Tag - Central Asia

Afghanistan Photo Gallery

A view of the Blue Mosque in Mazar-i-Sharif.

Afghanistan Photo Gallery

This is an Afghanistan Photo Gallery from taste2travel.

To read about this destination, please refer to my Afghanistan Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 36 years and, 229 countries and territories, and seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


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Afghanistan Travel Guide

A young boy in Bamyan.

Afghanistan Travel Guide

This is an Afghanistan Travel Guide from taste2travel.com

Date Visited: August 2023

Introduction

Welcome to Afghanistan, a land where history, culture, and breathtaking landscapes converge to create an unforgettable travel experience.

While I had always dreamed of visiting this Asian jewel, and for many years had travelled along its borders, including in China, Pakistan, and Tajikistan, I was content to view Afghanistan from the safety of a neighbouring country.

The stunning Blue Mosque, in Mazar-i-Sharif, is made of blue hues of highly detailed mosaic tiles, inspired by Persian design.

The stunning Blue Mosque, in Mazar-i-Sharif, is made of blue hues of highly detailed mosaic tiles, inspired by Persian design.

For most of my lifetime, the news headlines emanating from Afghanistan were very negative and menacing, and still remain so today. Afghanistan has an image problem that not even the most adept PR company could hope to change.

For this reason, I had relegated a visit to Afghanistan to the ‘too-hard-basket‘.

However, after visiting almost all the countries and territories of the world, including many former conflict zones, I decided to bite the bullet (no pun intended) and plan a visit!

Road trips in mountainous Afghanistan offer incredible views.

Road trips in mountainous Afghanistan offer incredible views.

Since August of 2021, when the Taliban swept to power, and hugely embarrassed the US Military, who beat a hasty retreat, leaving behind an arsenal of the world’s most impressive weapons, the situation on the ground has changed significantly.

At that time, the former Islamic Republic of Afghanistan become the Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan, with the much-maligned Taliban forming a government.

The stunning Blue Mosque is a highlight of Mazar-i-Sharif.

The stunning Blue Mosque is a highlight of Mazar-i-Sharif.

One of the main priorities for the Taliban has been to restore a sense of safety and security to the country which had become a lawless land.

While almost everyone I spoke to does not accept the rule of the Taliban, who have an unfortunate habit of issuing draconian decrees, absolutely everyone agreed that they feel much safer and more secure due to the hardline the Taliban take against any criminal behavior.

As part of their security measures, all tourists to Afghanistan will only be issued with a tourism visa through the sponsorship of an Afghan-registered tour company.

The imposing walls of Herat Citadel.

The imposing walls of Herat Citadel.

Once inside the country, tourists, who must be accompanied by a guide, must report to the Department of Culture in each province they visit (there are 34 provinces in Afghanistan), where they will be issued with a ‘Travel Authorisation‘ for that province.

This authorisation will be requested whenever you visit a tourist sight, and at the numerous roadside checkpoints. Without this authorisation, you will have difficulties to move around the country.

An onerous, time-consuming task, this is done in the name of security! More information on this process is included in the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section below.

Recent Turmoil

A captured Soviet helicopter at the Jihad Museum in Herat.

A captured Soviet helicopter at the Jihad Museum in Herat.

While Afghanistan has a rich, complex history spanning thousands of years, Afghanistan’s recent history, since 1979, when the Soviet Union invaded to prop up a sympathetic government, has been dark and often violent.

The Jihad Museum in Herat, which details the period surrounding the Soviet invasion and occupation of Afghanistan, includes captured Soviet weapons such as helicopters and fighter jets.

The Soviet army’s 1989 withdrawal was followed by a civil war and domination by warlords.

That in turn gave rise to the Taliban, which seized power shortly before it was toppled by a U.S. invasion in retaliation for the Sept. 11, 2001, terrorist attacks.

A hand-woven Afghan carpet, commemorating "Operation Enduring Freedom", on sale in a souvenir shop in Herat.

A hand-woven Afghan carpet, commemorating “Operation Enduring Freedom”, on sale in a souvenir shop in Herat.

The 2001 terrorist attack on the World Trade Centre in New York City led to the commencement of ‘Operation Enduring Freedom’, the United States’ global War on Terror, which was fought in several countries, but primarily Afghanistan.

A view of the ceiling of the Gawhar Shad Mausoleum in Herat.

A view of the ceiling of the Gawhar Shad Mausoleum in Herat.

This operation began in October 2001 with the invasion of Afghanistan to dismantle the Taliban regime and eliminate al-Qaeda’s presence in the country. It involved a coalition of U.S. forces and international partners, including NATO.

Operation Enduring Freedom continued for many years, and its scope expanded to include counterinsurgency efforts against the Taliban, training and equipping Afghan security forces, and counterterrorism operations.

A view of the Great Mosque of Herat.

A view of the Great Mosque of Herat.

Eventually, the United States and NATO forces completed a very messy and hurried withdrawal from Afghanistan on August 31, 2021.

Since then, the Taliban have been in power, with the world waiting and watching to see what happens next in Afghanistan.

Conclusion

Afghanistan may not be a typical travel destination, but it offers intrepid travellers a chance to discover a land where history, culture, and natural beauty intertwine with the resilience of its people.

Colourful rolls of hand-woven cloth for sale at Herat bazaar.

Colourful rolls of hand-woven cloth for sale at Herat bazaar.

While travel here requires careful planning and awareness of the evolving security situation, the rewards are immense for those who embark on a journey to this unique destination.

If you do travel here, you should be prepared to see Taliban carrying their fully loaded AK-47s everywhere.

Whether meeting with the Taliban in a government office, to dining alongside them in a restaurant, guns are everywhere. They are always armed and ready to defend themselves against an attack!

Likewise, checkpoints throughout the country are numerous and often feature heavily armed Taliban and armoured, ex-US military, Humvees.

The empty niche, which was once occupied by the Eastern Buddha at Bamyan.

The empty niche, which was once occupied by the Eastern Buddha at Bamyan.

I look forward to returning again one day to Afghanistan as I feel I have simply scratched the surface of what is a complex, and immensely rewarding, travel destination.

Safety & Security

Afghanistan is a country with a troubled past, a country which has, and still does, face significant security challenges.

Most governments around the world advise against all travel to Afghanistan and regular travel insurance policies do not provide coverage for Afghanistan.

For many decades, the news headlines coming from Afghanistan have been very negative.

Most people would never consider travelling to Afghanistan and, while most Afghans agree that the security situation has improved under the Taliban, most outsiders wouldn’t consider travelling to a country which is controlled by the Taliban.

I spent 11 days in Afghanistan and, at no point, did I feel unsafe or in danger. While most Afghans do not recognise the rule of the Taliban, almost everyone I spoke to agreed that the security situation under the Taliban is the best it has been in decades.

This is due to the fact that the highly armed Taliban are highly visible on the streets, with checkpoints everywhere. Thanks to the US Military, who beat a hasty retreat from Afghanistan, the Taliban have use of the latest US weapons and lots of fully armed Humvees. All of this impressive hardware is on full display at the many checkpoints.

The message from the Taliban is clear – do not step out of line! The days of rogue operators kidnapping foreigners has past, as kidnappers know they will be shot if caught.

Security has been achieved at the barrel of the gun – which is invariably an AK-47! 

In each province, as a foreigner, I had to meet with the Taliban and obtain a Travel Authorisation (please refer to the Visa Requirements section below for more on this process) in order to visit the province.

In each meeting, I was greeted with respect and kindness. I was welcomed to Afghanistan and asked if I felt safe.

Security and safety are a big priority of the Taliban. I was told that the supreme leader has issued a decree to all Taliban that foreigners must be treated kindly and with respect. I can concur that most of the Taliban are following this directive.

Afghanistan is still very much in a state of flux and, while the Taliban would like to see more tourists visiting, the damage to the image of Afghanistan is so great that most potential tourists will not be planning a visit anytime soon.

The Taliban seem keen to be accepted by the world at large. However, it seems the only legitimate path forward for the Taliban is that they become a political party and then contest free and fair elections.

I would recommend Afghanistan to those intrepid travellers who have experience visiting other conflict zones.

While in the country, you will see lots of heavily armed Taliban (including sitting in their offices nursing their AK-47s), lots of armed vehicles and you will need ample patience as you negotiate the many, many checkpoints, body searches etc.

Location

Afghanistan is a landlocked country located in South Asia, Central Asia, and Western Asia. Its geographical location places it at a crossroads of several important regions and countries. Here’s a description of Afghanistan’s location:

Afghanistan is often considered a part of Central Asia, as it shares borders with several Central Asian countries, including Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan to the north. These mountainous and often rugged borders define Afghanistan’s northern boundary.

To the south, Afghanistan shares a border with Pakistan, which is classed as South Asia. The border between Afghanistan and Pakistan is a long and historically significant one, with multiple crossing points.

An incredible handwoven carpet in a restaurant in Mazar-i-Sharif features a map, and flags, of the world.

An incredible handwoven carpet in a restaurant in Mazar-i-Sharif features a map, and flags, of the world.

To the west, Afghanistan shares a border with Iran, which is classed as West Asia. Afghanistan was once part of the Persian empire and shares significant cultural and historical ties with Iran. The border with Iran extends through the western part of Afghanistan.

To the east, Afghanistan shares a relatively short border with China, which is part of East Asia. This border is located in the northeastern part of Afghanistan, in the Wakhan Corridor.

Afghanistan is characterised by its rugged and mountainous terrain, with the Hindu Kush mountain range running through the central part of the country.

This mountainous geography has historically contributed to Afghanistan’s isolation and played a role in shaping its culture and history.

On the road to Bamyan, Afghanistan.

On the road to Bamyan, Afghanistan.

One significant geographical feature of Afghanistan is that it is a landlocked country, meaning it has no coastline. Despite its lack of access to the sea, Afghanistan’s location at the crossroads of various regions has made it strategically important throughout history.

Afghanistan’s geographical location has both advantages and challenges. Its position has made it a historical trade and cultural crossroads, but it has also been a region of geopolitical significance, which has contributed to its complex history and political dynamics.

People

Two Pashtun men, exploring the ancient city walls in the town of Balkh,

Two Pashtun men, exploring the ancient city walls in the town of Balkh,

The people of Afghanistan are a diverse and ethnically rich population with a long history and a unique cultural heritage.

Like many of the inhabitants in Mazar-i-Sharif, my guide (right) and driver were from the Turkmen ethnic group.

Like many of the inhabitants in Mazar-i-Sharif, my guide (right) and driver were from the Turkmen ethnic group.

Afghanistan is known for its ethnic diversity, with several major ethnic groups, including:

  • Pashtuns: Pashtuns are the largest ethnic group in Afghanistan, and they have a significant presence in both urban and rural areas. They speak Pashto and have a strong cultural influence in the country. The members of the Taliban are predominantly Pashtuns.   
  • Tajiks: Tajiks are another major ethnic group in Afghanistan, primarily living in the northeastern and western parts of the country. They speak Dari (a variety of Persian) and have a rich cultural history.
  • Hazaras: Hazaras are a predominantly Shia Muslim ethnic group with a distinct Central Asian appearance. They primarily inhabit the central highlands of Afghanistan.
  • Uzbeks, Turkmen, and Baloch: These ethnic groups have smaller but significant populations in Afghanistan, often concentrated in specific regions.
While photographing older woman is not allowed in Afghanistan, younger girls are happy to be photographed.

While photographing older woman is not allowed in Afghanistan, younger girls are happy to be photographed.

The official languages of Afghanistan are Pashto and Dari (Persian). However, due to the country’s ethnic diversity, many other languages and dialects are spoken across the nation.

Young boys in Herat.

Young boys in Herat.

The vast majority of Afghans are Muslims, with Sunni Islam being the predominant branch. There is also a significant minority of Shia Muslims, primarily belonging to the Hazara ethnic group.

A young boy in Bamyan.

A young boy in Bamyan.

Afghan society traditionally places a strong emphasis on family and community values. Extended families often live together, and there is a strong sense of hospitality towards guests.

My guide in Kabul and Bamyan, Jamshyd, is a member of the Tajik ethnic group.

My guide in Kabul and Bamyan, Jamshyd, is a member of the Tajik ethnic group.

Female Travellers

While Afghanistan is a complicated travel destination, female travellers have to contend with an added layer of complexity which comes from not only being in an Islamic country, but being in a country where the (repressive) Taliban set the rules.

While as a solo male traveller, it’s difficult for me to relate to the female experience, I can offer some observations from what I experienced.

Observation 1:

Hijab must be worn by all females at all times!

When I was leaving Bamyan, we had to make the obligatory stop at the checkpoint on the outskirts of town. All checkpoints are manned by Taliban soldiers.

At the checkpoint, a religious policeman was advising a family, who were arriving in their car, that the nearby lake, Band-e Amir, was currently off limits to females.

This was due to a decree which had been issued by the supreme leader of the Taliban, banning female visitors to the lake, after some girls were found at the lake a couple of days earlier, without hijab!

Observation 2:

While at Bamyan, I was surprised to meet an Australian-Afghani family who were on holiday from Melbourne. They were excited to meet a fellow Australian in Afghanistan.

I offered for us to have a photo together in front of the giant Buddhas. The family thought this was a good idea but were then reminded of the Taliban rules – which prohibit females from interacting with males who are not family members.

In the end, they declined my offer, but allowed their younger daughter to have a photo with me!

Observation 3: 

While entering the Blue Mosque in Mazar-i-Sharif, the Taliban security guards asked my guide if I was travelling with any female companions.

The reason for this question was that the Taliban have a schedule for female visitors, and on the day, I was visiting, female visitors were not allowed inside the mosque compound.

For female visitors, I would highly recommend either travelling on an organised group tour or with a male companion.   

Flag

The flag of Afghanistan.

The flag of Afghanistan.

Official Flag of Afghanistan

The official flag of Afghanistan consists of three vertical stripes arranged from left to right: black, red, and green.

Black Stripe: The black stripe represents the dark past of Afghanistan. It symbolises the difficult and challenging periods in Afghanistan’s history.

Red Stripe: The red stripe represents the bloodshed and sacrifices made by Afghan people in their struggle for independence and freedom.

Green Stripe: The green stripe signifies hope for a bright future and prosperity for the nation. It represents the lush green landscape of Afghanistan and the hope for a peaceful and stable future.

In the centre of the red stripe, an emblem features a mosque with a pulpit and flags on either side, below which are Eastern Arabic numerals for the solar year 1298 (1919 in the Gregorian calendar, which marks Afghanistan’s independence from British influence).

Above the mosque is a pulpit with the Shahada (the Islamic declaration of faith) inscribed on it, below which are sheaves of wheat on either side.

This emblem represents Afghanistan’s Islamic heritage and its aspirations for a prosperous future.

Taliban Flag

The flag of the Taliban at the Blue Mosque in Mazer-i-Sharif.

The flag of the Taliban at the Blue Mosque in Mazer-i-Sharif.

The flag which is currently flown throughout Afghanistan is the white and black flag of the Taliban.

The flag of the Taliban, alongside the flag of my hotel in Herat.

The flag of the Taliban, alongside the flag of my hotel in Herat.

The flag features a white background with the Shahada (the Islamic declaration of faith) written in black.

Currency

The Afghan Afghani is the official currency of Afghanistan.

The Afghan Afghani is the official currency of Afghanistan.

The official currency of Afghanistan is the Afghan Afghani, which is often abbreviated as “Afs“.  The international currency code for Afghani is ‘AFN‘.

The currency of Afghanistan is issued by Da Afghanistan Bank – the Central bank of Afghanistan.

For those who are keen numismatists, the bank offers an informative PDF-format document which describes the evolution of currency in Afghanistan – covering all series of currency from ancient to modern times.

Featuring the Shrine of Ali at Mazar-i-Sharif, the 1,000 Afghani banknote is the highest denomination note.

Featuring the Shrine of Ali at Mazar-i-Sharif, the 1,000 Afghani banknote is the highest denomination note.

Banknotes are issued in denominations of Afs 10, 20, 50, 100, 500, and 1,000.

The Afghani is nominally subdivided into 100 puls, although there are no pul coins in circulation these days.

Costs

Menu prices, at the very fine, Bukhara Restaurant, in Kabul.

Menu prices, at the very fine, Bukhara Restaurant, in Kabul.

While travel costs in Afghanistan are totally reasonable, all visitors must join a tour in order to secure a visa and most tour companies are currently charging around US$300 per day, which is all inclusive.

Sample costs in Afghanistan:

Money Exchange

Both forex bureaux and money changers can be found everywhere in the major cities, with many money changers operating on the street.

While the exchange rate changes on a daily basis, during my stay, US$1 = 80 AFN.

Click here to view the current exchange rate.

Tour Companies

Due to the current travel restrictions under the Taliban government, it’s impossible for foreigners to travel independently to Afghanistan.

All trips must be organised through an Afghan-registered tour company.

Any trips organised by a foreign tour company will still need to use a local Afghan tour company.

However, the foreign companies will be adding their ‘middleman’ fee into the final cost of the tour.

Visiting Bamyan, with my informative guide, Jamshyd Aryan (left), the CEO of Afghan Safari Tours and Travels, and our driver, Omar.

Visiting Bamyan, with my informative guide, Jamshyd Aryan (left), the CEO of Afghan Safari Tours and Travels, and our driver, Omar.

In order to receive a visa for Afghanistan, applicants must provide a letter of invitation which must be issued by an Afghan-registered company.

This company must also provide a copy of their trading license which is issued by the Ministry of Culture in Kabul. A copy of the trading license will be requested by the Afghan embassy when you lodge your visa application.

All aspects of the visa application process are detailed in the ‘Visa Requirements‘ section below.

Exploring one of the niches of the (former) giant Buddhas at Bamyan with my guide, Jamshyd Aryan, and our driver, Omar.

Exploring one of the niches of the (former) giant Buddhas at Bamyan with my guide, Jamshyd Aryan, and our driver, Omar.

Upon arrival in Afghanistan, you will be met by the tour company and fully escorted – as per the security requirements of the Taliban government.

In every province you enter, you, and your tour company, will have meetings with the (Taliban) Ministry of Culture where you will be issued with a written travel authorisation for that province.

Without this travel authorisation, you are not free to travel anywhere.

I travelled with the amazing Jamshyd Aryan who is the CEO of Afghan Safari Tours and Travels.

You can contact Jamshyd Aryan at:

I would highly recommend travelling to Afghanistan with Afghan Safari Tours and Travels.

Sightseeing

The spectacular Blue Mosque in Mazar-i-Sharif is a highlight of Afghanistan.

The spectacular Blue Mosque in Mazar-i-Sharif is a highlight of Afghanistan.

Kabul

While Kabul served as a base for my trips to Herat, Bamyan and Mazar-i-Sharif, I spent little time in the city.

It seemed I always arrived late into the capital and then departed early the next morning for the next location.

I will cover Kabul on my next trip to Afghanistan.

Mazar-i-Sharif

The beautiful, Shrine of Hazrat Ali, also known as the Blue Mosque, is the highlight of Mazar-i-Sharif.

The beautiful, Shrine of Hazrat Ali, also known as the Blue Mosque, is the highlight of Mazar-i-Sharif.

Nestled in the northern plains of Afghanistan lies the historic city of Mazar-i-Sharif. According to tradition, the city of Mazar-i-Sharif owes its existence to a dream.

At the beginning of the 12th century, a local mullah had a dream in which Hazrat Ali ibn Abi Talib appeared to reveal that he had been secretly buried near the city of Balkh.

Mazar-i-Sharif‘, which is named after the Shrine of Hazrat Ali, translates as “the shrine of the magnificent“.

Known as Afghanistan’s Serene City of Spirituality, the famous poet and Sufi mystic, Jalal al-Din Rumi (known simply as ‘Rumi’) was born in the area. Rumi was famous for his poems, and other works, which widely influenced mystical thought, and literature, throughout the Muslim world.

The beautiful entrance to the Shrine of Hazrat Ali in Mazar.

The beautiful entrance to the Shrine of Hazrat Ali in Mazar.

Mazar is famous in Afghanistan for its fine cuisine and for producing the tastiest melons in the country. On my return flight to Kabul, many of my fellow passengers boarded the flight carrying a melon under their arm. It was a sweet-smelling flight!

While Mazar lies just 400 km northwest of Kabul, the journey, on a rough road, takes 9 hours, while flights from Kabul take just 50 mins. Most people chose to fly!

The Blue Mosque (Shrine of Hazrat Ali)

The present-day Blue Mosque dates from the 15th century (CE).

The present-day Blue Mosque dates from the 15th century (CE).

The Shrine of Hazrat Ali, also known as the Blue Mosque, is a mosque located in the heart of Mazar-i-Sharif.

It is one of the reputed burial places of Ali ibn Abi Talib, cousin and son-in law of Prophet Muhammad.

While Shia Muslims believe that the same Imam Ali is buried in a holy shrine in Najaf, Iraq (my Iraq Travel Guide features the shrine in Najaf), Sunni Muslims believe that shortly after the murder of Ali and the burial of his body at Najaf, some of Ali’s followers were worried that his body would be desecrated by his enemies.

To avoid this, they decided to relocate his body by placing his remains on a white female camel.

A view of the western gate at the Blue Mosque.

A view of the western gate at the Blue Mosque.

Ali’s followers traveled with the camel for several weeks, until the camel ultimately fell to the ground exhausted.

The body was then reburied where the camel fell, in present day Mazar. The body was said to be rediscovered there in the 12th century (CE).

The blue Mosque was constructed in a way to make it appear to be floating.

The blue Mosque was constructed in a way to make it appear to be floating.

The Shrine was first built in the 12th century (CE), but then destroyed by Genghis Khan in the 13th century (CE), and later rebuilt in the 15th century (CE).

A view of the western gate and the Blue Mosque.

A view of the western gate and the Blue Mosque.

When visiting the Shrine, visitors are required to present their local Travel Authorisation to the mosque guardian who occupies an office at the rear of the mosque.

The Blue Mosque was inspired by classic Persian design elements.

The Blue Mosque was inspired by classic Persian design elements.

Once you have been registered, you are free to visit the mosque compound, however, due to Taliban restrictions, non-Muslims are not allowed inside the mosque.

Balkh

A view of the countryside around Balkh, from atop the ancient city walls.

A view of the countryside around Balkh, from atop the ancient city walls.

A popular daytrip from Mazar is to the nearby ancient city of Balkh, which is located 20 km (12 mi) northwest of Mazar-e Sharif, and 74 km (46 mi) south of the Uzbekistan border.

Afghan boys playing cricket in Balkh. The Afghans love cricket!

Afghan boys playing cricket in Balkh. The Afghans love cricket!

Balkh is an ancient city, with a 2500-year long history, situated on the plain between the Hindu Kush Mountains and the river Amu Darya (historically known as the Oxus) in the north of Afghanistan.

The ancient, earthen, city walls still surround the modern town of Balkh.

The ancient, earthen, city walls still surround the modern town of Balkh.

Balkh was once one of the wealthiest and largest cities of Greater Khorasan.

The city was known to Persians as Zariaspa and to the Ancient Greeks as Bactra, giving its name to Bactria.

A settlement existed at the site as early as 500 BC, and the town was captured by Alexander the Great about 330 BC. Thereafter it was the capital of the Greek satrapy of Bactria.

It was in Balkh that Alexander the Great met his wife, Roxana, a Bactrian princess.

It is said that Alexander married Roxana after invading Persia and after his defeat of Darius, ruler of the Achaemenid Empire. Reportedly, Roxana was a young teenager at the time of her marriage to Alexander.

Young boys, at the tomb of the famous scholar Mullah Mohammad Jon in Balkh.

Young boys, at the tomb of the famous scholar Mullah Mohammad Jon in Balkh.

The great wanderer, Marco Polo, once described Balkh as a “noble and great city”.

Today, Balkh is, for the most part, a mass of ruins, with much of its former past buried under metres of mud and dust. A huge excavation project which has yet to be commenced.

The former Citadel, the Bala Hisar, is completely covered by centuries of mud and dust.

The modern town of Balkh, which offers a handful of sights, is home to a population of 140,000 souls.


Video: Travelling from Balkh to Mazar-i-Sharif. 

 


Ancient City Walls

A view from on top of the ancient city walls of Balkh.

A view from on top of the ancient city walls of Balkh.

Today, the traces of Balkh’s earthen walls can still be seen over a length of some 10 kilometres, to the north of which lies a secondary fortified area, the Bala Hisar

Lookout points on top of the ancient city walls offer panoramic views of the surrounding, rural, countryside.

Bala Hisar 

A curious, lone, tomb is installed on the former earthen wall of the Bala Hisar.

A curious, lone, tomb is installed on the former earthen wall of the Bala Hisar.

The Bala Hisar (former citadel) of Balkh is a fortified area within the larger walled enclosure of Balkh situated to the north of the modern city.

The guardian of the lone tomb at the Bala Hisar.

The guardian of the lone tomb at the Bala Hisar.

Abandoned today, the area marks the original location of the city of Balkh before its expansions in the Greek, Kushan, and Islamic periods.

The circular enclosure wall with half-round ramparts that stands today dates to the reoccupation of the site during the Timurid period in the 14th century (CE).

Mosque of Nine Cupolas

The 'Mosque of Nine Cupolas' is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The ‘Mosque of Nine Cupolas’ is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Located in the ancient town of Balkh, the Haji Piyada Mosque (“Mosque of Nine Cupolas”) is a Samanid-style building which dates from the 9th century (CE).

The mosque is thought to be the earliest Islamic building in the country.

Carbon dating conducted in early 2017, together with historical sources, suggest it could have been built as early as the year 794, on the site of a former Zoroastrian temple.

The 'Mosque of Nine Cupolas' is believed to have been built on the site of a former Zoroastrian temple.

The ‘Mosque of Nine Cupolas’ is believed to have been built on the site of a former Zoroastrian temple.

The interior is divided into nine bays, each originally covered by a dome – the nine cupolas.

The columns and the arches that divide the bays are decorated in deeply carved stucco, depicting a wide variety of designs, stylistically comparable to Abbasid decoration in Mesopotamia.

The 'Mosque of the Nine Cupolas' features deeply carved stucco design.

The ‘Mosque of the Nine Cupolas’ features deeply carved stucco design.

Pilgrims visit the tomb of saint, Haji Piyada, who was also buried there.

As part of conservation efforts, in 2011, a large temporary metal roof was constructed in order to protect the site from rain, wind and other natural disasters.

In order to visit the mosque, which is locked behind a security fence, your guide will need to seek permission from the Taliban guards who can be found in an office at the front of the property.

They will want to see a copy of your travel authorisation from Mazar and will want to keep a photocopy of the document. Since we didn’t have a copy, we had to drive the Taliban guard into town to get a copy then drive him back to the mosque – a 10 km roundtrip.

Khwaja Abu Nasr Parsa (Green Mosque)

The Green Mosque in Balkh, where Abu Nasr Parsa is buried.

The Green Mosque in Balkh, where Abu Nasr Parsa is buried.

Located in the centre of a leafy, green park in downtown Balkh, the Green Mosque is the burial place of Khwaja Abu Nasr Parsa (died 1461), a 15th-century Sufi mystic.

The shrine was built around 1598 and has an octagonal plan of two stories with axial Iwans and corner rooms.

A view of the entrance to the Green Mosque in Balkh.

A view of the entrance to the Green Mosque in Balkh.

Khwaja Abu Nasr Parsa was a spiritual leader of the Naqshbandi order and a theological lecturer in Herat.

A view of the very dilapidated Khwaja Abu Nasr Parsa (Green Mosque) in Balkh.

A view of the very dilapidated Khwaja Abu Nasr Parsa (Green Mosque) in Balkh.

Today, the mosque has suffered heavily from neglect and damage by warring factions during the Soviet and Afghan civil wars.

The minaret has either collapsed due to the age of the building or could have been the act of aggression during wartime by the communists. Much of the tile work has disappeared and everything is in dire need of repair.

Visiting inside the mosque is not allowed.

Tomb of Rabia Balkhi

The tomb of Rabia Balkhi, a celebrated, 10th century, female poet.

The tomb of Rabia Balkhi, a celebrated, 10th century, female poet.

Located in the same park, in front of the Green Mosque, is the sunken Tomb of Rabia Balkhi.

Rabia Balkhi was a 10th-century writer, who composed poetry in Persian and Arabic. She is the first known female poet to write in Persian.

Sadly, Rabia was a victim of an honour killing by her brother Hareth, after she fell in love with one of her brother’s slaves. She apparently wrote her last poems in her own blood.

After her death, all her poems were destroyed by her brother. Her tomb has become a spiritual place for Sufis.

Herat

A view of the front entrance of the Great Mosque of Herat.

A view of the front entrance of the Great Mosque of Herat.

Welcome to Herat, a city that embodies the essence of Afghanistan’s rich cultural heritage. Known as the “Pearl of Khorasan” and celebrated for its stunning architecture, vibrant bazaars and its imposing citadel.

Worshippers at the Great Mosque of Herat.

Worshippers at the Great Mosque of Herat.

UNESCO is presently considering the nomination of Herat as a World Heritage Site.

Great Mosque of Herat

The white marble courtyard of the Great Mosque of Herat, with a view of three of the four <i>Iwans.

The white marble courtyard of the Great Mosque of Herat, with a view of three of the four Iwans.

Known also as the Herat Central Blue Mosque, or the Friday Mosque, or the Jami Masjid of Herat, this mosque lies at the heart of the city, surrounded on all sides by a sprawling, bustling and fascinating bazaar.

A view of one of the <i>Iwans</i> at the Great Mosque of Herat.

A view of one of the Iwans at the Great Mosque of Herat.

The Great Mosque of Herat was the city’s first congregational mosque. It was built on a site where religious temples had been located for many centuries.

Like most ancient mosques in the region, the Great Mosque of Herat was built over a former Zoroastrian temple.

Like most ancient mosques in the region, the Great Mosque of Herat was built over a former Zoroastrian temple.

The first known building was a Zoroastrian temple, which was converted into a mosque in the 7th century.

Detail of tilework at the Great Mosque of Herat.

Detail of tilework at the Great Mosque of Herat.

Afterward, it was enlarged by the Turkic Ghaznavids. The mosque was built by the Ghurids, under the rule of Sultan Ghiyath al-Din Muhammad Ghori, who laid its foundation in 1200 CE.

A stone memorial marker is installed outside the entrance of the Great Mosque of Herat.

A stone memorial marker is installed outside the entrance of the Great Mosque of Herat.

The Ghurids built the entire mosque using brick. The layout is a typical 4-iwan plan with an interior courtyard and a water basin.

A view of the Great Mosque of Herat.

A view of the Great Mosque of Herat.

Later, it was extended several times as Herat changed rulers down the centuries from the Kartids, Timurids, Mughals and then the Uzbeks, all of whom supported the mosque.

A view of the main <i>Iwan</i> at the Great Mosque of Herat.

A view of the main Iwan at the Great Mosque of Herat.

The fundamental structure of the mosque from the Ghurid period has been preserved, but parts have been added and modified. The mosque was given its present appearance during the 20th century.

A view of the back entrance of the Great Mosque of Herat.

A view of the back entrance of the Great Mosque of Herat.

Access to the mosque is granted by Taliban security guards after they have reviewed your travel authorisation, which is issued by the Department of Culture in Herat. 

Herat Citadel

An iconic sight in Herat, the imposing Citadel of Herat, also known as the Citadel of Alexander.

An iconic sight in Herat, the imposing Citadel of Herat, also known as the Citadel of Alexander.

The Citadel of Herat, also known as the Citadel of Alexander, is located in the centre of Herat in Afghanistan.

The impressive Citadel was constructed by Alexander the Great, who arrived in Herat in 330 BC.

The impressive Citadel was constructed by Alexander the Great, who arrived in Herat in 330 BC.

It dates back to 330 BC, when Alexander the Great and his army arrived to what is now Afghanistan after the Battle of Gaugamela.

Damaged by decades of war, the citadel was completely renovated from 2006 to 2011.

Damaged by decades of war, the citadel was completely renovated from 2006 to 2011.

Many empires have used it as a headquarters in the last 2,000 years, and it was destroyed and rebuilt many times over the centuries.

The oldest building in Herat, the citadel is believed to stand on the foundations of a fort built by Alexander the Great.

The oldest building in Herat, the citadel is believed to stand on the foundations of a fort built by Alexander the Great.

The citadel is built on an artificial mound and stretches 250m east to west. Its 18 towers rise over 30m above street level, with walls 2m thick.

The present structure was largely built by Shah Rukh in 1415, after Timur trashed what little Genghis Khan had left standing.

Fragments of tiles, which once featured a poem, can be seen on the northwest wall, the so-called ‘Timurid Tower’.

Fragments of tiles, which once featured a poem, can be seen on the northwest wall, the so-called ‘Timurid Tower’.

The exterior of the citadel was once covered with tiles which featured Kufic script, with a poem proclaiming the castle’s grandeur. Today, fragments of these tiles can be seen on the northwest wall, the so-called ‘Timurid Tower’.

Exploring Herat Citadel.

Exploring Herat Citadel.

Khwaja Abdullah Ansari Shrine

A view of the shrine of Khwaja Abdullah Ansari.

A view of the shrine of Khwaja Abdullah Ansari.

Located in Herat, Khwaja Abdullah Ansari Shrine is the funerary compound of the Sufi saint Khwaja Abdullah Ansari.

The shrine of Khwaja Abdullah Ansari.

The shrine of Khwaja Abdullah Ansari.

The shrine was erected in 1425, under the patronage of Shah Rukh, the ruler of the Timurid dynasty.

A detailed view of one of the <i>Iwans</i> at the Shrine of Khwaja Abdullah Ansari complex.

A detailed view of one of the Iwans at the Shrine of Khwaja Abdullah Ansari complex.

He commissioned the site as a memorial mausoleum for patron-saint Khwaja Abdullah Ansari who was a Sufi mystic and patron saint of Herat.

The shrine of Khwaja Abdullah Ansari is surrounded by the tombs of other Islamic elites.

