

Christopher Columbus was the first European to sight the island during his second voyage to the Americas in 1493. However, the Dutch were the first to settle the island in 1657 but they were expelled by the Danish following their conquest of the island 1666. The Danish West India Company divided the island into sugar plantations and imported vast numbers of African slaves as a labour pool.

In 1691, the primary settlement on the island was renamed Charlotte Amalie in honour of the wife of Denmark’s King Christian V. In 1917, St. Thomas was purchased (along with St. John and St. Croix) by the United States government for US$25 million in gold.

My 2 cents worth:

St. Thomas is much more developed and much busier than neighbouring St. John. If your time is limited I would allocate more time on St. John, a much more agreeable island with amazing beaches, nature, snorkeling and diving. 

Charlotte Amalie

A laneway in Charlotte Amalie.

A laneway in Charlotte Amalie.

The capital and largest city (population: 18,481) of the USVI, Charlotte Amalie is located on the southern shore of St. Thomas at the head of Saint Thomas Harbour.

The deep-water harbour was once a haven for pirates but is today the busiest port of call for cruise ships in the Caribbean, receiving more than 1.5 million passengers per year.

Not surprisingly most of the city is a large shopping mall catering to the needs of visiting day-trippers, who come to shop in the city dubbed “the duty-free capital of the world“.

Apart from it’s shops, the city is known for its Danish colonial architecture and Danish influence. The downtown area is compact and most sites can be visited on foot in less than a day. The following sites are located in Charlotte Amalie:

Fort Christian

U.S. Virgin Islands Travel Guide: Fort Christian, Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas.

Fort Christian, Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas.

Located on the harbour-front, this is the oldest standing structure in the Virgin Islands archipelago. Built between 1672-1680, early in the first successful colonial establishment on the island, the fort served as a critical point of defence and government during the entire period of Dano-Norwegian, and later Danish, administration, which ended in 1917 with the sale of the islands to the United States.

The fort currently holds the St. Thomas Museum, which houses artefacts and art of the Dano-Norwegian period.

St. Thomas Synagogue

U.S. Virgin Islands Travel Guide: St. Thomas Synagogue in Charlotte Amalie is famous for it's sand floor.

St. Thomas Synagogue in Charlotte Amalie is famous for it’s sand floor.

Located at Crystalgade #16AB, Saint Thomas Synagogue was built in 1833, and is the second-oldest synagogue on United States soil (after the 1763 Touro Synagogue in Newport, Rhode Island).

It also has the longest history of continuous use by a Jewish congregation in the United States. It was built for a congregation founded in 1796 by Sephardic Jews who had come to the Caribbean Basin to finance trade between Europe and the New World.

A beautiful, serene place of worship which is definitely worth a visit. One of the most unusual features of the synagogue is the sand floor. There are two theories behind this unusual occurrence. One is to represent the Israelite journey through the desert. Another theory is that it represents the Conversos who were forced to convert to Catholicism. Many continued to observe Judaism, so they usually met in their cellars and would use sand to muffle their prayers.

Government House

The historic Government house, Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas.

The historic Government house, Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas.

Constructed in 1867 as the meeting place for the Danish Colonial Council, Government House is used today as the office for the governor of the U.S. Virgin Islands.

Several works by Impressionist master Camille Pissarro, a native of St. Thomas, is one highlight of a visit. The building, open to the public on weekdays, is a five-minute walk from the centre of historic Charlotte Amalie at Kongensgade 21-22.

Frederick Lutheran Church

Established in 1666, this is the oldest Lutheran Church in the Western Hemisphere.

Blackbeard’s Castle

Built by the Danes during the 17th century as a military watch-tower. The tower was later renamed Blackbeard’s Castle possibly because Edward Teach (Blackbeard) used it as a lookout during his days of piracy.

Bluebeard’s Castle

Not to be confused with Blackbeard’s Castle, this watchtower was built by the Danes in 1689 and was apparently used by the pirate Bluebeard.

Camille Pissarro Gallery

Entrance to the Camille Pissarro Gallery in Charlotte Amalie.

Entrance to the Camille Pissarro Gallery in Charlotte Amalie.

Located on Main street, this small gallery is housed in the birth home of the famous impressionist painter.

Market Square
Once the venue for the biggest slave market auctions in the Caribbean, today the square serves as a local farmers market.

French Heritage Museum

Located in Frenchtown, the French Heritage Museum tells the story of French settlers who migrated to St. Thomas from St. Barthelemy. The museum is run by a group of enthusiastic volunteers who will happily guide you around the single room of displays.

Frenchtown

This small fishing community was established in the late 1800’s by French settlers from St. Barthelemy. Today the French community has preserved a high degree of cultural identity. You can visit French bakeries and you’ll hear French Creole being spoken on the streets. There is a good selection of bars, cafes and restaurants here – an ideal place for lunch.

Around St. Thomas

Like all other islands in the Virgin Islands archipelago, St. Thomas is volcanic in origin. As such it is largely mountainous, with many roads around the island offering terrific panoramic views in every direction. There are more than 40 beaches on the island, many of them with white powdery sand.

Red Hook

Red Hook is a town located on the east side of Saint Thomas, overlooking neighbouring St. John. The main reason to come here is to take one of the frequent ferries, which make the crossing to St. John or to the British Virgin Islands (see the ‘Getting Around‘ and the ‘Getting There‘ sections below for more details).

Apart from the ferry terminal, there is a marina, a dive shop, supermarket and a few restaurants and bars.

Coki Beach

Coki is a small, pretty beach located on Coki Point on the north coast of St. Thomas. The crystal clear water is usually very calm with a near shore reef offering great snorkeling. There is a dive shop here offering one-tank shore dives.

Magens Bay

Located on the north coast, this sweeping bay is St. Thomas’ most popular beach. It is the only beach on St. Thomas that has an entry fee; with the funds being used to maintain the facilities and the beach. The bay is very protected so the water is usually very calm with no waves or current.

Hull Bay

Just along from Magens Bay, Hull Bay is a tranquil little beach and, due to it’s more difficult access road, much quieter than neighbouring Magens Bay.

St. John

Located just 4-miles east of St. Thomas, the history of St John is very similar to the history of St. Thomas.

The British originally claimed St. John, especially in 1684 when Denmark tried to take possession of the island. Although they never settled the island, the British authorities on neighbouring Tortola considered St. John to be their possession.

On March 25th, 1718 a group of twenty Danish planters from St. Thomas raised their flag at the first permanent settlement in Coral Bay. The first settlers had already established sugar plantations on neighbouring St. Thomas and wanted to do the same on St. John. Within the first fifteen years of settlement, 109 cotton and sugar cane plantations were created and covered almost all of St. John.

View over Coral Bay, St. John

View over Coral Bay, St. John

African slaves were introduced to the island to work on the plantations. By 1733, the number of the slaves on the island hugely outnumbered free-men. This led to a revolt against plantation owners, which lasted seven months and left a quarter of the island’s population dead.

Slavery was abolished in 1848 at which point the plantations went into decline and the island’s population decreased by 50%. At around 1913, there were fewer than 1000 people living on the island.

In 1917 the United States purchased St. John from Denmark. Years later, news of this beautiful American island spread to the United States mainland, setting the seeds of what would become a tourism boom.

In 1956, Laurence Rockefeller donated 5000 acres of island real-estate to the Federal Government, allowing the government to establish the Virgin Islands National Park. Today the park covers 60% of the area of the island.

Today St. John is a thriving tourist destination, with pristine beaches, untouched reefs and forests. If you enjoy nature and the outdoors this is a little slice of heaven.

Cruz Bay

With a population of 2,743, Cruz Bay is the main town on St. John. It is also where ferries arrive from St. Thomas and the British Virgin Islands and is the main tourist centre with most of the island’s restaurants, hotels etc.

There are no tourist sites to see in town but it is a pleasant place to spend time strolling. The National Park Service has its headquarters near the waterfront, which includes an informative visitors centre with information on the Virgin Islands National Park.

Honeymoon Beach

Just around from Cruz Bay, Honeymoon Beach is another perfect white-sand beach and a great introduction to the beaches on the island.

Hawksnest Beach

Next beach along the coast from Honeymoon beach, the water here is normally calm and crystal-clear. There is good snorkeling just offshore.

Trunk Bay

Trunk Bay is a beautiful, long, white-sand beach and is one of the most popular beaches on the island. At one end of the beach is an island, which you can snorkel around. There’s also an underwater snorkeling trail with signs providing information on local marine biology.

Cinnamon Bay

Next-door to Trunk Bay, Cinnamon Bay offers excellent snorkeling with the chance to see sea turtles feeding on the grassy seafloor and sting rays cruising the sandy bottoms.

Maho Bay

This is a good beach for swimming and snorkeling. Like neighbouring Cinnamon Bay, the seafloor is full of sea grass so there’s a good chance to see sea turtles while snorkeling.

Annaberg Sugar Plantation

A ruined windmill at the Annaberg Sugar Plantation on St. John.

A ruined windmill at the Annaberg Sugar Plantation on St. John.

The Annaberg Sugar Plantation Ruins are the most intact plantation ruins in the Virgin Islands and keep the memory of the days of slavery alive. The U.S. National Parks service maintains the site and has prepared a self-guided tour of the ruins using signboards, which leads you through the slave quarters, village, windmill, rum still and dungeon.

Waterlemon Cay

Located a 30-minute along the bay from the Annaberg sugar plantation ruins, this beautiful little cay is a short swim offshore and offers good snorkeling with a tiny strip of sand that is just big enough to allow tired snorkelers to rest. The currents around the cay can be strong so caution is needed.

Hanson Bay Beach

Fantastic snorkeling in crystal-clear waters in this protected bay.

United States Virgin Islands Travel Guide: The elusive White-tailed deer on St. John.

The elusive White-tailed deer on St. John.

Accommodation

There are many accommodation options available on both St. John and St. Thomas. Best to book in advance using booking.com

Eating Out

This is an American territory so there is no shortage of places offering generous portions of North American dishes with tropical twists as well as local cuisine.

St. John

On St. John there is a good selection of restaurants in Cruz Bay. This is my favourite place in the USVI for wining and dining.

I especially recommend The Longboard. Located on Prince street, the cocktails here are legendary – a frozen ‘Painkiller‘ is a great way to start your evening. The food is the main event and could be described as inventive, fresh and tasty. One of the culinary highlights of the USVI.

The selection of craft beers from St. John Brewers.

The selection of craft beers from St. John Brewers.

Located downtown in Mongoose Junction plaza and run by the good folks at St. John Brewers, The Tap House is a micro-brewery where you can sample the product from this favourite local institution. The Tropical Mango Pale ale is their best seller. The delicious food selection is also worth checking out – from burgers to fish tacos.

Located on the waterfront in Coral Bay, Miss Lucy’s is a great place to stop for lunch. The food is North American style with Caribbean influences. The ice-cold drinks are very refreshing after a hot morning of snorkeling at nearby Salt Pond.

St. Thomas

There are plenty of options on St. Thomas, especially in Charlotte Amalie. In the evening I recommend heading to Red Hook where you will find a good selection of restaurants and bars.

My personal favourite is Duffy’s Love Shack. Described as ‘The best parking lot bar in the world‘, this restaurant is located in a parking lot on the main road of Red Hook. The service, food and over-sized cocktails (complete with take-away ornaments) are all memorable.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for USVI – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

All flights into St. Thomas arrive at Cyril E. King Airport, 3-km from downtown Charlotte Amalie. The airport also serves as the gateway to St. John and is used as an access point for the British Virgin Islands.

Airlines providing international connections include:

  • Air Sunshine – services to Anguilla, Dominica, Nevis, Puerto Rico, St. Maarten, Tortola, Virgin Gorda
  • American Airlines – services to Charlotte, Miami, New York (JFK), Philadelphia
  • Cape Air – services to Saint Croix, Puerto Rico, Tortola
  • Delta Airlines – services to Atlanta, New York (JFK)
  • Hummingbird Air – services to Dominica, Nevis, Saint Kitts
  • JetBlue Airways – services to Puerto Rico, Boston
  • LIAT – services to Antigua, St. Maarten
  • Seaborne Airlines – services to Saint Croix, Puerto Rico
  • Sea Flight Airlines – services to Saint Croix
  • Spirit Airlines – services to Fort Lauderdale
  • Sun Country Airlines – services to Minneapolis/Saint Paul
  • Tradewind Aviation – services to Saint Barthélemy
  • United Airlines – services to Washington-Dulles, Chicago-O’Hare, Houston-Intercontinental, Newark

By Sea

Ferries

There are regular international ferry connections between the US Virgin Islands of St. John (Cruz Bay) and St. Thomas (Red Hook Bay and Charlotte Amalie) and the British Virgin Islands of Tortola (Road Town and West End Ferry Terminal), Jost Van Dyke (Great Harbour) and Virgin Gorda (Spanish Town).

For current schedules, refer to the following website.

Cruise Ships

United States Virgin Islands Travel Guide: Cruise ship anchored at Charlotte Amalie.

Cruise ship anchored at Charlotte Amalie.

Charlotte Amalie is the most popular cruise ship destination in the Caribbean. Visiting cruise ships dock at Havensight, a huge port which has the capacity to handle up to eleven cruise ships simultaneously and is a short walk from downtown.

You can access the current cruise ship schedule here.

Getting Around

The license plate of my rental car on St. John.

The license plate of my rental car on St. John.

Public Transport

There are buses operating on both St. Thomas and St. John, however the service is limited. If you wish to fully explore these islands you will need your own wheels.

On St. John, VITRAN (Virgin Islands Transit Service) operates one bus route (hourly) from Cruz Bay to Coral Bay then onto Salt Pond Bay, which covers most of the island.

On St. Thomas, there are regular buses operating between Charlotte Amalie and Red Hook.

Car

The best option for exploring the islands is to hire a car. On St. Thomas, you can collect a car upon arrival at Cyril E. King Airport or in downtown Charlotte Amalie. On St. John, there are numerous rental agencies located in Cruz Bay.

Driver’s holding international licenses must purchase a temporary foreign driver’s permit from the rental agent, while those holding U.S. driver’s licenses can drive for up to 90 days without a permit.

An oddity in the USVI is that driving is on the left side of the road (only place in the U.S.), a legacy from the Danish colonial era. However, all vehicles are American imports with left-hand steering so all drivers are sitting on the outside of the lane rather than on the inside of the lane. This does make a difference on the narrow windy roads.

Taxi

There are taxi operators available on both St. Thomas and St. John. Fares are based on a fixed tariff:

  • For the current tariff schedule of St. Thomas, refer to the following website.
  • For the current tariff schedule of St. John, refer to the following website.

Ferries

Frequent, fast and reliable inter-island ferries connect St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix. All schedules are available on the following website.

 

That’s the end of my USVI Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

USVI Travel Guide USVI Travel Guide USVI Travel Guide USVI Travel Guide USVI Travel Guide USVI Travel Guide USVI Travel Guide

USVI Travel Guide USVI Travel Guide USVI Travel Guide USVI Travel Guide USVI Travel Guide USVI Travel Guide USVI Travel Guide

British Virgin Islands Travel Guide

8 years ago
Darren McLean
A panoramic view of Brewers Bay, where lush rain forest meets the sea.

BVI Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel BVI Travel Guide!

Date Visited: May 2015

Introduction

With more than 60 islands and cays, the British Virgin Islands (BVI) offers something for everyone. Once a haven for pirates, today this stunningly beautiful archipelago is not only a welcoming place for visitors, but one of the world’s premier sailing destinations. This British Overseas Territory offers a truly unique travel experience for those fortunate enough to find their way to it’s shores.

A view of Savannah Bay, Virgin Gorda Island, British Virgin Islands.

A view of Savannah Bay, Virgin Gorda Island, British Virgin Islands.

The islands make up part of the Virgin Islands archipelago, with the remaining islands constituting the U.S. Virgin Islands (USVI). Almost all the islands are volcanic in origin with only four of them being of any significant size – the main islands of Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Jost van Dyke and Anegada.

A view of Road Town, the capital of BVI.

A view of Road Town, the capital of BVI.

Distances between the islands are short, each of them separated by the calm, azure-blue waters of the Caribbean sea, making BVI a sailor’s paradise.

For those without their own yacht, there is plenty to do on land from hiking lush, green volcanic peaks to exploring secluded coves and bays.

The pristine waters of 'The Baths' on Virgin Gorda island offer some of the best snorkelling in the BVI.

The pristine waters of ‘The Baths’ on Virgin Gorda island offer some of the best snorkelling in the BVI.

Location

BVI is located immediately to the east of the USVI islands of St. John and St. Thomas and 96-km to the east of Puerto Rico. Frequent boats connect BVI to USVI with many tourists preferring to fly into the much larger airport on St. Thomas.

