Tag - French Territory

Saint Barts Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
A panoramic view of Anse du Gouverneur.

Saint Barts Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Saint Barts Travel Guide!

Date Visited: May 2015

Introduction

Saint-Barthélemy or Saint-Barth (in French)/ St. Barts (in English), once had the distinction of being the only Swedish colony in the Caribbean. Today it is a French overseas collectivity.

A traditional Swedish-style cottage in Gustavia.

A traditional Swedish-style cottage in Gustavia.

This small (25 square kilometres) volcanic island has a reputation for being an upmarket playground for the rich and famous. But, like a sparkling diamond set in the turquoise waters of the Caribbean, St. Barts has many sides to it.

For some it is a place to moor their mega-yacht, holiday in a luxurious private villa, dine in exclusive restaurants – where French chefs prepare haute cuisine – and shop in expensive boutiques.

For others, St. Barts is a day trip from neighbouring St. Martin. A chance to dip into another world before returning back to reality.

However, despite it’s reputation, it is possible to have a reasonably priced holiday on the island. You can secure a hotel room without taking out a second mortgage on your home, you can eat in moderately priced restaurants and car rental is affordable.

Either way, if you have the chance to visit this enchanting island you should do so, no matter your budget.

Location

St. Barts lies 26-km southeast of Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin (Dutch/ French), 43-km southeast of Anguilla (British) and about 50-km northeast of Saba and Statia.

The most popular way of reaching the island is by daily fast ferry from St. Martin – see the ‘Getting there’ section below for more details.

History

Like neighbouring islands, St. Barts was originally inhabited by the native Arawak Indians who sailed up through the Antilles from Venezuela. They were replaced by the more aggressive Carib Indians.

The first European to make landfall on the island was Columbus during his 2nd voyage to the America’s in 1493, he named the island after his brother – Bartolomeo. As with other islands, Columbus received a hostile reception from the Caribs so the Spanish never attempted to settle the island.

St. Barts was first settled in 1648 by French colonists from neighbouring St. Kitts. Five years later, a raid by angry Carib Indians destroyed the settlement killing all the settlers.

In 1763, the island was settled again by the French. French buccaneers also used the island as a base to raid Spanish galleons. There is still believed to be buried treasure on the island.

Due to it’s small size and rocky, dry landscape, sugar plantations were never established on the island so slaves were never present in large numbers. This is reflected in the population today (9,000), which is mostly comprised of descendants of the first French settlers.

In 1784 the French sold St. Barts to Sweden in exchange for trading rights in the Swedish port of Gothenburg. As a free port under Swedish rule, Gustavia was a thriving settlement. During this time anything could be bought or sold by anyone, including pirates. The harbour was surrounded by overflowing warehouses and the port was busy with visiting merchant ships from many nations.

France re-purchased the island in 1878 and has maintained control ever since.

Many influences from the Swedish era still remain today, including the name of the capital – Gustavia. The town remains a free port, it’s street signs are in French and Swedish and Swedish architecture can still be seen around the old town.

All street signs in Gustavia are in Swedish and French.

All street signs in Gustavia are in Swedish and French.

Up until 2007, St. Barts was part of the French overseas department of Guadeloupe but separated following a successful secession vote in 2003. Being French, St. Barts is part of the European Union with the Euro as it’s official currency. Like other French overseas regions, St. Barts receives generous subsidies each year from Paris.

Today tourism is the islands’ key industry and only got started after the eccentric Dutch aviator, Rémy de Haenen, landed his plane at St. Jean – the location of today’s airport – in 1946. He would later make the first landing on Saba, opening that island to aviation and tourism. 

He eventually became the first hotelier and the island’s mayor, hosting the rich and famous such as Howard Hughes and Hollywood stars. In 1957, American millionaire David Rockefeller bought a property on the island. The rich and famous continue to flock to the island.

Swedish-era colonial cottage in Gustavia.

Swedish-era colonial cottage in Gustavia.

Today the island enjoys a high standard of living all thanks to the international investment and the wealth generated by wealthy tourists. Tourism attracts about 200,000 visitors every year, many of these are day-trippers from St. Martin. Most of the food on the island is imported by air plane or boat from the US or France.

Flag

The unofficial flag of St. Barts.

The unofficial flag of St. Barts.

The flag of Saint Barthélemy is the French tricolour. This is because Saint Barthélemy is a self-governing overseas collectivity of France. An unofficial flag of Saint Barthélemy, consisting of the island’s coat of arms centred on a white field, is also used on the island.

The flag of St. Barts flying outside the Hotel de Collectivite (City Hall) in Gustavia.

The flag of St. Barts flying outside the Hotel de Collectivite (City Hall) in Gustavia.

The coat of arms consists of a shield divided into three horizontal stripes, which contain three gold fleurs-de-lis on blue, above a white Maltese cross on red, over three gold crowns on blue. The shield is topped by a gold crown, while beneath, on a white banner, is the name “Ouanalao“, which was the original name given to the island by the indigenous inhabitants.

Currency

Euro Currency

Euro Currency

Being a part of France, the official currency of St. Barts is the Euro, the US dollar is widely accepted. As can be expected on an island which is a playground for the rich and famous, the cost of everything is high!

Sightseeing

Gustavia

View over Gustavia, the capital of Saint Barts.

View over Gustavia, the capital of Saint Barts.

The capital and largest city (2,300), Gustavia is built around a U-shaped cove facing the harbour on the west side.

Formerly known as “Carénage” (after the shelter it provided to damaged ships), the Swedes renamed the capital in 1785 in tribute to their king, Gustav III.

