This is a Faroe Islands Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Faroe Islands Travel Guide.
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About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is an Iceland Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Iceland Travel Guide.
All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.
About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is an Isle of Man Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Isle of Man Travel Guide.
All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.
About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
This is a Transnistria Photo Gallery. To read about this destination, please refer to my Transnistria Travel Guide.
All images are copyright! If you wish to purchase any images for commercial use, please contact me via the Contact page.
About taste2travel!
Hi! My name is Darren McLean, the owner of taste2travel. I’ve been travelling the world for 33 years and, 209 countries and territories, and – seven continents later, I’m still on the road.
Taste2travel offers travel information for destinations around the world, specialising in those that are remote and seldom visited. I hope you enjoy my content!
Ever since I was a child, I have been obsessed with the idea of travel. I started planning my first overseas trip at the age of 19 and departed Australia soon after my 20th birthday. Many years later, I’m still on the road.
In 2016, I decided to document and share my journeys and photography with a wider audience and so, taste2travel.com was born.
My aim is to create useful, usable travel guides/ reports on destinations I have visited. My reports are very comprehensive and detailed as I believe more information is better than less. They are best suited to those planning a journey to a particular destination.
Many of the destinations featured on my website are far off the regular beaten tourist trail. Often, these countries are hidden gems which remain undiscovered, mostly because they are remote and difficult to reach. I enjoy exploring and showcasing these ‘off-the-radar’ destinations, which will, hopefully, inspire others to plan their own adventure to a far-flung corner of the planet.
I’m also a fan of travel trivia and if you are too, you’ll find plenty of travel quizzes on the site.
Photography has always been a passion and all the photos appearing in these galleries were taken by me.
If you have any questions or queries, please contact me via the contact page.
Welcome to the taste2travel Transnistria Travel Guide!
Date Visited: September 2019
Introduction
Have you ever wanted to visit a country which doesn’t exist? Quirky and fascinating, the unrecognised, breakaway Republic of Transnistria is a destination that’s stuck in the Soviet past.
This self-declared republic occupies a narrow strip of land on the eastern bank of the Dniester River, although the international community recognise the land as part of the Republic of Moldova. Transnistria has been recognised only by three other, mostly non-recognised, states: Abkhazia, Artsakh, and South Ossetia (see the following section for more on these breakaway states).
A Soviet-era tractor working on the main street of Tiraspol.
The capital, Tiraspol, is full of soviet-era relics; its residents live in drab, soviet-era apartment blocks, Lada’s cruise the streets (although modern SUVs are becoming more popular), well-tended flower beds line the main street, which is named after the Russian revolution of 1917. The town hall is housed inside the ‘House of Soviets’, Lenin statues can be found in a couple of prominent locations while a tank statue serves as a reminder of battles fought. All signage is in Cyrillic, everyone speaks Russian, with almost no one speaking English.
‘I Love Tiraspol’ in Cyrillic.
Transnistria is truly idiosyncratic, a place that has never stopped living the Soviet dream. If it cannot be independent, then it would rather join into a union with Russia. While Moldova sees its future in the west, as part of the Europe Union, Transnistria is looking east to Russia. This breakaway republic is a charming, off-beat, fascinating and engaging destination which should be on anyone’s itinerary.
Soviet symbols can be found everywhere in Transnistria.
Community for Democracy and Rights of Nations
What does a breakaway republic do when the international community refuses to recognise it? It forms an organisation with other (non-recognised) breakaway republics.
The Community for Democracy and Rights of Nations, also commonly known as the Commonwealth of Unrecognised States, is an international organisation uniting four unrecognised states, all of whom were formerly part of the Soviet Union.
The members of the organisation are:
Abkhazia (Administrative centre: Sukhumi)
Artsakh(Administrative centre: Stepanakert)
South Ossetia (Administrative centre: Tskhinvali)
Transnistria (Administrative centre: Tiraspol)
Location
A regional map showing the thin slither of territory which is the breakaway ‘Republic of Transnistria’. Source: Wikipedia
Transnistria is a landlocked state which borders the Republic of Moldova to the west and Ukraine to the east. All of the territory of Transnistria lies to the east of the Dniester river, except for the district of Bender, which lies on the west bank of the river.
Tourism
Tiraspol Tourist Information Centre
The wonderful Tatyana, from the Tiraspol Tourist Information centre, presenting me with a map of the city.
Located at #135 Strada Sovietic, in downtown Tiraspol, the territory’s only Tourist Information Centre is staffed by a small, English-speaking, team of enthusiastic and helpful staff who are keen to promote the attractions of Transnistria. The centre is open every day, from 09:30 to 18:30, except Sundays.
The Tiraspol Tourist Information Centre is located around the corner from the City Hall.
Apart from providing advice, the centre also stocks a good selection of Transnistria souvenirs.
Transnistria magnets on sale at the Tourist Information centre.
Walking Tours
One of Anton’s sketches, which is featured on his Facebook page.
If you wish to discover sights beyond the regular tourist trail, you should join the enthusiastic and energetic Anton Dendemarchenko on one of his free walking tours. Anton, who is a local, English-speaking guide, describes himself as an urban sketcher and sightseeing hunter. He has sketched most of the sights of Tiraspol and sells his work as postcards, which make for great souvenirs.
Most guides working in Transnistria are actually from Chisinau. These guides travel each day from Moldova’s capital, bringing bus-loads of day tripping tourists, returning back to Chisinau in the evening.
Anton however, is a real local and has explored every nook and cranny of Transnistria, which allows him to show visitors the hidden gems of the territory. Apart from being an informative guide, Anton is also very witty and funny!
If you want to do something memorable while in Transnistria, then Anton is your man! You can contact him at:
If you’re currently unable to travel to Transnistria, you can whet your appetite by joining Anton on one of his virtual walking tours which are highly engaging! You can make enquiries and bookings via Anton’s TripAdvisor page.
How Long in Transnistria?
How long should you spend in Transnistria?
Almost all visitors visit Tiraspol and Bender on a day-trip from Chisinau, which is unfortunate as this peculiar breakaway republic is an engaging destination which warrants more than a day-trip (which is more like a half day-trip once you account for travel times from Chisinau).
I stayed for two days and one night in Tiraspol but this also wasn’t enough. If I had my time again, I would stay for three days and two nights – there is quite a bit to see and do.
Anton (mentioned above in ‘Walking Tours‘) can easily fill a full day taking you to some of the lesser-known, off-beat sights which are located outside of Tiraspol. The capital has enough sights to warrant a full day, then there’s Bender, with its amazing fortress. I was happy spending time sitting in the various cafes along the main street of Tiraspol, watching the world go by, in this city which is still firmly stuck in the Soviet past.
Transnistria is weird, strange, unconventional and charming, it’s a pleasure to visit and shouldn’t be rushed. Then there’s the Sturgeon farm! Caviar anyone?
A Brief History
The Dniester river, which forms the border between Transnistria and Moldova, flowing through Tiraspol.
I’m including this section to provide some background history on Transnistria to allow for a better understanding of why the territory has tried to go its own way since Moldova declared its independence.
Historically, the land occupied by current day Moldova, from the Prut river in the west, to the Dniester river in the east, was part of the Romanian Principality of Moldavia, which has its capital in the Romanian city of Iași. In 1812, during the reign of Tsar Alexander I, the Russian Empire invaded Romania and annexed the land between the Prut and Dniester rivers. This is the land which forms modern day Moldova.
Soviet-era symbols can be found throughout Transnistria.
Once the Russian Empire was dissolved in 1918, Moldova re-united with other Romanian lands inside Romania. After being occupied by the Soviet Union in 1940, and changing hands in 1941 and 1944 during World War II, Moldova would become part of the USSR and be known as the Moldavian SSR (Soviet Socialist Republic) until 1991.
Transnistria was also included in the Moldavian SSR, and, although the majority of its population are ethnically Russian, things remained peaceful since everyone was part of one country (the Soviet Union), everyone spoke one language (Russian), and everyone used one alphabet (Cyrillic).
Flag of Romania.
However, when the Soviet Union collapsed, Moldova declared its independence on August 27, 1991. At that time, it declared the national language would be changed from Russian to Romanian, the Cyrillic alphabet would be replaced with the Latin alphabet (which is the alphabet normally used by the Moldovan’s) and the national flag would be changed so that it was almost identical to the Romanian flag. Today in Moldova, there are calls from different groups, and politicians, to finally reunite the country with Romania.
Flag of Moldova.
War of Independence
Looking across from the other side of the Dniester river, the mostly Russian population of Transnistria was concerned that they would become a minority inside Moldova. They didn’t speak Moldovan; they didn’t use the Latin alphabet and they didn’t want to be a part of Romania.
Transnistria decided to declare its independence, a move which saw Moldova respond with force. Due to Russia’s involvement and Moldova’s limited defence capabilities, the War of Independence was short-lived, lasting from 1990 to 1992. A ceasefire was declared on the 21st of July 1992, which has held.
Despite everything, the international community has never recognised Transnistria and considers the territory a part of Moldova. If the world won’t recognise their independence, then the Transnistrian’s would rather join into a union with Russia, although Russia is not rushing to the altar. Currently, stability is assured due to the continued presence of Russian ground forces.
Politics
The coat of arms of Transnistria with the flags of (l-r) Transnistria, Russia and the different districts of Transnistria.
It’s not easy being an unrecognised republic. Despite this, the Republic of Transnistria, officially known as the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic (PMR) is headed by an elected President, currently – Vadim Krasnoselsky – who serves as the head of state while the Prime Minister is head of government.
A billboard in Tiraspol commemorates 29 years of the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic (PMR).
Transnistria today is an unrecognised republic with its own government, parliament, military, police, postal system, flag, currency and vehicle registration. While the republic is only recognised by the three other breakaway republics, Russia maintains a consulate in Tiraspol, but hasn’t recognised Transnistria as an independent state.
Flag
The reverse side of the flag of Transnistria.
The flag of Transnistria is actually the former flag of the Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic (MSSR), which served as the republic’s flag until the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991. When Moldova became independent, it changed its flag to be almost identical with that of neighbouring Romania.
Transnistria refused to fly the new Moldovan flag and continued to fly the flag of the MSSR. Continued use of the flag was popular and so, in 2000, it was officially reintroduced as the flag of Transnistria. The flag features the hammer & sickle, the only flag in Europe to do so. Despite the symbols, Transnistria is not a socialist state!
Philately
This small collection of Transnistrian stamps cost me US$3 from Tiraspol Post Office.
Since Transnistria is not recognised internationally, its stamps can only be used for domestic post. If someone in Transnistria needs to post something abroad, then Moldovan stamps need to be used. I spent a whole US$3 to acquire a tiny collection of stamps, which I’ll never be able to use, but they are a cool souvenir!
The main post office in Tiraspol.
If you wish to acquire your own collection of Transnistrian stamps, you will find the helpful staff at the main post office in Tiraspol more than willing to serve you.
As an experiment, you could try sending a postcard to a friend by affixing Moldovan and Transnistrian stamps. I have heard of cases where postal items have been delivered internationally with Transnistrian stamps attached.
Currency
My collection of Transnistrian ruble bank notes which feature an image of Alexander Suvorov, the Russian General who founded Tiraspol.
The currency of Transnistria is the rouble, which is issued by the Pridnestrovian Republican Bank (PRB). The notes come in denominations of 1-, 5-, 10-, 25-, 50-, 100-, 200 and 500 rubles. Bank notes are printed in Russia by the Goznakcompany and cannot be exchanged outside of Transnistria. Credit cards are generally not accepted in Transnistria.
The central bank of Transnistria, Pridnestrovian Republican Bank, is headquartered in Tiraspol.
Exchange Rates
Rouble exchange rates displayed at a bank in Tiraspol.
The ruble is de facto pegged to the United States dollar. The central bank determines each work day whether or not it is appropriate to devalue the currency against the U.S. dollar.
The World’s Only Plastic Token Currency
The plastic token money of Transnistria.
While changing money at the bank one day, the friendly teller ducked off to find something special for me. She returned with a small, blue, plastic token which looked like a playing chip from a casino. This was a 5-ruble plastic bank note/ chip. Amazing! The land of the wacky had just become even wackier! As illustrated above, there are four which you can collect.
From the ‘land of the quirky’ comes the plastic 5 rouble token and the equivalent paper bank note.
Costs
Transnistria is a travel bargain! Accommodation options include only ‘budget’ and ‘top end’, however top end options are priced as mid-range options. Food, drinks and transportation costs are very reasonable.
Sample costs:
Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): 11 rubles (US$0.68)
Water (0.33 litre bottle): 7.6 rubles (US$0.47)
Local Beer (0.5 litre from Bender Brewery): 25 rubles (US$1.50)
Dorm bed in a budget hostel (Like HomeHostel in Tiraspol): 180 rubles (US$11)
Room in a top-end hotel (Hotel Russia in Tiraspol): 1000 rubles (US$62)
Phone Services
Don’t expect your Moldovan, or international, SIM to work in Transnistria. I was using a SIM card from Orange (Moldova), which stopped working once I crossed the border. The only hope of connecting to the internet is through your hotel or one of the cafes or restaurants in Tiraspol.
People
Most residents of Tiraspol still live in drab, Soviet-era apartments, some of which are undergoing cosmetic renovation.
The authorities in Transnistria conducted a census in 2015, which counted a total population of 475,665, which was a 14% decrease from the previous census (conducted in 2004). Of the population, the largest ethnic groups were:
161,300 Russians (34%)
156,600 Moldovans (33%)
126,700 Ukrainians (26.7%)
A billboard in Tiraspol.
Russian is spoken by everyone and English (or any other foreign language) is spoken by almost no one. The minute you cross the border from Moldova to Transnistria, all signage changes to Cyrillic. I stayed at the best hotel in town, the Hotel Russia, where only the reception staff were able to communicate in English. There are some English speakers working in the cafes and restaurants in Tiraspol.
Compared to their Moldovan neighbours, I found the people of Transnistria to be very reserved and not particularly friendly. They seemed very stern and serious, rarely smiled or made eye contact. There were a few exceptions – but only a few!
The Transnistrian passport is not recognised by other countries and hence cannot be used for international travel.
While the residents of Transnistria are issued with passports, these are not recognised by the intentional community and therefore, not valid for international travel. Almost all Transnistrian’s have a second passport, which is either Russian, Ukrainian or Moldovan, depending on their heritage.
Economy
Why the continuous population decline? It’s all about the economy – or the lack of economic opportunities!
After visiting Transnistria, I travelled to Odessa, Ukraine where I met many Transnistrian’s (of Ukrainian decent) who had relocated to Odessa to find employment. While the economy remains dysfunctional in Transnistria, the population decline will continue as people look for work elsewhere. Despite the issues between Moldova and Transnistria, many Transnistrian’s live and work in Chisinau.
The economy of Transnistria is a peculiar combination of the command-and-distribution model inherited from the USSR with elements of a free-market economy which is heavily dependent on Russian energy and financial subsidies. The main pillars of the region’s economy are several large industrial plants – a power plant, steel works, cement works and a textile factory. These were built in the Soviet era and generate more than half of the territory’s GDP (in 2012, Transnistria’s GDP reached around US$1 billion).
The government maintains a permanent deficit, one which has been continuously increasing since 2008. The major sources of income in Transnistria’s economy are from exports and cash remittances from expatriate workers.
Sightseeing
This ageing peace (Frieden) sign adorns the side of an apartment block on the road from Tiraspol to Bender.
While sightseeing in Transnistria, you should always keep an eye open for hidden Soviet-era treasures. Non-descript buildings, in the most unremarkable locations, often feature beautiful Soviet artwork.
An incredible ‘CCCP Worker’ stone mosaic on the wall of a factory in a quiet backstreet in Bender.
While trying to find my way to Bender Fortress, I drove down a backstreet of an industrial estate which seemed all but abandoned. At the end of the street, in the middle of nowhere, I came upon a factory whose exterior wall was adorned with the most impressive stone mosaic of a worker holding a ‘CCCP’ (USSR in Russian) pentagon in his right hand.
An unremarkable factory in a quiet back street of Bender, which features two impressive works of Soviet-era industrial art.
Tiraspol
A map of Tiraspol which was provided by the Hotel Russia.
The capital, and largest city of Transnistria, Tiraspol was founded by the Russian General Alexander Suvurov. The city has a handful of sights, all of which can be visited on a leisurely walking tour. If you wish to have a knowledgeable local show you the sights, and provide a dose of humour along the way, I suggest you organise a tour with Anton Dendemarchenko (refer to the ‘Walking Tours‘ section above for more details).
The real charm of Tiraspol comes from it being a city which is in the 21st century, but also stuck in the Soviet past. While the sights are interesting, there’s much more to Tiraspol, which is revealed to those curious enough to scratch below the surface.
The main street of Tiraspol, 25th of October street, is lined with planter boxes full of colourful flowers.
Most sights in Tiraspol are strung out along the main street, 25th of October street, which is named after the date of the Russian revolution which saw Lenin sweep into power in 1917.
House of Soviets
The Dom Sovetov (House of Soviets), serves as the Tiraspol City Hall and is fronted by a bust of Lenin.
Located in the heart of downtown Tiraspol, the strikingly beautiful, Stalin-era, Dom Sovetov (House of Soviets), serves as the TiraspolCity Hall. The building, which is fronted by a bust of an angry-looking Lenin, is not open to visitors and technically, as a government building, should not be photographed, but every tourist in town stops to photograph it. From the Hotel Russia, the City Hall is a short 100-metre walk.
Lenin Statue
This cloaked statue of Lenin greets all visitors arriving in Tiraspol.
As you drive into Tiraspol, it’s impossible to miss the large Lenin statue which looms over the main street. The cloaked statue fronts the Presidential Palace, the seat of Transdniester’s government, and serves as a striking ‘welcome’ to this most Soviet of cities.
War Memorial Park
The Tank-34 monument, which features a WWII-era Soviet armoured tank.
Across the road from the Presidential Palace, the War Memorial park features one of the best photo ops in town, the Tank-34 monument. The tank was used during WWII, but sadly, the crew was killed in a battle near Budapest, Hungary. It stands as a memorial to those who lost their lives in WWII.
The flame of the unknown soldier in the War Memorial park.
The centrepiece of the War Memorial park, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is flanked by an eternal flame, which honours those who died on 3 March 1992, during the first outbreak of fighting in the War of Independence.
A memorial to the War of Independence in Tiraspol.
At the western end of the park, against the wall of the History Museum, a memorial is dedicated to those who lost their lives during the War of Independence.
Tiraspol National History Museum
One of many rooms of exhibits at the Tiraspol National History Museum.
If you wish to gain a better understanding of Transnistria, the Tiraspol National History Museum features many rooms of exhibits which cover all periods of the territory’s history, from 19th-century Tiraspol, to the Soviet period, the Great Patriotic War (WWII) and finishing with the War of Independence in 1992.
Russian soldiers and weaponry, arriving in Transnistria, to support local militia, during the War of Independence against Moldova.
A room dedicated to the War of Independence, pays homage to the close relationship enjoyed with Russia. Locals told me that the territory owes its peace (and existence) to the continuous support of Russia, which includes the presence of Russian troops. Putin is popular in these parts!
A display at the Tiraspol National History Museum shows appreciation for Russia and, a very cool looking Putin.
Apart from historical displays, the museum also serves as an art gallery of sorts, and includes a hallway lined with paintings from local artists.
A hallway at the museum is lined with paintings from local artists.
Monument to Suvorov
The monument to Suvorov in Tiraspol, with the flags of (l-r) Abkhazia, South Ossetia and the Republic of Artsakh.
Commanding attention in the middle of Suvorov Square is the equestrian statue of Suvorov, a great Russian Military Commander, who founded the city of Tiraspol in 1792. The flags of the other three breakaway republics can be seen, fluttering away, in the background of this photo.
Church of the Nativity
A recent addition to the city, the Russian-orthodox ‘Church of the Nativity’ was completed in 1999.
