Tag - Caribbean

Dominica Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
A view of Dominica from Scott's Head.

Dominica Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Dominica Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Known as the “Nature Island,” Dominica lies at the top of the Windward Islands, south of Guadeloupe and north of Martinique. Although a short boat ride away, Dominica is a world away from its modern French neighbours. It’s far less developed, less commercialised and less modern. Everything here is on a much smaller scale and things happen at a much slower pace.

Cruising along the calm and enchanting waters of the India river, near Portsmouth, Dominica.

Cruising along the calm and enchanting waters of the India river, near Portsmouth, Dominica.

The island is a nature lover’s paradise. If hiking, scuba diving, snorkeling or if a natural, unspoiled landscape appeals to you, then you will enjoy Dominica. Although Dominica is in the Caribbean, it is not considered a resort island. If you are looking for all-inclusive resorts on sandy beaches this island is not for you.

A Yellow-Crowned Night Heron on the India River.

A Yellow-Crowned Night Heron on the India River.

Location

The island is 47-km long and 26-km wide, with paved roads providing access to most parts of the island. The Waitukubuli National Trail is a 184-km hiking trail, which runs the length of the island. You can hike the trail in segments or spend two weeks walking the entire length.

Like neighbouring St. Lucia, Dominica is a volcanic island. Due to its volcanic landscape, the island receives a huge amount of annual rainfall (100-cm on the coast with up to 760-cm in the mountainous interior). All of this rainfall sustains lush rainforests and feeds the many rivers on the island.

Indian River reflections, Dominica.

Indian River reflections, Dominica.

History

Traditional Kalinago busts carved from palm stumps.

Traditional Kalinago busts carved from palm stumps.

The original settlers on the island were the native Arawak Indians, who arrived from modern day Venezuela. They were eventually replaced by the Carib Indians (aka Kalinago). The Caribs called the island Waitikubuli, which means ‘tall is her body’.

On his 2nd voyage to the Americas, Christopher Columbus made landfall on the island on a Sunday, so he called the island Doménica (Sunday in Italian). However, due to the lack of gold and strong resistance from the Caribs, the Spanish didn’t settle on the island.

The abandoned Methodist Church at Hampstead, Dominica.

The abandoned Methodist Church at Hampstead, Dominica.

Eventually French settlers from neighbouring Guadeloupe and Martinique started settlements on the island. The French then formerly claimed the island in 1727. The French created plantations on the island and imported slaves from West Africa as a labour source. Most of the population today are descendants from the former slaves.

Dominica Flag

The flag of Dominica.

The British were handed possession of the island in 1763 as part of the Treaty of Paris. They maintained ownership until independence was granted in 1978.

A local boy enjoying a swim in the Soufriere Sulphur Springs.

A local boy enjoying a swim in the Soufriere Sulphur Springs.

Sightseeing

The welcome sign at Roseau Port, Dominica.

The welcome sign at Roseau Port, Dominica.

Roseau

An unusual site in the Botanical gardens - a school bus crushed by an African baobab tree during hurricane David in 1979.

An unusual site in the Botanical gardens – an empty school bus crushed by an African baobab tree during hurricane David in 1979.

Roseau is the capital and largest city (population: 17,000) of Dominica. The city was established by the French and was designed based on examples of towns in France, where streets extended from a central point – what is today the old market.

The Victorian-era water fountain which stands in the middle of Dawbiney market square in downtown Roseau.

The Victorian-era water fountain which stands in the middle of Dawbiney market square in downtown Roseau.

The design of the city can be confusing, however the city is small and compact and most sites can be covered in one day on foot.

Hand-painted billboard in Roseau.

Hand-painted billboard in Roseau.

Sites of interest include:

  • Old Market – The centre of everything in Roseau for more than 300 years. It was formerly used as a slave market, farmers market, public execution place but today is home to souvenir stalls.
  • Public Market – This bustling market is a great place to buy local produce and grab a bowl of goat stew.
A typical wooden building in downtown Roseau, Dominica.

A typical wooden building in downtown Roseau, Dominica.

  • Botanical Gardens – Set on 40 acres of land a short walk from downtown, the gardens include an aviary housing rare Jaco and Sisserou parrots.
  • Dominica Museum – Located on the waterfront, this small museum provides an overview of Dominican history and culture.
  • Morne Bruce – This hillside enclave is the home of the president and offers panoramic views of Roseau and the Caribbean sea. Morne Bruce can be reached via car or the 1/2 mile “Jack’s Walk” trail, located behind the parrot aviary in the Botanical Gardens.
Sunset at Roseau, the capital of Dominica.

Sunset at Roseau, the capital of Dominica.

For something different (and for the best Margaritas on the island), Zam Zam Mexican Restaurant is hard to beat. It’s located on the waterfront south of Roseau.

The flag of Dominica flying in Roseau.

The flag of Dominica flying in Roseau.

Around the Island

Portsmouth

A view across to Portsmouth from Fort Shirley, Dominica.

A view across to Portsmouth from Fort Shirley, Dominica.

The second largest town on Dominica. Portsmouth is located north of Roseau on the leeward (west) coast. Portsmouth is made more lively due to the presence of hundreds of American students who study at the Ross University School of Medicine.

There are several sites to visit, these include:

    • Cabrits National Park – Located on a peninsula north of Portsmouth, this is the site of Fort Shirley, an 18th-century British garrison. There are panoramic views of Portsmouth from the fort.
  • A male purple-throated Carib hummingbird at the India river.

    A male purple-throated Carib hummingbird at the India river.

    • Indian River – Located south of Portsmouth, the Indian River is a shady mangrove-lined waterway. The majestic, eerie-looking and impressively buttressed Bwa Mang trees stand sentinel over parts of the river banks. It’s all very serene and at times feels haunted. It was captivating enough for the producers of  “Pirates of the Caribbean – Dead Man’s Chest“. Several scenes were filmed on the river and today the remaining sets can be visited. Apart from movie sets you can expect to see a variety of birds such as egrets, hummingbirds etc. Rowers can be hired from the bridge on the main road for 2 hour excursions on the river.
Reflections on the Indian river

Bwa Mang trees on the Indian river

A good place to grab lunch in Portsmouth is from one of the snackettes on “Eat Street“, located alongside the Ross University School of Medicine Campus.

Trafalgar Falls

The majestic Trafalgar Falls.

The majestic Trafalgar Falls.

These twins falls are located on the eastern edge of Morne Trois Pitons National Park and are worth a visit. The tallest of the falls – the Father, is a hot water fall. The lower, shorter falls – the Mother, is a cold water fall. They can be accessed via a 600-m walk along a forested trail. At the base of the falls there are swimming holes where you can alternate between hot and cold pools.

The hot (left) and cold (right) falls at Trafalgar falls, Dominica.

The hot (left) and cold (right) falls at Trafalgar falls, Dominica.

Wotten Waven Hot Springs

Located in the hills a short drive east of Roseau, the town of Wotten Waven is home to several sulphur springs.

I visited, and would recommend, the facilities at Ti Kwen Glo Cho hot springs. Here you’ll find a variety of different size pools, bathtubs fed by warm spring water and a short walking trail to a nearby waterfall. It’s all set in a lush rain forest setting. On your way out you can purchase a bottle of snake oil from the friendly reception staff.

Ti Kwen Glo Cho hot spring at Wotten Waven.

Ti Kwen Glo Cho hot spring at Wotten Waven.

Emerald Pool

The Emerald pool is a relaxed natural pool with a rocky ledge and a small waterfall in the middle of a serene rainforest.

The Emerald pool is a relaxed natural pool with a rocky ledge and a small waterfall in the middle of a serene rainforest.

The Emerald Pool takes its name from its lush green setting at the base of a 12-m waterfall. The pool is reached via a 10 minute hike through a rain forest. The pool is deep enough for swimming, providing a great place to cool off on a hot day.

Dominican tree lizard - or 'Zandoli' at the Emerald Pool, Dominica.

Dominican tree lizard – or ‘Zandoli’ at the Emerald Pool, Dominica.

Champagne Reef

A special attraction for snorkelers and divers is Champagne reef. The water is crystal clear, with an abundance of marine life with the added attraction of constant bubbles being provided from an underwater spring. The reef is located south of Roseau. Magic!

Scott’s Head

Located at the southern end of the island, Scott’s Head is a picturesque fishing village with a pebble beach. There are beautiful panoramic views of the Caribbean sea and the Atlantic ocean from the headland.

Fishing boats at Scott's Head.

Fishing boats at Scott’s Head.

Carib Territory

A traditional Kalinago carving, Dominica.

A traditional Kalinago carving, Dominica.

Traditional Kalinago busts carved from palm stumps.Located on the East coast is the Carib territory, a reserve which was established in 1903 by the British colonial authorities. The reserve (the only one of its kind in the Caribbean) was established for the indigenous Carib people, also known as the Kalinago, who inhabited Dominica prior to European colonisation and settlement. Currently there are about 3,000 Kalinago living in the reserve, residents share ownership of all the land within the reserve.

There are 8 hamlets in the reserve and a model village (Kalinago Barana Auté), which has been created to provide tourists with an insight into the Kalinago culture. Enthusiastic guides are available for guided visits.

Even if you miss the ‘welcome’ signs you will know when you have entered the territory from the abundance of native craft shops lining the main road.

Calibishe

Cow grazing in an abandoned sugar mill in Hampstead.

Cow grazing in an abandoned sugar mill in Hampstead.

Located on the north-east coast is this beach side town, which provides a good base for exploring this part of the island. There are lots of accommodation options and restaurants.

A panoramic view of the east coast of Dominica, north of Calibishe.

A panoramic view of the east coast of Dominica, north of Calibishe.

I stayed up on the hill at the Jacoway Inn , which is owned by an enthusiastic Canadian lady (Carol Ann) and her Dominican husband. They offer two studio apartments and a one-bedroom bungalow. The breakfast is especially good with many homemade items on offer.

Accommodation

There are no big name international hotel chains on Dominica. The best hotel in Roseau, and one I would recommend, is the Fort Young Hotel. It was originally built in 1699 by the British as a fort. Located downtown, directly on the waterfront, this is a local institution full of charm. Good rates are available on booking.com

Elsewhere on the island, there are loads of accommodation options, mainly privately owned guest houses and B&B’s.

Eating Out

A speciality on Dominica are the homemade spiced rums, some of which are very political!

A speciality on Dominica are the homemade spiced rums, some of which are very political!

The Creole and British influenced cuisine of Dominica is very different to the cuisine found on the neighbouring French islands of Martinique or Guadeloupe.

A moist tropical climate and rich volcanic soil ensure abundant agriculture on the island. Dominica is the vegetable garden of the Antilles, exporting it’s produce to neighbouring islands. Markets on the island are a treat to visit, offering an abundance of interesting fruits and vegetables, all of which can be found on local menus.

Fishing is still an important industry so seafood is plentiful.

Visa Requirements

Visitors do not require visas to enter Dominica, unless they are nationals of Haiti or Dominican Republic.

Getting There

Boats in Roseau port, Dominica.

Boats in Roseau port, Dominica.

By Air

There are two airports on Dominica – the main airport, Douglas-Charles (formerly Melville Hall), located 3-km north of the town of Marigot on the east coast and the smaller Canefield airport, located 5-km north of Roseau.

Canefield Airport – this airport currently has no scheduled services.

Douglas-Charles Airport – since services to Canefield airport ceased, this is the only airport in operation on the island.

Services include:

  • Air Antilles Express – services to Martinique, Guadeloupe
  • Air Sunshine – services to Sint Maarten, Puerto Rico, Anguilla, Nevis, Tortola, Virgin Gorda
  • BVI Airways – services to Sint Maarten
  • LIAT – services to Antigua, Barbados, Guadeloupe, Saint Lucia, Puerto Rico, Sint Maarten
  • Seaborne Airlines – services to Puerto Rico
  • Winair – Services to Guadeloupe, Sint Maarten

By Sea

A cruise ship docked at Roseau.

A cruise ship docked at Roseau.

There is a scheduled ferry service connecting Dominica with Martinique, St. Lucia and Guadeloupe. Ferries depart from the port in Roseau. The service is operated by the Guadeloupe based Express-des-Iles. Check their website for schedules and fares.

Cruise ships dock in Roseau, directly in front of the Fort Young hotel.

Getting Around

A 4WD rental car is the best choice for Dominica's rough roads.

A 4WD rental car is the best choice for Dominica’s rough roads.

It is easy to get around Dominica. Taxi services are readily available, as are small buses or vans that travel the highways, picking up and dropping off passengers on request.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car. I used, and would recommend, Courtesy Car Rentals, who have an office in Roseau and at the airport.

Like other Anglo-Caribbean islands, the government of Dominica raises revenue from tourists by requiring all drivers to purchase a local driver’s license. This can be done through the rental agency.

The main roads on the island are paved but are often steep, thin, and twisted. The Chinese-built highway running north along the coast from Roseau to Portsmouth is in excellent condition. Likewise, the EU-built road, which traverses the island from Roseau to Marigot is also in excellent condition. On all other roads caution needs to be exercised as there are many potholes, steep embankments without protective sidings and tight, unmarked bends.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Dominica Travel Guide Dominica Travel Guide Dominica Travel Guide Dominica Travel Guide Dominica Travel Guide Dominica Travel Guide Dominica Travel Guide

Martinique Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
The very punk-looking Antillean Crested Hummingbird.

Martinique Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Martinique Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Martinique is an overseas department of France and if you are arriving from one of the neighbouring Anglo-Caribbean islands you will notice a big difference in the standard of living – all thanks to generous French subsidies. The island has no natural resources and most of its economy is devoted to sugar production so subsidies are critical and hence calls for independence never gain traction.