The shrine of Khwaja Abdullah Ansari is surrounded by the tombs of other Islamic elites.

Surrounding the mausoleum are the tombs of many local Islamic elites, who wished to be buried alongside the revered Sufi saint.

Tombs at the Shrine of Khwaja Abdullah Ansari are installed everywhere, including inside the Iwans.

Tombs at the Shrine of Khwaja Abdullah Ansari are installed everywhere, including inside the Iwans.

Musallah Minarets of Herat

Four of the five, 55-metre-high, 15th century, Musallah Minarets of Herat.

Four of the five, 55-metre-high, 15th century, Musallah Minarets of Herat.

The Musalla complex, also known as the Musalla of Gawhar Shah, is a former Islamic religious complex located in the suburbs of Herat.

The complex contains examples of Timurid architecture, much of which lies in ruin.

Shah Rukh, the ruler of the Timurid Empire, made Herat the capital of his empire in 1405, moving it from Samarkand.

Construction on the complex began in 1417 under Queen Gawharshad, the wife of Timurid ruler Shah Rukh.

Towering above the surrounding neighbourhood are 5 impressive, 55-metre-high minarets which date from the 15th Century (CE).

During the Panjdeh incident of 1885, Russian soldiers attacked Afghan soldiers southeast of Merv. Most of the buildings in the complex were leveled by the British and Emir Abdur Rahman Khan in order to prevent the Russians from using the buildings as cover.

Only the Gawhar Shad Mausoleum and nine of the original twenty minarets were allowed to remain.

A view of the Gawhar Shad Mausoleum in Herat.

A view of the Gawhar Shad Mausoleum in Herat.

The complex is also home to the Gawhar Shad Mausoleum and the Mausoleum of Ali-Shir Nava’i which was rebuilt in 1955.

Gawhar Shad Mausoleum

A view of the dilapidated dome of the Gawhar Shad Mausoleum.

A view of the dilapidated dome of the Gawhar Shad Mausoleum.

The Gawhar Shad Mausoleum, also known as the Tomb of Baysunghur, is an Islamic burial structure located in the Musalla complex.

The smallest tombstone belongs to the infant <i>Prince Baysunghur.

The smallest tombstone belongs to the infant Prince Baysunghur.

Built in the 15th century, the structure served as a royal tomb for members of the Timurid dynasty and was originally built as a mausoleum for the young Prince Baysunghur, a son of the Timurid ruler Shah Rukh.

A view of the ceiling of the Gawhar Shad Mausoleum in Herat.

A view of the ceiling of the Gawhar Shad Mausoleum in Herat.

The mausoleum forms a cruciform shape, with a dome covering the centre. This dome is the most impressive feature of the structure, in that it is actually three domes superimposed over one another: a low inner dome, a bulbous outer cupola and a structural dome between them.

A view of the front entrance of the Gawhar Shad Mausoleum.

A view of the front entrance of the Gawhar Shad Mausoleum.

Mausoleum of Ali-Shir Nava’i

The rebuilt <i>Mausoleum of Ali-Shir Nava'i</i> in Herat.

The rebuilt Mausoleum of Ali-Shir Nava’i in Herat.

Located next to the Gawhar Shad Mausoleum is the Mausoleum of Ali-Shir Nava’i, who was one of the most influential Timurid nobles of Herat.

Alisher Nava’i was born in 1441, in Herat, to a family of well-read Turkic chancery scribes.

During Alisher’s lifetime, Herat was ruled by the Timurid Empire and became one of the leading cultural and intellectual centres in the Muslim world.

Interior view of the <i>Mausoleum of Ali-Shir Nava'i</i> in Herat.

Interior view of the Mausoleum of Ali-Shir Nava’i in Herat.

Alisher belonged to the Chaghatai mir class of the Timurid elite. He was a protagonist of the Chaghatai Turki language and a great patron of the arts.

Because of his distinguished Chaghatai language poetry, Nava’i is considered by many throughout the Turkic-speaking world, to be the founder of early Turkic literature.

Many places and institutions in Central Asia are named after him.

Herat Jihad Museum

The Jihad Museum in Herat details Afghanistan's struggle against the Soviet invasion in the 70's and 80's.

The Jihad Museum in Herat details Afghanistan’s struggle against the Soviet invasion in the 70’s and 80’s.

Located on the outskirts of Herat, the Jihad Museum was built in 2010 as a place for Afghans to understand past conflicts and their history.

The museum seeks to inform visitors of the mujahideen’s resistance and to educate Afghans.

It is a memorial to the mujahideen who fought the Soviets in the 70s and 80s as well as to the Afghans who lost their lives fighting.

The museum is designed as a blue, green and white rotunda. The outside of the building is inscribed with some of the names of victims of the war, both men and women.

A captured Soviet tank and a fighter jet, on display at the Jihad Museum.

A captured Soviet tank and a fighter jet, on display at the Jihad Museum.

Located in a park on a hilltop, the Jihad Museum is surrounded by a garden with flowers and fountains and captured Soviet military equipment, including tanks, a fighter jet and helicopters.

Inside, the museum exhibits a large collection of Russian rifles, grenades and plastic land mines on display.

The 'Portrait Hall of Fame' displays portraits of over 60 Afghan commanders who fought the Soviets.

The ‘Portrait Hall of Fame’ displays portraits of over 60 Afghan commanders who fought the Soviets.

The Portrait Hall of Fame displays portraits of over 60 Afghan commanders who fought the Soviets.

A highlight of the Jihad Museum is a 360° diorama which depicts Afghan villagers rising up against Soviet soldiers.

A highlight of the Jihad Museum is a 360° diorama which depicts Afghan villagers rising up against Soviet soldiers.

The highlight is the amazing 360° diorama which depicts Afghan villagers rising up against Soviet soldiers. The stages of battles end in a mujahideen victory and the eventual Soviet withdrawal from Afghanistan.

A gallery of Afghan commanders.

A gallery of Afghan commanders.

The museum provides a fascinating insight into a dark period of Afghanistan’s history.

Herat Bazaar

Colourful, hand-woven, rolls of textiles at a shop inside Herat bazaar.

Colourful, hand-woven, rolls of textiles at a shop inside Herat bazaar.

Herat is home to one of the oldest and largest bazaars in Asia.

Faux-gold bangles for sale at Herat bazaar.

Faux-gold bangles for sale at Herat bazaar.

Sprawling around the Great Mosque of Herat, this bustling market is a treasure trove of traditional Afghan crafts, spices, exquisite carpets, hand-woven textiles and so much more.

A spice seller at Herat bazaar.

A spice seller at Herat bazaar.

Herat Bazaar is a great place to buy souvenirs and gifts that reflect Afghan culture and heritage. Many shops sell Afghan antique items at very reasonable prices.

Traditional children's clothing for sale at Herat bazaar.

Traditional children’s clothing for sale at Herat bazaar.

Herat Bazaar is renowned for its rich cultural heritage, vibrant atmosphere, and the diverse range of goods and products it offers to both locals and visitors.

"Afghanistan" souvenir fridge magnets on sale at Herat bazaar.

“Afghanistan” souvenir fridge magnets on sale at Herat bazaar.

The bazaar has a long history dating back to ancient times. It has been a prominent trading hub along the Silk Road, connecting Asia, the Middle East, and Europe.

Souvenirs of Afghanistan at Herat bazaar.

Souvenirs of Afghanistan at Herat bazaar.

While there is plenty of shopping to be done at the bazaar, a visit is more of a cultural experience and a great opportunity to interact with local Heratis who are renowned for their warm hospitality.

Bamyan

A place of incredible natural beauty, Bamyan is known for its giant Buddha statues which were, unfortunately, destroyed by the Taliban in 2001.

A place of incredible natural beauty, Bamyan is known for its giant Buddha statues which were, unfortunately, destroyed by the Taliban in 2001.

Tucked away amidst the rugged central highlands of Afghanistan lies the enchanting Bamiyan Valley, a place where history, culture, and natural beauty converge.

A view of the Bamyan Valley, from the Eastern Buddha.

A view of the Bamyan Valley, from the Eastern Buddha.

Bamyan Province is situated in the central part of Afghanistan, approximately 230 kilometres (143 mi) west of the capital, Kabul. It is surrounded by the Hindu Kush mountain range.

A view of the sandstone cliff at Bamyan, and the niche of the larger Western Buddha.

A view of the sandstone cliff at Bamyan, and the niche of the larger Western Buddha.

Known for its (now destroyed) giant Buddha statues, stunning landscapes, and warm hospitality, Bamiyan beckons intrepid travelers to explore its hidden treasures.

 The Buddhas of Bamiyan

A young Afghan hipster, in front of the Eastern Buddha niche.

A young Afghan hipster, in front of the Eastern Buddha niche.

The once colossal Buddha statues were carved into the sandstone cliffs of the Bamiyan Valley, over 1,500 years ago. At the time, these statues were among the largest standing Buddhas in the world.

Carbon dating of the structural components of the Buddhas has determined that the smaller 38 m (125 ft) “Eastern Buddha” was built around 570 CE, and the larger 55 m (180 ft) “Western Buddha” was built around 618 CE.

The intricate details and features of the Buddhas showcased the craftsmanship and artistic abilities of the ancient Bamiyan people.

One of many niches carved into the cliff, which feature dome ceilings and carved walls.

One of many niches carved into the cliff, which feature dome ceilings and carved walls.

Also lining the cliff are numerous other niches which once contained smaller statues. Some of the niches feature intricately carved walls and domed ceilings.

The empty niche, which was once occupied by the Western Buddha at Bamyan.

The empty niche, which was once occupied by the Western Buddha at Bamyan.

On orders from Taliban founder Mullah Omar, the statues were destroyed in March 2001, after the Taliban government declared that they were un-Islamic and idolatrous. International and local opinion strongly condemned the destruction of the Buddha

Fragments, from the destroyed Western Buddha, have been covered, pending future restoration.

Fragments, from the destroyed Western Buddha, have been covered, pending future restoration.

Today, visitors can view the empty niches and large fragments of the destroyed buddhas which are housed in protective shelters.

Since the destruction of the Buddhas of Bamyan, there have been international efforts to document and reconstruct these iconic statues in some form. However, the process has been fraught with challenges due to the political and security situation in Afghanistan.

A precipitous staircase, carved into the sides of the cliff, allows visitors to climb up and over the smaller Eastern Buddha.

A precipitous staircase, carved into the sides of the cliff, allows visitors to climb up and over the smaller Eastern Buddha.

A precipitous staircase allows visitors to climb up and over the smaller Eastern Buddha. The views of the Bamiyan countryside, from the top of the Buddha, are spectacular.

A view of the Bamyan Valley, from the top of the Eastern Buddha.

A view of the Bamyan Valley, from the top of the Eastern Buddha.

The steep climb to the top of the Eastern Buddha provides an unforgettable, panoramic view of the very green Bamyan Valley.

The empty niche, which was once occupied by the Eastern Buddha at Bamyan.

The empty niche, which was once occupied by the Eastern Buddha at Bamyan.

The Buddhas of Bamyan were once iconic symbols of Afghanistan’s cultural and religious diversity. Their destruction remains a somber reminder of the impact of ideological extremism on cultural heritage and the need to preserve such treasures for future generations.

Shahr-e Gholghola (The City of Screams) 

A view of Shahr-e Gholghola, also known as the "City of Screams".

A view of Shahr-e Gholghola, also known as the “City of Screams”.

Located on the opposite side of the valley to the Buddhas, Shahr-e Gholghola is a UNESCO World Heritage Site which is more famously known as the “City of Screams“.

A view of Bamyan from the City of Screams.

A view of Bamyan from the City of Screams.

Once the centre of Bamyan, this ancient mudbrick settlement was besieged by Mongol invaders during Genghis Khan’s invasion in the 13th century.

A view of Bamyan, from the City of Screams.

A view of Bamyan, from the City of Screams.

During the fighting, Mutukan, the favourite grandson of Genghis Khan, was killed by an arrow fired from the besieged walls of the city.

This, naturally, upset Genghis, who then ordered the entire population to be massacred, which gave the city its famous moniker – “City of Screams”.

An old watch tower overlooks Bamyan Valley at the City of Screams.

An old watch tower overlooks Bamyan Valley at the City of Screams.

Journey to Bamyan

The main highway from Kabul to Bamyan, winds its way through the central highlands of Afghanistan.

The main highway from Kabul to Bamyan, winds its way through the central highlands of Afghanistan.

The road journey from Kabul to Bamyan is a picturesque and adventurous drive through the heart of the country, offering stunning views of rugged mountains, deep valleys, and historical sites along the way.

On the road to Bamyan from Kabul on the northern route.

On the road to Bamyan from Kabul on the northern route.

There are two possible routes between Kabul and Bamyan, both are incredibly scenic, passing through the central highlands and the Hindu Kush:

  1. The southern route, which involves a journey of 3 hours 38 minutes (180.6 km), via the Kabul-Behsud Highway.
  2. The northern route, which involves a journey of 4 hours 25 minutes (232 km), via the A77.
The northern route passes through a narrow gorge in the Hindu Kush.

The northern route passes through a narrow gorge in the Hindu Kush.

Not too long ago, the road journey from Kabul to Bamyan would have been considered too risky due to the risk of kidnapping and improvised explosive device (IED) attacks.

Today, with the former insurgents now in government, all is calm!

Mineral rich, fresh mountain water, has stained the rocks in this roadside gorge.

Mineral rich, fresh mountain water, has stained the rocks in this roadside gorge.

Accommodation

All of the following accommodation options were pre-booked, by a tour company, as part of my tour package to Afghanistan.

Kabul

My spacious, windowless, room at the Kabul City Walk Hotel.

My spacious, windowless, room at the Kabul City Walk Hotel.

While in Kabul, I stayed at the centrally located Kabul City Walk Hotel. While some rooms feature windows, I was always assigned a windowless room.

As is typical in Afghanistan, this hotel has awarded itself 4-stars, but, in the real world, it would be a 2-star hotel!

Like most buildings in Afghanistan, the entrance to the hotel is fortified, with guests entering off the street, through an attack-proof annex where all bags are searched by hand – including turning on your camera to prove that it’s a camera. Also included for good measure is a body pat-down, before you proceed through a metal detector.

Breakfast at the Kabul City Walk Hotel.

Breakfast at the Kabul City Walk Hotel.

A decent buffet breakfast is offered each morning in the restaurant on the 9th floor. For those who are staying in windowless rooms, the restaurant offers panoramic views of Kabul.

The staff at the Kabul City Walk Hotel were friendly and professional, and the service was good. The hotel served as my base during my visit to Afghanistan.

Mazar-i-Sharif

The old and dated, Sameer Waleed Guest House in Mazar-i-Sharif.

The old and dated, Sameer Waleed Guest House in Mazar-i-Sharif.

While in Mazar, I stayed at the less-than-impressive, Sameer Waleed Guest House.

While my tour package included hotel accommodation, I somehow ended up in this old and faded, downbeat guest house. There are many other better options in Mazar.

Tip: When booking a tour, you should ask which hotels you will be accommodated in so that you can pre-check and avoid any disappointment.

My old and dated room at the Sameer Waleed Guest House in Mazar-i-Sharif.

My old and dated room at the Sameer Waleed Guest House in Mazar-i-Sharif.

The guest house, which is primarily used by visiting local families, features old and dated rooms with very uncomfortable beds.

Breakfast was served each morning in my room and consisted of a piece of bread, a packet of jam and two teas bags.

Best to stay elsewhere!

Herat

In Herat, I stayed at the Nazary Hotel, which like the Kabul City Walk Hotel, displays 4-stars, but would be rated as a 2-star hotel in the real world.

Comfortable and spacious rooms offer views of downtown Herat while a buffet breakfast is served on the top floor.

Like other hotels in Afghanistan, security is tight, with guests first entering the hotel through a secure annex, where all luggage is thoroughly searched and a body pat-down is done. From the annex, you then proceed to reception.

Bamyan

In Bamyan, I stayed at the Bamyan Royal Hotel, which is one of the better hotels in town, with each room offering a balcony with a view to the Bamyan Buddhas.

Like most hotels in Afghanistan, the Bamyan Royal Hotel offers dated, but decent, rooms, with a complimentary breakfast served in the ground floor restaurant.

Unlike other hotels in the country, security here is more relaxed, with security guards on the main gate performing a cursory check of any vehicles entering the property.

Eating Out

Enjoying a typical Afghan lunch with my guide, Jamshyd (left) and my driver, Jaleel, at the Jumairah restaurant in Kabul.

Enjoying a typical Afghan lunch with my guide, Jamshyd (left) and my driver, Jaleel, at the Jumairah restaurant in Kabul.

Cuisine

Afghan cuisine is a rich and diverse culinary tradition that reflects the country’s history, geography, location and cultural influences.

It has been shaped by a blend of Persian, Indian, Central Asian, and Middle Eastern flavors, resulting in a unique and flavourful array of dishes.

Enjoying a plate of <i>Kabuli Pulao</i> in Kabul.

Enjoying a plate of Kabuli Pulao in Kabul.

Afghan cuisine often features rice dishes, with the most famous being Kabuli Pulao. This dish consists of aromatic long-grain rice cooked with lamb or beef, carrots, and raisins, garnished with nuts.

Afghan bread, known as naan, is a staple in the Afghan diet. It’s typically baked in a tandoor oven and can be round or oblong in shape. One of the best breads in Afghanistan is Naan Mazari.


Naan Mazari

Freshly baked Naan Mazari.

Freshly baked Naan Mazari.

Naan Mazari is a special type of bread from North Afghanistan, specifically Mazar-i-Sharif.

To those who have travelled in Central Asia, or Western China, this style of bread will be very familiar.

Naan Mazari is baked in a clay, tandoor, oven.

Naan Mazari is baked in a clay, tandoor, oven.

Naan Mazari is first shaped by the baker with a unique pattern imprinted into the top of the bread.

Naan Mazari baking inside a tandoor oven.

Naan Mazari baking inside a tandoor oven.

The bread is then baked inside a clay tandoor oven until it’s golden brown.

All meals in Mazar-i-Sharif are served with freshly baked Naan Mazari.

A kebab meal, at the Bilal restaurant in Mazar-i-Sharif, is served with freshly baked Naan Mazari.

Many restaurants in Mazar-i-Sharif, including the very good Bilal restaurant, have their own in-house bakeries and will always serve their meals with freshly baked Naan Mazari.


As for meat, lamb and chicken are the most commonly consumed meats, with goat and beef also being popular choices.

Meat is invariably cooked in the form of kebabs and always served with bread and a side salad of tomato and cucumber.  Kebabs are often marinated in yogurt and spices before grilling.

An amazing cup of Doogh, served at a restaurant in Mazar-i-Sharif.

An amazing cup of Doogh, served at a restaurant in Mazar-i-Sharif.

Doogh is a popular, traditional, yogurt-based drink, sometimes flavored with mint and served cold. This is also known as Ayran in Turkey and throughout Central Asia. A very tasty complement to any meal!


Mantu

One of my favourite dishes in Afghanistan - Mantu.

One of my favourite dishes in Afghanistan – Mantu.

Steamed dumplings are a popular staple throughout Central Asia, including in Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Kyrgyzstan (click to read my travel guides for those countries), where they are known as Manty.

However, in my humble opinion, the best steamed dumplings are served in Afghanistan, where they are known as Mantu.

Mantu is a thin dough that is filled with beef, or lamb, mixed in onions and spices.

What sets Afghan Mantu apart is the orange topping sauce, which is made from chaka (thick creamy strained yogurt), mixed with lentils.

This sauce is missing in the other countries and certainly complements the Mantu perfectly!


Being a huge country, with a diverse population, and located at a crossroads in Asia, Afghan cuisine varies from region to region due to local influences.

Overall, Afghan cuisine offers a wide range of flavours and dishes, making it a fascinating and delicious aspect of Afghan culture.

Restaurants /Cafés

Kabul

Excellent Afghan cuisine is served at the Bukhara Restaurant in downtown Kabul.

Excellent Afghan cuisine is served at the Bukhara Restaurant in downtown Kabul.

There are many fine restaurants in Kabul, including the excellent Bukhara restaurant, The Cafeteria and the Jumairah restaurant. All of these restaurants are located in close proximity to each other.

Mazar-i-Sharif

Sharing dinner with Munir and Hamid, my guide (left) and driver, at Bilal Restaurant in Mazar.

Sharing dinner with Munir and Hamid, my guide (left) and driver, at Bilal Restaurant in Mazar.

Mazar-i-Sharif is the food capital of Afghanistan, with Afghans flocking here to sample the many delectable offerings from amazing Sheer Yakh (Afghan Kulfi ice cream), to the delicious, always freshly baked, Naan Mazari bread – both of which are featured below.

A specialty of the Bilal restaurant is a plate of succulent grilled lamb, served with salad.

A specialty of the Bilal restaurant is a plate of succulent grilled lamb, served with salad.

There are many fine restaurants in Mazar, however, repeat visits were made to the excellent, and always busy, Bilal restaurant where I enjoyed delicious meals with my guide, Munir and driver, Hamid.

The restaurant is very popular with local Taliban officials who always dine alongside their, fully loaded, AK-47s. No photos allowed!

Sharing mutton kebabs for lunch, with my guide, Munir, in Mazar-i-Sharif.

Sharing mutton kebabs for lunch, with my guide, Munir, in Mazar-i-Sharif.

Mazar-i-Sharif is known for its exquisite melons. Melons are sold everywhere, piled high on the side of the street. When I flew back to Kabul, many passengers carried melons with them on the flight.


Sheer Yakh

A master maker of <i>Sheer Yakh</i> - Afghan Kulfi ice cream - in Balkh.

A master maker of Sheer Yakh – Afghan Kulfi ice cream – in Balkh.

Both Mazar-i-Sharif and Balkh are famous for Sheer Yakh – an Afghan kulfi ice cream.

There are many roadside ice cream cafes in both towns, where you can watch the masters of Sheer Yakh perform their magic.

Sheer Yakh, meaning frozen milk or cold milk in Dari, is a traditional Afghan dessert that uses the same ingredients as the Indian kulfi ice cream, but is prepared differently.

Enjoying a typical Afghan lunch with my guide, Jamshyd (left) and my driver, Jaleel, at the Al-Jumairah restaurant in Kabul.

My driver, Hamid, about to enjoy a monumental plate of Sheer Yakh in Balkh.

The ice cream ingredients such as milk, sugar, and flavorings are all added to a metal container, which is then placed inside another metal container filled with ice and salt.

The person who makes the ice cream continuously rotates the vessel holding the ingredients manually within the stationary ice-filled container and occasionally stirs the creamy mixture until it becomes frozen.

Video: A master ice cream maker in Balkh, preparing Sheer Yakh!

Typical flavorings include cardamom, rose water, and salep (wild orchid powder).

A plate of divine, Sheer Yakh, made from fresh mangoes, served in an ice cream shop in Mazar-i-Sharif.

A plate of divine, Sheer Yakh, made from fresh mangoes, served in an ice cream shop in Mazar-i-Sharif.

A favorite summertime street food item, Sheer Yakh is usually served in small bowls and topped with chopped pistachios, almonds, and thick cream.

Video: My driver, Hamid, pouring a thickened cream mix over a monumental construction of Sheer Yakh in Balkh!

 


Herat

While I ate more standard Afghan cuisine in Herat, the standout offering for me was the excellent coffee served at Afghan Coffee which is hidden away inside a small shopping mall, opposite Farhang park in downtown Herat.

This was the best coffee I found in Afghanistan, which is a staunch tea-drinking nation.

Unfortunately, the Taliban have banned women from entering coffee shops!

Headless Mannequins: In the same shopping mall, the heads of all mannequins, in the different clothing shops, have been removed on the orders of the Taliban who considered a mannequin with a head to be an idol!

Bamyan

The Shamama Restaurant in Bamyan served the most succulent chicken for dinner. The Shamama Restaurant in Bamyan served the most succulent chicken for dinner.

The Shamama Restaurant in Bamyan served the most succulent chicken for dinner.

Located in downtown Bamyan, the Shamama Restaurant offers typical Afghan cuisine in a family-friendly environment. They have even installed a children’s indoor playground in one of their many rooms.

The name of the restaurant is derived from Shamama – The Queen Mother Buddha of Bamiyan!

I especially recommend their grilled chicken, which is coated in spiced yoghurt! Truly divine!

Visa Requirements

Visa Policy

The Visa Policy Map of Afghanistan is full of grey, with every nationality requiring a visa.

The Visa Policy Map of Afghanistan is full of grey, with every nationality requiring a visa in advance.
Source: Wikipedia.

Citizens of all countries require a visa to visit Afghanistan. The only exemptions are travellers born in Afghanistan, born to Afghan parents or with parents born in Afghanistan.

Following the 2021 takeover of the country by the Taliban, diplomatic missions of Afghanistan set up by the former government, the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan, were instructed by the Taliban to continue their work, and the Taliban government is accepting visas issued by these missions for entry into Afghanistan.

Some missions have stopped issuing visas, while others have continued to issue them.

Tourist Visas

My visa for Afghanistan was issued at the Afghanistan Embassy in Abu Dhabi, and was valid for 30 days.

My visa for Afghanistan was issued at the Afghanistan Embassy in Abu Dhabi, and was valid for 30 days.

I obtained my tourist visa, without fuss, at the Embassy of Afghanistan in Abu Dhabi (click to view map location), which still flies the official, tri-colour, Afghan national flag.

Also in the UAE, visas can be obtained from the Consulate General of Afghanistan in Dubai (click to view map location), which also flies the tri-colour flag. The Dubai consulate is located a short, 300-metre walk from the ‘Max‘ metro station.

Currently, tourist visas are issued to those travellers who have a Letter of Invitation (LOI) from an Afghanistan-registered tour company.

In addition to the letter of invitation, you might be asked to provide a copy of the official trading license of the tour company. This is issued by the Afghanistan Department of Culture, to registered tour operators in Afghanistan.

Visas are generally issued on the same day, are valid for a stay of 30 days, and cost around US$150.  

Foreigner Registration

Issued at Kabul International Airport, the Foreigner Registration card must be carried at all times.

Issued at Kabul International Airport, the Foreigner Registration card must be carried at all times.

Upon arrival at Kabul International Airport, all foreigners are required to register at a registration desk inside the immigration hall.

In order to register, you’ll need to complete an A4-size form, which is almost like a 2nd visa application form, and you’ll need to provide 2 passport photos.

Important: You should ensure you have 2 passport photos with you as there is no facility at the airport for taking photos. 

A similar registration process is also required upon arrival at Mazar-i-Sharif airport – even for domestic arrivals.

Tourist Travel Authorisation Process

My 'Travel Authorisation' letter which was issued by the Department of Culture in Kabul.

My ‘Travel Authorisation’ letter which was issued by the Department of Culture in Kabul.

One important consideration for visitors to Afghanistan is the current (Taliban imposed) requirement that all tourists apply for a ‘travel authorisation‘ in each province they visit.

Before you start any sightseeing in a new province, you must first visit the provincial office of the Department of Culture and secure a written travel authorisation, which allows you to travel around the province and visit the different sights. This process will be handled by your guide.

Without this travel authorisation, you will be refused entry to sights!

This travel authorisation must be carried everywhere you go and will always be requested at road checkpoints, tourist sights and many other places.  

My travel authorisation for Mazar-i-Sharif was handwritten on the same document as my Kabul authorisation.

My travel authorisation for Mazar-i-Sharif was handwritten on the same document as my Kabul authorisation.

This process is time consuming and involves meetings with Taliban government officials. I was always treated with respect and made to feel welcome.

It’s important to note that government offices are closed for the weekend (Thursday afternoon and all-day Friday), so you should avoid arriving in a new province during the weekend.

I arrived in Mazar-i-Sharif on a Friday afternoon, when the local registration office was closed. I had to remain in my hotel until I could register on Saturday morning.

My travel authorisation document which was issued in Herat.

My travel authorisation document which was issued in Herat.

When I arrived in Herat, it was 4 pm which is the closing time of the Department of Culture. My guide, who was friends with the staff in the office, had arranged for them to remain open until I had been processed.

The staff kept the office open, and were waiting for us when we arrived at 4:30 pm. I was processed speedily and was then free to explore the many sights of Herat.

During my registration process with the Department of Culture in Kabul, I met with the Deputy Minister of Tourism, who certainly was the friendly face of the Taliban!

He warmly welcomed me to Afghanistan, and offered a complementary visa extension, should I require more time in the country.

The minister, who encouraged me to stay as long as I wished, was very welcoming and said that he hoped to see more tourists visiting Afghanistan in the future.

Getting There

"I Love Afghanistan" sign at Kabul International Airport.

“I Love Afghanistan” sign at Kabul International Airport.

Air

Currently, no international airlines are flying to Afghanistan.

Airport shuttle bus at Kabul International Airport.

Airport shuttle bus at Kabul International Airport.

Flights to the country are operated by two Afghan airlines – the government owned (and totally unreliable) Ariana Afghan Airlines (referred to locally as simply AAA), and the much more reliable, privately owned, Kam Air.

The current (September 2023) Kam Air route map.

The current (September 2023) Kam Air route map.

Of the two Afghan airlines, I would recommend Kam Air, which is the largest private Afghan airline. A typical return airfare from Dubai to Kabul with Kam Air costs around US$700. 

I flew with Kam Air, return, from Dubai to Kabul and also from Kabul to Mazar-i-Sharif.

My boarding pass for my Kam Air flight from Dubai to Kabul.

My boarding pass for my Kam Air flight from Dubai to Kabul.

Founded in 2003, Kam Air has twelve aircraft, operating scheduled domestic passenger services throughout Afghanistan and international services to destinations in Central Asia, South Asia, and the Middle East.

When flying to, from and within Afghanistan, Kam Air is the preferred airline.

When flying to, from and within Afghanistan, Kam Air is the preferred airline.

Kam Air planes are configured with all economy seats, while AAA offers some business class seats on a few of its planes.

Both airlines are flying very old planes.

On one flight with AAA, I found myself in row 2 of an all-economy configuration, flying on a very old Airbus A310. One of the first Airbus’ to be produced, this particular aircraft was manufactured in the early 1980’s.

During the safety demonstration we were advised that cassette players were not to be used during the flight! Welcome to Afghanistan!

Kam Air flies daily to Kabul from Terminal 1 at Dubai International Airport.

Kam Air flies daily to Kabul from Terminal 1 at Dubai International Airport.

The following airlines operate scheduled services to/from Kabul International Airport:

  • Ariana Afghan Airlines – flies to/ from: Al Ain, Delhi, Doha, Dubai–International, Herat, Islamabad, Kandahar, Mashhad, Mazar-i-Sharif, Moscow–Sheremetyevo, Tehran–Imam Khomeini.
  • Kam Air – flies to/ from: Abu Dhabi, Ankara, Bamyan, Chaghcharan, Delhi, Dubai–International, Dushanbe, Herat, Islamabad, Jeddah, Kandahar, Khost, Kunduz, Kuwait City, Lashkargah, Maymana, Mazar-i-Sharif, Medina, Najaf, Sharjah, Tarinkot, Tashkent
The privately owned Kam Air is the more reliable of the two Afghan airlines.

The privately owned Kam Air is the more reliable of the two Afghan airlines.

Airport Arrival Procedure

Due to the unique security situation in Afghanistan, arriving at an Afghan airport is a different experience, compared to most other countries.

At all airports, no member of the public, including tour company staff, are allowed anywhere near the terminal. All members of the public must wait in the airport car park, which is always located near the front gate of the airport.

At Kabul airport, the car park is located about 300 metres from the International terminal. When you first exit the terminal, you will not find anyone waiting for you. You must instead walk to the car park at the front of the airport.

Airport Departure Procedure

Departing from an Afghan airport is also different to anywhere else in the world. Due to security concerns, the many security screenings are first performed away from the airport terminal.

As an example:

To gain access to Kabul International Airport, all vehicles are required to line up outside the airport gate. Passengers then walk through the first security checkpoint where you are subject to a body pat-down and a manual search of all bags (including turning cameras on to prove that they are cameras).

At this checkpoint you line up for a long time since one security staff is manually checking all passenger bags!After exiting the 1st checkpoint, you then walk 200 metres to the 2nd checkpoint – another body pat-down with all bags x-rayed.After this, you then walk another 200 metres to the entrance of the terminal where you join another long line for yet another body pat-down and all bags x-rayed for a 2nd time.

About 30 minutes after arriving at the airport, you finally get to enter the terminal to check-in! Once you have checked in, you then proceed to the regular airport security screening – the 4th security check!

Airport Transport

All arriving tourists will be met in the car park of each airport by their guide and driver.

If you require a taxi, you’ll find plenty of them waiting in the airport car parks.

Land

Trucks in Afghanistan are highly decorated and always very colourful.

Trucks in Afghanistan are highly decorated and always very colourful.

Located at an Asian crossroads, Afghanistan shares land borders with six countries:

Pakistan: Afghanistan’s eastern border is approximately 2,430 kilometres (1,510 miles) long, making it the longest border of Afghanistan. This border stretches from the northern region of Pakistan, near the Wakhan Corridor, to the southern border with Pakistan’s Balochistan province.

Iran: Afghanistan shares a western border with Iran, which is approximately 936 kilometres (582 miles) long. This border extends from the northeastern part of Iran to Afghanistan’s western provinces.

Turkmenistan: The northern border of Afghanistan with Turkmenistan is roughly 804 kilometres (500 miles) long. It runs through the northern provinces of Afghanistan.

Uzbekistan: Afghanistan’s border with Uzbekistan is around 144 kilometres (90 miles) long, situated in the northern part of the country.

Tajikistan: Afghanistan’s northeastern border with Tajikistan is approximately 1,206 kilometres (749 miles) long. This border passes through the rugged terrain of the Hindu Kush mountains.

China: Afghanistan’s easternmost border is shared with China’s Xinjiang region. The border with China is about 76 kilometres (47 miles) long and is located in the narrow Wakhan Corridor.