Located behind Suvorov Square, the Church of the Nativity is also known as the Cathedral of the Birth of Christ. Completed in 1999, this beautiful, Russian-Orthodox, church is the largest and newest church in Tiraspol. Located next to the central market, it’s easy to find thanks to its sparkling, golden, onion-shaped domes.
Dniester River Promenade
The promenade along the Dniester river is a great place to mingle with locals and watch the sunset.
Across the road from Suvorov Square, the sleepy promenade along the Dniester river is especially popular with locals in the late afternoon and is the best place to watch the sunset.
Sunset on the Dniester River in Tiraspol.
KVINT Wine & Cognac Distillery
The headquarters of the Kvint distillery is featured on the back of the 5-ruble bank note.
Where else in the world would the headquarters of a distillery be featured on the national currency? Transnistria of course! The 120-year old Kvint Winery and Distillery started life as a distiller of vodka. Today it’s famous for its wines and cognac.
The shop at the Kvint Winery and Distillery.
At its downtown headquarters, the company offers wine and spirit tastings, tours and an on-site shop sells the full range of their award-winning products.
Bender
Located on the opposite bank of the Dniester river, and the only part of Transnistria which is not east of the river, the City of Bender, is not part of the territorial unit of Transnistria (as defined by the Moldovan central authorities), but it is controlled by the PMR authorities, which consider it part of PMR’s administrative organisation.
The entrance to Bender Fortress.
Bender occupies a strategic location on a ‘bend’ in the Dniester river. The city was first mentioned in documents dating back to 1408, when it was known as Tighina.
Bender was historically part of the Principality of Moldavia and was once part of Romania. In 1538, the Ottomans took control of Tighina, renaming it Bender. During their rule, the fortress was modernised and expanded. In 1812, the Russians defeated the Ottomans, taking control of Bender. Today, it’s part of Transnistria with Russian troops guarding the bridge which crosses the Dniester river alongside the famous fortress.
A view of the Ramparts of Bender Fortress.
For many years, the fortress was closed as it’s home to a military barracks and is considered a military installation. Today it’s open (every day from 9 am to 6 pm) to visitors and is the most impressive sight in Transnistria.
The ‘Iron Maiden’ torture device.
Apart from walking along the impressive ramparts, there are two museums to explore; one which documents the long history of the fort and another which shows lots of gruesome torture devices.
Among the devices, the ‘Iron Maiden’ is a wooden closet loaded with strategically placed spikes. The victim would be placed inside, the doors closed, at which point the spikes would pierce the body – but not the vital organs. The victim would be left to die a slow, painful death. Then there’s the less-than-comfortable ‘Interrogation Chair’.
The ‘Interrogation Chair’. Ouch!
Accommodation
The centrally located, Hotel Russia, is the best hotel in Tiraspol, and very affordable at USD$60 per night.
While in Tiraspol, I stayed at the Hotel Russia, which seems fitting when in a republic which dreams of being a part of Russia! The staff at the Hotel Russia speak – Russian, with just the reception staff able to communicate in English.
The Russian theme extends to the cable TV offering, with a selection of – yes – Russian channels! The only English-language channel was the RT (Russia Today) English broadcast, which provides a constant stream of, state-sponsored, propaganda.
My room at the Hotel Russia in Tiraspol.
As can be expected from the Hotel Russia, their website offers one language option – Russian! Rooms can be booked through Hotel.com or Booking.com.
Eating Out
An ornate coffee vending machine in Tiraspol.
Restaurants
There are a handful of restaurants in downtown Tiraspol which offer Moldovan, Italian, Japanese cuisine and more.
If you’ve appreciated Andy’s Pizza in Chisinau, you’ll be happy to know that there’s a branch in Tiraspol on the main street at 25th October St #72.
Cafés
The beautifully-designed interior of Casta which is a wonderful cafe/ restaurant, located on the main street of Tiraspol.
A few coffee shops can be found along the main street of Tiraspol. One of my favourites is the beautifully-designed Casta (website only in Russian), which offers a menu of international food, cocktails, great coffee, cakes and so much more. It’s located opposite the Central Bank on the main street at – 25th of October street #92.
Bars
One of the local beers which is brewed by the Bender Brewing company.
Despite the fact that Transnistria produces its fair share of alcohol, there are surprisingly few bars in Tiraspol. However, most restaurants serve alcohol which gives visitors an opportunity to sample the beers produced by the Bender Brewing company and the wines and cognac produced by the Kvint distillery.
Visa Requirements
My Transnistria ‘Migration Card’.
Transnistria does not require foreign visitors to obtain a visa; you can stay for up to 45 days without a residence permit. However, you will be issued a Migration Card based on the amount of time you require for your stay.
No stamps are entered into your passport when passing from Moldova to Transnistria. The Moldovan’s consider the territory to be a part of Moldova, so why would they stamp your passport? On the Moldovan side, the ‘border’ consists of a police check, although the police did not stop me.
On the Transnistrian side, the border is much more serious, with stern looking guards ensuring you don’t take photos. I entered the territory at the land border on the highway from Chisinau, which is the border almost all other visitors use to enter the territory. Here, you need to enter an office, present your passport, which is scanned and advise how long you will be staying. You will then be issued with a Migration Card which states how long you can remain in the territory. You need to keep this with you at all times! There are no passport stamps issued in Transnistria!
Carnet de Passage
All vehicles entering Transnistria are required to purchase a ‘Carnet de Passage’.
If you’re entering Transnistria in a rental car, you will be required to purchase a Carnet de Passage which cost me 58 rubles for one week (also payable in other currencies). This is purchased from the customs office which is located inside a separate building.
Getting There
Distances to other cities from Tiraspol.
Air
Tiraspol airport, which has only ever served as a military air base, is currently closed, but the separatist administration wants it reopened in order to help boost economic growth. Since flights will have to pass through Moldovan air space, clearance is required from the Moldovan authorities, who, naturally, are not willing to give it.
Moldova
The nearest airport to Tiraspol is Chișinău International Airport (IATA: KIV) in Moldova, which is 54 km from Tiraspol. Chisinau International Airport serves as the base for Air Moldova.
The following airlines provide scheduled flights to/ from Chisinau:
Aeroflot – flies to/from Moscow–Sheremetyevo
Air Moldova– flies to/from Barcelona, Beauvais, Beirut, Bologna, Dublin, Frankfurt, Geneva, Istanbul, Krasnodar, Larnaca, Lisbon, London–Stansted, Madrid, Milan–Malpensa, Moscow–Domodedovo, Nice, Rome–Fiumicino, Saint Petersburg, Tel Aviv, Thessaloniki, Turin, Venice, Verona, Vienna
Ukraine International Airlines – flies to/from Istanbul, Kiev–Boryspil, Tel Aviv
Wizz Air – flies to/from Berlin-Schönefeld, Bratislava, Budapest, Gdańsk, Katowice, Wrocław
Road
Moldova
From Chisinau to Tiraspol: There are bus and maxi-taxi services from Chisinau (2 hr 20 min, 36.50 Moldovan lei) every 30 minutes through most of the day. Buses leave from the northeast corner of the ChisinauAutogara.
Rail
I rode 3rd class on the train from Chișinău to Odessa which was pleasant and comfortable.
Chisinau – Tiraspol – Odessa
A thrice weekly (Friday, Saturday and Sunday) train connects Chisinau to Tiraspol and Odessa, departing Chisinau at 07:09, arriving in Tiraspol at 09:20 then terminating in Odessa at 10:45. Tickets can be booked either online or at the main station.
Prices (Chisinau to Odessa) are:
1st class: 167.20 Moldovan lei
2nd class: 159.10 Moldovan lei
3rd class: 151.40 Moldovan lei
Getting Around
An ornate street sign in Tiraspol at the intersection of Lenin street and 25th of October street.
Public Transport
Soviet-era buses connect to most points in Tiraspol and Bender.
A comprehensive network of trolley buses, regular buses and mini buses (Marshrutkain Russian) allow commuters to reach all parts of Tiraspol and Bender – and at just 2 rubles (US$0.14) a ride, they are a bargain!
Taxi
While taxis are freely available in Tiraspol, the city is very compact and easily covered on foot. I didn’t take any taxis while in Transnistria.
Rental Car
The license plate of Transnistria features the flag and also indicates which district the car is from, with ‘T’ representing Tiraspol.
The rental car industry in Transnistria is in its infancy, with just one rental company in Tiraspol – “IOOO” Rent a Car. As can be expected, their website offers one language option – Russian! I drove a rental car from Chisinau, which cost me US$30 per day.
Welcome to the taste2travel Isle of Man Travel Guide!
Date Visited: April 2018
Introduction
Many people have heard of the Isle of Man (IOM), but how many people, outside of the British Isles or Ireland, could point to it on a map of the world? I know I had to take a look at my atlas – and was surprised by its location!
The Isle of Man is small in area, with good infrastructure and varying landscapes.
Located in the Irish Sea, like a giant’s stepping stone, mid-way between England and Ireland, the Isle of Man, along with Guernsey and Jersey, is one of three self-governing British Crown Dependencies.
The striking flag of the Isle of Man, includes the ‘Legs of Man’, an ancient symbol.
What exactly is a Crown Dependency?
Crown Dependencies do not form part of the United Kingdom and are not classed as British Overseas Territories, they maintain a large degree of autonomy over their own affairs. They issue their own currency, stamps and passports.
In the international realm, the dependencies are considered “territories for which the United Kingdom is responsible“. Each of the Crown Dependencies have their own legislative assemblies, with the power to legislate on many local matters.
The view of the town of Peel.
For travel purposes, all Crown Dependencies lie within the Common Travel Area (CTA), which includes the United Kingdom and Ireland. There are no passport controls when travelling between areas in the CTA and all air and sea connections to IOM originate from within the zone.
The Isle of Man is known for its bucolic scenery.
Known for its rich history, beautiful countryside, sleepy villages and attractive towns, the Isle of Man attracts surprisingly few visitors, with just 266,000 arrivals in 2017, most of whom were from the UK and Ireland. If you make the journey, you will be rewarded. The island offers plenty of accommodation and dining options, delicious, locally brewed, craft beer and plenty of attractions.
A view of the capital Douglas, which is located on a wide bay overlooking the Irish Sea.
The small size of the island allows you to base yourself in one location and explore the remotest of corners – all on easy day trips. I would recommend the capital, Douglas, as a convenient base.
Getting around the island is made even more pleasant thanks to various heritage railways, which are operated by the Isle of Man Rail Company. This is the island that gave the World “Thomas the Tank Engine”.
Did you know?
Thomas the Tank Engine – inspired by the railways of IOM. Source: Wikipedia
Thomas the Tank Engine was inspired by the Isle of Man Steam Railway and the feature film “Thomas and the Magic Railroad” was filmed on the island.
The creator of Thomas, the Reverend Wilbert (WV) Awdry, was stationed on the Isle of Man in 1945 when the first story was written. The island is within the ‘Diocese of Sodor and Man’. The story of “Thomas and Friends” is set on a fictitious island in the Irish Sea known as ‘Sodor‘.
Location
Douglas, Isle of Man
The Isle of Man is located in the middle of the Irish sea, almost equidistant between Ireland and the United Kingdom, from which there are regular ferry and air services.
At 572 square kilometres (221 square miles), hilly IOM is smaller than Singapore but much larger than Jersey or Guernsey, sustaining a population of 84,000 plus many sheep. The highest point on the island is Mt. Snaefell which lies at 621 metres (2037 ft) and is accessible via the Mt. Snaefell Mountain Railway.
Mt. Snaefell, the highest point on the Isle of Man, rises gently to 621 metres (2037 ft).
Currency
Isle of Man bank notes.
Like Guernsey and Jersey, the Isle of Man issues its own version of the Pound (£) – the Manx Pound which is in parity with the UK Pound Sterling. Notes and coins, denominated in pounds and pence, are issued by the Isle of Man Government Treasury.
UK notes and coins (whether from banks in England, Scotland, or Northern Ireland) are accepted in the Isle of Man, but Manx notes and coins are not accepted in the UK. You should ensure you convert any Manx currency to UK currency prior to leaving the island.
Unlike the mainland, the Crown Dependencies still use £1 notes.
Flag
The unique flag of the Isle of Man features the “Triskelion” – the legs of Man.
The flag of the Isle of Man features a Triskelion, an ancient symbol which is comprised of three armoured legs with golden spurs, upon a red background. Known as the ‘Legs of Man’, the triskelion has featured on the island’s coat of arms since the 13th century.
The Isle of Man flag fluttering in the breeze on the promenade in Douglas.
Sightseeing
Douglas
The waterfront in Douglas, capital of the Isle of Man.
Home to 28,000 souls (33% of the island’s population), Douglas is the largest city and capital of the Isle of Man. The city is located on the wide Douglas Bay, which curves for 2 miles along the coastline. Most accommodation can be found along the waterfront, which is home to a pedestrian promenade and the Douglas Bay Horse Tramway.
The historic Douglas Bay Horse Tramway is a great way to take in the sights of the Capital’s waterfront.
Founded in 1876, this ‘single-horse power’ tram clops for 1.6 miles along the promenade in downtown Douglas, connecting Derby Castle to the Sea Terminal. The tram is operated by the Isle of Man Rail Company with a single ride ticket costing £3 for adults and £2 per child. There are currently 16 different ‘trammers’ working for the tramway with others in training.
Made from Manx granite, the Douglas War Memorial is dedicated to those who lost their lives in WWI and WWII.
One of the sights you pass while riding the horse tramway is the impressive Douglas War Memorial. This 15 metre (50 feet) high column is constructed from Manx Granite and is surmounted by the three-ton figure of a soldier called “The Manxman“. The memorial is located on the promenade with the soldier’s back turned from the sea.
At the end of the promenade is the Isle of Man Sea Terminal which is the arrival point for the Steam Packet Ferries which connect the Isle of Man to the UK and Ireland
Built in 1832, the Tower of Refuge sits atop St. Mary’s Isle, a partly submerged reef in Douglas harbour.
Located on St. Mary’s Isle, just offshore from the Sea terminal, is the medieval-looking ‘Tower of Refuge’ which was built in 1832 as a refuge for anyone shipwrecked on the isle. The refuge was constructed two years after a ship, the ‘St. George’, was wrecked upon the rocks. All 40 crewmen were rescued successfully.
Wedged between the Isle of Man Sea Terminal and Douglas Railway station is the Douglas Marina and Quayside precinct, which is home to numerous cafes, bars and restaurants (see the ‘Eating Out’ section for more details). This neighbourhood is relaxed and sleepy during the day but comes alive at night, offering lots of entertainment and dining options.
One of the best museums in the country is the Manx Museumwhich is located in downtown Douglas. The museum displays cover every aspect of island history (10,000 years of it!) from the Viking era to the modern era.
Beyond Douglas
Once you’ve finished exploring the sights of Douglas, you can venture further afield using one of the three heritage railways which are operated by the Isle of Man Rail Company. All of these services are fantastic and a ‘must do’ while on the island.
The Manx Electric railway ready to depart from the promenade at Douglas.
Manx Electric Railway
From its terminus at Derby Castle (located at the northern end of the promenade), the Manx Electric Railway (MER) connects the capital with the northern towns of Laxey and Ramsey, covering a total distance of 28 km (17.5 mi) in a leisurely 75 minutes. Built between 1893 and 1899, the railway offers spectacular views of the east coast. A return journey from Douglas to Ramsey costs £12.40 for adults.
The Manx Electric Railway offers panoramic views of the coastline north of Douglas.
In the town of Laxey, you can transfer from the MER to another heritage railway – the Snaefell Mountain Railway (light green line on the Map), which will transport you to the highest peak on the Isle of Man (see the ‘Mt. Snaefell‘ section below for more details).
The Snaefell Mountain Railway ready to depart Laxey for the climb to the summit of Mount Snaefell.
Isle of Man Steam Railway
If you wish to explore the southern part of the island, you can do so using the Isle of Man Steam Railway which connects Douglas to Port Erin (where you’ll find a museum dedicated to the railway), via Castletown.
The railway commenced service in 1874 and still operates with its original locomotives and red carriages. The journey time from Douglas to the terminus at Port Erin is one hour with an adult return fare costing £13.40.
The distinctly red carriages of the Isle of Man Steam Railway Company.
Around the Island
A touring map of the Isle of Man displayed outside Ramsey station.
The short distances, excellent infrastructure and light traffic on the island, allow you to easily explore IOM on day trips, using Douglas as a base.
Some sample road distances:
Douglas to Ramsey – 20 km (12 mi)
Douglas to Castletown – 14 km (9 mi)
Douglas to Port Erin – 19 km (11 mi)
Douglas to Peel – 16 km (10 mi)
Douglas to Point of Ayre – 36 km (19 mi)
The beautiful Ring-necked Pheasant is a common sight on the Isle of Man.
Isle of Man TT Mountain Course
A map of the TT Race course.
Motorcycling enthusiast’s, the world over, know all about the International Isle of Man TT (Tourist Trophy) race, which is held annually at the end of May. The race has been run since 1907, and is often called one of the most dangerous racing events in the world.
The course runs west from Douglas then north to the town of Ramsey before returning to Douglas over the central mountain range. Each lap is 60.7 km (38 mi) in length, includes more than 200 bends and climbs from sea level to an altitude of 396 m (1,300 ft) at the base of Mount Snaefell. The current lap record is held by Peter Hickman who, in 2018, completed the course in 16:42:778, at an average speed of 217 km/h (135 mph).
Taking a pit stop while driving my rental car around the TT circuit.
The entire circuit is comprised of ordinary public highways which are closed for the racing and practice sessions. This is great news if you have your own rental car. A drive around the circuit is a must while on the island, offering many fine views and access to many different sights.
Plenty of picturesque views to be seen while driving the TT circuit.
St. Michael’s Isle
Derby Fort, St Michael’s Isle.
Well away from the noise of the TT circuit and located a short drive from Castletown, St Michael’s Isle (or Fort Island as it’s more commonly known), is home to two historic, ruined sights; the beautifully situated Derby Fort and St. Michael’s Chapel. The two sights are dramatically placed on the tiny isle, making the trip to this remote corner of IOM worthwhile.
The isle is no longer technically ‘an island’ as it’s joined to the mainland by an extremely narrow, one-lane, unpaved (and heavily pot-holed) causeway which is lined with thick, unforgiving, stone walls. You should not attempt to cross this in anything other than a small, compact car.
St. Michael’s chapel on St Michael’s Isle.
Built in the 12th century, the roofless St Michael’s Chapel consists of four walls and a bell turret. Next to the chapel, the circular Derby Fort was built in 1645 by James, 7th Earl of Derby and Lord of Mann during the civil war in England to defend nearby Derbyhaven Bay, which was then a major port, from invading forces. The current fort replaced an earlier one built in about 1540 by order of Henry VIII of England.
Castletown
The namesake of Castletown, Castle Rushen dominates the downtown area.
With a population of 3,100 – Castletown is the 5th largest town on the Isle of Man. Founded in 1090 AD, Castletown claims to be one of the oldest towns in the British Isles and served as the capital of the IOM for hundreds of years until it was transferred to Douglas in 1869.
The downtown is dominated by the imposing Medieval fortress, Castle Rushen, which was built in 1265 for a Viking king. The castle was once occupied by the Kings and Lords of Mann and is today a museum operated by Manx National Heritage.
The scenic harbour in Castletown.
Castletown is located on a pretty fishing port which experiences large tidal flows. A short walk from the harbour is the Old House of Keys, the former Manx parliament which is now a museum administered by Manx National Heritage. The current ‘House of Keys’ is in Douglas.
The former debating chamber at the Old House of Keys in Castletown.
Calf of Man
The ‘Calf of Man’ is separated from the mainland by Calf Sound and the small rocky islet of ‘Kitterland’.
A short drive along the south coast from Castletown lies the Calf of Man, the southernmost tip of the Isle of Man. The word ‘calf’ derives from the Old Norse word ‘kalfr‘ which means a small island lying near a larger one.