Under the Swedes, Gustavia was a thriving neutral, free port. The city attracted traders from around the globe and had a population double that of today. During this time, the Swedes built many of the architectural gems that remain.

A wedding car in Gustavia.

A wedding car in Gustavia.

Gustavia today is a mix of upmarket designer boutiques, glittering jewellery stores, cafes, restaurants and restored wooden and stone buildings from the Swedish era.

European style in downtown Gustavia.

European style in downtown Gustavia.

Despite the expensive boutiques and mega-boats moored in the harbour, the city remains a charming, unpretentious place to visit and wander. It’s small and compact and all sites can be visited on foot in half a day.
Saint-Bartholomew Anglican Church, Gustavia.

Saint-Bartholomew Anglican Church, Gustavia.

Sites include:

  • Saint-Bartholomew Anglican Church – Located on Rue du Centenaire, this church was built in 1885 with stones brought from Statia.
  • Wall House Museum – Located at the far end of La Pointe on the waterfront next to the Hotel de Collectivite, this small museum contains an eclectic mix of displays providing an overview of the history of the island. Displays are in French and Swedish.
  • Forts – There are three forts in Gustavia, Fort Karl, Fort Gustav and Fort Oscar – all of them very much in ruins.
  • Shopping – The main shopping street in Gustavia is Rue de la République. Here you will find lots of expensive boutiques where you can empty your wallet.
A vintage Fiat in Gustavia.

A vintage Fiat in Gustavia.

Around the Island

With Gustavia being the only town, the rest of the island is comprised of small villages lining beaches nestled in picturesque coves and bays. With a rental car you can drive around the entire island in 2-hours. A more relaxed tour would take a full day.

Colombier Beach

Colombier Beach is a popular north coast beach.

Colombier Beach is a popular north coast beach.

Located in the north-western part of the island, this crescent shaped beach offers calm waters and good snorkeling. It’s a 20-min walk down to the beach from the main road. There are no facilities so you will need to carry all your own food/ drinks in with you.

A view of the north coast of St. Barts.

A view of the north coast of St. Barts.

Anse du Gouverneur

Entrance to Anse de Gouverneur beach.

Entrance to Anse de Gouverneur beach.

Located on the south side of the island, a short drive over a steep hill from Gustavia, this secluded beach (main photo) offers brilliant white sand and sparkling turquoise water. The wide sweep of sand ensures there is plenty of room for everyone.

The pristine Gouverneur Beach is the finest on St. Barts.

The pristine Gouverneur Beach is the finest on St. Barts.

Accommodation

Typical accommodation on St. Barts - a deluxe villa.

Typical accommodation on St. Barts – a deluxe villa.

The large scale hotel developments found on other Caribbean islands are not permitted on tiny and exclusive St. Barts. Hotels on the island tend to be small and intimate, with luxury villas comprising 70% of accommodation.

While St. Barts offers the visitor the opportunity to spend $20,000 per night on a luxury villa, you can also find a comfortable room for under $200 per night.

If you wish to book a private villa, it’s best to contact the owner or booking agent directly.

If you wish to book a more affordable hotel, it’s best to book using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

St. Barts is part of the French West Indies and generally caters to a wealthy clientele. As such cuisine on the island is taken very seriously.

There is no shortage of exclusive fine dining restaurants but you can also find reasonably priced cafes and restaurants where mere mortals can afford to eat.

A great place for lunch is the wonderfully unpretentious Restaurant O’Corail, which is located directly on the beach at Grand Cul de Sac. The affordable menu offers a range of exceptionally well done meals, all using local produce. There is a dive centre next door if you wish to burn off some calories after lunch.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for St. Barts – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

A Winair flight from St. Martin, landing on the very short runway at St. Barts.

A Winair flight from St. Martin, landing on the very short runway at St. Barts.

International flights arrive at Gustaf III Airport (named after King Gustav III of Sweden), also known as Saint Barthélemy Airport, which is located in the village of St. Jean, a 10-min drive over the hill from Gustavia.

This airport has been ranked as one of the most dangerous in the world, boasting the second-shortest commercial runway at 650-m (the shortest is on neighbouring Saba).

Only small planes can land here and must first clear a slope before landing on the short airstrip, which ends abruptly at the beach.

The following airlines provide international connections:

  • Air Antilles Express – services to Guadeloupe
  • St Barth Commuter – services to Antigua, Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin
  • Tradewind Aviation – services to Antigua, US Virgin Islands (Saint Thomas), Puerto Rico (San Juan)
  • Winair – services to Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin

By Sea

The Voyager fast ferry (seen here at its dock at Oyster Pond, St. Martin) offers the best connection between St. Martin and St. Barts.

The Voyager fast ferry (seen here at its dock at Oyster Pond, St. Martin) offers the best connection between St. Martin and St. Barts.

There are daily fast ferry connections between Saint Martin and Saint Barts operated by the Voyager ferry company. Services run between Gustavia and Marigot (St-Martin), and between Gustavia and Oyster Pond (St-Martin). From Marigot, the journey is 90-minutes; from Oyster Pond, the ride is 30-minutes. Check the website for schedules and fares. I travelled to St. Barts from Oyster Pond with Voyager. It’s a fast comfortable journey across the Saint Barthélemy Channel.

From Philipsburg (Sint Maarten), Great Bay Express offers a daily fast ferry service (40-min) to Gustavia. Check their website for schedule and fares.

Getting Around

The license plate of my rental car on St. Barts.

The license plate of my rental car on St. Barts.