The Madeira Hummingbird is a common sight on Martinique.

The Madeira Hummingbird is a common sight on Martinique.

Unlike the Anglo-islands, the French provide a regular ferry service, which connects Martinique to its neighbours and Guadeloupe – for more on this, see the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

Martinique is the 3rd largest island in the Lesser Antilles after Trinidad and Guadeloupe. The island is 70 km in length and 30 km wide and getting around is made easy thanks to investments by the French government in infrastructure and public transportation.

Location

Part of the Lesser Antilles, Martinique is located in the Caribbean sea, north of St. Lucia and south of Dominica.

Like its neighbours, Martinique is a volcanic island, lying along the fault-line where the North America plate slides beneath the Caribbean plate. The highest point is Mont Pelée (1,400m), an active volcano, which last erupted in 1902, destroying the capital of St. Pierre and killing 28,000 people in 2 minutes. Today the islands capital is Fort-de-France, which is out of reach of the destructive forces of Mont Pelée.

A Madeira Hummingbird on Martinique.

A Madeira Hummingbird on Martinique.

Culturally the island is very different to its neighbours, reflecting a distinctive blend of French and West Indian cultures.

Being a department of France, Martinique is an outpost of the European Union, along with neighbouring Guadeloupe and French Guiana in South America. Its currency is the Euro. All political decisions affecting the island are made thousands of miles away in Paris. In the past protests have erupted over the rising cost of living as most goods cost more on the island than on the mainland.

Madeira Hummingbird on Martinique.

Madeira Hummingbird on Martinique.

History

The island was originally inhabited by native Arawak, then Carib then the more aggressive Taino Indians. Columbus charted the island in 1493 but Spain had little interest in it.

A Carib Beer advertisement on Martinique.

A Carib Beer advertisement on Martinique.

The French arrived in 1635 after being expelled from St. Kitts by the British and settled the island. The French have maintained possession since that time except for three short periods when it was under British occupation. The island was used primarily for the production of sugar.

The very punk-looking Antillean Crested Hummingbird.

The very punk-looking Antillean Crested Hummingbird.

Martinique has a population of around 400,000, with an additional 260,000 Martiniquais living in mainland France. Most of the population is descended from African slaves brought to work on sugar plantations during the colonial era. Both French and Creole are widely spoken. Today tourism is a key industry.

Sightseeing

Fort-de-France

The 'Hotel de Ville' (Town Hall) in Fort-de-France.

The ‘Hotel de Ville’ (Town Hall) in Fort-de-France.

Fort-de-France is the capital and largest city (population: 90,000) of Martinique. The old town is small and compact and most sites can be covered on foot in one day.

Sites include:

Place de la Savane – This is a park where you will find cafes and restaurants and a vandalised (beheaded) statue of island native Joséphine de Beauharnais, first wife of Napoleon Bonaparte. It was vandalised in the 1990’s by individuals who blamed her for supporting the re-establishment of slavery on the island. Her parents were plantation owners.

A vandalised statue of Martinique-born Empress Josephine, the wife of Napoleon Bonaparte

A vandalised statue of Martinique-born Empress Josephine, the wife of Napoleon Bonaparte

Schoelcher Library – Designed by Gustave Eiffel, the entire library was first built in France then shipped piece by piece to Martinique as a monument to Victor Schoelcher the French abolitionist writer.

The Schoelcher Library in Fort-de-France, designed by Gustav Eiffel.

The Schoelcher Library in Fort-de-France, designed by Gustav Eiffel.

St. Louis Cathedral – Another Gustave Eiffel design, this is the 7th church to occupy the site, the previous six churches were destroyed by either fire, earthquakes or hurricanes. Eiffel designed the church with an iron frame for robustness.

St. Louis cathedral, Fort-de-France.

St. Louis cathedral, Fort-de-France.

The ferry terminal for the Express-des-Iles ferry (services to St. Lucia, Dominica and Guadeloupe) is located downtown. For more on this, see the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

Around the Island

St. Pierre

A ruined building in St. Pierre displays photos of some of the victims of the volcanic eruption which destroyed the former capital.

A ruined building in St. Pierre displays photos of some of the victims of the volcanic eruption which destroyed the former capital.

The site of the original French settlement and once known as the “Paris of the Caribbean”, the former capital – St. Pierre – was destroyed in minutes on the 8th of May 1902 when nearby Mont Pelée erupted, killing 28,000 people.

After the eruption refugees from Martinique fled to neighouring Dominica, where many remained. Shortly after the devastation, the capital was relocated south to Fort-de-France.

An abandoned building in St. Pierre, the former capital which was destroyed by a volcanic eruption.

An abandoned building in St. Pierre, the former capital which was destroyed by a volcanic eruption.

Today the town is back to life but many buildings have been kept untouched since the eruption as a historical reminder. All the sites can be covered on foot in a couple of hours.

Sites worth visiting include the Volcano museum, the ruins of the old theatre and the adjacent jail cell which, on the morning of the explosion, contained one prisoner (a local drunk) who was protected from the eruption by the thick stone walls and the poor ventilation of his dungeon-like cell. He was one of just 3 survivors. He was later pardoned for his crimes and then toured the United States as an act with the Barnum & Bailey circus.

Route des Rhums

From the nation who gave the world the ‘Route de Vin‘ comes the ‘Route des Rhums‘.

In the early 19th century, plantation owners, who were facing a decline in the global sugar market, turned to rum production as a way of supplementing their income.

Today there are no fewer than 10 rum distilleries on Martinique so it was fitting that the tourist office created the Route des Rhums.

An especially fine drop - Trois Rivieres Rum.

An especially fine drop – Trois Rivieres Rum.

The distilleries can be found all over the island so you are never far from your next tasting. They are educational and informative. I recommend visiting La Mauny and Trois Rivières, both located in the south of the island.

Martinique Travel Guide: Not to be out-done, La Mauny rum is also very quaffable.

Not to be out-done, La Mauny rum is also very quaffable.

Martinique Beaches

Martinique Travel Guide: Grand Anse des Salines beach.

Grand Anse des Salines beach.

There are many fine beaches in the south-west and at the southern end of the island.

The beach at Les Anses-d’Arlet offers good swimming and a reef 50 m offshore offers fantastic snorkeling. The town offers bars, cafes, restaurants and a popular French bakery.

Nearby Les Anses-d’Arlet is the smaller beach of Anse Dufour, which also offers good snorkeling. There are many fine dining options around the beach.

At the southern tip of the island is the remote but beautifully sweeping Grand Anse Des Salines. At the time of my visit the powdery white sand was covered in seaweed from recent storms.

Accommodation

Martinique is full of accommodation options. Many French expats have relocated to the island from the mainland and have established guest houses and B&B accommodation.

A highly recommended downtown option is Hotel Fort Savane, centrally located across the road from La Savane and a short walk from the ferry terminal – a good place to stay if you have an early departure the next day.

Being a French territory blessed with beautiful beaches, there is the ubiquitous Club Med – plus many other fine resorts.

Peak season is from December to April. Best to book in advance using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

Market produce at Sainte-Anne market.

Market produce at Sainte-Anne market.

Being French you can be sure the culinary offerings on Martinique would be worth a trip on their own. Many chefs have relocated from France and have established fine dining restaurants.

The cuisine of Martinique is a hybrid, mixing elements of African, French, Carib Amerindian and South Asian traditions. 

One of its most famous dishes is the Colombo curry – a unique curry of chicken, meat or fish with vegetables, spiced with a distinctive Marsala of Tamil origins, tamarind and coconut milk or rum. I first tried this dish in French Guiana, it’s a favourite meal throughout the French Caribbean.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Martinique – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

Martinique’s airport is Martinique Aimé Césaire International Airport. Compared to the quiet, smaller, provisional airports on the neighbouring Anglo-islands, Martinique airport is a large, modern, busy terminal.

At the neighbouring Anglo-island airports, you are subjected to painfully slow immigration queues, however formalities on Martinique are fast and painless. If you hold a European passport you can expect to sail through immigration without stopping to have your passport stamped. Other passport holders will need to get their passports stamped but this takes just a few seconds. Unlike other islands, there is no arrival card to be completed.

The following airlines provide services to/ from Martinique:

  • Air Antilles Express – services to Dominica, Dominican Republic, Guadeloupe, Puerto Rico, Saint Lucia (Vigie)
  • Air Canada – services to Montreal (Trudeau)
  • Air Caraïbes – services to Paris (Orly), Guadeloupe, Dominican Republic, Saint Martin, Saint Lucia (Vigie)
  • Air France – services to French Guiana, Miami, Paris (Orly), Guadeloupe, Haiti (Port-au-Prince)
  • American Eagle – service to Miami
  • Condor (seasonal) – service to Frankfurt
  • Corsair International – service to Paris (Orly)
  • Cubana de Aviación – service to Havana
  • Gol Transportes Aéreos (seasonal) – service to São Paulo
  • LIAT – service to Barbados, Saint Lucia (Vigie)
  • Meridiana (seasonal) – service to Milan (Malpensa)
  • Norwegian Air Shuttle (seasonal) – service to Baltimore, Boston, New York (JFK)
  • Seaborne Airlines – service to Puerto Rico
  • XL Airways – service to Paris (Charles de Gaulle)

By Sea

There is a scheduled ferry service connecting Martinique with St. Lucia, Dominica and Guadeloupe. The ferry terminal is located in downtown Fort-de-France. The service is operated by the Guadeloupe based Express-des-Iles. Check their website for schedules and fares.

Getting Around

The road network on Martinique is extensive and well-maintained, with freeways in the area around Fort-de-France. Compared to the neighbouring Anglo-islands, the roads on Martinique are in excellent condition with lots of signage so you’ll never get lost.

There is a comprehensive bus network on the island, with most routes originating at the busy terminal in Fort-de-France.

Taxis are also available.

The best option for exploring this vast island is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. Unlike the neighbouring Anglo-islands, car rental on Martinique is cheap. All of the international agents have offices at the airport and they offer large fleets of French cars. Most cars on the island are manual – not automatic.

Unlike the Anglo-islands, the French government does not raise revenue by forcing tourists to purchase a local drivers license.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Martinique Travel Guide Martinique Travel Guide Martinique Travel Guide Martinique Travel Guide Martinique Travel Guide Martinique Travel Guie

Saint Lucia Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
Ideal for swimming and snorkeling, picturesque Sugar Beach is situated between the Pitons.

Saint Lucia Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Saint Lucia Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Saint Lucia is part of the Lesser Antilles, located northeast of St. Vincent and south of Martinique. Due to its close proximity to Martinique the French have had, historically, a huge influence on this former British colony. The French named the island St. Lucia after Lucia of Syracuse. 

Location

Located in the Eastern Caribbean, Saint Lucia is the second largest island in the Windward group in the Lesser Antilles. The island is located about 39 km (24 mi) south of Martinique and some 34 km (21 mi) northeast of Saint Vincent.

St. Lucia is a volcanic island and hence more mountainous than most Caribbean islands. The most famous natural landmarks are the Pitons (Gros Piton and Petit Piton), twin volcanic plugs located south of the town of Soufrière. Saint Lucia is also home to a drive-in volcano.

History

The French were the first Europeans to settle the island in 1660 after signing a treaty with the native Carib Indians. The British first took control of the island in 1663 but subsequent wars with France resulted in frequent changes of ownership. The French ruled the island on seven different occasions. The British took definite control in 1814. The island achieved independence from Britain in 1979.

The symbol of St. Lucia, the iconic 'Pitons' are twin volcanic plugs.

The symbol of St. Lucia, the iconic ‘Pitons’ are twin volcanic plugs.

During the colonial period both the British and the French used the island as a sugar plantation, with slaves being imported from Africa to work the plantations. Today 70% of the islands’ population are Afro-Caribbean – descendants of the former slaves. The island has a population of 174,000.

Currency

The Eastern Caribbean dollar.

The Eastern Caribbean dollar.

Since 1965, the official currency of St. Lucia has been the Eastern Caribbean dollar (EC$), which trades under the international currency code of XCD. Since 1976, the EC$ has been pegged to the US dollar at the rate of US$1 = EC$2.70.

Flag

Saint Lucia Flag

Saint Lucia Flag

The flag of Saint Lucia consists of a cerulean blue field charged with a yellow triangle which fronts a white-edged black isosceles triangle.

The blue represents the sky and the sea, specifically the Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea which surround the country. The black and white allude to the harmonious relationship between the black and white races, while the yellow symbolises ‘sunshine’. The triangles represent the Pitons, the twin volcanic cones which are the symbol of St. Lucia.

Sightseeing

Castries

A view of the capital, Castries, from Morne Fortune.

A view of the capital, Castries, from Morne Fortune.

Castries is the capital and largest city (population: 60,000) of Saint Lucia – home to more than 30% of the islands’ population.

The city is built on reclaimed land and features a sheltered harbour from which ferries depart regularly for neighbouring Martinique – for more information on the ferry service see the ‘Getting There‘ section below. Visiting cruise ships dock in Castries harbour.

The downtown market is a great place to shop for souvenirs and for fresh local produce. There are very few sites of interest in Castries, it’s a nice enough place to spend a couple of hours strolling.

A nice place to eat is the Pink Plantation House, located on Morne Fortune south of Castries. The food and ambiance are well worth the drive and along the way you will have panoramic views of Castries.

Around the Island

Gros Islet

View of the north coast of St. Lucia from Fort Rodney.