History

Like almost all other islands in the Caribbean, the original settlers on BVI were the native Arawak Indians who arrived around 100-BC from present day Venezuela. They were eventually replaced during the 15th century by the more aggressive Carib Indians.

The flag of the British Virgin Islands which features Saint Ursula.

The flag of the British Virgin Islands which features Saint Ursula.

Did you know? 

The flag of BVI features the Union Jack and the coat of arms of BVI, which feature Saint Ursula holding a flaming gold oil lamp which is surrounded by a further eleven lamps, which represent her 11,000 virgin followers. The islands were named after these virgin followers by Christopher Columbus when he discovered the islands in 1493.

As with almost every other piece of real-estate in the Caribbean, the first European to sight the islands was – yes – Christopher Columbus, during his 2nd voyage to the Americas in 1493. While he never landed on the islands, he gave them the fanciful name Santa Ursula y las Once Mil Vírgenes (Saint Ursula and her 11,000 Virgins), shortened to Las Vírgenes (English: The Virgins), in honour of the feast day of Saint Ursula and the 11,000 virgins who were martyred with her.

The Spanish empire initially claimed the islands but never attempted to settled them. However, in subsequent years the islands proved to be very popular with the English, Dutch, French, Spanish, and Danish all jostling for control.

The many hidden bays and coves in the BVI archipelago have always attracted pirates and privateers seeking refuge and shelter. Sir Francis Drake visited the area on four separate occasions. Today the main channel through the archipelago is called the Sir Francis Drake Channel.

White Bay Beach, Jost Van Dyke Island, BVI.

White Bay Beach, Jost Van Dyke Island, BVI.

Another privateer who played a key role in the history of the islands was the Dutchman Joost van Dyk, who organised the first permanent settlement in the territory in Soper’s Hole, on the west end of Tortola. After he provided some (non-military) support to a Dutch admiral who later sacked San Juan (Puerto Rico), the Spanish retaliated by laying waste to everything on Tortola. Joost van Dyk managed to escape to a nearby island, which now bears his name.

A view of White Bay Beach, Jost Van Dyke Island, BVI.

A view of White Bay Beach, Jost Van Dyke Island, BVI.

The Dutch West India Company considered the BVI to be of important strategic value, due to their central geographical location. They built large stone warehouses east of Road Town to facilitate exchanges of cargo between North and South America.

England seized control of the BVI in 1672 and have retained influence since.

Beach on Virgin Gorda Island.

Beach on Virgin Gorda Island.

The British established sugar plantations on the islands, with slaves being imported from Africa as a source of labour. Once slavery was abolished (1834), the plantations went into decline. Today the population of BVI is 28,000, with 83% being Afro-Caribbean, descended from slaves brought to the islands by the British.

The mainstays of the economy today are tourism and offshore banking.

Financial Services

Offshore Banking Image

Photo source: International Man

A report in 2000 by KPMG concluded that nearly 41% of all offshore companies in the world were incorporated in the British Virgin Islands, making the BVI one of the world’s leading offshore financial centres.

The biggest selling point of a BVI company is corporate secrecy. Over the years there have been numerous scandals but the UK government has been reluctant to introduce any sort of meaningful reform to the industry.

The Territory, presided over by a British governor and ultimately the Queen, collected $180-m from registration fees in 2012. This represented more than 60% of total revenue for BVI.

Due to the success of the financial services sector, the BVI boasts one of the highest incomes per capita in the Caribbean.

Sightseeing

Tortola Island

Tortola is the main island of the BVI, and home to 87% of it’s population. This lush, mountainous, volcanic island is 19-km long and 5-km wide. It’s main town, and the capital of the BVI, is Road Town.

Legend says Christopher Columbus named the island ‘Tortuga‘ (Spanish for ‘turtle’), due to the presence of Turtle Doves on the island. However it was the Dutch who named the island ‘Ter Tholen‘ after a coastal island in the Netherlands. The British later renamed the island ‘Tortola‘.

The Northern coast has the best beaches on the island, including Smuggler’s Cove, Long Bay, Cane Garden Bay, Brewer’s Bay, Josiah’s Bay, and Lambert beach. There are mountains running along the spine of the island which are ideal for hiking and provide great vantage points. The highest peak is Mount Sage at 530-m.

Road Town

A colourful shopfront in Road Town, the capital of BVI.

A colourful shopfront in Road Town, the capital of BVI.

The capital and largest city (population: 9,400) of the BVI, Road Town is built around the horseshoe-shaped Road Harbour.

The city centre is small and compact and most sites can be visited in half a day.

They include:

  • J.R. O’Neal Botanic Gardens – A small botanic garden, located a short stroll from downtown.
  • Old Government House Museum – Located at the end of Main street, this whitewashed manor is a classic example of British colonial architecture. It served as the former residence to past British Governors and was where visiting royalty would stay. The old Government house has now been renovated and converted into a museum (the new Government house is located next door). One of the highlights are the beautiful murals painted on the walls of the dining room by local artists, which depict life around Road Town at the turn of the 19th century.
  • BVI Folk Museum – A small museum located on Main street which provides an overview of the history of the island, including slavery.
  • HM Prison – Located on Main street but now closed, this is the oldest structure in Road Town.
  • Main Street – The ‘main’ street is worth a stroll. Here you will find most sights and the best cafe in town.
Artwork inside Government House, Road Town, BVI.

Artwork inside Government House, Road Town, BVI.

For the best coffee in town, this caffeine freak recommends you head straight to Island Roots Cafe on Main. Apart from great coffee, lunch here is very good and there is a small shop selling artworks from local artists.  

Further along Main street, overlooking the harbour, you’ll find the large Pusser’s Road Town Pub. This place is famed for it’s Caribbean cuisine such as Jerk chicken and pork but they also offer more standard fare such as pizzas and hamburgers.  There is also a large gift shop onsite.

Main entrance to the Road Town prison - complete with a polite door knocker.

Main entrance to the Road Town prison – complete with a polite door knocker.

Frenchman’s Cay

This is the jumping off point for those travelling to and from the USVI. Regular ferries depart from the West End ferry terminal for St. John and St. Thomas (see the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details).

'Pusser's Landing' at Frenchman's Cay, BVI.

‘Pusser’s Landing’ at Frenchman’s Cay, BVI.

Smuggler’s Cove

At the island’s northwestern tip, Smuggler’s is a gorgeous cove with a bar, kiosk and good snorkeling off the beach. You will need your own transport to reach this remote beach.

Apple Bay

This beautiful bay on the north coast of Tortola is home to the Sugar Mill Hotel – a beautiful boutique hotel housed in the grounds of an old sugar mill. The Sugar Mill restaurant is one of the best on the island. If you have the opportunity to dine here you should do so. The bar is an ideal place to watch the sunset.

Windy Hill

Sunset drink at the Bananakeet bar which is located on Windy Hill.

Sunset drink at the Bananakeet bar which is located on Windy Hill.

Separating Apple Bay and Cane Garden Bay is Windy Hill, a steep hill which rises up directly out of the sea. Located on the roadside at an elevation of 120-m, the Bananakeet cafe is without a doubt the best place on Tortola to watch the sunset. From the terrace bar, you have a view along the north coast and across to other islands in the BVI and USVI archipelago.

Cane Garden Bay

Brown Booby at Cane Garden Bay, BVI.

Brown Booby at Cane Garden Bay, BVI.

Cane Garden Bay is picture-postcard perfect. The bay is one of the most popular beaches on the island and is overwhelmed when visiting cruise ship passengers are bussed in from Road Town. The protected bay is a popular anchorage for yachts, while the white sandy beach hosts plenty of beach-side bars and water-sports vendors.

A panoramic view of Cane Garden Bay, BVI.

A panoramic view of Cane Garden Bay, BVI.

Callwood Rum Distillery

Located just off the North Coast Rd at Cane Garden Bay, this family-run distillery is the oldest continuously operated distillery in the Eastern Caribbean. The Callwood family has been producing Arundel rum here for more than 300 years, using copper vats and wooden ageing casks.

Tours are available of the very rustic premises and a small store sells the local product and sample shots.

Brewers Bay

A sweeping view of Brewers Bay, BVI, where lush rain forest meets the sea.

A sweeping view of Brewers Bay, BVI, where lush rain forest meets the sea.

Over a steep hill from Cane Garden Bay you will find the beautiful palm-fringed Brewers Bay. The journey here is spectacular including a brake-smoking drive down a very steep road full of sharp switchback turns.

Nicole’s beach bar rents chairs and sells snacks. Due to it’s isolated location and difficult access road, the beach is normally blissfully quiet.

Palm Trees at sunset, Brewers Bay, Tortola Island, BVI.

Palm Trees at sunset, Brewers Bay, Tortola Island, BVI.

Josiah’s Bay

Located at the end of a long, quiet country lane is the best surf beach on Tortola. Josiah’s Bay is a beautiful sandy beach with good wave action when the swell is right. There are a couple of beach-side restaurants serving meals and drinks.

As with most places on the island you need your own transport to reach here.

Aragorn’s Studio

Meanwhile… on neighbouring Beef Island, a local metal sculptor – Aragorn Dick-Read – started a studio under the sea-grape trees fronting Trellis Bay, the broad beach just east of the airport. Soon he was joined by a community of local artists who have now setup a sprawling arts centre.

You can access Trellis Bay by taking the road that skirts around the runway behind the airport.

Jost Van Dyke Island

The stunning White Bay Beach on Jost Van Dyke Island, BVI.

The stunning White Bay Beach on Jost Van Dyke Island, BVI.

Located 8-km northwest of Tortola and St. John (USVI) and weighing in at just 8-square kilometres, Jost Van Dyke (JVD) is the smallest of the four main islands of the BVI. The full time population of the island is just 298.

The island was once the refuge of the Dutch privateer, Joost van Dyk, who used the island to wait out a Spanish sacking of Tortola. Today the island is instead invaded by beach-loving tourists from both the BVI and USVI who come to bathe on it’s beautiful beaches.

Frequent ferries connect Tortola (West End Ferry Terminal) and St. John (Cruz Bay) with JVD (Grand Harbour). See the ‘Getting Around’ section below for more details.

From Grand Harbour a taxi will take you up over the steep hill to stunning White Bay.

White Bay

A slice of heaven - White Bay Beach on Jost Van Dyke island, BVI.

A slice of heaven – White Bay Beach on Jost Van Dyke island, BVI.

This stunningly beautiful white sand beach is lapped by the most incredibly clear, turquoise waters. The beach is hugely popular with sailing tour groups and with the hundreds of do-it-yourself charter boats floating around this part of the world.

The beach is lined with a number of bars, the most famous of which is the Soggy Dollar Bar, so named because most of the patrons anchor off the beach, swim to shore, and pay for their drinks with wet money.

One of the many beach-side bars on White Bay Beach, BVI.

One of the many beach-side bars on White Bay Beach, BVI.

Virgin Gorda Island

Savannah Bay Beach on Virgin Gorda island, BVI.

Savannah Bay Beach on Virgin Gorda island, BVI.

At 21-square kilometres, Virgin Gorda is the third largest of the BVI islands, and the 2nd most populous. Christopher Columbus is said to have named the island “The Fat Virgin”, because the island’s profile on the horizon looks like a fat woman lying on her side. The island is a laid back place where you could easily spend a day or more exploring beautiful natural attractions – including the BVI’s number one tourist attraction – The Bath’s.

Frequent ferries connect Tortola (Road Town) and Beef Island (Trellis Bay) with Virgin Gorda (Spanish Town). See the ‘Getting Around’ section below for more details.

Public transport on the island is very limited. The best way to get around is to hire a car from one of the agents in Spanish Town.

Spanish Town

The main town on the island and the 2nd largest town in the BVI, Spanish Town was originally settled by Cornish miners who worked in the local copper mine. The town is small with little to offer the visitor. All ferries from Tortola arrive at the dock in Spanish Town, while a small airport (for private charters) is located just outside of town.

Virgin Gorda Island is surrounded by the turquoise waters of the Caribbean sea.

Virgin Gorda Island is surrounded by the turquoise waters of the Caribbean sea.

The Baths

British Virgin Islands Travel Guide: Fantastic snorkeling awaits at The Baths, the most popular tourist destination on Virgin Gorda island.

Fantastic snorkeling awaits at The Baths, the most popular tourist destination on Virgin Gorda island.

Located 2-km south of Spanish Town at the southern tip of the island, this collection of over-sized granite boulders is the number one tourist attraction in the BVI’s. These old volcanic rocks form a series of grottoes that flood with sea water. The snorkeling in Devil’s Bay is superb due to the fact that the seafloor is more rock and less sand so visibility is perfect.

When you wish to take a break from the snorkeling you can following a 20-minute trek, where you’ll get to clamber over boulders, wade through tidal pools and squeeze into impossibly narrow spaces before being spat out onto a white-sand beach.

This is a popular place and by 9-am each morning fleets of boats have moored off the coast, disgorging snorkelers and swimmers into the azure blue waters. If you come earlier or later in the day you will have more room to move.

Copper Mine National Park

British Virgin Islands Travel Guide: Ruins from a former copper mine in the Copper Mine National Park, Virgin Gorda, BVI.

Ruins from a former copper mine in the Copper Mine National Park, Virgin Gorda, BVI.

Located on a lonely bluff at the southwestern tip of the island is a set of ruins from an old Copper Mine. The mine was created by Cornish miners who worked the area between 1838 and 1867 and extracted as much as 10,000 tons of copper.

Accommodation

I stayed at the beautiful Sebastian’s on the Beach, which is located in Apple Bay on the north coast or Tortola. The hotel is located on a stretch of white sandy beach and is the perfect place to watch the sunset.

There are many other options for all budgets available on online sites such as booking.com

Eating Out

There is no shortage of good restaurants in the BVI. A dining highlight was dinner at the Sugar Mill Restaurant in Apple Bay (mentioned above).

For an amazing lunch on Virgin Gorda it’s hard to beat the BBQ at the wonderfully unpretentious and super friendly Hog Heaven. The views from the terrace overlooking Mosquito and Necker islands are breathtaking as is the flavour of the BBQ.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for the British Virgin Islands – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

International flights arrive at the small Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport, which is located on Beef Island, which is connected to Tortola by the Queen Elizabeth II bridge.

Long distance direct flights are not available due to the short runway. The runway can currently handle small regional planes, the largest being the 64 passenger ATR-72 operated by LIAT.

The following airlines provide international connections to BVI:

  • Air Sunshine – services to Anguilla, Dominica, Nevis, Puerto Rico, Saint Thomas, Sint Maarten
  • BVI Airways – services to Dominica, Sint Maarten
  • Cape Air – services to Puerto Rico
  • LIAT – services to Antigua, Puerto Rico, Sint Maarten, Saint Kitts
  • Seaborne Airlines – services to Puerto Rico
  • Winair – services to Sint Maarten

By Sea

Ferries

There are regular international ferry connections operating between Tortola (Road Town and West End Ferry Terminal) and the US Virgin Islands of St. John (Cruz Bay) and St. Thomas (Red Hook Bay and Charlotte Amalie).

International services also operate between Great Harbour on Jost Van Dyke and St. John and St. Thomas.

Click to view current ferry schedules for BVI.

Cruise Ships

Visiting cruise ships dock at a large pier near the entrance to the inner harbour at Road Town – a short walk from downtown.

Getting Around

Public Transport

Public transport on the islands is non-existent.

Car

The best option for exploring Tortola and Virgin Gorda is to hire a car. You can collect a car upon arrival at Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport or in Road Town. On Virgin Gorda there are rental agents located a short walk from the dock in Spanish Town. No

Taxi

There are taxi operators available on both Tortola and Virgin Gorda. Fares are based on a fixed tariff – best to confirm the price prior to commencing your journey.

Ferries

Frequent, fast and reliable inter-island ferries connect Tortola, Jost van Dyke, Virgin Gorda and Anegada islands. All schedules are available on the following website.

Private Yacht

Road Town is home to The Moorings – one of the largest yacht charter businesses in the world. At their marina on the outskirts of Road Town is a fleet of more than a hundred yachts and catamarans available for hire.

You can either choose to hire a boat and sail it yourself – bareboat – or you can pay extra to have a crew manage the sailing for you.

 

That’s the end of my BVI Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

 

BVI Travel Guide BVI Travel Guide BVI Travel Guide BVI Travel Guide BVI Travel Guide BVI Travel Guide BVI Travel Guide BVI Travel Guide BVI Travel Guide BVI Travel Guide

Saint Martin Travel Guide

8 years ago
Darren McLean
Caribbean Travel Quiz: Air France flight on final approach to Sint Maarten airport, flying low over Maho Beach.