There is no public transport on the island. You either walk, hitch a ride or hire a car.

The best option for exploring the island is to hire a rental car. There are loads of agencies in Gustavia and at the airport. Most cars are manual transmission and compact, which is a good thing as most of the roads are narrow and windy.

There are two petrol stations on the island, one near the airport and one at Lorient beach. Both are closed on Sunday.

Taxis are also available from one of the two taxi stations on the island (airport and Gustavia). There are no meters or fixed tariffs. Fares can be expensive so it’s best to confirm the cost before you commence your journey.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Saint Barts Travel Guide Saint Barts Travel Guide Saint Barts Travel Guide Saint Barts Travel Guide Saint Barts Travel Guide

Guadeloupe Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
Cascade aux Ecrevisses at the Guadeloupe National Park.

Guadeloupe Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Guadeloupe Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Resembling a butterfly, Guadeloupe is comprised of two very different islands, separated by a narrow channel – the Salée River. To the west (left wing) lies Basse-Terre – a mountainous, volcanic island. To the east (right wing) lies Grande-Terre – a flat piece of raised limestone sea bed.

Guadeloupe National Park.

Guadeloupe National Park.

Part of the Lesser Antilles, Guadeloupe is located north of Dominica, south of Antigua & Barbuda and south-east of Montserrat. A regular ferry service connects Guadeloupe to Dominica, Martinique and St. Lucia. For more on this, see the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

Location

As with Martinique to the south, Guadeloupe is an overseas department of France and if you are arriving from one of the neighbouring Anglo-Caribbean islands you will notice a big difference in the standard of living – all thanks to generous French subsidies.

History

Like neighbouring islands, the original settlers on Guadeloupe were the native Arawak Indians, who arrived from modern day Venezuela. They were eventually replaced by the more aggressive Carib Indians.

Christopher Columbus made landfall here on his second voyage to the Americas in November 1493. He named the island Santa María de Guadalupe de Extremadura, after the image of the Virgin Mary venerated at the Spanish monastery in Guadalupe, a monastery he had once visited. As with other neighbouring islands, the Caribs were strong defenders of their land so the Spanish never settled on the island.

However in 1635, French explorers landed on the island and decided it would be a good place to grow tobacco. A French trading company sent a small army of men (550) to the island to wage battle against the Carib Indians. The war lasted 3 years but eventually the French gained control of the island.

In addition to tobacco, sugar plantations were also established. In its heyday, Guadeloupe produced more sugar than all the British islands combined. Slave labour was imported from West Africa to work on the plantations. The population of Guadeloupe today is 410,335, mainly comprised of descendants of the slaves. After slavery was abolished, indentured labourers were imported from India.

At one stage Britain held control of the island but traded it for Canada during the Treaty of Paris.

Cactus on Basse-Terre.

Cactus on Basse-Terre.

Today tourism is a key industry, with 83% of tourists being French. English is not widely spoken on the island, so a little français speaking ability is useful.

Sightseeing

Around Basse-Terre

Deshaies

Located on the north-west coast of Basse-Terre, Deshaies is home to some fine sandy beaches, including Leroux beach, Petit Anse and Grand Anse.

Grand Anse provides a magnificent stretch of golden sand, gorgeous water and shady palm trees. Parking on the weekend can be a nightmare.

Pointe-Noire

Cocoa tree at La Maison du Cacao.

Cocoa tree at La Maison du Cacao.

On the highway in Pointe-Noire you will find La Maison du Cacao. Here you can walk around a small trail where you learn about the history of cacao. At the end of the trail is a visitor’s centre where enthusiastic guides provide a presentation (in French) on cacao and the chocolate making process. During the presentation you get to try different types of chocolate and tropical fruits.

Cacao beans at the Maison du Cacao.

Cacao beans at the Maison du Cacao.

Pigeon Island

Pigeon Island is a gem! So much so, it has been designated the Cousteau Marine Park and a bust of the famous commander has been installed in a Coral Garden at a depth of 12-m. It is considered one of the best dive sites in the Caribbean.

The coral reef and fauna are in excellent condition and the sea life is abundant. There are impressive slopes on either side of the island which drop down to 40-60 metres. Another added bonus is the close proximity to the mainland – a 5-minute boat ride away.

There are plenty of dive operators located around adjacent Malendure Beach. I did a dive with Les Heures Saines (English spoken), who I would recommend.

Guadeloupe National Park

Cascade aux Ecrevisses are a highlight of the Guadeloupe National Park.

Cascade aux Ecrevisses are a highlight of the Guadeloupe National Park.

A highlight of Basse-terre, the Guadeloupe National Park is heaven for those who like to hike. The park occupies a huge chunk of the centre of this mountainous island and can be easily accessed via the islands’ main traverse road (route D23).

A nice hike is to the Cascade aux Ecrevisses, which can be reached via a short hiking trail from the main road. There is a visitors centre at the trail-head, which provides information about the flora and fauna of the park.

Walking trails are clearly marked but you should ensure you are wearing proper footwear – not a place for your Havaianas. The swimming here is refreshing – a great place to relax and cool off.

Vieux Habitants

Coffee beans for sale at Cafe Chaulet, Basse-Terre.

Coffee beans for sale at Cafe Chaulet, Basse-Terre.

If you are passing through the town of Vieux Habitants and are in need of a caffeine fix, you could do worse than stop by Cafe Chaulet.

Here you can visit a small museum, which provides a history of coffee production on the island. You can taste their coffee (very nice) but there is a charge for this (not very nice). There is a gift shop selling all types of over-priced souvenirs and of course you can purchase their coffee.