View of the north coast of St. Lucia from Fort Rodney.

This inlet at the northern end of the island is today a big tourist playground but in former times was the setting for many of the battles between the British and French.

The main attraction is Pigeon Island National Park. Here you can visit the ruins of Fort Rodney and the various military buildings, which were used during the battles between the French and the British. From the fort, there are spectacular views of the north-west coast and (on a clear day) neighbouring Martinique.

Located within the park, you will find a nice beach-side restaurant for lunch and a good swimming beach. Snorkeling trips stop by here so bring your snorkel and mask.

A boat at Rodney Bay marina, flying all the flags of the Caribbean and North America.

A boat at Rodney Bay marina, flying all the flags of the Caribbean and North America.

On the mainland side of the inlet, Rodney Bay Marina offers many facilities including cafes, bars, restaurants and a supermarket.

Marigot Bay

Boats at Marigot Bay.

Boats at Marigot Bay.

Marigot Bay is located on the Caribbean (west) coast, a short drive south of Castries. The harbour is surrounded by steep hills, which offer magnificent views. The hills are now home to many guest houses and this is where I stayed while on the island. The inner part of the harbour provides a safe haven during hurricanes.

There is good snorkeling in the bay and an opportunity to see seahorses on the undersea break-wall – but you have to look hard for these perfectly camouflaged, tiny sea creatures. Dive trips can be organised from the marina.

Soufrière

View of Soufrière with the twin Pitons.

View of Soufrière with the twin Pitons.

This town of 8,000 was the original capital of St. Lucia and was founded by the French who managed plantations in the surrounding area.

South of Soufrière are the Pitons – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Gros Piton (771m) and Petit Piton (743m) are two volcanic plugs, which plunge into the Caribbean sea. The snorkeling off the beaches around the base of the plugs is incredible.

It’s no secret that St. Lucia is an active volcanic island so it is fitting that the island boasts the worlds only drive-in volcano. Located a short drive south of Soufrière, you literally park your car in the crater.

Walking trails take you past bubbling mud and steaming vents. You should bring your swimmers as you will have the opportunity to take a warm (45 degrees) mud bath, which is apparently medicinal but also lots of messy fun.

Located near the town of Soufrière, Sulphur Springs is the "world's only drive in volcano".

Located near the town of Soufrière, Sulphur Springs is the “world’s only drive in volcano”.

A short drive north along the coast from Soufrière will bring you to the remote and beautiful beach of Anse Chastanet. The beach is occupied by a resort but you are welcome to park your car in their car park and use the beach at no cost. There is good snorkeling at the southern end of the beach and a restaurant and bar for refuelling. The access road is very narrow, windy and steep.

South of Soufrière is Sugar beach. This beach is located between the Pitons and provides excellent snorkeling at the northern end. The beach is now occupied by a resort but you can park your car and use the beach for free.

Ideal for swimming and snorkeling, picturesque Sugar Beach is situated between the Pitons.

Ideal for swimming and snorkeling, picturesque Sugar Beach is situated between the Pitons.

Just off the highway south of Soufrière is Fond Doux Estate. This is a working cocoa estate with onsite accommodation and a popular restaurant – a good place to stop for lunch.

East Coast

The rugged, wild east coast is less developed than the west coast. The beaches here are exposed to the Atlantic and feature strong currents. You could cover the attractions on the east coast on a day-trip from the west coast.

Accommodation

Saint Lucia Travel Guide: View of Marigot Bay from my guest house

View of Marigot Bay from Marigot Palms guest house.

Accommodation is concentrated on the leeward (Caribbean) side of the island. Many of the best beaches have been sold off to luxury resorts but the beaches are open to the public and are free.

I stayed at the excellent Marigot Palms guest house, which overlooks Marigot Bay. The large rooms are kept spotlessly clean and overlook a beautiful pool and garden all of which offer panoramic views of the bay. The guest house is owned by a friendly, enthusiastic Belgium couple.

Peak season is January to April. Best to book accommodation using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

Like other Anglo-Caribbean islands, the cuisine of St. Lucia has been influenced by its African, Indian and European communities. Curry and Roti are local favourites but have been adapted and modified so they have a distinctly Caribbean twist.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for St. Lucia – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

There are two airports on St. Lucia:

  • Hewanorra International Airport (HIA), located at the southern end of the island and George F.L. Charles Airport, located next to Castries. The drive between HIA and Castries takes about an hour and a half.

Hewanorra International Airport – most international flights arrive at HIA. The following airlines provide services from here:

  • American Airlines – services to Miami, Charlotte & Philadelphia
  • Delta Airlines – services to Atlanta
  • Air Canada – services to Toronto & Montreal
  • Virgin Atlantic – services to London (Gatwick) and Trinidad
  • British Airways – services to London (Gatwick) and Trinidad
  • West Jet – services to Toronto
  • Jet Blue – services to New York
  • Air Transat – services to Toronto
  • George F.L. Charles Airport – this small, beach-side airport handles mostly regional flights. The following airlines provide services from here:
  • LIAT – services to Barbados, Antigua, Trinidad and St. Vincent
  • Caribbean Airlines – services to Trinidad
  • Air Antilles Express – services to Guadeloupe and Martinique
  • Air Caraibes – services to Guadeloupe and Martinique

By Sea

There is a scheduled ferry service connecting St. Lucia with Martinique (then onto Dominica and Guadeloupe), which is operated by the Guadeloupe based Express-des-Iles. Check their website for schedules and fares.

The only other way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

Getting Around

Mini buses run on designated routes covering most of the island and taxis are available for hire. Buses have green license plates, while taxis have blue plates.

The best option for exploring the island and getting off the beaten track is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. Before you hit the road you will need to purchase a St. Lucia drivers license, which will be issued by the rental company.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

Saint Lucia Travel Guide Saint Lucia Travel Guide Saint Lucia Travel Guide Saint Lucia Travel Guide

Saint Vincent & the Grenadines Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
Boats at Tobago Cay.

Saint Vincent & the Grenadines Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Saint Vincent Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

If you are looking for a chain of stunningly beautiful Caribbean islands surrounded by turquoise waters then St. Vincent and the Grenadines is for you. This is a sailing, diving and snorkeling paradise.

Location

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines is an island group located in the southern portion of the Windward Islands. The country is also known simply as St. Vincent.

The country consists of the main island of Saint Vincent and the northern two-thirds of the Grenadines, which are a chain of smaller islands stretching south from Saint Vincent Island to Grenada.

Saint Lucia (click to view my St. Lucia Travel Guide) lies 34 km (21 mi) north of the main island of St. Vincent while the Grenadian island of Carriacou (click to view my Grenada Travel Guide) lies just a few kilometres south of Union island.

Local boys enjoying the pristine waters on Mayreau Island.

Local boys enjoying the pristine waters on Mayreau Island.

History

The islands were originally settled by Carib Indians who resisted European occupation until the French arrived in 1719 from neighbouring Martinique. Eventually the British took control of the islands, but subsequently lost it again to the French. The British eventually regained control and maintained it until independence in 1979. The island was the last of the Windwards to be granted independence.

The French and British used African slaves to work plantations of sugar, coffee, indigo, tobacco, cotton and cocoa. The descendants of these slaves comprise the majority (66%) of the population today. The total population is just over 100,000 people.

This sandstone tunnel on St. Vincent was carved by slaves.

This sandstone tunnel on St. Vincent was carved by slaves.

As with other Anglo Caribbean islands, after slavery ended the British imported indentured labourers from India. Descendants of these labourers make up another portion of the population and today add spice, literally, to the local cuisine.

Currency

The Eastern Caribbean dollar.

The Eastern Caribbean dollar.

The official currency of St. Vincent & the Grenadines is the Eastern Caribbean dollar (EC$), which trades under the international currency code of XCD. Since 1976, the EC$ has been pegged to the US dollar at the rate of US$1 = EC$2.70.

Flag

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines Flag

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines Flag

The flag of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines is a Canadian pale triband (i.e. one where the middle band occupies half the area of the flag) which consists of blue, gold, and green bands, with three green diamonds at the centre.

The blue epitomises the sky and the sea, while the gold represents the colour of the islands’ sand, the year-round sunshine, and the “bright spirit” of the islanders. The green symbolises the country’s plentiful vegetation, as well as the vitality of Vincentians.

The three diamonds evoke the nicknames of Saint Vincent as the “Gems of the Antilles”. Their arrangement in the shape of the letter V is a subtle allusion to the first letter in “Vincent”, while its placement on the marginally lower part of the centre band indicates the geographical positioning of the islands within the Antilles island group.

Sightseeing

Saint Vincent Island

A view of the hilly north-east coast of St. Vincent island.

A view of the hilly north-east coast of St. Vincent island.

The main island of Saint Vincent is 26 km long and 15 km wide. The island is rugged and volcanic, the windward side (Atlantic side) is very rocky and steep, while the leeward side (Caribbean side) has more sandy beaches and bays.

Lava flow from La Soufrière volcano.

Lava flow from La Soufrière volcano.

Saint Vincent’s highest peak is La Soufrière volcano at 1,234 metres. This is prone to erupt from time to time, the last eruption being in 1979.

The capital and largest city, Kingstown (population: 15,500 ) is located on the south side of the island.

Frangipani's on St. Vincent.

Frangipani’s on St. Vincent.

To fully explore the island by car you will need 2-3 days. From Kingstown you have one road along the east coast and one along the west coast. You should allow one full day to explore each side of the island.

Kingstown

View of Kingstown, the capital of St. Vincent and the Grenadines, from Fort Charlotte.

View of Kingstown, the capital of St. Vincent and the Grenadines, from Fort Charlotte.

The capital and largest city was originally founded by French settlers in 1722.

Set on a hill on the northern outskirts of the city are the Botanical Gardens. They were established in 1765 by General Robert Melville, Governor of the British Caribbean. Captain Bligh (of the Bounty) brought breadfruit seeds to St. Vincent from Tahiti. This was imported as a food source to feed the slaves.

Today breadfruit is a staple on many Caribbean islands. A descendant of the first tree is in the garden. I would recommend paying for a guided visit. Jeffery, who is both knowledgeable and entertaining will provide information on all the tropical plants in the garden.

A couple of amorous lizards (Anolis) in the Kingstown Botanical garden.

A couple of amorous lizards (Anolis) in the Kingstown Botanical garden.

You can also see the elusive St. Vincent parrots, which are kept in enclosures in the garden.

Also worth visiting in the capital is St. George’s Anglican Cathedral, the colourful market and Fort Charlotte (located 200 metres above the coast on the outskirts of town). Kingstown is quiet in the evening with few dining options available.

A Broad-winged hawk, soaring above the east coast of St. Vincent.

A Broad-winged hawk, soaring above the east coast of St. Vincent.

From Kingstown you have the option of driving north along the rugged and wild east coast (exposed Atlantic side) where you can see lava flows from La Soufrière volcano.

Alternatively you can drive along the calmer east coast (protected Caribbean side) where you will find better swimming beaches.

Bequia Island

Bequia (pronounced ‘bek-waa‘), meaning ‘island of clouds’ in Arawak, is a charming island and makes for a pleasant day trip from Kingstown.

Saint Vincent & the Grenadines Travel Guide: Port Elizabeth, the gateway to Bequia island.

Port Elizabeth, the gateway to Bequia island.

The island is a favourite retirement location for Americans and Europeans who have opened cafes, restaurants and guest houses but there are enough locals in residence to ensure a Vincentian flavour remains.

Bequia is small enough that you can cover most sites on foot in a day.

Taxis are also available from the port, which is located in the charming main town of Port Elizabeth. This is where you will find shops, restaurants, cafes and accommodation. A short walk from town you will find the family run model boat shops—Sargeant Brothers Model Boat Shop and Mauvin’s Model Boat Shop. Model boat building is a speciality of the island.

For the best views of town, head up the hill to the 18th century Fort Hamilton.

Tobago Cays

Just north of Union Island lie this group of five small cays. The cays are surrounded and protected by a horse-shoe shaped reef. The snorkeling and diving here is stunning, you have to see this to believe it. The water visibility is incredible. There is a huge variety of marine life including turtles, who can be seen feeding on the sea grass in the main lagoon.

The best way to reach the keys is via a boat day-trip from Union island.  The trips normally include a lobster lunch on one of the keys, where you can watch sting rays patrolling the shallow waters off the main beach.

Union Island

Union Island is the southern most of the Grenadine islands within the territory of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. The remaining islands in the chain lie in Grenada – a short boat ride to the south.

A kite surfer, taking advantage of a strong breeze on Union island.

A kite surfer, taking advantage of a strong breeze on Union island.

The main town and port is Clifton which you can reach from Carriacou (Grenada) via private water taxi or from other islands in the Grenadines by ferry – see the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

Most places on Union island can be covered on foot but taxis are also available from the port. This is a good place to organise a day-trip to nearby Tobago Cays.

A short boat ride from Union island is the man-made Happy island. The island consists of a bar where you can get an excellent rum punch topped with freshly grated nutmeg. When I travelled in the Caribbean I carried my own grater and nutmeg in case of emergencies.

Saint Vincent & the Grenadines Travel Guide: The most popular drink in the Antilles, the 'Rum Punch', being expertly prepared on tiny Happy island.

The most popular drink in the Antilles, the ‘Rum Punch’, being expertly prepared on tiny Happy island.

Caribbean Rum Punch Recipe

1/2 oz. lime juice
4 oz. orange juice
4 oz. pineapple juice
1 1/2 oz. dark rum
1 1/2 oz. light rum
A little grenadine for colour.