Saint Martin Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Saint Martin Travel Guide!

Date Visited: May 2015

Introduction

At just 87-square kilometres, Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten has the distinction of being the world’s smallest inhabited island, which is divided between two nations – France (Saint Martin) and The Kingdom of the Netherlands (Sint Maarten). The division dates to 1648, with the island being divided roughly 60/40 between France and the Kingdom of the Netherlands.

While there is a border on the island, there are no border controls. People and goods are able to move freely between the two sides. The island is a duty-free zone and as such, is a major trading and commercial centre for the region.

The very low-key border marker between the Dutch and French side of the island. This is the only border the two countries share anywhere in the world.

The very low-key border marker between the Dutch and French side of the island. This is the only border the two countries share anywhere in the world.

Dutch Sint Maarten is one of the four constituent countries that form the Kingdom of the Netherlands – the others being Aruba, Curaçao and the Netherlands.

French Saint Martin is one of five overseas collectivities of France. The others being (click the links to view my Travel Guides) French Polynesia, Saint Barthélemy, Saint Pierre and Miquelon and Wallis and Futuna Islands.

Location

Saint Martin is located 15-km south of the British territory of Anguilla, 24-km northwest of Saint Barts and 51-km and 62-km north of the Dutch municipalities of Saba and Statia respectively. 

Due to its central location and well developed infrastructure, the island is a key regional transportation hub, offering frequent sea and air connections to neighbouring islands.

History

Like all the islands in the region, the first inhabitants of St. Martin were native Arawak Indians who arrived from present day Venezuela. They called the island ‘Sualouiga‘ or ‘Land of Salt‘ due to the numerous salt ponds scattered around the island. The Arawak’s were eventually replaced by the more aggressive Carib Indians.

The first European to sight the island was Christopher Columbus during his second voyage to the Americas in 1493. He named the island Isla de San Martín after Saint Martin of Tours because it was November 11 – St. Martin Day. Columbus claimed it as a Spanish territory although he never actually landed on the island. Spain made the settlement of the island a low priority.

However, both the Dutch and French coveted the island and in 1631 the Dutch founded a settlement and erected Fort Amsterdam. At this time the Dutch East India Company began salt mining operations on the island. In the pre-refrigeration age, the Dutch required salt in large quantities to preserve meat and fish.

A colourful and funky 'Welcome' sign on the Dutch side of the island.

A colourful and funky ‘Welcome’ sign on the Dutch side of the island.

At this time British and French settlements also developed on the island. All this changed in 1633 when the Spaniards, who were determined to maintain a tight control over the salt trade, invaded the island. Attempts by the French and Dutch to protect their settlements were futile, so they retreated, returning only after Spanish troops vacated the island in 1648.

On the 23rd of March 1648, the French and Dutch signed the Treaty of Concordia, agreeing to partition the island and co-exist together in a co-operative manner. Despite the signing of the treaty, both sides continuously jostled for more control of the island. This continued until 1817 when eventually the Treaty of Concordia was enforced, at which point the border that exists today was agreed upon.

In addition to salt mining, the French and Dutch developed sugar plantations, employing African slave labour. Once slavery was abolished, the sugar plantations went into decline with the island now dependent on it’s salt mines. At the height of the industry (1850), more then 330,000 barrels were produced and a third of the island’s population was employed in the industry.

Salt mining eventually declined and most inhabitants left the island to build a life elsewhere. At one point there were just 2000 people living on the island.

The islands’ fortune changed during the second world war when the US Air Force built a base on St. Martin (at present day Princess Juliana International Airport). This provided a gateway to the rest of the world and would allow the island to develop tourism – an industry that is today the mainstay of the economy.

A much more subdued (boring!) 'Welcome' sign on the French side of the border.

A much more subdued (boring!) ‘Welcome’ sign on the French side of the border.

The island’s duty-free status and white sandy beaches proved popular with tourists, resulting in a period of economic growth, fuelled by commercialism and development.

Today the much busier Dutch side of the island has a more American feel to it. Here you will find large resorts, shopping malls, casinos, cinema complexes, fast food restaurants and lots of duty free shops.

The quieter French side of the island, with it’s more relaxed, quaint towns, fine dining gourmet restaurants and hedonistic nudist beaches has a more distinctly European feel too it.

This mix adds something special to the island, offering visitors two very different travel experiences in one compact destination.

Currency

The Antilles Guilder is the official currency in the Dutch-controlled Sint Maarten.

The Antilles Guilder is the official currency in the Dutch-controlled Sint Maarten.

The two official currencies on St. Martin are the Euro on the French side and the Florin (Netherlands Antillean guilder or florin) on the Dutch side. To make life easier for the tourist hordes, US dollars are also accepted across the island. 

The Antillean guilder is the currency of Curaçao and Sint Maarten, which until 2010 formed the Netherlands Antilles along with Bonaire, Saba, and Sint Eustatius. The guilder was replaced by the United States dollar on 1 January 2011 on Bonaire, Saba and Sint Eustatius.

The Euro is the official currency in French St. Martin.

The Euro is the official currency in French St. Martin.

Flags

The flag of Sint Maarten.

The flag of Sint Maarten.

As with everything on this divided island, there is a Dutch flag for Sint Maarten and a French flag for St. Martin.

Sint Maarten

On August 19, 1983 the government of Sint Maarten issued a notice in which residents were invited to submit a design for a new flag. The design of 17 year old, Roselle Richardson, was chosen.

Very similar to the flag of the Philippines, the design features a horizontal bicolour of red and blue with the coat of arms of Sint Maarten on a white chevron, thus incorporating the colours of the Dutch flag. The red symbolises solidarity and courage, the blue peace and assurance of pardon, and the white purity and faith.

Set in the centre of the white chevron is the coat of arms of Sint Maarten which features a shield with a rising sun and the motto “Semper Pro Grediens” (English: always progressing).

Saint Martin

Flag of France

Flag of France

As an overseas collectivity of France, St Martin flies the French tricolour.

Sightseeing

Around Saint Martin

Marigot

With its streets lined with Belle Époque style lamp posts, fine cafés, pâtisseries, boulangeries and a produce market, Marigot has a very European feel to it. This charming waterfront town is the main town and capital on the French side of the island.

Apart from a hillside fort, there is not much to see but it is a pleasant place to spend some time wandering around.

The Anguilla ferry departs from the town dock (see the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details).

Grand Case

The beach at Grand Case, one of several excellent beaches on the French side of St Martin.

The beach at Grand Case, one of several excellent beaches on the French side of St Martin.

The small beach-side town of Grand Case has been dubbed the ‘Gourmet Capital of the Caribbean’. The town’s Creole architecture evokes the feel of other French colonial New World towns such as New Orleans. Each evening, the fine-dining restaurants along the beachfront road place their menus and specials out front. Would-be diners stroll along the strip until they find a place that strikes their fancy. You should ensure that you eat at least one meal here during your stay – you will not be disappointed.

While dining is the premier attraction, there’s also a decent sandy beach, which is an ideal place to swim and watch the sunset. The town offers several affordable places to stay – mainly small guest houses and inns.

Orient Bay Beach

The most dazzling beach on St. Martin - Orient Bay Beach.

The most dazzling beach on St. Martin – Orient Bay Beach.

Orient Beach is the most developed, most popular and the busiest beach on the island and is especially known for its ‘swimsuit optional’ section. There’s also a naturist resort located at the southern end of the beach. The beach is the only one on the island with a large number of beach bars and restaurants.

Bay Rouge

The red sand of Bay Rouge, St. Martin.

The red sand of Bay Rouge, St. Martin.

Located west of Marigot, quiet Bay Rouge (also spelled Baie Rouge) is the perfect place to escape the crowds and spend a relaxing afternoon. There is a beach bar and restaurant available for fuelling.

Around Sint Maarten

Philipsburg

The historic Philipsburg Court House, the centre of the capital of Sint Maarten.

The historic Philipsburg Court House, the centre of the capital of Sint Maarten.

With a population of 1,327 inhabitants, Philipsburg is the largest town and capital of Dutch Sint Maarten. It is the main commercial centre on the island and the place where visiting cruise ships dock. The large cruise ship facility can cater for several enormous cruise ships at any one time, disgorging their passengers who head straight to Front street to enjoy duty-free shopping.

The town is located on a wide sandy bay and is characterised by its many shops catering to cruise ship passengers. There are a number of bars and restaurants along the waterfront.

Philipsburg beach, the centre of action in downtown Philipsburg.

Philipsburg beach, the centre of action in downtown Philipsburg.

Maho Beach

Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide: Air France flight on final approach to Sint Maarten airport, flying low over Maho Beach.

Air France flight on final approach to Sint Maarten airport, flying low over Maho Beach.

Welcome to plane-spotting heaven and jet-blast central. 

Maho Beach is a small stretch of white beach which is famous for its position at the end of the runway of Princess Juliana International Airport. Planes have a low approach to the runway, passing just over the heads of beach-goers. The best time to see the big planes land and take off is between 13:30 and 17:00.

At the end of the beach is the Sunset Bar and Grill, which offers a prime viewing spot. Flight arrivals are posted on a board outside the restaurant.

Maho beach is heaven for plain-spotters and attracts enthusiasts from around the world who gather on the beach to photograph the huge planes approaching to land just over the heads of relaxing holiday makers.

When the larger planes take-off, you can expect to receive a good amount of jet-blast. If your car is stuck on the road directly behind the runway (as does happen as drivers stop to watch the planes land and take off) you can expect to receive a beach full of sand in your car. Best to wind up the windows.

Oyster Pond

Located on the border between the French and Dutch side of the island is tiny Oyster Pond. There is no beach here but rather a picturesque harbour that includes a marina and several restaurants and bars.

The St. Barts ferry departs from here (see the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details).

Accommodation

There is ample accommodation options on both sides of the island for all budgets. Due to its compact size, everything is a short drive so it doesn’t matter where you base yourself.

I stayed at Princess Heights Luxury Condo Hotel, which is located on a hill overlooking Oyster Pond and Dawn beach. The views from the hotel are spectacular.

I also stayed on the beach at beautiful Simpson Bay at the Atrium Beach Resort & Spa.

There are numerous options available on booking.com

Eating Out

There is no shortage of restaurants, cafes and bars on the island. Restaurants on the Dutch side cater more to visiting American tourists while those on the French side offer a finer European style dining experience.

A highlight is dinner on the beach-front street in Grand Case.

Visa Requirements

There is no physical border between the French and Dutch territories – people and goods may travel freely between the two sides of the island.

Some nationalities require visas for Sint Maarten – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Some nationalities require visas for Saint Martin – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

St. Martin is a major transport hub for this part of the Caribbean. The island provides frequent sea and air connections to neighbouring islands.

By Air

On final approach to St. Martin with Winair - passing over Maho beach.

On final approach to St. Martin with Winair – passing over Maho beach.

There are two airports on the island, Princess Juliana International Airport – located on the Dutch side and L’Espérance Airport – located on the French side.

The main airport is Princess Juliana International Airport (also known as Saint Maarten International Airport), named after Juliana of the Netherlands, who, as Crown Princess, landed here in 1944 – the year after the airport opened. The airport serves as the base for Winair. Almost all international flights arrive and depart from here. The airport is one of the biggest and busiest in the Caribbean and is best known for its very low-altitude flyover landing approach due to one end of its runway being adjacent to the shoreline of Maho Beach.

The second and much smaller airport is L’Espérance Airport, also known as Grand Case Airport, located on the French side of the island. The airport is used only for smaller aircraft for regional flights to other French islands.

Princess Juliana International Airport

The following airlines provide international connections to Princess Juliana International Airport:

  • Air Antilles Express (operated by Winair) – services to Dominica, Guadeloupe, Puerto Rico
  • Air Caraïbes – services to Paris (Orly), Haiti (Port-au-Prince), Guadeloupe (seasonal)
  • Air France – services to Paris (Charles de Gaulle)
  • Air Transat – services to Montréal (Trudeau), Toronto (Pearson)
  • American Airlines – services to Charlotte, Miami, Philadelphia, New York (JFK)
  • BVI Airways – services to British Virgin Islands (Tortola)
  • Caribbean Airlines – services to Jamaica (Kingston), Trinidad
  • Copa Airlines – services to Panama City
  • Delta Air Lines – services to Atlanta, New York (JFK), Minneapolis/St. Paul (seasonal)
  • Fly All Ways – services to Paramaribo
  • Insel Air – services to Curaçao, Haiti (Port-au-Prince), Dominican Republic (Santo Domingo)
  • Insel Air Aruba – services to Aruba, Dominican Republic (Santo Domingo)
  • JetBlue Airways – services to Boston, New York (JFK)
  • KLM – services to Amsterdam
  • LIAT – services to Antigua, Barbados, British Virgin Islands (Tortola), Puerto Rico, Saint Kitts, Saint Lucia, US Virgin Islands (Saint Croix & Saint Thomas)
  • PAWA Dominicana – Dominican Republic (Santo Domingo), Antigua
  • Seaborne Airlines – services to Puerto Rico
  • Spirit Airlines – services to Fort Lauderdale
  • Sunwing Airlines – services to Montréal (Trudeau), Toronto (Pearson), Québec City (seasonal)
  • TUI Airlines Netherlands – services to Amsterdam
  • United Airlines – services to Newark, Washington (Dulles), Chicago (O’Hare) (seasonal)
  • WestJet – services to Toronto (Pearson), Montréal (seasonal)
  • Winair – services to Antigua, British Virgin Islands (Tortola), Dominica, Nevis, Saba, Saint-Barthélemy, Saint Kitts, Sint Eustatius.

L’Espérance Airport

The following airlines provide international connections to L’Espérance Airport:

  • Air Antilles Express – services to Guadeloupe
  • Air Caraïbes – services to Guadeloupe
  • St Barth Commuter – services to Saint Barts

By Sea

The 'Ovation of the Seas' cruise ship, docked offshore at Philipsburg.

The ‘Ovation of the Seas’ cruise ship, docked offshore at Philipsburg.

Cruise ships visiting the island dock at the large (offshore) Dr. A. C. Wathey Cruise & Cargo Facility in Philipsburg. Passengers are transferred to the island aboard tender boats.

Inter-Island Ferries

Due to its central location, St. Martin is a hub for ferry services to Anguilla, St. Barts and Saba.

Anguilla

The Anguilla ferry docked at Marigot, St. Martin.

The Anguilla ferry docked at Marigot, St. Martin.

The most popular way to reach Anguilla is via the frequent ferry service which connects Marigot (Saint Martin) with Blowing Point (Anguilla). The service runs every 45 minutes – with the crossing taking 25-minutes. You need to clear customs and immigration at both docks. Currently, schedules and fares are posted on the Anguilla Tourist Board website.

Charter services can also be booked from Blowing Point to Princess Juliana Airport (Dutch St. Maarten)

St. Barts

The Voyager fast ferry (seen here at its dock at Oyster Pond, St. Martin) offers the best connection between St. Martin and St. Barts.

The Voyager fast ferry (seen here at its dock at Oyster Pond, St. Martin) offers the best connection between St. Martin and St. Barts.

There are daily fast ferry connections between Saint Martin and Saint Barts – operated by the Voyager ferry company. Services run between Gustavia (Saint Barts) and Marigot (Saint Martin), and between Gustavia and Oyster Pond (Saint Martin). From Marigot, the journey is 90-minutes; from Oyster Pond, the ride is 30-minutes.

I travelled to St. Barts from Oyster Pond with Voyager. It’s a fast, reliable and comfortable journey across the Saint Barthélemy Channel.

From Philipsburg (Sint Maarten), Great Bay Express offers a daily fast ferry service (40-min) to Gustavia. Check their website for schedule and fares.

Saba

A ferry service connects Saba with Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin three times a week. The 45-km journey takes one and a half hours. The service is operated by Saba Transport using the vessel Dawn II.

Check their website for current schedules and fares.

Getting Around

As with everything else on St. Martin, there are lots of options when it comes to ‘getting around’.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. Unlike Anglo-Caribbean islands, drivers are not required to pay for a temporary driving permit. Driving is on the right-hand side of the road, with the roads being in very good condition. St. Martin’s road system essentially comprises a ring road that skirts the island’s coastline and smaller roads linking the built-up areas.

Shared minibuses cover most areas of the island. There is no fixed time table however there are dedicated bus stops.

Taxis are also available for hire but do not have meters, instead charging according to a tariff schedule.

 

That’s the end of my Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide Saint Martin/ Sint Maarten Travel Guide

Anguilla Travel Guide

8 years ago
Darren McLean
Villas, Shoal Bay West Beach, Anguilla.