Afghanistan’s neighbours have a tendency to shut their land borders in times of trouble. Prior to travelling to a land border, you should first confirm whether or not it’s possible to cross the border. 

Getting Around

Boarding my Kam Air flight to Mazar-i-Sharif.

Boarding my Kam Air flight to Mazar-i-Sharif.

Air

Boarding my Ariana Afghan Airlines flight to Herat.

Boarding my Ariana Afghan Airlines flight to Herat.

Due to the appalling state of the roads in Afghanistan, flying is the preferred choice of travel for many Afghans.

My boarding pass with Ariana Afghan Airlines, for my flight from Kabul to Herat.

My boarding pass with Ariana Afghan Airlines, for my flight from Kabul to Herat.

The road journey between Kabul and Mazar-i-Sharif is 427 km but takes 9 hours, versus a 50-minute flight!

I flew on two (return) domestic flights which were included in my tour package – Kabul to Mazar-i-Sharif and Kabul to Herat. All domestic flights operate to/ from Kabul Airport.

Mazar-e-Sharif International Airport, officially called Mawlana Jalaluddin Mohammad Balkhi International Airport.

Mazar-e-Sharif International Airport, officially called Mawlana Jalaluddin Mohammad Balkhi International Airport.

I flew to Mazar with Kam Air who were reasonably punctual.

Herat International Airport, also known as Khwaja Abdullah Ansari International Airport.

Herat International Airport, also known as Khwaja Abdullah Ansari International Airport.

However, my flights to Herat were operated by AAA (Ariana Afghan Airlines) who delayed my return flight by 7 hours, without any advance notification being given.

My Kam Air boarding pass, for my flight from Mazar-i-Sharif to Kabul.

My Kam Air boarding pass, for my flight from Mazar-i-Sharif to Kabul.

 

A typical return airfare on Kam Air from Kabul to Mazar costs around US$130, while a return flight from Kabul to Herat costs around US$160.

Public Transport

Travelling from Bamyan to Kabul.

Travelling from Bamyan to Kabul.

There are plenty of long distance shared-taxis and buses operating in Afghanistan.

However, for security reasons, visitors will be assigned a private vehicle with a guide and driver.

Taxi

I toured the sights of Balkh in a taxi, accompanied by my guide and a driver.

I toured the sights of Balkh in a taxi, accompanied by my guide and a driver.

Taxis, which are all painted yellow and white, are plentiful in all the major urban centres.

Prices should be negotiated in advance.


That’s the end of my Afghanistan Travel Guide.

If you wish to provide feedback, you can do so using the ‘comments’ form below.

Safe Travels!
Darren


Other Taste2travel Travel Guides from the region:


 

Turkmenistan Photo Gallery

Learning the secrets of Turkmen carpets at the Turkmen Carpet Museum in Ashgabat.

Turkmenistan Photo Gallery

This is a Turkmenistan Photo Gallery from taste2travel.

To read about this destination, please refer to my Turkmenistan Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel.

I’ve been travelling the world for 36 years and, 225 countries and territories, and seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


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Turkmenistan Travel Guide

Yangykala Canyon, a highlight of Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan Travel Guide

This is a Turkmenistan Travel Guide from taste2travel.

Date Visited: May 2023

Introduction

One of the most closed and reclusive countries in the world, the enigma of Central-Asia, Turkmenistan is a fascinating and little-understood travel destination.

Standing on the edge at the very remote Yangykala Canyon.

Standing on the edge at the very remote Yangykala Canyon.

Nestled in the heart of Central Asia, Turkmenistan is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered by intrepid travellers. This is no mainstream destination, with all aspiring visitor’s needing to secure a visa through a lengthy visa process.

A view of the central dome at the spectacular Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque in Ashgabat.

A view of the central dome at the spectacular Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque in Ashgabat.

Currently, the only way to secure a visa is by joining a tour with a Turkmenistan-registered tour company.

I travelled to Turkmenistan with Oguz Travel who I would definitely recommend. For more on Oguz Travel, please refer to the Tour Companies section below.

The Mausoleum of Ahmad Sanjar at Merv, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Mausoleum of Ahmad Sanjar at Merv, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Turkmenistan is by far the most mysterious and unexplored of Central Asia’s ‘stans. A country rich in oil and gas, the government has no need for tourist dollars.

Turkmenistan became famous for the truly bizarre dictatorship of Saparmyrat Niyazov, who ruled as ‘Turkmenbashi’ (‘leader of the Turkmen’) until his death in 2006.

Learning the secrets of Turkmen carpets, from an expert guide, at the Turkmen Carpet Museum in Ashgabat.

Learning the secrets of Turkmen carpets, from an expert guide, at the Turkmen Carpet Museum in Ashgabat.

During his presidency, Niyazov cultivated a cult of personality which would have even made the leaders of North Korea blush.

He installed grandiose monuments, and golden statues of himself, including one large, golden statue in Ashgabat which rotated to always face the sun.

Turkmen women, shopping for cloth at the Tolkuchka Bazaar in Ashgabat.

Turkmen women, shopping for cloth at the Tolkuchka Bazaar in Ashgabat.

Niyazov turned Turkmenistan into a sort of totalitarian theme park, although since his death things have been tempered down.

Lying at a crossroads on the ancient Silk Road, Turkmenistan has a rich and complex history and is home to several UNESCO World Heritage sites.

An ancient seabed, the spectacular Yangykala Canyon is a highlight of Turkmenistan.

An ancient seabed, the spectacular Yangykala Canyon is a highlight of Turkmenistan.

Mostly desert, Turkmenistan is sparsely populated but is home to many remote and spectacular sights such as the Yangykala Canyon and the Darvaza Gas Crater – known as the ‘Gates of Hell‘.

In the mountain village of Nokhur, grave markers include the horns of mountain goats, which are said to ward off evil spirits.

In the mountain village of Nokhur, grave markers include the horns of mountain goats, which are said to ward off evil spirits.

Despite its challenges, Turkmenistan remains a fascinating and unique country, with a rich cultural heritage and stunning natural beauty.

Location

Ashgabat, Turkmenistan

Situated at the heart of Central Asia, Turkmenistan is bordered by Iran to the south, Afghanistan to the southeast, Uzbekistan to the northeast, and Kazakhstan to the northwest.

It is also bounded by the Caspian Sea to the west, which provides access to international waters.

A map, on the office wall at Oguz Travel in Ashgabat, shows the location of Turkmenistan.

A map, on the office wall at Oguz Travel in Ashgabat, shows the location of Turkmenistan.

The country has a strategic location along the ancient Silk Road trade route, which has historically made it an important crossroads of cultures and civilizations.

The landscape of Turkmenistan is characterised by vast expanses of deserts and semi-deserts, punctuated by mountain ranges in the south and southeast regions.

The Karakum Desert, which covers much of the country, is one of the largest sand deserts in the world.

People

Two Turkmen boys, relaxing at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Merv.

Two Turkmen boys, relaxing at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Merv.

The people of Turkmenistan are diverse and have a rich cultural heritage that has been shaped by various influences over the centuries.

As of 2023, the country has a population of 6.3 million people, the majority of whom are ethnic Turkmen.

Demographically, the population is comprised of:

  • Turkmen 72%
  • Russian 12%
  • Uzbek 9%
  • Other 7%
  • Azeri 1%

The Turkmen people are known for their hospitality and traditional way of life. Many still practice the ancient nomadic lifestyle of their ancestors, living in yurts and moving from place to place with their herds of livestock.

Most Turkmen women wear traditional dress on a daily basis.

Most Turkmen women wear traditional dress on a daily basis.

The culture of Turkmenistan is heavily influenced by Islam, which is the dominant religion in the country, with 93% of the population being Muslim.

Like other former-Soviet republics, where religion was banned for most of the 20th century, the version of Islam practiced in Turkmenistan is much less strict than the version of Islam found throughout the Middle East.

Despite the challenges faced by the country, the people of Turkmenistan remain proud of their identity and continue to work towards a better future for themselves and their country.

I found the Turkmen to be warm, friendly, welcoming, courteous and very curious about the foreigner in their midst. Most Turkmen have limited opportunities to meet a foreigner!


Turkmenistan’s President DJ

The Turkmen love to have fun and they also love their music – especially electronic dance music.

I found it strange that hotel pools, rather than offering a calm, relaxed environment, instead featured loud, mounted speakers, which boomed with the sound of electronic dance music.

Maybe this craze was started by the former President who was a keen DJ – as can be seen in the following video which shows him DJing at a New Year’s Eve party in 2020.       


Flag

The five traditional carpet designs along the hoist side make the flag of Turkmenistan the most complex national flag design in the world.

The five traditional carpet designs along the hoist side make the flag of Turkmenistan the most complex national flag design in the world.

The flag of Turkmenistan features a green field with a vertical stripe of five different carpet designs to the left of the flag.

The green background represents Islam, which is the dominant religion in the country, and also represents the natural environment of the country, particularly its lush oases.

A giant Turkmenistan flag, flying over the city of Mary.

A giant Turkmenistan flag, flying over the city of Mary.

The five different carpet medallions represent the five main tribes of the Turkmen people, which are:

  • Teke
  • Yomut
  • Saryk
  • Choudur
  • Arsary

The designs are also meant to symbolise the country’s rich cultural heritage and history, as well as its status as a centre of traditional carpet weaving.

To the right of the carpets, there is a white crescent moon and five stars, which are also symbolic of the Islamic faith.

The crescent moon represents progress, while the five stars symbolize the five main pillars of Islam: faith, prayer, fasting, pilgrimage, and charity.

Currency

The manat is the official currency of Turkmenistan.

The manat is the official currency of Turkmenistan.

The Turkmenistan manat is the official currency of Turkmenistan. If you have travelled to Azerbaijan, you will be familiar with this unit of currency as they use the Azerbaijan manat.

The original manat was introduced on 1 November 1993, replacing the rouble, which was the currency of the former Soviet Union.

The manat is subdivided into 100 tenge with both coins and banknotes in circulation. Banknotes are issued in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, and 500 manats.

The very colourful Turkmenistan manat banknotes.

The very colourful Turkmenistan manat banknotes.

The international currency code for the manat is TMT, although the currency is not exchangeable outside of Turkmenistan. It is important that you spend all of your currency before leaving the country.

There are many good souvenir and duty-free shops at Ashgabat International Airport, where you can make lastminute purchases to rid yourself of excess manat.

The manat is the official currency of Turkmenistan.

The manat is the official currency of Turkmenistan.

Due to the isolated nature of the country, there are few working international banking services in the country. It is best to take all the money, in the form of USD cash, you expect to spend with you into the country.

Exchange Rates

The official exchange rate for the manat is fixed by the Central Bank of Turkmenistan.

Since January 2015, the official exchange rate has been set at US$1 = 3.5 manats.

Black Market

As with most closed economies, a currency black market exists in Turkmenistan with many shopkeepers in Ashgabat keen to exchange USD or EUR, for manats, at very favourable rates.

During my stay, the official exchange rate was US$1 = 3.5 manats, while the unofficial rate was US$1 = 20 manats!

I exchanged money with one shopkeeper in Ashgabat who had pre-prepared bundles of 2,000 manat notes (worth USD$100). I handed him US$100, and he handed me one bundle of 2,000 manats.

During my 8 days in Turkmenistan, I exchanged a total of US$150, at the unofficial rate, to cover incidental costs. This was more than sufficient!

ATMs

ATMs do not exist in Turkmenistan!

Credit Cards

Credit cards cannot be used in Turkmenistan, which is strictly a cash society!

Costs

Since all visitors are required to join a fully escorted, fully inclusive tour, travel costs are as per the tour.

A one-week tour will typically cost between USD$500-700.

In addition to the cost of my tour, I had to pay for my roundtrip flight to Turkmenistan plus my visa and incidental expenses.

I flew from Dubai to Ashgabat with FlyDubai, who typically charge USD$730 for a return flight.

The cost of my tourist visa was US$99, which was payable in USD cash at Ashgabat International Airport.

In addition, I changed USD$150 on the black market to receive 3,000 manat. This was more than sufficient to cover incidental costs during my 8 days in Turkmenistan.

Tour Companies

Currently, the only way to secure a visa for Turkmenistan, either a tourist or transit visa, is to apply through a Turkmenistan-registered tour company.

I toured Turkmenistan, as a solo passenger, with Oguz Travel who I would highly recommend.

The modern office of Oguz Travel in Ashgabat.

The modern office of Oguz Travel in Ashgabat.

All visitors to Turkmenistan need to join a fully escorted tour with a local tour company.

For a full description of the Visa process, please refer to the Visa Requirements section below.

A view of the office of Oguz Travel in Ashgabat.

A view of the office of Oguz Travel in Ashgabat.

Currently, Oguz Travel charge between Us$500 – $700 (per person) for a one-week tour of Turkmenistan. This cost excludes airfares and the visa fee.

The friendly staff at Oguz Travel in Ashgabat.

The friendly staff at Oguz Travel in Ashgabat.

My tour included driver / guide, transport, meals, accommodation and a domestic flight. Everything was organised by the professional and friendly staff at Oguz Travel.

Sharing a traditional Turkmen lunch with Kemal, the Inbound Specialist at Oguz Travel, and his wife Aya, inside a Yurt, at a restaurant in Ashgabat.

Sharing a traditional Turkmen lunch with Kemal, the Inbound Specialist at Oguz Travel, and his wife Aya, inside a Yurt, at a restaurant in Ashgabat.

I was fully escorted from the moment I arrived until I departed.

I recommend Oguz Travel for any trip to Turkmenistan.

I recommend Oguz Travel for any trip to Turkmenistan.

Oguz Travel offered a reliable, professional service and ensured my trip to Turkmenistan was truly memorable!


Contact Details for Oguz Travel:


Sightseeing

Ashgabat

A view of the white-marble apartment buildings which line the perfectly manicured avenues of Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan.

A view of the white-marble apartment buildings which line the perfectly manicured avenues of Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan.

Home to 730,000 souls, Ashgabat is the gleaming, spotlessly clean, perfectly manicured capital city of Turkmenistan.

The city is situated on the southern edge of the Karakum Desert, and its name translates to “City of Love” in the Turkmen language.


Video: Driving in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. 


From the moment you arrive at the huge white-marble Ashgabat International Airport, which is built in the shape of a falcon in flight, you can’t help but notice how perfectly clean and perfectly well maintained everything is.

Ashgabat is a showpiece capital city. Everything is built to razzle and dazzle.

While driving around the capital, you will see uniformed cleaners mopping and scrubbing the granite gutters and footpaths.

Home to only white cars, Ashgabat is a perfectly manicured, spotlessly clean capital city.

Home to only white cars, Ashgabat is a perfectly manicured, spotlessly clean capital city.

There is not a single piece of litter to be seen anywhere – the capital is kept spotlessly clean. I spoke to Turkmen, who had travelled abroad, and they commented on how surprised they were to find litter on the ground in other countries.

The streets of the capital are lined with thousands of cone-shaped pine trees, all of which are pruned by hand.

Turkmenistan's mascot for the 2017 "Asian Indoor and Martial Arts Games" was an Alabay dog called "Wepaly".

Turkmenistan’s mascot for the 2017 “Asian Indoor and Martial Arts Games” was an Alabay dog called “Wepaly”.

Beyond the line of pine trees, pristine, white-marble buildings line the perfectly maintained avenues and boulevards.

On the move in Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan.

On the move in Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan.

Ashgabat is known for its unique architecture, which features a mix of traditional Turkmen design and modern, futuristic styles.

Giant mosaic artwork adorns many apartment buildings in Ashgabat.

Giant mosaic artwork adorns many apartment buildings in Ashgabat.

Many of the buildings in the city are made from white marble, giving it a distinctive look.

It’s interesting to note that while white-marble is used on buildings, and monuments, throughout the country, it’s all imported! Turkmenistan does not possess any sources of marble.


Quirky Ashgabat

There are many quirky, but seriously strict rules, which govern life in Ashgabat.

As you cruise around the streets of Ashgabat, you can’t help but notice that everyone seems to be driving a very clean, late model, white car.

Drivers in Ashgabat can drive any colour car they wish – provided it’s white!

This is a government regulation which was introduced by the previous president, Gurbanguly Berdymukhammedov, who believed that the colour white was ‘lucky’. It is for this reason that all buildings are clad in white marble!

A few exceptions have been made that allow some people to drive silver cars! 

As for the cleanliness of all vehicles, if a driver is found to be driving a dusty or dirty car in Ashgabat, he can be stopped by one of the many roadside policemen (they are stationed on every street corner in Ashgabat) and the driver will be issued a fine! 

After one long day-trip into the countryside, my driver/ guide dropped me at my hotel in Ashgabat at 10 pm. While I was ready for bed, he mentioned that he first needed to go and get his car washed before he went home to sleep.

When I enquired as to why it was so urgent to get his car washed so late at night, he explained that if he is stopped by a policeman he could be fined because of his dirty car.

All cars in Ashgabat are kept spotlessly clean!    

Another rule, which is hugely inconvenient for any Turkmen visiting the capital from the countryside, is that only cars bearing a license plate issued in Ashgabat (AG) or the surrounding Ahal (AH) region are allowed to enter the capital.

Drivers, who are driving cars with license plates issued in other regions, must park their cars on the outskirts of the capital, in specially built mega-sized garages, and either take a taxi, public transport or meet a family member who is driving a car (white of course!) with a local license plate.

One of the most popular forms of inter-city public transport in Turkmenistan are shared taxis. Almost all taxis bear regional license plates which means they are unable to drive into the city to drop their passengers. Instead, they must park on the outskirts of Ashgabat, where everyone must then transfer to other vehicles to complete their journey.   

If regional drivers do attempt to drive into the capital, they will be stopped and fined by one of the many policemen!  

Car license plates in Turkmenistan are suffixed with a two-letter region code, such as this one, which is from the Balkan (BN) region.

Car license plates in Turkmenistan are suffixed with a two-letter region code, such as this one, which is from the Balkan (BN) region.

Car license plates in Turkmenistan are suffixed with a two-letter region code as follows:

  • AG – Ashgabat
  • AH – Ahal
  • BN – Balkan
  • DZ – Daşoguz
  • LB – Lebap
  • MR – Mary

The upside for those living in other regions is that they can drive any colour car they wish and they don’t have to wash their cars if they become dirty. Life for those who live in the regions is a little more relaxed. 


Sights of Ashgabat

Turkmen Carpet Museum

A highlight of the Turkmen Carpet Museum is the Guinness Book of Records-listed "largest carpet in the world" (left wall) which is 301 square metres in area and weighs 1.2 tons.

A highlight of the Turkmen Carpet Museum is the Guinness Book of Records-listed “largest carpet in the world” (left wall) which is 301 square metres in area and weighs 1.2 tons.

The Turkmen Carpet Museum in Ashgabat is a renowned institution dedicated to the art and history of Turkmen carpets. It is a veritable house of treasures!

A highlight of Ashgabat was my guided tour of the Turkmen Carpet Museum.

A highlight of Ashgabat was my guided tour of the Turkmen Carpet Museum.

The museum houses an impressive collection of Turkmen carpets and rugs, including the largest handwoven carpet in the world, which is 301 square metres in area and weighs 1.2 tons.

Displays at the Turkmen Carpet Museum in Ashgabat.

Displays at the Turkmen Carpet Museum in Ashgabat.

Turkmenistan is famous for its handwoven carpets, which are often considered some of the finest in the world. These carpets are known for their vibrant colors, intricate geometric patterns, and rich cultural symbolism.

Each of the five different tribes in Turkmenistan had their own unique carpet design. It’s these five unique designs which now feature on the national flag.

More than just a display of pretty carpets, the museum provides visitors with historical context about the art of carpet-making in Turkmenistan.

You can learn about the significance of carpets in Turkmen culture, their role in daily life, and the traditional techniques used in their creation.

The museum has multiple exhibition halls displaying various types and styles of Turkmen carpets.

Each hall focuses on specific regions, historical periods, or weaving techniques, allowing you to explore the diversity of Turkmen carpet art.

3D carpets, which feature raised medallions, at the Turkmen Carpet Museum in Ashgabat.

3D carpets, which feature raised medallions, at the Turkmen Carpet Museum in Ashgabat.

They even have 3D carpets – although you don’t need to wear special glasses to view them!

A fascinating, double-sided carpet, at the Turkmen Carpet Museum.

A fascinating, double-sided carpet, at the Turkmen Carpet Museum.

One of my favourites were the double-sided carpets. Truly unique!

All visitors are led through the museum by an expert guide who describes the various wonders which are displayed.

My guide at the Turkmen Carpet Museum, explained the finest of the details which are hidden inside each carpet.

My guide at the Turkmen Carpet Museum, explained the finest of the details which are hidden inside each carpet.

There is also a museum shop which sells carpets and other trinkets. These carpets make for unique and culturally rich mementos of your visit.

Traditional Turkmen caps, known as <i>telpek</i>, for sale at the Turkmen Carpet Museum giftshop.

Traditional Turkmen caps, known as telpek, for sale at the Turkmen Carpet Museum giftshop.

Located in the building next door to the museum is the Ministry of Carpets. If you wish to export a carpet which is greater than one square metre in size, you will need to apply for an export permit from the ministry.

One day, I’ll return to Ashgabat to go carpet shopping!

Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque

The largest mosque in Central Asia, Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque is considered the main mosque of Turkmenistan.

The largest mosque in Central Asia, Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque is considered the main mosque of Turkmenistan.

The Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque, also known as the Gypjak Mosque, is considered the main mosque of Turkmenistan. It is the largest mosque in Central Asia.

A view of the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque in Ashgabat.

A view of the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque in Ashgabat.

This grand mosque, which was built by the French construction company Bouygues (who also built the fabulously opulent Yyldyz Hotel) is located 7 km (4.3 mi) west of Ashgabat, in the town of Gypjak, which was the home town of President Saparmyrat Nyýazow.

A view of the large, star-shaped, handwoven Turkmen carpet, which lies beneath the central dome, at the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque.

A view of the large, star-shaped, handwoven Turkmen carpet, which lies beneath the central dome, at the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque.

Every inch of this mosque is absolutely breathtaking, with only the finest of materials used for its construction.

The outside is completely made of white-marble, with a massive gold-covered dome, which is 50 metres in diameter, and gold-accented minarets which soar to 91 metres.

A view of the breathtakingly beautiful Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque in Ashgabat.

A view of the breathtakingly beautiful Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque in Ashgabat.

The height of the minarets corresponds to “1991”, the year Turkmenistan became independent.

A view of the dome of the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque.

A view of the dome of the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque.

Inside, lush, handwoven, Turkmen carpets cover the floor, while golden chandeliers illuminate the defining feature of the mosque: the central dome, which is intricately tiled with gold and blue mosaic tiles.

A view of the mausoleum of former president, Saparmyrat Nyýazow. A view of the mausoleum of former president, Saparmyrat Nyýazow.

A view of the mausoleum of former president, Saparmyrat Nyýazow.

The mosque opened on 22 October 2004, and was built by Nyýazow, along with a mausoleum in preparation for his death.

A view of the dome, inside the mausoleum of former president, Saparmyrat Nyýazow.

A view of the dome, inside the mausoleum of former president, Saparmyrat Nyýazow.

Nyýazow died two years later, and was buried in the mausoleum on 24 December 2006, along with other family members.

Detail view of the main entrance door of the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque.

Detail view of the main entrance door of the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque.

The mosque has been at the centre of controversy as scriptures from both the Quran and the Ruhnama (The Book of the Soul), Nyýazow’s ‘pseudo-spiritual guide to life’ are inscribed into the walls.

A view of the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque which features four minarets.

A view of the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque which features four minarets.

Also controversially, the gold lettering on the minarets reads: “The Ruhnama is a holy book, the Koran is Allah’s book.”

A view of the mihrab at the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque.

A view of the mihrab at the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque.

It has outraged many Muslims that the Ruhnama is placed as the Quran’s equal.

A door at the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque.

A door at the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque.

Despite its capacity to accommodate 10,000 worshippers’, the mosque is often empty as the Ruhnama inscriptions are considered blasphemous by devout Muslims.

A view of the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque in Ashgabat.

A view of the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque in Ashgabat.

Another possible reason the mosque is normally empty is that nobody really liked Turkmenbashi, Turkmenistan’s first president-dictator, who built the mosque in his mother’s honour and is now buried alongside her in the mausoleum.

The Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque - spectacular and opulent construction, but one which has caused much controversy.

The Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque – spectacular and opulent construction, but one which has caused much controversy.

Monument Arch of Neutrality

The Monument Arch of Neutrality in Ashgabat.

The Monument Arch of Neutrality in Ashgabat.

The 75 metre (246 ft) tall, Monument Arch of Neutrality, was built to commemorate Turkmenistan’s status of permanent neutrality, which was recognised by the United Nations in 1995. Neutrality was a key foreign policy principle of Turkmenistan.

The arch was built in 1998, at a cost of US$12 million, on the orders of then president, Saparmyrat Nyýazow, to commemorate the country’s official position of neutrality.

A golden statue of former president, Niyazov, rotates to follow the sun.

A golden statue of former president, Niyazov, rotates to follow the sun.

As was fitting with his cult of personality, he also ordered that the monument be topped by a 12-metre (39 ft) tall gold-plated statue of himself, which always rotated to face the sun.

While the arch features an elevator which ascends to an observatory, this was not working at the time of my visit.

Turkmenistan Independence Monument

The Turkmenistan Independence Monument commemorates the country's independence in 1991.

The Turkmenistan Independence Monument commemorates the country’s independence in 1991.

The Turkmenistan Independence Monument was constructed to commemorate Turkmenistan’s declaration of independence from the Soviet Union, which occurred on October 27, 1991.

At its core, the monument features a tall central column, made of white marble (of course!). This column is adorned with intricate Turkmen motifs and decorative elements.

Ruhnama Monument 

The truly bizarre Ruhnama Monument in Ashgabat.

The truly bizarre Ruhnama Monument in Ashgabat.

Located down the hill from the Turkmenistan Independence Monument is the truly bizarre Ruhnama Monument.

The former president of Turkmenistan, Saparmurat Niyazov, wasn’t simply happy enough with his cult of personality, he also wanted to guide the nation by authoring a spiritual guide.

The Ruhnama, which translates as “The Book of the Soul”, was a spiritual guide provided to the Turkmen people by the president.

The book was introduced to Turkmen culture in a gradual but eventually pervasive way. Niyazov first placed copies in the nation’s schools and libraries but eventually went as far as to make an exam on its teachings an element of the driving test.

It was mandatory to read Ruhnama in schools, universities and governmental organisations. New governmental employees were tested on the book at job interviews.

After the death of Niyazov in December 2006, the books popularity remained high, however in recent years, its popularity has waned.

Alem Entertainment Centre

A view of the Alem Entertainment Centre, whose main attraction is the world's largest indoor Ferris wheel.

A view of the Alem Entertainment Centre, whose main attraction is the world’s largest indoor Ferris wheel.

In 2012, Turkmenistan gained another entry in the Guinness Book of World Records, with the “largest Ferris wheel in an enclosed architectural design“.

Located in Ashgabat, the world's largest indoor Ferris wheel is 47 metres high and has a diameter of 57 metres.

Located in Ashgabat, the world’s largest indoor Ferris wheel is 47 metres high and has a diameter of 57 metres.

The main attraction at the Alem Centre, the Ferris wheel is 47 metres high and has a diameter of 57 metres. A large glass and white-steel casing houses the Ferris wheel, which has 24 six-seat cabins.

The Alem Entertainment Centre, also features a bowling alley, cinema screens, a restaurant, and a planetarium.

Tolkuchka-Basar

Turkmen women shopping for textiles at the Tolkuchka Bazaar in Ashgabat.

Turkmen women shopping for textiles at the Tolkuchka Bazaar in Ashgabat.

Tolkuchka-Basar, also known as Tolkuchka Bazaar, is one of the largest and most famous open-air markets in Central Asia.

Handmade souvenirs for sale at the carpet market at Tolkuchka Bazaar.

Handmade souvenirs for sale at the carpet market at Tolkuchka Bazaar.

Located on the outskirts of Ashgabat, this bustling bazaar is known for its wide variety of goods, including traditional crafts, textiles, electronics, carpets and much more.

As a sign of marital status, married Turkmen women typically wear a head scarf, while single girls do not!

As a sign of marital status, married Turkmen women typically wear a head scarf, while single girls do not!

Turkmen clothing is known for its vibrant and colourful designs.

Colourful decorations on sale at the at the Tolkuchka Bazaar in Ashgabat.

Colourful decorations on sale at the at the Tolkuchka Bazaar in Ashgabat.

he use of bright colors, intricate patterns, and embroidery is a significant characteristic of their traditional attire.

A shopkeeper at the Tolkuchka Bazaar in Ashgabat.

A shopkeeper at the Tolkuchka Bazaar in Ashgabat.

During my visit to the bazaar with Kemal, I visited the textile market where I could observe local women purchasing lengths of cloth for making traditional Turkmen clothing.

Shopping for cloth at the at the Tolkuchka Bazaar in Ashgabat.

Shopping for cloth at the at the Tolkuchka Bazaar in Ashgabat.

While western-style clothing is popular among the youth of Turkmenistan and those living in urban areas, traditional clothing is still largely worn, especially by women.

Many Turkmen women prefer to make their own traditional clothing.

Many Turkmen women prefer to make their own traditional clothing.

Traditional attire remains an important symbol of Turkmen identity and cultural heritage.

A view of a small selection of the Turkmen carpets, available for purchase, at the carpet bazaar in Ashgabat.

A view of a small selection of the Turkmen carpets, available for purchase, at the carpet bazaar in Ashgabat.

We also visited the carpet bazaar where I was offered the most amazing Turkmen carpets at the craziest of prices!

This kind lady offered to sell me this small Turkmen carpet for just US$10.

This kind lady offered to sell me this small Turkmen carpet for just US$10.

The low prices offered had me salivating and I was keen to buy, however, any carpet larger than one square metre requires an export permit from the Ministry of Carpet! Yes – there is a ministry for carpets!

My guide, Kemal, provides a sense of scale to the bargain of the century. I was offered this handwoven Turkmen carpet for just US$50!! Incredible!

My guide, Kemal, provides a sense of scale to the bargain of the century. I was offered this handwoven Turkmen carpet for just US$50!! Incredible!

The prices for handwoven Turkmen carpets at the Tolkuchka Bazaar were a steal! The prices were shockingly cheap, especially for something that would have taken so long to make!

A "Lenin" carpet for sale at the at the Tolkuchka Bazaar.

A “Lenin” carpet for sale at the at the Tolkuchka Bazaar.

However, as a full-time traveller, without a place to currently call home, it made no sense for me to buy. I did promise Kemal that I will return one day, when I am ready to buy a horde of bargain Turkmen carpets.

An amazing felt carpet for sale at the Tolkuchka Bazaar. I love felt carpets!

An amazing felt carpet for sale at the Tolkuchka Bazaar. I love felt carpets!

Despite the fact that I am a full-time traveller, without a base, I do have a small carpet collection which is comprised of pieces I have purchased during my travels.

One day, I will have a home where I can display my collection. Then I’ll return to Ashgabat to add some Turkmen carpets to my collection.

Alabay Monument

The Alabay dog is the national dog of Turkmenistan.

The Alabay dog is the national dog of Turkmenistan.

Unveiled in 2020 by the then President, Gurbanguly Berdymukhamedov, this 6m (19ft) golden statue of the Alabay dog, the national dog of Turkmenistan, adorns a roundabout in downtown Ashgabat.

The Alabay is a home-bred Turkmen variety of the Central Asian shepherd dog and is listed under the country’s national heritage.

Akhal-Tekes Horse Stable

The Akhal-Teke, a breed of horse which originated in the Karakum Desert, is integral to Turkmen culture.

The Akhal-Teke, a breed of horse which originated in the Karakum Desert, is integral to Turkmen culture.

The horse, and specifically, the Akhal-Tekes breed of horse, is an integral part of Turkmen culture.

Horses in Turkmenistan are treated like royalty, living in plush stable complexes, where they are groomed, bathed, fed the finest of food and generally pampered.

A young stable-hand, with one of the prize horses from the stable.

A young stable-hand, with one of the prize horses from the stable.

Among all equine breeds known today in the world, the Akhal-Teke, which originated in the Karakum Desert, is universally considered one of the most ancient ones.

On the outskirts of Ashgabat, large stable complexes house these magnificent beasts. Visitors are able to visit to see these horses up close.

The stable-hand, taking a horse for a gallop.

The stable-hand, taking a horse for a gallop.

Although I am not a horse person, I could appreciate that these horses truly are special. They are the most beautiful of horses!

Kow Ata Underground Lake

Kow Ata is an underground lake, which is located inside a large cave, 90 km west of Ashgabat.

Kow Ata is an underground lake, which is located inside a large cave, 90 km west of Ashgabat.

Located 90 km west of Ashgabat, Kow Ata is an underground lake, which is located inside a large cave, near the village of Bäherden, at the foot of the Kopet Dag mountain.

The cave was reportedly discovered in the 19th century by railway workers during construction of the Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi railway.

Located 55-metres below the surface, Kow Ata underground lake is reached via a series of stairways.

Located 55-metres below the surface, Kow Ata underground lake is reached via a series of stairways.

The lake is located 55-metres (180 ft) below the entrance of the cave, and is reached by a series of stairways. No sunlight reaches inside the cave and lighting on the stairway is poor. I had to use the torch on my phone to light the way.

The length of the lake, which lies in darkness, is reported to be between 75 metres (246 ft) and 80 metres (260 ft). The average depth is about 10 metres (33 ft), with a maximum depth of 15 metres (49 ft).

It’s a popular swimming place for locals escaping from the scorching summer heat outside.

A view of the long stairway, which descends 55-metres through the cave, to Kow Ata underground lake.

A view of the long stairway, which descends 55-metres through the cave, to Kow Ata underground lake.

Entrance to the cave costs 50 manat!

Several restaurants in the car park provide food and drinks.