Mix ingredients together, pour over ice and sprinkle with nutmeg and garnish with an orange slice and a cherry.

Enjoy!

Accommodation

On Saint Vincent I stayed at the charming Cobblestone Inn, located in downtown Kingstown. I would recommend this as a great base in the capital.

On Union island there are accommodation options in Clifton catering to all budgets. I stayed on a nice sandy beach a short walk from town but unfortunately I would not recommend the hotel.

If you prefer to book in advance, it’s best to book using booking.com

Eating Out

Like neighbouring Grenada, restaurants on the island offer Calaloo soup (a leafy vegetable similar to spinach) and lots of local seafood.

As with the other Anglo Caribbean Islands, Chinese and Indian cuisine is also available.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Saint Vincent and the Grenadines – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

International flights arrive at Argyle International Airport (IATA: SVD), which is located on the east coast, 8 km from Kingstown.

The airport is the second solar powered airport in the Caribbean, following V. C. Bird International Airport in Antigua.

The following airline provides international connections to St. Vincent and the Grenadines:

  • Air Canada Rouge – flies to/ from Toronto–Pearson
  • American Airlines – flies to/ from Miami
  • Caribbean Airlines – flies to/ from New York–JFK, Port of Spain
  • LIAT – flies to/ from Antigua, Barbados, Grenada, Port of Spain, Saint Lucia–Charles
  • Mustique Airways – flies to/ from Barbados, Bequia, Canouan, Mustique, Union Island
  • One Caribbean – flies to/ from Barbados, Grenada, Tortola
  • SVG Air – flies to/ from Barbados, Bequia, Canouan, Mustique, Saint Lucia–Hewanorra, Union Island

By Sea

There are no scheduled international ferry services, however private operators connect Carriacou island (Grenada) to Union Island (St. Vincent and the Grenadines). The journey time is approximately 45 mins. Ask around in either port for the captains of these boats.

The only other way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

Getting Around

Mini-buses operate on St. Vincent and taxis are available.

The best option for exploring the main island is to hire a car. There are rental companies at the airport and in Kingstown. If driving, you will first need to buy a temporary St. Vincent drivers license from the main police station in Kingstown.

Public transport on the smaller islands is non-existent. You either walk, hitch a ride or take a taxi.

Regular ferry services connect the different islands in St. Vincent & the Grenadines. For timetables and fares, please consult the Discover SVG website.

Small domestic airlines connect such as SVG Air and Mustique Airlines connect Kingstown with the Grenadines and beyond.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

Saint Vincent Travel Guide Saint Vincent Travel Guide Saint Vincent Travel Guide Saint Vincent Travel Guide Saint Vincent Travel Guide Saint Vincent Travel Guide

Grenada Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
A big smile at Grand Anse Beach.

Grenada Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Grenada Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Welcome to Grenada! Home to some of the friendliest people in the Caribbean. In this country you will normally be greeted by a warm welcome and a big smile.

Fishing boats at Crayfish Bay.

Fishing boats at Crayfish Bay.

Grenada is the most southerly of the Windward Islands, located a short boat ride south of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. The country is known as the “Island of Spice” due to it being one of the largest exporters of nutmeg in the world, supplying 40% of the market.

Location

Located in the Lesser Antilles, Grenada consists of the main island of Grenada itself plus six smaller islands which lie to the north of the main island. It is located northwest of Trinidad and Tobago and south of St. Vincent and the Grenadines.

The country consists of the islands of Grenada (main island), Carriacou and Petit Martinique. The main island is 34-km long and 22-km wide. You could explore most of the island in a few days with your own car.

History

Grenada was originally inhabited by native Carib Indians until the French arrived in 1649. The French forced the natives to flee to neighbouring islands. The French remained on the island until the British took control in 1763. The French returned again for a brief period but then the British regained control and kept it until independence was granted in 1974.

Fisherman in St. Georges harbour

Fisherman in St. Georges harbour

A coup in 1983, which resulted in the moderate government of Maurice Bishop being replaced by a strongly pro-communist government, concerned the US administration enough that President Ronald Reagan ordered US troops to invade the island. Once a new (friendlier) government had been installed US troops departed.

Nutmeg is Grenada's #1 export.

Nutmeg is Grenada’s #1 export.

Grenada has a population of about 110,000 – which, like other Anglo Caribbean countries, is comprised of people of African, East Indian and European descent.

Flag

The flag of Grenada.

The flag of Grenada.

The flag of Grenada consists of two yellow triangles at the top and bottom and two green triangles at the hoist and fly sides.

These are surrounded by a red border charged with six five-pointed yellow stars; three at the top centre and three at the bottom centre, along with an additional star on a red disc at the centre and a nutmeg at the hoist triangle.

Adopted in 1974 at the time of independence and designed by a local Grenadian, the representation of a nutmeg is symbolic of the islands’ primary export.

Currency

The Eastern Caribbean Dollar.

The Eastern Caribbean Dollar.

The official currency of Grenada is the Eastern Caribbean dollar. Headquartered in Basseterre, the Eastern Caribbean Central Bank (ECCB) is the monetary authority for the following Caribbean nations:

  • Antigua & Barbuda
  • Grenada
  • St. Kitts & Nevis
  • Dominica
  • St. Lucia
  • St. Vincent and the Grenadines

and the following British overseas territories:

  • Anguilla
  • Montserrat

The bank was founded in 1983 in order to maintain the stability of the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$) and the integrity of the banking system of the member states.

The bank issues the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (EC$), which is the currency of the member states. Since 1976, the exchange rate has been pegged to the US$ at a rate of US$1 = EC$2.70.

Sightseeing

St. Georges

View of St. Georges, the capital of Grenada.

View of St. Georges, the capital of Grenada.

The capital and largest city (population: 4,500) of Grenada, St. Georges is located on the hillside of an old volcano crater, wrapped around a horseshoe-shaped harbour.

A stroll along the harbourside street – the Carenage – is a good way to familiarise yourself with the city. The Carenage is home to bars, cafes, restaurants, shops and is full of activity from fisherman selling their catch to boats being unloaded, repaired etc.

Boat moored alongside the Carenage in St. Georges.

Boat moored alongside the Carenage in St. Georges.

The city is small and compact and most sites can be covered on foot in one day. In 2004 hurricane Ivan destroyed the city. Today many buildings, including many of the main churches are still to be repaired.

St Andrew's Presbyterian Church was destroyed in 2004 by Hurricane Ivan

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church was destroyed in 2004 by Hurricane Ivan

Around the Island

Gouyave

Learning about nutmeg from a guide at the Belmont Estate.

Learning about nutmeg from a guide at the Belmont Estate.

North of St. Georges is the west coast town of Gouyave. Worth a stop if you are passing through Gouyave is the Grenada Co-operative Nutmeg Association.

Nutmeg, laid out to dry, at the Grenada Co-operative Nutmeg Association.

Nutmeg, laid out to dry, at the Grenada Co-operative Nutmeg Association.

At the co-op, you can learn all about the island’s #1 export while watching factory workers process the nut ready for export all over the world.

A worker at the Grenada Co-operative Nutmeg Association, sorting different grades of nutmeg.

A worker at the Grenada Co-operative Nutmeg Association, sorting different grades of nutmeg.

River Antoine Rum Distillery

Rum from the River Antoine distillery.

Rum from the River Antoine distillery.

This is a “must see” – a rum distillery founded in 1785 where the technology has not changed one bit.

The sugar cane is crushed by a huge waterwheel, the cane juice then flows into holding vats. The giant distilling pots are fired by workers who throw wood onto the fire. Everything here, including the bottling and labelling, is done by hand.

Firing the vats of alcohol at the River Antoine distillery.

Firing the vats of alcohol at the River Antoine distillery.

The tour cost covers a sampling of the three different rums – it’s all rocket fuel stuff. Very potent!

Belmont Estate

If you are driving on the east side of the island you should aim to arrive at Belmont Estate around lunch time. The restaurant here does a great buffet lunch where you can try typical Grenadian cuisine. This is a popular lunch stop for the tour groups so it can get busy.

The estate is still in family hands. You can take a tour and learn all about the cocoa bean manufacturing and drying processes.

Cocoa beans drying at Belmont estate.

Cocoa beans drying at Belmont estate.

The onsite Grenada Chocolate Factory shop will satisfy the sweetest tooth.

Grenada Beaches

Sunset seen through a piece of fern coral at Morne Rouge beach.

Sunset seen through a piece of fern coral at Morne Rouge beach.

The best beaches are in the south-west of the island, a short drive south of St. Georges.

The main beach with lots of white sand, beautiful Caribbean sea and great swimming is Grand Anse. Here you’ll also find hotels, dive shops and a small shopping mall (only one on the island).

Further south is the more secluded but equally stunning Morne Rouge.  This is the best place to watch the sunset. There are some hotels on the beach here.

Grenada Travel Guide: Sunset at Morne Rouge beach.

Sunset at Morne Rouge beach.

Scuba Diving

Grenada Travel Guide: A camouflaged crab on a piece of brain coral.

A camouflaged crab on a piece of brain coral.

The diving on Grenada is very good. An interesting dive site is the Underwater Sculture Park. You can also snorkel here as the sculptures are in about 10 metres of water. The park is a 5-minute boat ride from the dive shops on Grand Anse beach.

Carriacou Island

View from inside a ruined windmill foundation on Carriacou Island.

View from inside a ruined windmill foundation on Carriacou Island.

North of the main island, set like a stepping stone between Grenada and St. Vincent and the Grenadines, is tiny Carriacou Island.

Carriacou is home to 8,000 people. The capital city is Hillsborough, the only town on the island. Everything is a 5-min walk in this town. With a car you could tour the whole island in an couple of hours or walk it in a day.

Carriacou is reputed to be the friendliest, healthiest and safest island in the Caribbean. It is a pleasant place to spend some time.

Accommodation

You will find accommodation concentrated in the south-west corner of the main island either in St. Georges or along Grand Anse or Morne Rouge beaches. There are other options elsewhere around the island.

If you are going to Carriacou you should book in advance as accommodation is limited. Best to book using booking.com

Eating Out

Restaurants on the island offer all the regular international dishes plus lots of local seafood and lambi (conch). Calaloo soup (a leafy vegetable similar to spinach) is a local favourite as a starter.

As with the other Anglo Caribbean Islands, Chinese and Indian cuisine is also available.

You should not leave the spice island without trying nutmeg ice cream.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Grenada – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

International flights arrive at Maurice Bishop International Airport, which is located in the southwest of the island, 8-km south of St. Georges.

The following airlines provide international connections to Grenada:

  • Air Canada Rouge to Toronto
  • American Airlines to Miami
  • British Airways to London (Gatwick)
  • Caribbean Airlines to Port of Spain
  • Condor (Seasonal) to Frankfurt
  • Delta Air Lines (Seasonal) to Atlanta, New York (JFK)
  • JetBlue Airways to New York (JFK)
  • LIAT to Barbados, Port of Spain, Saint Vincent
  • Virgin Atlantic to London (Gatwick)

By Sea

There are no scheduled international ferry services, however private operators connect Carriacou island (Grenada) to Union Island (St. Vincent and the Grenadines). The journey time is approximately 45-mins. Ask around in either port for the captains of these boats.

The only other way to arrive by sea is b

y private yacht or cruise ship.

Getting Around

My rental car on Grenada, where a 4WD is recommended to handle the rough roads on Grenada.

My rental car on Grenada, where a 4WD is recommended to handle the rough roads on Grenada.

Public transport on the main island is very limited and non-existent on the smaller islands. You can view the bus routes here.

Taxis are also available.

The best option is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. Before you hit the road you will need to purchase a Grenada drivers license from the police station at Grand Anse – your rental company will drive you to the station.

A daily passenger ferry runs between St. Georges and Carriacou with a connection to Petit Martinique. The ferry service is operated by Osprey Express Ltd. The ferry departs from the Carenage in St. Georges. The trip usually takes about 90 minutes, travelling up the west coast of the main island. For fares and schedule, refer to the Osprey Express website.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Grenada Travel Guide Grenada Travel Guide Grenada Travel Guide Grenada Travel Guide Grenada Travel Guide

Barbados Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
Barbados Travel Guide: Mount Gay Rum

Barbados Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Barbados Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

In the days when royalty and the rich and famous could fly Concorde to their favourite holiday destination there was just one regularly scheduled destination – Barbados!

Typical Bajan artwork for sale at a gallery in Bridgetown.

Typical Bajan artwork for sale at a gallery in Bridgetown.

The island has always marketed itself as a playground for the rich and famous and as such is not considered a budget destination – but, despite the marketing, you can still have an affordable holiday here. A very pleasant destination, Barbados (population: 280,000) is 34 km in length and up to 23 km wide and is easily explored with a rental car.

Colourful Chattel Houses, Barbados.

Colourful Chattel Houses, Barbados.

Location

Unlike most Caribbean nations, Barbados does not form part of any other island chain – it stands alone, and sets itself part, in many respects.

The island is located 168 km east of the windward islands of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines and 400 km north-east of Trinidad and Tobago. It is a huge chunk of raised limestone seabed located in the middle of nowhere. Barbados also lies outside of the hurricane belt.

Beach on Barbados.

An inviting west coast beach on beautiful Barbados.

History

The island was originally inhabited by native Kalingo until the Spanish arrived in the 16th century. The British arrived in 1625 and claimed the island.

Barbados Flag

The flag of Barbados features Neptune’s Trident at its centre.

The British ran the island as a plantation. Most of the population today are descendant from the slaves who were brought to the island from Africa to work on the plantations.

Violet Chattel House, Barbados.