Anguilla Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Anguilla Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

As other Caribbean islands succumb to rabid consumerism, commercialism and development, tiny Anguilla has chosen to remain a quiet, charming, serene up-market playground for wealthier, more discerning tourists.

Unlike neighbouring St. Martin, you will not find brash casinos, cruise ship terminals nor shopping malls here. Instead, you will find a small island (26-km long and 4.8-km wide), which is ringed by stunning powdery-white sandy beaches and turquoise waters.

The island was once part of a Federation with St. Kitts and Nevis but is today a British overseas territory.

Location

Anguilla is a flat, low-lying slab of raised coral and limestone seabed which is located a short distance across the Anguilla Channel from St. Martin. The most popular way of reaching Anguilla is via the frequent ferry service, which connects the island to St. Martin (see the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details).

History

Like neigbouring islands, the original inhabitants of Anguilla were native Arawak Indians who migrated in dug-out canoes from present day Venezuela thousands of years ago. Eventually, they were replaced by the fiercer Carib Indians.

Shoal Bay East Beach is just one of many stunning beaches on Anguilla.

Shoal Bay East Beach is just one of many stunning beaches on Anguilla.

Christopher Columbus sailed past Anguilla on his second voyage to the Americas in 1493 but never landed. The Spaniards named the island ‘Anguila‘, which means Eel, due to its long eel-like shape. The English anglicised the name to Anguilla.

The first Europeans to settle on the island were English settlers who arrived from St. Kitts in the year 1650. In the preceding years, numerous battles were waged between the French and the British for control of the island. However, the British always managed to maintain control.

Anguilla Flag

Anguilla Flag

The British attempted to develop Anguilla into a plantation-based economy by importing African slaves. Unfortunately, the island’s soil and climate were unfavourable and the plantations were largely unsuccessful. Today, 90% of the population of 13,500 is comprised mostly of the descendants of former slaves.

Anguilla Travel Guide: Shoal Bay East Beach

Shoal Bay East Beach is one of the main swimming beaches on pristine Anguilla.

In 1871, the British forced Anguilla into a Federation with St. Kitts. The capital of the Federation was located in Basseterre (currently the capital of St. Kitts). In 1882, the island of Nevis was forced into the Federation. At no time was the Federation popular. Hence, all three islands petitioned for direct and separate rule. During this time, the affairs of Anguilla were managed from St. Kitts. During the 1960’s, two referendums were held whereby the population voted almost entirely to separate from the Federation.

Anguilla was eventually allowed to secede from the Federation thereby receiving its first constitution in 1976. However, it was not until 1980 that Anguilla was formally disassociated from the Federation (at which point it became a separate British dependency).

Today, Anguilla is an up-market tourist destination with the industry being one of the mainstays of the economy.

Sightseeing

The Valley

Anguilla Travel Guide: St Gerard's Catholic Church, The Valley, Anguilla.

St Gerard’s Catholic Church, The Valley, Anguilla.

The island’s capital (and also it’s largest city), The Valley (population: 1,067), is a nondescript provincial town that is located in the centre of the island.

The Valley has little history and few examples of colonial architecture due to the relocation of Anguilla’s administration to Basseterre (St. Kitts) in 1825. The town became the capital in 1980 after the island was formally separated from the Federation with St. Kitts and Nevis.

The town is small and compact, there are only a couple of sites which can be seen in half an hour.

  • Wallblake House – located at Cross Roads, this plantation house was built in 1787 and is now owned by the Catholic Church who use it to house the parish priest.
  •  St. Gerard’s Catholic Church – located next door to Wallblake house, this church has an interesting facade decorated with pebbles, stones, cement, wood and tiles.
St Gerard's Roman Catholic Church, Anguilla.

St Gerard’s Roman Catholic Church is one of the few sights in The Valley, the capital of Anguilla.

If you are hungry or in need of a caffeine fix while you’re in The Valley, I highly recommend Valley Bistro. It is located at Government Corner which is a short walk from Wallblake house. The menu features both French and British cuisine. A good choice for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Next door to the bistro is the Stone Cellar Art Gallery, which showcases works from local artists.

Around the Island

On Anguilla, there are 30 amazing beaches to explore. If your perception of Paradise is miles of white powdery sand, lapped by warm crystal clear turquoise waters, then this island is close to Heaven.

You can drive around the island in under 2 hours without stopping. However, you should plan to make plenty of stops to enjoy time at the many beautiful beaches. The best beaches are located along the northern coast and here you will find most of the accommodation and dining options.

East End Village

For those who wish to gain an understanding of the island, it’s people, culture and history your first stop should be at the Heritage Collection. Located in the tiny settlement of East End Village, this is the best museum on the island.

This small museum is crammed full of everything to do with Anguilla (including a collection of postage stamps). The museum is the life-long labour of love of Mr. Colville Petty, who has amassed a huge collection of items relating to Anguilla and has arranged them in topical sections. The engaging Mr Petty is not only the owner but also the curator and an enthusiastic guide. Depending on your level of interest you could spend an hour or two here.

Mead’s Bay

If you are in search of lots of white powdery sand, crystal clear, turquoise water with few people then Mead’s Bay is the beach for you. Located on the north-west coast, it is one of the best beaches in the Caribbean.

If you are hungry, you can refuel at the amazing Blanchards Beach Shack – see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more details.

Mead's Bay Beach, Anguilla.

Mead’s Bay Beach, Anguilla.

Shoal Bay East

On an island that boasts one amazing beach after another, Shoal Bay East is my pick as the best beach…. A stunning sweep of fine, white powdery sand, lapped by calm, turquoise water. The beach is located on the north-east coast and is never crowded.

Shoal Bay East Beach, Anguilla

Shoal Bay East Beach is one of the main swimming beaches on Anguilla.

Rendezvous Bay

Another stunning beach located on the south-west coast offering more white powdery sand and calm turquoise waters.

Palm trees on Rendezvous Bay, Anguilla.

Palm trees on Rendezvous Bay, Anguilla.

Accommodation

There is a range of accommodation options catering for all budgets but the island has a reputation as an up-market tourist destination and as such most of the options come with a high-end price tag. Despite it’s reputation you can find rooms for under $100 per night on sites such as booking.com

For those on a tight budget neighbouring St. Martin offers cheaper accommodation options and the frequent ferry service allows visitors to visit Anguilla on day trips.

Eating Out

The cuisine of Anguilla has been influenced by the cuisines of Africa, Britain and France. As with other Anglo-Caribbean islands, Callalloo soup (made from a green leaf introduced from Africa) is a popular starter.

Seafood is abundant and is featured on most menus. However this small, arid island is not suited to raising livestock so most meat (and other produce) is imported.

Blanchards Beach Shack

Blanchards Beach Shack

On an island catering to wealthy tourists, there is no shortage of fine dining options, but it is easy to find more reasonably priced options.

One such option is Blanchards Beach Shack (BBS), located on the beach at Mead’s Bay. BBS offers fantastic, tasty food at reasonable prices and is a local favourite for lunch. Their tacos, jerk chicken sandwiches and lobster rolls are especially popular. After lunch you can roll into the turquoise waters of Mead’s Bay.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Anguilla – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

The Clayton J. Lloyd International Airport is a small airport located a short drive from The Valley and the beautiful white sand beaches.

The following airlines provide international connections:

By Sea

The Anguilla ferry docked at Marigot (St. Martin)

The Anguilla ferry docked at Marigot (St. Martin)

The most popular way to reach the island is via the frequent ferry service which connects Blowing Point (Anguilla) with Marigot (Saint Martin).

The service runs every 45 minutes, with the crossing taking 25-minutes. You need to clear customs and immigration at both docks. Currently schedules and fares are posted on the Anguilla Tourist Board website.

Charter services can also be booked from Blowing Point to Princess Juliana Airport (Dutch St. Maarten).

Getting Around

Anguilla License Plate

The license plate on my Anguilla rental car.

There is no public transport on Anguilla. The best option for exploring the island is to rent a car, which you can do at the airport or at the Blowing Point ferry terminal.

I used Andy’s Auto Rentals, which I would recommend. Andy offers competitive rates and goes the extra mile to provide you with good service.

Like other Anglo-Caribbean islands, the government raises money from tourists by requiring all drivers to purchase a temporary drivers permit – this can be purchased through the rental agencies.

Driving is on the left-hand side of the road. You could drive a circuit around the island in a couple of hours. Thanks to British subsidies the roads are in better condition compared to other Caribbean islands.

Taxi’s are available and charge based on a fixed tariff schedule.

 

That’s the end of my Anguilla Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Anguilla Travel Guide Anguilla Travel Guide Anguilla Travel Guide Anguilla Travel Guide Anguilla Travel Guide

Saint Barts Travel Guide

8 years ago
Darren McLean
A panoramic view of Anse du Gouverneur.

Saint Barts Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Saint Barts Travel Guide!

Date Visited: May 2015

Introduction

Saint-Barthélemy or Saint-Barth (in French)/ St. Barts (in English), once had the distinction of being the only Swedish colony in the Caribbean. Today it is a French overseas collectivity.

A traditional Swedish-style cottage in Gustavia.

A traditional Swedish-style cottage in Gustavia.

This small (25 square kilometres) volcanic island has a reputation for being an upmarket playground for the rich and famous. But, like a sparkling diamond set in the turquoise waters of the Caribbean, St. Barts has many sides to it.

For some it is a place to moor their mega-yacht, holiday in a luxurious private villa, dine in exclusive restaurants – where French chefs prepare haute cuisine – and shop in expensive boutiques.

For others, St. Barts is a day trip from neighbouring St. Martin. A chance to dip into another world before returning back to reality.

However, despite it’s reputation, it is possible to have a reasonably priced holiday on the island. You can secure a hotel room without taking out a second mortgage on your home, you can eat in moderately priced restaurants and car rental is affordable.

Either way, if you have the chance to visit this enchanting island you should do so, no matter your budget.

Location

St. Barts lies 26-km southeast of Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin (Dutch/ French), 43-km southeast of Anguilla (British) and about 50-km northeast of Saba and Statia.

The most popular way of reaching the island is by daily fast ferry from St. Martin – see the ‘Getting there’ section below for more details.

History

Like neighbouring islands, St. Barts was originally inhabited by the native Arawak Indians who sailed up through the Antilles from Venezuela. They were replaced by the more aggressive Carib Indians.

The first European to make landfall on the island was Columbus during his 2nd voyage to the America’s in 1493, he named the island after his brother – Bartolomeo. As with other islands, Columbus received a hostile reception from the Caribs so the Spanish never attempted to settle the island.

St. Barts was first settled in 1648 by French colonists from neighbouring St. Kitts. Five years later, a raid by angry Carib Indians destroyed the settlement killing all the settlers.

In 1763, the island was settled again by the French. French buccaneers also used the island as a base to raid Spanish galleons. There is still believed to be buried treasure on the island.

Due to it’s small size and rocky, dry landscape, sugar plantations were never established on the island so slaves were never present in large numbers. This is reflected in the population today (9,000), which is mostly comprised of descendants of the first French settlers.

In 1784 the French sold St. Barts to Sweden in exchange for trading rights in the Swedish port of Gothenburg. As a free port under Swedish rule, Gustavia was a thriving settlement. During this time anything could be bought or sold by anyone, including pirates. The harbour was surrounded by overflowing warehouses and the port was busy with visiting merchant ships from many nations.

France re-purchased the island in 1878 and has maintained control ever since.

Many influences from the Swedish era still remain today, including the name of the capital – Gustavia. The town remains a free port, it’s street signs are in French and Swedish and Swedish architecture can still be seen around the old town.

All street signs in Gustavia are in Swedish and French.

All street signs in Gustavia are in Swedish and French.

Up until 2007, St. Barts was part of the French overseas department of Guadeloupe but separated following a successful secession vote in 2003. Being French, St. Barts is part of the European Union with the Euro as it’s official currency. Like other French overseas regions, St. Barts receives generous subsidies each year from Paris.

Today tourism is the islands’ key industry and only got started after the eccentric Dutch aviator, Rémy de Haenen, landed his plane at St. Jean – the location of today’s airport – in 1946. He would later make the first landing on Saba, opening that island to aviation and tourism. 

He eventually became the first hotelier and the island’s mayor, hosting the rich and famous such as Howard Hughes and Hollywood stars. In 1957, American millionaire David Rockefeller bought a property on the island. The rich and famous continue to flock to the island.

Swedish-era colonial cottage in Gustavia.

Swedish-era colonial cottage in Gustavia.

Today the island enjoys a high standard of living all thanks to the international investment and the wealth generated by wealthy tourists. Tourism attracts about 200,000 visitors every year, many of these are day-trippers from St. Martin. Most of the food on the island is imported by air plane or boat from the US or France.

Flag

The unofficial flag of St. Barts.

The unofficial flag of St. Barts.

The flag of Saint Barthélemy is the French tricolour. This is because Saint Barthélemy is a self-governing overseas collectivity of France. An unofficial flag of Saint Barthélemy, consisting of the island’s coat of arms centred on a white field, is also used on the island.

The flag of St. Barts flying outside the Hotel de Collectivite (City Hall) in Gustavia.

The flag of St. Barts flying outside the Hotel de Collectivite (City Hall) in Gustavia.

The coat of arms consists of a shield divided into three horizontal stripes, which contain three gold fleurs-de-lis on blue, above a white Maltese cross on red, over three gold crowns on blue. The shield is topped by a gold crown, while beneath, on a white banner, is the name “Ouanalao“, which was the original name given to the island by the indigenous inhabitants.

Currency

Euro Currency

Euro Currency

Being a part of France, the official currency of St. Barts is the Euro, the US dollar is widely accepted. As can be expected on an island which is a playground for the rich and famous, the cost of everything is high!

Sightseeing

Gustavia

View over Gustavia, the capital of Saint Barts.

View over Gustavia, the capital of Saint Barts.

The capital and largest city (2,300), Gustavia is built around a U-shaped cove facing the harbour on the west side.

Formerly known as “Carénage” (after the shelter it provided to damaged ships), the Swedes renamed the capital in 1785 in tribute to their king, Gustav III.

Under the Swedes, Gustavia was a thriving neutral, free port. The city attracted traders from around the globe and had a population double that of today. During this time, the Swedes built many of the architectural gems that remain.

A wedding car in Gustavia.

A wedding car in Gustavia.

Gustavia today is a mix of upmarket designer boutiques, glittering jewellery stores, cafes, restaurants and restored wooden and stone buildings from the Swedish era.

European style in downtown Gustavia.

European style in downtown Gustavia.

Despite the expensive boutiques and mega-boats moored in the harbour, the city remains a charming, unpretentious place to visit and wander. It’s small and compact and all sites can be visited on foot in half a day.
Saint-Bartholomew Anglican Church, Gustavia.

Saint-Bartholomew Anglican Church, Gustavia.

Sites include:

  • Saint-Bartholomew Anglican Church – Located on Rue du Centenaire, this church was built in 1885 with stones brought from Statia.
  • Wall House Museum – Located at the far end of La Pointe on the waterfront next to the Hotel de Collectivite, this small museum contains an eclectic mix of displays providing an overview of the history of the island. Displays are in French and Swedish.
  • Forts – There are three forts in Gustavia, Fort Karl, Fort Gustav and Fort Oscar – all of them very much in ruins.
  • Shopping – The main shopping street in Gustavia is Rue de la République. Here you will find lots of expensive boutiques where you can empty your wallet.
A vintage Fiat in Gustavia.

A vintage Fiat in Gustavia.

Around the Island

With Gustavia being the only town, the rest of the island is comprised of small villages lining beaches nestled in picturesque coves and bays. With a rental car you can drive around the entire island in 2-hours. A more relaxed tour would take a full day.

Colombier Beach

Colombier Beach is a popular north coast beach.

Colombier Beach is a popular north coast beach.

Located in the north-western part of the island, this crescent shaped beach offers calm waters and good snorkeling. It’s a 20-min walk down to the beach from the main road. There are no facilities so you will need to carry all your own food/ drinks in with you.

A view of the north coast of St. Barts.

A view of the north coast of St. Barts.

Anse du Gouverneur

Entrance to Anse de Gouverneur beach.

Entrance to Anse de Gouverneur beach.

Located on the south side of the island, a short drive over a steep hill from Gustavia, this secluded beach (main photo) offers brilliant white sand and sparkling turquoise water. The wide sweep of sand ensures there is plenty of room for everyone.

The pristine Gouverneur Beach is the finest on St. Barts.

The pristine Gouverneur Beach is the finest on St. Barts.

Accommodation

Typical accommodation on St. Barts - a deluxe villa.

Typical accommodation on St. Barts – a deluxe villa.

The large scale hotel developments found on other Caribbean islands are not permitted on tiny and exclusive St. Barts. Hotels on the island tend to be small and intimate, with luxury villas comprising 70% of accommodation.