Overall this place is a tourist trap and not worth going out of your way for but if you are passing through it’s worth 5-minutes of your time.

Around Grande-Terre

Unlike neighbouring Basse-Terre, Grande-Terre (which, despite its name, is actually smaller than Basse-Terre) is a huge slab of raised limestone sea floor. As such it is flatter and offers lots of powdery white sandy beaches, especially along the south coast.

St. Anne

Located on the south coast, St. Anne beach is absolutely wonderful, however everyone on the island knows this so it can get crowded. Parking can be difficult but worth the effort. You will be rewarded with powdery white sand and turquoise swimming water. There are lots of cafes and restaurants where you can refuel.

Accommodation

Guadeloupe Travel Report: Deluxe tree-house accommodation at Habitation Getz.

Deluxe tree-house accommodation at Habitation Getz.

You will find accommodation options scattered around both islands. Depending on the type of holiday you desire, you should base yourself either on Basse-Terre (nature, hiking, snorkeling, diving, beaches) or Grande-Terre (beaches).

I stayed in a tree house at Habitation Getz, located near the town of Vieux Habitants on the west coast of Basse-Terre. This charming, historic guest house offers accommodation in three different deluxe tree houses or the main house.

There are lots of accommodation options for all budgets available on booking.com

Eating Out

The cuisine of Guadeloupe features a mix of Creole and French influences. The island has a reputation for serving some of the best food in the Caribbean.

You will find plenty of restaurants specialising in French-Creole cuisine and international dishes. Seafood is popular and appears on most menus along with curry dishes.

Like the neighbouring Anglo-islands, Calaloo soup (a leafy vegetable similar to spinach) is a local favourite as a starter.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Guadeloupe – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

International flights arrive at the busy Pointe-à-Pitre International Airport, located 3-km north-east of Pointe-à-Pitre. The airport is the main hub for Air Caraïbes and Air Antilles Express.

The following airlines provide international connections:

  • Air Antilles Express – services to Antigua, Dominica (Douglas–Charles), Dominican Republic (Santo Domingo) Martinique, Puerto Rico, Saint Barthélemy, Sint Maarten
  • Air Canada – services to Montréal (Trudeau)
  • Air Caraïbes – services to Dominican Republic (Santo Domingo) Martinique, Paris (Orly), Saint Lucia (Vigie), Saint Martin, Sint Maarten
  • Air France – services to French Guiana, Martinique, Miami, Paris (Orly), Haiti (Port-au-Prince)
  • American Airlines – services to Miami
  • American Eagle – services to Miami
  • Corsair International – services to Paris (Orly)
  • Cubana De Aviacion – services to La Havana
  • LIAT – services to Antigua, Barbados, Dominica (Douglas–Charles)
  • Seaborne Airlines – services to Puerto Rico
  • Winair – services to Dominica (Douglas–Charles)
  • XL Airways – services to Paris (Charles de Gaulle)

By Sea

There is a scheduled ferry service connecting Guadeloupe with Dominica, Martinique and St. Lucia. The ferry terminal is located in downtown Pointe-à-Pitre. The service is operated by the Guadeloupe based Express-des-Iles. Check their website for schedules and fares.

Getting Around

With almost 2,000-km of roads, the road network on Guadeloupe is extensive and well-maintained with multi-lane freeways on both Basse-terre and Grande-terre. Roads are well signed so you’ll never get lost.

There is a comprehensive bus network on the island, with most routes originating from Pointe-à-Pitre.

Taxis are also available.

The best option for exploring the two islands is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. Unlike the neighbouring Anglo-islands, car rental on Guadeloupe is cheap. All of the international agents have offices at the airport and they offer large fleets of new French cars. Most cars on the island are manual – not automatic. Unlike the Anglo-islands, the French government does not raise revenue by forcing tourists to purchase a local driver’s license.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Guadeloupe Travel Guide Guadeloupe Travel Guide Guadeloupe Travel Guide Guadeloupe Travel Guide Guadeloupe Travel Guide

Martinique Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
The very punk-looking Antillean Crested Hummingbird.

Martinique Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Martinique Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2015

Introduction

Martinique is an overseas department of France and if you are arriving from one of the neighbouring Anglo-Caribbean islands you will notice a big difference in the standard of living – all thanks to generous French subsidies. The island has no natural resources and most of its economy is devoted to sugar production so subsidies are critical and hence calls for independence never gain traction.

The Madeira Hummingbird is a common sight on Martinique.

The Madeira Hummingbird is a common sight on Martinique.

Unlike the Anglo-islands, the French provide a regular ferry service, which connects Martinique to its neighbours and Guadeloupe – for more on this, see the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

Martinique is the 3rd largest island in the Lesser Antilles after Trinidad and Guadeloupe. The island is 70 km in length and 30 km wide and getting around is made easy thanks to investments by the French government in infrastructure and public transportation.

Location

Part of the Lesser Antilles, Martinique is located in the Caribbean sea, north of St. Lucia and south of Dominica.

Like its neighbours, Martinique is a volcanic island, lying along the fault-line where the North America plate slides beneath the Caribbean plate. The highest point is Mont Pelée (1,400m), an active volcano, which last erupted in 1902, destroying the capital of St. Pierre and killing 28,000 people in 2 minutes. Today the islands capital is Fort-de-France, which is out of reach of the destructive forces of Mont Pelée.

A Madeira Hummingbird on Martinique.

A Madeira Hummingbird on Martinique.

Culturally the island is very different to its neighbours, reflecting a distinctive blend of French and West Indian cultures.