The Calf of Man is an uninhabited island which is separated from the ‘mainland’ by the narrow Calf Sound, a stretch of water notorious for its ferocious tidal race.
The windy Sound Road leads from Port St. Mary through the historic (and very picturesque village) of Cregneash to lands-end where you’ll find a car park and the excellent Sound Cafe(see the ‘Eating Out‘ section below for more details).
From the car park, walking trails offer views of the coastline, the Calf of Man and the small rocky islet of Kitterland which lies midway across the Sound and is home to a number of Grey seal colonies. The area is also and ideal destination for birdwatchers with large numbers of migratory seabirds present.
A Grey seal colony on Kitterland – a small rocky islet located between the mainland and the Calf of Man.
Port Erin
Port Erin offers one of the best beaches on the Isle of Man.
Situated in the southwest corner of the island, charming Port Erin is home to one of the most attractive beaches on the Isle of Man, which makes this town a favourite destination for holiday makers and those interested in aquatic sports.
A Steam locomotive at the Isle of Man Railway Museum in Port Erin.
The town has been a popular holiday destination since the Victorian era and is the terminus of the Isle of Man Steam Railway. Adjacent to the Port Erin Railway Station is the Isle of Man Railway Museum which charts the history of the Steam Railway from its inception in 1873. The museum features a collection of retired steam locomotives and other rail memorabilia.
Southwest Coast
A typical view along the rugged southwest coast of the Isle of Man.
The drive from Port Erin to Peel via Round Table road then Dalby road travels along the rugged, sparsely populated, southwest coast which is home to lots of wild landscapes of spiky rushes, carpets of moss and wet, peaty soils. Walking trails provide access to the hilly coastline, which offers panoramic views in all directions.
Peel
The sprawling 11th-century Peel castle.
The west coast town of Peel is dominated by the magnificent fortress ruin of Peel Castle which occupies St. Patrick’s Isle, an isle which has been inhabited since at least the Bronze Age and is named after St Patrick who, it is claimed, stepped ashore the Isle of Man at this point while on his way from Liverpool to Ireland, bringing Christianity to the island.
The first fort was built by the Vikings in the 11th century. After the Viking period, the Isle of Man was fought over by the Scottish and English, with the IOM eventually being conquered by the English who then added to the fortifications. During the English reign, St Patrick’s Isle was used both by the Church and the Lords of Mann until the castle was abandoned in the 18th century. Today, the castle is a museum operated by Manx National Heritage.
The ruined Cathedral inside Peel castle.
With a population of 5,000 – Peel is the third largest town on the Isle of Man and was the capital of the island before 1344 (when the King of Mann moved his home and military base from Peel Castle to Castle Rushen).
This west coast town is famous for its sunsets, thriving fishing port, rich maritime history, historic old town and various museums, including the House of Manannanmuseum which provides an insight into the island’s Celtic, Viking and maritime past.
The view of Peel from Peel castle.
You cannot visit Peel without sampling the best ice-cream on the Isle of Man which is served by the scoop at Davisons ice cream shop which is located on the waterfront. Besides ice-cream, they make a mean milkshake, using only the finest of Manx dairy ice cream.
St. John’s
The Tynwald Hill is the sight of the original parliament on the Isle of Man.
A short drive east of Peel is the hamlet of St. John’s which is home to the historic, man-made bump known as the Tynwald Hill. This four-tired hill, which is thought to be made from soil from all the Island’s 17 ancient parishes, is used once a year to host an open-air meeting of the Island’s parliament.
The location was first used by the Vikings who conducted parliamentary meetings here over a thousand years ago. The hill was constructed in the 13th century, and has been in continuous use making it the oldest continuous parliament in the world.
Far North Coast
The pebbly beach at the Point of Ayre. Scotland lies just beyond the horizon.
The most northerly point on the Isle of Man is the remote and isolated Point of Ayre, which is closer to Scotland than Douglas. Here you’ll find the Ayres Nature Reserve which is one of the best places to observe wildlife on the Isle of Man and the Point of Ayre lighthouse.
An historic Celtic Cross in the grounds of St Andrew’s Church in the northern town of Andreas.
In the town of Andreas, the Church of England church, St. Andrew’s is worth a stop. The current church dates from 1821, however a church has stood at this location since at least the 13th century.
A typical thatched cottage on Cranstal Road, near the northern village of Bride.
Several charming villages can be found in the north of the island with traditional Manx thatched-roof cottages lining the country lanes. The village of Bride is home to some excellent examples with one pictured here.
Ramsey
A tourism poster for the Isle of Man.
Located on the northeast coast, the town of Ramsey (pop: 7,300) is the second largest town on the Island and is the northern terminus for the Manx Electric Railway which travels up the coast from Douglas. Besides the railway, the town can be reached by road, travelling along the world-famous TT Mountain Course, which affords stunning views of the countryside and coast before it descends into town.
The TT Mountain Circuit crosses the Manx hills before descending into Ramsey.
Ramsey is in the sunniest area of the Isle of Man, and one of the driest, receiving relatively low rainfall due to its ‘rain shadow’ location, north-east of the Manx hills.
North of Ramsey, sandy beaches run continuously to the north tip of the island. Downtown, Ramsey beach is popular in the summertime and is punctuated by the 683 metre (2,241 ft) long Queen’s Pier, an iron pier which was built in 1886. Located near the intersection of Queen’s promenade and Queen’s drive, the crumbling Queen’s Pier has been closed to the public since the early 1990’s due to safety concerns and is awaiting restoration. Currently a society, the Friends of Ramsey Queen’s Pier, are raising funds to commence restoration work, you can keep up to date with their efforts here.
The Manx Electric railway ready to depart from Ramsay (Parsonage Road) for Douglas.
The charming old town lies a short stroll from the Manx Electric Railway terminus (Parsonage Road) and can easily be explored on foot in an hour or two. Several restaurants and cafes line the main street, Parliament street, providing good lunchtime dining options or a quick caffeine fix. The best coffee in town is served by the Costa Cafe branch on Parliament street.
Laxey
Towering over the village of Laxey, the Great Laxey wheel is the largest working waterwheel in the world.
Located in a deep valley on the east coast, midway between Douglas and Ramsey, Laxey is a historic village which was named by the Vikings who called it Laxa meaning Salmon River.
Originally used to pump water from a mine, the Great Laxey wheel is built into the hillside above the village of Laxey in the Isle of Man.
The main attraction in town is the impressive GreatLaxey wheel, the largest working waterwheel in the world. Also known as the Lady Isabella (after the wife of a former governor), the wheel was built in 1854 to pump water from the Laxey mine shafts. Revolving at about 3 rpm, the wheel is 72 feet 6 inches (22.10 m) in diameter and 6 feet (1.83 m) wide.
Getting close to the fast-moving Lady Isabella.
Lead, Silver, Copper and Zinc were mined in Laxey during the 19th and 20th centuries, and today several walking trails allow tourists to visit former mine sights.
Now operated by Manx National Heritage, the wheel can be visited daily (except in winter), with a spiral staircase providing access to the top of the wheel from where you have panoramic views of Laxey village and the surrounding countryside.
A view of Laxey village from the top of the wheel.
Laxey is a key railway junction, serving as the terminus for the Snaefell Mountain Railway and an important stopover for the Manx Electric Railway.
Laxey Railway station is the terminus for the Snaefell Mountain Railway and a key stop for the Manx Electric Railway.
Mount Snaefell
A view of Mt. Snaefell from the main road. Trains can be seen climbing to the summit.
From Laxey you can journey to the summit of the Island’s only mountain, Mount Snaefell 621 m (2,036 feet) from where it is said you can view Six Kingdoms on a clear day – The Isle of Man, England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales and Heaven.
To reach the summit, you have two options:
Join the Snaefell Mountain Railway from Laxey for the 8 km (5 mi) climb to the summit, a journey time of 30 minutes.
Walk the 10 km (6 mi) trail from Laxey station to the summit which can be completed in 4.5 hours. Full details on the walk can be found here.
Travelling to the summit of Mt. Snaefell on the Mt. Snaefell railway.
I chose to take the mountain railway which was a smart move as inclement weather moved in over the mountain (a frequent occurrence) during my ascent. What started as a fine, sunny day in Laxey turned into a cold, foggy, snowy day once we started climbing up the mountain and what started as a gently breeze soon became a howling gale.
Video:
Conditions on the summit of Mt. Snaefell were bleak indeed!
The only place where you can see all of the UK
There is an irony to the fact that Isle of Man is not part of the UK, yet it is the only location in the British Isles from which you can see all the UK’s constituent parts – on clear days, England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland are visible from Mount Snaefell, but unfortunately – not on the day I visited.
Bleak conditions on the summit of Mt. Snaefell.
The one saving grace on the summit was the warm and inviting Snaefell Summit Dining cafe where you can literally eat ‘pie in the sky‘.
Accommodation
Historic houses along the promenade in Douglas are home to numerous B&B’s.
Accommodation options can be found all over the Isle of Man, with the majority or properties lining the promenade in downtown Douglas. With most transport options originating in Douglas, the capital makes an ideal base for exploring the island, with all points on the island an easy day trip away.
My ‘King Suite’ at the Inglewood Hotel in Douglas.
While on the Isle of Man, I chose to stay at the wonderful Inglewood Guest House. Located on the waterfront, this dazzling and stylish B&B was recently taken over by an amazingly energetic and enthusiastic South African couple, Yolandi and Ruan, who were busy adding their personal touches to the property at the time of my visit.
Booking.com currently lists 48 properties on the island, hotels.com lists 38 while Airbnb.com list 48 different properties from farm houses to manor houses.
Eating Out
The very pleasant Douglas Marina and Quayside is lined with restaurants, bars and cafes.
Inviting restaurants, cafés and bars can be found in all the main towns on the island, with Douglas being home to the lion’s share of options. The main dining hubs in the capital are the Douglas Marina and Quayside neighbourhood and the Promenade.
Restaurants
Located on the quayside, the Barbary Coast Grill & Bar is a lively and popular venue, with a menu that wouldn’t look out-of-place in an American sports bar. While the steaks and burgers are popular, the house speciality is their Peri Peri chicken. If you wish to sample the range of locally produced craft beers from Okell’s, you’ll find them on tap at the bar.
A short walk west along the quay is the wonderful Little Fish Cafe which offers all of the usual seafood classics in a refined atmosphere. Why not try their ‘Fish and Fizz’, traditional Fish ‘n’ Chips served with a glass of prosecco.
On the promenade there are many restaurants within walking distance of the hotels. One of the standouts is New Manila which, despite its name, offers excellent Thai cuisine.
Cafés
The amazing cake selection at the very remote ‘Sound Cafe’.
One of my favourite cafes on the Isle of Man is the very remote Sound Cafe, which is located at the end of Sound Road, a short drive south of the picturesque village of Cregneash at the southwestern tip of the island. To say this legendary, family run cafe is worth the drive is an understatement. The cafe is adjacent to the Calf Sound visitor car park (plenty of free parking) and offers views of the sound and the nearby Calf of Man.
The ‘Legs of Mann’ featured on a couple of cafe latte’s.
Being a self-declared café snob, I would not normally recommend a coffee chain as a place to enjoy a coffee – but – on the Isle of Man, there are three branches of Costa Coffee, with all three offering good coffee. Located in Douglas, Ramsey and Castletown, the branches at the later two locations offer the best coffee in those towns.
Beer
A pint of Okell’s beer is a fine way to relax after a day of touring the Isle of Man.
The local brewery, Okell’s, was founded in 1850 by Doctor William Okell – so, the beer must be good for you!
While visiting the island, I sampled most of Okell’s range of beers with the firm belief that any beverage created by a doctor must be good for one’s health.
Three of Okell’s regular beers. Source: Okells.im
The brewery produces five regular beers, including a Bitter, IPA and an MPA (Manx Pale Ale) along with four seasonal brews (Spring Ram, Summer Storm, Autumn Dawn and – in time for Christmas – St. Nick). Islanders are very loyal to their local brew with almost every bar on the island offering you the opportunity to sample these fine brews.
It’s just what the doctor ordered!
Visa Requirements
Souvenir passports stamps can be obtained from the Airport Information desk.
Along with the United Kingdom, Ireland and the Channel Islands, The Isle of Man is part of the Common Travel Area (CTA). There are no passport controls when travelling between areas in the CTA and all air and sea connections to IOM originate from within the zone.
If you’re already inside the CTA, you’re free to visit IOM.
There is no immigration control at the Isle of Man Airport but for those who would like to have a souvenir passport stamp, one can be obtained from the friendly lady at the airport information desk.
Getting There
The view of the Isle of Man from my Aer Lingus flight.
Air
Isle of Man Airport (IATA: IOM), also known as Ronaldsway Airport, is one of two gateways to the Isle of Man, with the other being the Isle of Man Sea Terminal in Douglas.
The airport is located in the southeast corner of the island, near to Castletown, and a short 11 km (6.9 mi) drive southwest of the capital, Douglas.
There’s no immigration control at the airport, with all arrivals originating from airports located within the Common Travel Area. Daily flight departures can be viewed here, while arrivals can be viewed here.
The following airlines provide services to/ from IOM:
Regular public buses connect the airport to Douglas (30 mins/ £2.70), Castletown, Peel, St. John’s and Port Erin. Taxi’s are also available outside the arrivals hall.
Sea
The Isle of Man Steam Packet Company Ferries connect the island to ports in the UK and Ireland.
Located in downtown Douglas, the Isle of Man Sea Terminal is the arrival and departure point for all passenger and car ferries operating to and from the Isle of Man.
IOM Steam Packet Company Route Map
The terminal is operated by, and is the hub for, the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company, which runs year-round sailings to Heysham, and seasonal (summer) sailings to Liverpool, Belfast and Dublin.
The crossing to/ from Heysham operates up to 13 times each week with a sailing time of 3 hours 45 minutes. You can make bookings (foot passenger – from £19.50 each way) and view the current timetable on their website.
Getting Around
Public Bus
Isle of Man Bus Route Map.
Bus services on the island are operated by the government-owned Bus Vannin who provide regular services to every corner of the island.
You can view the current bus route mapon their website, which also includes a handy journey planner – Traveline. A variety of ticket options are available, including Go Explorecards, which provide unlimited travel on all bus and rail services for a period of 1, 3, 5 or 7 days.
Train
The Snaefell mountain railway conveys passengers to the loftiest point on the island – Mount Snaefell.
The Isle of Man Rail Companyoffers four different rail journey’s, all of which provide a fascinating way of exploring the island.
IOM Railways Map. Source: IOM Railways.
Three heritage rail lines allow visitors to explore a large part of the island:
The Manx Electric Railway (blue line on the map) connects Douglas with the northern town of Ramsay.
During its meander along the east coast, the Manx Electric Railway passes through the junction town of Laxey, from where you can switch to the Snaefell Mountain Railway (light green line on the Map) which winds its way up to the island’s highest point, Mount Snaefell, which lies at 620 metres (2,037 feet) above sea level.
Running south from Douglas, the Steam Railway (redline on the map) passes through Castletown before terminating in Port Erin on the southwest coast.
The 4th service offered by the company is the novel Douglas Bay Horse Tramway (dark greenline on the map), which is covered in the Douglas section of this guide.
Details from a Manx Electric Railway carriage.
Rental Car
My rental car on the Isle of Man.
While public transport on the island is frequent and comprehensive, the best way to maximise your time is with a rental car, especially if you plan on exploring every nook and cranny.
Several Car Rental Agents can be found at IOM Airport. I hired a car through Mylchreests who are the local agent for Avis and Budget. Daily rates for a compact car start at £45 with a weekly rate for the same vehicle starting at £166.
All Isle of Man number plates feature the ‘Legs of Mann’.
For those arriving by sea, most companies can arrange advance delivery of vehicles to the Sea Terminal. The IOM Visitors website has a full listing of all agents on the island.
That’s the end of my Isle of Man Travel Guide.
Safe Travels!
Darren
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During my many years of living in Europe, I had the opportunity to explore most parts of the continent, however, there was one small stone which always remained un-turned, a country I’d passed many times without setting foot in – the Principality of Andorra. And so, on a recent trip to Europe, I took the opportunity to make the pilgrimage up into the Pyrenees mountains to explore this tiny alpine jewel, the world’s only predominately Catalan-speaking nation.
The flag of Andorra, a vertical tri-colour of blue, yellow, and red with the coat of arms of Andorra in the centre.
According to the constitution, Andorra is a Principality that retains the President of France and the Bishop of Urgell (Spain) as co-princes and heads of state.
The backbone of Andorra, the Pyrenees mountain range separates the Iberian Peninsula from the rest of Europe.
Located off the standard tourist trail, high in the southern Pyrenees mountains, wedged between two neighbouring giants (France and Spain), Andorra is a small country in terms of area and population (77,281) and one which is often overlooked on travel itineraries.
The white ski slopes of the Vallnord resort cut a clear path across the mountain.
Those travelers who do make the journey are rewarded with spectacular hiking trails, superb skiing, gourmet food, duty free shopping and time spent in picturesque towns and villages surrounded by towering, majestic peaks. Andorra is a stunningly beautiful, fascinating destination – one that should not be missed.
Location
Andorra is a landlocked Principality, located high up in the southern peaks of the Pyrenees Mountains, bounded by France to the north and east and by Spain to the south and west. With a total land area of 468 km2 (181 sq mi), Andorra is the sixth-smallest nation in Europe. The country consists predominantly of rugged mountains and has an average elevation of 1,996 metres (6,549 ft).
The towering Pyrenees mountain range, Andorra.
History
Originally built as a manor house, the 16th century “Casa de la Vall” previously housed the General Council (Parliament of Andorra).
In historical terms, Andorra as a country is a relic from a by-gone era when Europe was divided up into thousands of small sovereign nations – each no bigger than an average modern city. Over the centuries, this patchwork of micro-nations was unified into the larger nations which exist today.
Andorra, in its current form, has existed for more than a thousand years, with its independence accredited to the French King – Charlemagne – who took control of the country from Muslim invaders in AD 803. His son, Louis the Pious (aka Louis the Fair, and Louis the Debonaire), gave the Andorran’s a charter of liberties. In AD 843, Louis’ son, Charles II, gave control of Andorra to theCounts of Urgell (from nearby La Seu d’Urgell – now in Spain). The Counts passed control of Andorra to the Bishops of Urgell.
In the late 13th century a quarrel between the Spanish Bishops of Urgell and the French heirs to the Countship of Urgell led to Andorra’s dual allegiance to two princes – the Spanish Bishop of Urgell and the French head of state, each of whom received an annual payment of a token tribute.
Andorra Today
The New General Council – the parliament of Andorra.
This feudal system of government remained intact until March of 1993, when Andorrans voted to establish a new constitution that officially declared the country a “parliamentary co-principality“. A constitution was adopted that greatly reduced the power of the co-princes and established separate executive, legislative, and judicial branches of government. Andorra subsequently joined the United Nations in 1993.
Today, tourism is the main economic activity of the country with financial services also playing an important role. Andorra has the status of a ‘tax haven’ and, like Switzerland, has its own banking secrecy laws.
The busy land border between Spain and Andorra.
Because of the lack of customs duties and low or nonexistent taxes, Andorra has become an important international centre of retail trade and is a popular duty-free shopping destination for French and Spanish day-trippers. Due to its ‘duty free shopping paradise’ reputation, Spanish customs officials normally perform thorough searches on anyone entering Spain from Andorra.
Currency and Costs
Andorra Euro coins. Image Source: fleur-de-coin.com
Currency
An interesting fact: Prior to 2002, Andorra never had its own official currency. Historically it used the French franc and Spanish peseta but when they were replaced in 2002 by the Euro (€), Andorra adopted that currency.
While Andorra is not a member of the European Union, it has an agreement with the EU to use the Euro (€) as its official currency, and to mint it’s own Euro coins.