A violet ‘Chattel’ house, a uniquely Barbadian word for a small move-able wooden house.

One of the legacies from the slavery era is the Chattel house, these can still be found all over the island. They are small, collapsible wooden houses that can be transported easily and were used by the slaves who would often move between different plantations.

A typically cute Chattel House on Barbados.

A typically cute Chattel House on Barbados.

Barbados remained in British hands until independence in 1966. Due to its historical ties to the UK, Barbados today remains more ‘British’ than any other Caribbean island and is often referred to as ‘Little England’.

Pink Chattel House, Barbados.

This renovated pink Chattel house now serves as an artist’s studio near Bridgetown.

Sightseeing

Bridgetown

The coral-limestone clock tower of the Parliament Building, Bridgetown, Barbados.

The coral-limestone clock tower of the Parliament Building, Bridgetown, Barbados.

The capital and largest city (population: 110,000), Bridgetown is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. At the centre of this compact capital, the Parliament Building is the seat of the Parliament of Barbados. Built between 1870 and 1874, the buildings have been the meeting place for both chambers of Parliament since 16 June 1874, and a former site of Colonial administration of Barbados. It consists of two buildings in the neo-Gothic architectural style, and are reminiscent of the Victorian era of Great Britain.

Government Buildings, Bridgetown, Barbados.

Reflection shot of the coral-limestone government buildings in Bridgetown, Barbados.

The buildings are situated along the north bank of the Constitution River and are bordered by Upper Broad Street and National Heroes Square to the south; strategically at the heart of the capital city Bridgetown. Prior to the establishment of the buildings the legislature met at the Town Hall building on Coleridge Street.

Parliament Buildings, Bridgetown, Barbados.

The Bajan parliament building in Bridgetown is constructed from coral limestone rock.

Downtown you will find many fine coral-limestone buildings, one of which houses the Barbados museum. Bridgetown is a busy, bustling city but most sites and can be covered on foot in one day.

The best coffee in Bridgetown is available from the cafe on the 1st floor of the Cave Shepherd department store on Broad Street.

A gift shop on Barbados.

A gift shop on Barbados.

George Washington House

The George Washington House Museum, Barbados.

The George Washington House Museum, Barbados.

George Washington House in Barbados is a historic house where the future first U.S. President George Washington visited, in 1751. He was 19 years old at the time and travelling with his ailing half-brother, Lawrence Washington. Barbados was the only country Washington ever visited outside colonial America.

The House, which is now operated by the Barbados National Trust, provides a glimpse into the Barbados of 250 years ago. The museum cafe, Coffee Barbados Cafe, serves some of the best coffee and brunches on the island.

Funky Rastafarian hats for sale on Barbados.

Funky Rastafarian hats for sale on Barbados.

Barbados Museum and Historical Society

The Barbados Museum and Historical Society In Bridgetown.

The Barbados Museum and Historical Society In Bridgetown.

Established in 1933 in the old Military Prison at the historic Garrison, the Barbados Museum & Historical Society is a private museum which houses 500,000 artefacts which depict the islands rich history and natural history.

Displays range from Bajan fauna and flora, natural history and Amerindian artefacts from the original settlers of the Barbados.

Around the Island

An antique mileage indicator on Barbados.

An antique mileage indicator on Barbados.

Mount Gay Rum

Mount Gay rum selection, Barbados.

Mount Gay rum selection, Barbados.

Barbados is a rum lover’s paradise. Rum is an integral part of Barbadian culture and with 12,000 rum shops scattered across the island, you are never far from your next drink.

Barbados claims to be the birthplace of rum. It is the home of several brands, including Malibu.

Mount Gay XO Rum.

The deluxe, Mount Gay XO, too smooth to be used in a rum punch.

Established in 1703, the Mount Gay company has spent over 300 years perfecting rum. It is the oldest commercial rum distillery in the world. The rum is distilled in the north of the island but the visitor centre is on the northern outskirts of Bridgetown and is open to visitors Monday – Friday. The distillery offers a choice of a standard tour or you can join a cocktail making class, which is a lot of fun.

There’s a restaurant onsite offering lunch and of course, the rum never stops flowing. My favourite is the XO, which is nice and smooth and should be drunk neat – too good to be wasted in a rum punch. All details regarding visits are available on the Mount Gay website.

Harrison’s Cave

Barbados Travel Guide: One of the many vast underground caverns at the Harrison's cave complex.

One of the many vast underground caverns at the Harrison’s cave complex.

Located in the interior uplands in the parish of St. Thomas, Harrison’s cave is worth a visit. Barbados is a raised slab of limestone so there are numerous caves on the island but this is the most impressive. Unfortunately you are not able to walk through the cave. Visitors are instead shuttled around on solar-powered trams.

Animal Flower Cave

A view of the sea on the north coast of Barbados from inside the Animal Flower cave.

A view of the sea on the north coast of Barbados from inside the Animal Flower cave.

The Animal Flower cave is located in the cliffs at North Point at the northern tip of the island in St. Lucy’s parish. The cave is accessible via a series of coral steps, which descend through what use to be the blowhole.

A view of the north coast of Barbados from North Point.

A view of the north coast of Barbados from North Point.

‘Animal Flower’ is a local term for a sea anemone, which lives in the salt water pools in the cave. The cave looks out onto the sea but during high tide the cave is closed as waves come crashing in through the entrance.

Colourful ceramic houses for sale at a souvenir shop on Barbados.

Colourful ceramic houses for sale at a souvenir shop on Barbados.

Concorde Experience

Concorde experience

Concorde experience

Parked in a custom-made hangar just off the runway at Grantley Adams International airport is Concorde G-BOAE, which used to fly weekly from London to Barbados until 2003. When BA ended the Concorde program this one was donated to Barbados.

The British Airways Concorde which is open to visitors at the Barbados Concorde Experience.

The British Airways Concorde which is open to visitors at the Barbados Concorde Experience.

A visit to the museum includes a guided tour inside the plane – the only chance for mere mortals to view the interior of the Concorde and to sit in one of its seats – and dream.

Sunbury Plantation House

The historic Sunbury Plantation House, Barbados.

The historic Sunbury Plantation House, Barbados.

Located in the parish of St. Philip, and dating from the 1600’s, Sunbury Plantation House is a renovated former ‘great’ house which, today, serves as a period museum, filled with majestic furniture and a bevy of antiques. In the late 1800’s, the Barbados Railway included a stop at Sunbury Plantation, one of four train stations in St.Philip parish

St. Andrews Parish Church

St. Andrew's Parish Church, Barbados.

St. Andrew’s Parish Church, Barbados.

Located on the east coast of Barbados, St. Andrew Parish is dominated by the historic St. Andrew’s Parish Church. The original church was established circa 1630, but was destroyed by a hurricane in 1831 – the current church dates from 1846.

Morgan Lewis Windmill

The Morgan Lewis windmill is the oldest windmill on Barbados.

The Morgan Lewis windmill is the oldest windmill on Barbados.

Located in the parish of St. Andrew, the Morgan Lewis windmill has the distinction of being one of just two working sugar windmills in the world today. The mill stopped operating in 1947 and, in 1962, was gifted to the Barbados National Trust for preservation as a museum.

Codrington College

Codrington College, Barbados.

Codrington College, Barbados.

Located on a hill in the parish of St. John, overlooking the Atlantic ocean, Codrington College offers one of the most spectacular views of the East Coast of Barbados. One of the oldest colleges in the Caribbean, Codrington College was founded with the profits from the bequest of Christopher Codrington, the former owner of Codrington Plantations, after his death in 1710.

Barbados Travel Guide: Water Lily at Codrington College, Barbados.

Water Lily at Codrington College, Barbados.

The setting of Codrington College is especially beautiful with a large garden, magnificent lily pond and a driveway lined with palm trees.

East Coast

Bathsheba Beach, Barbados.

Bathsheba Beach is a typical east coast beach on Barbados.

Beaches on the east coast of Barbados are exposed to the rough Atlantic Ocean and are not as ideal for swimming. It is much quieter on this coast with most people swimming on the calmer leeward side of the island.

Andromeda Gardens

The alluring Jade Vine Flower at the Andromeda Gardens, Barbados.

The alluring Jade Vine Flower at the Andromeda Gardens, Barbados.

Located in the parish of St Joseph, a short drive from Bathsheba Beach, the Andromeda Gardens started life as a private plant collection around the home of Iris Bannochie, a leading horticulturalist.

The garden today, which is operated by the Barbados National Trust, is considered the most attractive gardens on the island. Named after the Greek mythological figure of Andromeda, one of the highlights of the garden is the trellis covered with the very unique Jade Vine Flower.

Barbados Beaches

Typical west coast beach

Typical west coast beach

Barbados has more than 110 km of beaches and being a huge slab of limestone, the beaches are often white powdery sand (from crushed coral) with turquoise waters.

The beaches on the west coast are amazing and it’s here you’ll find most of the hotels and tourist infrastructure. Wherever you are on the west coast the view is of a quintessential Caribbean beach.

Sunset on the west coast of Barbados.

Sunset on the west coast of Barbados.

Accommodation

There is a range of accommodation options for all budgets on the island from deluxe resorts to hostels.

High season prices apply from mid-December to mid-April.

I stayed in two different hotels on the island:

Barbados is a busy island so best to book ahead using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

Like other Anglo-Caribbean islands, Bajan cuisine contains English, Indian and African influence, which has been fused with the local seafood and produce.

In downtown Bridgetown there are many restaurants offering lunch specials to the local office workers. Here you can sample local specialities at local prices.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Barbados – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

All flights arrive at Grantley Adams International Airport, which is located 13 km south of Bridgetown in the parish of Christ Church.

The airport has direct service to destinations in the Caribbean, United States, Canada, Central America, South America and Europe.

It also serves as the second hub for LIAT (hopefully you are not subjected to the terrible service of this Caribbean monopoly airline too often).

By Sea

There are no scheduled ferry services connecting Barbados to any other island. The only way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

Getting Around

Public transport on Barbados is excellent. Frequent buses connect most places of interest. You can check routes on the Barbados transport board website

Hiring a car will allow you to explore the more remote parts of the island. The island can be covered in 2-3 days.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Barbados Travel Guide Barbados Travel Guide Barbados Travel Guide Barbados Travel Guide Barbados Travel Guide

Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide!

Date Visited: March 2015

Introduction

Trinidad and Tobago (TT) is a two-island country offering the visitor two very different destinations in one and, due to the diversity of its fauna, flora and people, one of the more interesting destinations in the Caribbean.

Trinidad is a peculiar Caribbean destination due to the fact that historically, it formed part of the South American mainland. Because of this the fauna and flora on Trinidad is similar to that of Venezuela and the Amazon and hence unique for a Caribbean island. Here you will find Howler and Capuchin monkeys, ocelots, Scarlet Ibis, Tree boas and so much more. A trip into the mangroves of the Caroni Bird sanctuary feels much more ‘Amazonian’ then ‘Caribbean’.

Both Trinidad and Tobago are two delightful islands and well worth exploring.

Location

Trinidad and Tobago

Trinidad and Tobago

Trinidad has more in common with the South American continent than its neighbouring Caribbean islands. At its closest point Trinidad is located just 11-km off the coast of Venezuela and, as recently as 1,500 years ago, was part of the South American mainland.

The two islands are separated by 83 km (52 mi) of azure-blue, Caribbean sea, with Trinidad being more mountainous and forested while Tobago attracts the tourist hordes with its laid-back tempo and its idyllic beaches.

History

Trinidad & Tobago were two separate, independent territories until the British joined them as one administrative region in 1889.

Previously, Trinidad was a Spanish colony from the time Christopher Columbus landed in 1498 until a British invasion in 1797. Columbus named the island after he saw what appeared to him as a trinity of hills along the south-eastern coast.

White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

The British occupied Trinidad until independence in 1962. During this period slaves were imported from Africa to work on the many plantations. Once slavery ended indentured labourers from India were brought in to replace the freed slaves. Today the largest population group on Trinidad are the Indo-Trinidadians (37%), followed by the Afro-Trinidadians (36%). Making up the rest of the population are descendants of European settlers, Chinese, Arabs and more.

Trinidad is a veritable melting-pot and this is reflected in the rich and varied cuisine and culture. Carnival is the main cultural event – see ‘Carnival‘ below – and from this Calypso music developed. Today Soca music (mix of Calypso, dance / Indian music) is popular and can be heard throughout the English-speaking Caribbean.

White-necked Jacobin hummingbird in flight at the Asa Wright nature centre.

White-necked Jacobin hummingbird in flight at the Asa Wright nature centre.

Over the centuries Tobago has been occupied by the Dutch, English, Spanish, Swedish and French. The island has changed hands no less than 33 times – more than any other Caribbean island. It was ceded to the British in 1814.

Under British rule the island was run as a plantation, producing sugar, indigo and cotton. Slaves were imported from Africa to work the plantations and today the majority of the population are descendants from those slaves.

The beach at Pigeon Point is one of the finest on the island of Tobago.

The beach at Pigeon Point is one of the finest on the island of Tobago.

Flag

Flag of Trinidad and Tobago.

Flag of Trinidad and Tobago.

The flag of Trinidad and Tobago, which was selected from a series of designs created by the Independence Committee in 1962, features a red field with a white-edged black diagonal band from the upper hoist side to the lower fly-side.

As per the designer, the colour black represents the dedication of the people joined together by one strong bond. It is the colour of strength, of unity of purpose, and of the wealth of the land.