Being a department of France, Martinique is an outpost of the European Union, along with neighbouring Guadeloupe and French Guiana in South America. Its currency is the Euro. All political decisions affecting the island are made thousands of miles away in Paris. In the past protests have erupted over the rising cost of living as most goods cost more on the island than on the mainland.

Madeira Hummingbird on Martinique.

Madeira Hummingbird on Martinique.

History

The island was originally inhabited by native Arawak, then Carib then the more aggressive Taino Indians. Columbus charted the island in 1493 but Spain had little interest in it.

A Carib Beer advertisement on Martinique.

A Carib Beer advertisement on Martinique.

The French arrived in 1635 after being expelled from St. Kitts by the British and settled the island. The French have maintained possession since that time except for three short periods when it was under British occupation. The island was used primarily for the production of sugar.

The very punk-looking Antillean Crested Hummingbird.

The very punk-looking Antillean Crested Hummingbird.

Martinique has a population of around 400,000, with an additional 260,000 Martiniquais living in mainland France. Most of the population is descended from African slaves brought to work on sugar plantations during the colonial era. Both French and Creole are widely spoken. Today tourism is a key industry.

Sightseeing

Fort-de-France

The 'Hotel de Ville' (Town Hall) in Fort-de-France.

The ‘Hotel de Ville’ (Town Hall) in Fort-de-France.

Fort-de-France is the capital and largest city (population: 90,000) of Martinique. The old town is small and compact and most sites can be covered on foot in one day.

Sites include:

Place de la Savane – This is a park where you will find cafes and restaurants and a vandalised (beheaded) statue of island native Joséphine de Beauharnais, first wife of Napoleon Bonaparte. It was vandalised in the 1990’s by individuals who blamed her for supporting the re-establishment of slavery on the island. Her parents were plantation owners.

A vandalised statue of Martinique-born Empress Josephine, the wife of Napoleon Bonaparte

A vandalised statue of Martinique-born Empress Josephine, the wife of Napoleon Bonaparte

Schoelcher Library – Designed by Gustave Eiffel, the entire library was first built in France then shipped piece by piece to Martinique as a monument to Victor Schoelcher the French abolitionist writer.

The Schoelcher Library in Fort-de-France, designed by Gustav Eiffel.

The Schoelcher Library in Fort-de-France, designed by Gustav Eiffel.

St. Louis Cathedral – Another Gustave Eiffel design, this is the 7th church to occupy the site, the previous six churches were destroyed by either fire, earthquakes or hurricanes. Eiffel designed the church with an iron frame for robustness.

St. Louis cathedral, Fort-de-France.

St. Louis cathedral, Fort-de-France.

The ferry terminal for the Express-des-Iles ferry (services to St. Lucia, Dominica and Guadeloupe) is located downtown. For more on this, see the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

Around the Island

St. Pierre

A ruined building in St. Pierre displays photos of some of the victims of the volcanic eruption which destroyed the former capital.

A ruined building in St. Pierre displays photos of some of the victims of the volcanic eruption which destroyed the former capital.

The site of the original French settlement and once known as the “Paris of the Caribbean”, the former capital – St. Pierre – was destroyed in minutes on the 8th of May 1902 when nearby Mont Pelée erupted, killing 28,000 people.

After the eruption refugees from Martinique fled to neighouring Dominica, where many remained. Shortly after the devastation, the capital was relocated south to Fort-de-France.

An abandoned building in St. Pierre, the former capital which was destroyed by a volcanic eruption.

An abandoned building in St. Pierre, the former capital which was destroyed by a volcanic eruption.

Today the town is back to life but many buildings have been kept untouched since the eruption as a historical reminder. All the sites can be covered on foot in a couple of hours.

Sites worth visiting include the Volcano museum, the ruins of the old theatre and the adjacent jail cell which, on the morning of the explosion, contained one prisoner (a local drunk) who was protected from the eruption by the thick stone walls and the poor ventilation of his dungeon-like cell. He was one of just 3 survivors. He was later pardoned for his crimes and then toured the United States as an act with the Barnum & Bailey circus.

Route des Rhums

From the nation who gave the world the ‘Route de Vin‘ comes the ‘Route des Rhums‘.

In the early 19th century, plantation owners, who were facing a decline in the global sugar market, turned to rum production as a way of supplementing their income.

Today there are no fewer than 10 rum distilleries on Martinique so it was fitting that the tourist office created the Route des Rhums.

An especially fine drop - Trois Rivieres Rum.

An especially fine drop – Trois Rivieres Rum.

The distilleries can be found all over the island so you are never far from your next tasting. They are educational and informative. I recommend visiting La Mauny and Trois Rivières, both located in the south of the island.

Martinique Travel Guide: Not to be out-done, La Mauny rum is also very quaffable.

Not to be out-done, La Mauny rum is also very quaffable.

Martinique Beaches

Martinique Travel Guide: Grand Anse des Salines beach.

Grand Anse des Salines beach.

There are many fine beaches in the south-west and at the southern end of the island.

The beach at Les Anses-d’Arlet offers good swimming and a reef 50 m offshore offers fantastic snorkeling. The town offers bars, cafes, restaurants and a popular French bakery.

Nearby Les Anses-d’Arlet is the smaller beach of Anse Dufour, which also offers good snorkeling. There are many fine dining options around the beach.

At the southern tip of the island is the remote but beautifully sweeping Grand Anse Des Salines. At the time of my visit the powdery white sand was covered in seaweed from recent storms.

Accommodation

Martinique is full of accommodation options. Many French expats have relocated to the island from the mainland and have established guest houses and B&B accommodation.