Nokhur

Located in the mountains of southern Turkmenistan, Nokhur village is known for its unique culture, traditional way of life, and stunning natural surroundings.

Located in the mountains of southern Turkmenistan, Nokhur village is known for its unique culture, traditional way of life, and stunning natural surroundings.

Nokhur is a village in the Akhal velayat of Turkmenistan, located at the western end of the Kopet dag ridge, in the mountains, at an altitude of 1,000-1,100 metres above sea level.

A highlight of Nokhur village is its cemetery full of goat-horn grave markers.

A highlight of Nokhur village is its cemetery full of goat-horn grave markers.

The area is known for its unique culture, traditional way of life, and stunning natural surroundings. The village is nestled in the Kopet Dag mountains, providing it with a breathtaking backdrop of rugged landscapes.

A view of the cemetery at Nokhur, a highlight of the village.

A view of the cemetery at Nokhur, a highlight of the village.

The village is inhabited by the Nokhuris people who are different from other Turkmens. They have their own language and distinct cultural practices.

A truck, fully laden with hay, in Nokhur village, Turkmenistan.

A truck, fully laden with hay, in Nokhur village, Turkmenistan.

It is said that the residents of Nokhuris are descendants of soldiers who first arrived in the region, as part of the army of Alexander the Great, and who decided to stay and settle in the scenic valley, rather than to continue moving and fighting, as the army made its way south towards Persia.

While in Nokhur village, I had lunch with my driver, underneath the waterfall, at the excellent Soygi Dagy restaurant.

While in Nokhur village, I had lunch with my driver, underneath the waterfall, at the excellent Soygi Dagy restaurant.

At the entrance to the village, the excellent Soygi Dagy restaurant, serves very tasty Turkmen cuisine at the base of a crashing waterfall. A fantastic location for a restaurant as the waterfall acts as a natural air-conditioner on hot days.

Nokhur Cemetery

Graves at Nokhur cemetery include the horns of mountain goats, which are believed to keep evil spirits away.

Graves at Nokhur cemetery include the horns of mountain goats, which are believed to keep evil spirits away.

The cemetery of Nokhur is the main sight in this mountain village. Its graves, marked by the horns of mountain goats, point to burial rites steeped in animism, sprinkled with Zoroastrianism.

Gravestones at Nokhur cemetery.

Gravestones at Nokhur cemetery.

The goat horns are there to fight off evil spirits, while the gravestones are marked with grooved steps, to help the deceased ascend to heaven.

A wooden grave marker at Nokhur cemetery, clearly showing the goat horns and the grooved steps.

A wooden grave marker at Nokhur cemetery, clearly showing the goat horns and the grooved steps.

The reverence of mountain goats clearly predates Islamic traditions, and though today the Nokhuris are devout Muslims, this part of their ancient belief system has continued to survive.

Although the residents of Nokhur are now Muslim, they still incorporate pre-Islamic animist and Zoroastrian believes in their culture.

Although the residents of Nokhur are now Muslim, they still incorporate pre-Islamic animist and Zoroastrian believes in their culture.

Nokhur Plane Tree

Tea vendors, selling tea, under the shade of the giant Plane tree in Nokhur village.

Tea vendors, selling tea, under the shade of the giant Plane tree in Nokhur village.

Located in the centre of Nokhur village is a huge, centuries-old, plane tree. A hollow in the trunk can accommodate several people at once.

A tea seller, selling his herbal teas, under the shade of the giant plane tree in Nokhur village.

A tea seller, selling his herbal teas, under the shade of the giant plane tree in Nokhur village.

Visitors can purchase herbal teas, which are sold by a couple of vendors who make tea from drying locally collected wildflowers and herbs.

The herbal teas sold at Nokhur village are made from locally dried herbs and wildflowers.

The herbal teas sold at Nokhur village are made from locally dried herbs and wildflowers.

Balkanabat

A view of the "Monument to the Desert Explorers" in Balkanabat.

A view of the “Monument to the Desert Explorers” in Balkanabat.

Balkanabat is the capital city of the Balkan Province in Turkmenistan. A sleepy town, Balkanabat is located in the western part of Turkmenistan, 150 km inland from the coast of the Caspian Sea and the port city of Turkmenbashi.

This regional hub is situated in the heart of the Karakum Desert and serves as a gateway to various natural resources and energy reserves in the region.

The city’s economy is closely tied to the oil and gas industry, as the region around Balkanabat is rich in hydrocarbon resources.

Oil and gas exploration, production, and refining are significant economic activities in and around the city.

The Monument to the Desert Explorers

The "Monument to the Desert Explorers" is dedicated to the pioneers of the oil industry in Turkmenistan.

The “Monument to the Desert Explorers” is dedicated to the pioneers of the oil industry in Turkmenistan.

The only real sight in Balkanabat is this monument which is located on the western edge of town.

The Monument to the Desert Explorers is sculpted from concrete, but made to look like sandstone.

It commemorates the Turkmen and Russian explorers who discovered oil in the region, which ultimately led to the birth of Balkanabat.

The sculpture depicts several explorers huddling around a camel, who is carrying barrels of oil, taking shelter from an apparent sandstorm as they make their way across the desert.

Yangykala Canyon

A highlight of Turkmenistan, the stunningly beautiful Yangykala Canyon.

A highlight of Turkmenistan, the stunningly beautiful Yangykala Canyon.

A truly stunning sight, the Yangykala Canyon is a stunning natural geological formation located about 2 hours inland from either Balkanabat or Turkmenbashi, via some terribly potholed roads, which eventually turn to gravel.

Vibrant, colourful, rock formations at Yangykala Canyon are the result of iron minerals in the soil.

Vibrant, colourful, rock formations at Yangykala Canyon are the result of iron minerals in the soil.

Often referred to as the “Grand Canyon of Turkmenistan” due to its unique and striking landscapes, Yangykala was once underwater, the floor of an ancient ocean, the gigantic Tethys Sea, that existed millions of years ago.

Once the Tethys Sea had dried, it left behind a rocky landscape that was slowly eroded by wind and rain, cutting out cliffs and canyons whose colourful walls are now on full display – an artwork by Mother Nature!

Fossilised seashells can be found everywhere at Yangykala Canyon.

Fossilised seashells can be found everywhere at Yangykala Canyon.

Evidence of the former seabed can be found everywhere at Yangykala Canyon, in the form of fossilised seashells.

Remnants of the Tethys Sea remain today as the Mediterranean, Black, Caspian, and Aral seas.

My driver Rejep, enjoying the panoramic view at Yangykala Canyon.

My driver Rejep, enjoying the panoramic view at Yangykala Canyon.

One of the most captivating features of the Yangykala Canyon is the array of vibrant colors that adorn the rock formations, a result of high iron mineral content.

Views of Yangykala Canyon.

Views of Yangykala Canyon.

The layers of sedimentary rock display shades of red, orange, yellow, and white, creating a mesmerising, and at times surreal, visual spectacle.

There are several viewpoints along the rim of the canyon that offer breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes. These can be access with a high-clearance 4WD.

Visitors can stand at these vantage points and marvel at the expanse of the canyon, the intricate patterns of the rock layers, and the play of light and shadows.

Views of the stunningly beautiful Yangykala Canyon.

Views of the stunningly beautiful Yangykala Canyon.

The canyon is located in a relatively remote and arid region, which adds to its mystique. Its isolation has helped preserve its pristine landscapes and minimise human impact.

Well off the beaten track, the only way to reach the canyon is with a private vehicle.

The spectacularly colourful Yangykala Canyon, a highlight of Turkmenistan.

The spectacularly colourful Yangykala Canyon, a highlight of Turkmenistan.

There are absolutely no facilities anyone near the canyon, so you need to come prepared with all the water and food you might need. On the day I visited, temperatures in the canyon were in the mid-40’s Celsius!

Turkmenbashi

White-marble hotels, line the Caspian Sea in the Avaza National Tourist Zone at Turkmenbashi.

White-marble hotels, line the Caspian Sea in the Avaza National Tourist Zone at Turkmenbashi.

Turkmenbashi, formerly known as Krasnovodsk, is a port city and one of the major urban centres in Turkmenistan.

The city’s name was changed from Krasnovodsk to Turkmenbashi in honor of Turkmenbashi (Saparmurat Niyazov), the first President of Turkmenistan, in 1993. The name “Turkmenbashi” translates to “Leader of the Turkmen.”

It holds significant economic and strategic importance due to its access to the Caspian Sea and its role in trade and transportation.

Turkmenbashi is located on the northeastern coast of the Caspian Sea, in the Balkan Province of Turkmenistan. It serves as the administrative centre of the Balkan Province.

One of the most crucial aspects of Turkmenbashi is its port, which is the largest port on the Caspian Sea.

The city’s economy is closely tied to maritime activities, shipping, and trade. A regular passenger ferry connects Turkmenbashi to Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan.

The port plays a pivotal role in the export and import of goods, particularly energy resources like oil and gas.

Similar to other parts of Turkmenistan, Turkmenbashi has a significant presence in the oil and gas sector. The region is rich in hydrocarbon resources, and the city is involved in oil and gas exploration, production, and transportation.

Avaza National Tourist Zone

A view of the swimming pools at the Hazar Hotel, the most popular hotel in the Avaza National Tourist Zone.

A view of the swimming pools at the Hazar Hotel, the most popular hotel in the Avaza National Tourist Zone.

Close to Turkmenbashi is the Avaza National Tourist Zone, a beach resort area along the Caspian Sea which was inspired by the developments of Dubai, but which lacks the crowds or the buzz of the glitzy Emirate.

Avaza was developed to attract tourists and features modern hotels, entertainment facilities, and recreational opportunities. However, the tourists have yet to arrive! Avaza is probably the least known resort in the world!

At the time of my visit, there were a handful of Turkmen holiday-makers enjoying the facilities, but it was very quiet – dead really!

This tourist zone is a peculiar place!

A view of the white-marble hotels which line the shore of the Caspian Sea, inside the Avaza National Tourist Zone.

A view of the white-marble hotels which line the shore of the Caspian Sea, inside the Avaza National Tourist Zone.

Lining the beach are a number of white-marble (of course!) high rise hotels, each one built, and operated, by a different government department.

Beyond the hotels, expansive, manicured, perfectly clean, parks and pine forests allow holiday makers to walk and exercise in a pollution-free environment.

When Avaza was created, the president of Turkmenistan deemed that the zone should be kept car-free zone, so that those on holiday are not subject to pollution, traffic or noise.

As a result, all vehicles are to be parked in a giant parking station at the entrance to the zone, requiring passengers to transfer to a special fleet of taxis, who operate shuttle services to the different hotels.

During my visit to Avaza, I spent time relaxing with my driver/ guide – Rejep – by the large swimming pool at the Hazar Hotel, which is owned by the Central Bank of Turkmenistan.

Apparently, the Hazar Hotel has the best swimming pool of all the hotels. The pool is popular with visiting locals, and features the obligatory boom-box speakers, booming out loud electronic music.

Mary

Located in the southeast of Turkmenistan, 366 km east of Ashgabat via a rough, deteriorated, Soviet-era highway, the city of Mary (pop: 210,000) is the capital of the province of the same name.

It is located near the border with Afghanistan and has historically been an important trade and cultural centre due to its strategic location along the Silk Road.

Mary is the launching pad for visits to the nearby UNESCO World Heritage Site of Merv, which lies 33 km outside the city.

Merv

A highlight of Merv, the 12th-century Mausoleum of Ahmad Sanjar, is considered one of the finest examples of Seljuk architecture.

A highlight of Merv, the 12th-century Mausoleum of Ahmad Sanjar, is considered one of the finest examples of Seljuk architecture.

Merv is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located 33 km from the city of Mary. It is one of the most important archaeological sites in the region, and is considered one of the greatest cities of the Islamic world.

A view of the ornate ceiling of the Mausoleum of Ahmad Sanjar at Merv, Turkmenistan.

A view of the ornate ceiling of the Mausoleum of Ahmad Sanjar at Merv, Turkmenistan.

At its peak, Merv was a major centre of trade and culture, and was an important stop along the Silk Road.

Merv was inhabited from the 3rd millennium BCE to the 18th century CE, and was ruled by a series of empires, including the Achaemenids, the Parthians, the Sassanids, the Arabs, the Seljuks, and the Mongols.

Camels grazing around an ancient structure at historic Merv.

Camels grazing around an ancient structure at historic Merv.

The city was known for its impressive architecture, including its mosques, palaces, and fortifications, many of which have been partially or fully restored.

Merv is a fascinating destination for those interested in history and archaeology, offering a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of Central Asia.

Mausoleum of Ahmad Sanjar

The Mausoleum of Ahmad Sanjar at Merv.

The Mausoleum of Ahmad Sanjar at Merv.

One of the highlights of Merv is the impressive Mausoleum of Ahmad Sanjar, a 12th-century mausoleum that is considered one of the finest examples of Seljuk architecture.

The fabulous dome of the Mausoleum of Ahmad Sanjar was heavily damaged during the Mongol sacking of Merv in 1221 CE.

The fabulous dome of the Mausoleum of Ahmad Sanjar was heavily damaged during the Mongol sacking of Merv in 1221 CE.

Built in 1157 CE, the mausoleum commemorates Ahmad Sanjar, a Seljuk ruler of Khorasan. Throughout his reign, Sanjar fought off several invasions and uprisings, until finally being defeated by the Oghuz.

Seljuk architecture at its best - the interior of the Mausoleum of Ahmad Sanjar at Merv.

Seljuk architecture at its best – the interior of the Mausoleum of Ahmad Sanjar at Merv.

During the Mongol sack of Merv in 1221 CE, the mausoleum was burnt, only after the Mongols had dug up the grave of Ahmad Sanjar, looking for precious objects.

A view of the tomb, and the mausoleum, of Ahmad Sanjar at Merv.

A view of the tomb, and the mausoleum, of Ahmad Sanjar at Merv.

The fire caused significant damage to the mausoleum, destroying much of the building’s exterior brickwork and causing the outer dome to collapse.

Merv remained severely depopulated in the period following the Mongol invasion and the tomb deteriorated further due to centuries of neglect.

Great Kyz Kala

One of the most iconic structures at Merv, the Great Kyz Kala is a monumental mudbrick, fortified residence.

One of the most iconic structures at Merv, the Great Kyz Kala is a monumental mudbrick, fortified residence.

The Great Kyz Kala is a monumental mudbrick, fortified-building, one of a number of similar structures known as köshks, within the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Merv.

This iconic structure is thought to have been built somewhere between the 6th and 8th century CE, in the late Sassanian or early Islamic period, and to have continued in use until the Mongol sack of Merv in 1221 CE.

A view of the Great Kyz Kala at Merv, Turkmenistan.

A view of the Great Kyz Kala at Merv, Turkmenistan.

Located just outside the city walls, it seems likely to have functioned as a fortified residence

Darvaza

Possibly the #1 tourist attraction in Turkmenistan - the Darvaza Gas Crater.

Possibly the #1 tourist attraction in Turkmenistan – the Darvaza Gas Crater.

Darvaza, also known as the Door to Hell, is a natural gas field located in the Karakum Desert of Turkmenistan. It is famous for its large, burning crater, which has been burning continuously since 1971.

The crater is very popular with tourists, who flock to see its eerie glow in the darkness of night.

The Darvaza gas crater was created when Soviet geologists were drilling for gas in 1971 and the ground collapsed, creating a large hole.

The gas that was released from the hole was thought to be harmful to local residents, so the decision was made to set the gas on fire to prevent it from spreading.

A view into the <i>Gates to Hell</i> - the Darvaza Gas Crater lies in a remote corner of the Karakum desert.

A view into the Gates to Hell – the Darvaza Gas Crater lies in a remote corner of the Karakum desert.

The hope was that the fire would burn out within a few weeks, but it has been burning continuously ever since.

Today, the Darvaza crater is a popular tourist attraction.

Taking photos around the rim of the Darvaza Gas Crater is like trying to photograph inside an oven.

Taking photos around the rim of the Darvaza Gas Crater is like trying to photograph inside an oven.

The crater is about 60 metres wide and 20 metres deep, and the flames can reach up to 10-15 metres high.

While the area around the crater is remote and can be difficult to access, many tour operators offer guided trips to Darvaza for those interested in seeing the fiery spectacle up close.

The gas inside the Darvaza Gas Crater was ignited when it was first discovered in the early 1970's and has been burning ever since.

The gas inside the Darvaza Gas Crater was ignited when it was first discovered in the early 1970’s and has been burning ever since.

Getting up close to take photos is like standing close to a large flame grill! Thermal winds, which are whipped up by the flames, can easily singe the hairs on your head!

On the day of my visit, the temperate in the desert was around 45 degrees Celsius, while the temperate at the rim of the crater was around 70 degrees Celsius. My camera almost melted!

Accommodation at Darvaza

An onsite Yurt village provides accommodation options for those who wish to overnight at the Darvaza Gas Crater.

An onsite Yurt village provides accommodation options for those who wish to overnight at the Darvaza Gas Crater.

For those who wish to stay overnight, an onsite yurt village provides accommodation options.

A view inside one of the accommodation Yurts at Darvaza.

A view inside one of the accommodation Yurts at Darvaza.

Restaurant at Darvaza

A view of the restaurant complex at the Darvaza Gas Crater.

A view of the restaurant complex at the Darvaza Gas Crater.

The nearest dining options in this part of the desert are hundreds of miles away in Ashgabat. One onsite restaurant provides basic meals for those staying overnight.

The restaurant at the Darvaza Gas Crater provides a place to seek shade from the intense desert heat.

The restaurant at the Darvaza Gas Crater provides a place to seek shade from the intense desert heat.

Accommodation

My accommodation in Ashgabat - the recently opened, very opulent, 5-star, Yyldyz Hotel.

My accommodation in Ashgabat – the recently opened, very opulent, 5-star, Yyldyz Hotel.

Accommodation options catering for all budgets can be found in each of the major cities, including Ashgabat, Turkmenbashi and Mary.

Accommodation will be arranged by your tour company as per your requirements.

During my time in Turkmenistan, I experienced two different types of accommodation, which were at complete opposite ends of the accommodation spectrum.

What looks like an artist's concept drawing for a development project is actually the view from my room at the Yyldyz Hotel, Ashgabat.

What looks like an artist’s concept drawing for a development project is actually the view from my room at the Yyldyz Hotel, Ashgabat.

I stayed for all but one of my nights at the recently opened, 5-star, Yyldyz Hotel in Ashgabat, which is regarded as the best hotel in Turkmenistan and is beyond luxurious!

I also got to experience a family homestay when my driver/ guide invited me to stay with him and his family in their 5-bedroom apartment in the western city of Balkanabat.

While a family home cannot be compared to the opulent offerings of a 5-star hotel, my homestay experience was one I will forever treasure! Something truly special!

Ashgabat

A room fit for a king! Or even a solo traveller! My palatial room at the Yyldyz Hotel, Ashgabat.

A room fit for a king! Or even a solo traveller! My palatial room at the Yyldyz Hotel, Ashgabat.

The Yyldyz Hotel is a 5-star luxury hotel located on a hill on the outskirts of Ashgabat. It was built by the French construction company Bouygues Bâtiment International.

The tear-shaped design of the Yyldyz Hotel reminded me of the Burg Al-Arab Hotel in Dubai.

The tear-shaped design of the Yyldyz Hotel reminded me of the Burg Al-Arab Hotel in Dubai.

The imposing, teardrop-shaped tower, which reminded me of the Burj Al Arab Hotel in Dubai, is more than 100 metres tall, and contains 155 spacious and opulent rooms/ suites, which are fit for royalty.

The lofty and plush, marbled-lined lobby, at the Yyldyz Hotel in Ashgabat.

The lofty and plush, marbled-lined lobby, at the Yyldyz Hotel in Ashgabat.

From the moment you step into the lofty, marble-clad lobby, you know you have arrived somewhere special. The English-speaking reception staff are professional and provide a good level of service.


Video: Approaching the Yyldyz Hotel in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. 


My room/ suite was incredibly spacious, much larger than your average apartment.

A view of one half of my bathroom at the Yyldyz Hotel in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan.

A view of one half of my bathroom at the Yyldyz Hotel in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan.

As I entered, a hallway led first to a huge bathroom, which featured a large shower, bathtub, and underfloor heating.

Enough room for a single traveller! The other half of my bathroom at the Yyldyz Hotel.

Enough room for a single traveller! The other half of my bathroom at the Yyldyz Hotel.

The bathroom was almost as large as some hotel rooms I’ve stayed in.

My suite at the Yyldyz Hotel was furnished with a sofa and decorated with paintings of Turkmen horses.

My suite at the Yyldyz Hotel was furnished with a sofa and decorated with paintings of Turkmen horses.

The hallway then led to a sitting room where there was an office desk and chair, coffee machine, refrigerator etc.

Beyond the sitting room, the incredibly large bedroom featured ceiling to floor windows along the entire front wall, which provided the most stunning views of Ashgabat. Even the king-sized bed seemed to be too small for this huge space.

Plenty of room to relax, in my bedroom at the Yyldyz Hotel in Ashgabat.

Plenty of room to relax, in my bedroom at the Yyldyz Hotel in Ashgabat.

All of the walls of my room were adorned with original artworks featuring Turkmen horses.

Each morning, a generous buffet breakfast was served in the hotel restaurant.

The very large indoor pool at the Yyldyz Hotel in Ashgabat.

The very large indoor pool at the Yyldyz Hotel in Ashgabat.

Facilities at the hotel include an indoor and outdoor pool (both are huge and very popular with visiting locals), a gym, a sauna/ spa, a banqueting hall, a panoramic restaurant, nightclub and pub.

The outdoor pool at the Yyldyz Hotel in Ashgabat is very popular with visiting locals.

The outdoor pool at the Yyldyz Hotel in Ashgabat is very popular with visiting locals.

The Yyldyz Hotel was a special experience and, since I travelled to Turkmenistan with Oguz Tours, they were able to offer this deluxe experience at a special promotional rate.

Balkanabat 

My driver/ guide, Rejep, and his family, inside their apartment in the city of Balkanabat.

My driver/ guide, Rejep, and his family, inside their apartment in the city of Balkanabat.

During my first few days in Turkmenistan, I travelled with an amazing driver/ guide by the name of Rejep.

Rejep, with his son, who was celebrating his 1st birthday during my visit.

Rejep, with his son, who was celebrating his 1st birthday during my visit.

One evening, we arrived in his hometown of Balkanabat, which is located in the west of Turkmenistan, 153 km inland from the Caspian Sea port city of Turkmenbashi.

Dinner is served! A view of the living room at Rejep's apartment. I ate and slept on the floor in this room.

Dinner is served! A view of the living room at Rejep’s apartment. I ate and slept on the floor in this room.

Rejep had invited me to experience a traditional homestay, by staying with his extended family who live in a 5-bedroom apartment which dates from the Soviet era.

Rejep and I shared a traditional Turkmen meal which was prepared by his very talented wife. Truly delicious!

Rejep and I shared a traditional Turkmen meal which was prepared by his very talented wife. Truly delicious!

Away from all the glitzy, showpiece, marble-clad buildings of Ashgabat, and a million miles from the opulence of the Yyldyz Hotel, most Turkmen live in old Soviet apartment blocks which remain totally unrenovated.

A traditional Turkmen dinner of Plov, salad and vegetables which was prepared by Rejep's wife.

A traditional Turkmen dinner of Plov, salad and vegetables which was prepared by Rejep’s wife.

These apartments are purely utilitarian – solid, but cold, constructions, which are not noted for any form of luxury or comfort. They are the mainstay of private residential housing in Turkmenistan.

Satellite dishes galore! A view of the Soviet-era apartment building in Balkanabat, where my driver/ guide Rejep lives with his extended family.

Satellite dishes galore! A view of the Soviet-era apartment building in Balkanabat, where my driver/ guide Rejep lives with his extended family.

What was interesting to note were all the satellite dishes which clung to the outside walls of all apartment buildings in Turkmenistan.

The Turkmen prefer to tune into Turkish TV channels, which offer game shows, reality shows and other programs, which are much more entertaining than the stale offerings of Turkmenistan state television.

My bed for the night, on the floor of the living room at Rejep's apartment.

My bed for the night, on the floor of the living room at Rejep’s apartment.

During my stay at his home, Rejep’s son was celebrating his 1st birthday.  He was certainly curious about the stranger in his house.

Rejep’s wife prepared the most delicious meals, including Plov, which was full of flavour.

Rejep and I shared a traditional breakfast on the floor of his living room.

Rejep and I shared a traditional breakfast on the floor of his living room.

What’s notable about Turkmen homes is that they are sparsely furnished. Everything, from sleeping, eating and preparing meals, is done on the floor.

Eating Out

The cuisine of Turkmenistan, reflects its nomadic heritage, as well as influences from neighbouring countries like Iran, Afghanistan, and Russia.

The cuisine is characterised by its use of simple, locally available ingredients, and a focus on hearty and flavourful dishes.

Meat holds a central place in Turkmen cuisine, especially mutton, beef, and occasionally camel meat. Lamb is particularly popular and is often used in various dishes, including stews, kebabs, and pilafs.

Pilaf (Plov) is a staple dish in Turkmen cuisine. It typically consists of rice cooked with meat (usually lamb or beef), vegetables, and aromatic spices. The dish is often garnished with fried onions, raisins, and sometimes saffron, giving it a rich and flavourful profile.

Grilled skewered meats, known as kebabs, are widely enjoyed in Turkmenistan. These can include various types of meat, such as lamb, beef, and chicken, often marinated with spices and herbs before grilling.

Bread, known as “çörek” in Turkmen, is a staple food. The traditional bread is round and flat, often baked in tandoor ovens. It is usually served with various dishes and used to scoop up food.

Dairy products like yogurt, Ayran (a yogurt-based drink), and various types of cheeses play a role in Turkmen cuisine. These items are not only consumed as they are but are also used as ingredients in different dishes.

For those who love to eat melons, Turkmenistan is melon-central and the Turkmen are fanatical about their melons.

On our drive to his family home, my driver, Rejep, stopped at several roadside melon stalls to purchase a variety of melons. At each stall, he spent time to feel and smell each melon, being careful to select only the best!

By the time we had reached his home, he had purchased seven different melons – all of which tasted amazing!

Restaurants /Cafés

While in Turkmenistan, all meals were arranged by my tour company, Oguz Travel.

Although tea is an essential part of Turkmen culture, coffee is becoming more popular, with cafés offering caffeine addicts a choice of espresso, cappuccinocafé latte etc.

Ashgabat

Welcome to coffee heaven! Bazetti Coffee in Ashgabat!

Welcome to coffee heaven! Bazetti Coffee in Ashgabat!

The best coffee in Ashgabat is served at Bazetti Coffee which is hidden away on the ground floor of a non-descript, white-marble, building in a suburb of Ashgabat.

An amazing cappuccino at Bazetti Coffee in Ashgabat.

An amazing cappuccino at Bazetti Coffee in Ashgabat.

There are no signs to be seen anywhere! You just have to know where to go! I always went with my guide, Kemal, who knew the way and who is also a fellow caffeine addict.

Bazetti Coffee in Ashgabat, offers a menu of international café favourites.

Bazetti Coffee in Ashgabat, offers a menu of international café favourites.

Bazetti roast their own coffee and sell to cafes throughout Turkmenistan. This is a haven for coffee lovers.

The delicious Russian Cheesecakes at Bazetti Coffee.

The delicious Russian Cheesecakes at Bazetti Coffee.

Also worth trying are their freshly baked, Russian Cheesecakes! Truly divine!

Mary

The modern and funky, Aladdin Café, in the city of Mary. Highly recommended!

The modern and funky, Aladdin Café, in the city of Mary. Highly recommended!

The funkiest restaurant/ café in the city of Mary is the Aladdin Café, which features a menu of Turkmen and International favourites, all of which are served in a very groovily-designed environment.

Highly recommended!

Bars

Bars can be found in all the major hotels.

The Yyldyz Hotel offers a bar on its top floor and alcohol is also served poolside.

Visa Requirements

Visa Policy

It's all grey! Nationals from the grey countries require a visa to visit Turkmenistan - that's everyone! <br><i>Source: Wikipedia.

It’s all grey! Nationals from the grey countries require a visa to visit Turkmenistan – that’s everyone!
Source: Wikipedia.

The Visa Policy of Turkmenistan is very strict, with all foreign nationals requiring a visa in advance.

The only exceptions to this rule are people from certain parts of neighbouring Kazakhstan or Uzbekistan, who are allowed to enter without a visa for a limited period of time.

Tourist Visa

My visa for Turkmenistan which was issued on arrival at Ashgabat International Airport.

My visa for Turkmenistan which was issued on arrival at Ashgabat International Airport.

In order to obtain a tourist visa for Turkmenistan, all foreign nationals must first obtain a Letter of Invitation (LOI) which is a visa authorisation that is issued by Turkmenistan immigration.

Only a Turkmenistan-registered tour company can apply for an LOI on behalf of a client. As part of the LOI process, visitors are required to book a tour with the sponsoring tour company.

My Letter of Invitation (LOI), which serves as a visa authorisation letter for Turkmenistan.

My Letter of Invitation (LOI), which serves as a visa authorisation letter for Turkmenistan.

The Letter of Invitation must be approved by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Ashgabat – a process which usually takes up to 3 weeks.

You cannot travel to Turkmenistan without an approved LOI.


Important: The LOI also includes dates of validity, including an expiry date, by which date you must have exited the country.

In order to remain flexible, its best if the tour company specifies tour dates which are in excess of your actual tour dates.

I travelled to Turkmenistan for 8 days. However, the tour company specified dates which were for one month which then meant that the LOI was valid for one month which allowed flexibility.

If there are issues with the dates on your LOI, the only option is to resubmit a new application, thereby starting the 3-week approval process all over again.

It’s always better to specify a much longer date range when applying for the LOI!    


Once issued, holders of an LOI can then obtain a visa-on-arrival (VOA) at Ashgabat International Airport.

The visa application process can be complex and time-consuming, and visitors are advised to apply well in advance of their planned travel dates.


Important:

It’s important that you make no firm travel plans, including the booking of flights and tours, until your LOI is approved.

Approval is not guaranteed! 


Once the LOI is issued, you are able to book flights and tours.

Upon arrival at Ashgabat International Airport, visitors must present their LOI at immigration who will issue a visa in their passport.

I paid US$99 for my visa, which had to be paid in USD cash.

Getting There

Air

Built at a cost of US$2.3 billion, the white-marble terminal at Ashgabat International Airport is built in the shape of a falcon in flight.

Built at a cost of US$2.3 billion, the white-marble terminal at Ashgabat International Airport is built in the shape of a falcon in flight.

Most international flights into Turkmenistan arrive at Ashgabat International Airport (IATA: ASB), which is one of two airports currently receiving international flights, with the other being the much quieter Turkmenbashi International Airport.

Ashgabat International Airport

Ashgabat International Airport, whose gleaming, white marble (of course!) terminal is built in the shape of a falcon, was reopened in September 2016 with a new state-of-the-art terminal and upgraded infrastructure facilities.

Formerly known as Saparmurat Turkmenbasy International Airport, it is located approximately 10km north-east of Turkmenistan’s capital city, Ashgabat.

My boarding pass, for my flight from Dubai to Ashgabat.

My boarding pass, for my flight from Dubai to Ashgabat.

Built at a cost of US$2.3 billion, the airport has a capacity to serve 14 million passengers per year at a rate of 1,600 passengers per hour. It is the largest airport terminal in Central Asia.

With just 2.5 million passengers in 2019, the airport certainly doesn’t suffer from capacity issues.

The newly redesigned airport also includes two 3,800-metre-long runways, which are capable of handling Airbus A380’s. Currently, no such aircraft fly to Ashgabat.

The airport serves as a hub for the local airline, Turkmenistan Airlines which operates services from Ashgabat, across Asia and into Europe.

Currently, just five airlines operate flights to Ashgabat International Airport, with one of those being the local carrier.

The strikingly beautiful departure hall at Ashgabat International Airport.

The strikingly beautiful departure hall at Ashgabat International Airport.

The following airlines operate scheduled services to/from Ashgabat International Airport:

  • China Southern Airlines – flies to/ from Ürümqi
  • flydubai – flies to/ from Dubai–International
  • S7 Airlines – flies to/ from Moscow–Domodedovo
  • Turkish Airlines – flies to/ from Istanbul
  • Turkmenistan Airlines – flies to/ from Almaty, Beijing–Capital, Daşoguz, Delhi, Dubai–International, Frankfurt, Istanbul, Kazan, Kerki, London–Stansted, Mary, Moscow–Domodedovo, Türkmenabat, Türkmenbaşy

Airport Transport

Tourists arriving in Turkmenistan will be fully escorted by their tour company. Four local bus routes operate between Ashgabat International Airport and downtown Ashgabat.

Land

Turkmenistan shares land borders with five neighboring countries: Iran to the south, Afghanistan to the southeast, Uzbekistan to the north and northeast, Kazakhstan to the northwest, and the Caspian Sea to the west.

Here’s a brief description of the land border crossings into Turkmenistan:

  • Iran-Turkmenistan Border Crossings: There are two main border crossings between Iran and Turkmenistan – Sarakhs (Iran) and Serakhs (Turkmenistan) in the south, and Bajgiran (Iran) and Gaudan (Turkmenistan) in the west. The Sarakhs border crossing is the busiest and most frequently used for crossing between the two countries. Both borders are open for traffic 24/7.
  • Afghanistan-Turkmenistan Border Crossings: There are two border crossings between Afghanistan and Turkmenistan – Imamnazar (Turkmenistan) and Akina (Afghanistan) in the southeast. Imamnazar is the most commonly used border crossing, and it is open for traffic 24/7.
  • Uzbekistan-Turkmenistan Border Crossings: There are three main border crossings between Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan – Farap (Turkmenistan) and Alat (Uzbekistan) in the north, Shavat (Turkmenistan) and Kungrad (Uzbekistan) in the northeast, and Khojeyli (Turkmenistan) and Nukus (Uzbekistan) in the northwest. Farap is the busiest border crossing between the two countries, and it is open for traffic 24/7.
  • Kazakhstan-Turkmenistan Border Crossings: There are two border crossings between Kazakhstan and Turkmenistan – Ozbekistan (Kazakhstan) and Dashoguz (Turkmenistan) in the northwest, and Bolashak (Kazakhstan) and Serhetyaka (Turkmenistan) in the west. Ozbekistan/Dashoguz border crossing is the most commonly used crossing, and it is open for traffic 24/7.