Red represents the fire element. It is the colour most expressive of Trinidad & Tobago; the vitality of the land and its peoples; the warmth and energy of the sun, the courage and friendliness of the people.

White is the sea by which these lands are bound; the cradle of the nation’s heritage; the purity of aspirations and the equality of all men under the sun.

Currency

Currency of Trinidad and Tobago.

Currency of Trinidad and Tobago.

The official currency of T&T is the Trinidad and Tobago dollar (TT$), which trades under the international currency code of TTD.

Issued by the Central Bank of Trinidad & Tobago, bank notes are printed in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $20, $50 & $100. Both the $50 and $100 are polymer notes. You can view specimens of current bank notes on the Central Bank website.

The dollar is subdivided into 100 cents (¢), with coins issued in denominations of 5¢, 10¢, 25¢ and 50¢. You can view specimens of current coins on the Central Bank website.

The current exchange rate against the US dollar is US$1 = TT$6.77

To view the current exchange rate, please click here.

Sightseeing

Trinidad

Port of Spain

Sunset over Port-of-Spain.

Sunset over Port of Spain.

Originally the site of an Amerindian fishing village, the capital of TT – Port of Spain (POS) – was founded by Spanish settlers who established a port here: “Puerto de los Hispanioles”, later renamed to “Puerto de España”.  A Spanish garrison first established a presence here in 1560. The British invaded and claimed the country in 1797.

With a population of 600,000 (greater urban area), POS is the 2nd largest city in the English-speaking Caribbean – after Kingston, Jamaica.

POS is an important commercial and financial centre for the Caribbean region and home to its biggest stock exchange. You’ll meet many different Caribbean ex-pats working here. Its airport is an important hub in the Caribbean, its port one of the biggest.

The downtown area is compact and the few sites of interest can be seen on foot in a day. It’s worth starting your day with a walk around Queens Park Savannah. This is the green lung of the city, a huge park lined with historical buildings that are all architecturally different.

On one side of the park you will find the Royal Botanical gardens. These well tended gardens are a good place to see native plants and trees.

Due to the multi-racial population, there are a variety of churches and other places of worship to visit.

Downtown POS has a gritty, rough edge to it. You should exercise caution when walking around. Crime is an issue here. Always take taxis in the evenings.

Carnival

Each year on the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday (February) the city celebrates Carnival. It’s the biggest of its kind in the Caribbean and the most significant event on the islands’ cultural and tourism calendar.

Carnival was originally brought to Trinidad by French settlers from Martinique in the 18th century. Originally the celebration was for the ruling class, but it was imitated and adapted by their slaves and, after the abolition of slavery in 1838, the practice became wide-spread.

The main venue is Queens Park Savannah in downtown POS. Carnival was traditionally associated with calypso music (developed in TT); however, recently Soca music (also developed in TT) has replaced calypso as the music of choice.

Bitter(s) in Trinidad

Angostura Bitters - proudly made in Trinidad.<br /> <i>Source: http://angosturabitters.com/</i>

Angostura Bitters – proudly made in Trinidad.
Source: http://angosturabitters.com/

Famous the world over, Angostura bitters is a concentrated bitters, or botanically infused alcoholic mixture, made by the House of Angostura in POS.

The secret recipe was first formulated by a German doctor who was the Surgeon-General in Simon Bolivar’s army in Venezuela. It was first produced in the town of Angostura (Ciudad Bolívar, Venezuela). The company later relocated operations to POS.

Visits are possible but must be organised in advance by contacting the House of Angostura. Don’t even try asking them about their secret recipe.

La Brea Pitch Lake

The surface of the 75-metre deep La Brea Pitch Lake, the largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world.

The surface of the 75-metre deep La Brea Pitch Lake, the largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world.

An interesting anomaly on the south coast of Trinidad is La Brea Pitch lake, which has the distinction of being the largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world, estimated to contain 10 million tons.

The lake is what is known as a bitumen seep. It’s the result of a fault in the sandstone bedrock 75 metres below, which allows bitumen to seep to the surface. The lake covers about 40 hectares (100 acres) and is 75-m (250 feet) deep.

My guide demonstrating how easy it is to sink into the gooey asphalt Lake.

My guide demonstrating how easy it is to sink into the gooey asphalt Lake.

The surface of the lake looks like a car park and is firm enough that you can walk on it. You should only ever do this with a knowledgeable guide as there are many places where the surface is soft and gooey. If you stray into these areas you risk getting stuck and possibly sinking into the gooey depths.

Wandering tourists have died here!

For decades the pitch has been mined and exported for use on roofs and roads.

The very sticky, La Brea Pitch lake.

The very sticky, La Brea Pitch lake.

By car the lake can be reached on a day trip from Port of Spain. The road from POS to San Fernando is a fast dual-lane highway. South of San Fernando the one lane road is slow, windy and busy.

Lake guides will be waiting around in the nearby car park and will find you before you find them!

Caroni Bird Sanctuary

Due to the fact it was sleeping, I was almost able to reach out and touch this Tree Boa in Caroni Bird Sanctuary.

Due to the fact it was sleeping, I was almost able to reach out and touch this Tree Boa in Caroni Bird Sanctuary.

The Caroni Bird Sanctuary is located on the west coast of Trinidad, a short drive south of POS. The sanctuary is centred around the Caroni Swamp, which is an estuarine system of mangrove forest and marshes.

The Caroni Bird Sanctuary is famous for its huge numbers of the striking, but shy, Scarlet Ibis.

The Caroni Bird Sanctuary is famous for its huge numbers of the striking, but shy, Scarlet Ibis.

The sanctuary is home to the Scarlet Ibis – the national bird of Trinidad. The highlight of a visit is to witness thousands of these birds returning to their roosting site at sunset on one central island.

Each evening at sunset, thousands of Scarlet Ibis return to Caroni Bird Sanctuary to roost for the evening.

Each evening at sunset, thousands of Scarlet Ibis return to Caroni Bird Sanctuary to roost for the evening.

The mangrove swamps in the sanctuary are a rich source of food for the Scarlet Ibis.

Like flamingos, the Scarlet Ibis obtains its brilliant colour from pigments in its food, which includes the mangrove crab.

Like flamingos, the Scarlet Ibis obtains its brilliant colour from pigments in its food, which includes the mangrove crab.

You can visit the sanctuary on a tour from POS or you can drive or take a bus. The entrance to the sanctuary is just off the main highway between POS and San Fernando.

If you travel to the sanctuary independently you can join one of the many boats that depart from the sanctuary entrance at around 3:30pm each afternoon.

North Coast and Northern Range

White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

If you have a car, a nice day trip from the capital is a circuitous route from Port of Spain to Maracas Bay on the north coast then onto the beautiful, isolated beach at Blanchisseuse. This is the end of the road along the north coast.

From here you turn south and cross the lush Northern Range, stopping at the Asa Wright nature centre before meeting the main highway at the town of Arima then heading back into Port of Spain.

A colourful male Violaceous Euphonia at the Asa Wright Nature Centre.

A colourful male Violaceous Euphonia at the Asa Wright Nature Centre.

Total driving time is about 4-hours but with stops along the way it will take you a full day.

North Coast

A view over the north coast of Trinidad from the Maracas lookout.

A view over the north coast of Trinidad from the Maracas lookout.

The drive from Port of Spain takes you first through the picturesque Maraval valley before eventually bringing you to the north coast. The coast road was built by US troops during WWII and hugs the Northern range high above the sea.

The best panoramic views are from Maracas lookout. On weekends Indian sweet sellers set up food stands here.

The road then descends into Maracas Bay, which is a popular swimming beach. If you want to try Shark and Bake (fried piece of flat-bread – bake – filled with pieces of fried shark) this is the place to do it.

Carib beer is one of the more popular beers in T&T and other Caribbean countries.

Carib beer is one of the more popular beers in T&T and other Caribbean countries.

Continuing until you reach the end of the coast road will bring you to the small village of Blanchisseuse. Here you’ll find a nice beach and a couple of waterfalls, which are popular swimming spots for locals on weekends. There are some beach-side restaurants here offering lunch.

Blanchisseuse Beach on the north coast of Trinidad.

Blanchisseuse Beach on the north coast of Trinidad.

From the coast you now head inland on the narrow, windy, mountainous road over the Northern Range. This is a beautiful drive through lush countryside. The locals advise to take extra caution when driving this road.

Asa Wright Nature Centre

A male White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

A male White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

On the other side of the range, as the road descends through the Arima valley, Asa Wright nature centre is a birdwatchers’ paradise. The original estate was purchased by Dr. Newcome Wright and his Icelandic wife Asa in 1947.

A female White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

A female White-necked Jacobin hummingbird at Asa Wright nature centre.

The original house has been preserved, and houses a dining hall, guest rooms and an open verandah for observing birds. There is a photo of Prince Charles and Camilla visiting the centre displayed in the hallway.

A male Purple Honey Creeper at Asa Wright nature reserve.

A male Purple Honey Creeper at Asa Wright nature reserve.

If you are not a guest you are able to visit the house and use the verandah for observation after paying an admission fee.

A Copper-rumped hummingbird at the Asa Wright nature reserve.

A Copper-rumped hummingbird at the Asa Wright nature reserve.

Tobago

Named for the tobacco plant that the Carib Indians used to harvest,  Tobago is an autonomous island within the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago. It is located 32-km northeast of Trinidad, but is a world away from the bustling ‘mainland’.

The island is known for its laid-back tempo, it’s many fine beaches, rain-forest, excellent snorkeling and diving and so is a popular tourist destination. The island relies more on the tourist dollar than Trinidad does.

Tobago has a population of 62,000, its capital and largest city is Scarborough (pop: 25,000).

The island is 40-km long and 10-km wide. There is almost no public transport on the island so you will need a hire car if you wish to explore – see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below for more details.

The roads on the island are asphalt but are narrow, windy and single lane, hugging the coastline most of the time. Driving conditions require that you slow down and take your time. It is a beautiful island with many spectacular views. A complete circuit could be done in one rushed day but two or three is better.

The island is connected to Trinidad by regular fast ferry services and frequent air shuttles – see the ‘Getting There’ section below for more details.

A view over the mountainous north coast of Tobago.

A view over the mountainous north coast of Tobago.

I stayed in the town of Speyside, which is on the quiet, remote north coast. If you wish to snorkel or dive, this is the place to be, but you’ll need your own transport here.

Most tourist infrastructure (hotels, resorts, restaurants, bars etc) is concentrated in the southwest corner of the island around Pigeon Point, Crown Point and Store bay. This area is walking distance from the airport. If you want to be close to sandy beaches, nightlife etc – this is the place to be.

Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide: Sunset from Pigeon Point beach, Tobago.

Sunset from Pigeon Point beach, Tobago.

 Accommodation

There are a range of accommodation options on Trinidad and Tobago. High season prices apply from January to May.

Unlike other Caribbean destinations, hotels in POS rely less on tourists and more on the business traveler. Accommodation is usually more reasonably priced, with bigger chain hotels offering bargains during the weekends. I stayed on the cheap at the Hilton.

Accommodation on Tobago caters for all budgets and is geared to the holiday maker. I stayed in an apartment in Speyside and self-catered. Be prepared for ‘sticker-shock’ when looking at resort / hotel prices.

Best to book in advance using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide: Fish market at Speyside, Tobago.

Fish market at Speyside, Tobago.

Like other Anglo-Caribbean countries, the cuisine of Trinidad and Tobago has been influenced by its diverse multicultural, multiracial population. It is a unique blend of African, Indian, Chinese, European and Latin American influences. Curry and roti can be found everywhere as can Chinese.

The fishing industry is key on Tobago so you will find lots of fresh seafood on the menu there.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Trinidad & Tobago – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

For some nationalities (e.g. Australians), you can purchase your visa upon arrival.

Getting There

By Air

Trinidad

Flights into Trinidad arrive at Piarco International Airport. The airport is located in the town of Piarco, 30-km east POS.

The airport is the main hub for the national carrier, Caribbean Airlines.

The following airlines provide international connections to / from:

  • American Airlines – Miami
  • British Airways – London (Gatwick)
  • Caribbean Airlines – Antigua, Barbados, Caracas, Fort Lauderdale, Georgetown, Grenada, Kingston, Miami, Nassau, New York (JFK), Orlando, Paramaribo, St. Lucia, St. Maarten, Tobago, Toronto
  • Copa Airlines – Panama City
  • Insel Air – Curaçao
  • JetBlue Airways – Fort Lauderdale, New York (JFK)
  • LIAT – Antigua, Barbados, Georgetown (Ogle), Grenada, St. Lucia, St. Vincent
  • Surinam Airways – Curaçao, Paramaribo
  • United Airlines – Houston (Intercontinental), Newark
  • WestJet – Toronto

Tobago

Flights into Tobago arrive at A.N.R. Robinson International Airport.

The following airlines provide international connections to/ from:

  • British Airways – London (via Antigua)
  • Virgin Atlantic – London (via St. Lucia)
  • Condor – Frankfurt
  • Gol – São Paulo
  • American Airlines and Caribbean Airlines – New York (JFK)

Trinidad ⬅️➡️ Tobago

Caribbean Airlines operates an air bridge between Trinidad and Tobago. There are about 20 daily flights, with the first leaving Trinidad at 6 am.

By Sea

Trinidad ⬅️➡️ Venezuela

Scheduled ferry services between Trinidad (POS) and Venezuela (Guiria) are currently suspended.

For those independent adventurers, there are other options if you are determined to make the short crossing. One detailed account is outlined here.