A highly recommended downtown option is Hotel Fort Savane, centrally located across the road from La Savane and a short walk from the ferry terminal – a good place to stay if you have an early departure the next day.

Being a French territory blessed with beautiful beaches, there is the ubiquitous Club Med – plus many other fine resorts.

Peak season is from December to April. Best to book in advance using an online agent such as booking.com

Eating Out

Market produce at Sainte-Anne market.

Market produce at Sainte-Anne market.

Being French you can be sure the culinary offerings on Martinique would be worth a trip on their own. Many chefs have relocated from France and have established fine dining restaurants.

The cuisine of Martinique is a hybrid, mixing elements of African, French, Carib Amerindian and South Asian traditions. 

One of its most famous dishes is the Colombo curry – a unique curry of chicken, meat or fish with vegetables, spiced with a distinctive Marsala of Tamil origins, tamarind and coconut milk or rum. I first tried this dish in French Guiana, it’s a favourite meal throughout the French Caribbean.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for Martinique – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By Air

Martinique’s airport is Martinique Aimé Césaire International Airport. Compared to the quiet, smaller, provisional airports on the neighbouring Anglo-islands, Martinique airport is a large, modern, busy terminal.

At the neighbouring Anglo-island airports, you are subjected to painfully slow immigration queues, however formalities on Martinique are fast and painless. If you hold a European passport you can expect to sail through immigration without stopping to have your passport stamped. Other passport holders will need to get their passports stamped but this takes just a few seconds. Unlike other islands, there is no arrival card to be completed.

The following airlines provide services to/ from Martinique:

  • Air Antilles Express – services to Dominica, Dominican Republic, Guadeloupe, Puerto Rico, Saint Lucia (Vigie)
  • Air Canada – services to Montreal (Trudeau)
  • Air Caraïbes – services to Paris (Orly), Guadeloupe, Dominican Republic, Saint Martin, Saint Lucia (Vigie)
  • Air France – services to French Guiana, Miami, Paris (Orly), Guadeloupe, Haiti (Port-au-Prince)
  • American Eagle – service to Miami
  • Condor (seasonal) – service to Frankfurt
  • Corsair International – service to Paris (Orly)
  • Cubana de Aviación – service to Havana
  • Gol Transportes Aéreos (seasonal) – service to São Paulo
  • LIAT – service to Barbados, Saint Lucia (Vigie)
  • Meridiana (seasonal) – service to Milan (Malpensa)
  • Norwegian Air Shuttle (seasonal) – service to Baltimore, Boston, New York (JFK)
  • Seaborne Airlines – service to Puerto Rico
  • XL Airways – service to Paris (Charles de Gaulle)

By Sea

There is a scheduled ferry service connecting Martinique with St. Lucia, Dominica and Guadeloupe. The ferry terminal is located in downtown Fort-de-France. The service is operated by the Guadeloupe based Express-des-Iles. Check their website for schedules and fares.

Getting Around

The road network on Martinique is extensive and well-maintained, with freeways in the area around Fort-de-France. Compared to the neighbouring Anglo-islands, the roads on Martinique are in excellent condition with lots of signage so you’ll never get lost.

There is a comprehensive bus network on the island, with most routes originating at the busy terminal in Fort-de-France.

Taxis are also available.

The best option for exploring this vast island is to hire a car upon arrival at the airport. Unlike the neighbouring Anglo-islands, car rental on Martinique is cheap. All of the international agents have offices at the airport and they offer large fleets of French cars. Most cars on the island are manual – not automatic.

Unlike the Anglo-islands, the French government does not raise revenue by forcing tourists to purchase a local drivers license.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Further Reading

Other travel reports from the Caribbean region include:

 

Martinique Travel Guide Martinique Travel Guide Martinique Travel Guide Martinique Travel Guide Martinique Travel Guide Martinique Travel Guie

French Guiana Travel Guide

9 years ago
Darren McLean
A red Macaw on Îles du Salut.

French Guiana Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel French Guiana Travel Guide!

Date of Visit: January 2015

Introduction

French Guiana (French: Guyane), is an overseas department and region of France, located on the north Atlantic coast of South America in the Guyanas.

It borders Brazil to the east and south, and Suriname to the west. The country has a population of 250,109 inhabitants, 50% of whom live in the capital Cayenne.

‘Guyana’ is derived from an Amerindian language and means “land of many waters”. As such, this country is not an ideal beach destination as the coastline is lined with huge rivers, which dump brown water into the Atlantic Ocean. If you are looking for blue water you need to head to the Caribbean.

Part of France since 1946, Guiana joined the European Union, and its official currency is the euro. The region is the most prosperous territory in South America with the highest GDP per capita. A large part of Guiana’s economy derives from the presence of the Guiana Space Centre, now the European Space Agency’s primary launch site near the equator.

Sightseeing

Saint Georges

I crossed the Oiapoque river from Brazil to the French Guianese town of Saint Georges. It’s strange to arrive in a town in South America and see the French flag and the European Union flag flying in the main square.

St. Georges is a quiet little transit town, nothing to do here except get your passport stamped and organise onward transport. Upon arrival, I reported to the immigration office where a friendly French gendarme stamped my passport in less than 30 seconds – a very easy entry for me but Brazilians require visas to visit their neighbour. See ‘Getting There‘ below for more details on crossing the border.

After entering the country I went to the bank to withdraw some Euros. I was about to discover that the cost of living in this French territory is very European.