Costs
Due to its duty-free status, travelling in Andorra is reasonably cheap (for Europe)! My comfortable room at the decent (mid-range) Hotel Festa Brava cost me €54 per night, while breakfast in a nearby cafe cost me less than €10. Car rental through Goldcarcost me €22 per day (on a multiple day rental) while a main course in a restaurant (with a glass of wine) can cost as little as €10.
A reasonable daily budget allowance for Andorra would be:
Budget: €80
Mid-range: €80-175
Top-end: €175+
Sights
Andorra La Vella
A centre-piece of the old town, Sant Esteve church was built in the 11th-12th century.
Perched high in the eastern Pyrenees at an elevation of 1,023 metres (3,356 feet) above sea level, Andorra La Vella has the distinction of being the highest capital city in Europe. With a population of 22,000, the capital has the feel of a large, relaxed town and is compact enough to explore on foot in one day, with most of the sights concentrated in the old town and most of the shops in the adjacent new town.
Old Town
Sights within the old town include the historic Casa de la Vall, which was built in 1580 as a manor house for a rich family but was later converted for use by the General Council (Parliament of Andorra). In 2011, parliament relocated to the modern (adjacent) General Council building and the Casa was converted into a museum.
“Transparency” by Spanish artist Samantha Bosque.
On the wall of a nearby building is the Trompe l’oeil masterpiece “Transparency“, which was painted by the Spanish artist Samantha Bosque. The painting is an exact facsimile of the square which is located behind the building – hence the title. If you get the angle correct, you can perfectly align the left side of the painting with the top of the mountain in the background.
New Town
“7 Poetes” by Jaume Plensa.
Just below the new parliament building, in Plaça Lidia Armengol Vila is “7 Poetes“, a striking art installation by the Spanish artist Jaume Plensa. The seated seven figures (which are illuminated at night) represent the seven parishes that form Andorra and aim to offer an air of calm and reflection amid the hustle and bustle of the city.
“La Noblesse du Temps” by Salvador Dalí.
How many cities in the world can claim to have their own Salvador Dalí sculpture sitting on the sidewalk? Located in the new part of town, in Placa de la Rotonda (on the banks of the raging Valira river), is La Noblesse du Temps, a 16 foot bronze clock which has been created using Dalí’s unmistakable sinewy, surreal style. The sculpture symbolises the passage of time and features an elongated clock face on a tree trunk, topped by a crown. Ironically, the Cartier watch shop is located in close proximity.
The “Pont de Paris” in downtown Andorra La Vella.
A short walk from Dalí’s surreal installation is the much more sober Pont de Paris, a cable bridge which crosses the (always raging) Gran ValiraRiver.
Outside Andorra La Vella
The majestic Pyrenees Mountain Range, Andorra
The one excellent highway in Andorra takes you from the Spanish border to the French border in under an hour, passing through the urban centres of Sant Julia de Loria, Andorra La Vella, Encamp, Canillo then onto the French border town of Pas de la Casa.
A view of the picturesque Vall d’Incles.
While the drive is scenic (especially towards the French border), it’s the many side roads which lead off the highway, that offer the most spectacular scenery.
Western Andorra
A display of opulent cigarette boxes at the Museu del Tabak in Sant Julià de Lòria.
If you’re arriving from Spain, your introduction to Andorra will be the pleasant town of Sant Julia de Loria (elev: 935 m), which offers plenty of tourist services such as accommodation, restaurants and a beautiful old town.
Am antique cigarette-making machine at the Museu del Tabac.
In the heart of the old town is the engaging Museu del Tabac,which is housed in an old tobacco factory and tells the story of the local tobacco industry.
A display at the Museu del Tabac.
Prior to tourism and financial services, tobacco was an important industry for Andorra, with cigarettes being sold (and smuggled) into France and Spain.
The magnificent scenery on route CS-140 as I wind my way up to the “Coll de la Gallina” mountain pass.
South of Sant Julia de Loria a scenic side road, CS-140, winds 12 km up into the high heavens, climbing 975 metres to the mountain pass of Coll de la Gallina (elev: 1,910 m), which forms the border between Andorra and Spain. This route features steep gradients and forms stage 9 of the Tour de France and is the most popular form of punishmentfor visiting cyclists and Tour de France wannabe’s.
Route CS-142, a narrow, steep, one-lane and sometimes icy road which climbs up to the “Coll de la Gallina”.
As you climb, the CS-140 becomes the CS-142, at which point the road becomes very narrow, one-way, with steep drop-offs and no guard rails. This is not a route for less-confident drivers and on the day I drove it, there was the added challenge presented by patches of black, slippery ice.
“Road Closed Ahead”. The road on the Spanish side of the “Coll de la Gallina” was impassable.
To top it off, once I reached the pass, the road on the Spanish side was impassable, laying buried beneath metres of snow and ice. My only option was to do a U-turn and proceed back down the mountain, travelling the wrong way on the narrow, one way road. Luckily, I was the only fool on the road so I didn’t encounter any oncoming traffic.
The River Os cascades down a narrow gorge alongside route CG6.
Just north of Sant Julia de Loria, route CG6 follows the course of the narrow river – Rui d’Os – which roars down from higher elevations through a tight, winding gorge. The road connects the main highway to the Spanish border (immediately noticeable due to the sudden deterioration in road quality) then continues onto the sleepy Spanish town of Os de Civis. An interesting fact regarding ‘Os’ is that it is cut-off from the rest of Spain and is only accessible through Andorra along this route.
Pyrenees Mountain Range, Andorra.
While on route CG6, you’ll pass through the village of Bixessarri, where you have the option of taking two narrow, winding roads which switch-back their way up either side of the valley formed by the River Os.
The tiny chapel of Sant Joan d’Aixàs sits atop a ridge which offers panoramic views in all directions.
Route CS-112 climbs up to a ridge which is topped with a small chapel, Sant Joan d’Aixàs, from which you have magnificent views of all of southern Andorra. Climbing up even higher on the other side of the valley, route CS-111 is an alternative route to the pass at Coll de la Gallina.
The very narrow (but two way) route CS-112.
Northern Andorra
The picturesque village of Ordino.
From Andorra La Vella route CG3 follows a gentle valley north to the junction town of La Massana, before branching off to the historic town of Ordino. The town was first mentioned in documents in the 9th century and is today considered the cultural centre of Andorra.
Andorran drivers are adept at driving at speed through tight lane ways such as this one in Ordino.
The old town was constructed during the 12-13th centuries with narrow, cobbled, pedestrian-friendly streets. Andorrans are use to driving in tight spaces so it was no surprise to see drivers zipping through the narrow lane-ways.
The narrow lane ways of Ordino village.
Ordino is a popular base for people skiing in the Vallnord region and offers an abundance of accommodation and restaurant options.
The Església de Sant Martí de la Cortinada was originally built in the 11th century.
Continuing along CG3 north of Ordino, you’ll soon reach the village of La Cortinada, whose main claim is the beautiful Església de Sant Martí de la Cortinada, a stone church which was originally built in the 11th-12th century and later rebuilt in the 17th century.
A panoramic view from the Arcalis ski resort (the road tunnel can be seen below).
Continuing up the valley, CG3 becomes CS-380 at which point the road commences a steep climb through numerous hair-pin turns then enters a tunnel before arriving at the chairlift station of the VallnordArcalis ski resort.
The Vallnordski resort consists of three resorts which are (from north to south):
Arcalis
Arinsal
Pal
Arinsal and Pal are linked by chairlift while Arcalis is a separate resort.
The historic village of Pal.
Back at the junction town of La Massana, route CG4 provides access to the linked ski resorts of Arinsal and Pal. En-route to the Pal resort, the road passes through the quaint and historic village of the same name. With oodles of charm and a population of just 235 souls, Pal is worth exploring before you start the climb up the mountain to the Pal ski resort.
“No Through Road” – the road on the Spanish side of Port de Cabús was impassable.
Just when you think the road couldn’t possibly climb any higher, CG4 keeps climbing up to the mountain pass of Port de Cabús (elev: 2302 m) which marks the border with Spain. An (un-maintained) road continues into Spain but during my visit it was completely impassable due to a thick covering of snow and ice.
A novel way of walking the dogs at the Pal ski resort.
In the village of Erts, CG5 branches off of CG4, providing access to the lofty Arinsal ski resort. This is yet another spectacular alpine drive offering more incredible views. The windy road climbs through numerous hair-pin turns before terminating at the Arinsal resort (elev: 1900 m).
More incredible views – this time from the Arinsal ski resort.
Eastern Andorra
Majestic peaks line route CG2 near the French border.
The highway east of Andorra La Vella (CG2) passes through the busy towns of Encamp and Canillo then onto a junction where you have the choice of taking the scenic high road (yes please!) or the (subterranean) low road through a tunnel to the border town of Pas de la Casa. The views from the mountain pass on the high road are jaw-dropping and should not be missed. If you’re in a rush, the tunnel is much faster but far less scenic.
“A window onto the world” – a view from route CG2 on the way to Pas de la Casa.
Despite its location in a stunningly beautiful valley, surrounded on all sides by towering peaks, Pas de la Casa is essentially one large duty-free shopping centre for French day-tripper’s. The border is formed by the narrow Ariège river which flows through the town centre. Giant petrol stations on the outskirts of town are always busy with French motorists who cross to fill up at prices far below those in France.
A stone bridge crosses the River Incles in the pretty Vall d’Incles.
A worthwhile side trip in this part of Andorra is along the narrow country lane which follows the River Incles (Riu d’Incles) into the picturesque Vall d’Incles. The turn-off from the highway is between the villages of El Tartar and Soldeu after which you drive on a one lane (but two way) road into the charming valley.
The picture-postcard perfect Vall d’Incles.
Accommodation
With more than 300 properties, Andorra offers an abundance of accommodation options from cheap hostels to 5-star hotels. Accommodation can be found throughout the country but is concentrated in the capital. A good place to start your search is the accommodation directory on the Visit Andorra website.
While in Andorra la Vella, I stayed at the mid-range Hotel Festa Brava, which offers reasonably priced (€54 per night), comfortable rooms in the heart of the old town. From the hotel it’s a very short walk to the restaurants, cafes and bars of the old town, the main shopping street and most tourist attractions. As with everywhere else in the capital, car parking spaces are non-existent but the hotel has an arrangement with the parking garage at the nearby Centre Comercial Pyrénées, which allows guests to park overnight at a 50% discount.
Eating Out
Artwork at the Papanico restaurant.
Andorra is home to about 400 restaurants, and being surrounded by France and Spain – two of the world’s foremost gourmet destinations – there’s no shortage of fine cuisine on offer, especially in the capital. Eating fine quality food in Andorra does not mean emptying your wallet with humble cafes serving delicious ‘fixed menu’ three-course meals for less than €15. The Eating page on the Visit Andorra website provides an overview of Andorran cuisine and a restaurant directory.
My go-to place for breakfast was the Cafeteria La Terrassa, which is located on the third floor of the Centre Comercial Pyrénées (shopping mall) in downtown Andorra la Vella. Open 7 days a week, the cafeteria offers sweet and savoury crepes, fine french pastries, freshly squeezed (Valencia) orange juice and wonderfully strong coffee.
My favourite bar in Andorra La Vella was the lively Hostal & Pub Barri Antic which is located opposite the Parliament building in the old town. The pub, which is a favourite haunt for anyone on a biking trip to Andorra, offers quaffable craft beers and wonderful cocktails which are always served with olives or freshly popped popcorn, while upstairs, the hostal offers very cheap (€25), tastefully decorated rooms. In the early evening, outdoor tables fill the narrow lane-way and are always abuzz with locals and tourists enjoying the ambience. From here, most restaurants are a short stroll, making this an ideal place to start your evening out in the old town!
For dinner in the old town, the very memorableRestaurant Versailles offers gourmet food, impeccable service and a very agreeable ambience. I arrived without a reservation and was seated immediately. The friendly owner then presented me with a glass of a Cuvée on the house and some olives, then provided a comprehensive explanation of the menu. I ordered steak, which was served with mashed potatoes and fresh, wild asparagus – it tasted divine!
Delicious, good value meals can be found in many restaurants such as the Restaurant La Casa del Boeuf.
Nearby, the Restaurant La Casa del Boeuf offers decent French cuisine which is prepared by the friendly French chef – Joel. Daily special menus allow diners to choose one of four main courses which are served with a glass of house wine for just €10.50! The ‘Steak-frites‘ with red wine is highly recommended and (at €10.50) a real bargain.
Visa Requirements
A souvenir passport stamp, ‘Estampa Turista’, is available from the immigration office at the border.
The visa policy of Andorra is wonderfully simple – every passport holder on this planet is free to enter without needing a visa! However, since the country is only accessible via the Schengen countries of Spain or France, entrance is not possible without entering the Schengen area first and the Schengen visa rules can therefore be regarded to apply de-facto.
If you are travelling on a passport which requires a Schengen visa, you should know that because Andorra is not part of the Schengen area, a multiple entry visa is required to re-enter the Schengen area when leaving Andorra.
Immigration Formalities
Upon entering Andorra, there are no immigration formalities. If you wish to obtain a souvenir passport stamp, you can do so at any of the border posts.
Getting There
An Andorra Welcome Sign.
Air
Because of its impossibly mountainous terrain, there is no airport in Andorra. The two de-facto airports serving the principality are Spain’s Barcelona Airport and France’s Toulouse airport. Regular daily bus connections operate between these gateways and the bus station in Andorra La Vella, a journey of approximately 3 hours from either city. For details on the buses please refer to the ‘Getting There – Bus‘ section below.
Road
The only highway in Andorra cuts diagonally through the country from the Spanish to the French border.
Due mainly to the mountainous nature of Andorra, there is only one road entering the principality from France and only one (widely-used) road entering Andorra from Spain.
Almost all entry into the country happens at one of these two points which can be very congested when exiting Andorra as Spanish and French customs officials perform thorough checks on all the happy shoppers leaving the duty-free paradise that is Andorra.
Bus
The modern and efficient bus station in Andorra La Vella.
Comfortable coaches provide regular connections from Andorra to both Spain and France.Regular international buses connect Andorra to destinations in Spain and France. Following is a list of current operators (with links to online booking pages):
Spain
Direct Bus: Offers 10 daily return services between Andorra and Barcelona Airport – with some services also stopping at Barcelona (Sants) bus station. Timetables, fares and bookings available here.
ANDBUS (Andorra By Bus): Offers 7 daily return services between Andorra and Barcelona Airport. Timetables, fares and bookings available here.
Montmantell Bus: Offers 14 daily return services between Andorra and the nearby Spanish town of La Seu d’Urgell. The current timetable can be viewed here.
Montmantell Bus: Offers 6 daily return services between Andorra and the Spanish city of LLeida. The current timetable can be viewed here.
Montmantell Bus: Offers 1 daily return service between Andorra and the Spanish coastal region of Costa Daurada (i.e. Tarragona). The current timetable can be viewed here.
Comfortable coaches provide regular connections from Andorra to both Spain and France.
France
ANDBUS (Andorra By Bus): Offers 3 daily return services between Andorra and Toulouse Airport. Timetables, fares and bookings available here.
Montmantell Bus: Offers 2 daily return services between Andorra and the nearby French town of L’Hospitalet. The current timetable can be viewed here.
Smaller, faster minibuses also operate between Andorra and Barcelona.
Getting Around
Roads in Andorra are generally in excellent condition.
Bus
The national bus route map is available on the Interurbana website.
Public buses throughout Andorra are operated by the Cooperativa Interurbana Andorrana, providing regular connections between Andorra La Vella and the major urban centres. There are currently six routes in operation, with comprehensive route plans and timetables available from their website along with faresand details on season passes.
The company provides a handy route map (displayed above) which can downloaded, printed then folded to carry in your pocket.
Taxi
Taxis can be found on ranks in Andorra La Vella and are reasonably priced with a trip from the bus station to the old town costing about €5.
Rental Car
Exploring the Vallnord region in my rental car from Goldcar rental.
Many of the most scenic routes in Andorra are not covered by public transport. If you wish to maximise your time and fully explore this magnificent principality then hiring a rental car is the best option.
The national highway winds its way across Andorra, connecting the Principality to Spain and France.
If you’re staying in the capital, you’ll find almost no free parking, but ample municipal parking stations which charge around €28 for overnight parking. Most hotels have ‘validation’ arrangements with their nearest parking station, saving guests around 50%.
The Andorra license plate on my rental car.
If you’re driving into France or Spain, its worth noting that fuel is cheaper in Andorra (€0.20 cents per litre cheaper than France and €0.10 cents per litre cheaper than Spain) and this is evident by the number of French-registered cars filling up at the many service stations on the Andorran side of the French border.
In the distance, the ski slopes of the Vallnord resort looks like a giant white snake slivering along the side of the mountain.
For professional service and competitive rates, I would recommend using Goldcar Rental whose office is a short walk from the main bus station.
Welcome to the taste2travel Åland Islands Travel Guide!
Date Visited: May 2018
Introduction
Until recently, I had no idea of the existence of the Åland Islands – an autonomous, demilitarised, Swedish-speaking territory of Finland. After visiting them, I have become a fan but whenever I mention them, people have no idea where in the world I’m talking about.
Unlike other European territories, such as Denmark’s Faroe Islands or the UK’s Jersey, Guernsey or Isle of Man, the Åland Islands remain well off the radar.
Souvenir Åland Islands flags on sale in Mariehamn.
The only people who seem to be aware of Åland’s existence are its neighbours – the Swedes and Finns, who arrive in droves every summer to relax and chill-out on one of the many peaceful islands which can be found throughout the archipelago.
Åland islands Welcome sign.
The territory has its own government, produces its own stamps, issues its own passports (although, unlike other territories, the passport of the Åland Islands does not indicate a different nationality, with all holders being Finnish nationals), has its own internet top-level domain (.AX) and its own vehicle license plate.
The Åland Islands number plate on my rental car.
While Åland is an archipelago of more than 26,000 islands (yes, you’ve read that correctly), only 65 islands are inhabited. The mainland is known locally as Fasta Åland (“Main Island”) and its here you’ll find 90% of the population living on 70% of the total land area and its the focus of this travel guide.
There are an estimated 15,000 Roe deer on the Åland Islands.
If you’re looking to visit a place well off the standard tourist trail, a destination offering a unique culture, centuries of history, wildlife and beautiful nature then the Åland Islands are a place to add to your bucket list.
Location
Åland Islands
Located like a stepping stone between Sweden and Finland, the Åland Islands are an archipelago in the Baltic Sea. Fasta Åland is separated from the coast of Sweden by 38 kilometres (24 miles) of open water to the west. In the east, the Åland archipelago is contiguous with the Finnish Archipelago Sea.
Typical Åland landscape.
This autonomous territory lies at the entrance to the strategically important Gulf of Bothnia, the northern arm of the Baltic sea which separates Sweden from Finland.
The flag of the Åland Islands (centre) surrounded by the flags of its all important, powerful neighbours – Sweden and Finland.
History
Displays at the Åland Museum detail the history of the islands.
The first settlers arrived on the Åland Islands more than 6000 years ago, after the islands had begun to re-emerge from the sea following the end of the last ice age. Both Stone Age and Bronze Agepeople inhabited the archipelago, obtaining food by hunting seals and birds, fishing, and gathering plants.
During the Middle ages, Kastelholm Castle played a key role in the expansion of the Swedish Empire.
Due to its strategic location between Sweden and Finland, Åland was an important harbour and trading centre during the Viking age, and evidence has been found of six fortresses from that time. The islands were Christianised during the 12th century by Swedish missionaries and later became a part of the Swedish Empire, which exercised territorial control over much of the Baltic region during the 17th and early 18th centuries.
The walls of Bomarsund fortress were constructed using giant hexagonal-shaped granite blocks.
In September of 1809, following Russia’s victory over Sweden in the Finnish war, Sweden signed the Treaty of Fredrikshamn surrendering control of the Åland Islands, along with Finland.
The Russians then incorporated Åland into the larger, semi-autonomous Grand Duchy of Finland (the predecessor to modern Finland).
During the treaty negotiations, the Swedes failed to secure a provision from the Russians that the islands would never be fortified, which was important to the Swedes as the islands lie close to the Port of Stockholm.
Russia began fortification in the 1830’s, with the building of the gigantic Bomarsund fortress in Sund, which was then destroyed in 1854 during the Crimean War by Anglo-French troops.
The coast of Sweden is just 38 kilometres from Degersand beach.
Following Russia’s February Revolution in 1917, Finland declared independence from the Russian Empire. At this time, the Åland Islanders worked towards having their territory ceded to Sweden, their historical motherland.
During this dispute, a petition was signed by 95% of Ålanders who favoured secession from Finland and integration with Sweden. For the next four years, Sweden and Finland disputed the issue until in 1921, when Åland was given its status as an autonomous, demilitarised and neutral province within the Republic of Finland by a decision of the League of Nations.
On the 9th of June, 1922, the Ålanders elected a parliament, and this day is now celebrated as “Åland Autonomy Day“.
Although Åland joined the EU along with Finland in 1995, it was granted a number of exemptions, including duty-free tax laws that allowed the essential ferry services between the islands and mainland Finland and Sweden to continue operating profitably.
Today Åland is a Swedish-speaking enclave within Finland with Ålanders being more aware (and more interested) in events in Stockholm than Helsinki.
Flag
The flag of the Åland Islands.
In 1954, Åland received its own flag, which is a Swedish flag over-layed with a red cross.
The flag of the Åland Islands is a Swedish flag over-layed with a red cross.
Why a red cross? While today, blue and white are the Finnish colours, previously red and yellow (from the Finnish coat of arms) were used to symbolise Finland.
The flag of the Åland Islands flying outside parliament in Mariehamn.
Money & Costs
The Euro is the official currency of the Åland Islands.
Money
While the official currency of the Åland Islands is the Euro (€), the Swedish Krona is unofficially accepted by most businesses.
ATM’s (labelled as “OTTO“) are available in Mariehamn and can be found outside the four bank branches on the main shopping street, Torggatan.
Costs
What kind of daily travel budget do you need for the Åland Islands? Despite being tax-free, travelling on the Åland Islands is slightly more expensive than in neighbouring Sweden or Finland. As a rough guide:
Budget: €125
Mid-range: €125-250
Top-end: €250+
Philately
Maritime themes are popular subjects on Åland stamps.
Besides issuing its own passports, the Åland Islands also issues their own stamps which are popular with collectors worldwide. About sixteen sets of stamps are issued each year by Åland Post and can be purchased online via their website or from the main Post Office in Mariehamn. Being a maritime country, common themes include ships, fish and seascapes.
Åland Island stamps can be purchased from the main Post Office in Mariehamn.
Maypoles
Maypole at the Jan Karlsgården Open-Air Museum.
While travelling around Åland, it’s hard to miss the giant Maypoles which loom on the horizon and are a centre-piece of every village.
Diagram of a typical Åland Islands Maypole.
Despite their English name (the poles are known in Swedish as Mid-summer poles), they are decorated and raised as part of the all-important mid-summer festivities which take place each year at the time of the SummerSolstice (around the 19th-25th of June).
A Maypole painted in the colours of the Åland flag being prepared for the upcoming mid-summer festivities.
The poles, which are painted in bright colours and decorated with green leaves and flowers, are an ancient symbol of fertility and greenery and previously served as a tribute to the sun. The poles remain in place all year round until they are lowered and re-decorated in time for the next solstice.
Red, Red Everywhere
Almost all wooden buildings on the Åland Islands have been coated in ‘Falu Red’ paint.
Most houses, structures (and all windmills) on Åland are painted the same red colour, and for good reason. The paint, which is called ‘Falu Red’, contains a pigment which is derived from ‘red soil’, which is a by-product of the copper mining process.
Seeing (Falu) red everywhere on the Åland Islands.
The pigment gets its name from a well-known Swedish mine at Falun, in the province of Dalarna. It was discovered that the minerals in ‘red soil’ help preserve wood from rot, so it was turned into a weather-resistant paint and applied to buildings all over Scandinavia.
There are many windmills on the Åland Islands – all of them painted in ‘Falu Red’.
Sightseeing
There are just a handful of sites to visit on Åland with the quiet capital, Mariehamn, offering a couple of worthwhile museums and the municipality of Sund offering a medieval castle (Kastelholm Castle) and a destroyed Russian fortress (Bomarsund). All municipalities feature at least one imposing, historical church and a Maypole or two.
The landscapes and seascapes are the real attraction on the islands and it’s these that draw the Swedish and Finnish tourists each year.
Mariehamn
St. George church in Mariehamn.
Named after the Empress of Russia, Mariehamn is the centre of Åland and home to nearly half of the territories population (30,000). Feeling more like a sleepy village than a capital, Mariehamn is home to the Åland Parliament, which lies on the one small shopping street (Torggatan), where you’ll also find the banks, post office, restaurants, café’s and the Åland Museum & Åland Art Museum.
A display at the Åland museum in Mariehamn.
Located across the road from Parliament, the Åland Museum traces the history of the islands from prehistoric times up until the present day while the Art Museum houses a permanent collection of local art as well as interesting temporary exhibitions.
A photographic collage of Ålanders at the Åland art museum in Mariehamn.
Also in town, near to the ferry docks at the West harbour (Västerhamn), is the impressive Åland Maritime Museum, which offers a comprehensive history of the islands’ maritime heritage. Åland has a very deep-rooted tradition of seafaring, and this beautifully presented museum is the perfect place to get a sense of its maritime history.
A display at the Åland Maritime museum in Mariehamn.
Usually docked behind the museum is the four-mast barque Pommern, which was built in Glasgow in 1903 and was used to carry grain from Australia (Spencer Gulf) to harbours in England or Ireland until the start of World War II. At the time of my visit the Pommern had been moved slightly upriver awaiting completion of a new museum dock which was under construction.
Outside Mariehamn
From Mariehamn, an excellent network of roads crosses the mainland connecting the capital to the following municipalities:
Jomala
Finström
Lemland
Saltvik
Hammarland
Sund
Eckerö
Geta
Vårdö
Lumparland
Sund
Of these municipalities, the highlight for tourists is Sund which is home to the two main sights on Åland; – Kastelholm Castle and Bomarsund Fortress.
Kastelholm Castle
During the Middle ages, Kastelholm Castle played a key role in the expansion of the Swedish Empire.
The main tourist attraction outside of Mariehamn, Kastelholm Castle was constructed in the 14th century, originally on a small island surrounded by moats filled with water and planted with several rows of poles.
During the Middle Ages, the castle played a key role in consolidating Swedish authority throughout the Baltic region. The castle was gutted and ruined in 1745. Recently the castle has been renovated and is now an important part of the Åland tourist circuit in Åland.
A farm building and windmill at the Jan Karlsgården Outdoor Museum.
Next-door to the castle is the Jan Karlsgården Outdoor Museum which includes many 19th century Åland farm houses which have been relocated here from different parts of the archipelago.
The museum contains twenty different types of buildings, providing the visitor with a comprehensive view of the life and building traditions that existed on Åland at the time.
Bomarsund Fortress
Only partial pieces of the impressive walls which once surrounded Bomarsund fortress remain in place today.
After Sweden lost the Finnish War (1808–09) to Russia, the Russians took control of the Åland Islands and in 1830 started construction on the immense Bomarsund fortress.
The fortress was built in accordance with the orders of Emperor Nicholas I and was constructed by a small army of indentured labourers from various cultural backgrounds across the Russian empire (their separate cemeteries are located nearby).
A town, Gamla Skarpans, was built and another settlement, Nya Skarpans, was established inside the fortress. However, the fortress, designed for 5000 men and 500 cannons, was never finished because in 1854 during the Crimean War English and French troops invaded and blew it up.
Today, all that remains are fragments of the immense walls – all of which were constructed using uniquely carved hexagonal-shaped granite blocks.
The Sund church dates from medieval times.
Also in Sund is the impressive, medieval era (14th century), Sund church which is dedicated to John the Baptist and is the largest church on the Åland Islands.
Hammarland
Originally built in the 13th century, Hammarland church, dedicated to Saint Catherine of Alexandria.
In the municipality of Hammarland, you’ll find the impressive stone, medieval-era Hammarland church which is dedicated to Saint Catherine of Alexandria. Home to the largest cemetery on the Åland Islands, the church was originally built in the 13th century but later destroyed by fire, it was then totally reconstructed in the 1830’s.
Saltvik
The factory shop at the Taffel Potato Chip factory.
While driving through the municipality of Saltvik, you’ll pass the Taffel Potato Chip factory, which includes a shop where you can buy discounted snacks. A perfect stop for hungry travelers!
Finström
The Stallhagen Brewery offers tours, beer tastings and superb food.
In the municipality of Finström, you’ll find Godby – the 2nd largest town (pop: 1,300) in Åland. Located a short drive west of Godby on route 4 is the Stallhagen Brewery(see the ‘Eating out‘ section below for more detail), where you can organise a tour of the brewery. The food and beer here is not to be missed!
Vårdö
The medieval-era Vårdö church.
The island of Vårdö is reached by a short cable-ferry from neighbouring Sund. This is the end of the main road network with travel to islands further east requiring a longer ferry journey.
Besides lots of rural scenes and beautiful seascapes, Vårdö church is a highlight of a visit to this sleepy island. The church is dedicated to the apostle Matthias and was built from stone in the 15th century.
My rental car on a Cable ferry to Vårdö island.
Eckerö
Eckerö church is dedicated to St. Lawrence.
The most western municipality, the highlights of Eckerö are its impressive church (first built in 1280 and dedicated to St. Lawrence) and Degersand, the most beautiful sand beach on the Åland Islands where you have accommodation options.
Located on the south coast of Eckerö, Degersand is the most beautiful sand beach on the Åland Islands.
Lumparland
The steeple of Lumparland church, the oldest surviving wooden church in the Åland islands.
Lumparland is the smallest municipality on mainland Åland, supporting a population of 396. The Church of Lumparland, dedicated to St. Andrew, is the oldest surviving wooden church in Åland, dating back to the 1720’s.
The red circle indicates the body of water known as the Lumparn, a 9 km wide meteor impact crater. Source: somerikko.net
Lumparland borders the eastern edge of a body of water known as the Lumparn, a billion-year-old, 9 km wide meteorimpact crater. I’m glad I wasn’t around to witness that!
Accommodation
My comfortable room at the Hotel Arkipelag in Mariehamn.
There are many accommodation options on the Åland Islands from deluxe hotels to camping grounds and everything else in between, all of which can be found on the official VisitÅland.com website.
I stayed on the waterfront in Mariehamn at the Hotel Arkipelag which was wonderful. The hotel offers spacious, stylish rooms with harbour views, an excellent breakfast buffet (which always featured a gourmet selection of fine Åland produce), a bar and casino and everything else you would expect from a four star hotel.
The Australian flag flew outside the Hotel Arkipelag for the duration of my stay.
One thing I didn’t expect was to walk outside the hotel on my first morning and see the Australian flag fluttering in the cool, crisp breeze. The only other flags flying were those of the neighbouring Scandinavian countries and the Åland Islands. I asked the receptionist why they were flying the Australian flag and she confirmed my suspicion that it was to honour my visit. So – if you wish to stay somewhere that’ll fly your flag and leave you feeling like a VIP, then I recommend the Hotel Arkipelag.
Eating Out
The Åland Islands are one of the few places in Europe where you’ll find none of the regular international fast food restaurants. The only nod to fast food is one restaurant from the Finnish burger chain, Hesburger, who offer the ‘Double Burger’, which looks exactly like a Big Mac.
Mariehamn
Many tempting offerings to be found at Bagarstugan Café in Mariehamn.
Mariehamn is a wonderfully compact, pedestrian friendly capital and most restaurants, café’s and bars are located a short walk from each other. My go-to place while in town (and the best café I found anywhere in Åland) is the very cosy and inviting Bagarstugan Café & Vin.
Everything here is divine, from the coffee, cakes, food, service, décor and ambiance and I believe the world would be a much better place if every town had a Bagarstugan café!
Exterior of Bagarstugan café in Mariehamn.
Bagarstugan is strictly a daytime operation, however there are plenty of nocturnal dining options a few steps away. One of my favourites was the lively upstairs restaurant at Indigo Restaurant & Bar. Both the food and drinks selection were superb, with the talented bar staff able to create any cocktail one desires (the Pisco Sours were the best this side of Peru).
Located between Indigo and Bagarstugan is Dino’s Bar & Grill, which is an American-style sports bar featuring live music and a menu loaded with American classics (hamburgers, ribs etc).
Outside Mariehamn
Beer tasting at the Stallhagen Brewery.
Almost all dining/ bar options are located in Mariehamn but one worth journeying to (15 kilometres north of the capital) is the fantastic Stallhagen Brewerywhich is located a short drive west of Godby on route 4.
Stallhagen was the first micro-brewery on Åland and today produces a dozen different types of craft beers from pale ale’s to darker stouts to berry-infused (blueberry ale or raspberry stout) concoctions – all of which are very quaffable.
One of their more popular beers is Honungsöl, which includes local honey. The manager told me as a result of the popularity of this beer, Åland farmers are now increasing honey production to meet the demand from the brewery.
Home-made sausages are perfectly complimented with a selection of craft beers at Stallhagen Brewery.
The brewery restaurant produces an amazing selection of dishes which are nicely paired with different beers by the friendly, enthusiastic staff. I returned more than once for their lunch special which was home-made sausages served with mashed potatoes and sauerkraut.
This was paired with a small selection of their beers which were served in tasting glasses. By the end of my stay I had sampled their full range!
An Åland pancake paired with two different stouts at the Stallhagen brewery.
The brewery is a good place to try the famous Åland pancake which is semolina based and pairs very well with a full-bodied stout.
Visa Requirements
Being a territory of Finland, the visa policy of the Schengen area applies to the Åland Islands.
Immigration Formalities
All sea and air connections are with neighbouring Schengen members (Finland, Sweden or Estonia), hence there are no immigration checks upon arrival and no passport stamps issued.
Getting There
Air & sea routes to the Åland Islands. Source: www.Aland.com
Air
Flights to the Åland Islands arrive at the sleepy Mariehamn airport, which is located 3 kilometres (2 miles) north-west of the capital in the municipality of Jomala.
On the evening I arrived from Stockholm (on the last flight of the day), there were no taxis at the airport so I called for one using the free public phone. In the meantime, everyone else had left the terminal which left me and the security guard, who announced he was going home and left me alone inside the terminal to wait for my taxi. Crime is unheard of on the islands and the Ålanders are very laid-back and relaxed.
The following airlines provide connections with the outside world:
There are no airport bus services while a taxi from Mariehamns Taxi will cost between €15-20 to downtown.
Ferry
Most visitors to the islands arrive by sea from either Sweden, Finland or Estonia. Currently four ferry companies provide regular international services to the islands:
Buses connect Mariehamn to most parts of the ‘mainland’ and are operated by Williams Buss and Viking Lines Buss. The following routes allow visitors to reach most parts of the archipelago:
Route 1 – Is operated by Williams Buss and connects Mariehamn to Hammarland then Ekerö.
Route 2 – Is operated by Viking Lines Buss and connects Mariehamn to Godby then Geta.
Route 3 – Is operated by Viking Lines Buss and connects Mariehamn to Godby then Saltvik.
Route 4 – Is operated by Viking Lines Buss and connects Mariehamn to Godby then Sund then Vårdö.
Route 5 – Is operated by Williams Buss and connects Mariehamn to Lemland then Lumparland.
Route 6 – This circuitous route is operated by Williams Buss, connecting Mariehamn to Godby, Gölby, Emkarby, Pålsböle then back to Godby then Mariehamn.
A map showing domestic ferry routes. Source: Ålandstrafiken
There are four domestic ferry routes which are operated by Ålandstrafiken; the Northern line (Norra linjen), the Southern line (Södra linjen), the Cross line (Tvärgående linjen) and the Föglö line (Föglölinjen). You can view route information, timetablesand current fares on their website.
The Captain on the bridge of a Cable ferry on Vårdö Island.
In addition to these, a number of ‘cable ferries‘ (which run on a fixed cable) provide a connection between some of the islands.
The Cable ferries run on a submerged cable, which is strung between islands.
The Cable ferries are free of charge and run on demand (i.e. it only takes one vehicle to initiate a crossing) with one captain telling me that these state-run ferries never stop running and are hugely expensive (all that fuel!).
Crossing to Vårdö island on a cable ferry.
Taxi
A taxi in Mariehamn, nice to ride but expensive.
Mariehamns Taxi can be contacted locally on 018-10066 or from abroad on +358 18 26 000. With a flag fall of €6 and a per kilometre charge of €3, taxis are not cheap.
Rental Car
My rental car on the Åland Islands.
The best way to maximise your time on the islands is to rent a car. Many of the remote back-roads are not served by public transport and since traffic is light and the roads are (generally) in excellent condition, you can cover most of the archipelago in a few days.
Rundbergs (Tel: +358 (0) 18 525 505) are the only rental agent on the Åland Islands and are also the local representative for Europcar & Hertz. Their office is hidden away inside the ST1 service station, which is located on the waterfront in Mariehamn. You do not need to visit them as they will deliver your car to you.
Being a monoploy operator, rates are never going to be favourable and a compact car will set you back €82 per day (for multiple days hire) or €427 per week. If you wish to hire a car for just the day, they offer a special rate of €68.
Welcome to the taste2travel Faroe Islands Travel Guide!
Date Visited: May 2018
Introduction
Like its northern neighbour, Iceland, the Faroe Islands (Faroese: Føroyar) offer spectacular, eye-popping scenery and a unique travel experience far off the well-beaten, European tourist trail.
The, rugged, majestic and monumental scenery of the Faroe Islands offer excellent hiking possibilities.
A self-governing archipelago, which together with Greenland, forms a constituent part of the Kingdom of Denmark, the Faroe Islands are comprised of 18 inhabited islands with a scattered population of 50,000 (25% of whom live in the capital city of Tórshavn) and almost twice as many sheep.
Spectacular views in every direction on the Faroe Islands.
The islands are the exposed summits of deep, submerged volcanoes and are typically high and rugged with dramatic, perpendicular cliffs. The islands tend to be long and thin and are separated by narrow sounds or fjords, which are notorious for their strong currents.
The precipitous cliffs of Ritubergsnøva soar a staggering 376 metres from the Atlantic.
Like Iceland, the Faroe Islands are treeless, being composed of hard volcanic (basalt) rock which is covered by a thin layer of moraine or peat soil. During periods of heavy rainfall, the rocky islands come alive with countless dramatic, plunging waterfalls which empty directly into the sea.
A dramatic waterfall on the road to Saksun.
Thanks to frequent flights from neighbouring countries, accessing this remote archipelago is surprisingly simple while a car/ passenger ship provides weekly connections between Denmark and Iceland (see the ‘Getting There‘ section below for more details).
Faroe Islands flags on sale in Tórshavn.
Travelling around the islands is made easy by a reliable bus network which connects the major urban centres. If you wish to maximise your time and explore the more remote corners of this incredible archipelago you will either need a rental car or a good pair of hiking boots.
The endemic Faroe Islands sheep are all free-range, able to wander wherever they please in order to consume the rich bounty the island provides.
If you wish to take to the air, the only option is the helicopter service provided by Atlantic Airways (see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below for more details).
The most spectacular drives are known as ‘Buttercup’ routes and are signposted with special signs. A rental car is the best way to explore these scenic back-roads.
How long to spend on the Faroe Islands? I would recommend one week (with a rental car) which will allow you plenty of time to explore those islands connected by road and under-sea tunnels and to make side trips to islands connected by ferry (see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below for more details).
Whatever amount of time you spend, you’ll find a visit to this magical archipelago surprising and rewarding and, maybe like me, you’ll be already planning your next visit while sipping a coffee in one of the quayside cafes in Tórshavn.
Location
Tórshavn, Faroe Islands
The Faroe Islands are located in the middle of the North Atlantic Ocean at 62º latitude North (4°33′ south of the Arctic Circle), about halfway between Iceland and Norway. The overall length of the archipelago north-south is 113 kilometres, and 75 kilometres east-west.
Although located close to the Arctic Circle, the islands generally have cool summers (average temperature: 11º C) and mild winters (3º C) due to the prevailingGulf Stream.
A boat (bottom left) is dwarfed by the towering peaks which surround the Funning’s Fjord on Eysturoy Island.
History
Ancient
The ancient Althing (parliament) was first convened on the rocky point which is today the Tinganes neighbourhood in Tórshavn.
Archaeological excavations on the island of Sandoy indicate that humans were present on the Faroe Islands as early as the 3rd century AD, however these excavations do not provide any clues as to who these people were.
The first known settlers were Irish monks, who in the 6th century AD told of the “Islands of the Sheep and the Paradise of Birds”.
In the 9th century, Viking settlers – who were escaping the tyranny of Norway’s first king, Harald I – arrived on the islands from Norway, naming them Føroyar which is derived from old Norse and means Sheep Islands, which is appropriate since today the sheep population is almost double the human population.
These Norse settlers brought with them their medieval culture, which included the establishment of their Althing (parliament), at Tinganes in Tórshavn. Tórshavn still is the capital city of the Faroe Islands, and it claims to hold the oldest parliament in the world.
The name ‘Faroe’ is an old Norse word for ‘Sheep’ which are plentiful on the islands.
During the Viking age, Norwegian Kings aspired to gain control over the islands, but for many centuries the Faroese managed to fight them off. However, in the 12th century the Faroe Islands eventually became a part of the Kingdom of Norway.
In the 14th century, the Faroe Islands joined Norway into a dual monarchy with Denmark. However, when this union was succeeded by a Norwegian-Swedish union in 1814 the Faroe Islands remained under the sovereignty of the Kingdom of Denmark. Due to its remoteness, distinct language and culture, the Faroe Islands always remained autonomous.
Modern
In 1940, when German forces invaded and occupied Denmark, British forces launched “Operation Valentine” to occupy the Faroe Islands in an effort to pre-empt a German invasion. The occupation lasted until the end of the Second World War, with the last British troops leaving in 1945. During this period, the Faroese flag was officially recognized for the first time by a foreign (British) government and the Faroese exercised a greater degree of autonomy over their affairs.
Following the war, a referendum regarding independence was held and while a small majority voted in favour of independence from Denmark, a subsequent parliamentary election saw the election of a majority of members who decide to remain under Danish rule.
Nevertheless, in response to growing calls for autonomy, the Home Rule Act of the Faroe Islands was passed in 1948, cementing the Faroe Islands’ status as a self-governing territory within the Danish Realm. The Act allows for the vast majority of domestic affairs to be controlled by the Faroese government.
Salmon farming is the main industry on the Faroe Islands with huge farms occupying most of the inter-island channels.
Today fisheries and aquaculture are the basis for the production and export of high quality Faroese fish products, which constitute 95 per cent of the total income of exported goods.
Most of the fjords and channels which separate the islands are home to huge AtlanticSalmon farms, with the salmon being exported around the world. Especially popular in Sushi restaurants, fresh Faroese Salmon is available for consumption in European and U.S. restaurants just 72 hours after being harvested.
People & Sheep
A view of Tórshavn, the capital and largest city in the Faroe Islands.
The islands are home to a population of 50,000 with 25% living in the capital (Tórshavn) and the remainder living in small, scattered coastal settlements. The official languages are Faroese (most closely related to Icelandic) and Danish.
My rental car surrounded by some curious Faroese Sheep.
With an estimated population of 80,000 – the endemic and ubiquitous Faroese sheep far outnumber the human population. Faroese sheep are highly adapted to their vertical environment and can be found grazing on the highest of cliffs and on the edge of impossibly steep ledges. While exploring the islands, you’ll pass sheep grazing along the sides of all roads and on the highest of mountain passes.
The Faroese pride themselves on doing things their way and, in 2016, enterprising locals – who had became impatient waiting for Google to complete ‘Street View’ mapping of the archipelago – strapped cameras to the backs of their wandering ovine population and used them to provide a unique street view experience.
Flag
The flag of the Faroe Islands.
Like the flags of neighbouring Scandinavian countries, the flag of the Faroe islands incorporates a red Nordic cross, which is offset to the left. The red cross is fimbriated azure and is set on a white field.
The Faroe Islands flag flying in downtown Tórshavn.
The flag design closely resembles that of the Norwegian flag, with white symbolising the foam of the sea and the pure, radiant sky of the Faroe Islands. The Faroese blue and red colours are reminiscent of other Scandinavian and Nordic flags; representing the Faroe Islands’ bonds with other Nordic countries.
Currency
Faroe Islands Krona bank notes are works of art.
There are two currencies of equal value in circulation on the islands: the Faroese Króna and the Danish Krone, both of which are printed in Copenhagen by the Danmarks Nationalbank. While two types of banknotes are in circulation, only Danish coins are used.
The Faroese Króna notes are beautiful works of art, featuring a fragment of a Faroese animal on the face side and watercolour Faroese landscapes by local artist Zacharias Heinesen on the reverse side. An interesting feature is the inclusion of a mother-of-pearl security strip on the reverse side of each note.
Faroese banknotes are regarded as a foreign currency in Denmark thus they are not legal tender in there, so it’s best to spend or convert your Faroese notes prior to departing the islands.
Tunnels
A map indicating road tunnels on the Faroe Islands. Source: Wikipedia
While travelling around the Faroe Islands you will pass through many different road tunnels, some cut through mountains, while others pass under the sea. All tunnels are operated by a dedicated company – Tunnil. If you wish to download the above map, you can do so from Wikipedia.
Currently the longest tunnel on the Faroe Islands is the 6.3 km Norðoyatunnilin under-sea tunnel which connects Esturoy Island to Bordoy Island. This 2-lane, engineering marvel, reaches a depth of 150 metres below sea level and includes a sub-sea roundabout (the only roundabout beneath the Atlantic Ocean), which is very useful in the event you realise, mid-tunnel, that you forgot to buy the milk or bread and need to go back.
To keep motorists amused during the lengthy crossing, colourful light art by Faroese artist Tróndur Patursson has been installed.
Me yielding (who wouldn’t?) to an approaching truck, at the entrance of the 2-km long Hvannasundstunnilin (Hvannasund Tunnel) close to Norðdepil on the island of Borðoy.
In 2022, construction is scheduled to be completed on the biggest project of all time – the 11 km long Eysturoyartunnilin (Eysturoy Tunnel), which will also include a roundabout with two spur roads and will connect the island of Streymoy to Eysturoy, passing under the Tangafjørður (fjord).
Highlighted in red on the map above, the tunnel will not only be the longest in the Faroe Islands but the longest sub-sea road tunnel in the world.
The tunnel will shorten the travel distance from Tórshavn to Runavík from 55 kilometres (34 miles) to 17 kilometres (11 miles). The 64 minute drive will be shortened to 16 minutes. The drive from Tórshavn to Klaksvík will be shortened from 68 minutes to 36 minutes.
In terms of length, the 11 km long Eysturoy Tunnel is a minnow compared to the proposed 24 km long under-sea tunnel which will eventually join StreymoyIsland with the southernmost island of Suðuroy.
While the newer tunnels offer pleasant driving experiences complete with wide lanes and artistic light installations, many older tunnels offer a more harrowing experience.
These tunnels are normally unlit, roughly cut, one-lane, narrow passageways, on a two-way road (with one direction having priority over the other) and range in length with the longest being the tunnel on Kunoy Island which is 3 km long.
Driving through the one-lane, unlit, 3-km long Kunoy tunnel. Passing bays allow for oncoming traffic to pass.
While driving through these dark, narrow caverns you need to watch for the headlights of oncoming vehicles and, if you are required to yield, pull into one of the regular passing bays.
You need to constantly stay alert and hope that anyone coming in the other direction got the message to yield, or maybe you are required to yield, or sometimes everyone is confused so everyone yields!
It’s all like a game of ‘chicken’ seeing how far you can drive towards the lights of an oncoming car, before yielding (it’s hard to gauge distances in these tunnels and sometimes what you think are the lights of an oncoming car is the daylight at the end of the tunnel).
It all makes for a ‘Mister Magoo’ type of adventure.
Driving through the 2.2 km long Hvannasundstunnilin (Hvannasund Tunnel) on Bordoy Island.
Sightseeing
The islands in the sightseeing section are ordered from west to east starting with Vágar Island (home to the airport and point of arrival for most visitors) and ending with Vidoy Island.
Vágar Island
The village of Gásadalur remained isolated from the world until the Gásadalur tunnel was completed in 2006.
Located at the end of the road on the northwest coast of Vágar Island, the tiny village of Gásadalur (population: 18) is nestled in a gentle, green valley, overlooking the Mykines Fjord and surrounded by the highest peaks on Vágar Island.
Completed in 2006, the 1.4 km single-lane Gásadalur tunnel was blasted through the mountain to provide access to the tiny village of Gásadalur.
Despite being located on the coast the village was isolated from the rest of the world for most of its existence due to the poor mooring sight which lies at the base of a cliff.
Previously, the only way of accessing the village was either by trekking over a 700-metre high mountain, taking a boat or flying via helicopter.
Not surprisingly, the population of the village dwindled over the years with just 16 residents remaining in 2002.
In 2004 construction started on a 1.4 kmsingle-lane tunnel – the Gásadalstunnilin – which was blasted through the Knúkarnir mountain, finally opening the village to the outside world in 2006.
Since becoming more accessible, the population has increased by 2!
The breathtakingly beautiful Mulafossur Waterfall plunges 60 metres into the Atlantic Ocean near the village of Gásadalur.
There are several hiking trails in the area and the village offers panoramic views of neighbouring Mykines Island. The standout attraction is the magnificent Mulafossur Waterfall, which starts life as a trickle on the towering peaks above the village, eventually plunging 60 metres in a single drop into the Atlantic Ocean. A magnificent sight!
The picturesque village of Bøur.
South of Gásadalur (heading back towards the airport), is the quaint seaside village of Bøur (population: 75). This compact village has a long history, dating back to at least 1350 AD. The historic houses (and one very cute church) are bunched tightly together along the (black sand) bay.
While driving between Bøur and Gásadalur you should look for an unmarked left-turn (just before the Gásadalur tunnel) onto a gravel road which will dead-end at a parking lot close to the coast. From here, you can walk through the fields (full of friendly sheep) towards the sea where a stunning beach and waterfall can be seen (no idea what the name of this beach is).
I came across this incredible sight after walking through some fields north of the village of Bøur.
South of Bøur, the town of Sørvágur offers dining and accommodation options (5 minutes from the airport) and is the departure point for boats to Mykines Island. If you’re using public transport, bus #300 connects Sørvágur to the airport and Tórshavn.
While in Sørvágur, I stayed at (and dined at) Guest House Hugo which makes an ideal base for exploring the region and is a perfect option if you have an early morning departure from the airport. The guesthouse can also organise rental cars (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below for more details).
An incredible sight – Sørvágsvatn is the largest lake in the Faroes and occupies the most dramatic setting high above the Atlantic.
Wow! Wow! Wow! What an amazing sight… located immediately south of the airport, Sørvágsvatn or Leitisvatn is the largest lake in the Faroe Islands and occupies what must be the most dramatic setting for any lake on this planet. If you see just one thing on the islands – this must be it.
A lone hiker lends a sense of scale to the magnificent scenery on the coast of Vágar island.
The lake lies in a depression 40 metres above the sea and empties into the Atlantic via a waterfall at it’s western end. However the perspective from the nearby 100 metre high sea cliffs makes for the most incredible (and vertigo inducing) photography.
How close do you dare get to the edge in order to get the perfect shot? Once you reach the coast, the views in either direction are stupendous.
Two hikers are dwarfed by the towering cliffs of the Vágar coast.
Access to the unmarked hiking trail is from a car park on the main airport road. If you’re using public transport, bus #300 will drop you at the trail head. The hike is along a muddy 4 km long track so bring some water and allow at least half a day here.
Located on the south coast of Vágar Island, Sandavágur has been voted the most well-kept village in the Faroes – twice.
The striking church of Sandavá dominates the village of Sandavágur, which has twice been voted the best-kept village in the Faroe Islands.
While this quiet, sleepy village offers little in the way of distractions, it is the access point for visits to the nearby Trøllkonufingur (The Troll Finger) – an iconic 313 m high shard of volcanic rock which pierces the sky from the Atlantic.
A view of yet another Salmon farm, near to the town of Sandavágur.
While this dramatic monolith is the subject of many local legends (it’s also known as the Witches Finger), the only people known to have climbed it were a bunch of Kiwi climbers in 2016 – they recorded their experience on Instagram.
The dramatic Troll Finger soars skyward from the Atlantic.
The only road connection between Vágar Island and neighbouring Streymoy Island is via the 5 km long (16,210 ft) under-sea Vágatunnilin.
This two-lane tunnel reaches a depth of 105 metres (344 ft) below sea level and requires the payment of a toll, which can be made at the “Effo” service station which is on the main road on the Streymoy Island side of the tunnel.
Streymoy Island
Houses in the Tinganes district of Tórshavn.
As much as anywhere on an archipelago could be referred to as the ‘mainland’, the Faroese do indeed call Streymoy Island just that. Streymoy is the largest and most populated of all the islands and is home to the capital and largest city – Tórshavn (population: 13,089 with 21,000 living in the greater urban area).
Boats in Tórshavn harbour.
While hardly a big, bustling city (there are just three traffic lights on the Faroe Islands, all of which are in downtown Tórshavn), the capital is a charming place to spend some time and with most of the accommodation and dining options on the Faroe Islands (see those sections below) it makes for a logical base.
Despite being a treeless archipelago, many houses on the Faroe Islands are constructed from timber and painted glossy colours – including black. This makes for a nice contrasting background onto which colourful ornaments are added. Can you see the camouflaged mailbox?
The sights of Tórshavn can be enjoyed on a short, pleasant stroll around the compact downtown area. Here you’ll find the picturesque port area and the historic Tinganes neighbourhood (home to the oldest parliament in the world). There is one art gallery – Listasavn Føroya (National Gallery of the Faroe Islands) – which is located on a hill north of the city centre.
Travel Tip: One travel tip worth mentioning is that buses in Tórshavn are free of charge.
A view at the top of the steep road which descends into the tiny settlement of Norðradalur.
Elsewhere on Streymoy Island there are three outstanding Buttercup routes, one of which is the high road (route 10) which runs along the barren, central plateau of the island, connecting Tórshavn with the airport road (route 11) near the Vágar tunnel.
I often travelled on this road as there is very little traffic (most people use the busier coastal road) and the panoramic views are incredible.
While on this route, it’s worth making the short detour and taking the steep, hair-pinned, narrow road down to the coastal village of Norðradalur. Really beautiful!
A wind farm located alongside route 10 on the central plateau of Streymoy Island.
At the northern end of Streymoy Island, another Buttercup route (route 53) connects the main-road village of Hvalvik (reachable from Tórshavn on bus #400) with the stunningly beautiful village of Saksun.
The drive along this road is challenging – a one-lane (but two way) elevated road with no shoulders, no rail guards and a river flowing alongside. Thankfully it’s never too busy and there are passing bays along the way should you encounter an oncoming car.
On the road to the remote village of Saksun.
Saksun lies in the bottom of what used to be an inlet of the sea, surrounded by high mountains. On the day I visited, the weather was typically Faroese – howling winds and horizontal, pelting rain which created impossible conditions in which to photograph. The village was surrounded by gushing waterfalls which was exciting but made hiking impossible.
Old turf-roofed farmhouses in the village of Saksun.
From Saksun, there is a popular hiking trail which takes you over the mountain and down to the coastal village of Tjørnuvík, although walking anywhere was not possible on the day I visited.
A very wet day in the village of Saksun, with a view of Lake Saksun.
Video:
How is it to drive along Route 53 to Saksun?
I recorded this video (while of course focusing carefully on my driving).
The third Buttercup route (route 594) connects the main-road village of Oyrarbakki (reachable from Tórshavn on bus #400) to the stunningly situated village of Tjørnuvík (population: 64).
I visited on a stormy day, but even with washed out views, the scenery was magnificent with Tjørnuvík surrounded on all sides by gushing waterfalls.
A view of the very narrow route 594 as it makes its final descent into the coastal village of Tjørnuvík.
Route 594 follows the coast of Streymoy Island with spectacular views across the Sundini fjord to neighbouring Eysturoy Island, including the 343-metre-high promontory – Eiðiskollur – which seems to be guarded by two rocky sentinels – Risin og Kellingin (means: The Giant and the Witch) – two sea stackswhich rise up 75 metres from the sea.
A hazy view of the soaring 343-metre-high Eiðiskollur promontory with the two 75-m high sea stacks – Risin og Kellingin.
Eysturoy Island
The village of Funningur (which lies on a Fjord of the same name) is illuminated by a late burst of sunlight.
Eysturoy Island (meaning ‘East Island’) is the 2nd largest of the Faroe Islands. The island is connected to the main island of Streymoy by the Streymin Bridge, which locals jokingly refer to as the only bridge over the Atlantic.
On the Buttercup route between Eiði and Funningur on Eysturoy Island.
The island is home to three Buttercup Routes with the most spectacular being the drive between the northern villages of Eiði and Funningur.
Before leaving the village of Eiði, it’s worth checking out the dramatic waterfall which crashes off the side of a high cliff into the sea. Depending on the time of the year, it will be either a trickle or a raging cascade.
Plunging hundreds of metres before becoming mist, yet another dramatic waterfall on the remote north coast of Eysturoy, near the village of Eiði.
The 12 km long road crosses a spectacular mountain pass (which is not maintained in winter) and passes directly under the summit of Slættaratindur, which – at an elevation of 880 m (2,887 ft) above the sea level – is the highest mountain in the Faroe Islands.
The highest mountain in the Faroe Islands, Slættaratindur (880 m), towers over the village of Funningur.
A turn (high above Funningur) allows you to make a detour into the popular tourist village of Gjógv, which comes into view after crossing yet another lofty mountain pass. This tiny village (population: 49) is incredibly scenic and makes a good base for hikes in the area.
The village is also popular as it features the only accommodation and restaurant option in this part of the world – the HotelGjáargarður (Guesthouse of Gjógv).
The view of the village of Gjógv from the restaurant at the Hotel Gjáargarður.
Nearby, a second buttercup route connects the villages of Funningsfjørður with charming Elduvik (population: 23). The drive along this road offers panoramic views of the dramatic coastline and the cobalt blue Funnings Fjord. When I arrived in Elduvik, the afternoon sun made an appearance (the first all day) which provided fantastic lighting.
A view of the picturesque village of Elduvik, which lies on the Funnings Fjord inlet.
The third Buttercup route is located at the southern end of Eysturoy Island, south of the main urban centre of Runavik. The route provides panoramic views of Toftavatn (Lake Toftir), the fourth-largest natural lake in the Faroe Islands.
A view of Toftavatn (Lake Toftir), with the town of Runavik in the background.
Borðoy Island
Borðoy Island (meaning ‘Headland Island’) is known for its nature, mountains, valleys and beautiful fjords.
While travelling around Borðoy, you’ll pass through two older tunnels; the 1,680-metre Árnafjarðartunnilin and the 2-km long Hvannasundstunnilin, which provide an east-west connection across the island. Both tunnels are unlit and feature a single lane (there’s one priority direction), with a series of passing bays.
The main town on Borðoy is Klaksvik which is the 2nd largest town on the Faroes (population: 4740) and is home to the vitally important Föroya Bjór brewery. The brewery produces a good range of craft beers and has a factory shop where you can stock up.
The craft beers produced by Föroya Bjór are very quaffable.
Apart from beer, the brewery produces a line of local soda drinks, including the popular Jolly Cola which is often the only cola available on the islands.
Feel like a Coca-Cola? The Faroese are keen supporters of their local Cola with many businesses only offering Jolly Cola rather than the more famous international cola.
Klaksvik offers a couple of accommodation options (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below) and is the main access point for Kalsoy Island, with regular car ferries departing for the island from a dedicated dock – click here to view the current timetable.
The view across to Vidoy Island from the village of Múli.
The island is home to one Buttercup route which runs along its western shore from the village of Norðdepil (reachable by #500 bus from Klaksvik) to the abandoned village of Múli.
If you’re driving, the narrow road is paved most of the way with the last 20% being rough gravel as you descend into the village. The route provides panoramic views of neighbouring Viðoy Island and lots of opportunities to interact with friendly Faroese sheep.
The Faroe Islands are full of super-cute rural scenes such as this one at Múli village.
Kunoy Island
The remote village of Kunoy on Kunoy Island.
Kunoy Island (meaning ‘Woman Island’) is the highest island in the Faroes with six summits above 800 metres. This long, narrow, exposed, volcanic mountain range is home to just two small villages which cling to the narrow coastline; Kunoy (population: 64) on the west coast and Haraldsund on the east coast.
Hiking trail near Kunoy Village.
Hiking trails from Kunoy Village provide access to the loftier parts of the island and if you’re planning on hiking you should bring all supplies with you from Klaksvik as there are no shops anywhere on the island.
Entrance to the 3-km long Kunoyartunnilin which was completed in 1988, providing access to the previously isolated Kunoy village.
A causeway near to Haraldsund connects Kunoy Island to Bordoy Island and, immediately after crossing the causeway, you enter the 3-km long, one-lane, unlit Kunoyartunnilin (road tunnel) which was completed in 1988 and, for the first time, provided access to the previously isolated village of Kunoy.
How many governments around the world would build a 3-km long tunnel though hard volcanic rock to connect a village of 64 souls to the outside world? Not too many!
Viðoy Island
The circuitous, but narrow, road around Vidoy Island offers spectacular views.
Viðoy is the northernmost island of the Faroes and features two small villages – Viðareiði (population: 346) to the north and Hvannasund to the south.
Vidoy translates as ‘Wood‘ and despite the fact that no trees grow on the island; the name relates to the driftwood that floats in from Siberia and North America. A newly completed tunnel which cuts through the central spine of the island allows you to tour Viðoy following a circuitous route.
The 2-km long Viðareiðistunnilin was opened in 2016, cutting a path across the centre of Vidoy Island, connecting the east and west coasts.
Viðareiði has the distinction of being the northernmost village in the Faroe Islands. Located on an isthmus and surrounded by high mountains and spectacular views, the village makes an ideal base for hikes into the nearby countryside.
A view of the village of Viðareiði from neighbouring Bordoy Island.
Heading east out of Viðareiði, the nearby island of Fugloy (the eastern-most of the Faroe Islands) comes into view. Ferries to Fugloy depart from the dock in Hvannasund, click here to view the current timetable.
The view across to Fugloy Island from Vidoy Island.
Accommodation
While there are no 5-star hotels, the Faroe Islands offer all other accommodation options, including cute private houses.
While there are no 5-star hotels on the Faroe Islands, there’s a small selection of everything else, from camping grounds to guest houses to 4-star hotels, with the majority of options located in Tórshavn.
If you plan to stay outside of the capital you should book in advance as the limited number of options are often fully booked.
Vágar & Mykines Island
My room at guest house Hugo offered sweeping views of Sørvágur harbour.
The Visit Vágar website features an accommodation directory, which lists options on Vágar and Mykines Islands. While on Vágar I stayed at Guest House Hugo in Sørvágur, which offers 4 rooms (2 doubles and 2 singles) with one shared bath/toilet at the end of the hallway.
Streymoy Island
The spacious living room at Tora guest house offers panoramic views of the harbour and nearby Nolsoy Island.
A complete listing of accommodation options on Streymoy Island can be found in the accommodation directory of the Visit Tórshavn website. The capital features five hotels and numerous guesthouses, while elsewhere on the island, small apartments and guesthouses are available.
My cosy room at the very welcoming Tora Guest House in Tórshavn.
While in Tórshavn, I stayed at the wonderful Tora Guesthouse, which offers four rooms (with one shared bathroom), a small kitchen area and a spacious living room with panoramic views of the harbour and neighbouring Nolsoy Island.
The owners (Tora and her husband Samal) are incredibly friendly, helpful and kind and made me feel like a part of their family making this feel like a home away from home.
The couple have worked in the local tourism industry for decades and, upon my arrival, Samal (who is normally busy leading tour groups around the island and is a font of information) took me for an impromptu drive around town to point out the highlights.
Eysturoy Island
My comfortable room at the remote Hotel Gjáargarður in Gjógv.
There are two hotels on Eysturoy island; the HotelGjáargarður (Guesthouse of Gjógv).which overlooks the tiny, picturesque northern village of Gjógv (population: 49) and the Hotel Runavik. There are many other smaller options, all of which are listed in the accommodation directory on the Visit Eysturoy website.
While on Eysturoy, I stayed at the busy and efficient Guesthouse of Gjógv. The vertical countryside surrounding tiny Gjógv is ideal for hiking and the approach (over a steep mountain pass) is spectacular. The guesthouse is popular and often fully booked so best to book in advance. Meals are served in the restaurant – the only one in town.
Northern Isles
The Northern Isles consist of Borðoy, Kunoy, Kalsoy, Viðoy and Svinoy. Within the isles there is one hotel – Hotel Klaksvik – and numerous small guesthouses which are featured in the accommodation directory on the Visit Nordoy website.
Eating Out
While they are so cute, they are also so tasty and many restaurant menus feature delicious Faroese ‘free-range’ sheep.
Streymoy Island
As with accommodation, the majority of restaurants, cafés and bars are to be found in Tórshavn, which offers a surprisingly rich culinary experience. Most dining options are locally run and serve only fresh, local produce and, while international junk food outlets are refreshingly absent (the Faroe Islands are one of very few countries in Europe to have no McDonalds), there is now a Burger King in Tórshavn.
Throughout town there are a number of excellent cafés, with my personal favourite being the quayside Kaffihúsið(Coffee House), which offers great tasting coffee and a good breakfast selection. Open from 9 AM until 6 PM, 7 days a week, Kaffihúsið is especially popular during lunchtime. A small Faroese craft shop adjoins the cafe and is a great place to pick up a souvenir.
Another worthwhile haunt is the beautifully appointed Paname Café, which is a short walk uphill from the harbour and offers arguably the best coffee in town along with freshly baked cakes, sandwiches and local craft beers.
Potato farming on the Faroe Islands involves covering a potato (and some fertiliser) with a cut section of peat under which the potato incubates.
There is no shortage of standout restaurants in Tórshavn, with many offering only locally sourced, high quality produce. This is the land of sheep and salmon so it’s not surprising that they feature on many menus.
One of my favourite restaurants is Katrina Christiansen which is housed in a charming, timber building in the historic Tinganes neighbourhood of Tórshavn. The restaurant features a Spanish-style tapas menu using only Faroese products – the lamb is especially recommended.
Vágar Island
The cosy and charming Café Fjørðoy at guest house Hugo features a treasure trove of historical objects which have remained in the house over the decades.
Located on the waterfront in Sørvágur, Café Fjørðoy at Guest House Hugo is under the competent command of the owners (Kent and his wife) who serve up delicious meals using fresh local produce, including Salmon from a nearby farm. The coffee is the best in town and compliments their tasty desert selection.
My delicious dinner at Guest House Hugo which featured a grilled fillet of local Salmon.
Eysturoy Island
If, like many tourists, you find yourself in the remote, tiny village of Gjógv, the only dining option for miles around is at the HotelGjáargarður (Guesthouse of Gjógv). Serving meals to visitors and guests, this cosy restaurant provides panoramic views of the village, sea and the surrounding (vertical) countryside.
No shortage of fresh Atlantic Salmon in the Faroe Islands.
Northern Isles
Within the Northern Isles, dining options are slim with the regional hub of Klaksvik providing the only real options. The most popular place (there are only two!) is the charming and friendly Café Frida whose slogan is “the best ingredients are local ingredients”. This excellent, cosy café, which overlooks Klaksvik port, is operated by an efficient and friendly team of staff who prepare the tastiest of meals (Faroese tapas lunch) using local products. The coffee is the best you’ll find this side of Tórshavn and the fresh cakes (Rhubarb cheesecake) are divine.
Visa Requirements
A Faroese passport stamp can be obtained from the police station at the airport.
Being a territory of Denmark, the visa policy of the Schengen area applies to the Faroe Islands.
Immigration Formalities
With the exception of the twice-weekly Atlantic Airways flight from Edinburgh, all other flights to the Faroe Islands originate from within the Schengen area, hence there are no immigration formalities upon arrival. If you’re not arriving from Edinburgh and wish to obtain a passport stamp, you can do so at the airport police station (turn right after exiting the terminal).
Getting There
Air
A view of the magnificent Sørvágsvatn from my SAS Airlines flight as we approach the Faroe Islands.
Flights to the Faroe Islands arrive at the brand new, modern terminal at Vágar Airport, which is located on the island of the same name. The airport is the only one on the Faroe Islands and serves as the main base for the Faroese national carrier – Atlantic Airways.
The following services are offered:
Atlantic Airways – flies to Aalborg (Denmark), Bergen (Norway), Billund (Denmark), Copenhagen (Denmark), Edinburgh (Scotland) & Reykjavík (Iceland)
Vágar island is connected to the other islands via the under-sea Vágatunnilin which is 4.9 km (3.0 mi) in length and reaches a depth of 105 metres (344 ft) below sea level. Tórshavn is 47 km (29 mi) east of the airport and can be reached in one hour on bus #300, which runs eleven times per day. Shared taxis to Tórshavn (45 mins) cost 200 DKK.
Sea
Smyril Line Route Map. Source – smyrilline.com
The Tórshavn headquartered Smyril Line operates a weekly car/ passenger ferry service between Denmark, the Faroe Islands and Iceland. Current pricesand the sailing scheduleare available from their website.
The M/S Norröna sails from Hirtshals (Denmark), docking 36 hours later in Tórshavn before continuing onto Iceland, docking 19 hours later at the eastern port town of Seyðisfjørður. Lonely Planet wrote an article on a journey aboard the boat, which you can read here.
Getting Around
Bus
The SSL bus and ferry route map. Source: http://www.ssl.fo/en/customer-service/travel-map/
Bus services are operated by Strandfaraskip Landsins (SSL), which is a nationally owned transportation company, providing bus and ferries services to all corners of the Faroe Islands. Their website provides the current bus timetable and details on Travel Cards, which are available for 4 or 7 days and provide unlimited travel on buses.
Despite providing a comprehensive service between the main urban centres, SSL buses do not reach the more remote areas of the Faroe Islands. If you wish to fully explore, your best bet is a rental car.
Ferry
Inter-island ferry services are provided by Strandfaraskip Landsins (SSL), who operate eight inter-island ferries (refer to the map above). Their website provides the current timetable and details on Travel Cards, which are available for 4 or 7 days and provide unlimited travel on ferries.
Air
Atlantic Airways – the national airline of the Faroe Islands.
If you wish to travel by air within the islands your only option is to use the helicopter service provided by Atlantic Airways. For current fares, timetables and bookings, please refer to their website.
Rental Car
My rental car, which allowed me to maximise my time on the Faroe Islands.
The best way to maximise your time on the islands is to rent a car. Roads are generally excellent, traffic is light and many of the more picturesque locations are remote and not served by public transport.
Despite their remote location, the Faroe Islands are popular with tourists and demand for cars can sometimes outstrip supply so its best to book in advance.
The following operators can be found at the airport:
The following operators can be found in other locations:
Waag Rental – One of the larger car dealers on the Faroe Islands, Waag operates a side-line car rental business with an office in Miðvágur (a short drive from the airport) and from their main downtown office in Tórshavn.
Guest House Hugo – Also a short drive from the airport in the town of Sørvágur, this cosy guest house can arrange car rental and will collect you from the airport upon arrival.
From Games of Thrones, Star Wars, Star Trek to Interstellar – whenever Hollywood director’s wish to shoot scenes in landscapes that are ‘otherworldly‘ they often turn to Iceland.
The incredible Gullfoss waterfall is a highlight in a country full of highlights.
The ‘Land of Fire & Ice‘ is a magical destination, full of incredible natural attractions (all of which are free to visit) set in landscapes which are totally surreal.
Arnardrangur or “Eagle Rock” stands sentinel on the very black Reynisfjara beach.
Iceland is an isolated volcanic island, located in the middle of the North Atlantic ocean at the top of the world (just below the Arctic circle) – an island of striking natural beauty with incredible geological marvels. If you have a yearning to travel somewhere completely different then Iceland is for you.
Þingvallavatn Lake, the largest lake in Iceland, lies within the Thingvellir National Park.
From eerie, moss-covered lava fields, treeless landscapes, active volcanos, powerful waterfalls, erupting geysers, gigantic glaciers (including the largest in Europe), dramatic black-sand beaches and spectacular coastlines, Iceland offers up one astounding view after another.
View from the summit of Saxholl Crater.
The island sits atop the mid-Atlantic ridge – a submarine mountain range which (at 40,000 km in length) is the world’s longest mountain range. It is believed that Bermuda was once part of the ridge but has moved further west over millions of years to it’s current location. The only place where this ridge breaches the ocean surface is Iceland.
The milky-coloured water of Blue Lagoon.
The ridge, which runs diagonally across the island, marks the point where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates meet, which makes Iceland one of the most geologically active places on Earth. In geographical terms, Iceland is a young country, having been formed some 18 million years ago and, in many respects, is still being formed. The island also sits above a hot-spot, the Iceland Plume, which is believed to have caused the formation of the island itself.
Mock-up of the Iceland Plume at the LAVA Centre.
Just as the landscapes are ‘otherworldly’, so too, prices in the Iceland can seem ‘out of this world‘. Iceland is not a travel bargain, with the country constantly being ranked as one of the most expensive in the world. Despite the high costs, thousands of tourists (including backpackers) are streaming in – many taking advantage of Icelandair’s free stopover offer (see the ‘Getting there‘ section below for more).
Icelandic horses can be seen all over the island.
While a budget guest house can cost in excess of US$100 per night, a restaurant meal US$40, a glass of craft beer US$15 or a cappuccino U$7 – costs can be reduced. Camper vans (see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below) equipped with beds are available for hire, while many guest houses offer kitchen facilities allowing guests to self-cater.
Lonely Planet provides a useful travel cost guide for Iceland with a recommended daily allowance of US$180 for budget travel. All natural attractions are free of charge but where tickets are required, they are expensive.
You can venture inside an extinct volcano which will cost you US$420 per ticket for the half day trip. You can go inside a glacier where the Classic tour will cost you US$190 for the 2-4 hour trip.
Iceland gull at Olafsvik.
Despite the high costs, there is something magical and enchanting about this cold, isolated, volcanic rock and everyone I met travelling there was firmly under its spell. If you ever have the chance to visit I recommend you do so.
One Degree of Separation…
The world can seem like a small place at times, but in Iceland it really is a small place. According to the genealogy websiteislendingabok.is, everyone in Iceland is related, with the entire population of 334,000 being derived from the same family tree. The website (whose name translates as ‘Book of Icelanders‘), claims to be the only genealogy database in the world that covers a whole nation, with more than 95 percent of all Icelanders born since 1703 registered into the database.
The creation of the websitespawned the development of a unique app – islendingaApp –which allows Icelanders to learn about their family tree. More importantly, the app features a “bump” feature which allows two smartphones to be bumped together to check how closely related two individuals are. If they are too closely related, an “incest alarm” discreetly warns both users – thereby providing a degree of comfort for Icelandic daters that they won’t run into their date at a future family reunion.
Location
Reykjavík, Iceland
Located at the top of the world, Iceland can be found at the confluence of the North Atlantic and Arctic Oceans, east of Greenland, west of Norway and 450 km north-west of the Faroe Islands.
History
An antique map of Iceland, on display in Reykjavík.
Due to it’s remote location, Iceland was not settled until the 9th century when Viking explorers and their slaves arrived from Norway and the United Kingdom.
Once discovered, Norwegian settlers (who were fleeing conflict at home) flocked to the island. In 930, these settlers established a form of governance, the Althing, which became the Icelandic parliament and is today the world’s oldest continuous serving parliament.
Viking ship rooftop decoration in Reykjavik.
The island managed to remain independent until the 13th century, when (due to internal conflicts weakening the country) it was subjugated to Norway. In the 16th century, the island became a Danish territory and remained so untilthe end of WWI.
Following the end of the war, Iceland became a sovereign nation but remained attached to Denmark by sharing the Danish monarchy. During WWII, and following the fall of Denmark to the Nazi’s,allied forces – led by British and later American forces – peacefully occupied the island to prevent a Nazi invasion. Following the end of WWII, Iceland severed all ties with Denmark and declared full independence.
Stamps of Iceland.
Since gaining independence, this remote, sparsely populated island has often punched above it’s weight, being a founding member of the United Nations and NATO. A more comprehensive history of Iceland is available on Wikipedia.
Iceland Today
The distinctive coloured glass façade of the Harpa concert hall in Reykjavik is inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland.
Until the 20th century, Iceland was among the poorest countries in Europe, but – thanks to strong economic growth – the country today is one of the most developed in the world and one of the greenest – deriving all power from renewable sources.
Prior to the 2007/ 2008Global Financial Crisis, Iceland was ranked first in the world in the UN Human Development Index. During the financial crisis, the country made news headlines for all the wrong reasons, with its three largest banks collapsing under the weight of a debt burden which was estimated to be six times the nation’s gross domestic product. Despite entering a severe economic depression, the country slowly recovered thanks to the introduction of strict capital controls by the government and bailouts from the IMF and neighbouring Nordic countries.
Iceland is not a member of the EU but is part of the Schengen Area (a single European region for international travel purposes).
Currency
My Icelandic 1000 Krona bank note.
The official currency of Iceland is the Krona (kr) which trades under the international currency code of ISK.
Like the Nordic currencies (such as the Danish krone, Swedish krona and Norwegian krone) that participated in the historical Scandinavian Monetary Union, the name króna (meaning crown) comes from the Latin word corona (“crown”).
With a population of just 334,000 – Iceland has the distinction of being the second smallest country, after the Seychelles, to have its own currency and monetary policy.
The currency is issued by the Central Bank of Iceland but printed by Thomas de La Rue in the UK. Bank notes are issued in denominations of 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10000 krona with coins issued in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 50, 100 krona.
Current exchange rates are:
USD $1 = 139 kr (click here to check the current rate)
EUR€1 = 163kr (click here to check the current rate)
GBP£1 = 179 kr (click here to check the current rate)
Flag
The flag of Iceland.
The flag of Iceland consists of a blue field with a white-edged, red Nordic cross that extends to the edges. The vertical part of the cross, which represents Christianity, is shifted to the hoist side.
The flag was adopted when Iceland gained independence from Denmark in 1918. The flag’s colouring represents a vision of the Icelandic landscape, with red representing the fire produced by the island’s volcanoes, white representing the ice and snow that covers Iceland, and blue being the mountains.
The flag of Iceland flying in Reykjavík.
The flag is protected by a law which states that using the flag is a privilege and not a right. The owner must follow instructions on its usage and make sure that his or her flag is in mint condition regarding colouring, wear and tear. It also states that no-one shall disrespect the flag in act or word, subject to a fine or imprisonment of up to one year.
Sights
The land of fire and ice provides one stunning view after another.
Reykjavik
Lava fields outside of Reykjavik.
Located in the southwest of the island with a population of 216,000 – Reykjavík and the capital region are home to two-thirds of the entire population, with the city serving as a commercial, administrative, transportation and cultural hub. Fronted by the chilly, choppy waters of the North Atlantic and surrounded by towering, treeless mountains and barren lava fields, the city has a remote frontier feel to it.
Traditional gable in downtown Reykjavik.
The downtown streets are lined with quirky, brightly coloured corrugated aluminium buildings, with the city having an unhurried, relaxed, sleepy atmosphere. There is no shortage of cafés, restaurants, bars, souvenir shops, museums and everything else you would expect to find in a capital city.
‘Made in Iceland’ socks on sale for the bargain price of US$39.
Shopping in Iceland is not for the miserly, with most ‘Made in Iceland‘ products priced in the stratosphere – such as these fine woollen socks which were on sale for US$39.
Reykjavik Sights
The dazzling glass interior of the Harpa Concert hall, Reykjavik.
Located on the waterfront, it’s hard to miss the glass edifice of the Harpa Concert Hall. The award-winning architectural design features a distinctive coloured-glass façade said to be inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland. The interior walls and ceiling are made of glass panels which make for interesting photography.
Neon signage against a grey sky in downtown Reykjavik.
Located on a hill at the other end of town, Hallgrímskirkja is a Lutheran church which is one of the city’s best-known landmarks.
The towering Hallgrímskirkja, an iconic church which is the main landmark in the Reykjavik.
Designed in 1937, the church is said to resemble the towering Icelandic landscape with it’s vertical mountains and glaciers. The tower is open for visits which provides the best view of the city.
A view of the interior of Hallgrímskirkja.
Near Reykjavik
The milky-coloured water of Blue Lagoon.
Set in the middle of a barren lava field, Iceland’s #1 tourist attraction is the ever popular Blue Lagoon. The lagoon is located in Grindavík, 45 minutes south of Reykjavik and 20 minutes from Keflavik airport. It’s best to visit the lagoon on your way to the airport – there’s no better way to relax before a flight than by spending a few hours in a giant warm, mineral bath.
The lagoon water is geothermal seawater which originates at a depth of 2,000m beneath the earth, travelling up to the surface through porous lava where it is used to run turbines that generate electricity at a neighbouring power station (all power in Iceland is derived from renewable sources). The run-off water from the power station is then fed into the lagoon for the tourist hoards to enjoy.
Bathers enjoying the warm, soothing waters of the Blue Lagoon.
More milky-coloured than blue, the water gets its colour from silicate minerals which, along with other minerals and algae, make the water ideal for both recreational and medicinal purposes. With the water temperature hovering between a comfortable 37 and 39°C, the lagoon feels like one big bath and is especially nice on a cold Icelandic day.
The very spacious and relaxing Blue Lagoon.
Due to its immense popularity, it is essential that you pre-book your ticket well in advance, which you can do on the Blue Lagoon website. Ticket prices are not cheap, ranging from a Standard ticket (US$61 – excluding tax) to the Luxury package (US$520 for two – excluding tax). I chose the standard ticket which I would recommend, this includes a silica mud mask. You can reduce costs by bringing your own towel and drinking the tap water, which is actually glacier water. There’s a swim-up bar where you can refresh yourself with an ice cold beer, wine or cocktail.
Considering the effort required in getting there and the cost of the ticket you should allow half a day to make the most of your visit. I stayed for 4 hours which was an ideal amount of time. There are restaurants and luggage storage facilities for those heading to the airport.
Central Region
Golden Circle Route Map
Most of the sites of the central region are accessible from the circuitous tourist route known as the Golden Circle. The circuit can be completed on a day trip from Reykjavik and is the most popular tourist route in Iceland with the remote road often congested with tour buses and hire cars. The main attractions are the Thingvellir National Park, Geysir, Gullfoss and Kerid Crater.
Thingvallavatn Lake, the largest lake in Iceland is part of Thingvellir National Park.
Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park
Thingvellir National Park, which is the first stop on the Golden Circle trip, is a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site, a Game of Thrones film location and the place where the Althing(the world’s oldest parliament) was established more than 1,000 years ago. The mid-Atlantic Ridge cuts through the park, separating the North American and Eurasian plates, creating a rift valley (the plates are moving apart). The centre piece of the park is Iceland’s largest lake – Thingvallavatn.
Cute to look at but often a road hazard, Icelandic sheep roam freely throughout Iceland.
Öxarárfoss
This 20 m high waterfall is said to be man-made, having been formed centuries ago when a river was diverted to provide drinking water.The falls cascade down the wall of a rocky fault line and are accessible via a boardwalk. A hiking trail allows you to walk the length of the canyon created by the fault.
The Öxarárfoss waterfall.
Geysir
Composite image of Strokkur Geysir erupting.
About an hour up the road from ThingvellirNational Park is Geysir, home to two gushing geysers – Strokkur and Geysir. The main geyser – Geysir – rarely erupts while the smaller – Strokkur – erupts every 5-6 minutes, sometimes reaching 30 metres! The English word – geyser – originates from Geysir, which comes from the Icelandic verb geyser, “to gush”.
Hot sulphur spring at Geysir.
Gullfoss
The spectacular Gullfoss waterfall.
A 10 minute drive up the road from Geysir brings you to the spectacular Gullfoss waterfall, a massive, two-tiered waterfall where the Hvita river cascades down an 11 m drop then a 21 m drop emptying into a 2.5 km long crevasse before continuing its journey.
Always a rainbow at Gullfoss waterfall.
Photos of the falls are impressive but there’s nothing quite like standing on the viewing platform next to the pounding, crashing waters – its raw, powerful nature at its best.
Kerid Volcanic Crater
The Kerid Volcanic crater.
Kerid crater is a stunning site, a sapphire-blue lake nestled in the bottom of a volcanic crater, the slopes of which are covered in red volcanic rock. If you wish to get a good photo of the crater you should visit in the middle of the day. I visited late in the afternoon when most of the crater was in shadow.
Friendly Icelandic horses on the Golden Circle.
South Coast
In a country full of spectacular sights it’s hard to nominate a favourite drive but the south coast was a highlight. I thought I could cover most sights on a day trip from Reykjavik but oh how wrong I was – at the end of my 1st day I was half way along my planned route, and needed to make a return trip to complete the journey. There are plenty of guest houses along the way (see ‘Accommodation‘ below) so there’s no need to backtrack to Reykjavik.
LAVA Centre
Interactive display at the LAVA centre.
A good starting point for any drive along the south coast is the LAVA Centre in the town of Hvolsvöllur. This elegant, contemporary, intelligently designed museum uses interactive displays to showcase Iceland’s volcanic heritage.
Orange circles on a map of Iceland at the Lava Centre indicate earthquake activity in the last 24 hours.
It’s here where you learn how the sights along the coast were formed, and it’s here you gain an appreciation of just how volatile and fluid the countryside around is, with up-to-the minute seismic & eruption readings.
Seljalandsfoss
Seljalandsfoss waterfall.
Shortly after the LAVA centre the beautiful Seljalandsfosscomes into view just off the ring road – marking the start of the geological attractions along the coast. This beautiful 63 m high waterfall is one of the highlights of the south coast with a walking trail which allows you to walk under a ledge, placing you behind the waterfall.
Behind Seljalandsfoss waterfall.
Skógafoss
A rainbow is always guaranteed at Skógafoss waterfall.
Just 20 minutes from Seljalandsfoss, you’ll find the spectacular Skógafoss, a dramatic 60 m drop waterfall which cascades over a cliff which was formerly part of the coastline. There’s something special about Skógafoss – it comes from the sheer majesty and power of the falls and the fact that they are so accessible – you can get right up close which is an overwhelming experience.
View from the top of Skógafoss waterfall.
Eyjafjallajökull
Now sleepy, an eruption of Eyjafjallajökull volcano in 2010 caused enormous disruption to air travel across Europe for a week.
Eyjafjallajökull(volcano) gained notoriety during its last eruption in April, 2010 when, although relatively small for volcanic eruptions, it caused enormous disruption to air travel across western and northern Europe over a period of six days. The volcano is covered by a 100 km2 ice cap which feeds many surrounding glaciers.
Typical south coast scenery in Iceland.
Mýrdalsjökull
The Mýrdalsjökull glacier.
Mýrdalsjökullis the country’s fourth largest glacier, covering nearly 600 km2. The ice cap covers the Katla volcano, an active volcano which erupts on average every 40-80 years, with the last eruption being in 1918. A company at the base of the glacier offers walks on the ice.
Sólheimasandur
A US Navy airplane, a Douglas Super DC-3, wrecked on the black sands of Sólheimasandur beach.
On November 24, 1973 a United States Navy plane crashed onto the black-sand beach at remote Sólheimasandurin. The crash was caused due to a sudden weather change but the pilot was able to land the plane without any fatalities.
The U.S. military salvaged the usable pieces and left the rest on the beach. To reach the plane you must walk for 4-km across an old glacier plain to the wreckage (you should allow 40 mins each way).
Reynisfjara
Reynisfjara (black-sand beach) with the towering Reynisdrangar.
Reynisfjara is a stunningly beautiful black-sand beach, famous for its basalt sea-stacks (Reynisdrangar).
View of Reynisdrangar from inside the basalt column cave.
The black sand isn’t the only lava creation on Reynisfjara – looking like a pipe organ in a cathedral, Gardar is an enormous natural pyramid made of basalt columns. Beneath the columns is a cave which you can enter.
The perfectly formed basalt columns form a rocky pyramid known as Gardar.
Dyrhólaey
Dyrhólaey – a 120 m high arch carved out of a promontory.
Just along the coast from the black sand beach and close to the town of Vik is the Dyrhólaey peninsula whose name translates as ‘the hill-island with the door-hole’, named aftera 120 m high arch carved out of the promontory.
There are two viewing areas on the peninsula – a lower and upper.A rough gravel road leads up a steep hill to the upper viewing area where you’ll find a lighthouse which affords panoramic views along the coast.
View along the coast from Dyrhólaey lighthouse.
A sealed road leads to the lower viewing area where you have a spectacular view of Arnardrangur or “Eagle Rock” which stands like a sentinel on Reynisfjara beach. The rock gets its name from the eagles that nested there until 1850.
Arnardrangur or “Eagle Rock” on Reynisfjara beach.
Vik
The hilltop church at Vik.
Located on the coast, in the shadow of Mýrdalsjökull glacier and dominated by it’s hilltop church, Vík í Mýrdal is the most southern town in Iceland. Vik is the largest service centre along the south coast so it’s a good place to refuel your car and yourself.
If you’re in town for lunch or dinner I recommend the delicious lamb leg served at the restaurant inside the Icewear shop. If you’re heading further east you should ensure you leave town with a full tank of fuel as there are few petrol stations east of Vik.
Skaftafell
Cars passing in front of Skaftafellsjökull provide a sense of scale.
Part of the Vatnajökull National Park, Skaftafell is a hikers paradise, with trails leading to incredible sights such as the Skaftafellsjökull– arelatively small spur draining the massive Vatnajökull ice field, which at 8,100 km² is Europe’s largest ice cap. Vatnajökull covers 8% of the total territory or Iceland with average ice thickness being 400m.
Skaftafellsjökull, a small spur of the much larger Vatnajökull.
A hiking trail leads from the visitor’s centre to a high mountainside ridge which affords a stunning panoramic view of Skaftafellsjökull.
Snaefellsnes Peninsula
I made a day trip of the peninsula from Reykjavik but there is so much here it deserves a longer visit. If staying overnight you have options in Ólafsvík and Arnarstapi. The scenery is spectacular and the sights are breath-taking.
Scenery on the Snæfellsnes peninsula.
Budir
The black wooden Budarkirkja (church) at Budir.
Budir is a tiny hamlet set amid the sprawling, barren Budahraun lava field which is known for it’s quaint black wooden church (Budarkirkja), which stands alone on a small coastal hill
Raudfeldsgja
Entering the Raudfeldsgja canyon.
Located near to Arnarstapi, Raudfeldsgja (Rauðfeldsgjá) is a deep, high, narrow ravine in the cliffs south of the Snæfellsjökull glacier. The ravine gets its name from a family tragedy which is part of an Icelandic saga.
From the nearby road, the massive natural crack doesn’t immediately seem to be accessible, however, as you approach an entrance is revealed. The walls of the ravine are a favoured nesting site for Northern Fulmar seabirds.
A Northern Fulmar nesting inside Raudfeldsgja canyon.
Arnarstapia
View of the coast at Arnarstapi.
Arnarstapi,or Stapi, is a quiet, quaint, remote fishing village located on the south side of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. With a dramatic coastline of cliffs and inlets, Stapi is a popular stop for tourists driving around the peninsula, offering a couple of hotels and restaurants. If you’re in town at lunch time I recommend the fish ‘n’ chips from the roadside kiosk on the road into town.
The beautiful Arnarstapi coastline.
A walking trail along the coast offers incredible panoramic views along the peninsula. A series of deep basalt-columned chasms add an element of risk with one of them offering the chance to walk across a spectacular natural stone bridge.
A natural bridge over a basalt ravine at Arnarstapi.
Djúpalónssandur Beach
Djúpalónssandur beach is surrounded by lava formations.
Located on the eastern side of the peninsula, Djúpalónssandur beach is set amid a giant lava field.
Saxholl Crater
The perfectly shaped Saxholl Crater has a stairway leading to it’s summit.
A metal staircase spirals to the top of Saxholl – a 100 m high crater, from where you have stunning views over the surrounding lava field.
View from the top of Saxholl crater.
Ólafsvík
Iceland gull flying at Ólafsvík.
Ólafsvík is the main service centre for the peninsula and a large fishing port. With a good selection of hotels and restaurants, it makes a good base for exploring the peninsula. The town is often buffeted by fierce winds which makes it easy to photograph the large population of seabirds which congregate on the beaches.
An Iceland gull flying at Ólafsvík.
Accommodation
Not cheap! International chains have few footholds in Iceland, however there are plenty of guest houses and hostels in Reykjavík and around the island. I stayed at the Norðurey(Nordurey)guest house in downtown Reykjavík, where a standard room cost me US$110 per night (all rooms use shared bathrooms).
Housed inside an old (drab on the outside) apartment block, the modern, crisp interior has been tastefully renovated using lots of IKEA products.
The property is kept spotlessly clean by the friendly staff who come onsite each day. Included is a beautiful, spotlessly clean, kitchen which allows guests to self-cater, saving lots of money in a country where a sandwich can cost US$20!
If I had my time again I would not base myself Reykjavík, instead I would use it as a start and end point for a trip around the island. While Reykjavík is interesting for half a day, it’s not nearly as interesting as the natural sights located further afield.
Each day I ventured into the amazing countryside, passing lots of guest houses along the way and then each evening I had to drive back to my base in the capital – crazy!
A good starting point for booking accommodation is the accommodation.is website. Many Icelandic guest houses cannot be found on regular online travel sites but more and more are appearing on Airbnb.com.
Eating Out
No mass food production in this bucolic paradise.
From Minke whale to smoked puffin –like the country itself, the cuisine of Iceland is an adventure. Restaurants in Reykjavík offer all sorts of unique delicacies including whale meat which can be eaten raw or cooked.
The meat is red and is more related to beef (no fishy taste at all!), albeit a healthier, leaner version. Icelanders will tell you that Minke whale is not an endangered species, but for many visitors it’s still whale and that’s a no-go. A good place to try a sampling of everything Icelandic is at Tapas Barinnin downtown Reykjavík.
Chip shop in Reykjavik.
My personal favourites were Icelandic lamb (all of which is free range and very organic) and ling – a local member of the cod family which is plentiful in the waters around Iceland. The best lamb I tried was served at the new Icewear restaurant in the south-coast town of Vik.
Amazing lamb leg served at the Icewear restaurant in Vik.
The best ling I tried was served at Fish & More in downtown Reykjavík (their wall-sized World map is very cool).
The different flavours of Skyr, the most amazing yoghurt on earth. Source: skyr.is
Worth a special mention is Skyr, which is a low-fat dairy product that resembles yogurt but isn’t. It has the consistency of a cream mousse but contains hardly any fat! It’s a product that’s unique to Iceland and something I was hooked on.
Visa Requirements
Some nationalities require visas for Iceland,which is a Schengen state. Check your visa requirements prior to arrival.
Getting There
Despite its remote geographical location, getting to Iceland is relatively easy for those travelling between Europe and North America, all thanks to the national carrier– Icelandair – who have turned their hub (Keflavík International Airport) into a trans-Atlantic travel hub. There’s nothing like an inducement to motivate traveller’s and Icelandair’sfree stopover offer is a big carrot that has proven very popular with tourists with arrival number’s increasing from 500,000 in 2010 to 1,800,000 in 2016.
By Air
Most visitor’s to Iceland arrive at Keflavík International Airport (KEF), the largest airport and the hub for the nation’s two main carriers – Icelandair and WOW Air. Located 49 km (30 mi) SW of Reykjavík, the airport can be reached by bus or car.
The following airlines operate regular scheduled services to and from Keflavík:
Air Berlin – flights to Berlin–Tegel, Düsseldorf
Air Iceland Connect – flight to Akureyri
Atlantic Airways – flight to Vágar (Faroe Islands)
British Airways – flight to London–Heathrow
Delta Air Lines – flight to New York–JFK
easyJet – flights to Edinburgh, London–Gatwick, London–Luton, Manchester
Norwegian Air Shuttle – flights to Barcelona, Oslo–Gardermoen
Scandinavian Airlines – flights to Copenhagen, Oslo–Gardermoen
Wizz Air – flights to Budapest, Gdańsk, Katowice, Prague, Riga, Vilnius, Warsaw–Chopin, Wrocław
WOW Air – flights to Amsterdam, Baltimore, Berlin–Schönefeld, Boston, Brussels, Cincinnati Cleveland, Copenhagen, Detroit, Dublin, Edinburgh, Frankfurt, Gran Canaria, London–Gatwick, London–Stansted, Los Angeles, Miami, Montréal–Trudeau, Newark, Paris–Charles de Gaulle, Pittsburgh, San Francisco, St. Louis, Stockholm–Arlanda, Tel Aviv–Ben Gurion, Toronto–Pearson, Warsaw–Chopin
Reykjavík Airport (REK)is the second largest airport and is more conveniently located – just 3 km from downtown Reykjavík. The airport serves domestic flights and is a hub for Air Iceland Connect (a subsidiary of Icelandair) which operates flights to Greenlandand the Faroe Islands(through Atlantic Airways).
The following airlines operate regular scheduled services to and from Reykjavík:
Air Iceland Connect – flights to Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Ilulissat, Ísafjörður, Kulusuk, Nuuk (Greenland)
Atlantic Airways – flight to Vagar (Faroe Islands)
Eagle Air – flights to Bíldudalur, Gjögur, Húsavík, Höfn, Vestmannaeyjar
Mýflug – flight to Akureyri
Getting Around
The excellent highways in Iceland, such as this one on the west coast, are normally free of traffic.
Bus
Iceland Public Transport Map. Source: www.publictransport.is
Iceland has an extensive network of long-distance bus routes, all of which are detailed on the clickable, route map on the website www.publictransport.is
Bus Passports are sold on the ‘Iceland by Bus‘ website. A passport covering a journey around the entire ring-road currently costs 37,900 ISK. If you’re more than one person, it can be more economical to hire a car.
Taxi
Uber or Lyft have yet to make it to Iceland. Taxi’s can be found on ranks in downtown Reykjavík or can be booked in advance from one of the following companies:
Hreyfill (Tel:+354-588-5522)
BSR (Tel: +354-561-0000).
Train
There are no trains on Iceland.
Ferry
Seatoursoperate regular ferries to various islands.
Car
My rental car on the Ring road.
The best way to maximise your time on Iceland is to hire a car. I rented a car through Green Motion, who have an office near to Keflavík airport. Driving in a country like Iceland presents it’s own set of unique challenges, these are outlined here.
I did make some friends while driving around Iceland, like these friendly Icelandic sheep. who surrounded my car so I couldn’t leave them.
If you’re on a budget and don’t mind sleeping in your vehicle, there are plenty of companies which hire camper vans. A good place to start is happycampers.is who offer a range of vehicles, all of which are equipped with beds and rooftop solar panels.
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