Trinidad ⬅️➡️ Tobago

The Trinidad & Tobago Inter-Island Ferry Service operates two fast ferries, which complete the 32 km crossing from POS to Scarborough in 2 and a half hours. There are multiple sailings 7-days a week. All details are available on their website.

Getting Around

Trinidad

Public transport on Trinidad is better than Tobago due to its larger population.

You have a choice of buses, maxi taxis (shared mini buses), taxis or ferries (e.g. POS – San Fernando).

Hiring a taxi in POS will cost you around USD$15 flat fare anywhere downtown.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car. You should book in advance as demand often outstrips supply. The island can be covered in 4-5 days.

Tobago

Public transport on Tobago is very limited – you will see most locals trying to hitch rides.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car. You should book in advance to avoid disappointment. The island can be covered in a day if you rushed around but at a more leisurely pace would require a few days.

 

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide

Bonaire Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
A Caribbean Flamingo on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

Bonaire Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Bonaire Travel Guide!

Date Visited: March 2015

Introduction

When your plane pulls up outside the small terminal building of Bonaire’s Flamingo International Airport (painted Flamingo pink) you’ll know you’ve landed somewhere special.

Dutch-style buildings in downtown Kralendijk, the capital of Bonaire.

Dutch-style buildings in downtown Kralendijk, the capital of Bonaire.

Located at the eastern end of the ‘ABC‘ (Aruba, Curaçao and Bonaire) island chain, Bonaire prides itself on being an environmentalists’ paradise.

The island has focused on preserving its nature beauty, with an emphasis on its stunning marine environment, and has over the years taken steps to accomplish this.

All the waters surrounding the island are 100% protected, which means this is a diver & snorkeler’s paradise!

Visiting cruise ships are forced to employ long ropes in order to tie up to the wharf rather than dropping anchor and damaging the pristine reef which runs along the entire west coast of the island.

Cruise ships at Bonaire are tied to the shore as they are not allowed to drop anchor on the protected reef.

Cruise ships at Bonaire are tied to the shore as they are not allowed to drop anchor on the protected reef.

There are 63 dive sites on Bonaire itself with an additional 26 on Klein Bonaire. Thanks to its constant trade winds, the island is also a popular destination for wind-surfing and kite-surfing, with most of the action taking place on the south-west coast.

Bonaire Flag

The flag of Bonaire.

Even if you’re not a diver or windsurfer, Bonaire offers other attractions, such as Flamingo watching by the shores or Lake Gotomeer and sipping vodka produced from a cactus!

Location

The island lies 48-km east of Curaçao and 140-km east of Aruba. It is the smallest of the ABC islands in terms of population (16,500) and 2nd smallest in terms of area (38-km long, 8-km wide).

However, what the island lacks in size it makes up for in charm and soul. Bonaire is enchanting. A large number of visitors to the island are return visitors. It is also outside of the Caribbean hurricane belt.

A Caribbean Flamingo on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

A Caribbean Flamingo on Lake Gotomeer.

History

The name Bonaire is thought to have originally come from the native Indian Caiquetio word ‘Bonay’, a name that meant low country. The early Spanish and Dutch modified its spelling to Bojnaj and also Bonaire.

An antique promotional poster for Bonaire.

An antique promotional poster for Bonaire.

While Curaçao emerged as a centre of the slave trade, Bonaire became a plantation of the Dutch West India Company. A small number of African slaves were put to work cultivating dye-wood and maize and harvesting solar salt – see ‘Salt Mining’ below.

Slave Huts, Bonaire.

Dating from 1850, these slave huts served as camping facilities for slaves working in the salt ponds on the south coast of Bonaire.

Bonaire is one of three islands that constitute the Caribbean Netherlands, along with Saba and Sint Eustatius (click on the links to read my guides to these islands). They are the three special municipalities of the Netherlands that are located in the Caribbean Sea.

A perfect east coast sunset on Bonaire.

A perfect east coast sunset on Bonaire.

Today tourism is the main industry, this island of 16,500 receives over 100,000 tourists a year. Most come as day-trippers on cruise ships, others come to dive in the Bonaire Marine Park. The largest group of visitors are Dutch and American.

A P&O cruise ship docked at Kralendijk.

A P&O cruise ship docked at Kralendijk. Bonaire has a total population of 20,000 while some large cruise ships bring 5,000 passengers to the island.

Sightseeing

Kralendijk

Bonaire Travel Guide: Dutch-style buildings in downtown Kralendijk, the capital of Bonaire.

Dutch-style buildings in downtown Kralendijk, the capital of Bonaire.

Kralendijk is the capital and largest city (population: 3000) of Bonaire. When a 5000-passenger cruise ship is in port this small town is overwhelmed.

The town developed around Fort Oranje, originally under the English as the settlement of “Playa”. The town was renamed “Kralendijk” by the Dutch colonial rulers in about 1840.

The flag of Bonaire, flying in downtown Kralendijk.

The flag of Bonaire, flying in downtown Kralendijk.

The language spoken in the town is Papiamentu (a creole language indigenous to the Dutch Antilles) but Dutch and English are widely used. In Dutch, Koralendijk (of which the name Kralendijk is a degeneration) means “coral reef” or “coral dike”.

Exploring the south coast of tiny Bonaire, including Willemstoren Lighthouse, in my rental car.

Exploring the south coast of tiny Bonaire, including Willemstoren Lighthouse, in my rental car.

There’s not much going on in this small town. The tourist information office has a walking tour brochure, which covers all of the sites of interest. You could see everything in half a day.

For the best coffee (and ice cream) in town, I recommend Gio’s Gelateria and Caffe, located on the main street – Kaya Grandi.

The Dutch-style town hall in Kralendijk.

The Dutch-style town hall in Kralendijk.

Whenever cruise ships are in town there is a market held on the Wilhelmina square. The BBQ sold here makes for a tasty lunch.

Off the coast of Kralendijk lies the uninhabited island of Klein Bonaire, a diving and snorkeling paradise. This small island can be reached by water taxi, or, for divers, by the local dive operators.

Flamingos

Caribbean Flamingos on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

Caribbean Flamingos on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

Bonaire is famed for its flamingos. They are drawn to the brackish water of the island’s lagoons, which harbour the shrimp upon which they feed. You can see flamingo populations at the northern and southern ends of the island.

The best viewing is at lake Gotomeer, either at sunrise or sunset.

Bonaire Travel Guide: A Caribbean Flamingo on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

A Caribbean Flamingo on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

The Pekelmeer Flamingo Sanctuary (southern end of the island) is one of only four areas in the world where flamingos breed. Pekelmeer means “salt lake” in Dutch.

Entry is not allowed in the sanctuary, but the birds can be watched with binoculars from the road.

A Caribbean Flamingo filter-feeding on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

A Caribbean Flamingo filter-feeding on Lake Gotomeer, Bonaire.

Cactus Vodka

If you are passing through the town of Rincon, you should stop in at the Cadushy distillery.

Cactus vodka from the Cadushy distillery.

Cactus vodka from the Cadushy distillery.

A variety of products are made here including the only vodka in the world to be made from a cactus – the Kadushi Cactus.

image

The Kadushi cactus – the key ingredient for Cadushy vodka.

Bonaire Beaches

Most of the coastline of Bonaire is rocky with a reef running along the entire shoreline, not an island for a beach vacation.

Most of the coastline of Bonaire is rocky with a reef running along the entire shoreline, not an island for a beach vacation.

For beach lovers, there are a choice of 22 beaches which offer small strips of sand ranging from soft to larger, coarser grains. The island is primarily a diving destination but a beach holiday is also possible. While on the beach, you should keep an eye out for the curious and not-too-shy Green Iguana which was introduced to the island in colonial times.

Introduced to the island, the Green Iguana is a common sight on Bonaire and is featured in local cuisine.

Introduced to the island, the Green Iguana is a common sight on Bonaire and is featured in local cuisine.

The focus on the environment on Bonaire ensures pristine waters full of coral, fish and sea life. Bonaire is a “Green Destination”, with the best beaches found on the protected, leeward side of the island (i.e. the west coast).

Diving and Snorkelling

Bonaire Travel Guide: A reef runs along the entire Leeward coast, making Bonaire a diver's paradise.

A reef runs along the entire Leeward coast, making Bonaire a diver’s paradise.

Bonaire is known for having some of the best diving in the world! This is the reason most people come to Bonaire…

Bonaire is essentially a coral reef that has been geologically pushed up and out of the sea. This has resulted in the natural fringing reef system you see today, in which the coral formations start at the shoreline. At any point along the coast you can step into the water and start snorkeling or diving. Just beyond the shoreline is a drop-off.

Bonaire markets itself as a divers paradise!

The Bonaire license plate - 'Divers Paradise'.

The Bonaire license plate – ‘Divers Paradise’.

The entire coastline of the island was designated a marine sanctuary in 1979 in an effort to preserve and protect the delicate coral reef and the marine life that depends on it.

If you are diving on the island you will be required to purchase the Bonaire Marine Park tag for US$25.00. The tag is valid for one year. SCUBA divers are obliged to display the dive tag on their BCD.

Dive operators can be found along the coast, especially north of Kralendijk.

Salt Mining

The purple briny water of a salt-water pond contrasts against the mounds of white salt at the Cargill Salt Mine.

The purple briny water of a salt-water pond contrasts against the mounds of white salt at the Cargill Salt Mine.

If you drive south on the island, you will see a series of white hills looming on the horizon. This is the Bonaire salt mine, which is today operated by the American company Cargill.

Salt mining has always been an important industry on the island. Fort Oranje was built by the Dutch in 1639 to defend the harbour, from which the main export was salt. The capital then developed around the fort.

The salt heaps at the Cargill Salt Mine look like snow covered mountains.

The salt heaps at the Cargill Salt Mine look like snow covered mountains.

During the era of slavery, the Dutch West India Company used African slaves to harvest salt. Salt was one commodity that Bonaire had in endless supply, although it took back breaking slave labour to produce it. In the early days of the industry, the most important use for salt was in the preservation of food, since refrigeration was still centuries away.

At this ‘solar salt mine’ seawater is pumped into evaporation ponds where the water is evaporated through the action of the sun and wind. As the water becomes more briny the level of algae increases and this results in the vivid pink colour. Once all the water has evaporated the remaining salt crystals can be harvested.

Salt piles at the Cargill salt mine, Bonaire.

Salt piles at the Cargill salt mine, Bonaire.

Most of the salt produced here is for industrial use, you will not find shops on the island selling cute souvenir packets of locally produced salt for you to use in your cooking.

Accommodation

Bonaire offers a range of accommodation options, especially dive resorts. Many hotels are located on the coast and allow guests direct access to the reef. High season prices apply from December to April. With limited options on the island, it’s best to book ahead using an online agent such as booking.com

I stayed on the coast, just south of the airport, at Bellefonte Oceanfront Hotel. The hotel has a wooden jetty, which provides direct access to the reef. 

Eating Out

There are restaurants catering for all budgets scattered around the island, especially in Kralendijk.

The best supermarket on the island is Van Den Tweel, located at 39 Kaya Industria, Kralendijk.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Bonaire – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

Flights into Bonaire arrive at Flamingo International Airport. Previously, Insel Air provided most connections between its hub at Curaçao airport and Bonaire, however, since its demise, other carriers have taken up the slack. The airport serves as a hub for Divi Divi Air and EZAir.

The following airlines provide services to/ from Flamingo International Airport:

Airport Transport

From the airport, taxis are available. There is no public transport on the island, your best option is to hire a car from the airport.

By Sea

There are no scheduled ferry services connecting Bonaire to any other island. The only way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

The current Cruise Ship schedule is available here.

Getting Around

Rental car on Bonaire.

My rental car on the west coast of Bonaire.

There is no public transport on the island. You either hire a car, take a taxi or walk. The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car. You should book in advance as demand sometimes outstrips supply. The island can be circumnavigated in just a few hours or in one day at a more relaxed pace.

Visiting the Slave Huts in my rental car.

Visiting the Slave Huts in my rental car.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Bonaire Travel Guide Bonaire Travel Guide Bonaire Travel Guide Bonaire Travel Guide Bonaire Travel Guide

Curaçao Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
Penha House and the colourful Handelskade line the waterfront in downtown Willemstad.

Curaçao Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Curaçao Travel Guide!

Date Visited: March 2015

Introduction

Curaçao lies just to the north of the coast of Venezuela, east of Aruba and west of Bonaire and is one of the three ‘ABC’ islands (Aruba, Bonaire & Curaçao), which are all former Dutch colonies and are now part of the Dutch Caribbean.

Old Town of Willemstad, Curaçao.

Old Town of Willemstad, Curaçao.

Location

Curaçao forms part of the southwestern arc of the Lesser Antilles island chain and is located just 60 km (37 mi) north of the South American mainland and Venezuela (click the link to view my Venezuela Travel Report).

Aruba lies 113 km (70 mi) to the west, while Bonaire lies 82 km (51 mi) to the east.

A colourful map of Curaçao adorns a souvenir beach towel.

A colourful map of Curaçao adorns a souvenir beach towel.

History

Colourful Dutch-style buildings line the iconic Handelskade in Willemstad, the capital of Curaçao.

Colourful Dutch-style buildings line the iconic Handelskade in Willemstad, the capital of Curaçao.

The island was originally inhabited by Arawak Indians until the Spanish arrived in 1499 and enslaved them. The Dutch then took control of the island in 1634.

The Dutch East Indies Company founded the capital, Willemstad. The island had always been ignored because it lacked gold deposits but the natural harbour at Willemstad was ideal for trade.

Curaçao Flag.

The flag of Curaçao.

Commerce, shipping and piracy became the most important activities on the island and the island became a centre of the slave trade in the Caribbean. When slavery was abolished, many former slaves remained on the island and today Curaçao is the only one of the ABC islands with a substantial Afro population.

Sunset at Jan Thiel beach, which lies on the south coast of Curacao.

Sunset at Jan Thiel beach, which lies on the south coast of Curacao.

Curaçao is the largest and most populated (150,000) of the ABC islands. Public transport is available but limited. The best way to explore is to hire a car. I spent five days touring the island but you could cover all the sites in 2-3 days at a relaxed pace.

While Aruba attracts mainly American tourists, Curaçao attracts mainly Dutch tourists, who account for 32% of arrivals.

The Melocactus is a cactus species common to Curaçao.

The Melocactus is a cactus species common to Curaçao.

Curaçao Liqueur

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The name “Curaçao” has become associated with a shade of blue, because of the deep-blue version of the liqueur named Curaçao.

Curaçao’s most popular alcoholic beverage was discovered by accident when the Spanish Valencia orange was brought to the island, but unable to flourish in the climate. Instead, a bitter-tasting orange – the Lahara – was spawned.

The genuine Curaçao liqueur is made of the peels of the Laraha. It is produced in 5 different colours, the original clear liqueur, the famous Blue, Green, Red and Orange.

The Laraha plantation is on the east side of the island and has just 45 trees. Each tree produces on average 150 to 200 fruits and are harvested twice a year.

Free factory visits are available at Landhuis Chobolobo in Willemstad from Monday to Friday.

Sightseeing

Willemstad

A view of the colourful Handelskade, Willemstad.

A view of the colourful Handelskade, Willemstad.

Formerly the capital of the Netherlands Antilles (dissolved in 2010), the capital and largest city of Curaçao (population: 125,000), Willemstad is located on a deep natural harbour.

Many Dutch colonists grew affluent from the slave trade, and the city built impressive colonial buildings. Curaçao architecture blends Dutch and Spanish colonial styles. The wide range of historic buildings in and around Willemstad has resulted in the capital being designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The iconic, Dutch-style, Penha House dominates the Handelskade in downtown Willemstad.

The iconic, Dutch-style, Penha House dominates the Handelskade in downtown Willemstad.

The historic city centre is small and compact and can be explored easily on foot in a day. The downtown area consists of two districts: Otrobanda, the cultural centre of the city and Punda, they are separated by the St. Anna bay inlet. Willemstad is build around a natural harbour called the ‘Schottegat’.

The St. Anna bay inlet is bridged by the Queen Emma Pontoon bridge. This floating bridge pivots open to allow small and large (container ships) to pass through into the harbour. This is a great place for photography.

The Dutch-style Penha House stands out like a yellow beacon on the colourful Handelskade in downtown Willemstad.

The Dutch-style Penha House stands out like a yellow beacon on the colourful Handelskade in downtown Willemstad.

In Punda you will find the colourful Handelskade, Amsterdam Fort, the main shopping area, the old food market (Plaz Bien), the oldest surviving (sand floor) synagogue in the Caribbean and the floating market, where boats come over from Venezuela to sell their produce. It’s all very lively and vibrant and worth the majority of your time in the city.

Display at the Kurá Hulanda Museum in Willemstad.

Display at the Kurá Hulanda Museum in Willemstad.

The highlight of Otrabanda (English: Other side) is the Kurá Hulanda Museum aka “Slave Museum”. The museum chronicles the origin of man, the African slave trade and West African empires. It is situated on the site of a former slave yard and merchant’s home.

Curaçao Beaches

The protected waters of Playa Lagun are popular with families and provide excellent snorkelling.

The protected waters of Playa Lagoon are popular with families and provide excellent snorkelling.

Like Aruba, the best swimming beaches are located on the protected leeward side of the island (west coast) rather than the exposed windward side (east coast).

Unlike Aruba, the Curaçao coastline is made up of many protected coves rather than long stretches of white sandy beaches. All of these coves provide excellent snorkeling and diving opportunities.

Shete Boka National Park

Curaçao Travel Guide: Natural limestone bridge in Shete Boka National Park, Curaçao.

Natural limestone bridge in Shete Boka National Park, Curaçao.

Worth a stop on the rugged east coast is this national park. Trails lead from a parking area to natural limestone bridges on the shore, sea-turtle sanctuaries, a big blowhole and isolated little beaches in narrow coves. Boka Tabla, a cave in the cliffs facing the water, is the most popular and closest walk.

The limestone here is razor sharp so good walking shoes are recommended – not your favourite pair of Havaianas.

Hato Caves

The interior of the Hato cave on Curaçao.

The interior of the Hato cave on Curaçao.

Located on the north side of the island, a short drive from the airport, the small Hato Cave is more than 300.000 years old, and has the distinction of being the largest cave on the island.

The cave has been open to visitors since 1990 and can be accessed by foot, after climbing 49 steps. Over millions of years, the island was formed in ‘terraces’ and while most caves are to be found in the second terrace, the Hato Cave is uniquely found in the third terrace of the island.

Accommodation

Sunset at Jan Thiel beach Curaçao.

Sunset at Jan Thiel beach Curaçao.

Like neighbouring Aruba, this tourist haven is loaded with accommodation options catering for all budgets. Unlike Aruba accommodation is scattered around the island rather than concentrated in one beach-side location.

High season prices apply from December to April. Willemstad is far more interesting than Oranjestad (Aruba) so staying in the capital is worth considering. While on the island, I stayed at Jan Thiel beach which is located at the southern end of the island. The Hibiscus Beach House is a friendly Dutch-run B&B, which I would highly recommend.

Best to book ahead using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

There are restaurants catering for all budgets scattered around the island.

One place worth exploring for cafes, bars, restaurants and nightlife is the trendy Willemstad neighbourhood of Pietersmaai

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Curaçao – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

Flights into Curaçao arrive at Curaçao International Airport (IATA: CUR) which is located on the north coast of Curaçao, 12 kilometres (7.5 mi) from Willemstad. The airport serves as a main base for Divi Divi Air as well as EZAir and offers daily connections to many islands in the Caribbean region, South America, North America and Europe.

The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from CUR:

Airport Transport

From the airport, taxis are available to any point on the island. There is no public transport from the airport but shuttle services can be booked. Your best option is to hire a car from the airport as public transport on the island is very limited.

By Sea

There are no scheduled ferry services connecting Curaçao to any other island. The only way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

Cruise Ships dock at one of two terminals (Mega Pier Cruise-Terminal and Mathey Wharf) which are relatively close to each other, both at walking distance to the main attractions of Willemstad. You can view the current Cruise Ship Schedule here.

Getting Around

Curaçao License Plate

The license plate of my rental car on Curaçao.

Bus services on the island are provided by Autobusbedrijf Curaçao. Public transport on Curaçao is very limited. The two major bus stations are at Punda and Otrobanda.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car. The island can be covered in a day if you rushed around but at a more leisurely pace would require 2-3 days.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Curaçao Travel Guide Curaçao Travel Guide Curaçao Travel Guide Curaçao Travel Guide Curaçao Travel Guide

Aruba Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
Dutch-style architecture in Oranjestad, Aruba.

Aruba Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Aruba Travel Guide!

Date of Visit: March 2015

Introduction

Aruba has branded itself “One Happy Island”. The island lies just north of the coast of Venezuela, and is one of the three ‘ABC’ islands (Aruba, Bonaire & Curaçao), which are all former Dutch colonies and are now part of the Dutch Caribbean.

Aruba Party Bus

An Aruba party bus.

A tourist haven, which is especially popular with American vacationers, the west coast (on the leeward side) is home to fine white, sand beaches and many large resorts. The east coast (on the windward side) is less popular due its exposed position with few sandy beaches and rough seas with treacherous currents.

Aruba Flag

The flag of Aruba.

The year-round temperature is almost constant at about 27°C with little rainfall. Aruba lies outside the Caribbean hurricane belt, making it the perfect playground for the sun-worshipping tourist.

Aruba Travel Guide: Eagle beach, Aruba.

The inviting white sands of Eagle beach, Aruba.

Location

Part of the ABC islands, along with Curaçao and Bonaire, Aruba lies 113 km (70 mi) to the west of Curaçao, and 189 km (102 mi) to the west of Bonaire.

A flat, dry, arid island (there are no rivers), Aruba is the 2nd smallest of the ABC islands (after Bonaire), being 30 km in length and 9 km wide at its widest point.

Turks Head Cactus, Aruba.

Turks Head Cactus, Aruba.

Sightseeing

Oranjestad

Dutch-style Architecture Aruba

Dutch-style architecture in downtown Oranjestad.

The capital and largest city on the island, Oranjestad (English: Orange Town) was built around Fort Zoutman shortly after it was built in 1796. The city was named in 1820 after King William I of the Netherlands. The compact city centre is a pleasant place to stroll and can easily be covered in half a day.

Aruba Flag Oranjestad

The flag of Aruba flying in downtown Oranjestad.

The port is able to accommodate three mega cruise ships at a time. This delivers up to 15,000 day-tripping tourists into the city of 35,000. Not surprisingly the main activities in the city are duty free shopping.

When ships are in town the crowded downtown area is best avoided.

Stadhuis (Town Hall), Oranjestad, Aruba.

The Dutch-style Town Hall (Stadhuis) in Oranjestad.

My favourite cafe in Oranjestad is De Suikertuin located at Wilheminastraat 64. This is a Dutch cafe offering a very good breakfast and lunch menu and excellent coffee.

De Suikertuin Cafe Aruba

The perfect cage, with the door always open, in the garden of ‘De Suikertuin’ cafe in Oranjestad.

Arikok National Park

Arawak Cave Paintings, Fontein Cave, Aruba.

Arawak cave paintings inside Fontein Cave.

The Arikok National Park takes up approximately 18 percent of the island and was one of the highlights of my visit. You should allow half a day in the park. The best way to see the park is with a hire car or by joining a local tour.

A view of Fontein cave, Aruba.

A view of Fontein cave, Aruba.

Inside the park are some of the island’s oldest Arawak cave paintings, which can be seen inside Fontein Cave.

Aruba Travel Guide: Aruban Whip-tail Lizard.

Indigenous Aruban whip-tail lizard

Some of the most visible of all the wildlife on the island are the lizards. The Aruban Whip-tail lizard can be seen in the National Park and elsewhere on the island.

Vader Piet Wind Farm, Aruba.

Wind turbines at the Vader Piet Wind Farm.

Beaches

Most visitors come to the island for one reason – the white powdery sand beaches. They mostly stay in the big resorts that are concentrated in one small area of the island from Palm Beach to Eagle Beach (featured on the main photo).

At the southern end of the island is Baby beach, which is situated in a protected cove and offers good snorkeling.

At the northern end of the island is Malmok beach, which is located in a residential neighbourhood and also offers good snorkeling.

Eagle Beach is one of the most inviting beaches on Aruba.

Eagle Beach is one of the most inviting beaches on Aruba.

Hiring snorkel gear on the island is not easy. Most resorts and hotels will lend equipment to their guests but do not rent. I found an aquatic shop on Eagle beach, which allowed me to hire gear, otherwise your only option is to purchase your equipment from a local dive shop.

The beaches on the windward side of the island are not protected and as such are exposed to fierce weather, strong currents and have mostly rocky shorelines.

Accommodation

This tourist haven is loaded with accommodation options catering for all budgets, from the huge five-star resorts strung along the white sand beaches of  Palm Beach and Eagle Beach to hostels in downtown Oranjestad.

High season prices apply from December to April.

I stayed inland at Paradera Park Apartments, which I would recommend for those who wish to self cater.

Best to book ahead using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

There are lots of restaurants around the island, especially in the beach-side resort areas of Palm Beach and Eagle Creek. In these areas you will find many American chain restaurants such as Hooters, Hard Rock Cafe etc.

Due to the presence of ostrich farms on the island, ostrich meat is also available.

Aruba Travel Guide: A curious ostrich at the Aruba Ostrich farm.

A curious ostrich at the Aruba Ostrich farm.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Aruba – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

Interior of Insel air flight from Manaus to Aruba.

Interior view of my Insel air flight from Manaus to Aruba, on which I was one of just two passengers.

By Plane

Flights into Aruba arrive at Queen Beatrix International Airport (IATA: AUA), which is located on the coast, 3 km south of Oranjestad. The airport serves as a hub for Aruba Airlines.

AUA has flight services to the United States, most countries in the Caribbean, the northern coastal countries of South America, Canada and some parts of Europe, notably the Netherlands. The airport offers US Border Pre-clearance facilities with American tourists accounting for 55% of all arrivals.

The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from AUA:

Airport Transport

From the airport, taxis are available to any point on the island.

If you wish to take a bus downtown you can do so at the bus stop on the main road outside the airport. Bus services on the island are provided by Arubus.

By Sea

There are no scheduled ferry services connecting Aruba to any other island. The only way to arrive by sea is by private yacht or cruise ship.

All cruise ships dock at the busy cruise ship port in downtown Oranjestad, a modern facility which can accommodate up to five ships at a time. The current Cruise Ship schedule is available here.

Getting Around

Aruba Travel Guide: My rental car on Aruba.

My rental car on Aruba.

Bus services on the island are provided by Arubus, however the network is not very comprehensive and does not cover the remote parts of the east coast.

Aruba License Plate

The license plate on my Aruba rental car.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a car. The island can be covered in a day if you rushed around but at a more leisurely pace would require 2-3 days.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Aruba Travel Guide Aruba Travel Guide Aruba Travel Guide Aruba Travel Guide