I arrived in St. Georges early in the morning to see the locals walking out of the town boulangeries with freshly back baguettes under their arms – how very French. So different from Brazil where breakfast consists of chocolate cake.

I had to wait for my micro bus to fill with passengers for the 2 hour trip to Cayenne (excellent, fast road) so I took breakfast at a nice cafe on the main square. Everything in this town is a 5 minute walk.

From St. Georges I travelled onto the capital, Cayenne.

The newly-opened Oiapoque bridge connects Brazil and French Guiana.

The newly-opened Oiapoque bridge connects Brazil and French Guiana.

Cayenne

I arrived in Cayenne overland from Brazil. Upon arrival it was clear I was now in a very different part of the world. The population in the city is manly Creole with some Haitian, Brazilian, European, and Asian added to the mix.

The architecture is very different – lots of colourful wooden houses painted in tropical shades of turquoise, pinks and yellows. The music and most other cultural aspects are Creole influenced. It felt more like the Caribbean than South America.

The city is nice and compact, wonderfully quaint, welcoming and relaxing. In one day you can visit most sights on foot. In a city of 56,000 people, traffic is never heavy.

If you are in Cayenne during Carnival (January – March) you should ensure you catch the Sunday parade.

Place du Coq, Cayenne.

Located in downtown Cayenne, Place du Coq is named after the rooster which sits atop a column in the middle of the square.

Cayenne Pepper

A Cayenne Pepper Plant.

A Cayenne Pepper Plant. Image: Franz Eugen Köhler, Köhler’s Medizinal-Pflanzen

What is Cayenne pepper? For all the facts you can refer to this site.

Despite the pepper being named after Cayenne, most peppers are now grown elsewhere in the world. There are no specific purveyors of Cayenne pepper in Cayenne.

From Cayenne I travelled along the coast to Kourou – home of the Guiana Space Centre and jumping off point for trips to Îles du Salut.

Kourou

The Guiana Space Centre at Kourou.

The Guiana Space Centre at Kourou.

The Centre Spatial Guyanais (CSG) is a French and European spaceport near Kourou. The location for the space centre was chosen because it fulfils the two major geographical requirements of such a site:

  • it is quite close to the equator, so that the spinning earth can impart some extra velocity to the rockets for free when launched eastward, and
  • it has uninhabited territory (in this case, open sea) to the east, so that lower stages of rockets and debris from launch failures cannot fall on human habitations.
This Ariane rocket can carry a payload of 10t into space - enough to lift my car (foreground) into orbit.

This Ariane rocket can carry a payload of 10t into space – enough to lift my car (foreground) into orbit.

You can visit the Space centre on a guided visit (well worth it). The visits are popular and spaces are limited so it’s best to book ahead in advance. You can do so by contacting CSG.

Inside the launch control centre at the Kourou Space Centre.

Inside the launch control centre at the Kourou Space Centre.

Îles du Salut

Entrance to prison cells on Îles du Salut.

Entrance to prison cells on Îles du Salut.

The Îles du Salut (in English: Islands of Salvation, so called because the missionaries went there to escape plague on the mainland) are a group of small islands about 11 km off the coast near Kourou.

Squirrel Monkey on Îles du Salut.

Squirrel Monkey on Îles du Salut.

The islands were part of a notorious penal colony from 1852 onward for only the worst criminals of France. The islands were featured in the novel Papillon, by Henri Charrière. He was imprisoned here for 9 years.

The prison was shut down in 1953. Today the islands are a popular tourist destination and are full of wildlife.

You can reach the islands by catamaran from Kourou. You need to reserve and pay in advance. I visited with Tropic Alizés, who I would recommend.

French Guiana Travel Guide: Capuchin monkey on Îles du Salut.

Capuchin monkey on Îles du Salut.

Mana

This tiny town north of Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni is home to a remarkable restaurant – Le Buffalo.

If you’re in this part of the country it is worth the detour to eat here. The restaurant itself is housed in a simple wooden building with an equally simple interior. It is located on a quiet side street in this sleepy town (population: 800).

However the chef is a properly trained French chef who has relocated to Mana and brought his culinary skills with him. During your meal he will appear in the restaurant in his white chef’s uniform (including the ‘toque’ – traditional chef’s hat) to ensure everyone is enjoying their meals.

I especially recommend the carpaccio of buffalo.

Local ex-pats drive here from more distant towns for weekend lunches.

Tel: 594344280
Address: 36 Rue Javouhey, Mana 97360, French Guiana

The beaches near to Mana are nesting sites for the huge leather-back turtles.

From Mana I made the short journey south to Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni, my exit point from French Guiana.

Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni

With 40,000 inhabitants this is the 2nd largest town in French Guiana and the border crossing to Suriname.

The town was founded in 1858, it was formerly the arrival point for prisoners, who arrived at the Camp de la Transportation, the buildings of which have been restored and can be visited.

The town is small and compact and easily seen in half a day.

Entering Suriname from here is very easy – see the ‘Getting There‘ section below.

Camp de la Transportation in Saint Laurent du Maroni.

Camp de la Transportation in Saint Laurent du Maroni.

Accommodation

Hotels are in short supply in Cayenne (and elsewhere in the territory). It’s always best to book in advance using an online agent such as booking.com

In Cayenne, I stayed downtown at Hotel Le Dronmi, which I would recommend. The hotel is conveniently located to everything of interest.

Eating Out

This is a former French colony – need I say more. Lots of good food available throughout the territory.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for French Guiana – check your requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By plane

French Guiana’s main international airport is Cayenne – Félix Eboué Airport, located south of the city centre.