While St. Barts offers the visitor the opportunity to spend $20,000 per night on a luxury villa, you can also find a comfortable room for under $200 per night.

If you wish to book a private villa, it’s best to contact the owner or booking agent directly.

If you wish to book a more affordable hotel, it’s best to book using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

St. Barts is part of the French West Indies and generally caters to a wealthy clientele. As such cuisine on the island is taken very seriously.

There is no shortage of exclusive fine dining restaurants but you can also find reasonably priced cafes and restaurants where mere mortals can afford to eat.

A great place for lunch is the wonderfully unpretentious Restaurant O’Corail, which is located directly on the beach at Grand Cul de Sac. The affordable menu offers a range of exceptionally well done meals, all using local produce. There is a dive centre next door if you wish to burn off some calories after lunch.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for St. Barts – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

A Winair flight from St. Martin, landing on the very short runway at St. Barts.

A Winair flight from St. Martin, landing on the very short runway at St. Barts.

International flights arrive at Gustaf III Airport (named after King Gustav III of Sweden), also known as Saint Barthélemy Airport, which is located in the village of St. Jean, a 10-min drive over the hill from Gustavia.

This airport has been ranked as one of the most dangerous in the world, boasting the second-shortest commercial runway at 650-m (the shortest is on neighbouring Saba).

Only small planes can land here and must first clear a slope before landing on the short airstrip, which ends abruptly at the beach.

The following airlines provide international connections:

  • Air Antilles Express – services to Guadeloupe
  • St Barth Commuter – services to Antigua, Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin
  • Tradewind Aviation – services to Antigua, US Virgin Islands (Saint Thomas), Puerto Rico (San Juan)
  • Winair – services to Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin

By Sea

The Voyager fast ferry (seen here at its dock at Oyster Pond, St. Martin) offers the best connection between St. Martin and St. Barts.

The Voyager fast ferry (seen here at its dock at Oyster Pond, St. Martin) offers the best connection between St. Martin and St. Barts.

There are daily fast ferry connections between Saint Martin and Saint Barts operated by the Voyager ferry company. Services run between Gustavia and Marigot (St-Martin), and between Gustavia and Oyster Pond (St-Martin). From Marigot, the journey is 90-minutes; from Oyster Pond, the ride is 30-minutes. Check the website for schedules and fares. I travelled to St. Barts from Oyster Pond with Voyager. It’s a fast comfortable journey across the Saint Barthélemy Channel.

From Philipsburg (Sint Maarten), Great Bay Express offers a daily fast ferry service (40-min) to Gustavia. Check their website for schedule and fares.

Getting Around

The license plate of my rental car on St. Barts.

The license plate of my rental car on St. Barts.

There is no public transport on the island. You either walk, hitch a ride or hire a car.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a rental car. There are loads of agencies in Gustavia and at the airport. Most cars are manual transmission and compact, which is a good thing as most of the roads are narrow and windy.

There are two petrol stations on the island, one near the airport and one at Lorient beach. Both are closed on Sunday.

Taxis are also available from one of the two taxi stations on the island (airport and Gustavia). There are no meters or fixed tariffs. Fares can be expensive so it’s best to confirm the cost before you commence your journey.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Saint Barts Travel Guide Saint Barts Travel Guide Saint Barts Travel Guide Saint Barts Travel Guide Saint Barts Travel Guide

Saba Travel Guide

8 years ago
Darren McLean
Artwork at Saba airport.

Saba Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Saba Travel Guide!

Date Visited: May 2015

Introduction

Saba is completely unique, totally unlike anywhere else in the Caribbean. If you ever have the chance to visit this amazing island you should.

White-throated Hummingbird on Saba.

White-throated Hummingbird on Saba.

The small population of the island consists of settlers from a variety of countries, including Dutch, English, Scottish, Irish and African.

Like neighbouring Statia, both English and Dutch are spoken on the island and both languages are official, however the everyday language is English. Education is in English.

Along with Bonaire and St. Eustatius (Statia), Saba is part of the Caribbean Netherlands. The island is small with a land area of just 13 square kilometres and a population of 1,991 inhabitants. The capital and largest city is ‘The Bottom’.

Location

Caribbean Netherlands

Saba is located northwest of the Dutch territory of St. Eustatius (Statia) and southwest of Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin (Dutch/ French), St. Barths (French) and Anguilla (British)

The island is essentially a volcano, rising up dramatically out of the Caribbean sea. At 887 metres, the peak of the volcano – Mount Scenery – is the highest point within the Kingdom of the Netherlands. The volcano is classified as ‘potentially active’.

Mount Scenery looms large over the town of Windwardside.

Mount Scenery looms large over the town of Windwardside.

History

Columbus sighted Saba on his 2nd voyage to the Americas in 1493, however he did not land as he was deterred by the rocky, perilous shoreline.

It wasn’t until the 1630’s, that the Dutch Governor of neighbouring Statia sent several Dutch families to colonise the island for the Dutch West India Company.

Due to it’s rugged landscape, the island is a natural fortress, and as such was used as a private sanctuary for the families of smugglers and pirates. In 1664, English pirates, including Thomas Morgan, evicted the Dutch settlers to neighbouring Saint Martin for refusing to swear allegiance to the English crown.

The Dutch returned and in the 17th and 18th century used the island to produce sugar and rum with a small population of slaves. Over the years the island has been controlled by the British, French and the Dutch. The Dutch have now held continuous control since 1816.

The rich volcanic soil and abundant rainfall ensure Saba is covered in lush foliage.

The rich volcanic soil and abundant rainfall ensure Saba is covered in lush foliage.

Saba bills itself as the “The Unspoiled Queen” of the Caribbean. Today tourism is the main industry, with about 25,000 visitors each year. Ecotourism is the main draw with hiking and diving the main activities.

Currency

US Dollar

The US Dollar.

The official currency of Saba is the US Dollar. ATMs are located in Windwardside.

Flag

Flag of Saba.

Flag of Saba.

The flag of Saba was adopted in 1985 from a design submitted by an 18-year old student, Edmond Daniel Johnson. The top of the flag is divided into two equal red triangles, while the bottom is divided into two equal blue triangles while the flag centre is a large white diamond with a golden (yellow) five-pointed star in the centre.

The star represents Saba, with the gold colour signifying that Saba is a precious possession and dear to the heart of all Sabans. The gold also symbolises the wealth of natural beauty to be found on Saba. The colours red, white and blue represent the historical and political ties between the Netherlands and the Netherlands Antilles, while the colour white also symbolises peace. Additionally, the colour red symbolises unity, courage and decisiveness, while blue represents the sea, which plays such an important part in the life of all Sabans.

Sightseeing

Windwardside

Windwardside is the second largest town (population: 418) on the island. It gets its name from being on the windward side of the island.

It’s a cute, quiet town where all the buildings are painted with the same uniform colours.  There’s no hustle and bustle, no traffic as most people walk and everyone seems to know everyone else. It’s a great base from which to explore the island.

A strict building code on Saba ensures all buildings, such as these cottages in Windwardside, are a uniform white, with green trim and red roofs.

A strict building code on Saba ensures all buildings, such as these cottages in Windwardside, are a uniform white, with green trim and red roofs.

Windwardside is the tourist centre on the island, where you will find a good selection of accommodation, restaurants, cafes, supermarkets etc. Its perched high up on the slopes of Mount Scenery with spectacular views in every direction of the Caribbean sea far below. The summit of Mount Scenery looms large above the town.

One ‘must-see’ site in town is the Harry L. Johnson museum. Housed in a former sea captains cottage (one of the first built on the island), the museum provides an insight into life on the island for the earlier generation of Sabans.

Through photos and informative displays, you’ll get an appreciation for how tough life was on the island. The caretaker of the museum – Jennifer – will happily provide you with a guided tour during which she’ll bring to life the history and stories of Saba. Highly recommended!

If you are in town on a Thursday, you can visit the Eugenius centre to watch elderly Saban ladies make Saba Lace. Lace making was once introduced to the island by a nun from Venezuela.

The town of Windwardside clings to the slopes of Mount Scenery.

The town of Windwardside clings to the slopes of Mount Scenery.

Around the Island

A white-throated hummingbird nesting outside my room in Windwardside.

A white-throated hummingbird nesting outside my room in Windwardside.

 

A nesting White-throated Hummingbird in Windwardside.

A nesting White-throated Hummingbird in Windwardside.

 

Hummingbird Eggs - about the size of a large pea.

Hummingbird Eggs – about the size of a large pea.

The Bottom

This is the capital and largest town on the island and depending on which hiking trail you choose you could end up here after one of your hikes. The town is very quiet, with some chickens and goats roaming the streets. It is home to the Saba Medical school, government offices, a few restaurants, shops, etc.

Hiking

There are many fine hiking trails on the island, some of which start in Windwardside. Before you hike you should visit the Trail Shop Saba, which is located in downtown Windwardside at the foot of the Mt. Scenery Trail. The friendly, enthusiastic staff will provide you with maps, information, tips and a whistle.

A scenic hike is the Sandy Cruz trail (150 minutes one way), which links the settlement of Upper Hells’ Gate with The Bottom. The hike takes you through orchards, cloud forest and secondary rain forest, offering spectacular views of the coast and neighbouring islands such as Sint Maarten, Statia, St. Kitts and Nevis.

A view from the 'Sandy Cruz' hiking trail.

A view from the ‘Sandy Cruz’ hiking trail.

Saba Beaches

If you are looking for the typical Caribbean island with sandy beaches and palm trees then Saba is not the island for you. There are no beaches on the island, except for a small patch of sand, which has been installed next to the airport.

The only beach on Saba is man-made.

The only beach on Saba is man-made.

Scuba Diving

Saba is known for it’s unique pinnacle dive sites, created when magma pushed up through the seafloor creating underwater towers of rock which soar up to around 26-m beneath the surface. Due to the unique underwater seascapes, diving on Saba is a unique experience.

There are 4 dive operators on the island. I chose to dive with Sea Saba, who i would recommend. They have an office in downtown Windwardside and provide transport to the port. Dives sites are a short distance from the port.

Currents can be strong but you are rewarded with abundant marine life and spectacular underwater scenery.

Jo Bean Glass Art Studio

Saba Travel Guide: Jo Bean giving instruction during her glass-bead making class.

Jo Bean giving instruction during her glass-bead making class.

For something different, you could join a half-day glass-bead making workshop, run by the bubbly and infectious Jo Bean. Jo will take you through the bead making process and then set you up with a torch and lots of thin rods of coloured glass so you can create your own works of art. If you don’t have time for the class you can always purchase something from her shop.

Jo is a native of the United States who has been a long-term resident on Saba. Her studio is located a short walk outside of Windwardside on Booby Hill. Highly recommended!

During the workshop I produced a selection of colourful beads which are pictured below. I was even able to make a replica of the famous ‘Statia Blue Bead’ (in the centre of the photo), a bead which is associated with the neighbouring island of Statia (click to read my Statia Travel Guide).

My colourful glass-beads which I produced during my workshop with Jo Bean.

My colourful glass-beads which I produced during my workshop with Jo Bean.

Accommodation

Accommodation on the island is limited, its best to book in advance using an online agent such as booking.com

Most accommodation is in Windwardside. I stayed in the centre of town at Juliana’s Hotel, which I would recommend. A hummingbird was nesting right outside my room.

Eating Out

Many ex-pats have settled on Saba and some of them have opened restaurants and cafes. There is a good range of restaurants in Windwardside, from fine dining to simple BBQ.

Located in the downtown shopping area is my favourite cafe, the Bizzy B Bakery. Their freshly baked bread is amazing as are the pastries, sandwiches and coffee. There is a nice outdoor seating area offering great views of Mount Scenery. 

The best BBQ on the island can be found downtown, opposite the Big Rock market at Swinging Doors. You enter this simple restaurant through the swinging saloon doors where you’ll be served the tastiest BBQ on the island. This is the restaurant that locals enthusiastically recommend – everything about this place is awesome.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Saba – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

Saba Travel Guide: This view of Saba airport, shortly after take-off, shows the perilous position of the short runway.

This view of Saba airport, shortly after take-off, shows the perilous position of the short runway.

Scary and exciting all at the same time! Saba’s airport is ranked as one of the worlds most dangerous.

Juancho E. Yrausquin Airport has the shortest commercial runway in the world at 400-m long. At the end of the runway are cliffs that plunge into the sea. On one side of the airport is a towering mountain. A most unlikely location for an airport but the only suitable location on this volcanic rock.

Only experienced Winair pilots can land here using special planes, STOL (Short Take-off and Landing). When you land you only break once. When you take off you only start climbing once you have flown off the end of the runway. No room for errors at this airport.

The airport is located at Flat Point, the only flat area on the island. The idea of an airport here was considered by many to be fanciful, including the government. However a determined Captain Remy F. de Haenen (from neighbouring St. Barths) assured the locals he would attempt a landing if they constructed a makeshift runway. And so, in February 1959, after the locals cleared the land by hand and graded it, he landed his small plane. His bravery and determination changed the island forever more.

Only one airline flies to this unique destination:

  • Winair – service to Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin

By Sea

A ferry service connects Saba with Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin three times a week. The 45-km journey takes one and a half hours. The service is operated by Saba Transport using the vessel Dawn II.

Getting Around

Saba has one main road, The Road, which consists of 16-km of narrow, windy, twisting, steep paved surface. Owing to the terrain, Dutch and Swiss engineers claimed a road was impossible to build on the island.

One local man, Josephus Lambert Hassellman, believed a road could be built. He took a correspondence course in engineering and, with the help of locals, started building a road across the island. It took 20 years to complete, mostly by hand.

There is no public transport on the island, however a few taxis are available. The drivers are a great source of information on island life, providing free guided tours as you travel and all the latest island gossip.

There are four car rental agencies on the island but hiring a car on such a small island is hard to justify. The island is compact enough and quiet enough that walking is the preferred option.

Around every corner is another amazing view.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

Saba Travel Guide Saba Travel Guide Saba Travel Guide Saba Travel Guide Saba Travel Guide Saba Travel Guide

Sint Eustatius Travel Guide

8 years ago
Darren McLean
Caribbean Travel Quiz; A panoramic view of Statia from a Winair flight.

Sint Eustatius (Statia) Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Statia Travel Guide!

Date Visited: May 2015

Introduction

St. Eustatius, or Statia is a quirky little place. Today it’s a tiny (32 km²), sleepy island with a small population (3,857), most of whom live in it’s capital – Oranjestad. The most dominant geographical feature on the island is the Quill (609-m), a dormant volcano.

A Dutch-era colonial building on Statia.

A Dutch-era colonial building on Statia.

Statia is off the well-beaten Caribbean tourist trail, if you are looking for the Caribbean of 40 years ago then this is the island for you.

Warehouse ruins on the Lower Town beach at Oranjestad

Warehouse ruins on the Lower Town beach at Oranjestad

The island was not always so quiet – it was once known as the trading centre of the world and used to attract thousands of merchant ships to its shores. It was also the first foreign power to recognise the independence of the United States of America. Since Columbus first landed on the island in 1493, it has changed hands at least 22 times among the British, French and Dutch. Today it is part of the Caribbean Netherlands.

Location

Caribbean Netherlands

The island lies in the northern Leeward Islands, 11-km northwest of St. Kitts, 11-km southeast of Saba (Dutch), south of St. Barths (French), Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin (Dutch/ French) and Anguilla (British).

The official language is Dutch but English is the language used for everyday life on the island with education also being in English.

Sunset from Oranjestad beach.

Sunset from Oranjestad beach.

History

The first inhabitants of Statia were the Saladoids, who arrived from South America.

Columbus was the first European to make landfall in 1493, during his 2nd voyage to the Americas. He named the island after San Eustaquio (Saint Eustace), a legendary Christian martyr.

Colonial-era building on Sint Eustatius.

Colonial-era building on Sint Eustatius.

In 1636, the Dutch West India Company took possession of the island. By 1678 the company also held control of neighbouring Saba and Sint Maarten. The company established more than 70 plantations on Statia and imported slaves from West Africa as a labour source. Payment for the slaves was made using the now famous Blue Bead – see ‘Statia Blue Bead‘ section below. Most of the inhabitants of the island today are descendants of former slaves.

Display in the St Eustatius Historical Foundation Museum in Oranjestad.

Display in the St Eustatius Historical Foundation Museum in Oranjestad.

Due to its “free port” status, its naturally deep harbour and perfect geographic location between Europe and America, Statia became one of the busiest ports in the world with thousands of merchant ships visiting. At the time the island supported a population of more than 20,000 people. It was at this time it earned the title, ‘The Golden Rock’.

Today the island is a clean, relaxed, unhurried, charming place. The locals are warm and friendly, you can walk most places and there is no crime.

Although Statia receives just a few thousand tourists each year, tourism is a key industry. Unlike its neighbours, the island is not known for its beaches, which are narrow and lined with grey volcanic sand. However the Eustatius National Marine Park, provides good diving from reefs to shipwrecks. Some divers even manage to find a blue bead – or the bead finds them. You can also hike to the top of the Quill.

Sint Eustatius (Statia) Travel Guide: Ruins of the Dutch Reformed church in Oranjestad which dates from 1755.

Ruins of the Dutch Reformed church in Oranjestad which dates from 1755.

While you are on the island you can not help but notice the number of super tankers docked offshore. The island is home to a huge oil storage facility, which currently contains 67 storage tanks with a capacity of more than 13-million barrels.

With a natural deep-water harbour and a central geographical location (half way between North and South America), Statia is an ideal place for such a trans-shipment facility.

Statia Blue Bead

A Statia Blue Bead.

A Statia Blue Bead.

Back in the 17th century the Dutch East India Company used blue beads to acquire slaves from West Africa, who then later used the beads as currency on the island, and even sometimes to buy their freedom.

The beads were also used for barter purposes, it is said the Dutch used 24 of these blue beads for the purchase of Manhattan Island from the native Americans.

The beads were manufactured in Amsterdam by a glass manufacturer between 1660 and 1680 and were shipped around the world by the boatload. Some of those boats were destined for Statia. It is believed one of these boats became shipwrecked off the island and today the seafloor is littered with these beads.

It is also said the slaves threw their beads into the sea when slavery ended.

Occasionally these beads wash up onto the beaches of the island. It is said that “you do not find a blue bead but it finds you” and that those who possess such a bead will always return to the island.

Flag

The flag of Statia flying alongside the Dutch flag.

The flag of Statia flying alongside the Dutch flag.

The flag of Statia features a blue field which is divided into four five-sided blue polygons. In the centre, within a white diamond, is a silhouette of the island in green with a five-pointed golden star.

Currency

US Dollar

The US Dollar.

The official currency of Statia is the US Dollar. ATMs are located in Oranjestad and at the airport, but can be unreliable; it’s best to bring cash, which is preferred by many establishments.

Sightseeing

Oranjestad

View of 'Lower town' from Fort Oranje.

View of ‘Lower town’ from Fort Oranje.

The only town on the island, this sleepy little capital is home to the majority of the population, sites and tourist infrastructure. The town is perched high on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean sea and is divided into the ‘Upper Town‘ and ‘Lower Town‘.

All sites of Oranjestad can be covered on foot in half a day. These include:

Fort Oranje

The historic Dutch-built Fort Oranje in Oranjestad.

The historic Dutch-built Fort Oranje in Oranjestad.

The first thing the Dutch did when they occupied St. Eustatius was to build a fort on a strategic corner of the cliff, overlooking the anchorage of Oranje Bay. This well preserved 17th century fort still retains its cannons and bastions and offers sweeping views along the west coast.

In its hey-day, the island sold arms and ammunition to anyone willing to pay. It was one of the few places from which the young United States could obtain military supplies during it’s revolution.

The good relationship between St. Eustatius and the United States resulted in the noted “First Salute” from Fort Oranje. A historical plaque from the “National Society, Daughters of the American Revolution” recognises the importance the fort played during the American revolution.

Dutch Reformed Church

The Dutch Reformed Church.

The Dutch Reformed Church.

Located next to Fort Oranje, consecrated in 1775, this church has been in ruins since it’s roof collapsed during a hurricane in 1792.

Synagogue Ruins

Built in 1738, this is the 2nd oldest synagogue in the Western Hemisphere. “Honen Dalim”, which means ‘She Who Is Kind to the Poor’, was constructed as a place of worship for the influx of Jewish merchants who lived on the island when it was a major trading centre. A Jewish cemetery is located 50-m from the synagogue.

Government Guesthouse

Originally used as a Government guesthouse, this 18th century stone and wood building was completely renovated in the 1990’s and now houses government offices, including the offices of the lieutenant governor.

The St. Eustatius Historical Foundation

The St. Eustatius Historical Foundation Museum.

The St. Eustatius Historical Foundation Museum.

 

This museum provides an overview of the island’s history, from the pre-Colombian era to the present.

Displays at the St. Eustatius Historical Foundation Museum.

Displays at the St. Eustatius Historical Foundation Museum.

Lower Town Beach

Statia is not known for it’s beaches but the grey-sand beach in Lower Town provides snorkeling among the 18th-century ruins of a breakwater and warehouses. The beach is open and exposed to swells so snorkeling is not always possible.  Lining the beach are the ruins of warehouses used in the days when the island was a major trading centre.

Sint Eustatius (Statia) Travel Guide: Warehouse ruins on the Lower Town beach at Oranjestad

Warehouse ruins on the Lower Town beach at Oranjestad.

Accommodation

Accommodation is limited on the island, best to book in advance using an online agent such as booking.com

I stayed at the Golden Era Hotel, which is located directly on the Caribbean sea below the fort. The rooms here are tired and in need of renovation and overpriced but on this island, with limited options, you cannot afford to be picky.

The best hotel on the island is the Old Gin House, located next door to the Golden Era Hotel.

Eating Out

Statia is not blessed with any fine dining restaurants but the best in town is the Blue Bead Bar & Restaurant. This Italian restaurant does the best pizza on the island and the front porch is a great place to sit and watch the sunset.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Statia – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

The only airport on tiny Statia is F. D. Roosevelt Airport. Like the island, the airport is all very quirky. The tiny terminal is never busy, there are no queues, just a single room where you wait for your flight. When you arrive your luggage will be handed to you through a hole in the wall.

Immediately upon exiting you will find yourself on a sleepy suburban street. Maybe one of the 3 taxis on the island will be on the rank, if not you can ask airport staff to call one for you. Walking into town is totally do-able, a distance of 1-km.

The following airline provides international connections:

By Sea

There was a ferry service previously operating between St. Martin and Statia but that is currently suspended.

The only other way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

Getting Around

A Statia License Plate.

A Statia License Plate.

There is no public transport on the island. A few taxis are available but should be booked in advance. If you take a taxi from the airport to your downtown hotel you should arrange for the same driver to take you back to the airport when you depart. Taxis are not metered but have fixed prices.

Car Rental is available, however the island is small enough that you can walk most places.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Sint Eustatius (Statia) Travel Guide Sint Eustatius (Statia) Travel Guide Sint Eustatius (Statia) Travel Guide Sint Eustatius (Statia) Travel Guide Sint Eustatius (Statia) Travel Guide Sint Eustatius (Statia) Travel Guide

Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide

8 years ago
Darren McLean
Colourful batik from 'Caribelle Batik'.

Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

The Federation of Saint Kitts and Nevis is a two-island country. It’s part of the Leeward Islands, which are a part of the Lesser Antilles.

It’s located southeast of the islands of Sint Eustatius (Dutch), Saba (Dutch) and south of the islands of Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin (Dutch/ French), Saint Barthélemy (French) and Anguilla (British). It’s located west of Antigua & Barbuda and northeast of Montserrat (British).

Location

Saint Kitts and Nevis

Saint Kitts and Nevis

It’s the smallest sovereign state in the Americas, in terms of area (270 square km) and population (54,000). The population is mostly comprised of Afro-Caribbean’s who are descendants from former slaves.

Despite its small size, St. Kitts has played a big part in the European settlement of the Caribbean.

Vervet monkeys were introduced to St. Kitts from Africa more 300 years ago.

Vervet monkeys were introduced to St. Kitts from Africa more 300 years ago.

History

A view from Brimstone Hill fortress on St. Kitts.

A view from Brimstone Hill fortress on St. Kitts.

The first settlers to arrive on the islands (3,000 B.C) were an archaic people from Florida (USA). As with every other island in the region, they were eventually replaced by the peaceful Arawak’s, who migrated north from present day Venezuela. The Arawak’s were replaced by the more aggressive Caribs. It was the Caribs whom the Europeans met when they first arrived.

Saint Kitts and Nevis were among the first islands in the Caribbean to be settled by Europeans. The first European to make landfall in 1493 was – no surprise – Columbus during his second voyage to the Americas.

Columbus originally named the island Sant Jago (St. James) but early Spanish explorers confused the island with neighbouring Saba, then labelled on maps as ‘San Cristobal’ or Saint Christopher. The name has stuck ever since.

In the 17th century, a common British nickname for Christopher was Kit, or Kitt. The British used this name for the island and it remains in use today.

The Spanish never settled on St. Kitts, instead the first Europeans to settle on the island were French Huguenots in 1538. The Spanish were not happy with the French move so they eventually returned and destroyed the settlement, expelling its inhabitants.

The British settled on the island in 1623. The French then returned and an arrangement was made between the two, whereby the British would control the centre of St. Kitts and the French would control either ends of the island. Saint Kitts was home to the first British and French colonies in the Caribbean.

The British used St. Kitts as their base to settle the islands of Antigua, Montserrat, Anguilla and Tortola (British Virgin Islands).

The French used St. Kitts as their base to settle the islands of Martinique, Guadeloupe and Saint Barthélemy. The French established Basseterre as their capital on St. Kitts and later designated it as the capital for the entire French West Indies.

During the 17th century the British and French continuously battled each other for control of the island. After a decisive British victory over the French at Brimstone Hill in 1782, the French ceded the island to Britain. The British maintained control until independence in 1983.

A golden sunset, South Friars beach on St. Kitts.

A golden sunset, South Friars beach on St. Kitts.

Historically St. Kitts and Nevis (despite being separated by a narrow channel) were always governed as separate independent entities until they were forced into a union in the 19th century by Britain.

Rivalries still remain today with Nevis accusing St. Kitts of neglect. In past referendums a majority of Nevians voted for secession from the federation, but they have never reached the 2/3 majority mark which would allow this to happen.

Eastern Caribbean Central Bank

The Eastern Caribbean Dollar.

The Eastern Caribbean Dollar.

The official currency of St. Kitts and Nevis is the Eastern Caribbean dollar.

Headquartered in Basseterre, the Eastern Caribbean Central Bank (ECCB) is the monetary authority for the following Caribbean nations:

  • Antigua & Barbuda
  • Grenada
  • St. Kitts & Nevis
  • Dominica
  • St. Lucia
  • St. Vincent and the Grenadines

and the following British overseas territories:

  • Anguilla
  • Montserrat

The bank was founded in 1983 in order to maintain the stability of the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$) and the integrity of the banking system of the member states.

The bank issues the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$), which is the currency of the member states. Since 1976, the exchange rate has been pegged to the US$ at a rate of US$1 = EC$2.70.

Flag

Saint Kitts and Nevis Flag

Saint Kitts and Nevis Flag

The flag of Saint Kitts and Nevis consists of a yellow-edged black band containing two white stars that divides diagonally from the lower hoist-side corner, with a green upper triangle and red lower triangle.

Designed in the early 80’s by a student, Edris Lewis, the colour green alludes to the country’s fertile land, while the red evokes the fight for freedom against slavery and colonialism. The yellow stripes represent ‘sunshine’, while the black epitomises the people’s African origins and the two white stars symbolise hope and liberty.

Sightseeing

St. Kitts – Basseterre

A view of Basseterre from my Winair flight to St. Martin.

A view of Basseterre from my Winair flight to St. Martin.

The capital and largest city (population: 13,000) of St. Kitts & Nevis, Basseterre is a port city located in a valley surrounded by mountains. Founded in 1627 by the French, it is one of the oldest towns in the Eastern Caribbean. The French named it ‘Basseterre’  (low land) due to its valley setting. It served as the capital of the French colony of Saint-Christophe, which consisted of the northern and southern extremities of the island of St. Kitts. At this time Britain controlled the central portion of the island. At one point Basseterre was made the capital of the entire French West Indies, which included the islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique.

In 1727 the British took full control of the island and Basseterre was made capital of the entire island. Basseterre today is the home of the headquarters of the Eastern Caribbean Central Bank and a financial centre for the region. The city centre is compact and most sites can be covered on foot in a day.

Sites include:

Independence Square

Once the site of a slave market, the square was renamed when the island achieved independence from Britain. Today the square is a tranquil oasis in the bustling city centre.

The Circus

Named after London's Piccadilly circus, 'The Circus' is the centre of Basseterre.

Named after London’s Piccadilly circus, ‘The Circus’ is the centre of Basseterre.

The landmark in Basseterre, the Circus is a round-about with an ornate clock tower at its centre. The cafes overlooking the Circus are a good place to sit and relax and watch the world go by.

St. George’s Anglican Church

The historic St. George's Anglican Church in Basseterre.

The historic St. George’s Anglican Church in Basseterre.

The French built the first church on this site in 1670. This was later destroyed by the British. Since then a number of churches have been built but have been destroyed by either fire, earthquakes or hurricanes. The current church was consecrated in 1859.

Co-Cathedral of Immaculate Conception

One of the tallest structures in Basseterre. Worth 5 minutes of your time.

National Museum

Housed in the old treasury building, this small museum contains an interesting collection of exhibits explaining the history of the island.

My favourite cafe downtown is the Gallery Cafe. The cafe is housed in a beautiful old wooden building on the north side of Independence square. The cafe is owned by Leah – a friendly and enthusiastic British expat. The coffee here is very good as is the food. There are artworks from local artists available for purchase.

St. Kitts – Around the Island

If you drive in a clockwise direction around the island from Basseterre, you will cover the following sites in the same order.

Bloody Point

On the road to Romney Manor you will pass Bloody Point. This was the sight of the Carib massacre of 1626.

The Caribs were afraid that the number of European settlers on the island was increasing so they devised a plan to massacre them. The British were told in advance of the plan and together with the French decided to strike first.

They launched a surprise attack, massacring around 3,000 natives, enough that the river here was said to flow red with blood for 3 days after the massacre, hence the name. The site of the massacre is marked with a simple white cross.

Romney Manor

The 400-year-old Saman tree at Romney Manor.

The 350-year-old Saman tree at Romney Manor.

Owned and managed over the centuries by successive Earls of Romney, this 17th-century sugar estate once belonged to the great-great-great-grandfather of Thomas Jefferson (3rd President of USA).

It is believed that Tegereman, the Carib Indian Chief, once had his village on this site.

The manor sits on a hill in among lush gardens with panoramic views over the sea. The entrance to the manor is dominated by a huge 350-year-old Saman tree. On the way up to the manor you can visit the ruins of the old sugar mill.

The manor is now the home of Caribelle Batik, which sells handmade batik wraps, dresses and other items.

Colourful batik drying at 'Caribelle Batik' whose workshop is located at Romney Manor.

Colourful batik drying at ‘Caribelle Batik’ whose workshop is located at Romney Manor.

Brimstone Hill Fortress

Set on an impressive hill at an elevation of 243-m overlooking the Caribbean sea, Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the site of one of the most impressive forts in the Caribbean.

Begun in the 1690’s, the fort was built over a period of 100 years by British military engineers using slave labour. The entire fortress has been constructed using the hard volcanic rock of which the hill is composed.

View of St. Kitts from Brimstone Hill fortress with the Dutch island of Statia in the background.

View of St. Kitts from Brimstone Hill fortress with the Dutch island of Statia in the background.

From the fort you have panoramic views of the coastline of St. Kitts, the Caribbean sea, the township of Sandy Point, and the neighbouring Dutch island of Statia.

St. Johns Anglican Church at Belle Vue on the north coast of St. Kitts.

St. Johns Anglican Church at Belle Vue on the north coast of St. Kitts.

Dieppe Bay Town

Settled in 1538, Dieppe Bay Town is the oldest town founded by Europeans in the Eastern Caribbean. The Atlantic ocean and Caribbean sea converge here. There is good snorkeling just offshore.

Ottley’s Plantation Inn

This restored 18th-century sugar plantation is now a luxury inn and is located on a hill overlooking the east (Atlantic) coast of the island, 13-km from Basseterre.

The inn is set among lush gardens and provides access to a small rain forest where you can see vervet monkeys. The restaurant is especially good for lunch – see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more details.

South of Basseterre

A view of the isthmus and peninsula at the southern end of St. Kitts.

A view of the isthmus and peninsula at the southern end of St. Kitts. Nevis peak is in the distance.

South of Basseterre, lies a thin isthmus, which joins the main part of the island to a peninsula. Here you will find the best beaches on the island. Many of these beaches are currently secluded but development is underway with giant resorts being constructed or in the planning stages.

Most of the beach at Kittian Village is occupied by the sprawling Marriott resort but is fully accessible to the public. The sand on this side of the isthmus is golden yellow. 

Across on the opposite side of the isthmus lies Frigate Bay, which is actually two bays located close together. The sand on this side of the isthmus is grey. Frigate bay is popular with Basseterre locals, with a number of beach bars and restaurants offering drinks and dinner.

Further south is South Friars Bay, another grey-sand beach. The highlight here is sunset drinks at the Ship Wreck Beach Bar and Grill – (See the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more details). There is good snorkeling just offshore.

Added entertainment is provided by some wild vervet monkeys and ferrets who are fed scraps from the restaurant kitchen.

A view of South Friars beach on St Kitts.

A view of South Friars beach on St Kitts.

Further south is the upscale development of Christophe Harbour, which includes a marina and an expensive waterfront bar – Salt Plage. For those who like to sip ‘signature’ cocktails while watching the sunset.

A new luxury Hyatt resort is scheduled to open in 2016 at Banana Bay, which is located at the end of the peninsula, overlooking the ‘narrows’ and Nevis.

A sea gull on St. Kitts.

A sea gull on St. Kitts.

Nevis – Charlestown

At 93 square kilometres, Nevis is small. There is a single road which follows the coast around the island, which could be driven in under two hours. Nevis lies just 3-km across a shallow channel from St. Kitts. The channel is known as “The Narrows”. Regular ferries connect the two islands.

The sea-bridge ferry connects St. Kitts to Nevis (background).

The sea-bridge ferry connects St. Kitts to Nevis (background).

The island was formed by a now dormant volcano – Nevis Peak, which lies at the centre of the island.

Like St. Kitts, the beaches on the island are composed of a mixture of white coral sand mixed with brown and black sand, which is eroded and washed down from the volcanic rocks that make up the island.

The name, Nevis, is derived from the Spanish, Nuestra Señora de las Nieves, so named because the white cloud that usually covers the top of Nevis Peak reminded the Spaniards of the ancient Catholic miracle ‘Our Lady of the Snows’.

Horatio Nelson was once stationed on Nevis, he met and married a Nevisian, Frances Nisbet, the young widow of a plantation-owner.

The island has a population 12,000, mostly descendants of former African slaves.

Charlestown is the capital and largest city (population: 1,538) of Nevis. Frequent ferries connect Charlestown with Basseterre – see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below for more details. There is not much to see in this tiny village but it is a nice place to meander for an hour or two.

Charlestown was the birth place of Alexander Hamilton – who would later become a chief aide to General George Washington and was one of the founding fathers of the United States of America.

Sites to see:

Museum of Nevis

This museum provides an overview of the history of Nevis. The birthplace of Alexander Hamilton is next door.

Memorial Square

Memorial Square in Charlestown, the charming capital of Nevis.

Memorial Square in Charlestown, the charming capital of Nevis.

A nice shady square where you can relax and watch the world go by. The square is lined with beautiful old stone colonial buildings, including the courthouse and library.

Market Place

A small covered market where you can purchase local produce.

Nevis – Around the Island

Like St. Kitts, there is one road which follows the coast around this circular island. It’s impossible to get lost. If you drive without stopping you could see the entire island in under 2 hours.

Driving in a clockwise direction from Charlestown, you will pass:

Pinney’s Beach

Directly north of Charlestown, this is a nice sandy stretch of beach on the protected leeward (Caribbean) side of the island. Its a popular beach and can get busy.

Cades Bay

This quiet bay, which has a beautiful beach, is the terminal for the Seabridge vehicle ferry.

On the main road you will find Mansa’s Last Stop, a corner store, which stocks local produce. It is owned by Mervin “Mansa” Tyson, who is passionate about his fruits and vegetables, which he grows himself.

Lovers Beach

At the top of the island you will find this picture postcard beach of white sand and turquoise waters.

Vance W. Amory International Airport

Nevis’s international airport is located at the top of the island – see the ‘Getting There‘ section for more details.

Newcastle

In the village of Newcastle you will find Newcastle Pottery, where local artisans create unique pieces using generations-old techniques. A red clay, which is native to the island, is used to produce each hand-worked piece – there are no pottery wheels in use here.

Golden Rock Inn

The beautiful garden at the Golden Rock Inn on Nevis.

The beautiful garden at the Golden Rock Inn on Nevis.

Located just beyond the village of Mannings, as the road sweeps away from the coast, you will find the Golden Rock Inn. The beauty and serenity of this place is magical. If you are on the island, you simply have to visit.

The inn is located on a hill with panoramic views of the Atlantic coast and ocean. It’s surrounded by lush gardens and the ruins of an old sugar mill. You should time your visit during a mealtime, the food in the restaurant is divine. For more on the restaurant see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below.

The garden at the Golden Rock Inn on Nevis.

The garden at the Golden Rock Inn on Nevis.

Accommodation

There are lots of options on both St. Kitts and Nevis. I stayed on St Kitts at the Royal St. Kitts Hotel, which is located in the Kittian Village neighbourhood. This neighbourhood is ideal as it offers easy access to Basseterre (10 min drive), to the beaches at the southern end of the island and all the bars, cafes and restaurants in the village.

Best to book in advance using booking.com

Eating Out

Agriculture on both islands is abundant due to the rich volcanic soil. Local produce can be purchased at the markets in Basseterre or Charlestown.

Restaurant menus feature typical West Indian classics such as goat stew, which includes breadfruit and green papaya in a tomato-based stew. Seafood is also abundant.

St. Kitts

On St. Kitts, the restaurant at Ottley’s Plantation Inn serves up gourmet cuisine all within the old stone walls of the former sugar factory. Its an ideal place to stop for lunch if you are exploring the island. The plantation is located off the main road, on the east coast, in the town of Ottley, 13-km from Basseterre.

South of Basseterre is the tourist enclave of Kittian Village (home to the sprawling Marriott resort). Here you will find restaurants, bars and cafes. The best coffee in this neighbourhood is served at the Rituals cafe on the main road.

Nearby is Frigate bay, a nice sandy beach which is lined with beach bars and restaurants. Its especially lively in the evenings.

Further south on South Friars bay is the Ship Wreck Beach Bar and Grill. This place has a rustic ‘shipwrecked’ feel to it, with furniture made from bits of driftwood and other items found on the beach. This is an ideal place to watch the sunset while enjoying a happy-hour rum punch. There is a grey sand beach here and an offshore reef for snorkeling.

Nevis

For a memorable lunch on Nevis, it is hard to beat ‘The Rocks‘ restaurant, which is at the Golden Rock Inn. Everything at the inn, from the rooms, the garden and the food has been carefully considered. If you are looking for a special dining experience this is the place.

Located on the slopes of Nevis peak, 5-km from Charlestown, the restaurant serves Caribbean cuisine in a beautiful outdoor garden setting. The seafood is purchased from local fisherman, the produce from local farmers. The meals are full of flavour and the fresh fruit juices are divine. Its open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Highly recommended.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for St. Kitts & Nevis – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

View of the north coast of St. Kitts from my Winair flight to St. Martin.

View of the north coast of St. Kitts from my Winair flight to St. Martin.

By Air

St. Kitts

International flights to St. Kitts arrive at Robert L. Bradshaw International Airport, located on the northeast outskirts of Basseterre.

The following airlines provide international connections to Robert L. Bradshaw International Airport:

Nevis

International flights to Nevis arrive at Vance W. Amory International Airport, which is located in the northeast of the island, west of the village of Newcastle.

The following airlines provide international connections to Vance W. Amory International Airport:

 

By Sea

Despite the fact that the neighbouring Dutch territory of Statia is just 11 km from the nearest point on St. Kitts – and clearly visible across the sea – there are no international ferry services linking St. Kitts and Nevis to any other island.

The only other way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

Getting Around

Inter-Island Ferries

The Seabridge ferry from St. Kitts to Nevis.

The Seabridge ferry from St. Kitts to Nevis.

There are frequent ferries, which make the short crossing across ‘the narrows’ between St. Kitts and Nevis. There is a vehicle ferry, which sails six times a day between St. Kitts (Mayors Bay) and Nevis (Cades Bay).

The 5-km crossing takes 15 minutes with the service operated by Seabridge Inc. The departure and arrival ports for this service are remote and taxis are not available. You should only use this ferry if you are travelling by car. Foot passengers should use the more convenient passenger ferry services, which sail between downtown Basseterre and downtown Charlestown.

A number of frequent passenger ferries operate between St. Kitts (Basseterre) and Nevis (Charlestown). Crossing time for the 12-km journey is between 30 to 45 minutes. Check the SKN Vibes website for all current ferry schedules.

Water taxis between the two islands are also available on demand.

Public Transport

The public transportation system on St. Kitts and Nevis is made up of privately owned mini-buses, which run according to demand and not a timetable. Buses stop and drop-off where ever required. Buses can be identified by their green license plates, which are all prefixed with a ‘H‘ or ‘HA‘.

Taxis

Taxis are available on both islands. You can identify them by their yellow license plates, which are all prefixed with a ‘T‘ or ‘TA‘.

Rental Car

Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide: A rental car is the best way to maximise your time on both St Kitts and Nevis.

A rental car is the best way to maximise your time on both St Kitts and Nevis.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. As with other Anglo-Caribbean countries, the government of St. Kitts and Nevis raises revenue by requiring anyone hiring a car to hold a temporary driving permit. This can be purchased at the car rental agency.

As with other Anglo-Caribbean islands, road signage is almost non-existent but there is just one road around the coastline of each island so its impossible to get lost.

At the time of my visit the government had a major road re-surfacing project underway on St. Kitts.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide Saint Kitts & Nevis Travel Guide

Antigua Travel Guide

8 years ago
Darren McLean
English naval flags at Nelson's Dockyard, Antigua.

Antigua Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Antigua Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Antigua is one of the two islands, which comprise the sovereign nation of Antigua & Barbuda. The islands lie 30-km apart. Barbuda is not covered in this post as it was not visited.

Artist studio in English harbour, Antigua.

Artist studio in English harbour, Antigua.

Antigua is part of the Leeward Islands, which are a part of the Lesser Antilles lying north of Guadeloupe, north-east of Montserrat and east of St. Kitts & Nevis.

Location

Antigua and Barbuda

The islands of Antigua and Barbuda are located in the Lesser Antilles, in the eastern Caribbean Sea, at the southern end of the Leeward Islands chain. The two islands lie 63 km (39 mi) apart and are connected by a daily ferry service.

Antigua is generally a low-lying island, essentially a large chunk of exposed limestone sea bed. In the south-west is a volcanic section, here you will find a few peaks and intense agriculture in the rich volcanic soil. The islands highest peak is located here – it was recently renamed Obama Peak (402-m).

All this limestone ensures lots of white sandy beaches and turquoise waters. The islands are rimmed by coral reefs. The flat terrain ensures little rainfall and there are few rivers or streams on the island. Most of the terrain is dry and arid, cacti are a common feature. Both islands lack adequate amounts of fresh groundwater.

History

For millennia the islands were inhabited by a succession of native Indian tribes, first the Ciboney (or Siboney), who migrated from present day Cuba, then the Arawak, who migrated from Venezuela then the more aggressive Caribs.

Antigua and Barbuda Flag

Antigua and Barbuda Flag

The Arawak introduced agriculture to the island, including the first pineapples, which would eventually evolve into today’s famous Antigua black pineapple (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below). Antigua was originally called Wa’ladli by the Arawak Indians and is still called this today by the locals.

Telephone Booth, Dickenson Bay, Antigua.

Dickenson Bay is a popular beach and home to the Sandals Grande Antigua resort.

Everything changed in 1493 when Christopher Columbus discovered the island. He named it Antigua in honour of La Virgen de la Antigua housed in the Seville Cathedral in Spain. When Columbus arrived he found a lack of fresh water but no lack of aggressive Caribs, hence the island was never settled by the Spaniards.

The islands were neglected by the early European colonisers but in 1632 the British established a settlement at St. John’s. In 1685 Barbuda was leased to brothers John and Christopher Codrington who ran the island as a private estate and used it as a nursery for slaves who worked on their sugar plantations on Antigua. The capital of Barbuda today is ‘Codrington’.

Turks Head Cactus on Antigua.

Turks Head Cactus on Antigua.

Like almost everywhere else in the region, the British established sugar plantations on the island and imported slaves from Africa as a labour source. Today the population of 89,000 is mostly (91%) Afro-Caribbean, descendants of the former slaves.

In 1981, the islands were granted independence as the modern state of Antigua and Barbuda.

The national flower of Antigua & Barbuda - The Dagger Log.

The national flower of Antigua & Barbuda, the Dagger Log, is an Agave plant.

Economically, tourism is now the main game on the island. Off-shore banking is another important industry.

Sightseeing

St. John’s

Colourful souvenir at an artist's studio in English harbour.

Colourful souvenir at an artist’s studio in English harbour.

St. John’s is the capital and largest city (population: 22,000) of Antigua & Barbuda. The city has been the administrative centre of Antigua and Barbuda since the islands were first colonised in 1632. Today it is the seat of government.

Antigua is a centre for offshore banking, many international banks have offices in the city. St. John’s is a little more developed and cosmopolitan compared to other cities in the region.

There is a large modern cruise ship terminal in the city centre, which can cater for up to four ships. Around 50% of visitors to the island are day-tripping cruise ship passengers.

Attached to the terminal are two modern shopping malls, Heritage Quay and Redcliffe Quay. These offer the usual assortment of tourist shops.

The city centre is small and compact and all sites can easily be covered in a day.

Sites include:

  • St. Johns Cathedral – The main landmark in the city, the present cathedral was built on a fossilised reef in 1845. It is the third cathedral to occupy the site, the previous two being destroyed by earthquakes. The original cathedral (a wooden structure) was consecrated in 1681.
The Museum of Antigua & Barbuda in St. Johns.

The Museum of Antigua & Barbuda in St. Johns.

  • Museum of Antigua & Barbuda – The museum provides an overview of the history and culture of Antigua & Barbuda. It covers an array of subjects and offers an eclectic mix of displays, from a model Arawak dwelling to Viv Richard’s (the islands’ greatest cricket player) cricket bat.
  • Market – located on the southwestern edge of the city, this bustling market is the place to purchase your black pineapple (see the ‘Eating Out’ section below) and all other local produce
Sunset from Fort James.

Sunset from Fort James.

  • Fort James – on the outskirts of the city, the fort is located at the entrance to the harbour of St. John’s. The British, fearing a French invasion, constructed the fort in order to protect the harbour in the 18th century. This is a great place to watch the sunset over the Caribbean sea.

A reasonable place for either breakfast, lunch or dinner in downtown St. John’s is the Hemingway Caribbean Cafe. This cafe is a local institution and is housed upstairs in an historic wooden West Indian styled building on St. Mary’s street. Service and food can be hit or miss.

Around the Island

Nelsons Dockyard

Remnants of the former Nelson's dockyard.

Remnants of the former Nelson’s dockyard at English harbour.

Nelson’s Dockyard is located in English Harbour on the south side of the island. The dockyard is named after Admiral Horatio Nelson, who lived here from 1784 to 1787.

The British established a naval base here in the early 18th century as it was ideal to monitor French activities on neighbouring Guadeloupe. The harbour also proved to be a safe haven in the event of hurricanes. Most of the buildings on the site were built using slave labour from neighbouring plantations.

Souvenir shopping in English Harbour, Antigua.

Souvenir shopping in English Harbour, Antigua.

In 1889 the Royal Navy abandoned the Dockyard and it fell into decay. It was restored in the 1950’s.

Today it is one of the most popular attractions on the island, offering a marina, museums, shops, cafes, restaurants etc. It is also home to Antigua Sailing week (see below).

English naval flags at Nelson's Dockyard.

English naval flags at Nelson’s Dockyard.

One of the main sites at the Dockyard is the museum. It was originally built in 1855 and served as an officers’ quarters in the Royal Navy Dockyard. It was restored in the 1970’s and opened as a museum in 1997.

Today the museum presents the history of Nelson’s Dockyard and includes information on the interesting, and scandalous, personal life of the Admiral.

Antigua Travel Guide: Museum at Nelson's Dockyard.

Museum at Nelson’s Dockyard.

Sailing Week

Sailing Boat, Antigua.

Antigua has established itself as a premier sailing destination.

The last week of April brings sailors from around the world for Sailing Week. It’s one of the top five regattas in the world and the centre of the action is Nelson’s Dockyard.

During the regatta there is lots of action on the water and lots of apres action around Nelson’s Dockyard, including nightly concerts on a main stage, live bands in various other venues and nightly food markets showcasing Antiguan cuisine.

I was fortunate to be staying on the island during sailing week in 2015. It’s a great party.

Shirley Heights

View of the south coast towards English harbour from Shirley Heights

View of the south coast towards English harbour from Shirley Heights

Shirley Heights is an old British naval lookout post. It is located on the south coast of the island and at an elevation of 150-m, offering panoramic views of English harbour, the coast and beyond. From here the British could keep an eye on the French on neighbouring Guadeloupe.

It is ‘the’ place to watch the sunset and on Sunday afternoons (from 4pm) you can enjoy a BBQ with a steel band. There are many old military buildings, which have been restored and can be visited.

The whole complex is located inside a national park so you need to pay to enter. Entrance to the park and fort is on an access road beyond English harbour.

Devil’s Bridge

Devil's Bridge on Antigua

Devil’s Bridge, a natural stone bridge on Antigua.

Situated at the end of a rocky road on a barren, wind-swept peninsula in the far north-west of the island is a natural limestone bridge known as Devil’s bridge. The bridge gets it’s name from the fact that it was a favourite place for slaves to commit suicide, and no jumper ever survived the rough surf so locals believed the devil lived here. You can walk across on a calm day but you should never attempt a crossing on a windy, rough day (most days). You can reach the bridge after passing the Verandah Resort & Spa beyond the town of Wilikies.

Located a short drive north of St. Johns, beautiful Dickenson Bay offers more powdery white-sand beaches, turquoise water and lots of accommodation options, including the mega-size Sandals Grande Antigua resort.

Antigua Travel Guide: Sunset at Dickenson Bay.

Sunset at Dickenson Bay.

Betty’s Hope

Antigua Travel Guide: Old windmill at Betty's Hope Plantation

Old windmill at Betty’s Hope Plantation

Betty’s Hope is a former sugar plantation and is synonymous with the history of Antigua.

The plantation was first established in the early 1650s by a British Governor. After his death his wife inherited the plantation, however she abandoned it during the French occupation (1666). After the British recaptured the island in 1674 they awarded the estate to the Codrington family. This was the first sugar plantation for the family, who eventually owned 150 plantations on the island and established farming on neighbouring Barbuda. Most of the work was performed by slave labour imported from Africa.

Today one of the two windmills has been fully restored and you can visit an interpretation centre, which provides an overview of the sugar industry on the island.

Betty’s Hope is located along a dusty track just off Pares Village Main road beyond the town of Pares in the east of the island.

Antigua Beaches

A view of Half Moon Bay, Antigua.

A view of Half Moon Bay, Antigua.

As the tourist brochures proudly boast – “There are 365 beaches on Antigua – one for each day of the year”. 

No matter which coast you are on, you will be be spoiled for choice.  Although partly volcanic in origin, most of Antigua is raised limestone seabed which means lots of powdery white sand and turquoise waters. There are no shortage of beautiful beaches on this little island.

Half Moon Bay

Raking Sargassum seaweed off Half Moon Bay.

Raking Sargassum seaweed off Half Moon Bay.

Located in the far east of the island is this remote beach. It is well worth the drive. You will be rewarded with crystal clear water, gentle waves and good snorkeling. Depending on the tide there can be a lot of seaweed either in the water or on the beach.

There is a small beach side kiosk serving snacks but not much else. It’s all wonderfully quiet and under-developed.

Long Bay

Located in St. Phillip parish in the far east, this beautiful beach offers lots of white powdery sand, calm waters and a reef with very good snorkeling just offshore (eastern end). There is a restaurant here, which serves lunch.

Accommodation

There is a variety of accommodation to suit all budgets around the coast of Antigua, from large scale all-inclusive resorts to privately owned B&B’s. The interior of the island is flat, dry and barren and of little interest to tourists.

If you want easy access to cafes, restaurants, bars etc, the best location is around English Harbour in the south.

I stayed at Villa Touloulou, which offers nice apartments on a hillside overlooking English Harbour – highly recommended. I booked this on booking.com

The capital, St. Johns, is not too attractive but is a good location for those without their own transport.

Eating Out

The national dish of Antigua is fungie (pronounced “foon-jee”), it’s a dish that’s similar to Italian Polenta, but made from cornmeal.

As with the other Anglo-Caribbean Islands, Chinese and Indian cuisine is also available. Jamaican jerk is also popular on the island and a great place to try this is at one of the nightly food stands at English Harbour.

Hemingway's Cafe, St. Johns, Antigua.

The charming Hemingway’s Caribbean Cafe in St. Johns.

A wonderful dining option in downtown St. Johns is Hemingway’s Caribbean Cafe which is located upstairs in a charming colonial-era wooden building on St. Mays street (opposite Heritage quay). I like to dine outside on the breezy verandah which overlooks the hustle and bustle below. The menu features Caribbean and International dishes and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Especially recommended are the freshly squeezed local juices – my favourite is Sour sop.

One of my favourite restaurants for either breakfast, lunch or dinner is Rum Baba. This Mediterranean bistro is located opposite the entrance to Falmouth Harbour Marina. The food here is exceptional but everyone knows it so you need to book early to reserve one of the few precious tables.

Antigua Black Pineapples

Said to be the sweetest pineapples in the world. It’s believed the native Arawak Indians brought the first pineapples to Antigua from South America more than 1,000 years ago. Over the years these pineapples adopted a distinctive flavour from Antigua’s unique environment, a combination of the soil, not too much rainfall and lots of sunshine.

You can find these ‘sweeties’ at road-side stands around Carlisle bay or in the central market in St. Johns.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Antigua & Barbuda – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

All flights to Antigua & Barbuda arrive at V. C. Bird International Airport, which is located 8-km northeast of St. Johns. The airport was originally built as a US Air Force base. A brand new, modern terminal (with 4 air bridges) opened in August 2015.

This airport serves as a base for LIAT  – an airline with a terrible service record but unfortunately a monopoly on many regional routes.

The following airlines provide international connections:

  • Air Canada – services to Toronto (Pearson)
  • Alitalia Charter: – services to Milan–Malpensa
  • American Airlines – services to Miami, New York (JFK)
  • Blue Panorama Charter: – services to Milan–Malpensa (resumes 13 July 2016)
  • British Airways – services to London (Gatwick), Turks & Caicos (Providenciales), Saint Kitts, Tobago
  • Caribbean Airlines – services to Kingston, Port of Spain
  • JetBlue Airways – services to New York (JFK)
  • LIAT – services to Anguilla, Barbados, Dominica (Douglas/Charles), Pointe-à-Pitre, Port of Spain, San Juan, St. Croix, Santo Domingo, St. Kitts, St. Lucia (Vigie), St. Maarten, St. Thomas, St. Vincent, Tortola
  • PAWA Dominicana – services to Santo Domingo, St. Maarten
  • United Airlines – services to Newark
  • Virgin Atlantic – services to London (Gatwick)
  • WestJet – services to Toronto (Pearson)

By Sea

There is one international ferry service currently operating between Antigua and neighbouring Montserrat. For schedules and fares you should check the Jenny Tours website.

The only other way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship. The marina at Nelson’s Dockyard is a haven for yachts, with regular sailing events being scheduled throughout the year.

Cruise ships arrive at the port in St. Johns.

Getting Around

Antigua Travel Guide: Abandoned Vehicle Antigua.

Not all transport options on Antigua are reliable.

Ferry

There is a daily ferry service, which connects Antigua (St. John’s) with Barbuda. The crossing time is 90 minutes. Check the Barbuda Express website for schedules and fares.

Bus

The public transportation system in Antigua is made up of privately owned buses (mostly mini buses). Most of these start from St. John’s from either the East Bus Station or the West Bus Station. You can view the bus routes here.

Taxi

Taxis are also available.

Rental Car

Antigua License Plate.

The license plate of my Antigua rental car.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. As with other Anglo-Caribbean countries, the government of Antigua raises revenue by requiring anyone hiring a car to hold a temporary driving permit. This can be purchased at the car rental agency.

As with other Anglo-Caribbean islands, road signage is almost non-existent. Best to always stop and ask the locals for directions – a great way to get to know everyone on the island.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

Antigua Travel Guide Antigua Travel Guide Antigua Travel Guide Antigua Travel Guide Antigua Travel Guide Antigua Travel Guide Antigua Travel Guide Antigua Travel Guide Antigua Travel Guide

Guadeloupe Travel Guide

8 years ago
Darren McLean
Cascade aux Ecrevisses at the Guadeloupe National Park.

Guadeloupe Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Guadeloupe Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Resembling a butterfly, Guadeloupe is comprised of two very different islands, separated by a narrow channel – the Salée River. To the west (left wing) lies Basse-Terre – a mountainous, volcanic island. To the east (right wing) lies Grande-Terre – a flat piece of raised limestone sea bed.

Guadeloupe National Park.

Guadeloupe National Park.

Part of the Lesser Antilles, Guadeloupe is located north of Dominica, south of Antigua & Barbuda and south-east of Montserrat. A regular ferry service connects Guadeloupe to Dominica, Martinique and St. Lucia. For more on this, see the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

Location

As with Martinique to the south, Guadeloupe is an overseas department of France and if you are arriving from one of the neighbouring Anglo-Caribbean islands you will notice a big difference in the standard of living – all thanks to generous French subsidies.

History

Like neighbouring islands, the original settlers on Guadeloupe were the native Arawak Indians, who arrived from modern day Venezuela. They were eventually replaced by the more aggressive Carib Indians.

Christopher Columbus made landfall here on his second voyage to the Americas in November 1493. He named the island Santa María de Guadalupe de Extremadura, after the image of the Virgin Mary venerated at the Spanish monastery in Guadalupe, a monastery he had once visited. As with other neighbouring islands, the Caribs were strong defenders of their land so the Spanish never settled on the island.

However in 1635, French explorers landed on the island and decided it would be a good place to grow tobacco. A French trading company sent a small army of men (550) to the island to wage battle against the Carib Indians. The war lasted 3 years but eventually the French gained control of the island.

In addition to tobacco, sugar plantations were also established. In its heyday, Guadeloupe produced more sugar than all the British islands combined. Slave labour was imported from West Africa to work on the plantations. The population of Guadeloupe today is 410,335, mainly comprised of descendants of the slaves. After slavery was abolished, indentured labourers were imported from India.

At one stage Britain held control of the island but traded it for Canada during the Treaty of Paris.

Cactus on Basse-Terre.

Cactus on Basse-Terre.

Today tourism is a key industry, with 83% of tourists being French. English is not widely spoken on the island, so a little français speaking ability is useful.

Sightseeing

Around Basse-Terre

Deshaies

Located on the north-west coast of Basse-Terre, Deshaies is home to some fine sandy beaches, including Leroux beach, Petit Anse and Grand Anse.

Grand Anse provides a magnificent stretch of golden sand, gorgeous water and shady palm trees. Parking on the weekend can be a nightmare.

Pointe-Noire

Cocoa tree at La Maison du Cacao.

Cocoa tree at La Maison du Cacao.

On the highway in Pointe-Noire you will find La Maison du Cacao. Here you can walk around a small trail where you learn about the history of cacao. At the end of the trail is a visitor’s centre where enthusiastic guides provide a presentation (in French) on cacao and the chocolate making process. During the presentation you get to try different types of chocolate and tropical fruits.

Cacao beans at the Maison du Cacao.

Cacao beans at the Maison du Cacao.

Pigeon Island

Pigeon Island is a gem! So much so, it has been designated the Cousteau Marine Park and a bust of the famous commander has been installed in a Coral Garden at a depth of 12-m. It is considered one of the best dive sites in the Caribbean.

The coral reef and fauna are in excellent condition and the sea life is abundant. There are impressive slopes on either side of the island which drop down to 40-60 metres. Another added bonus is the close proximity to the mainland – a 5-minute boat ride away.

There are plenty of dive operators located around adjacent Malendure Beach. I did a dive with Les Heures Saines (English spoken), who I would recommend.

Guadeloupe National Park

Cascade aux Ecrevisses are a highlight of the Guadeloupe National Park.

Cascade aux Ecrevisses are a highlight of the Guadeloupe National Park.

A highlight of Basse-terre, the Guadeloupe National Park is heaven for those who like to hike. The park occupies a huge chunk of the centre of this mountainous island and can be easily accessed via the islands’ main traverse road (route D23).

A nice hike is to the Cascade aux Ecrevisses, which can be reached via a short hiking trail from the main road. There is a visitors centre at the trail-head, which provides information about the flora and fauna of the park.

Walking trails are clearly marked but you should ensure you are wearing proper footwear – not a place for your Havaianas. The swimming here is refreshing – a great place to relax and cool off.

Vieux Habitants

Coffee beans for sale at Cafe Chaulet, Basse-Terre.

Coffee beans for sale at Cafe Chaulet, Basse-Terre.

If you are passing through the town of Vieux Habitants and are in need of a caffeine fix, you could do worse than stop by Cafe Chaulet.

Here you can visit a small museum, which provides a history of coffee production on the island. You can taste their coffee (very nice) but there is a charge for this (not very nice). There is a gift shop selling all types of over-priced souvenirs and of course you can purchase their coffee.

Overall this place is a tourist trap and not worth going out of your way for but if you are passing through it’s worth 5-minutes of your time.

Around Grande-Terre

Unlike neighbouring Basse-Terre, Grande-Terre (which, despite its name, is actually smaller than Basse-Terre) is a huge slab of raised limestone sea floor. As such it is flatter and offers lots of powdery white sandy beaches, especially along the south coast.

St. Anne

Located on the south coast, St. Anne beach is absolutely wonderful, however everyone on the island knows this so it can get crowded. Parking can be difficult but worth the effort. You will be rewarded with powdery white sand and turquoise swimming water. There are lots of cafes and restaurants where you can refuel.

Accommodation

Guadeloupe Travel Report: Deluxe tree-house accommodation at Habitation Getz.

Deluxe tree-house accommodation at Habitation Getz.

You will find accommodation options scattered around both islands. Depending on the type of holiday you desire, you should base yourself either on Basse-Terre (nature, hiking, snorkeling, diving, beaches) or Grande-Terre (beaches).

I stayed in a tree house at Habitation Getz, located near the town of Vieux Habitants on the west coast of Basse-Terre. This charming, historic guest house offers accommodation in three different deluxe tree houses or the main house.

There are lots of accommodation options for all budgets available on booking.com

Eating Out

The cuisine of Guadeloupe features a mix of Creole and French influences. The island has a reputation for serving some of the best food in the Caribbean.

You will find plenty of restaurants specialising in French-Creole cuisine and international dishes. Seafood is popular and appears on most menus along with curry dishes.

Like the neighbouring Anglo-islands, Calaloo soup (a leafy vegetable similar to spinach) is a local favourite as a starter.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Guadeloupe – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

International flights arrive at the busy Pointe-à-Pitre International Airport, located 3-km north-east of Pointe-à-Pitre. The airport is the main hub for Air Caraïbes and Air Antilles Express.

The following airlines provide international connections:

  • Air Antilles Express – services to Antigua, Dominica (Douglas–Charles), Dominican Republic (Santo Domingo) Martinique, Puerto Rico, Saint Barthélemy, Sint Maarten
  • Air Canada – services to Montréal (Trudeau)
  • Air Caraïbes – services to Dominican Republic (Santo Domingo) Martinique, Paris (Orly), Saint Lucia (Vigie), Saint Martin, Sint Maarten
  • Air France – services to French Guiana, Martinique, Miami, Paris (Orly), Haiti (Port-au-Prince)
  • American Airlines – services to Miami
  • American Eagle – services to Miami
  • Corsair International – services to Paris (Orly)
  • Cubana De Aviacion – services to La Havana
  • LIAT – services to Antigua, Barbados, Dominica (Douglas–Charles)
  • Seaborne Airlines – services to Puerto Rico
  • Winair – services to Dominica (Douglas–Charles)
  • XL Airways – services to Paris (Charles de Gaulle)

By Sea

There is a scheduled ferry service connecting Guadeloupe with Dominica, Martinique and St. Lucia. The ferry terminal is located in downtown Pointe-à-Pitre. The service is operated by the Guadeloupe based Express-des-Iles. Check their website for schedules and fares.

Getting Around

With almost 2,000-km of roads, the road network on Guadeloupe is extensive and well-maintained with multi-lane freeways on both Basse-terre and Grande-terre. Roads are well signed so you’ll never get lost.

There is a comprehensive bus network on the island, with most routes originating from Pointe-à-Pitre.

Taxis are also available.

The best option for exploring the two islands is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. Unlike the neighbouring Anglo-islands, car rental on Guadeloupe is cheap. All of the international agents have offices at the airport and they offer large fleets of new French cars. Most cars on the island are manual – not automatic. Unlike the Anglo-islands, the French government does not raise revenue by forcing tourists to purchase a local driver’s license.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Guadeloupe Travel Guide Guadeloupe Travel Guide Guadeloupe Travel Guide Guadeloupe Travel Guide Guadeloupe Travel Guide