In general, travelers crossing the border into Turkmenistan are required to present a valid passport, visa (if required), and customs declaration form. It is recommended to check the latest border regulations and restrictions before travelling.

Sea

International ferries ply the waters of the Caspian Sea between Azerbaijan (Baku) and Turkmenistan (Turkmenbashi).

Full details are available on the Caravanistan website.

Getting Around

While all forms of public transport exist in Turkmenistan, including buses, shared long distance taxis, city taxis, trains and planes, all visitors will normally be escorted by their tour company. 

Car

My driver/ guide Rejep, with his trusty Toyota, at the Yangykala Canyon.

My driver/ guide Rejep, with his trusty Toyota, at the Yangykala Canyon.

During my first few days in Turkmenistan, I travelled in the western part of the country with an excellent driver/ guide – Rejep Shiriyev.

On the road with Rejep, travelling west towards Balkanabat.

On the road with Rejep, travelling west towards Balkanabat.

Rejep is an excellent driver and speaks very good English. He had an excellent knowledge of all the sites we visited.

I particularly enjoyed my homestay experience, being invited to stay with Rejep and his wonderful family in the city of Balkanabat.

When making a booking, you can request the services of Rejep through your tour company.

Highly Recommended!


Contact Details for Rejep Shiriyev

Address: Turkmenistan, 745100, Balkanabat 
Telephone: +993 641 65706
Skype: Shiriyev Rejep
E-mail:

Air

My boarding pass for my domestic flight from Turkmenbashi to Ashgabat.

My boarding pass for my domestic flight from Turkmenbashi to Ashgabat.

During my time in Turkmenistan, I took one domestic flight from Turkmenbashi International Airport to Ashgabat International Airport.

Despite its name, and the building of the Avaza Tourist Zone, the airport at Turkmenbashi International Airport currently only offers domestic flights.

Like everything else in Turkmenistan, my flight was organised by my tour company who had to pull some strings to find me a seat on the flight.

Apparently, domestic flights in Turkmenistan are sold out months in advance. Difficult to make lastminute bookings.

Shared Taxis

Shared taxis crisscross Turkmenistan, travelling on epic journeys through the vast, empty desert.

All taxis arrive on the outskirts of Ashgabat where they terminate at large taxi stations.


That’s the end of my Turkmenistan Travel Guide.

If you wish to provide feedback or leave a comment, please do so using the form below.

Safe Travels!
Darren


Further Reading

Other travel guides from the Central Asia region include:

Uzbekistan Photo Gallery

The Nadir Divan-Beghi Madrasah in Bukhara was originally intended to be a caravanserai but was instead inaugurated as a madrasah.

Uzbekistan Photo Gallery

This is an Uzbekistan Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Uzbekistan Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


 

Tajikistan Photo Gallery

Located in Rudaki park, a statue of Rudaki stands in front of a beautiful mosaic archway which features astronomical bodies.

Tajikistan Photo Gallery

This is a Tajikistan Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Tajikistan Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 

 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


 

Kazakhstan Photo Gallery

Stunning views are to be found everywhere at Big Almaty Lake.

Kazakhstan Photo Gallery

This is a Kazakhstan Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Kazakhstan Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


 

Kyrgyzstan Photo Gallery

Always resplendent in dazzling blue, lake Issyk-Kul is the seventh deepest, and tenth largest, lake in the world.

Kyrgyzstan Photo Gallery

This is a Kyrgyzstan Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide.


All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.


 


About taste2travel!

Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.

Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!

Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.

In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.

My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.

Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.

I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.

Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.

If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.

I hope you this gallery and my website.

Safe travels!

Darren


Follow me on Instagram: 


 

Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide

Cover Photo: Barskoon Valley

Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide!

Date Visited: August 2019

Introduction

With an abundance of jaw-droppingly beautiful scenery, friendly locals, fascinating culture, complex history, pristine nature, plentiful accommodation options and lots of quirky reminders of its recent Soviet past, Kyrgyzstan is the tourism darling of Central Asia.

If that’s not enough of an inducement, the country has the most relaxed visa policy of all the Central Asian republics, allowing visa-free travel to citizens of 69 countries, with everyone else able to apply for an e-Visa. This welcoming visa policy has resulted in Kyrgyzstan (officially the Kyrgyz Republic) becoming the gateway of choice for many travellers to Central Asia.

Handmade brooms for sale at the sprawling Osh bazaar.

Handmade brooms for sale at the sprawling Osh bazaar.

With 90% of its territory lying above 1,500 metres, winter time is not the time to visit Kyrgyzstan, unless you’re taking to the ski slopes.

As can be expected in a country where the vast majority of attractions are high altitude, summer time is peak season. And while the capital, Bishkek, can be swelteringly hot in the summer, elsewhere temperatures can fall below freezing in the evenings.

Always resplendent in dazzling blue, lake Issyk-Kul is the seventh deepest, and tenth largest, lake in the world.

Always resplendent in dazzling blue, lake Issyk-Kul is the seventh deepest, and tenth largest, lake in the world.

No matter how cold the temperature, one of the country’s main attractions, Lake Issyk-Kul, never freezes. During the height of winter, the water temperature of this salt-water lake – the world’s tenth largest lake – hovers between 2-3 degrees Celsius. While Issyk-Kul is a key attraction, there are almost 2,000 alpine lakes throughout Kyrgyzstan.

A yurt camp near lake Son-Kul.

A yurt camp near lake Son-Kul.

With so much of this alpine country inaccessible during the winter, summer time sees a migration of families and shepherds, who still practice the same nomadic lifestyle that has been an integral part of the culture of the region for centuries.

During the warmer months, whole families relocate to the jailoos (Alpine meadows), living in yurts while they tend to their flocks. In many remote regions, the only accommodation option available is with the nomads, who will happily accommodate you in one of their yurts. Welcoming and accommodating strangers is central to the nomadic way of life and staying in a yurt is an experience which shouldn’t be missed.

Spectacular scenery in the Barskoon Valley.

Spectacular scenery in the Barskoon Valley.

Of all the countries I visited in Central Asia, Kyrgyzstan was the most rewarding. As a destination, the country has much to offer and, year-on-year, tourism arrival numbers continue to grow with 1.4 million visitors arriving in 2018. While 80% of visitors come from Russia, or neighbouring Kazakhstan, arrivals from elsewhere continue to increase.

A view of the magnificent Lake Son-Kul, which is located at 3016 m (9,900 ft), and is only accessible during the summer months.

A view of the magnificent Lake Son-Kul, which is located at 3016 m (9,900 ft), and is only accessible during the summer months.

If you’re looking for an adventure destination, somewhere off the beaten track which offers superb hiking, culture, history, nomadic culture, amazing cuisine, and so much more, then now is the time to visit – before the tourist hoards arrive!

The beautiful lake Son-Kul is located in the middle of a remote alpine meadow at 3,016 m (9,900 ft). The only accommodation options are yurt camps.

The beautiful lake Son-Kul is located in the middle of a remote alpine meadow at 3,016 m (9,900 ft). The only accommodation options are yurt camps.

There is much to see and do in this amazing country, as such, this report is twice as long as most of my reports. If you wish to read the report in its entirety, you should get comfortable with a big cup or tea or coffee. Otherwise, you can dip into those sections you wish to read by using the ‘Table of Contents‘.

Location

Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan is located in the north-east part of Central Asia, in the very heart of Eurasia. An alpine country, there are more than 88 major mountain ranges in Kyrgyzstan, most of them forming the Tian Shan mountains which traverse the north and centre of the country, while the soaring peaks of the Pamir mountain range traverse the southern section of the country. These two mountain systems occupy about 65% of the national territory and are home to around 1,900 alpine lakes. 

The road which leads to Moldo-Ashuu pass, a high mountain pass which sits at an elevation of 3,346 m (10,977 feet)

The road which leads to Moldo-Ashuu pass, a high mountain pass which sits at an elevation of 3,346 m (10,977 feet)

Kyrgyzstan is completely landlocked, being bordered by China, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan (click links to read my travel guides from these destinations).

While the country is one of the smallest in Central Asia, extending 900 km (560 mi) from east to west and 410 km (250 mi) from north to south, poor infrastructure and impossibly mountainous terrain make most land journeys slow and arduous.

One of the highlights of Kyrgyzstan, lake Son-Kul is located at 3,016 m and is only accessible during the summer months.

One of the highlights of Kyrgyzstan, lake Son-Kul is located at 3,016 m and is only accessible during the summer months.

Lenin Lives!

During the days of the Soviet Union, giant statues of Lenin were ubiquitous, gracing the main square of most cities and towns across the Union. On the 26th of December 1991, the USSR was officially dissolved and, in the days and weeks following, as each republic claimed its independence, statues of the revolutionary leader were quickly removed.

A roadside monument to Lenin in Bishkek.

A roadside monument to Lenin in Bishkek.

However, this ‘cleaning out of the Soviet-past’ did not happen in Kyrgyzstan and today, Lenin statues can still be found in most towns and cities. While many Kyrgyz look to the future, and a new era of national history, many still yearn for the Soviet-past, and consider Lenin a hero. Today, the many Lenin statues in Kyrgyzstan lend an anachronistic air to the country!

A larger-than-life statue of Lenin towers over Lenin Avenue in Osh.

A larger-than-life statue of Lenin towers over Lenin Avenue in Osh.

The grandest Lenin statue is located in downtown Osh, where a giant Lenin, striking a familiar pose, looks out over Lenin Avenue.

Lenin in Bishkek's Ala Too square.

Lenin in Bishkek’s Ala Too square.

The most famous, and perhaps most controversial Lenin statue, is the one which use to stand defiantly in the main square of Bishkek. In 2003, a dozen years after his successors were knocked off their pedestals in the other republic capitals, the Lenin statue in Ala Too square was quietly relocated from the front of the square (where he use to point to the mountains) to the rear of the square (where he now points at the Kyrgyz government building).

Originally, the government wanted to remove the statue, but this caused an up-roar, so the decision was made to relocate him, 650 feet, to the rear of the State History Museum. Out-of-sight, but definitely not out-of-mind!

A very golden Lenin in Karakol.

A very golden Lenin in Karakol.

My favourite Lenin statue can be found adjacent to the main square in Karakol. Painted in gold, and looking like a character from Gold-finger, Lenin truly sparkles in the afternoon sunlight.

A portrait of Lenin, painted by an artist at an art market on Bishkek's Ala Too Square.

A portrait of Lenin, painted by an artist at an art market on Bishkek’s Ala Too Square.

Apart from the statues, portraits of Lenin are still popular among the Kyrgyz. Artists, which can be found in the art market adjacent to Ala Too square in Bishkek, continue to churn out standard images of the revolutionary leader which are available for purchase.

Then there’s the mountain…. Lenin Peak!

The snow-covered Lenin Peak (7,134 metres / 23,406 ft) marks the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.

The snow-covered Lenin Peak (7,134 metres / 23,406 ft) marks the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.

 

People

Lying at the crossroads between Europe and Asia, the people of Kyrgyzstan are predominantly Eurasian.

Lying at the crossroads between Europe and Asia, the people of Kyrgyzstan are predominantly Eurasian.

In the Turkic language, Kyrgyz literally means “a collection of forty tribes”, a reference which is today included on the national flag, with the yellow sun featuring 40 sunbeams (please refer to the ‘Flag‘ section for more on this). The early Kyrgyz people originated from areas which today lie in the west of Mongolia.

Relaxing in one of the many parks in Bishkek.

Relaxing in one of the many parks in Bishkek.

Ancient Chinese texts describe the Kyrgyz tribes as fair-skinned, green- or blue-eyed and red-haired people with a mixture of European and East Asian features.  With a current population of 6.2 million people, Kyrgyzstan is a cosmopolitan melting-pot which is home to groups of minorities from around the region.

The Kyrgyz family, and their adopted US Peace Corps volunteer, who I stayed with in a yurt camp at Lake Son-Kul.

The Kyrgyz family, and their adopted US Peace Corps volunteer, who I stayed with in a yurt camp at Lake Son-Kul.

This is especially so in the city of Osh, which, for centuries, served as an important junction on the Silk Road. Today, Osh is home to a large Uzbek community but has been influenced through the ages by travellers from well beyond the region.

Adding to the mix, during the Soviet-era, and especially under the rule of Stalin, large numbers of Russians were forcibly relocated to Kyrgyzstan, which influenced the ethnic composition in the region.

Living the fairy-tale! A Kyrgyz couple posing for the camera at the Fairy-tale canyon.

Living the fairy-tale! A Kyrgyz couple posing for the camera at the Fairy-tale canyon.

As a case in point – in the ‘Cafe‘ section below, I have included a photo of the wonderful Evgeniia, who is the resident Barista at Karakol Coffee. While the photo looks like a scene from a cafe in Eastern Europe, Evgeniia is a native of Karakol, a city which lies a short distance from China.

The felt Kalpak, or Ak Kalpak, is worn by Kyrgyz men as part of their everyday wardrobe.

The felt Kalpak, or Ak Kalpak, is worn by Kyrgyz men as part of their everyday wardrobe.

The Kyrgyz are predominantly Muslims, with Islam being introduced to the region by Arab traders who travelled along the Silk Road in the seventh and eighth centuries.

Flag

The flag of Kyrgyzstan, flying in Bishkek.

The flag of Kyrgyzstan, flying in Bishkek.

The flag of Kyrgyzstan consists of a red field with a bright, yellow sun at its centre. The sun features 40 sunbeams, which symbolises the unity between the 40 different tribes which have traditionally inhabited the region.

In the centre of the sun is a stylised illustration of the roof (tunduk), which is to be found atop a traditional Kyrgyz yurt – when viewed from the interior.

The Tunduk is seen here, in the interior of my yurt, on lake Son-Kul.

The Tunduk is seen here, in the interior of my yurt, on lake Son-Kul.

The Tunduk forms the centre-piece of all traditional yurts in Kyrgyzstan and has important meaning for the Kyrgyz, symbolising the unity between the nation and the universe. The Tunduk also allows sunlight to enter the yurt, forming a connection between the interior and exterior worlds!

This Kyrgyzstan flag adorns the wall of a colourful house in the town of Karakol.

This Kyrgyzstan flag adorns the wall of a colourful house in the town of Karakol.

Currency

My collection of brand new Som bank notes which I obtained from a bank in Bishkek.

My collection of brand new Som bank notes which I obtained from a bank in Bishkek.

Issued by the National Bank of the Kyrgyz Republic, the som (international currency code: KGS) is the currency of the Kyrgyz Republic. Notes are issued in denominations of 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000 and 5000 som.

Coins, which were introduced into circulation in 2008, are issued in denominations of 1, 10 and 50 tyin and 1, 3, 5 and 10 som.

The highest value bank note in Kyrgyzstan is 5,000 som, which is worth USD$71.

The highest value bank note in Kyrgyzstan is 5,000 som, which is worth USD$71.

Costs

A selection of Kyrgyzstan Som bank notes.

A selection of Kyrgyzstan Som bank notes.

Like other countries in the region, travel costs in Kyrgyzstan are very reasonable.

Suggested daily budgets: 

  • Backpacker: Up to USD$40 per day.
  • Flashpacker: Between USD$40 -$80 per day.
  • Top End: USD$80+

Sample costs: 

  • Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): 27 som (US$0.39)
  • Water (0.33 litre bottle): 18 som (US$0.26)
  • Cappuccino: 117 som (US$1.68)
  • Car Rental (daily 4WD through Kyrgyzstan Tours and Rent-a-Car Service): 5,585 som (US$80)
  • Litre of fuel: 39 som (US$0.56)
  • Meal (inexpensive restaurant): 275 som (US$3.94)
  • Meal for 2 (mid-range restaurant): 1000 som (US$14.32)
  • Dorm bed in a budget hostel (Apple Hostel, Bishkek): 698 som (US$10)
  • Room in a mid-range hotel (B Hotel, Bishkek): 5,373 som (US$77)
  • Room in a top-end hotel (Hyatt Regency Hotel, Bishkek): 15,000 som (US$215)

Connectivity

 

The first thing I purchase whenever I arrive in a new country is a local SIM card. Why pay expensive roaming fees when a local card costs peanuts and provides so much?

A great bargain in Kyrgyzstan is the tourist SIM card which is offered by O! Telecom. The card cost me 370 som (USD$5.30) and included good network connectivity (nation-wide), and two weeks of unlimited data. A worthwhile investment, especially if you need to use a navigational device while driving.

Sightseeing

A statue of Manus and the, well-guarded, flagpole on Ala-too square in Bishkek.

A statue of Manus and the, well-guarded, flagpole on Ala-too square in Bishkek.

Bishkek

I have to admit, when I first arrived in Bishkek (from Almaty), I was underwhelmed. A city full of drab, Soviet-era buildings and slightly down at heel was my first impression. While Bishkek does not offer the glitz and glamour of Almaty, it is a delightfully green, relaxing, capital which is easily negotiated on foot and full of post-Soviet anachronisms.

In the end, I stayed for almost a week, happily exploring the various cultural, culinary and recreational offerings. Most travellers I met stayed in town long enough to apply for a Tajikistan visa and make onward travel arrangements. However, if you stick around long enough to scratch beneath the surface, Bishkek will reveal its many charms.

Ala-Too Square

Manas Statue & National History Museum

The State History Museum and the statue to Manas, on Ala-Too square.

The State History Museum and the statue to Manas, on Ala-Too square.

The main square of Bishkek, Ala-Too square is dominated by an equestrian statue of local hero Manas. It is said that Manas united the forty different tribes to create the Kyrgyz nation. The pedestal now occupied by Manas was once occupied by Lenin, who has since been moved 650 feet to the rear of the State History Museum. For more on the Lenin statue, please refer to the ‘Lenin Lives‘ section.

The architecture surrounding the square is in the typical Soviet-era ‘neo-brutalist‘ style. One building which sets itself apart, however, is the huge modernist, cube-shaped, State History Museum, which was formerly known as the Lenin museum. At the time of my visit, the museum was closed for renovations and had been closed for some time.

Children cooling off in one of many fountains which line Ala-Too square.

Children cooling off in one of many fountains which line Ala-Too square.

While the museum might be closed, the many fountains, which line the square, are definitely open and are a popular playground for local kids who use them to cool off on hot summer days.

National Flagpole

The guarded flagpole in Bishkek's Ala-Too square.

The guarded flagpole in Bishkek’s Ala-Too square.

One of the quirkiest sights in Bishkek has to be the well-guarded flagpole which dominates Ala-Too square. The flagpole is guarded, during daylight hours, by two honour guards from the National Guard of the Armed Forces.

The replacement guards, from the National Guard of the Armed Forces, goose-stepping to the flagpole.

The replacement guards, from the National Guard of the Armed Forces, goose-stepping to the flagpole.

A changing of the guard ceremony takes place hourly, which sees three goose-stepping guards approach the flagpole from their base, which is located in the basement of the State History Museum. The guards goose-step about 200 metres until they reach the flagpole.

The former guards, preparing to return to their base.

The former guards, preparing to return to their base.

Once at the flagpole, the two replacement guards mount the podium and replace the former guards, who goose-step back with the third guard.

Goose-stepping guards, from the National Guard of the Armed Forces, returning to their base.

Goose-stepping guards, from the National Guard of the Armed Forces, returning to their base.

Ala-Too Cinema and Surroundings

The beautifully iconic Ala-Too cinema in downtown Bishkek.

The beautifully iconic Ala-Too cinema in downtown Bishkek.

Don’t be fooled by its retro appearance! While the Ala-Too cinema is the oldest, and most famous, cinema in Bishkek, it houses four theatres with all projection equipment having been updated in 2012 to allow the cinema to show 3-D films. Located on Ala-Too square, this iconic institution is listed as a cultural monument of the Kyrgyz Republic.

The splendid interior of the cafe, located behind the Ala-Too cinema in Bishkek.

The splendid interior of the cafe, located behind the Ala-Too cinema in Bishkek.

Behind the cinema is a small, rotunda-shaped, cafe which features a painted ‘tunduk’ on its ceiling. Outside the cafe is the ‘Kilometre Zero‘ marker, from which all road distances in Kyrgyzstan are measured.

Kyrgyz folk artwork on sale at the Ala-Too square art market.

Kyrgyz folk artwork on sale at the Ala-Too square art market.

Next to the ‘Kilometre Zero‘ marker, is an art market, where local artists paint and sell fine, but very affordable, examples of folk art, portraits of Lenin (see the portrait in the ‘Lenin Lives‘ section) and epic, alpine landscapes, which Kyrgyzstan has in abundance.

Monument to Those Who Died for Freedom

The Monument to Those Who Died for Freedom in downtown Bishkek.

The Monument to Those Who Died for Freedom in downtown Bishkek.

Located alongside Ala-Too square, on Chuy avenue, the ‘Monument to Those Who Died for Freedom‘ commemorates those who died during the pro-democracy events of 2002 and 2010.

The monument is made of two large tiled panels, one black and one white, with a group of people pushing the black stone away from the white.

Selling <i>Kashk or Qurt</i> - a hard, salty fermented cheese snack - in downtown Bishkek.

Selling Kashk or Qurt – a hard, salty fermented cheese snack – in downtown Bishkek.

 

Statue of Kozhomkul

The statue of the strongman, <i>Kozhomkul</i>, which stands outside the Sports Palace in downtown Bishkek.

The statue of the strongman, Kozhomkul, which stands outside the Sports Palace in downtown Bishkek.

There are many monuments in Bishkek, but my personal favourite would have to be the Statue of Kozhomkul, a local strongman who apparently carried his horse home on his shoulders after it became mired.

Fittingly, this impressive statue stands outside the Sports Palace which is named after Kozhomkul. The statue is tucked away in a quiet side street (Togolok Moldo St) one block west of Panfilov park.

Panfilov Park

The Ferris wheel is one of many affordable amusements at Panfilov park in downtown Bishkek.

The Ferris wheel is one of many affordable amusements at Panfilov park in downtown Bishkek.

The capitals of all ex-Soviet republics feature a permanent amusement park and in Bishkek, Panfilov park is where local families congregate.

Located next to Ala-Too square, Panfilov park, which is free to enter, is home to an assortment of amusements and carnival rides, and is especially popular in the evenings when locals come to relax, eat fairy-floss, try their luck shooting at balloons or bumping into each other on bumper cars.

Victory Square

The <i>Victory Monument</i> in Bishkek's Victory park commemorates the victory over Nazi Germany during WWII.

The Victory Monument in Bishkek’s Victory park commemorates the victory over Nazi Germany during WWII.

Located a short walk east of Ala-Too square, Victory park commemorates the victory over Nazi Germany during WWII. The park was created in 1984, on the occasion of the 40th anniversary of the liberation of the USSR.

At the heart of the park is a red-granite monument which is designed to evoke three yurt struts, which curve above an eternal flame. Standing under the struts is a woman, waiting for her husband to return home.

Bishkek Circus

Looking like a UFO which has landed in downtown Bishkek, the Kyrgyz State Circus stages regular circus performances.

Looking like a UFO which has landed in downtown Bishkek, the Kyrgyz State Circus stages regular circus performances.

If strolling along Frunze street towards Victory Square, you might be forgiven for thinking a UFO has landed in Bishkek. This strange looking, other-worldly, structure is actually the Kyrgyz State Circus. Just like the amusement park at Panfilov park, each Soviet capital also had a dedicated, permanent state circus building.

Bishkek Parks

Bishkek truly is a green city with parks occupying many downtown city blocks.

Bishkek truly is a green city with parks occupying many downtown city blocks.

Many cities claim to be green but Bishkek really is a green city. You can traverse the downtown area by hopping from one park to another.

There are countless green ‘lungs’ in Bishkek, with each park offering plenty of shady bench seats, sculptures, fountains and colourful garden beds. Thanks to a constant supply of fresh water from the Tian Shan mountains, everything is kept lush and green.

Bishkek Shopping

Bishkek Park

Bishkek Park mall offers the best shopping in Bishkek.

Bishkek Park mall offers the best shopping in Bishkek.

There are a few shopping malls in Bishkek, including the ubiquitous TSUM department store, which can be found in every ex-Soviet capital. The best mall is the modern Bishkek Park, which is located at 132 Kiev street, one block back from the main street.

Saima

You too can be a nomad with a 'DIY Yurt Kit' - a popular item at Saima.

You too can be a nomad with a ‘DIY Yurt Kit’ – a popular item at Saima.

If you’re looking for quality souvenirs, there’s only one place to go – Saima, which can be found on the main street at 140 Chuy avenue.

 


The Art of Felting

Kyrgyz yurts, such as these on Lake Son-Kul, are always wrapped in large sheets of water-proof, and insulating, felt.

Kyrgyz yurts, such as these on Lake Son-Kul, are always wrapped in large sheets of water-proof, and insulating, felt.

Traditionally, sheep herding was the main activity of the Kyrgyz nomads. Wool was something they had in abundance, so the production of felt, which is made by matting, condensing and pressing wool (and other animal) fibres together, was a logical bi-product from their lifestyle.

The colourful felt slippers from the Saima in Bishkek are an ideal (and practical) souvenir.

The colourful felt slippers from the Saima in Bishkek are an ideal (and practical) souvenir.

Felt production has been an important part of Kyrgyz nomadic culture since at least the Iron age. During the days of the Great Silk Road, felt was among the products traded by the Kyrgyz. Felt has many useful qualities – it’s water-resistant and insulating. The main use for felt has been as a covering for yurts – it keeps the elements out, while keeping the heat in. 

Today, artisans craft a variety of products from felt, including slippers, coats, hats, decorations, carpets and more. While products are sold country-wide, the Tumar Art Salon in Bishkek carries many fine examples of felt handicrafts. 

At just US$5 each, felt Kalpak's, available from Saima in Bishkek, are an affordable souvenir of Kyrgyzstan.

At just US$5 each, felt Kalpak’s, available from Saima in Bishkek, are an affordable souvenir of Kyrgyzstan.


Burana Tower

Burana Tower, a 24 metre-high brick minaret which dates from the 11th-century.

Burana Tower, a 24 metre-high brick minaret which dates from the 11th-century.

Located 83 km southeast of Bishkek, on the outskirts of the town of Tokmok, Burana Tower is a 24-metre-high, ornately decorated, brick minaret which was once part of the ancient citadel of Balasagun, which was founded by the Sogdians. Located off the main highway, Burana is a popular side-trip for those travelling from Bishkek to Lake Issyk-Kul.

A UNESCO World Heritage site, today the minaret stands alone in the middle of a remote, grassy field. An internal, spiral staircase, leads to the top of the tower which affords panoramic views of the Tian Shan mountains and the surrounding countryside.

An ancient Muslim gravestone at Burana tower.

An ancient Muslim gravestone at Burana tower.

A short walk (100 metres) north of the tower, a pathway leads you through a cemetery where ancient Muslim gravestones, carved in Arabic text can be observed.

Lake Issyk-Kul

The best beaches on lake Issyk-Kul are to be found on its southern shore.

The best beaches on lake Issyk-Kul are to be found on its southern shore.

In a country bursting with amazing sites, the magnificent lake Issyk-Kul is a highlight. Located at an altitude of 1,607 metres (5,272 ft), the statistics are impressive; Issyk-Kul is 182 kilometres (113 mi) in length, up to 60 kilometres (37 mi) wide, and has a surface area of 6,236 square kilometres (2,408 sq mi).

It’s the second-largest mountain lake in the world, behind Lake Titicaca in South America. By volume, it’s the world’s 10th largest lake. At a maximum depth of 668 metres (2,192 ft), Issyk-Kul is the seventh deepest lake in the world. While the lake has more than 118 recorded ‘inflows’, it has no ‘outflows’, with hydrologists hypothesising that the waters of the lake filter deep underground.

With water temperatures above 20 degrees during the summer, and lots of sandy shoreline, the beaches of lake Issyk-Kul are popular with local families.

With water temperatures above 20 degrees during the summer, and lots of sandy shoreline, the beaches of lake Issyk-Kul are popular with local families.

Despite being surrounded by snow-covered peaks, the saline waters of Issyk-Kul never freeze. During the summer months, water temperatures hovering above 20 degrees which makes the numerous sandy beaches a popular recreation choice for tourists and locals.

Karakol

Relaxed and chilled Karakol (pop: 66,000) is one of the most important tourism hubs in Kyrgyzstan. Located at the eastern end of lake Issyk-Kul, the town itself has few attractions, but it’s surrounded by an array of incredible sights, which makes it a perfect base for day-trips into the countryside.

The town, which is laid out on a very logical grid, was founded in 1869 by the Russians, who built it to serve as an administrative centre on the caravan route from Chuy Valley to Kashgar (China). The town, which lies close to the Chinese border, boasts an eclectic mix of ethnicities, including Kyrgyz, Russians, Kazakhs, Tatars and Uighur’s.

Gingerbread Houses

Karakol is famous for its Russian-style <i>Gingerbread</i> houses.

Karakol is famous for its Russian-style Gingerbread houses.

One of the joys of exploring downtown Karakol is to walk the picturesque streets, which are shaded by rows of huge white poplars and lined with colonial-era, Russian gingerbread cottages.

Painted in bright colours, the cottages feature shuttered windows, neat flower-beds, fruit trees and cute picket fences.

In a town full of decorated cottages, the Nadia Gaga house is in a league of its own.

In a town full of decorated cottages, the Nadia Gaga house is in a league of its own.

Holy Trinity Cathedral

A Russian orthodox church, the all-timber, Holy Trinity Cathedral, is one of the main sights of historic Karakol.

A Russian orthodox church, the all-timber, Holy Trinity Cathedral, is one of the main sights of historic Karakol.

Located downtown, the Holy Trinity Cathedral is a Russian Orthodox church which dates from 1872, although the current version dates from 1895, after the original was destroyed by an earthquake in 1890. This imposing wooden structure is topped by five green towers which are crowned by golden, onion-shaped domes.

The altar of the Holy Trinity Cathedral in Karakol.

The altar of the Holy Trinity Cathedral in Karakol.

After the October Revolution, within the framework of the Soviet campaign against religion, the Bolsheviks removed the domes and turned the church into a children’s sport school.

Dungan Mosque

With its Chinese-design influences, the Dungan mosque looks more like a Chinese temple.

With its Chinese-design influences, the Dungan mosque looks more like a Chinese temple.

Exotic-looking, incongruous and definitely out-of-place, Dungan mosque is an anomaly which looks more like a Buddhist temple than a mosque.

Constructed in 1902, on the initiative of a local Muslim leader, Ibrahim Aji, who invited a famous Beijing architect, Chou Seu to design and build a mosque, the temple was built by a team of 20 Chinese woodworkers, who were skilled at building Chinese-style buildings. The end result was a mosque which looks, unmistakably, like a Chinese-style temple.

Interior view of the Dungan mosque.

Interior view of the Dungan mosque.

Karakol Historical Museum

The Karakol Historical Museum.

The Karakol Historical Museum.

The highlight of the low-key Karakol Historical Museum is the large taxidermy display. Taxidermy was a popular form of exhibit for the Russians, with most museums in the ex-Soviet world boasting impressive collections of stuffed critters.

The large taxidermy display at the Karakol History Museum.

The large taxidermy display at the Karakol History Museum.

Jeti-Ögüz

Jeti-Ögüz, which translates as <i>Seven bulls</i>, is a sandstone formation which rises from a lush green valley.

Jeti-Ögüz, which translates as Seven bulls, is a sandstone formation which rises from a lush green valley.

One worthwhile day-trip from Karakol is to the stunningly beautiful Jeti-Ögüz, which translates as ‘seven bulls‘. Located in a quiet valley, 25 km west of Karakol, the seven bulls are a red sandstone ridge which rises up out of a lush, green valley, through which a powerful mountain stream flows.

Five of the Jeti-Ögüz <i>bulls</i> can be seen more clearly from this angle.

Five of the Jeti-Ögüz bulls can be seen more clearly from this angle.

The stream supports a rural village (which is worth exploring), a community of bee-keepers and yurt camps, where tourists can sip tea and pose for photos with impressive eagles.

A curious local in the village at Jeti-Ögüz.

A curious local in the village at Jeti-Ögüz.

During my visit, the countryside was full of colourful, wild flowers, which contrasted nicely with the surrounding red sandstone.

Two young eagle handlers from Jeti-Ögüz, rent their pet raptors out to tourists for the ultimate selfie photo.

Two young eagle handlers from Jeti-Ögüz, rent their pet raptors out to tourists for the ultimate selfie photo.

Central Asia is the birthplace of the ancient tradition of eagle hunting. Today however, these majestic birds do less hunting and more posing for selfies with tourists.

The <i>Broken Heart</i> rock at Jeti-Ögüz.

The Broken Heart rock at Jeti-Ögüz.

As you drive through the valley towards Jeti-Ögüz, you’ll encounter young Kyrgyz entrepreneurs who, for a small fee of course, will let you pose with their impressive pet eagles.

The ultimate wind barrier - a yurt camp, protected by the towering walls of Jeti-Ögüz.

The ultimate wind barrier – a yurt camp, protected by the towering walls of Jeti-Ögüz.

The detox drink of choice in Kyrgyzstan is Kumis, which is made from fermented mare’s milk. Slightly alcoholic, Kumis is lauded by the Kyrgyz for its physical and mental benefits – so it must be good for you! In the village of Jeti-Ögüz, there are many mare’s which are milked by local farmers.

Milking a mare in the village of Jeti-Ögüz.

Milking a mare in the village of Jeti-Ögüz.

Bee Keepers of Jeti-Ögüz

Bee hives at Jeti-Ögüz are kept on the back of trailers which allows them to be easily relocated.

Bee hives at Jeti-Ögüz are kept on the back of trailers which allows them to be easily relocated.

The quiet road, which passes through the lush, green valley towards Jeti-Ögüz, is an ideal place for local bee-keepers to tend their hives. The countryside is full of wild flowers and the apiarists are able to produce their honey and sell it to passing tourists. If you’re lucky enough you might be able to observe a bee-keeper collecting honey from his hives.

The bee keeper at Jeti-Ögüz, applying smoke to the recently-opened hive.

The bee keeper at Jeti-Ögüz, applying smoke to the recently-opened hive.

This sequence of photos shows a beekeeper inspecting his hives to determine which frames to harvest.

I should point out that I am allergic to bees and while taking these photos, I was surrounded by a swarm of thousands of bees, many of whom kept bumping into me! I’m pleased to report that I finished the shoot without being stung.

The bee-keeper at Jeti-Ögüz extracts each honeycomb frame from the hive to determine which ones are ready to be harvested.

The bee-keeper at Jeti-Ögüz extracts each honeycomb frame from the hive to determine which ones are ready to be harvested.

 

A frame, loaded with bees and fresh honeycomb.

A frame, loaded with bees and fresh honeycomb.

 

Straight from the hive and full of goodness, freshly bottled honey for sale at Jeti-Ögüz.

Straight from the hive and full of goodness, freshly bottled honey for sale at Jeti-Ögüz.

 

My container of fresh Jeti-Ögüz honey, which cost me just 100 som (US$1.40).

My container of fresh Jeti-Ögüz honey, which cost me just 100 som (US$1.40).

Barskoon Valley

My amazing, go-anywhere, Toyota Land Cruiser rental car in the stunning Barskoon valley.

My amazing, go-anywhere, Toyota Land Cruiser rental car in the stunning Barskoon valley.

Located 100 km southwest of Karakol, the Barskoon valley is a remote area of incredible beauty, and has been used as the cover photo for this report.

The road through the valley, which is located a short distance inland from the southern shore of lake Issyk-Kul, use to serve as a Silk Road trading route, connecting Kyrgyzstan with the province of Xinjiang in north-western China.

A shepherd with his flock in the Barskoon valley.

A shepherd with his flock in the Barskoon valley.

While driving my rental car through the valley, I saw little transport. If you’re relying on public transport, you can (apparently) get a Marshrutka to the town of Barskoon then hire a taxi to take you into the valley.

The Barskoon river flows through the valley, which is home to a couple of waterfalls, shepherds tending to huge flocks of sheep and a bust of the famous cosmonaut – Yuri Gagarin.

The face of the famous Russian cosmonaut, <i>Yuri Gagarin</i>, is carved into a boulder in the Barskoon valley.

The face of the famous Russian cosmonaut, Yuri Gagarin, is carved into a boulder in the Barskoon valley.

The face of cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin, who was the first human to journey into outer space, is carved into a large boulder, which lies on the side of the road, deep inside the Barskoon valley. It’s said that Yuri visited this spot shortly after his historic spaceflight and even possibly stood on this rock!

Skazka Fairy Tale Canyon

The incredible formations of the Skazka Fairy Tale canyon have been created over millennia by erosion.

The incredible formations of the Skazka Fairy Tale canyon have been created over millennia by erosion.

Continuing west along lake Issyk-Kul from the Barskoon valley, the landscape changes, becoming more arid and sandier. It’s here where you’ll find the best (sandy) beaches and also the incredibly beautiful Skazka Fairy Tale Canyon.

Looking like an artist's palette, minerals in the earth provide a splash of colour at Skazka Fairy Tale canyon.

Looking like an artist’s palette, minerals in the earth provide a splash of colour at Skazka Fairy Tale canyon.

The canyon, which is located between the Barskoon valley and the town of Bokonbayevo, is a short walk inland from the main highway which travels along the lake shore. A series of (unmarked) walking tracks leads you up and over eroded sandstone mounds which have been eroded into photogenic shapes.

The colourful earth of the Skazka Fairy Tale canyon contrasts brilliantly against the blue sky.

The colourful earth of the Skazka Fairy Tale canyon contrasts brilliantly against the blue sky.

The colourful soil, which result from minerals in the earth, contrasting against the blue skies make for amazing photography in the late afternoon.

Bokonbayevo

A bust of Lenin outside a government building on the main street of Bokonbayevo.

A bust of Lenin outside a government building on the main street of Bokonbayevo.

There’s nothing much to do in the sleepy town of Bokonbayevo but, as the largest settlement west of Karakol, the town makes for a handy base if you wish to explore the attractions on the south shore of lake Issyk-Kul. I stayed overnight on my drive from Karakol to lake Son-Kul.

Issyk-Kul to Son-Kul

Located west of Lake Issyk-Kul, the landscape surrounding Orto Tokoy reservoir is spectacular.

Located west of Lake Issyk-Kul, the landscape surrounding Orto Tokoy reservoir is spectacular.

It could be said that, ‘around every bend in the road in Kyrgyzstan, lies another spectacular view’. This is especially true of the journey from Lake Issyk-Kul to Lake Son-Kul, where you encounter one breath-taking view after another.

Note: If you’re self-driving with the aid of a navigation app such as Google Maps or Waze, you will lose network coverage as you approach Lake Son-Kul. However, this is not a problem as there’s only one road to and from the lake.

The Orto Tokoy reservoir is fed by the Chu River.

The Orto Tokoy reservoir is fed by the Chu River.

A short drive west of lake Issyk-Kul lies the incredibly beautiful, Orto Tokoy reservoir. The reservoir is formed by a dam on the Chu river, with an impressive, bare-earth, mountain range forming the perfect background. Stunning!

A colourful sandstone mountain outside the town of Kochkor.

A colourful sandstone mountain outside the town of Kochkor.

Continuing west, the town of Kochkor lies 40 km beyond Orto Tokoy reservoir. 

Kochkor serves as a junction town, allowing you to approach lake Son-Kul from either the east (a much short route) or the west (a much, much longer route). I approached from the west.

The following photos show the scenery from the westerly route.

A hilltop Islamic Tomb outside of Kochkor.

A hilltop Islamic Tomb outside of Kochkor.

 

Green hills on the way to lake Son-Kul.

Green hills on the way to lake Son-Kul.

 

An Islamic Tomb on the road to lake Son-Kul.

An Islamic Tomb on the road to lake Son-Kul.

 

Scenery on the road to Lake Son-Kul.

Scenery on the road to Lake Son-Kul.

Song-Kul

The mesmerisingly beautiful Lake Son-Kul lies at 3,006 metres and is only accessible during the warmer months.

The mesmerisingly beautiful Lake Son-Kul lies at 3,006 metres and is only accessible during the warmer months.

Perched at 3016 m (9,900 ft), the serenely beautiful Lake Son-Kul is a truly special place. Inaccessible for half of the year, there are no permanent structures on the lake. Nomads from villages lower down the mountain relocate to the shores of the lake during the summer months, offering yurt accommodation to any tourist who finds their way here. While there are no shops, no network coverage for mobile phones, there is fresh air, nature, sublime scenery and basic yurt camps.

The meadows surrounding lake Son-Kul are carpeted with Edelweiss.

The meadows surrounding lake Son-Kul are carpeted with Edelweiss.

The lake is located in the middle of a remote, alpine meadow which is carpeted in white Edelweiss. I lived for a few years in Switzerland, and while “Edelweiss’ is the national flower of Switzerland, I saw very little of it there. However, the meadow surrounding lake Son-Kul is carpeted with it.

A young boy playing on a traditional Kyrgyz swing on the shore of lake Son-Kul.

A young boy playing on a traditional Kyrgyz swing on the shore of lake Son-Kul.

Access to the lake is via a rough gravel road which is open during the summer months. Although 4WD is best, locals do venture here in their beat-up Ladas.

Horses grazing on the shore of lake Son-Kul.

Horses grazing on the shore of lake Son-Kul.

If you enjoy horse riding, you can organise treks through the different families who own the yurt camps. During the summer, each family transports their animals up to the lake, where the summer pastures offer ample feed. As in other nomadic cultures of Central Asia, horse riding is a national pastime among the Kyrgyz.

My host family, and their adopted US Peace Corps volunteer, outside one of their yurts, on lake Son-Kul.

My host family, and their adopted US Peace Corps volunteer, outside one of their yurts, on lake Son-Kul.

While on lake Son-Kul, I stayed in a yurt camp owned by a family whose regular home is in the village of Ak-Tal, which is located further down the mountain.

The family relocate each summer to the lake shore, where they offer comfortable yurt accommodation for passing tourists (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section for more).

Also working at the yurt camp was a US Peace Corps volunteer, which was wonderful as he provided translation services and could provide me with detailed information on the culture and lifestyle of the Kyrgyz nomads.

Each morning, one of the family members separates cream from the fresh milk. This is then served with pancakes and jam for breakfast.

Each morning, one of the family members separates cream from the fresh milk. This is then served with pancakes and jam for breakfast.

Son-Kul to Kazaman

A short drive south of Lake Son-Kul, the Moldo-Ashuu pass lies at 3,346 m (10,980 ft).

A short drive south of Lake Son-Kul, the Moldo-Ashuu pass lies at 3,346 m (10,980 ft).

As the crow flies, it’s 103 km from lake Son-Kul to the regional centre of Kazarman, which is located at the mid-way point between Son-Kul and Osh. However, by road, it’s a full day’s journey, along never-ending, windy, narrow, mountainous gravel roads, which traverses two spectacular passes.

The first pass you cross, after leaving lake Son-Kul, is Moldo-Ashuu which offers dramatic views to the south. You’ll know when you’ve reached the pass because you’ll see all the locals sitting around chatting on their mobile phones. This is the only place for miles with network coverage!

Stunning scenery on approach to Ak Tal village.

Stunning scenery on approach to Ak Tal village.

 

This road is marked on Google maps as the 'highway' between Ak Tal and Kazaman. <i><b>This road is closed and should be avoided!</b></i>

This road is marked on Google maps as the ‘highway’ between Ak Tal and Kazaman. This road is closed and should be avoided!

It’s important to note that the ‘highway’ which is indicated on Google Maps, and which Miss Google will direct you to use, has long been out of service.

I know this, because I followed the road for 30 lonely kilometres before it dead-ended at a collapsed bridge which had fallen into a raging river. To reach Kazarman, you should take the, unmarked, gravel road, north of the river, as indicated on the map below.

The current highway to Kazarman (indicated by arrow) is an unmarked gravel road.

The current highway to Kazarman (indicated by arrow) is an unmarked gravel road.

 

Spectacular views from the road to Kazarman.

Spectacular views from the road to Kazarman.

 

More stunning views from the Kazarman highway.

More stunning views from the Kazarman highway.

 

The last pass before reaching Kazarman, the Kara-Koo Pass is located at 2,800 metres (9,186 feet).

The last pass before reaching Kazarman, the Kara-Koo Pass is located at 2,800 metres (9,186 feet).

 

A view east from the Kara-Koo Pass.

A view east from the Kara-Koo Pass.

There’s nothing much to do in Kazarman, although there are some petroglyph’s near to town. There are no hotels, but a CBT office can arrange a home-stay for you (refer to the ‘Accommodation‘ section below).

The Road to Osh

A truck loaded with hay outside of Kazarman.

A truck loaded with hay outside of Kazarman.

The road from Kazarman to Osh descends from the high mountains to the hot, dry plains of the Fergana Valley, a part of Kyrgyzstan steeped in history. From Kazarman, it’s a 6-hour, 550 km drive to Osh. On the approach to Jalal-Abad, you finally drive back onto a smooth asphalt road, the first such road this side of Kochkor.

Sheep are mustered at the Kaldama pass, where they await their turn to be shorn.

Sheep are mustered at the Kaldama pass, where they await their turn to be shorn.

After leaving Kazarman, the gravel road ascends, steeply, to the Kaldama pass (3,062 m / 10,045 ft), which forms the border between Naryn and Jalal-Abad oblast (region).

A shearer, shearing one of hundreds of sheep, at the Kaldama pass.

A shearer, shearing one of hundreds of sheep, at the Kaldama pass.

At the time of my visit to Kaldama pass, local sheep farmers had congregated with their large flocks of sheep, each awaited their turn to be shorn by a team of shearers, who processed hundreds of sheep, under the sun, using hand shears.

More sheep arriving at Kaldama pass, to await their appointment with the shearer.

More sheep arriving at Kaldama pass, to await their appointment with the shearer.

From the pass, its a downhill run to the city of Jalal-Abad, with the (still gravel) road passing through cultivated countryside.

A patch-work quilt of cultivated fields, on the road to Jalal-Abad.

A patch-work quilt of cultivated fields, on the road to Jalal-Abad.

Osh

Osh State University.

Osh State University.

Located in the heart of the, baking hot, Fergana valley, and with a history spanning more than 3,000 years, Osh is one of the oldest settlements in Central Asia and historically, served as an important junction town in the days of the Great Silk Road. After the capital, Bishkek, Osh is the 2nd largest city in Kyrgyzstan, supporting a population of 256,000.

Due to its location and history, the city is a melting pot of everything ‘Central Asian’. Located a short drive from the Uzbek border, Osh is home to a variety of ethnic groups, including a large Uzbek community. The city is a fascinating and engaging destination, which deserves at least a few days on anyone’s itinerary.

Sulaiman-Too Mountain

The view of downtown Osh from the summit of Sulaiman-Too mountain.

The view of downtown Osh from the summit of Sulaiman-Too mountain.

Rising abruptly from the plains of the Fergana Valley, in the heart of downtown Osh, Sulaiman-Too (translates as ‘Solomon’s Throne’) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which offers the best views of the city and surrounding countryside.

Historically, the mountain marked the midpoint on the ancient Silk Road, halfway between Europe and Asia. Named after Sulaiman (Solomon), who is a prophet in the Quran, the mountain contains a shrine that supposedly marks his grave.

Locals sliding down the smooth, polished, limestone rock on Sulaiman-Too mountain.

Locals sliding down the smooth, polished, limestone rock on Sulaiman-Too mountain.

Geographically, the mountain is a giant piece of limestone, which, over millennia has become slippery and polished by the trampling feet of scores of Islamic pilgrims and tourists. One attraction on the slope of the mountain is the polished rock, a smooth limestone boulder which is used as a natural slippery-dip.

Interior of the National Historical and Archaeological Museum at on Sulaiman-Too mountain.

Interior of the National Historical and Archaeological Museum at on Sulaiman-Too mountain.

Built into a cave in the side of the mountain, the National Historical and Archaeological Museum showcases archaeological findings from the area and explains the history of Osh.

Jayma Bazaar

The spice section of the sprawling Jayma Bazaar in Osh.

The spice section of the sprawling Jayma Bazaar in Osh.

Osh is famous for the sprawling Jayma bazaar, which has been in operation, on the same site, for more than 2,000 years. The huge market stretches for kilometres along the western bank of the Ak-Bura river, which flows through the heart of Osh.

A shop-keeper at the Jayma bazaar in Osh.

A shop-keeper at the Jayma bazaar in Osh.

Along with a steady stream of tourists, traders, and customers, flock to the bazaar from all over Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. If you are travelling on to either of those countries, the money changers at the bazaar offer competitive rates on Tajik somani and Uzbek som.


Osh Soviet-era Murals

The <b><i>Fabric</i></b> mosaic is installed on the wall of a local technical college and shows three different workers, with one holding a length of red cloth, a symbol of communism.

The Fabric mosaic is installed on the wall of a local technical college and shows three different workers, with one holding a length of red cloth, a symbol of communism.

During the Soviet era, throughout all cities and towns, colourful and gigantic murals and mosaics were installed on otherwise blank walls to deliver messages of Soviet ideology and to inspire citizens with beautiful everyday surroundings.

While many cities, in a bid to modernise, have destroyed these reminders of the past, Osh still retains many of these retro pieces of street-art.

The<b><i>Aeroflot</b></i> mosaic, which adorns the wall of a building in a quiet lane way, was created as an advertisement for the 1980's Moscow Olympics.</i></b></i></b>

The Aeroflot mosaic, which adorns the wall of a building in a quiet lane way, was created as an advertisement for the 1980’s Moscow Olympics.

While some of the murals, such as ‘Fabric’ are easy to find, others such as ‘Aeroflot’ and ‘Misha’ are more difficult to find, being tucked away in quiet lane-ways.

Also created for the 1980's Moscow Olympics, <b><i>Misha</b></i> is hiding away in a lane-way near the Aeroflot mosaic.

Also created for the 1980’s Moscow Olympics, Misha is hiding away in a lane-way near the Aeroflot mosaic.

If you wish to easily locate the murals, a Google map, with all the murals bookmarked, on the timetravelturtle website is especially handy.


Osh to Tajikistan

Located at 3,500 m (11,500 ft), the high-altitude Tulpar-Kul mountain lake is located in Chon-Alay mountain range, near to the border of Tajikistan.

Located at 3,500 m (11,500 ft), the high-altitude Tulpar-Kul mountain lake is located in Chon-Alay mountain range, near to the border of Tajikistan.

From Osh, I joined a one week 4WD trip along the Pamir Highway to Dushanbe in Tajikistan – for more on this trip, please refer to my Tajikistan Travel Guide.

A curious Yak on the shore of Lake Tulpar-Kul.

A curious Yak on the shore of Lake Tulpar-Kul.

The first stop on the trip, and my last destination in Kyrgyzstan was Lake Tulpar-Kul, which is located at a height of 3,500 m (11,500 ft), in a remote corner of the country, in the shadow of Lenin Peak (7,134 m / 23,406 ft).

An early morning view of Lenin Peak (7,134 m / 23,406 ft) from the Lenin Peak Yurt camp.

An early morning view of Lenin Peak (7,134 m / 23,406 ft) from the Lenin Peak Yurt camp.

The lake is home to the Lenin Peak Yurt Camp (see theAccommodationsection below) which is used as a base for climbers who use the camp to acclimatise prior to their ascent of Lenin peak. The camp is located at the end of a long, gravel road, which winds its way through the countryside for 35 km, south of the town of Sary Mogul.

There are many hiking trails around the shoreline of the pristine Lake Tulpar-Kul.

There are many hiking trails around the shoreline of the pristine Lake Tulpar-Kul.

The Road to Tajikistan

One last view of Kyrgyzstan, from the Kyzylart Pass (4,280 m / 14,042 ft), before crossing into Tajikistan.

One last view of Kyrgyzstan, from the Kyzylart Pass (4,280 m / 14,042 ft), before crossing into Tajikistan.

From the Lenin Peak Yurt camp, we had a short (one hour) drive south to the Kyzylart Pass which forms the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan and located at a lofty 4,280 m (14,042 ft).

It was time to say goodbye to Kyrgyzstan and hello to Tajikistan.

The border marker between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan at the Kyzylart Pass.

The border marker between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan at the Kyzylart Pass.

Accommodation

Kyrgyzstan offers a multitude of accommodation options in the main centres of Bishkek, Osh, Karakol and around the shoreline of Lake Issyk-Kul.

Elsewhere, options are thin on the ground with home-stays filling the void. If you arrive in a town without any established accommodation options, you should seek out the local office of the CBT (Community Based Tourism) which can arrange a local home-stay. There are fifteen branches of the CBT, which can be found in most major towns.

In remote, rural areas, including the popular Son-Kul lake, Yurt camps are the only accommodation option. These allow visitors to experience life in a Kyrgyz felt tent and to sample the nomadic style of living.

Bishkek

The recently renovated and refurbished <i>B Hotel</i> is a comfortable option in downtown Bishkek.

The recently renovated and refurbished B Hotel is a comfortable option in downtown Bishkek.

Bishkek offers a range of accommodation to suit all budgets.

Located in the heart of downtown, the excellent ‘B Hotel‘ offers spacious, comfortable, recently renovated rooms, friendly, helpful staff and a delicious buffet breakfast each morning.

Rooms can be booked on Booking.com for around US$77 per night. The hotel is especially popular with visiting Arab families, who jet in on one of the regular flights from Dubai.

My comfortable and spacious room at the B Hotel in downtown Bishkek.

My comfortable and spacious room at the B Hotel in downtown Bishkek.

Around the corner from the B Hotel is the wonderful Park Hotel which offers rooms on Booking.com, starting at US$99 per night. All rooms include a buffet breakfast which includes caviar!

Lake Issyk-Kul

A view of one of the accommodation buildings at the Altyn Bulak Lakeside Resort.

A view of one of the accommodation buildings at the Altyn Bulak Lakeside Resort.

Located on the north shore of lake Issyk-Kul, the town of Cholpon-Ata is home to several accommodation options and, thanks to its close proximity to Bishkek, is popular with weekend tourists.

I spent one night at the Altyn Bulak Lakeside Resort, which is a Kyrgyz version of an all-inclusive resort, which is popular with local families. Despite the fact that there are currently no reviews on TripAdvisor, or that the resort doesn’t appear to have a website, this large, sprawling property offers a variety of accommodation, an onsite restaurant (there are no other dining options in the area) and a beach.

Newly built yurts at the Altyn Bulak Lakeside Resort offer panoramic views of Lake Issyk-Kul.

Newly built yurts at the Altyn Bulak Lakeside Resort offer panoramic views of Lake Issyk-Kul.

During my visit, new yurts were being installed, each of which offered panoramic views of the lake. Rooms can be booked on hotels.com for around US$50 per night, which includes breakfast.

Karakol

My cosy room at the wonderful <i>Hillside Four Seasons</i> in Karakol.

My cosy room at the wonderful Hillside Four Seasons in Karakol.

As one of Kyrgyzstan’s main tourist hubs, Karakol offers plenty of accommodation options from cheap and cheery hostels to deluxe hotels.

While in town, I chose to stay at the mid-range, Hillside Four Seasons, which is located on a hill, a few kilometres southeast of downtown Karakol.

In a country which offers so many wonderful accommodation choices, Hillside was one of my favourites but is best suited to those who have their own transport (although taxis can be ordered).

The spotlessly clean rooms at the <i>Hillside Four Seasons</i> in Karakol feature modern bathrooms, wood-panelled walls and wooden floors.

The spotlessly clean rooms at the Hillside Four Seasons in Karakol feature modern bathrooms, wood-panelled walls and wooden floors.

This recently built property features beautifully designed rooms, with the most comfortable beds, and a large living area which includes a fully equipped kitchen, projector screen, board games, a guitar, and some comfy bean bags, which are very inviting! The whole place is very chilled and relaxed and is managed by the owner, Ahmet, and his wonderful family.

A standard double room on Hotels.com costs US$48 which is a complete bargain for what is a beautifully designed and well-appointed space. The bargain rates also include a freshly prepared breakfast.

Bokonbayevo

My room at the <i>Emily Guest House</i> in Bokonbayevo, a typical Kyrgyz home-stay style room.

My room at the Emily Guest House in Bokonbayevo, a typical Kyrgyz home-stay style room.

Located a few kilometres south of the southern shore of lake Issyk-Kul, the small, unremarkable, town of Bokonbayevo makes for a convenient overnight base if you’re visiting the nearby Fairy-tale canyon or any of the popular beaches which line the southern shore of Lake Issyk-Kul. If driving from Karakol to Lake Son-Kul, the town lies at about the half-way point.

While there are no established hotels in town, the cosy Emily Guest House offers a typical home-stay experience with meals served in a yurt, which has been installed in the back garden. The guest house is located in a quiet, unpaved, suburban backstreet at Toigonova, 83 which, rather unhelpfully, has no signage to indicate that it is indeed a guest house.

Lake Son-Kul

My colourful Yurt accommodation on Lake Son-Kul. I was the only guest at the camp.

My colourful Yurt accommodation on Lake Son-Kul. I was the only guest at the camp.

A highlight of my trip to Kyrgyzstan was being able to spend time at a yurt camp on the remote shores of Lake Son-Kul.

Located in the middle of nowhere, at an elevation of 3016 m (9895 feet) above sea level, the lake is inaccessible for half of the year during the long, freezing winter months.

Once the spring thaw melts the snow and ice, locals, who live in the lower village of Ak-Tal, relocate up to the lofty heights of the lake shore, where they setup yurt camps for the summer tourist season.

Due to its seasonal nature, the lake remains free from any sort of development or permanent structures, which is its appeal.

Yurt #6 - my cosy home (with plenty of parking for my Toyota Land Cruiser) on Lake Son-Kul.

Yurt #6 – my cosy home (with plenty of parking for my Toyota Land Cruiser) on Lake Son-Kul.

If you’re planning on staying at the yurt camps, you should know that these are temporary nomad camps, which offer very basic facilities. What’s carried up the mountain at the beginning of the season needs to be carried back down the mountain at the end of the season.

There are no shops or petrol stations anywhere in this part of the country. You should carry extra fuel and any food or drinks you may need. 

The improvised shower block at the yurt camp on Lake Son-Kul, where ice-cold mountain water is heated using a manure-fired stove.

The improvised shower block at the yurt camp on Lake Son-Kul, where ice-cold mountain water is heated using a manure-fired stove.

It’s worth mentioning that the lake lies in a giant WiFi black spot with the nearest signal available at Moldo-Ashuu, a high mountain pass which sits at an elevation of 3,346 m (10,977 feet) on the road between Son-Kul and the village of Ak-Tal.

While there are some bookable yurt camps listed on sites such as booking.com, it’s best not to book them as you cannot call anyone once at the lake and signage is non-existent. Rather than wasting your time looking for a yurt camp you have pre-booked, you can check into any number of camps which are dotted around the southern shore of the lake. I was the only guest at my camp!

Kazarman

The dusty, provincial, town of Kazarman lies along the long, meandering, never-ending, slow, gravel road which connects lake Son-Kul to Osh. The town, which makes for an ideal base after a long day of driving, does not have any established hotel options, but does offer a few comfortable home-stays which can be booked through the friendly, English-speaking, lady who runs the local Kazarman CBT office.

While the CBT office functions as a home-stay, I stayed with a nearby family who offer several comfortable rooms with traditional meals served in their kitchen.

Osh

My room at the <i>Rayan hotel</i> in Osh.

My room at the Rayan hotel in Osh.

Another favourite accommodation option in Kyrgyzstan is the wonderful Rayan Hotel, which is located in downtown Osh. The hotel is designed to cater to both tourists and business travellers, which is wonderful for those of us who occasionally need to plug-in and work on a laptop.

The well-designed, modern, comfortable rooms can be booked on Hotels.com for around US$60 per night, which includes a buffet breakfast with eggs freshly prepared to order. A laundry service is available with a full bag of washing costing me about US$5.

Lenin Peak

My yurt (#5) at the spectacularly beautiful, but incredibly cold, Lenin Peak Yurt camp.

My yurt (#5) at the spectacularly beautiful, but incredibly cold, Lenin Peak Yurt camp.

Like lake Son-Kul, the only accommodation option at Lenin Peak is the CBT-run yurt camp. Located at the foot of Lenin Peak – 3,500 metres (11,482 ft) above sea level – the camp lies 35 km south of the village of Sary-Mogol and is often used by groups of climbers as a base, allowing them to acclimatise prior to making their ascent.

Eating Out

The cuisine of Kyrgyzstan is very similar to the cuisine of the other Central Asian republics, with restaurant menus featuring steamed dumplings (known throughout the region as ‘Manti‘), noodle soup (known everywhere as ‘Lagman‘), Plov (a Central Asian version of Pilaf rice), barbecued meats (Shashlik) and salads which are based on tomato and cucumber – all of which are served with a basket of bread.

Restaurants

Bishkek

Cyclone Restaurant

The Cyclone restaurant in Bishkek offers <i>Wine Therapy</i>. Yes please!

The Cyclone restaurant in Bishkek offers Wine Therapy. Yes please!

Eureka! After travelling the globe, I finally found a place offering Wine Therapy. Is it any wonder I found myself dining at the wonderful Cyclone restaurant more than once?

Offering the best of Italian cuisine, and a selection of amazing wines, Cyclone is located on the main street at 136 Chuy Avenue (just along from Ala Too square). We all need some wine therapy and I’m happy to share this discovery with you! Cheers!

Torro Grill & Bar

If you’re in the mood for a good steak, it’s hard to beat the Torro Grill & Bar. The beef medallions, served with three different homemade sauces, are divine. All the beef served at Torro is sourced from their own local farm and, judging by the flavour, and tenderness of the meat, it would seem the cows live a good life.

The restaurant features a white stretch limousine, which is parked inside the restaurant, into which a couple of dining tables have been installed. Located at 93 Shopokov street (opposite Victory Park), Torro also features a bar which is worth checking out on the weekends.

Frunze Restaurant

A very tasty, and stylised, <i>Chicken Kiev</i> at the Frunze Restaurant.

A very tasty, and stylised, Chicken Kiev at the Frunze Restaurant.

Owned by the Kaynar Group, a dynamic local catering and restaurant company, the spacious and opulent Restaurant Frunze serves as a restaurant and art gallery.

Offering several large dining halls, each decorated in a different style, the restaurant combines fine dining (I recommend their Chicken Kiev) with art exhibitions which change on a monthly basis.

The restaurant is located at 220A Abdymomunova street, around the corner from the M V Frunze museum.

Karakol

The bakeries of Karakol market are famous for their <i>Mai Tokoch</i>, a round Uighur-style bread which is baked in a clay tandoori oven.

The bakeries of Karakol market are famous for their Mai Tokoch, a round Uighur-style bread which is baked in a clay tandoori oven.

I have to confess – on my first night in Karakol, I was directed to the restaurant Dastorkan by my hotel receptionist and, having being wowed on the first visit, kept returning each day to sample more of their amazing dishes.

The restaurant, which is a favourite of visiting tour groups, and offers a nightly entertainment schedule which features traditional Kyrgyz musicians, is a tourist trap, but the food is authentic and delicious. If you have yet to try a Lagman soup or Manti dumplings, this is the place to initiate yourself into the world of ‘national’ Kyrgyz cuisine.

Cafes

Very cute cafe latte art at Adriano Coffee in Bishkek!

Very cute cafe latte art at Adriano Coffee in Bishkek!

If, like me, caffeine is an essential part of your day, you’ll be happy to know that there is a healthy cafe culture in Kyrgyzstan with excellent options available in Bishkek, Osh and Karakol.

Note: In Central Asia, the term ‘Cafe’ is used to refer to a ‘Cafeteria‘ where pre-cooked meals are served from a buffet and where you’ll definitely not find a decent cup of coffee. If you’re looking for a cappuccino, cafe latte or any other sort of Italian-style coffee, you need to ask for a ‘coffee house‘.

Bishkek

There's only one place in Bishkek for a proper coffee - Adriano Coffee.

There’s only one place in Bishkek for a proper coffee – Adriano Coffee.

The best coffee house in Bishkek is Adriano coffee. The best thing about Adriano coffee? There are seven branches in Bishkek, so you’re never far from your next caffeine fix. The coffee at Adriano is the best I found in Bishkek, while the menu items make for a pleasant break from the usual offering of ‘national’ cuisine.

The main branch, which seems to attract every visitor in town, is located at 87 Isanov Street, a short walk off the main street – Chuy street – just look for the giant green ‘A‘ out front.

Another worthwhile branch can be found alongside Victory Park, in the modern Business Park complex on Sultan Ibraimov street.

Karakol

<i>Karakol Coffee</i> is a magnet for visiting travellers, where the wonderful Evgeniia works her Barista magic!

Karakol Coffee is a magnet for visiting travellers, where the wonderful Evgeniia works her Barista magic!

There are a few wannabe coffee houses in Karakol but the only real coffee house is Karakol Coffee. Located downtown at 112 Toktogul Street, this is the kind of funky cafe you would expect to find in any cosmopolitan city in Europe, North America, Australia etc – but here it is, lighting up the cafe scene in tiny Karakol.

If you’re unsure whether you should make the journey to Karakol Coffee, the tempting photos on their website will probably win you over. The menu items are delicious but you should save room for their homemade cakes which are divine.

Osh

<i>Coffee House Brio</i> in Osh ticks all the boxes for what makes an outstanding cafe - amazing coffee, great food, free WiFi, good networking opportunities and a relaxing ambience that can easily trap you.

Coffee House Brio in Osh ticks all the boxes for what makes an outstanding cafe – amazing coffee, great food, free WiFi, good networking opportunities and a relaxing ambience that can easily trap you.

While Karakol Coffee is wonderful, I would have to nominate Coffee House Brio as my favourite cafe in all of Kyrgyzstan. Located in downtown Osh at 211 Kurmanjan-Datka Street, this cafe offers wonderful coffee, delicious food and a large dining area which is always full of local peace corps volunteers or travellers planning their next move.

If you’re looking to connect with other travellers, gain some insights from those who have just finished a journey along the Pamir Highway or who have recently arrived from Uzbekistan, this is the place to be.

Bars

Despite being a predominantly Muslim country, Kyrgyzstan, like other Central Asian republics, lived for many years under Soviet rule, where religion was banned and alcohol flowed freely. Due to its recent history, alcohol is available and bars can be found in all major cities.

While in most places standalone bars do not exist, almost all restaurants offer alcohol with your meal.

In Bishkek, the Torro Grill & Bar (93 Shopokov street) is very animated on a Friday night and is a good place to rub shoulders with locals and expats. If you’re in the mood to party, the Chebak Pub (213 Chuy Avenue) has live music most nights and a lively crowd.

Visa Requirements

My Kyrgyzstan Passport Stamp.

My Kyrgyzstan Passport Stamp.

Of all the countries in Central Asia, Kyrgyzstan has the most relaxed visa policy, allowing citizens of 69 countries to enter visa-free, while all other passport holders can apply for an e-Visa.

To check your requirements, refer to the Visa Policy of Kyrgyzstan.

Getting There

Air

Scheduled international flights to Kyrgyzstan arrive at Manas International Airport (IATA: FRU), which is the primary gateway to the country, located 25 kilometres (16 miles) northwest of Bishkek. The secondary gateway is Osh Airport (IATA: OSS) which is located 15 minutes north of Osh city centre.

Manas International Airport

Manas International airport serves as a base for no less than four small, national carriers (consolidation anyone?); Air Manas, Air Kyrgyzstan (website only in Russian), TezJet Airlines (website only in Russian) and the Avia Traffic Company, which has the unfortunate distinction of being banned from operating in the EU.

The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from Manas International Airport:

  • Aeroflot – flights to/ from Moscow–Sheremetyevo
  • Air Arabia – flights to/ from Sharjah
  • Air Astana – flights to/ from Almaty, Nur-Sultan
  • Air Kyrgyzstan – flights to/ from Osh
  • Air Manas – flights to/ from Chelyabinsk, Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen, Krasnoyarsk–Yemelyanovo, Moscow–Domodedovo, Moscow-Zhukovsky, Novosibirsk, Osh, Perm, Tashkent
  • Avia Traffic Company – flights to/ from Delhi, Dushanbe, Grozny, Irkutsk, Jalal-Abad, Kazan, Krasnodar, Krasnoyarsk–Yemelyanovo, Moscow–Domodedovo, Moscow-Zhukovsky, Novosibirsk, Osh, St Petersburg, Surgut, Voronezh, Yekaterinburg
    Azimuth Rostov-on-Don
  • China Southern Airlines – flights to/ from Ürümqi
  • flydubai – flights to/ from Dubai–International
  • Pegasus Airlines – flights to/ from Istanbul–Sabiha Gökçen
  • S7 Airlines – flights to/ from Novosibirsk
  • Qazaq Air – flights to/ from Almaty
  • TezJet Airlines – flights to/ from Batken, Jalal-Abad, Osh
  • Turkish Airlines – flights to/ from Istanbul, Ulaanbaatar
  • Ural Airlines – flights to/ from Moscow–Domodedovo, Moscow-Zhukovsky, St Petersburg, Yekaterinburg
  • Uzbekistan Airways – flights to/ from Tashkent

Manus Airport Transport

When using taxis in Bishkek, it’s always best to use the local version of Uber – Yandex Taxi. A taxi to/ from Bishkek to the airport will cost around 700 soms (USD$10).

Osh Airport

The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from

  • Aeroflot – flights to/ from Moscow–Sheremetyevo
  • Air Kyrgyzstan – flights to/ from Abakan, Bishkek, Krasnoyarsk–Yemelyanovo, Surgut
  • Air Manas – flights to/ from Bishkek, Dushanbe, Krasnoyarsk–Yemelyanovo
  • Avia Traffic Company – flights to/ from Bishkek, Irkutsk, Krasnoyarsk-Yemelyanovo, Moscow–Domodedovo, Moscow–Zhukovsky, Novosibirsk, St. Petersburg, Surgut, Yekaterinburg
  • China Southern Airlines – flights to/ from Ürümqi
  • flydubai – flights to/ from Dubai
  • Qazaq Air – flights to/ from Almaty
  • S7 Airlines – flights to/ from Moscow–Domodedovo, Novosibirsk
  • TezJet Airlines – flights to/ from Bishkek
  • Ural Airlines – flights to/ from Anapa, Chelyabinsk, Kazan, Krasnodar, Krasnoyarsk–Yemelyanovo, Moscow–Domodedovo, Moscow–Zhukovsky, Nizhnevartovsk, Nizhny Novgorod, Samara, Sochi, St. Petersburg, Tyumen, Volgograd, Voronezh, Yekaterinburg

Osh Airport Transport

  • When using taxis in Osh, it’s always best to use Yandex Taxi. A taxi to/ from downtown Osh costs between 200-300 som.
  • Marshrutka (mini bus) #107 or #142 serve the airport between 7 am and 7 pm.

Land

A political map of Kyrgyzstan. <br><i>Source: nationsonline.org</br></i>

A political map of Kyrgyzstan.
Source: nationsonline.org

Kyrgyzstan shares land borders with Kazakhstan, China, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. The fastest and most comfortable way to travel into and out of Kyrgyzstan is with shared taxis which run to and from most borders.

As with other countries in the CIS world, not all border crossings into Kyrgyzstan are multilateral (i.e. open to foreigners). Always check first, before heading to the border. Another restriction applies to those entering on an e-Visa. Currently there are 12 border crossings open to such travellers.

Kazakhstan

On the road in a shared taxi from Almaty to Bishkek.

On the road in a shared taxi from Almaty to Bishkek.

In the north, Kyrgyzstan shares a 1,211 km (753 mi) border with Kazakhstan. There are currently 4 crossings open, with the busiest being the Kordai crossing, which is on the main highway between Bishkek and Almaty.

For more on Kazakhstan, including its entry requirements, please refer to my Kazakhstan Travel Guide.

China

In the east, Kyrgyzstan shares a 1,063 km (660 mi) border with China. There are currently 2 crossings open with the Irkeshtam pass (accessible via Osh then Sary Tash) being the easiest of the two crossings.

Tajikistan

On the Pamir Highway, south of Sari Tash, approaching the Kyrgyzstan/ Tajikistan border.

On the Pamir Highway, south of Sari Tash, approaching the Kyrgyzstan/ Tajikistan border.

In the south, Kyrgyzstan shares a 983 km (611 mi) border with Tajikistan. There are currently 4 crossings open with the remote, high-altitude, Pamir Highway crossing at Kyzylart – Bor Dobo (south of Sary Tash) being the most popular with tourists. If you are planning to cross this border, you’ll need a Tajikistan visa and a GBAO permit (Gorno-Badakshan Autonomous Oblast).

For more on Tajikistan, including its entry requirements, please refer to my Tajikistan Travel Guide.

Uzbekistan

In the west, Kyrgyzstan shares a 1,314 km (816 mi) border with Uzbekistan. There are currently 2 crossings open with the main border crossing on the road between Osh and Andijon (Uzbekistan) being the busiest. Land transport (road and rail) between Bishkek and Tashkent goes via Kazakhstan. 

For more on Uzbekistan, including its entry requirements, please refer to my Uzbekistan Travel Guide.

Train

In the mood for an odyssey?

Trains between Bishkek and Moscow run several times a week, completing the 3,714 km (2,307 mi) journey in 3 days, 18 hours, with a change required in Ekaterinburg. When will the Russians catch the ‘bullet-train fever’ which has changed the travel landscape in neighbouring China? Ticket prices, availability and route maps can be viewed online at tutu.travel.

Getting Around

The <i>Zero Kilometre</i> marker in Bishkek, from which all road distances in Kyrgyzstan are measured.

The Zero Kilometre marker in Bishkek, from which all road distances in Kyrgyzstan are measured.

Public Transport

A bus in downtown Bishkek.

A bus in downtown Bishkek.

Unlike most other ex-Soviet capitals, there is no metro operating in Bishkek. The main form of public transport is bus and mini-buses, known locally as Marshrutkas. While buses tend to operate within urban centres, Marshrutkas offer city and intra-city services.

If you wish to view the different bus routes in Bishkek, you can do so here.

<i>Marshrutkas</i> are a popular form of transport throughout Central Asia.

Marshrutkas are a popular form of transport throughout Central Asia.

Taxi

Yandex Taxi is an online ride-sharing service which was launched in 2011 and is now present in most of Central Asia. In 2018, Yandex and Uber merged their operations in the region. The Yandex app can be downloaded onto a smartphone and, in terms of functionality, is very similar to Uber.

Within Kyrgyzstan, Yandex is currently active in Bishkek and Osh.

Rental Car

A much needed car wash in Osh! <i>Before</i> and <i>after</i> photos of my amazing, go-anywhere, Toyota Land Cruiser, perfect for the rough Kyrgyzstan roads.

A much needed car wash in Osh! Before and after photos of my amazing, go-anywhere, Toyota Land Cruiser, perfect for the rough Kyrgyzstan roads.

Car rental is becoming more popular in Kyrgyzstan, with more visitors wishing to be fully independent to explore the amazing scenery of this spectacularly beautiful alpine country. With the notoriously terrible roads being constantly improved, and the corrupt police (look out for all the roadside speed checks!) becoming more friendly towards tourists, the stars are slowly aligning for the car rental industry.

If you plan on driving around Kyrgyzstan, it’s essential that you have connectivity to the internet as you will get lost without a navigational app such as Google Maps or Waze.

Journey’s in Kyrgyzstan can be long and arduous, with most highways being rough, corrugated, pot-holed, gravel, narrow roads which wind up and down one mountain pass after another. While roads in the vicinity of Bishkek, Osh and lake Issyk-Kul are well maintained, elsewhere, they are diabolical. This is no place for a regular 2WD compact rental!

However, nowhere is off-limits to a local and his ‘go-anywhere’ Lada. From the middle of a paddock, to a mountain pass, to a river crossing, the tiny Lada can be found everywhere and are the work horses of Central Asia, being employed as family cars, farm wagons and freight carriers.

With a rental car, the whole country is accessible, including the remote yurt camps at Lake Son-Kul where parking is never a problem.

With a rental car, the whole country is accessible, including the remote yurt camps at Lake Son-Kul where parking is never a problem.

While car rental is becoming more popular, few rental companies exist in Bishkek, and finding an available car can be a challenge. The international rental chains have not made it to Kyrgyzstan, however agents in nearby Almaty (Kazakhstan), such as Hertz, will allow you to drive across the border into Kyrgyzstan. For more on rentals from Almaty, please refer to my Kazakhstan Travel Guide.

Adding to the challenge, most of the companies are locally run, have very small fleets (normally less than 5 cars in total) and don’t accept credit cards. Luckily, withdrawing cash on a credit card at a bank in Bishkek is a very easy process and took me less than 5 minutes.

After much searching, I found an excellent Toyota Land Cruiser, which I rented for US$80 per day through the amazingly entrepreneurial Almaz Alzhambaev of Kyrgyzstan Tours and Rent-a-Car Service in Bishkek. Almaz has a fleet of 7 cars, although he only has one amazing Toyota Land Cruiser.

If I thought US$80, per day, was expensive at the beginning of the trip, by the end of the trip – having driven on the longest and roughest of dirt roads, climbed the steepest of unpaved mountain passes, forded river crossings and driven, off-piste, many times, all without any mechanical issues, then $80 seemed to be a bargain. During two weeks of enduring punishment, the Toyota Land Cruiser never stopped performing and was always 100% reliable!

Filling up my two-tank Land Cruiser at a petrol station in the remote town of Ak-Tal, the first and only station in hundreds of miles.

Filling up my two-tank Land Cruiser at a petrol station in the remote town of Ak-Tal, the first and only station in hundreds of miles.

In addition to its mechanical reliability, the Land Cruiser was fitted with dual-fuel tanks, which is a great advantage in a country where distances, in remote regions, between petrol stations can be vast. While other motorists carried around containers full of spare fuel, I had a second tank, full of fuel, as a backup. I could have driven to Mongolia without refuelling!

Almaz allows one-way rentals, which gave me the flexibility to drive from Bishkek to Osh, where, two weeks later, he flew-in to meet me, then drove the car back to Bishkek, a 10.5-hour journey covering 611 km along windy, mountainous roads. For this, he charged me US$120.

Almaz advised that his cars can be driven across borders into neighbouring countries, once insurance paperwork has been completed. For this, he charges an additional fee of US$40. If you’re heading into Tajikistan, car rentals are non-existent, so it’s best to hire in Kyrgyzstan. I would highly recommend Almaz for all your rental car needs.

Contact details for Almaz:

The Kyrgyzstan license plate on my rental car.

The Kyrgyzstan license plate on my rental car.


That’s the end of my Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren


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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Central Asia region:

Additional blogs, articles and information on Kyrgyzstan are available on the Indy Guide website.

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Uzbekistan Travel Guide

The Kalyan Mosque and Minaret in Bukhara.

Uzbekistan Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Uzbekistan Travel Guide!

Date Visited: August 2019

Introduction

From the fabled Silk Road cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva, Uzbekistan offers more sightseeing, culture, history and spellbinding architecture than any other destination in Central Asia.

The towering Islam Khoja Minaret in Khiva.

The towering Islam Khoja Minaret in Khiva.

The land of the infamous conqueror, Tamerlane, known locally as Timur, Uzbekistan has been a centre of culture and powerful empires for more than two millennia. All of this activity has left a dazzling array of sights which are easily explored thanks to the regions only high-speed rail network.

Detail of tile work in the Guri Amir, the mausoleum of Timur in Samarkand.

Detail of tile work in the Guri Amir, the mausoleum of Timur in Samarkand.

Despite being a police state, which is ruled by an autocratic government (see ‘Politics‘ below for more), Uzbekistan is a tourist-friendly destination, which has been made even friendlier thanks to a recent relaxing of visa requirements which now allows many nationalities to visit for 30 days without a visa.

The Kalyan minaret in Bukhara so impressed Genghis Khan that he ordered it to be spared when he sacked the city.

The Kalyan minaret in Bukhara so impressed Genghis Khan that he ordered it to be spared when he sacked the city.

While the Uzbeks are reserved, and almost no one speaks anything other than Uzbek and Russian, the locals are friendly and will go out of their way to help you – if asked. If you have any command of the Russian language, your travel experience will be significantly enhanced.

Uzbekistan Travel Guide: Hand-carved, wooden, souvenir fridge magnets for sale in Bukhara.

Hand-carved, wooden, souvenir fridge magnets for sale in Bukhara.

Uzbekistan has a rich history, culture and a cuisine which is similar to the cuisines found in other Central Asian countries. The arts and crafts of Uzbekistan have been famous for centuries, a tradition which continues today, with expert wood carvers, metal workers, carpet weavers, embroiders and more still plying their trade in regional craft centres.

Colourful woollen yarn at a carpet co-operative in Khiva old town. o-operative in Khiva old town.

Colourful woollen yarn at a carpet co-operative in Khiva old town.

The old towns of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva are full of shops offering fine examples of these arts and crafts at very reasonable prices.

A brass metal worker in Bukhara.

A brass metal worker in Bukhara.

The main tourist centres of Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva offer plenty of accommodation options to suit all budgets, lots of restaurants and enough impressive monuments that after some time, you’ll be happy to never see another blue tile in your life!

The incomplete Kalta-minor Minaret in Khiva.

The incomplete Kalta-minor Minaret in Khiva.

Uzbekistan is open for tourism and the hordes have already arrived, but the country is one of the most rewarding and engaging destinations in Central Asia. A travel highlight!

Location

Tashkent, Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan has the distinction of being one of just two countries in the world which is doubly-landlocked (that is, a country completely surrounded by landlocked countries), the other being Liechtenstein. The country borders all four of the Central Asian republics, with Kazakhstan to the north, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan to the east and Turkmenistan to the south. Uzbekistan also shares a short border with Afghanistan in the south.

With a total area of 447,400 square kilometres (172,700 sq. mi), Uzbekistan is the 4th largest country among the CIS (Commonwealth of Independent States) countries.

People

Worldwide fashion trends have bypassed Uzbekistan, with Uzbek woman typically wearing very old-fashioned clothing styles.Worldwide fashion trends have bypassed Uzbekistan, with Uzbek woman typically wearing very old-fashioned clothing styles.

Worldwide fashion trends have bypassed Uzbekistan, with Uzbek woman typically wearing very old-fashioned clothing styles.

With a population of 32 million, Uzbekistan is the 2nd most populous CIS country, after Russia. Uzbeks comprise 80% of the total population with Russians, Kazakhs and Tajiks making up the remainder. The country is largely Islamic, with 88% of the population practising Islam.

An Uzbek walking through Khiva old town.

An Uzbek walking through Khiva old town.

The Uzbeks are a Turkic ethnic group who speak Uzbek, which is written in the Latin alphabet, rather than the regional default of Cyrillic. Unlike other Central Asian states, the Russian language is less used, although Tashkent is predominately a Russian speaking city. The Uzbeks also constitute minority populations in Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, Russia and China.

Flag

The flag of Uzbekistan.

The flag of Uzbekistan.

The flag of Uzbekistan consists of three horizontal bands; blue, white and green, which are separated by two thin red bands.

Souvenir flags of Uzbekistan on sale in Khiva.

Souvenir flags of Uzbekistan on sale in Khiva.

The white stands for peace and purity, blue represents water and the sky while the green represents nature and fertility (but is also the colour of Islam).

The thin red stripes represent the “life force” within everyone, the crescent symbolises “the rebirth of Uzbekistan as an independent country, while the twelve stars represent the twelve regions of the country.

The flag of Uzbekistan flying in Khiva.

The flag of Uzbekistan flying in Khiva.

Currency

Uzbek som currency, showing the newly released 100,000 som note.

Uzbek som currency, showing the newly released 100,000 som note.

The currency of Uzbekistan is the som (currency code: UZS), a currency which is normally handled in wads.

My first encounter with the som was at the Tajikistan border crossing, where I handed a small pile of Tajik somani to a money changer, who then handed me a couple of large wads of Uzbek som, wrapped in elastic bands.

At the time of my visit (August 2019), USD$1 was buying 9,348 som. The most common notes on issue are the 1,000 som (US$0.11) and 5,000 som (US$0.55).

In 2017, the Central Bank of Uzbekistan, provided some relief for consumers when it issued a new 10,000 som (US$1.07) note, then in 2017, the bank issued a 50,000 som (US$5.35) note.

The latest issue is a new 100,000 som (US$10.70) note which was issued in February 2019. However, this note is rarely seen, with the most common notes in circulation being the 1,000 and 5,000 som. I once changed USD$100 at the bank and was handed 934,800 som in 5,000 som notes (shown below).

My wad of 5,000 som notes, which were handed to me at the bank after I changed USD$100.

My wad of 5,000 som notes, which were handed to me at the bank after I changed USD$100.

The prevalence of so many low-value notes has meant that the Uzbeks have become expert money counters, with most locals having developed a special technique for counting large wads of cash by flicking notes through their fingers – almost as quickly as a note counting machine. Most businesses, even small ones, have electronic note counters, allowing wads of currency to be counted quickly.

When changing money, you need to keep your exchange receipts, as these will be required in the event that you need to re-convert any unspent som back to US dollars or Euros. To check the current som exchange rate against the US dollar, click here.

Money Matters

MasterCard users beware!

Like Tajikistan, Uzbekistan is not a MasterCard-friendly destination, with just one bank, Asaka bank, accepting the card. If you’re using Visa card, you’ll find these are more widely accepted.

Asaka bank has a very limited branch network (almost all are in Tashkent) and just one ATM in popular tourist destinations such as Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. If you rely on drawing cash from ATM’s using your MasterCard, you’ll need to plan ahead.

In Tashkent, Asaka bank maintain a small exchange booth in the lobby of the Radisson Blu hotel. The bank also has an ATM in the lobby of the hotel where you can use your MasterCard (and Visa) to withdraw Uzbek som and US dollars. In Samarkand, an Asaka ATM can be found inside the Registan complex.

It’s best to carry US dollars or Euros cash to cover your stay in Uzbekistan.

When changing cash, banks will carefully inspect each note to ensure they are pristine. If any notes are less than perfect (i.e. torn, written on, taped together etc), they will not be accepted.

Like other countries in the region, Uzbekistan is a cash society. Credit cards are rarely accepted by merchants.

Costs

Travel costs in Uzbekistan are more than reasonable! The country is a travel bargain, thanks to the low value of the Uzbek som against the US dollar and Euro, which are the best currencies to carry with you.

Sample costs: 

  • Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): 5,500 som (US$0.59)
  • Water (0.33 litre bottle):  1,870 som (US$0.20)
  • Cappuccino (at Illy cafe in Tashkent):  12,200 som (US$1.30)
  • Bus/ Metro Ticket in Tashkent: 1,200 som (US$0.15)
  • Yandex taxi within downtown Tashkent: 10,000 – 20,000 som (US$1 – 2)
  • Litre of fuel: 4,870 som (US$0.52)
  • Meal (inexpensive restaurant): 32,800 (US$3.50)
  • Meal for 2 (mid-range restaurant): 140,000 som (US$15.00)
  • Dorm bed in a budget hostel (Art Hostel, Tashkent): 84,200 som (US$9)
  • Room in a mid-range hotel (Hotel Bek, Samarkand): 533,800 som (US$57)
  • Room in a top-end hotel (Radisson Blu hotel, Tashkent): 1,400,000 som (US$150)

 

Internet Connectivity

Painfully slow!

Just like Tajikistan, Uzbekistan has one of the slowest internet services in the world, according to Cable.co.uk, who rank 210 countries and territories in terms of internet download speeds. From their website you can download the complete excel table which places Uzbekistan in position #182 of 210, with an average download speed of 1.37 mbps.

Uzbek Telecom are the monopoly operator, who control internet speeds through their packet switching centre in Tashkent, although their monopoly status is due to end at the beginning of 2020 which should lead to faster and cheaper internet.

The only decent internet I found in all of Uzbekistan was at the Radisson Blu hotel in Tashkent. Elsewhere, while Wi-Fi is offered, it rarely works and, when it does, it’s so slow that it’s useless. If you need a decent connection, its best to stay at the Radisson Blu.

Politics

This statue of Islam Karimov in Samarkand bears a striking resemblance to Lenin statues found elsewhere in the region.

This statue of Islam Karimov in Samarkand bears a striking resemblance to Lenin statues found elsewhere in the region.

Like Russia and the neighbouring republics of Central Asia, not much has changed – in terms of politics – since the collapse of the Soviet Union. With the exception of sporadic liberalisation, all opposition movements and independent media are essentially banned in Uzbekistan. No one discusses politics and visitors are encouraged not to initiate any political discussions.

Just as Putin has ruled over Russia for an in inordinately long period of time, so too did Islam Karimov, who was president of Uzbekistan from the moment the country declared independence in 1991 until his death in September of 2016.

Karimov was born in Samarkand, where today, a large bronze statue of him has been installed in the park adjacent to the Registan. Wearing a knee-length coat, which is fluttering in the breeze, it bears a striking resemblance to Lenin statues from the soviet-era, in which Lenin was often depicted wearing similar attire. The statue of Lenin in Osh, Kyrgyzstan provides a good comparison. What do they say about the apple not falling far from the tree?

A larger-than-life statue of Lenin towers over Lenin Avenue in Osh.

A larger-than-life statue of Lenin towers over Lenin Avenue in Osh.

Like its neighbours, Uzbekistan’s ‘democracy’ is a façade, hiding an autocratic regime. Karimov won the country’s first democratic election in 1991 with 86% of the vote, in an election in which outside observers noted a large number of voting irregularities.

Karimov then had his first term extended until 2000, through a parliamentary rubber-stamping process. He was then re-election in 2000, 2007 and 2015, each time receiving over 90% of the vote! Amazing really!

Since the death of Karimov, Uzbekistan has been ruled by Shavkat Mirziyoyev, who won his first election in 2016 in a landslide victory with 89% of the vote! The election was described by The Economist as a complete sham.

Laundry Service

The curse of all modern travellers is dirty laundry! At some stage, even a busy nomad needs to take timeout from exploring the world to do laundry.

Unless you use a hostel, or and expensive hotel laundry service, it is a challenge to find a laundromat in Tashkent. While there are plenty of dry-cleaners, who charge a small fortune per item, there are no laundromats.

The only place I found in Tashkent, which offers a ‘wash and dry’ service, was the friendly Art Hostel, who charge 15,000 som (US$1.65) per 5 kilos with a 24 hour service.

Sightseeing

The Kalyan Mosque and Minaret in Bukhara.

The Kalyan Mosque and Minaret in Bukhara.

Tashkent

Despite being the capital of Uzbekistan, Tashkent has a distinctly Russian look and feel to it. This is due to the fact that the city is home to a large number of Russian migrants, who were forcibly relocated here during the Stalin years, and also that the city was largely destroyed by an earthquake in 1966 and then rebuilt by Soviet workers using blue-prints from Russia.

Today, Tashkent is a city of wide boulevards, lined with Soviet-era eyesores. Much of the signage is in Russian, restaurant menus are in Russian and few people speak anything other than Russian or Uzbek.

While not the most charming city in the world, Tashkent is a fascinating jumble of contradictions, with a few sights, some great restaurants, bars and cafes and the best selection of accommodation in the country. I spent five days exploring the capital and could have stayed longer.

Museum of Applied Art

An exquisite example of 'Ghanch', an architectural-decorative form of artwork, at the Museum of Applied Art in Tashkent.

An exquisite example of ‘Ghanch’, an architectural-decorative form of artwork, at the Museum of Applied Art in Tashkent.

Hidden away in a suburban backstreet, The Museum of Applied Arts occupies a beautiful house which was built in the 1930’s (during the Soviet era) and today houses exhibits which showcase different textiles and ceramics from Uzbekistan.

A highlight of the museum is the highly ornate Ghanch, which is an architectural-decorative form of artwork which uses plaster, wood, stone and ceramics and is often painted in bright colourful designs.

Access: The museum is open every day from 09:00 to 18:00. Entrance tickets cost 10,000 som.

Amir Timur Museum

The Amir Timur Museum in Tashkent.

The Amir Timur Museum in Tashkent.

This is an interesting museum for several reasons. Opened in 2006, the Amir Timur Museum is one of the newest museums in Tashkent. It was established to commemorate the 660th birthday of Amir Timur.

Until the 1920’s, Uzbekistan as a nation, did not exist – it was a Soviet creation. Following the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, and subsequent independence for Uzbekistan, the then president, Karimov, wanted to create something that would help unify the diverse population. The new Uzbek state looked to its past for unifying national figures, in order to encourage a cohesive Uzbek identity. In terms of myths and national heroes, they don’t come any bigger than Amir Timur.

Amir Timur (known also as ‘Tamerlane’) was a fourteenth-century conqueror of Western, South and Central Asia. The centre of his huge empire was the city of Samarkand, which is also the sight today of his mausoleum. Under Timur, the area occupied by modern day Uzbekistan flourished.

Having found his ‘unifier’, the president, who use to compare his own leadership style to that of Timur, ordered the museum to be built. The unfortunate fact, as explained on the first information board inside the museum, is that most artefacts from this great period of history, have long been removed from Uzbekistan and are now housed in the collections of museums around the world.

Displays are arranged on two floors and comprise mostly modern replicas, recent paintings of family members, models of buildings, temples etc. The aim of the museum is to reinforce the national identity of the Uzbek people rather than to be historically accurate. This it achieves!

A statue of Amir Timur which is located in the park opposite the museum.

A statue of Amir Timur which is located in the park opposite the museum.

Across the road from the museum, is a park dedicated to Amir Timur, which features an equestrian statue of him at its core.

Samarkand

A Soviet-era mural in Samarkand.

A Soviet-era mural in Samarkand.

During its long history, the city has been invaded by all the great invaders, from Alexander the Great, who invaded in 329 B.C., to a succession of Iranian and Turkic rulers and eventually Genghis Kahn, who conquered the city in 1220.

Registan

The Registan and its three madrasahs. From left to right: Ulugh Beg Madrasah, Tilya-Kori Madrasah and Sher-Dor Madrasah.

The Registan and its three madrasahs. From left to right: Ulugh Beg Madrasah, Tilya-Kori Madrasah and Sher-Dor Madrasah.

The Registan is regarded as the single most impressive sight in all of Central Asia and, after making several visits, and spending many hours appreciating the spectacular majolica tiled Madrasahs, the incredible mosaics, and the symmetry of the complex, it’s easy to agree with this assessment.

The striking entrance to the Ulugh Beg Madrasah at the Registan.

The striking entrance to the Ulugh Beg Madrasah at the Registan.

The Registan is comprised of three very different Madrasahs, the Ulugh Beg Madrasah, Tilya-Kori Madrasah and Sher-Dor Madrasah, all of which front onto a central square in perfectly symmetry. If you have the time, it’s worth visiting the Registan at different times throughout the day to appreciate how the changing sunlight alters the mood of the complex. The most magical time to visit is at dusk.

The interior courtyard of the Ulugh Beg Madrasah.

The interior courtyard of the Ulugh Beg Madrasah.

The first of the three madrasahs (religious schools) to be built was built by Timur’s grandson, Ulugh Beg, in 1417. He was an astronomer and mathematician who invited scholars to work and teach at Samarkand, making it the intellectual capital of the region. The two other madrasahs were built later but modelled on Ulugh Beg’s work.

The incredibly beautiful interior of the Tilya-Kori Madrasah.

The incredibly beautiful interior of the Tilya-Kori Madrasah.

One of the photographic highlights for me was the interior of the mosque of the Tilya-Kori Madrasah, which is lavishly decorated in gold. The name Tilya-Kori translates as “decorated with gold”. Construction of the madrasah was commenced in 1646 and finished in 1660. For centuries, the mosque of the madrasah served as the principal mosque of Samarkand.

A sneak peak of a dress rehearsal for a concert which was to be performed at the Registan.

A sneak peak of a dress rehearsal for a concert which was to be performed at the Registan.

Access: the entrance to the Registan is not obvious, but can be found at the eastern side of the complex, near to the Ancient Trading Centre.

The ticket office is open from 8 am until 5 pm, with tickets costing 40,000 som for foreigners. As for after-hours access, you should negotiate directly with the friendly guards, who are always interested in supplementing their meagre incomes!

Gur-e-Amir

The fluted dome is a unique feature of the Gur-e-Amir.

The fluted dome is a unique feature of the Gur-e-Amir.

The Gur-e-Amir is a mausoleum which serves as the final resting place for members of Timur’s family. Interred in the mausoleum is Timur, his sons Shah Rukh and Miran Shah and grandsons Ulugh Beg and Muhammad Sultan. Also honoured with a place in the tomb is Timur’s teacher Sayyid Baraka.

Timur is buried beneath a solid block of dark green jade. He is flanked by his sons and grandsons.

Timur is buried beneath a solid block of dark green jade. He is flanked by his sons and grandsons.

The tomb of Timur is easily spotted, being a solid block of dark green jade. This precious stone was plundered, from the palace of the Chinese emperor, during a raid in China.

Shah-i-Zinda

Located in Samarkand, Shah-i-Zinda consists of an avenue of exquisitely tiled mausoleums.

Located in Samarkand, Shah-i-Zinda consists of an avenue of exquisitely tiled mausoleums.

While the Gur-e-Amir serves as the resting place for Timur and his nearest and dearest, Shah-i-Zinda consists of an avenue of exquisitely tiled mausoleums which serve as the final resting place for many noble people, including a cousin of the Prophet Mohammed.

The complex is a necropolis which has existed for more than 1,000 years. Over the centuries, different mausoleums have been added, resulting in a fascinating cross-reference of various architectural styles, methods, and decorative craftsmanship as they have changed throughout a millennium of work.

Bukhara

The Nadir Divan-Beghi Madrasah in Bukhara was originally intended to be a caravanserai but was instead inaugurated as a madrasah.

The Nadir Divan-Beghi Madrasah in Bukhara was originally intended to be a caravanserai but was instead inaugurated as a madrasah.

Like Khiva, Bukhara is a city with a long history, and has benefited from its role as the capital of a successful Khanate – the Khanate of Bukhara, which existed from the 16th to the 19th century.

In the ultimate version of ‘keeping up with the Joneses‘, the Khans of Bukhara and Khiva kept a close eye on construction projects in their rival cities and then initiated projects to out-do the other. It was because of this intense rivalry that so many spectacular monuments and buildings were constructed in those cities, and it’s those monuments today that attract so many visitors. You’ll need at least two days to see the main sights of Bukhara.

Kalyan Minaret & Mosque

The Kalyan minaret and mosque lie at the heart of Bukhara old town.

The Kalyan minaret and mosque lie at the heart of Bukhara old town.

When the Kalyan (Great) minaret was built in 1127 AD, it was probably the tallest building in Central Asia. The iconic minaret, which was designated to summon Muslims to prayer at the adjacent Kalyan mosque, dominates the skyline of Bukhara. One hundred years after its construction, Genghis Khan sacked the city, but was so impressed by the minaret that he ordered his men to spare it.

The minaret is also known as the Tower of Death, because until as recently as the early twentieth century criminals were executed by being thrown from the top.

Constructed in the fifteenth century, the Kalyan mosque is built around a rectangular courtyard.

Constructed in the fifteenth century, the Kalyan mosque is built around a rectangular courtyard.

The adjacent Kalyan mosque is a relaxing place to spend time soaking up the history of Bukhara. Entrance tickets are valid for 48 hours, which is a good thing, as repeat visits to the mosque, at different times, provide different photographic opportunities as the sun moves over the complex.

The blue-tiled dome of the Kalyan mosque.

The blue-tiled dome of the Kalyan mosque.

Miri-Arab Madrasah

The incredibly ornate entrance to the Miri-Arab Madrasah, Bukhara.

The incredibly ornate entrance to the Miri-Arab Madrasah, Bukhara.

Opposite the Kalyan mosque and minaret, the Miri-Arab Madrasah forms the ensemble that is Poi-Kalyan, the spiritual centre of this holiest of cities.

The madrasah has 114 student cells, which corresponds to the number Surahs (chapters) in the Quran. The madrasah is home to approximately 125 resident students, who study a four-year course of Arabic, theology and the Koran. Thus the Madrassah is closed to tourists, who have to content themselves with stealing glimpses through the entrance grill.

There's no shortage of incredible architecture and design in Bukhara.

There’s no shortage of incredible architecture and design in Bukhara.

Metal Working

A traditional blacksmith workshop at the Chasing Metal Museum in Bukhara old town.

A traditional blacksmith workshop at the Chasing Metal Museum in Bukhara old town.

Bukhara is famous as a centre for metal working, with traditional blacksmiths producing incredible wares using techniques which haven’t changed in centuries.

A good place to gain an understanding of this craft is at the Chasing Metal Museum which is housed inside a working Blacksmith shop which is located opposite the Bozori Kord bathhouse.

Bukhara is famous for its handmade 'Stork scissors'.

Bukhara is famous for its handmade ‘Stork scissors’.

One popular souvenir of Bukhara are beautiful hand-crafted scissors, which are in the shape of a stork (a symbol of the city). The scissors come in different sizes. I purchased the pair photographed below for US$10.

A pair of Stork scissors which I purchased, a beautiful and practical souvenir of Bukhara.

A pair of Stork scissors which I purchased, a beautiful and practical souvenir of Bukhara.

Bozori Kord Bathhouse

The main chamber at the ancient Bozori Kord bathhouse in Bukhara old town, where one can pay to be massaged (pounded!) and scrubbed on a hard marble slab.

The main chamber at the ancient Bozori Kord bathhouse in Bukhara old town, where one can pay to be massaged (pounded!) and scrubbed on a hard marble slab.

Bukhara is home to several bathhouses (hammam) which are an ideal way to relax after a hard day of exploring the sights. I took a bath at the centuries-old Bozori Kord Hammam which is located in the old town. The bathhouse consists of one room which is open to male and female bathers at different times.

The bathing process involves stripping down, then relaxing for some time in a sauna room. Once your pores are open, you’ll be led to a marble slab which lies in the middle of the central chamber. There, you’ll be scrubbed with a loofah, then massaged aggressively! My body was bent in ways I didn’t know it could bend. It’s like a forced yoga workout.

After the massage, you’re rubbed down with a ginger/ honey powder mix then led to another sauna room where you lay on a hot marble slab. The ginger mix creates a burning sensation which apparently has a detox effect on your body. The total treatment time for me was 2 hours.

A scrub with a massage costs 150,000 som (USD$16). 

Khiva

The old town of Khiva is brimming with souvenir shops selling colourful 'Khiva' mementos.

The old town of Khiva is brimming with souvenir shops selling colourful ‘Khiva’ mementos.

Of all the Silk Road destinations in Uzbekistan, Khiva is my favourite. There’s something magical in the air of this exotic, ancient city, which is located 450 km north-west of Bukhara in the middle of the huge Kyzylkum desert.

According to archaeologists, Khiva was founded in the 4th century BC. According to legend, it was founded by a son of Noah, Shem, when he dug a well in the middle of the desert and found the sweetest of waters. Khiva flourished as the capital of the Khiva Khanate, which existed from 1511 to 1920. The Khanate was ruled by the Khans of Khiva who were patrilineal descendants of Shayban, a grandson of Genghis Khan.

Once synonymous with the slave trade and barbarism, Khiva, is today a living museum, a UNESCO World Heritage site which attracts hordes of tourists, most of which are on group tours.

The city is divided into two parts, the walled old town, known as the Ichan-Kala, and the outer new town, known as the Dishan-Kala. Almost all sites are located inside the walls of the old town along hotels, restaurants, shops and money changers. As such, there’s little reason for visitors to leave the confines of the city walls.

A carpet weaving co-op in Khiva old town.

A carpet weaving co-op in Khiva old town.

In order to access the old town and visit the various sights, visitors are required to purchase a ticket from the ticket office which is located outside the western gate (near to the Kalta-minor minaret). The cheapest ticket costs 50,000 som, which grants access to the old town, and most sights, for a period of 48 hours.

If you’d rather not spend 50,000 som on a ticket, you are able to explore the old town for free. While the west and east gates of the old town have electronic barriers, which require you to scan your ticket to gain access, you can enter the old town, for free, in many other places.

Kalta-Minor Minaret

Originally planned to be three times its current height, the stunning Kalta-minor Minaret is one of the main sights of Khiva.

Originally planned to be three times its current height, the stunning Kalta-minor Minaret is one of the main sights of Khiva.

If there’s one defining, iconic symbol of Khiva, then it must be the stunningly beautiful Kalta-minor minaret. Construction on the minaret commenced in 1852, when the then ruler of Khiva, Muhammad Amin Khan, wanted to build the tallest and most beautiful minaret in Central Asia. Khiva was always in competition with Bukhara which already had its own beautiful minaret.

The old town of Khiva is full of blue-tiled mosques and minarets, all of which contrast nicely with the earth-coloured mud walls.

The old town of Khiva is full of blue-tiled mosques and minarets, all of which contrast nicely with the earth-coloured mud walls.

Construction came to an abrupt end 3 years later after Muhammad Amin Khan was killed. At the time the minaret was only 26 metres high, just a third of its intended height. It was never finished and ironically it is now called the Kalta-minor minaret or short minaret.

The adjacent Madrasah of Muhammad Amin Khan was once one of the finest educational institutions in Khiva, but today serves as the Orient Star hotel, one of the poshest hotels in town.

Islam Khoja Minaret & Madrasah

Attached to its namesake Madrasah, the Islam Khoja Minaret in Khiva is the tallest minaret in Uzbekistan.

Attached to its namesake Madrasah, the Islam Khoja Minaret in Khiva is the tallest minaret in Uzbekistan.

At 57 metres high, The Islam Khoja minaret is the highest structure in Khiva and the tallest minaret in Uzbekistan. The slim minaret, which features bands of blue mosaic tiles, dominates the old town.

Tile-work on the Islam Khoja Madrasah.

Tile-work on the Islam Khoja Madrasah.

A gallery at the top of the minaret offers the best views of the old town. Those who wish to take in the panoramic views first need to undertake a sweaty climb of 175 steep, narrow, dark steps. It’s a spiral staircase workout! Each step is knee-height which means you haul yourself up the tower and gently lower yourself back down. The only problem is – there are no safety railings, ropes or any other aids.

The views from the top are worth the climb. In former times, such minarets served as a means of capital punishment with the condemned being thrown from the top of the tower.

If you wish to make the climb, a separate entrance fee of 15,000 som is payable at the ticket office at the base of the minaret.

Detail of the tiled roof of the Islam Khoja Madrasah in Khiva.

Detail of the tiled roof of the Islam Khoja Madrasah in Khiva.

Adjacent to the minaret is the Islam Khoja Madrasah which now serves as one of the many museums in the old town

Kunya Ark Citadel

The entrance to the Kunya Ark citadel with the small jail house museum to the left.

The entrance to the Kunya Ark citadel with the small jail house museum to the left.

Kunya Ark, which means “Old castle” was a citadel which served as a residence for the Khans of Khiva. Construction on the citadel started in 1686 and lasted more than 20 years. Like the Forbidden City in Beijing, the Kunya Ark was a city within a city, separated from the Ichan-Kala by a high wall and housing various rooms for the Khan, his family and dignitaries.

Detail of the minaret at the Kunya Ark citadel in Khiva.

Detail of the minaret at the Kunya Ark citadel in Khiva.

From The Kunya Ark, the Khans meted out swift justice. Prisoners were kept in the small jail house, which is situated to the left of the entrance gate, to await their fate.

A painting showing a form of torture for woman in medieval Khiva.

A painting showing a form of torture for woman in medieval Khiva.

Today, this building serves as an interesting museum which features graphic illustrations of various methods of capital punishment such as “Stoning”, “Burying Alive”, “Throwing Off Minaret” and “Woman Punishment”.

Tosh-Hovli Palace

One of the ornate, columned, “aivans” (terraces) at the Tosh Hawli Palace in Khiva.

One of the ornate, columned, “avian” (terraces) at the Tosh Hawli Palace in Khiva.

The very ornate Tosh Hovli palace provides yet another example of blue tiles arranged in spectacular designs. The palace was constructed between 1830 and 1838, and served as the summer residence for the Khiva Khans, housing a Harem, reception and banquet halls and a court room.

A wooden door at the Tosh Hawli palace in Khiva.

A wooden door at the Tosh Hawli palace in Khiva.

The palace features typical elements of Khiva architectural design – enclosed courtyards, shady two-column aivans (terraces) and balconies.

Juma Mosque and Minaret

Just some of the 218 wooden columns which support the wooden roof of the Juma Mosque in Khiva.

Just some of the 218 wooden columns which support the wooden roof of the Juma Mosque in Khiva.

Possibly the most unique mosque in Uzbekistan, and maybe in the entire world, the very peculiar Juma mosque is one of the oldest mosques in Khiva. The main chamber has more than 200 hand-carved, wooden columns, some dating to the tenth century, all of which are supported by stone bases. The columns support an entirely enclosed, wooden roof.

A small garden in the middle of the mosque is open to the elements, allowing some sunlight to enter the darkened space.

Easily distinguished by its turquoise-tile bands, the Juma Mosque minaret lies at the heart of Khiva old town.

Easily distinguished by its turquoise-tile bands, the Juma Mosque minaret lies at the heart of Khiva old town.

If you have purchased the deluxe all-inclusive ticket, you will be able to access the Juma minaret where 82 dark and narrow steps lead to a viewing gallery at the top of the 47-metre-high minaret.

Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum

The blue-tiled dome of the Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum is the largest in Khiva.

The blue-tiled dome (the largest in Khiva) of the Pahlavon Mahmud mausoleum is another dominate feature of the old town. The building houses the tomb of Pahlavon Mahmud, who was a lot of things from poet, doctor, philosopher to wrestler.

People believe he had mystical, herculean, powers and defended the poor. Pahlavon Mahmud is considered a saint and his mausoleum is a pilgrimage spot for people from all over Uzbekistan. Due to its popularity, the city charges a separate entrance fee to enter the sight.

The resplendent tomb of Pahlavan Mahmud and the intricate wooden parquet floor of the mausoleum.

The resplendent tomb of Pahlavan Mahmud and the intricate wooden parquet floor of the mausoleum.

For local visitors, the mausoleum is the #1 attraction in Khiva and is an active place of worship for them. A resident Imam recites verses from the Quran as people sit in silence and pray. It’s a very relaxing space and the recitations can be emotional and hypnotic. A truly mesmerising experience!

One feature which I found to be very striking were the intricate, wooden, parquet floors.

Nurullaboy Saroyi

The main palace building at Nurullaboy Saroyi.

The main palace building at Nurullaboy Saroyi.

If there’s one reason to leave the confines of the old town then it must be to visit the wonderful Nurullaboy Saroyi. As the Ichan Kala (Old Town) became crowded with madrasahs, palaces and other buildings, the Khiva Khans had to look outside the city walls to find enough space to build their next palace.

Located just 200 metres from the city walls, the Nurullaboy Saroyi is a beautiful, relaxing space which is off the tourist radar. At the time of my visit, I had the whole place to myself. Initially, I was shocked when I was asked to pay 50,000 som for an entrance ticket. “Was this not included in the old town combo-ticket?” I asked. No! But in the end, I was happy I paid.

Detail of the ornate palace awning at Nurullaboy Saroyi.

Detail of the ornate palace awning at Nurullaboy Saroyi.

The first building in the complex is a fully renovated palace. When I visited, there was no one in attendance, so I opened the door, entered and walked around. I had the palace to myself. The ceiling and walls of each room are highly decorated.

The ornate ceiling of the palace at Nurullaboy Saroyi in Khiva.

The ornate ceiling of the palace at Nurullaboy Saroyi in Khiva.

Beyond the palace is a larger, walled, compound which is home to dozens of rooms, all of which are fully renovated and contain displays on everything to do with Khiva culture, history and society. The displays are far superior to anything in the old town. It was here that I could gain an appreciation for the intricacies of local crafts such as carpet-weaving, metal-working, wood-work, ceramics, textiles and more.

Uzbekistan Travel Guide: The carpet gallery at the Nurullaboy Saroyi museum.

The carpet gallery at the Nurullaboy Saroyi museum.

Other rooms featured local contemporary art, classical art and photography. I ended up spending much more time here than at any place I visited in the old town. I would highly recommend a visit to Nurullaboy Saroyi.

Uzbek carpets are characterised by a field of red-brown tint, which is populated by brightly coloured medallions, which usually appear in geometrical shapes.

Uzbek carpets are characterised by a field of red-brown tint, which is populated by brightly coloured medallions, which usually appear in geometrical shapes.

There’s a gift shop, which includes the finest selection of Khiva ceramic tiles that depict the Zoroastrian symbol of “ease”. These tiles can be found embedded in the walls of every building in the old town of Khiva.

My Khiva 'Cross' tile which I purchased at Nurullaboy Saroyi which depicts the Zoroastrian symbol of "ease".

My Khiva ‘Cross’ tile which I purchased at Nurullaboy Saroyi which depicts the Zoroastrian symbol of “ease”.

Accommodation

With tourism established longer in Uzbekistan than in any other country in the region, there’s no shortage of accommodation options throughout the country.

Accommodation Registration

Some of my Hotel Registration receipts, which must retained until you have exited Uzbekistan.

Some of my Hotel Registration receipts, which must retained until you have exited Uzbekistan.

Uzbekistan is a land of strange, quirky systems, and they don’t come any stranger than the small slips of paper which are handed to you by your hotel at the time of check-out. Often on a simple post-it note, this are your all-important hotel registration receipt, and needs to retained until you have exited the country.

Under the current law, all foreigners visiting Uzbekistan on a temporary basis must submit their passport for registration at their place of residence within 72 hours. If staying in a hotel or guest house, they will take care of this process for you. Every place you stay will register you and issue you with a registration receipt at the time of check-out.

It’s essential you keep the receipts in case you are asked to provide evidence of registration. I was never asked to show these when exiting the country, but you need to hold on to them just in case!

If you’re staying in a flat or private house, then you should register yourself through the local Department of Registration, which is known as OVIR.

Tashkent

During Soviet times, each capital had its own behemoth hotel which was named after the republic. The Hotel Uzbekistan once served as the main hotel in Tashkent for visitors travelling with Intourist.

During Soviet times, each capital had its own behemoth hotel which was named after the republic. The Hotel Uzbekistan once served as the main hotel in Tashkent for visitors travelling with In-tourist.

I skipped the Hotel Uzbekistan as the old Soviet relics really are relics in every sense. I instead chose to stay at the modern and comfortable Tashkent Radisson Blu hotel which was an excellent choice for many reasons.

My comfortable room at the Tashkent Radisson Blu hotel.

My comfortable room at the Tashkent Radisson Blu hotel.

From the spacious rooms, fast internet (the fastest I experienced in Uzbekistan), friendly, professional staff, excellent buffet breakfast featuring lots of local produce, amazing swimming pool, onsite Asaka bank branch (which offers money change facilities at all hours) and an Asaka bank ATM which accepts MasterCard / Visa card to its central location, a short stroll from numerous bars, cafes, restaurants and close proximity to the Metro.

There is no other place to stay while in Tashkent!

The swimming pool, at the Radisson Blu hotel in Tashkent, is the perfect place to relax after a day of exploring the capital.

The swimming pool, at the Radisson Blu hotel in Tashkent, is the perfect place to relax after a day of exploring the capital.

Samarkand

My spacious suite at the Hotel Bek in Samarkand.

My spacious suite at the Hotel Bek in Samarkand.

While in Samarkand, I stayed at the Hotel BEK, which was comfortable but not somewhere I would recommend staying. Reviews on TripAdvisor (click on link) are mostly negative and reflect the fact that the hotel is poorly maintained and poorly managed.

The one lift has been out of service for about 12 months and management have made no attempt to get it repaired. In fact, a gift shop has been installed in front of the lift doors in the lobby. As a result, all guests have to walk up and down the multiple flights of stairs, which is not ideal for old people or anyone who has mobility issues. I had a suite on level 4 which was comfortable and spacious.

There are plenty of other options in Samarkand with lots of hostels catering to the hordes of backpackers which descend on this fabled Silk Road city.

Bukhara

A view of the upper floor of the Hotel Old Bukhara.

A view of the upper floor of the Hotel Old Bukhara.

Travellers to Bukhara are spoilt for choice with a vast array of excellent, good value, options available throughout the charming old town.

I stayed at the excellent Hotel Old Bukhara which is located a short two minute walk from the iconic Kalyan Minaret and most other attractions. The hotel is located on a quiet lane-way and is built around a central courtyard with rooms on two floors.

The most beautiful breakfast table at the Hotel Old Bukhara.

The most beautiful breakfast table at the Hotel Old Bukhara.

The leafy, relaxing courtyard serves as the setting for an amazing breakfast each morning, with features a selection of local produce served on locally made ceramic ware.

The owners of the hotel are a young, enthusiastic local couple who speak excellent English and do everything to ensure your stay is pleasant.

Khiva

My room at the Hotel EuroAsia in Khiva.

My room at the Hotel EuroAsia in Khiva.

As with elsewhere in Uzbekistan, Khiva offers plenty of accommodation options, especially in the old town.

I stayed at the Hotel EuroAsia which is a small hotel with spotlessly clean rooms arranged on two floors. The hotel is especially popular with visiting European tour groups (it was full most nights with me being the sole independent traveller) and is a short walk from all the main sights.

Eating Out

The cuisine of Uzbekistan is very similar to the cuisine of the other Central Asian republics, with restaurant menus featuring steamed dumplings (known throughout the region as ‘Manti‘), noodle soup (known everywhere as ‘Lagman‘), Plov (a Central Asian version of Pilau rice), barbecued meats (Shashlik), salads which are based on tomato and cucumber – all of which are served with a basket of bread.

Bread

Dating from the days of the Silk Road, 'Khiva bread' is always rolled flat and stamped before being baked in a clay oven.

Dating from the days of the Silk Road, ‘Khiva bread’ is always rolled flat and stamped before being baked in a clay oven.

Bread in Uzbekistan is an integral part of the culture, with each region producing its own type, all of which are divine. With every meal, a basket of bread will be served often fresh from the tandyr (clay oven). Known in Uzbekistan as non or lepeshka, bread is generally round and flat and is baked in a clay oven. Samarkand is especially known for its bread while Bukhara and Khiva have their own unique styles of bread.

Bread in Khiva being baked in a clay oven.

Bread in Khiva being baked in a clay oven.

Throughout the old towns of Uzbekistan, bakers can be observed baking bread using the same techniques and equipment which has been used for centuries. These photos were taken in the old town of Khiva where two girls work constantly, baking bread in a clay oven, for nearby restaurants and local residents.

The bread is slapped to the sides of the clay oven where it remains until its golden brown and toasty.

The bread is slapped to the sides of the clay oven where it remains until its golden brown and toasty.

Restaurants

With so many tourists visiting Uzbekistan, you can be sure of a good selection of dining options.

Tashkent

Being a very Russian city, most restaurants in Tashkent only offer menus in Russian and most staff do not speak English. Google translate is helpful in this town! In terms of variety, Tashkent is the only place in the country where you can take a break from ‘national’ food.

International Fast food chains have a limited presence in Uzbekistan with no McDonald’s or Burger King, although this is due to change. KFC and Wendy’s have branches in Tashkent, however the best hamburger in town is served at the Radisson Blu Hotel.

A good selection of restaurants can be found along Amir Temur Avenue around metro stop Minor, including Italian (Giotto and the local Illy cafe – Caffee’issimo), both of which serve most Italian favourites plus gelato, waffles and coffee.

For something different, Pudding (located at Minor metro) offers Afghan cuisine while other nearby restaurants offer Chinese and Pakistani cuisine. Nice to take a break from all the ‘national’ cuisine.

Samarkand

There are many fine restaurants in Samarkand, with one of my favourites being Platan which is housed in the hotel of the same name at #2 Pushkin street, just around the corner from the El-Merosi cafe (see the ‘Cafe‘ section below). The menu features the typical line up of ‘national’ cuisine with some good vegetarian options.

Bukhara

A delicious dinner at Restaurant ''Old Bukhara" - shashlik, Greek salad and fresh Bukhara bread.

A delicious dinner at Restaurant ”Old Bukhara” – shashlik, Greek salad and fresh Bukhara bread.

Of the different types of bread served throughout Uzbekistan, my favourite is the bread from Bukhara. While the bread in Khiva is flat and firm, Bukhara bread is softer and fluffier.

In Bukhara, one of my favourite places to eat was Restaurant ”Old Bukhara” which is easy to find in the old town (where everything else is located). The best feature of this restaurant is the popular rooftop terrace which offers amazing views of the sun setting over the old town.

Once again, the menu is all about ‘national’ food with lots of BBQ meat, salads, bread, dumplings and more. The freshly made Dolma (young, rolled grape leaves stuffed with a meat and rice mix) are a house special and definitely worth trying.

Khiva

A view of the popular Restaurant Terrassa in Khiva, a wonderful place to sample local cuisine.

A view of the popular Restaurant Terrassa in Khiva, a wonderful place to sample local cuisine.

Located in the heart of the old town of Khiva, the ever-popular Restaurant Terrassa serves a selection of ‘national’ food with Shashlik and dumplings being the house specials. The rooftop terrace offers unparalleled overs over the old town and is a magnet for tourists during sunset.

Cafés

Throughout Central Asia, the word café (кафе in Russian) is used to describe a cafeteria, i.e. a place where you go to dine. Normally such places serve juices, tea and maybe instant coffee but you’ll never find cappuccino or lattes being served at such places. To differentiate themselves, those places serving real coffee call themselves ‘coffee houses‘.

Tashkent

The newly opened Café Paul in Tashkent.

The newly opened Café Paul in Tashkent.

While I was in Tashkent, my favourite French patisserie chain, Paul, opened their first Uzbekistan branch at #60 Amir Temur Avenue (nearest metro stop – Minor). The cafe offers the usual menu of international dishes, fine French pastries and excellent coffee.

Both Giotto and Caffee’issimo (located a few blocks north of Paul on the same avenue) are also worth a visit.

Samarkand

The cosy interior of Cafe El-Merosi in Samarkand.

The cosy interior of Cafe El-Merosi in Samarkand.

For a city that attracts so many tourists, Samarkand offers surprisingly few cafes. One of the better ones is Coffee House El-Merosi which is part of the El-Merosi theatre.

Bukhara

One popular cafe in Bukhara is Cafe Wishbone, a German-owned establishment which is centrally located in the heart of the old town. Housed inside a grand 16th-century building, the cafe offers good coffee, lecker sandwiches and divine apple strudel.

Khiva

The cafe scene in Khiva is non-existent with nowhere offering decent coffee. A couple of restaurants in the old town (Terrassa & Cafe Zarafshon) offer passable coffee.

Bars

Sarbast is the local brew of choice, an easy-on-the palette lager beer.

Sarbast is the local brew of choice, an easy-on-the palette lager beer.

Tashkent

My favourite bar in Tashkent is the Chester British Pub which is located at 95 Amir Temur Avenue, a short walk from the Radisson Blu hotel. This pub offers outdoor and indoor seating with local craft beers on tap and an international menu which also includes Fish ‘n’ Chips! Blimey!

If you prefer to move on at some stage and sample other options, there are many bars, restaurants and cafes in this neighbourhood.

Elsewhere

While there are plenty of bars in Tashkent, options elsewhere are more limited. This is a predominately Muslim country! However, in most towns, restaurants serve alcohol.

The most popular beer throughout the country is Sarbast which is brewed by Carlsberg.

Visa Requirements

In order to encourage tourism, the Uzbek government has recently relaxed visa requirements and now allows citizens of 65 countries visa-free access.

To check your requirements, refer to the Visa policy of Uzbekistan.

Getting There

An Uzbekistan Airways flight ready to depart from Urgench airport.

An Uzbekistan Airways flight ready to depart from Urgench airport.

Air

There are no less than six international airports in Uzbekistan, which, in order of importance are:

Located 12 km (7.5 mi) from downtown, Tashkent International Airport serves as the base for the national carrier – Uzbekistan Airways. Like train stations, only passengers with a passport and ticket are allowed to enter the grounds of the airport.

The domestic terminal at Tashkent airport.

The domestic terminal at Tashkent airport.

The following airlines provide regularly scheduled flight to/ from Tashkent International airport:

  • Aeroflot – flies to/from Moscow–Sheremetyevo
  • Air Astana – flies to/from Almaty, Nur-Sultan
  • Air Manas – flies to/from Bishkek
  • Asiana Airlines – flies to/from Seoul–Incheon
  • Avia Traffic Company – flies to/from Bishkek
  • Azerbaijan Airlines – flies to/from Baku
  • China Southern Airlines – flies to/from Beijing–Capital, Ürümqi
  • flydubai – flies to/from Dubai–International
  • IrAero – flies to/from Irkutsk
  • Kam Air – flies to/from Kabul
  • Korean Air – flies to/from Seoul–Incheon
  • Rossiya – flies to/from Saint Petersburg
  • S7 Airlines – flies to/from Moscow–Domodedovo, Novosibirsk
  • SCAT Airlines – flies to/from Almaty
  • Turkish Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul
  • Ural Airlines – flies to/from Chelyabinsk, Krasnodar, Krasnoyarsk–Yemelyanovo, Nizhniy Novgorod, Rostov-on-Don, Samara, Sochi, Volgograd, Yekaterinburg
  • Utair – flies to/from Moscow–Vnukovo
  • Uzbekistan Airways – flies to/from Almaty, Amritsar, Andizhan, Baku, Bangkok–Suvarnabhumi, Beijing–Capital, Bishkek, Bukhara, Delhi, Dubai–International, Dushanbe, Fergana, Frankfurt, Irkutsk, Istanbul, Jakarta-Soekarno-Hatta, Jeddah, Kaliningrad, Karshi, Kazan, Khabarovsk, Krasnodar, Krasnoyarsk–Yemelyanovo, Kuala Lumpur–International, Lahore, London–Heathrow, Milan–Malpensa, Mineralnye Vody, Minsk, Moscow-Vnukovo, Mumbai, Namangan, Navoi, New York–JFK, Nizhnevartovsk, Novosibirsk, Nukus, Nur-Sultan, Paris–Charles de Gaulle, Riga, Rome–Fiumicino, Rostov-on-Don, Saint Petersburg, Samara, Samarkand, Seoul–Incheon, Sharjah, Sochi, Tbilisi, Tel Aviv, Termez, Tokyo–Narita, Tyumen, Ufa, Urgench, Ürümqi, Vladivostok, Voronezh, Yekaterinburg, Zarafshan
  • Yakutia Airlines – flies to/from Irkutsk
An Uzbekistan Airways boarding pass.

An Uzbekistan Airways boarding pass.

Airport Transport

The best means of transport between Tashkent airport and the city centre is a Yandex Taxi, which should cost between 20,000 – 30,000 som, depending on where you are heading.

Alternatively, bus #40 passes by the front of the terminal, on its way to the Central train station, which is a 15-minute ride and costs 1,200 som (payable on-board).

Land

Political map of Uzbekistan. Source: https://www.nationsonline.org

Political map of Uzbekistan.
Source: https://www.nationsonline.org

Land-locked Uzbekistan shares land borders with Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and Afghanistan.

  • Kazakhstan: situated to the north of Uzbekistan, shares a land border of 2,203 km (1,369 mi) which includes four international crossings.
  • Turkmenistan: situated to the south of Uzbekistan, shares a land border of 1,620 km (1,007 mi) which includes three international crossings.
  • Kyrgyzstan: situated to the east of Uzbekistan, shares a land border of 1,314 km (816 mi) with three international crossing points.
  • Tajikistan: also situated to the east of Uzbekistan, shares a land border of 1,312 km (815 m) which includes five international crossing points.
  • Afghanistan: Situated to the south of Uzbekistan, this is the shortest land border, with a length of just 144 km (90 mi). The border is defined by the course of the Amu Darya River. Due to the threat of terrorism, and the Uzbek governments campaign against Islamic extremists, this border is one of the most heavily fortified in the world, comparable with the border between North and South Korea.

Rail

The Tashkent to Moscow train at Tashkent station.

The Tashkent to Moscow train at Tashkent station.

International trains connect Uzbekistan (Tashkent) with Russia (Moscow and other cities) and Kazakhstan (Almaty) as follows:

  • Almaty: A direct, high-speed, Talgo train runs three times a week (Tuesday, Thursday, Sunday) between Tashkent and Almaty, with a journey time of 16 hours (10 hours faster than the previous train).
  • Moscow: Train number 6 leaves Moscow on Wednesday, Friday and Monday at 11:16 pm, arriving at Tashkent, 66-hours later on Saturday, Tuesday and Thursday at 9 pm.

Getting Around

Rail

The sleek, modern and fast 'Afrosiyob' train stands in stark contrast to the older, slower trains of Uzbekistan Railways.

The sleek, modern and fast ‘Afrosiyob’ train stands in stark contrast to the older, slower trains of Uzbekistan Railways.

Uzbekistan is the easiest country in Central Asia to explore thanks to an excellent rail network which connects all places of interest. Uzbekistan Railways operate the only high-speed trains in Central Asia, which travel at a top speed of 250 km/hr.

The Spanish-built Talgo trains, branded locally as the Afrosiyob, operate 7 days a week, connecting Tashkent with:

  • Samarkand: three trains a day travel between Tashkent and Samarkand (and vice-a-versa), a distance of 344 km, with a travel time of two hours.
  • Bukhara: two trains a day travel between Tashkent and Bukhara (and vice-a-versa), a distance of 600 km, with a journey time of 3 hours and 20 minutes. This train also stops en-route in Samarkand, providing a fast connection between Samarkand and Bukhara.
Like all train stations in Uzbekistan, Samarkand station is kept spotlessly clean, quiet, orderly and relaxed.

Like all train stations in Uzbekistan, Samarkand station is kept spotlessly clean, quiet, orderly and relaxed.

A high-speed line is currently being constructed to link Bukhara to Khiva, which will complete the Silk Road high-speed line. This is due to be completed in 2021. In the meantime, regular trains connect the two cities, covering the 455 km journey in 5.5 hours.

Train timetables, in Russian, are available on the Uzbekistan Railways website. An English version of the schedule is available on the seat61 website.

Booking Tickets

With its comfortable carriages, professional staff and fast connection times, the Afrosiyob is understandable very popular and is normally sold out days in advance. It’s best to purchase tickets as far in advance as possible, although I was once able to book a ticket from Samarkand to Tashkent one day before I travelled.

You can book tickets online from the Uzbekistan Railways website but, while there is an ‘English’ language option, everything reverts to Russian! I found it easiest to go to the station and book a ticket in person. When purchasing a ticket, you will need to provide your passport and payment is to be made in som cash (no credit cards accepted here!).

Travelling

All train stations in Uzbekistan are kept calm and relaxed thanks to the fact that only passengers with tickets are able to enter the station. All stations are surrounded by a security fence, which keeps everyone out, except for passengers who enter through a security gate where they must show their passport and ticket.

Once on the platform, smartly uniformed attendants will guide you to your seat. Easy!

Tashkent Metro

A map of the Tashkent Metro system.

A map of the Tashkent Metro system.

Opened in 1977, the Tashkent Metro is one of just two metro systems in Central Asia, with the other being in Almaty, Kazakhstan. Its stations are among the most ornate in the world, and unlike most ex-Soviet metros, the system is shallow (i.e. no long escalator rides required).

The metro operates on three lines (red, blue and green), with a total of 29 stations, and is the best way to travel around the capital. Like Almaty metro, payment is by way of a token which costs 1,200 som (US$0.15).

Bodomzor metro station lies on the green line.

Bodomzor metro station lies on the green line.

Due to a complete ban on photography, the metro remained a secret for decades. Apart from serving as a metro, the system’s secondary role is as a nuclear bomb shelter, and as such it is considered a military installation.

It was illegal to take pictures inside the metro system, or any of the stations, until 31 May 2018. Since the 1st of June 2018, photography is allowed, and at no stage was I asked to stop photographing. Many of the stations feature amazing artwork.

Uzbekistan Travel Guide: All Tashkent metro stations were built to serve as nuclear bomb shelters and are fitted with bomb-proof doors at all access points.

All Tashkent metro stations were built to serve as nuclear bomb shelters and are fitted with bomb-proof doors at all access points.

The depth of the metro’s underground tunnels varies between 8–25 metres (26–82 ft). The strong construction of these three lines can resist earthquakes of a magnitude of 9.0 on the Richter scale.

A Tashkent metro train operating on the green line.

A Tashkent metro train operating on the green line.

Tashkent Buses

A bus in downtown Tashkent.

A bus in downtown Tashkent.

Frequent, modern and clean public buses connect all points in Tashkent, including the airport (#40), with a single ride ticket costing 1,200 som (US$0.15).

Taxi

Yandex Taxi is an online ride-sharing service which was launched in 2011 and is now present in most of Central Asia, including Tashkent. Unfortunately, Yandex is not active in Bukhara or Khiva, which leaves travellers at the mercy of the (ruthless) taxi drivers.

In 2018, Yandex and Uber merged their operations in the region. The Yandex app can be downloaded onto a smartphone and, in terms of functionality, is very similar to Uber.

Shared Taxi

View of the excellent highway which connects Bukhara to Khiva.

View of the excellent highway which connects Bukhara to Khiva.

Shared taxis provides the fastest transport option between those points not served by the Afrosiyob train.

Thanks to a newly built, concrete, dual-lane highway between Bukhara and Khiva, the 455 km journey takes just five hours with taxis averaging 120 – 140 km/h along most of the route. Taxis carry four passengers and on the Bukhara to Khiva route, charge 100,000 som (USD$10.60) per place.


Video:

I filmed the following video while driving in a shared taxi along the new highway from Bukhara to Khiva.


 

When travelling to any of the borders, shared taxis are the best bet as they travel from border to border, allowing you to cross quickly (by yourself) then connecting with another taxi on the other side. Any crossing done on a bus or train can take hours while you sit around and wait for all passengers to be processed.

Rental Car

An Uzbekistan car license plate.

An Uzbekistan car license plate.

The concept of car rental is almost unknown in Uzbekistan and, with such excellent public transport options, is not really needed. The only international company represented in Tashkent is Sixt. The Radisson Blu hotel in Tashkent can organise car rental, which will include a driver.

Interestingly, the most popular brand of car in Uzbekistan is Chevrolet, which are mass-produced at a GM plant in Asaka. The most popular car colour is white which, I was told, is preferred by most Uzbek drivers as it minimises the effects of summer heat. Due to the demand for white cars, consumers pay more for them than any other colour.

 


That’s the end of my Uzbekistan Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren


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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Central Asia region:

Additional blogs, articles and information on Uzbekistan are available on the Indy Guide website.

Uzbekistan Travel Guide Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide 

Uzbekistan Travel Guide Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide 

Uzbekistan Travel Guide Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide 

Uzbekistan Travel Guide Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide 

Uzbekistan Travel Guide Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide  Uzbekistan Travel Guide