The following airlines provide flights to/ from Cayenne:

Air Caraïbes – flies to/ from Fort-de-France, Paris-Orly, Pointe-à-Pitre
Air France – flies to/ from Fort-de-France, Paris-Orly, Pointe-à-Pitre, Miami
Air Guyane – flies to/ from Grand Santi, Maripasoula, Paramaribo, Saint-Laurent du Maroni, Saül
Azul Brazilian Airlines – flies to/ from Belém, Fortaleza
Surinam Airways – flies to/ from Belém, Paramaribo

There are no bus services to the airport and of course the local taxi’s take full advantage of this by charging a flat fare of €35 to downtown Cayenne.

By Road/ River

To/ From Suriname

Crossing the river Maroni between French Guiana (Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni) and Suriname (Albina) is very easy and straight-forward.

The Immigration posts for each country are located on opposite banks of the river. There are many private pirogues who will ferry you across the river.

Once you cross you have taxis and shared transport that can get you to Paramaribo (2 hours) or to Cayenne (3 and a half hours). Roads on both sides are in excellent condition.

Some nationalities require visas for Suriname (e.g. Australian) – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

To/ From Brazil

Update: since this was written the long-unused suspension bridge between St George d’Oiapok (French Guiana) and Oiapoque (Brazil) is now operational.

There are nightly buses from Macapa to the border town of Oiapoque. The road is mostly paved and the trip takes about 10 hours. I arrived at the small bus station in Oiapoque at 5 am and was informed I would need to wait until 8 am for the Brazilian immigration office to open. I joined my fellow transit passengers and slept in the bus station where there were some comfortable wooden benches to stretch out on.

At 8 am I took a taxi to the immigration office to get my exit stamp then down to the port for the crossing by pirogue to St. Georges.

From the river you can see the huge new bridge, which links French Guiana with Brazil. This was completed in 2011 at a cost of $33 million but still remains unopened. The French are waiting for the Brazilians who have promised to have all infrastructure in place and the bridge open in time for the Rio Olympics in 2016.

Once you reach the dock in St. Georges you will be greeted by micro bus drivers who can transport you to Cayenne. You will first need to get your passport stamped at the Gendarmerie (Police Station), which is inconveniently located on the outskirts of town (a 15 minute walk).

Some nationalities require visas for Brazil (e.g. Australian) – check your visa requirements prior to arrival.

Getting Around

Public transport is sporadic throughout the country. The best option, allowing you to maximise your time, is to hire a car. I did a one-way rental from Cayenne to Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the region include:

French Guiana Travel Guide French Guiana Travel Guide French Guiana Travel Guide French Guiana Travel Guide French Guiana Travel Guide

Cayenne Carnival

9 years ago
Darren McLean
A Cayenne Carnival Participant.

Cayenne Carnival

Welcome to the taste2travel Cayenne Carnival feature!

Date of Visit: January 2015

Introduction

Carnival in French Guiana takes place each year between Epiphany in early January and Ash Wednesday in February or March. Every Sunday during this period, there is a parade on the streets of Cayenne, making this the longest running of any carnival in the Caribbean region.

Feature: Cayenne Carnival

Carnival à la Cayenne is a cultural tradition of the French Guianese Creole, its origin traced to carnival customs long practised in Europe. It debuted during the beginning of colonisation when settlers took part in carnival, forbidding the slaves from participating. Defying the ban, the slaves practised carnival in clandestine ways, seeing it as a way to regain some freedom.

French Guiana

The ornate handmade masks continue being/ are an integral part of Mardi Gras culture. To this day they symbolise the notion of freedom, of escaping class constraints and social demands. Wearing masks during the festivities lets us all become equal, individuals can mingle with the masses and ultimately everyone can be whoever they’d like, at least for a few weeks.

Feature: Cayenne Carnival

Feature: Cayenne Carnival

Feature: Cayenne Carnival

 

Accommodation

Hotels are in short supply in Cayenne (and elsewhere in the territory). It’s always best to book in advance using an online agent such as booking.com

I stayed downtown at Hotel Le Dronmi, which I would recommend. The hotel is conveniently located to everything of interest plus it’s on the parade route.

Eating Out

This is a former French colony – need I say more. Lots of good food available in this town.

A great place to chill out and people watch is the terrace at Les Palmistes. This is the quintessential bar/restaurant in Cayenne. Located across from the square of the same name.

Visa Requirements

Some nationalities require visas for French Guiana – check your requirements prior to arrival.

Getting There

By plane

French Guiana’s main international airport is Cayenne – Félix Eboué Airport, located south of the city centre. There are two flights a day to Paris served by Air France and Air Caraïbes with services also to Martinique, Guadeloupe, Paramaribo (Suriname) and Belém (Brazil).

While there are no buses serving the airport, you can either rent a car or pay an extortionate amount (€35 to central Cayenne) for an airport taxi.

By road

From both neighbouring countries (Brazil and Suriname), you will need to cross a river by ferry into French Guiana. The border crossings are easy and straight-forward.

From Brazil, you will arrive in Saint-Georges de l’Oyapock from where you can travel by bus to Cayenne. In 2011, a newly built bridge was completed (at a cost of $33 million) linking Brazil and French Guiana, but it is still yet to be opened.

From Suriname you will step off the ferry in Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni from where you can take a bus to Iracoubo and transfer to another going to Cayenne.

Getting Around

Public transport is sporadic throughout the country. The best option is to hire a car. This is a French territory so roads are in excellent condition.

Safe Travels!

Darren

Follow me on Instagram: 

 

Further Reading

Other travel reports from the region include: