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Seychelles Travel Guide

5 years ago

Seychelles Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Seychelles Travel Guide!

Date Visited: April 2019

Introduction

Home to some of the most spectacularly beautiful beaches on planet Earth, the Seychelles is a magical destination which will cast a spell over anyone who ventures to her shores.

Located on Praslin island, Anse Lazio beach is sublimely beautiful in the early morning light.

Officially the Republic of Seychelles, the country is an island nation which sits in the Indian Ocean, 1,600 km (994 mi) off the east coast of Africa. The 115 idyllic, Granitic islands of this pristine archipelago nation are considered some of the oldest on earth. Once part of the ancient super-continent of Gondwana, it’s believed the islands have been separated from other continents for 75 million years.

Souvenir shop at the Takamaka distillery on the island of Mahé.

Home to 90,000 inhabitants, most of the islands remain uninhabited, while 99% of the population live on the three main islands of Mahé, Praslin and La Digue, all of which are covered in this report.

The Coat of arms of the Seychelles on display at the National Museum of History in Victoria.

Mahé is the largest island, the only entry point to the Seychelles, and home to the capital city of Victoria. While I enjoyed exploring Mahé, the highlights for me were the two smaller islands of Praslin and La Digue, both exquisite and both a short boat ride away.

The many terracotta-coloured, granite boulders provide a stark contrast against the turquoise waters and blue skies of the Seychelles, such as this one on Anse Lazio, Praslin Island.

What’s so strikingly unique about the Seychelles are the giant granite boulders which dot the landscape. It’s these boulders which add a certain surreal magic to the many beaches as they contrast so starkly against the white-sand, turquoise water and brilliantly blue skies.

It’s largely because of these ancient stones that the beaches of the Seychelles are often voted the most beautiful in the world, which is the case with the mesmerisingly beautiful Anse Source d’Argent (cover photo) on the tiny island of La Digue.

While there’s no denying the beauty of this beach, there are many others, nearby, which are just as incredible. One of my favourites is Petite Anse which is located on La Digue, a short bicycle ride from Anse Source d’Argent. On each of the three main islands, you will find breath-taking beauty, even away from the famed beaches.

The Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve is the best place to see the endemic ‘Coco-de-mer’ palm.

One of the non-beach highlights for me was a visit to the Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve, which is located on the island of Praslin and is one of two UNESCO World Heritage sites in the Seychelles. The park is home to the world’s largest population of the native ‘Coco-de-mer‘ palm, which produces the largest coconut in the world.

With tourism being the main source of income, the environment on the Seychelles is always kept pristine.

The Seychelles market’s itself as a deluxe holiday destination and as such, travel costs are not cheap. This is not a budget destination and, while travelling around the country, I didn’t meet any backpackers.

Most visitors to the Seychelles are well heeled Europeans who come either for a holiday or their honeymoon. Tourism is the #1 economic activity for the country, contributing to 67% of GDP in 2018. The islands, and environment, are kept pristine by a government who appreciates the value that tourism brings to the country.

Grand Anse on the island of La Digue, just one of many stunning beaches to be found in the Seychelles.

If you have the budget and wish to explore a special destination, one which offers spellbinding scenery, a unique Creole culture, and a high degree of convenience and comfort, the Seychelles is for you.

Location

Victoria, Seychelles

An African nation, which boasts the highest standard of living in Africa, the Seychelles lies 1,600 km (994 mi) east of Kenya; 1824 km ( mi) northeast of Madagascar; 1,755 km (1,090 mi) north of Mauritius (click the links to view my guides); 1,826 km (1134 mi) north of Réunion and 1,450 km (900 mi) northeast of Mayotte.

The view from Beau Vallon beach towards Silhouette Island.

While the country encompasses an area of 1,336,559 square km (516,048 square mi), the landmass equates to just 452 square km (175 square mi).

Currency

The front of the Seychelles 50 rupee note features the Black Parrot.

Issued by the Central Bank of Seychelles (CBS), the Seychellois rupee (Rs) is the official currency of the Seychelles. In December of 2016, the CBS issued a new family of notes and coins which feature endemic fauna and flora.

The currency trades under the international code of SCR and is currently trading at a rate of USD$1 = 13.70 SCR.

The back of the Seychelles 50 rupee note features the Seychelles Tree Frog.

The rupee, which is divided into 100 cents, constitutes four notes in denominations of Rs 25, Rs 50, Rs 100 and Rs 500. Coins are issued in denominations of 1¢, 5¢, 10¢, 25¢, Rs 1 and Rs 5. Prices for tourist services are often quoted in Euro (€).

Tip: When leaving the country, it’s best not to carry anything more than a few souvenir notes as it’s impossible to exchange the rupee outside of the Seychelles.

Costs

At just US$20, a bottle of Coconut rum from the folks at the Takamaka distillery is an affordable souvenir of the Seychelles.

Travel costs are not cheap in the Seychelles. Like neighbouring Mauritius, tourism is the main economic activity, with the country catering to mid-range and top-end tourists. Travelling on a budget can be challenging, however, self-catering, Airbnb apartments are a saviour for more frugal travellers, although these can cost upwards of US$100.

Despite having a small agricultural sector, Seychelles imports 90% of the food it consumes, which results in high food prices in supermarkets and in restaurants. While most restaurant menus feature shrimp, which tourist’s love to order, almost all shrimp is imported.

Suggested daily budgets:

Backpacker: Up to USD$160 per day.
Flashpacker: Between USD$160-$330 per day.
Top-End: USD$330+

Sample costs:

Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): Rs 26 (US$1.90)
Water (0.33 litre bottle): Rs 17 (US$1.25)
Cappuccino: Rs 56 (US$4.11)
Bus ticket with SPTC: Rs 7 (US$0.51)
Car Rental (daily compact car with Hertz): Rs 890 (US$65)
Litre of fuel: Rs 19 (US$1.39)
Meal (inexpensive restaurant): Rs 250 (US$18.30)
Meal for 2 (mid-range restaurant): Rs 1,000 (US$73.00)
Self-catering apartment (La Villa Therese, Anse Royale): Rs 1,300 (US$95)
Room in a top-end hotel (Four Seasons Seychelles): Rs 20,500 (US$1,500)

Philately

This definitive stamp from 2012 makes for an affordable souvenir at just US$0.15 each.

Stamps from the Seychelles are popular among philatelists worldwide, with many issues featuring the colourful fauna and flora of the islands.

The colourful marine life of the islands is a popular subject for stamp issues.

Affordably priced stamps, which make unique souvenirs and gifts, can be purchased from the friendly staff at the Seychelles Post Philatelic bureau, which is located inside the Central Post Office, on Independence Ave, opposite the Seychelles National museum.

People

Shopping in Victoria.

Although the islands of the Seychelles were known to Portuguese and Arab sailors, the archipelago remained uninhabited until the first settlers arrived on board the French ship Thélemaque, which landed on Mahé on the 27th of August 1770 from Mauritius (another French colony at the time).

The French established plantations on Mahé, importing large numbers of African, creole, slaves from Mauritius to the Seychelles. These slaves became the ancestors of the present population and today, the descendants of these slaves constitute 70% of the entire population.

Under the French and British, a number of Indian slaves, and later, indentured labourers were introduced into the mix and today the descendants of these labourers constitute 1/8th of the total population.

Flag

The flag of the Seychelles.

If you have an interest in vexillology, you’ll be interested to know that the flag of the Seychelles features five oblique bands of blue, yellow, red, white and green radiating from the bottom of the hoist side. The colours represent:

Blue: depicts the sky and the sea that surrounds the Seychelles.
Yellow: depicts the sun which gives light and life.
Red: symbolises the people.
White: represents social justice and harmony
Green: depicts the land and natural environment.

Sightseeing

Mahé

The best way to explore the quiet back roads of Mahé is with a rental car.

Victoria

With a population of 26,000 inhabitants (a quarter of the total population), Victoria is the capital and largest city of the Seychelles. Situated on the north-eastern coast of Mahé, this small capital was originally established by the French, who called it L’Etablissement, it was renamed by the British, in 1841, after Queen Victoria.

A small and compact city, the sights of Victoria can be covered on foot in less than a day. The narrow streets of the downtown area were clearly created in the days of horse and buggy, and today, are constantly jammed with traffic. The narrow roads don’t allow space for parking and there are no multi-level municipal car parks. Parking spaces, which are extremely limited, can be found in a few, ground-level parking lots, most of which are permanently full of cars, belonging to local commuters. It is a nightmare to arrive by car, much better to take the bus.

Clock Tower

A busy roundabout, the clock tower stands at the centre of the capital Victoria.

The focal point of downtown Victoria is the antique, silver clock tower which stands at the centre of town and serves as a busy roundabout. Modelled on London’s Little Ben, Lorloz, as it’s locally known, was erected in 1903 when the Seychelles became a Crown colony.

National Museum of History

The National Museum of History is housed in the former colonial-era Supreme court building.

Housed in the restored, former Supreme Court building (1885), the National Museum of History was reopened in 2018 following a complete refurbishment.

This modern museum uses technology and digital, interactive, displays to tell the history of the Seychelles. The outstanding displays cover political, economic and social aspects along with Creole culture and national emblems.

Access: Open every day except Sunday. Tickets cost Rs 150 (USD$11) for tourists.

The National Museum of History tells the story of the Seychelles through colourful artworks by local artists.

St. Paul’s Anglican Church

The window above the narthex of St. Paul’s features Jesus floating above a typical Seychellois island with granite boulders, palm trees and an Aldabra giant tortoise.

Located a short walk from the clock tower, the non-descript exterior of the unassuming St. Paul’s Cathedral belies its interesting interior. Originally consecrated in 1859 by the first Bishop of Mauritius, the current church, which serves as the seat of the Bishop of Seychelles, dates from 2004.

What makes this cathedral worth visiting are the numerous, very colourful, stained-glass windows which depict religious scenes in a distinctly Seychellois setting. The presence of these truly local works of art are not apparent from the exterior, with most tourists passing by the church without entering

Another colourful window depicts ‘Madonna and Child’ in a typical Seychellois setting, on a white-sand beach surround by palm trees and granite boulders.

As you enter the church, it’s easy to miss the large window, above and behind your head, which shows Jesus floating above a typical white-sand, Seychelles beach, surrounded by palm trees, the ubiquitous granite boulders and even an Aldabra giant turtle. If you do miss Jesus when entering, you will not miss him when exiting as he looms large over you.

Elsewhere, the classic ‘Madonna and Child’ appears on a white-sand beach, surrounded by palm trees and more granite boulders. There are many more windows which are just as photogenic.

Sri Navasakthi Vinayagar Temple

Dedicated to Ganesh, the Sri Navasakthi Vinayagar Temple is the only Hindu temple in the Seychelles.

Located on Quincy street, a short walk from St. Paul’s, is the strikingly beautiful Sri Navasakthi Vinayagar Temple, the only Hindu temple in the Seychelles. The temple serves as a centre of worship for the members of the local Hindu community, most of whom originate from Tamil Nadu in India.

A shrine at the Sri Navasakthi Vinayagar Temple.

Consecrated in 1992, the temple is dedicated to Ganesh, who makes numerous appearances on the striking multi-tiered tower above the main door. The tower is inspired by the Dravidian architecture of Southern India, which is prominent in Tamil Nadu. The temple is free to visit, provided you remove your shoes.

Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market

The Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market is a great place to buy local produce and souvenirs.

Opposite the Hindu temple is the sprawling, bustling central market, the Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market. Originally built in 1840, the market is named after a former British Governor of the Seychelles, who governed from 1947–1951.

The market is the bustling heart of the capital and is the best place to buy produce and locally made souvenirs (much cheaper here than elsewhere). The market is built on two levels, with produce stalls on the ground floor (including local spice shops), and restaurants and souvenir boutiques on the upper floor.

Beau Vallon

Beau Vallon is famous for its spectacular sunsets.

Located on a long stretch of sand on the north-west coast, the tourist hub of Beau Vallon is arguably the island’s most famous and popular beach, with white sand stretching for kilometres along the coast.

Located a short (15 min) drive over a steep hill from Victoria, Beau Vallon is home to many restaurants, resorts, hotels, guest houses, Airbnb properties and one nightclub. If you wish to stay somewhere with all the usual tourist facilities, this is the place.

A traditional fishing boat on Beau Vallon beach.

This beach-side playground is famous for its long sandy beach, spectacular sunsets and lively nightlife – well – lively for the Seychelles. If you’re looking for nightlife, Beau Vallon is the only place on Mahé which parties after dark.

The silhouette of Silhouette island, as seen from Beau Vallon beach.

Thanks to the clear waters of the bay, and the coral reefs, Beau Vallon is the best place on Mahé for snorkelling and diving, with numerous dive shops located along the beach front.

Lying 20-km offshore is Silhouette Island, which is the third largest granitic island in the Seychelles. The island is home to 200 souls who work at the exclusive Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort & Spa where rooms cost around US$500 per night.

Takamaka Rum Distillery

The Takamaka white rum is a popular mixer, used in many local cocktails.

Now to one of my favourite subjects – Rum!

Located on the east coast at historic La Plaine St. André, the Takamaka Rum distillery is the only producer of rum in the Seychelles, producing 8 different varieties using local ingredients, including spring water from the Vallée de Mai on Praslin and sugarcane from local growers.

Owned by the d’Offay family, the distillery is centred around a beautifully restored, Plantation house which was built by French settlers in 1792, as part of an estate which originally grew cinnamon and other spices. In 2002, the plantation house, which is a national heritage site, was leased by the family who then restored it to serve as the centrepiece of their Trois Frères Distillery. Today it houses a very fine cafe and gift shop.

A friendly staff member at Takamaka rum conducting a tour.

Next door to the house, the small distillery is open for tours which are very informative and entertaining. Tickets cost Rs 250 (USD$18.33), which includes a short tour and a rum tasting. Tours are conducted twice daily (11.30 am and 1.30 pm) from Monday to Friday.

Once squeezed of its juice, the leftover sugarcane is returned to the farmers to be used as fertiliser.

The rums produced by the distillery are very quaffable and can be sampled all over the Seychelles, with most bars featuring Takamaka rum prominently on their cocktail lists. My pick of their range is their ‘Spiced‘ rum which is distilled using a secret combination of local spices, creating a very smooth and velvety character rum.

Anse Royale

With its shallow water, Anse Royale beach is a popular swimming beach on Mahé.

Continuing further south along the east coast, quiet Anse Royale is home to a stretch of small granite rock-fringed coves. The shallow waters and powdery white sand make the beaches popular with bathers.

There are numerous guest houses in the area, including La Villa Therese (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below for more details) which was my first residence in the Seychelles.

Baie Lazare

A panoramic view over Baie Lazare, one of the finest beaches on the south-west coast of Mahé.

Baie Lazare is named after the French explorer Lazare Picault, who in 1742, landed on Mahé and claimed the island for France. The beach combines all the usual Seychelles elements, white sand, clear water and granite boulders, making it a popular destination for visitors and locals.

The Seychelles is a popular destination for weddings and honeymoons.

The largest resort in the area is the Kempinski Seychelles where a room will set you back almost US$1000 per night. The wide sandy beach of Baie Lazare is a popular wedding venue.

Port Launay Marine Park

A view of Port Launay Marine Park on Mahé.

Towards the end of the road along the north-west coast, lies the very picturesque, Port Launay Marine Park. This large, horseshoe-shaped bay, is ringed by a white sand beach which is surrounded by lush, green vegetation. Being a protected marine park, snorkelling is excellent with an abundance of marine life. The deep waters of the bay make this a popular anchorage for visiting yachts.

The one resort in the area is the deluxe (of course!) Constance Ephelia where rooms start at US$500 per night.

Storm clouds over the Port Launay Marine Park.

Praslin

If you think the beaches on Mahé are beautiful, wait until you set foot on Praslin. The beaches here are on another level, with incredibly clear, turquoise water, the finest, whitest sand you could ever imagine and granite boulders which look like they have been deliberately placed by a landscape gardener.

Anse Volbert

Gorgeous Anse Volbert is the main tourist hub on Praslin.

Stretching for 2.5 km along the east coast, Anse Volbert beach is the longest on Praslin and the most popular. At low tide, the strip of sand is 6 metres wide, at low tide, the beach disappears. The white sand is the finest of any beach I’ve ever visited – anywhere! When wet the sand has the look and feel of a polished, white-marble floor.

The beach offers many activities including swimming, snorkelling, windsurfing, scuba diving, fishing, and sailing. Lining the beach are a string of restaurants, cafés, guest houses and boutique resorts. All of this combines to make Anse Volbert the most popular tourist destination on the island.

If you wish to hire a rental car, there are many agents in this neighbourhood (see the ‘Rental Car‘ section below for more details).

Scuba Diving

Some final advice from the owners of Octopus Diver prior to boarding the dive boat.

If you enjoy scuba diving, the seas around Anse Volbert offer some amazing dive sites and colourful reefs. I dived with Octopus Diver who operate a PADI 5-star dive shop which is located on the beach. The shop offers diving twice a day, with a two-tank diving costing €115 (USD$128).

On board the Octopus diver boat, heading to the first dive site.

Note: I was warned by the owners of my guest house to never give money to anyone on Anse Volbert beach who might claim to be representing a company which offers aquatic activities, even if these people are wearing a shirt from the company.

These fake salesmen are small-time criminals who make money by selling fake activities to unwitting tourists, who think they are paying a deposit on a service. The con-man then disappears with your money, leaving you holding some bogus receipt.

This criminal activity also affects Octopus Diver with reports on the internet from irate customers who believe they have been fleeced by a genuine employee of the shop.

You should only pay for any activities directly at the shop.

Booby Island gets its name from the numerous flocks of boobies who nest here.

I signed up for a two-tank dive, with the first dive taking place around Booby island. A perfectly round, cone-shaped, granite rock, the island is uninhabited and home to nesting boobies. The dive involved swimming around the island at a depth of 20 metres. An easy dive in terms of orientation!

Surface interval was conducted alongside Curieuse island.

The surface interval between dives took place at beautiful Baie Laraie which is the main landing point for visitors to Curieuse island. The entire island is designated as a national park and we were warned not to swim to shore, otherwise we would have to pay the park entrance fee of €70 (USD$77).

The second dive took place at a site near to St. Pierre island, which is another uninhabited granite rock, located between Praslin and Curieuse island. I would recommend diving with Octopus Diver.

Anse Lazio

The best time to photograph Anse Lazio is in the early morning before the tourist hordes arrive.

While Anse Source d’Argent is the must-see beach on La Digue, Anse Lazio is the must-see beach on Praslin. Located at the end of the road on the north-east coast, Anse Lazio combines a magical mix of elements – clear, turquoise water, golden sand, palm trees and huge granite boulders. It’s no wonder that, along with Anse Source d’Argent, this beach is also often voted as one of the most beautiful in the world.

Due to its popularity, the beach receives swarms of tourists, who head here once they’ve finished their hotel buffet breakfast. If you wish to photograph the beach, without lots of people, you need to arrive before 8 am.

Vallée de Mai

Offering numerous walking trails, Vallée de Mai is a remnant of an ancient palm jungle.

Located in the centre of Praslin, on the one cross-island road, is the Praslin National Park. The highlight of the park is the Vallée de Mai, which looks like a setting from Jurassic park.

The park is a remnant of an ancient palm jungle which dates from the days of Gondwana and is one of two UNESCO World Heritage sites in the Seychelles. A key attraction on Praslin, the park is open daily from 8 am to 5:30 pm with entrance tickets costing Rs 320 (US$26).

The world’s largest coconut, the Coco de mer is the national symbol of the Seychelles.

A series of walking trails meanders through the ancient forest, passing numerous, towering, Coco de Mer palms. While the park offers the best viewing opportunity in the Seychelles of these towering ancient giants, there are a total of 6 endemic palm trees which can be spotted from the walking trails.

One of many walking trails in the UNESCO-listed Vallee de Mai, a highlight of Praslin Island.

The largest seed in the world is the coco de mer, the seed of a palm tree. It can reach about 12 inches (30 cm) long, and weigh up to 40 pounds (18 kg).

Anse Takamaka

This lazy palm tree on Anse Takamaka appears on many postcards in the Seychelles.

Located on the south-west coast, Anse Takamaka appears on many postcards in the Seychelles for one reason – one lazy, but very photogenic, palm tree which seems to be reaching out towards the sea. The beach itself is long and protected and home to a small fleet of fishing boats.

Anse Georgette

Secluded Anse Georgette is ideal for snorkelling and swimming.

Yet another stunning beach! At the end of the road on the north-west coast is the very pretty Anse Georgette. Unfortunately, this secluded beach is located on the private property of the deluxe Constance Lemuria resort which presents some organisational challenges.

Although the beach is open to the general public, the resort imposes a daily limit on the number of visitors who are able to enter the property. If you wish to access the beach, you should contact the resort (Tel: +248 4281 281), at least one day in advance, and request that your name to be added to the ‘visitors’ list which is kept at the front guard house. If your name isn’t on the list, the guards can refuse entry, although the friendly guard allowed me to enter, even though I had not made any prior reservation.

The secluded and beautiful Anse Georgette is a worthwhile destination at the end of the road on the north coast of Praslin.

Once you arrive at the main gate, you’ll need to leave your car parked outside the resort grounds. From the security guard’s office, the beach is a 30-minute walk along a sweaty, hilly road. If you’re staying at the resort, you will be driven to the beach in a golf buggy.

Anse Georgette is yet another amazing beach and definitely worth the effort involved in getting there.

La Digue

Located 11-km (15 mins by boat) to the east of the much larger, and busier, Praslin, La Digue (population: 2,800) is the fourth largest granitic island in the Seychelles and is home to one of the world’s most photographed beaches, La Source D’Argent.

The island was named after a ship in the fleet of French explorer Marc-Joseph Marion du Fresne who visited the Seychelles in 1768. This tiny island (10 sq km / 3.8 sq mi) is mostly free of vehicles, which are restricted. Most locals, and tourists, either hire a bike or walk, making La Digue one very relaxed and chilled island.

Almost all facilities, including the port, accommodation, restaurants, shops etc are clustered along the beach in the main town of La Réunion.

Frequent ferries connect the island to the, much busier, Praslin, allowing hordes of day-trippers to visit. The masses start trickling onto the island around 8 am and depart by 4 pm, at which point the island becomes much quieter. The best time to photograph La Source D’Argent is outside of the day-tripping visiting hours.

The island offers a collection of truly stunning beaches, including the one everyone comes to photograph. While La Source D’Argent is beautiful, it is also over-run with tourists, all vying to take the most instagramable photo and a million selfies. I much preferred the quiet seclusion which is offered by the sister beaches of Grand Anse and Petite Anse, which are a short bicycle ride away on the south-east coast.

L’Union Estate Farm

The French-style Plantation house at L’Union Estate Farm was built by a family of Mauritian settlers.

For almost all visitors to La Digue, the one ‘must-see’ sight is the world famous La Source D’Argent beach, which draws tens of thousands of tourists every year. This photogenic wonder of nature is located on the private L’Union Estate Farm, which allows access to the beach (and the estate) during daylight hours for a fee of Rs 115 (USD$8.50).

The very handsome “La Digue day gecko”, which is endemic to the Seychelles, can be found on L’Union Estate Farm.

A relic from the colonial-era, L’Union Estate Farm was established by a family of Mauritian settlers as a coconut and vanilla plantation. The estate, which is today run like a small theme park, is named after the massive Giant Union Rock, a granite monolith, which rises 40-metres from the beach, and is estimated to be 700 million years old.

Apart from the famous beach, you can visit an enclosure which houses the native Aldabra Giant Tortoise, visit a small vanilla plantation, a colonial-era cemetery and the old Plantation house.

Native to the Seychelles, the Aldabra Giant Tortoise is one of the largest tortoises in the world.

As a lover of nature and wildlife, it was distressing to see 30-40 Aldabra Giant Tortoises kept inside a small walled, barren, muddy enclosure on the estate. The enclosure is popular with visitors, providing many with their only opportunity to view these magnificent creatures up close.

On other islands in the Seychelles, these creatures are free to roam and gather food as they wish. There is plenty of green grass and available land around the enclosure, in which they could roam and graze.

The Vanilla plantation at L’Union Estate.

Close to the tortoise enclosure is the vanilla plantation. In the colonial-era, vanilla grew successfully on La Digue, but today, due to the lack of pollinating insects, the pods can only be harvested if humans pollinate each flower individually by hand.

Anse Source d’Argent

Anse Source d’Argent has been voted “the most beautiful beach” in the world. Praslin island is visible in the background.

The main star of the estate, and one of the star attractions of the Seychelles, is the breath-taking Anse Source d’Argent. What makes this beach a standout? It’s a mixture of shallow, turquoise water, the softest of white sand, and imposing, gigantic granite boulders, all backed by lush, green nature.

Anse Source d’Argent has been voted “the most beautiful beach in the world” and is a regular inclusion on “Top 10 beaches” lists. Due to its protected, shallow waters, the beach is popular with bathers, with many tourists spending the entire day on the beach.

The walking trail along the beach requires passing through some imposing passages.

A walking trail along the beach provides access to a series of small, rock-lined coves, all of which are teeming with tourists. The scenery along the trail is impressive, with huge Granite boulders plopped about like giant playing marbles.

A small section of the busy bicycle parking area at Anse Source d’Argent.

As mentioned previously, if you’re staying on La Digue, the best time to visit this iconic beach is outside of the busy, day-tripping visiting hours, unless you want lots of people in your photos. The bicycle parking area at the beach provides a good indicator as to how many tourists are present.

Grand Anse Beach

The dazzlingly beautiful – Grand Anse beach.

Located on the other side of the island, far from the tourist crowds, lie the two stunningly beautiful beaches of Grand Anse and Petite Anse. While both beaches are very inviting, they are not recommended for swimming due to the absence of a protective reef, deep water and strong currents.

The definition of ‘pristine’ – Grand Anse beach.

Compared to the, very, crowded Anse Source d’Argent, these two beaches are normally very quiet. Both feature a wide strip of super-soft, white-sand, which is lapped by the cleanest and clearest of waters.

The beaches can be found on the south-east coast, 8 km from the ferry terminal, and are best reached by bicycle. The hilly, cross-island road terminates in front of the only restaurant on this side of the island – the Grand Anse Beach Bar which is very popular with hungry tourists. The fish and chips are highly recommended!

Petite Anse Beach

My favourite beach on the island of La Digue, Petite Anse, features an attractive, designed by nature, granite stone feature.

Can it get any more picturesque? I believe Petite Anse is even more stunning than Grand Anse, especially since it features a piece of wavy, groovy, granite which contrasts nicely against the elements.

The two beaches, which sit alongside each other, are separated by a small, hilly point. If you’re disturbed by the few souls on Grand Anse, you will find blissful solitude on Petite Anse. If you make it here – congratulations! You have arrived in paradise!

Truly stunning, the quiet, sandy expanse of Petite Anse – my favourite beach in the Seychelles.

Notre Dame de L’Assomption Church

Impossible to miss, the bright-yellow Notre Dame de L’Assomption Church dominates the waterfront on La Digue Island.

Located on the waterfront, south of the ferry pier, the Notre Dame de L’Assomption Church is impossible to miss, thanks to its striking yellow façade.

The interior of the Notre Dame de L’Assomption Church on La Digue Island.

On an island brimming with beautiful natural attractions, this attractive, but simple, church is the one man-made sight worth a quick visit. Built in 1854, the church was the first Catholic church on the island.

Accommodation

Elje Villa, my favourite guest house on La Digue Island.

There’s no shortage of accommodation on the main islands of the Seychelles, although budget options are limited. If you’re travelling on a budget, an apartment rental through Airbnb is a good option. On the popular tourist island of La Digue, many families offer deluxe guest house accommodation at reasonable prices.

Mahé

While on Mahé, I stayed in two different properties on either side of the island. On the east coast, I stayed at the wonderful La Villa Therese which is located one block back from the amazingly beautiful beach at Anse Royale. This small, family-run, holiday apartment complex offers spacious apartments with all facilities, which allows for self-catering.

Apartments can be booked online through sites such as Hotels.com for around US$95 per night.

On the west coast I stayed in an Airbnb apartment in the popular tourist enclave of Beau Vallon. The apartment house is located in a quiet backstreet and features a variety of apartments from one-bedroom (USD$120 per night) to a deluxe 2-bedroom apartment (USD$200 per night). Clean and spacious, the apartments are owned and managed by the wonderful Beryl, who is a rated as a Super-host on Airbnb.

Both accommodation options are best suited to those who have their own transport, which is always best on the Seychelles.

Praslin

While on Praslin, I stayed at the amazingly beautiful beach-side village of Anse Volbert, in the less-than-spectacular Villa Bananier Guest House.

Located a short stroll from the white-sands of Anse Volbert, Villa Bananier is a 2-story house which offers eight, old and dated rooms. A standard room, with breakfast, costs US$95 per night while the same room with half board costs US$120 per night. There are many excellent restaurants along the beach front so the half board option is not necessary.

La Digue

My colourful room at Elje Villa on the island of La Digue.

There are many accommodation options on the popular island of La Digue. The back lane-ways of the main town are lined with newly constructed, family-run, guest houses, offering comfortable, stylish accommodation.

My beautiful bathroom at Elje Villa.

While on the island, I stayed at the very new, sparkling clean, Elje Villa which is located on a quiet lane-way, a short walk from the dock, restaurants etc.

Operated by the wonderful Elna, the guest house includes lots of thoughtful touches such as fresh cut flowers in the bathroom with local, natural, materials incorporated into the design of each room. Rooms, which start at US$93 per night, can be booked on booking.com

Eating Out

Local fish can be found on most restaurant menus.

As can be expected from an island nation, seafood features prominently on restaurant menus in the Seychelles. The fishing industry is the 2nd largest economic activity in the Seychelles, with Victoria being home to one of the largest Tuna canneries in the world.

One thing you will not find in the Seychelles are the usual global fast food outlets like McDonald’s or KFC. One exception to the rule is a Burger King outlet, which can be found in the departure lounge of the international terminal, making it only available to travellers and not the general public.

While the international chains are barred, a local version of McDonald’s – Butcher’s Grill – serves burgers, kebabs, fried chicken and other fast food from its outlet in downtown Victoria.

Restaurants

Red snapper is very popular in the Seychelles, and can be sampled everywhere, including at the Pirogue restaurant on Praslin.

The restaurants in the Seychelles are known for their international and Creole cuisine. Seafood dominates menus with Red snapper being especially popular. There are a multitude of restaurants with a diverse variety of styles, from casual to fine dining, catering for all budgets. As most food is imported, menu prices are high. A good restaurant directory is provided by Lonely Planet.

Many service staff in the Seychelles are guest workers, with males being recruited from India or the Philippines and females being recruited from the Philippines or English speaking countries of Africa such as Kenya and Cameroon.

Mahé

Victoria

Ask locals in Victoria for a restaurant recommendation and there’s a good chance they’ll mention La Dolce Vita, which is conveniently located around the corner from the clock tower, in front of the State House.

The menu of this popular establishment features a wide range of international and creole cuisine, from sandwiches, pasta, hamburgers, curries and a variety of desserts. The long queue in front of the ice cream counter is proof that this is one of the best places in town to indulge in some creamy goodness. Their milkshakes, which are made from the fresh ice cream, are especially good.

While you can dine inside, the alfresco courtyard is the place to be. A new branch of the restaurant has recently opened on the beach at Beau Vallon, which is fantastic news, as they offer breakfast, which was previously impossible to find in Beau Vallon.

Praslin

While on Praslin, I sampled many restaurants, but kept returning to the very popular Pirogue restaurant, which is located across the road from Anse Volbert beach.

Specialising in Creole cuisine, this is a great place to sample typical Seychellois dishes. The photo above shows a grilled red snapper which was my lunch on one occasion. Open daily from 8.00 am to 11 pm, the Pirogue serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.

La Digue

It often seems that my favourite restaurant is the most expensive, and this is very much the case with Le Repaire, which offers the finest dining on La Digue and, possibly, the best Italian food anywhere in the Seychelles.

Despite the high prices (Spaghetti Carbonara for US$23), I dream of one day returning to La Digue to indulge in more fine Italian fare at this beachfront restaurant.

A stylish, art-filled, establishment, the restaurant is under the command of an Italian chef who imports many of the key ingredients from Italy. The menu includes the tastiest wood-fired pizzas, homemade pasta, meat dishes and local fish dishes with everything executed to perfection.

I recommend starting with the Insalata Caprese – truly divine! The dessert menu changes daily, but always includes Italian favourites such as Tiramisu and Pannacotta.

As is to be expected from an Italian establishment, the restaurant opens for breakfast (7 am – 9:30 am) then closes, reopening for lunch and dinner from 12:30 pm to 10:00 pm.

Cafés

Whole Foods in the Seychelles? This is not the US supermarket chain but an excellent convenience store and café on Praslin.

Coffee culture on the Seychelles is not well established, with most places serving mediocre brews.

My favourite cafés include:

Mahé

News Café – Located on the 1st floor of a retail building in downtown Victoria, News café serves Lavazza coffee with a wide selection of standard café food such as sandwiches, cakes, coffees, teas, juices and a variety of salads. Sandwiches and wraps are priced around Rs175 (USD$13).

Coffee Club – Possibly the best café in the whole country, the popular Australian coffee chain, Coffee Club can be found in the arrivals area of the airport. What differentiates it from other coffee chains is the table service, excellent food and drinks menu and the strong flavour of their coffee, which is roasted in Australia.

Praslin

Whole Foods Café – The first time I drove through the tiny, sleepy village of Amitie, I did a double-take. Whole Foods in the Seychelles? And on Praslin? I had to investigate!

This is no relation to the US supermarket chain, but is the brainchild of a South African entrepreneur who saw an opening in the market for both a quality convenience store and a café.

Open for lunch, the café menu includes very tasty sandwiches, wraps, meat pies, milkshakes and Illy coffee. Once I had sampled their offerings, I made a point of returning each day, to sample more. The meat pies are especially recommended but sell out fast, while their coffee is the best on Praslin.

Whole Foods is part of the adjacent Ocean Jewel Resorts which is located directly on the white sand beach.

Bars

SeyBrew lager is the #1 selling beer in the Seychelles.

Despite the fact that alcohol is freely available, and the Seychelles is full of thirsty tourists, there are surprisingly very few bars in the country.

While most restaurants serve alcohol with meals, the only bars I saw were in the tourist enclave of Beau Vallon. One lively bar, which can be found across from the beach, is the Boat House Restaurant.

Locals wanting a drink tend to congregate in the evenings around their local corner store where they can purchase affordable beers. The most popular beer in the Seychelles is SeyBrew lager, which is brewed by Seychelles Brewery. The brewery is owned by the giant Diego company, who, unfortunately, add sugar to the mix in order to accelerate the brewing process. Despite this, the beer is very quaffable and refreshing.

My favourite drinks on the Seychelles normally included a shot of the exquisite Takamaka rum. A visit to the distillery (see ‘Sightseeing‘ section above) provides an opportunity to sample some interesting cocktails.

Visa Requirements

The Seychelles passport stamp features a ‘Coco de Mer’ design.

The Visa Policy of the Seychelles is wonderfully straight-forward, with all nationalities entitled to visa-free entry. The only requirements for entry are that you are in possession of a valid passport, return or onward ticket, proof of accommodation and sufficient funds. These requirements are strictly enforced!

Immigration

For a country which is so reliant on tourism, you would think the immigration officers at Seychelles International airport would be more welcoming to tourists.

Upon arrival, I was asked to show my return ticket and hotel bookings for each of the nights I intended to stay. I always travel ‘sans itinerary‘ and only create a travel plan for each destination after meeting with local tourism officials.

I used this reason to explain why I had only booked the first two nights on Mahé and this was accepted by the immigration officer.

Despite the fact that the official policy states that visitor’s will be granted a 3 month stay, the reality is that you will be granted a stay up to the date of your onward flight.

Getting There

Air

All flights into the Seychelles arrive at Seychelles International Airport, which is located on the east coast of Mahé, 10 km south of the capital. Apart from cruise ship, this is the only gateway to the country.

The following airlines provide scheduled flights from Seychelles International Airport:

Air Austral – flies to/ from Saint–Denis de la Réunion
Air Mauritius – flies to/ from Mauritius
Air Seychelles – flies to/ from Johannesburg–O. R. Tambo, Mauritius, Mumbai, Praslin Island, Tel Aviv
British Airways – flies to/ from London–Heathrow
Condor – flies to/ from Frankfurt
Emirates – flies to/ from Dubai–International
Ethiopian Airlines – flies to/ from Addis Ababa
Etihad Airways – flies to/ from Abu Dhabi
Kenya Airways – flies to/ from Nairobi–Jomo Kenyatta
Qatar Airways – flies to/ from Doha
SriLankan Airlines – flies to/ from Colombo–Bandaranaike
Turkish Airlines – flies to/ from Istanbul

The airport serves as the base for the national carrier, Air Seychelles, who offer domestic (charter) flights to the following destinations:

Alphonse Island
Bird Island
D’Arros Island
Denis Island
Desroches Island
Frégate Island

Airport Transport

Public bus 1C, stops outside the airport on its way north and south along the east coast. Operated by the Seychelles Public Transport Corporation (SPTC), a single ticket costs Rs 7 (USD$0.50), which can be purchased from the driver.

Apart from the public bus, you have the option of renting a car directly at the airport (the recommended option) or taking a taxi from the rank in front of the arrivals area (see the ‘Getting Around‘ section below for more on taxis).

Cruise Ships

The Seychelles is a popular port of call for visiting Cruise ships, with 64 ships calling into Mahé during the cruise season, which lasts from October to March.

Getting Around

Public Transport

Seychelles Public Transport Corporation (SPTC) is the sole provider of public transportation services in the Seychelles. Bus services are offered on both Mahé and Praslin islands with a single ticket costing Rs 7 (USD$0.50) during the day and Rs 10 after 8 pm. Details on routes and schedules are available for download from their website.

Taxi

Best to be avoided!

In a country where Uber does not exist, you can be sure of high taxi fares. Unlike other countries, where the taxi business is owned by companies, in the Seychelles, taxi drivers own their own business. Currently there are 372 licensed taxi drivers operating on the three main islands of Mahé, Praslin and La Digue. There are no meters and most drivers are specialists in price gouging tourists.

I once took a taxi from the airport to the capital and paid dearly. I had a discussion with the driver regarding the introduction of external competition such as Uber. He was adamant that Uber would never be allowed to enter the local market.

He was correct, but a recent local version of Uber – Bouzāy – has been introduced and is hopefully the disruptor that locals and tourists have been waiting for. The app is currently only available on the Android platform on Google Play but plans are afoot to introduce an iOS version for Apple products.

Ferry

Departing Praslin island for La Digue, aboard the Cat Cocos ferry.

Ferry services between the three main islands, Mahé, Praslin and La Digue, are provided by Cat Cocos Inter-Island Ferry, who operate a fleet of four high-speed catamaran ferries. Tickets can be booked from the company offices, which are located at each of the island docks. Current prices and the schedule are available from their website.

The Cat Cocos ferry route map.
Source: catcocos.com

The sailing time from Mahé to Praslin is 1 hour, while the short hop from Praslin to La Digue takes just 15 minutes. A one-way fare from Mahé to Praslin is €50 (USD$55), while a return ticket costs €100 (USD$110).

Rental Car

My rental car on Mahé, the best option for exploring the island.

Mahé

With a patchy bus service, the only way to sensibly explore the main island of Mahé is with a rental car. There are numerous agents at the airport and it’s recommended to collect a car upon arrival. There are limited cars available so it’s best to book in advance.

Some roads on the Seychelles can be challenging such as this two-way road (which is one lane wide), with steep drop-offs on either side.

I rented a compact car through Hertz (USD$65 per day), which I collected at the airport upon arrival. One benefit with renting through Hertz was that I could use their Head Office car park, free of charge, which is located on Revolution Avenue in downtown Victoria, a city with very limited parking spaces.

Praslin

Exploring Praslin Island in my rental car, the only sensible option for exploring this slice of paradise.

The bus service on Praslin is even less-reliable, making a rental car the only option to explore this stunning island. There are many agents on Praslin, especially in the Anse Volbert neighbourhood. I organised a car through my accommodation, Villa Bananier Guest House.

The license plate of my rental car on Praslin.

This is the end of my Seychelles Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Mauritius Travel Guide

5 years ago

Darren McLean

Chamarel Waterfall, a highlight of Mauritius.

Mauritius Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Mauritius Travel Guide!

Date of Visit: March 2018

Introduction

While Mauritius is famed for its turquoise waters, powder-white beaches, superb scuba diving, snorkelling and luxury resorts, there is so much more to this fascinating destination.

Colourful umbrellas provide shade on the pedestrian mall at Le Caudan Waterfront complex in Port Louis.

Rising up like a giant green emerald from the azure waters of the Indian ocean, this remote, mountainous, volcanic, island-nation, offers excellent hiking in the forested and mountainous interior, unique, colourful, landscapes, plunging waterfalls, national parks and the oldest botanical garden in the Southern Hemisphere.

Then there’s the cultural side of the island. Over the centuries, Mauritius has seen an influx of European settlers; African slaves; Chinese traders; and Indian Indentured labourers. This ‘melting pot’ of cultures has influenced every aspect of life on the island, creating a rich tapestry of culture, cuisine and traditions.

Artwork adorns the shutters of a shop in the Chinatown neighbourhood of Port Louis.

The history and religions of Mauritius have created a kaleidoscope of cultures, nowhere more so than in the capital, Port Louis, where Chinese shops sitting alongside Indian stores. With houses of worship for every major religion, busy markets, fine French and Victorian-era colonial architecture, Port Louis is a gem that’s worth at least a day of anyone’s time.

Kali, a Hindu goddess, at a seaside temple near Trou aux Biches.

I spent 13 days exploring Mauritius with a rental car, which still wasn’t a sufficient amount of time to cover everything. There’s a multitude of things to do on Mauritius, even away from the famed beaches.

In 1970, Mauritius received 18,000 visitors, while in 2018, the island received 1.4 million visitors, according to the government tourism office.

Tourism is the most important industry on the island and, with both French and English widely spoken, it’s not surprising that the bulk of tourists to Mauritius are the French, followed, a distant second, by the British.

Many French visitors add Mauritius onto their Réunion (click to view my travel guide) holiday, visiting two destinations in one trip.

A young girl at Mahébourg, wearing the Mauritius national colours, with the island of Mouchoir Rouge in the background.

Tourism is well developed with hundreds of accommodation options in all budget categories, restaurants, bars and cafes. It’s an easy and pleasant travel destination – but not a cheap one, with the government placing an emphasis on high-end tourism. However, there are budget travel options which will allow you to explore the island without breaking the bank.

Mauritius is a rewarding destination and one I cannot wait to revisit!

The Dodo

A complete skeleton from the extinct Dodo can be viewed at the National History museum in Mahébourg.

The now-extinct Dodo was a flightless bird that was endemic to the island of Mauritius. It had no predators and enjoyed an untroubled existence on what was once a remote and uninhabited island.

Then humans arrived! The first recorded mention of the dodo was by Dutch sailors in 1598. In the following years, the bird was hunted by sailors and invasive species, while its habitat was being destroyed. The last widely accepted sighting of a dodo was in 1662. Gone forever!

Today, you can view the only complete skeleton of a Dodo at the National History museum in Mahebourg.

Location

Port Louis, Mauritius

Mauritius is an island nation located in the Indian Ocean – 2,000 km (1,200 mi) off the southeast coast of African and 1,100 km (683 mi) east of Madagascar. The country includes the islands of Mauritius and the smaller island of Rodrigues, which is located 560 kilometres (350 mi) east of Mauritius.

Being a volcanic island, Mauritius is surrounded by a fringing coral reef.

The two land masses form part of the Mascarene Islands, along with nearby Réunion (226 km to the southwest), a French overseas department.

A volcanic island chain, whose name is derived from the Portuguese navigator Pedro Mascarenhas who first visited them in April 1512, the main island is formed around a central plateau which is 600-metres above sea level and is surrounded by a fringing coral reef which forms many shallow lagoons and provides protected, sandy beaches.

Mauritius is sixty-one kilometres long and forty-six kilometres wide at its widest point and easily explored thanks to a good road network.

Currency

The Mauritian Rupee.

The currency of Mauritius is the Mauritian Rupee (₨) which is issued in denominations of 25, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000 and 2,000 and has the international currency code of MUR. The rupee is subdivided into 100 cents and has an exchange rate of USD$1 = Rs36.75 – you can check the current exchange rate here.

All currency is issued by the Mauritius Central Bank which is headquartered in downtown Port Louis on Sir William Newton Street. If you wish to purchase un-circulated bank notes, you can do so on the 2nd floor of the headquarters.

Fresh off the press, the newest polymer note was issued on the 4th of December 2018.

Polymer bank notes, which are printed in the UK by Thomas De La Rue, are issued in denominations of Rs25, 50, 500 and 2,000 and feature a host of security features, including a transparent window. At the time of my visit, the new Rs 2,000 polymer note had just been issued and is pictured below with all other bank notes.

The complete set of Mauritian Rupee notes.

Costs

The official tourism policy of the Mauritian government states:

“The National Tourism Policy emphasises low impact, high spending tourism. Selective, up-market, quality tourism is favoured, and although such tourism is not the only type, it constitutes the major segment of our tourists who stay in high class hotels.”

With a per capita GDP of US$25,000 – Mauritius is the 2nd richest country in Africa, after the Seychelles. Tourism is the main economic activity on the island with the country focusing on mid-range to top-end tourism.

While travel costs are reasonable, travelling on a budget can be challenging. I saw few backpackers on the island, who can get more bang for their buck elsewhere in the region.

Suggested daily budgets:

Backpacker: Up to USD$100 per day.
Flashpacker: Between USD$100-$200 per day.
Top-End: USD$200+

Sample costs:

Coca Cola (0.33 litre bottle): Rs48 (US$1.31)
Water (0.33 litre bottle): Rs31 (US$0.84)
Cappuccino: Rs98 (US$2.67)
Bus ticket: Rs35 (US$0.95)
Car Rental (daily compact car with Europcar): Rs2,462 (US$67)
Car Rental (weekly compact car with Europcar): Rs1,947 (US$53 per day)
Litre of fuel: Rs48 (US$1.31)
Combo Meal at McDonald’s: Rs200 (US$5.44)
Meal (inexpensive restaurant): Rs250 (US$6.80)
Meal for 2 (mid-range restaurant): Rs1,500 (US$40.82)
Room in a budget hotel (Villa Narmada, Grand Baie): Rs 1,500 (US$40)
Room in a mid-range hotel (La Tonnelle, Trou Aux Biche): Rs2,300 (US$63)
Room in a top-end hotel (InterContinental Mauritius Resort Balaclava Fort): Rs9,200 (US$250)

Flag

The flag of Mauritius is known as the ‘Four Bands’.

The national flag of Mauritius, also known as the ‘Four Bands’, was adopted upon independence on the 12th of March, 1968. It consists of four horizontal bands of equal width, coloured (from top to bottom) red, blue, yellow, and green which stands for:

Red: represents the struggle for freedom and independence.
Blue: represents the Indian Ocean, which surrounds the country.
Yellow: represents the new light of independence.
Green: represents the agriculture of Mauritius and its colour throughout the 12 months of the year.

People

Young Mauritian boys enjoying the beach at Grand Baie.

The first visitors to Mauritius were the Portuguese, who arrived in 1510 but never settled. The Dutch were the first to settle on the island in 1598 naming it after Prince Maurice of Nassau. The Dutch left the island in 1710, having found a better place to settle – the Cape of Good hope in South Africa. The French occupied the island in 1715, renaming it “Isle de France”.

Today, the people of Mauritius are descendants of European (mostly French) settlers; African slaves; Chinese traders; and Indian Indentured labourers, with the later (Indo-Mauritians) comprising 75% of the population.

Although the British conquered the island in 1810, the French settlers chose to remain and the British allowed them to maintain their language, culture and traditions. Today, French is the language of choice for most Mauritians.

Indian Indentured Labourers

Photos of Indian indentured labourers at the Aapravasi Ghat museum.

When slavery was abolished on the 1st of February 1835, an attempt was made to secure a cheap source of adaptable labour for intensive sugar plantations on Mauritius. Indentured labour began with the British importing Chinese, Malay, African and Malagasy labourers, but ultimately, it was India which supplied the largest number of labourers.

Sugarcane fields on the south coast of Mauritius, glistening in the late afternoon sun.

Almost all labourers entered Mauritius through Aapravasi Ghat, an immigration processing centre, which was created to receive indentured labourers from India and is today a UNESCO World Heritage site, located in Port Louis.

The success of the initial British experiment (of using Indian indentured labourers) on Mauritian sugar plantations, prompted the Colonial authorities to replicate the experiment elsewhere. Armies of Indian labourers were sent across the world to colonies such as Guyana (then British Guiana), Suriname and Trinidad & Tobago where they became known as ‘West Indians‘ and today comprise a large part of the populations of those countries.

With Indians comprising the majority of the population, Hinduism is the major religion of Mauritius, with temples found across the island.

Sightseeing

The sightseeing section starts in the capital, Port Louis, then moves around the island in an anti-clockwise direction.

Port Louis

Most colonial-era buildings in Port Louis are constructed from black basalt stone.

Tip: When planning a visit to Port Louis, you should avoid Saturday afternoon or Sunday, when almost everything, including the colourful central market, is closed.

Once you’ve had enough of sun, sand and sea, Port Louis (population: 150,000), the bustling capital, and financial hub, of Mauritius, offers a multitude of attractions.

Nestled between the protective Moka mountain range and the largest natural harbour on the island, Port Louis was named by the French, in honour of King Louis XV.

The city was founded in 1735 by François Mahé de Labourdonnais, who served as the French governor of the Isle de France (now Mauritius) and neighbouring Île de Bourbon (Réunion). The city is graced by many attractive colonial-era buildings, most of which are built from black basalt stone.

You could easily spend days exploring every pocket of this swarming metropolis, but one day will be sufficient to cover the main sights. One of the main sights is the UNESCO World Heritage Listed “Aapravasi Ghat”, which was the landing place and immigration depot of some half a million Indian Indentured labourers.

Le Caudan Waterfront

Located on the harbour, Le Caudan waterfront is a popular place for shopping and dining.

A logical place to commence any visit to Port Louis is Le Caudan Waterfront, a commercial complex offering one of the only car parks in town (see the ‘Rental Car‘ section below for more on parking in Port Louis), a good promenade, the best craft market in town, restaurants, cafés , bars, a hotel, casino, cinema and the Blue Penny museum.

Colourful umbrella artwork provides shade at Le Caudan waterfront complex.

Craft Market

Dodo batik on sale at Le Caudan craft market.

Located at Le Caudan Waterfront, the Craft Market offers a variety of shops which sell both ‘Made in China’ and locally made souvenirs.

Blue Penny Museum

These photocopies of the highly valuable Mauritius “Post Office” stamps are on display at the nearby Postal museum.

Part of Le Caudan Waterfront complex, the Blue Penny museum is dedicated to the world-famous Mauritius “Post Office” stamps of 1847, of which, two are on display behind bullet-proof glass in a room which is monitored by CCTV cameras and in which photography is strictly forbidden.

The stamps are considered a national treasure and are probably the most valuable objects on the entire island. Originally, 500 stamps were produced, but today it’s estimated that just 27 remain, making them among the rarest stamps in the world. The last sale of the stamps was in 1993, where two stamps, on one cover, sold for USD$4,000,000.

While the stamps are the main attraction of the museum, other displays deal with the history of the island’s exploration, settlement and colonial period.

Mauritius Postal Museum

The Postal Museum is housed inside the Central Post Office building.

Also, on the waterfront is the Mauritius Postal Museum, which is housed inside the Central Post Office building, an architectural gem from the colonial era.

The museum, which also provides detail on the famous Mauritius “Post Office” stamps, features displays of commemorative stamps and other postal paraphernalia.

The Photographic Museum

A visit to the Photographic museum in Port Louis was one of the highlights of Mauritius.

Located in downtown Port Louis, a short walk from Le Caudan Waterfront, is the highly engaging Photographic Museum. If you have any interest in the history of Mauritius, or photography, your first stop in town should be this museum where, hopefully, you’ll be fortunate enough to meet its owner.

The museum is the passion of one amazing man (and local legend), the very energetic, enthusiastic, and highly motivated, Mr Tristan Bréville, who can normally be found working on his latest project in the back office of the museum.

With the help, and support, of his wife Marie Noelle, and his son (who normally serves on the front desk), Mr Bréville has spent his life amassing an impressive collection of photographic equipment. He has written several books on the history of Mauritius and he is also the owner of the largest photographic archive of Mauritius, which fully documents the history and development of the island.

Mr Tristan Bréville is the founder of the Photographic Museum and the owner of the largest photographic archive of Mauritius.

The museum, which is located opposite Les Jardins De La Compagnie, is housed inside a former French government building, which was donated to Mr Bréville by the French government who fully appreciate the significance and importance of his collection.

At the time of my visit, Mr Bréville told me that he was hoping to secure new, larger premises so that he could properly display his vast archive of Mauritian photos – the largest such archive anywhere in the world.

How big is the archive? I was led into his back office, where the walls are lined from floor to ceiling with cupboards and draws, all of which are full of images – more than one million negatives, more than five thousand antique glass negatives, thousands of early island postcards and much more. It’s a treasure trove of huge importance, which tells the story of Mauritius. It would be a shame if such an archive never saw the light of day.

The first photos made in Mauritius were these Daguerreotypes which date from 1843.

A visit to the museum is an opportunity to meet a family who have spared no effort to preserve the memory of their country. One of the highlights is the collection of Daguerreotypes, the first publicly available photos.

Invented in 1838 by Frenchman Louis-Jacques-Mandé Daguerre, Daguerreotypes used a polished sheet of silver-plated copper to capture an image. This technique was introduced to Mauritius soon after it was invented and the museum contains the first photos produced in Mauritius.

While I took a photo of Mr Bréville for this report, he also took a photo of me, which he will include in the Mauritius archive.

Saint Louis Cathedral

The current version of Saint Louis Cathedral was built in 1932.

A short walk from the Photographic museum lies the austere and tranquil Saint Louis Cathedral. The current church, which dates from 1932, occupies a patch of land on which various churches have stood over the centuries, with the first being consecrated in 1756.

Although simple, and unpretentious, the church is an ideal place to take respite from the hectic, chaotic streets of the capital.

Les Jardins De La Compagnie

Across the road from the Photographic Museum, Les Jardins de la Compagnie is the city’s most attractive garden, with its vast, shady banyan trees, statues, ample benches and fountains. It’s a favourite place for locals to relax.

Aapravasi Ghat

One of the renovated buildings at Aapravasi Ghat.

Did you know? Mauritius was the site of the first, large-scale, use of indentured labour in the modern world.

Located on the seafront, up the hill from the Mauritius Postal museum, Aapravasi Ghat has the distinction of being one of two UNESCO World Heritage site on Mauritius.

The centre served as the island’s main immigration depot for indentured labourers from India and, between 1834 and 1920, almost half a million indentured labourers arrived from India at Aapravasi Ghat to work in the sugar plantations on the island.

It was from here that the modern, multi-cultural society, that is Mauritius was born and, today, almost 70% of Mauritius’ citizens can trace their roots back to Aapravasi Ghat.

Some of the original stone buildings have been renovated and converted into a visitors’ centre and museum with displays describing the sea voyage, arrival, living conditions and daily lives of the labourers.

A ‘must see’ for anyone interested in the history and development of Mauritius.

Central Market

The liveliest place in Port Louis, the bustling Central market.

It’s hard to ignore the liveliest, and most raucous place in Port Louis, the rightly famous Central Market.

Located downtown, and housed inside several Victorian-era colonial buildings, the market is the place where locals gather to buy their produce from fruit and vegetables (in the main building) to meat (across the road in an annex).

Anyone for a cow’s head? The meat market is not the ideal place for vegetarians.

The market has served as the commercial heart of the capital since Victorian times and is a good place to get a feel for local life.

Jummah Mosque

The construction of Jummah mosque was funded by local Muslim businessmen in the 1850’s.

A short stroll up the road from the Central Market is the historic Jummah Mosque, the most important mosque in Mauritius, which was built in the 1850’s using a blend of architectural styles, including Indian and Islamic.

The mosque, which is a tranquil oasis, is open to visitors, provided you leave your shoes at the front door.

Chinatown

Dr. Sun Yat Sen pop art in Chinatown – à la Andy Warhol.

Symbolic of the cultural melting port which is Mauritius, the stone gate on Royal street, which marks the entrance to Chinatown, is located alongside the entrance to Jummah mosque.

Home to everything Chinese, including the thriving community, restaurants, grocery stores and lots of colourful street art, Chinatown is an interesting neighbourhood which warrants investigation.

Around the Island – South West Coast

Albion

Located on the rugged west coast, the Albion lighthouse is the only lighthouse still in use on Mauritius.

The coastal town of Albion, which is located 16-km south of Port Louis, is home to the iconic Albion lighthouse. Inaugurated in 1910, and rising 30-m above the coastal cliffs, the lighthouse has the distinction of being the only functional lighthouse on Mauritius.

While not open to visitors, unless you seek prior approval from the Mauritius Ports Authority, spectacular sunset photos can be made from the nearby cliffs.

Flic en Flac

Flic en Flac beach is famous for its 6-km of fine white sand.

Continuing south along the coast, the popular resort town of Flic en Flac lies 30-km south of Port Louis. This seaside town is known for its (fully public) 6-km stretch of white-sand beach, the longest on the island. The beach is part of a lagoon which is protected by a coral reef, making it ideal for families.

While other beaches on Mauritius are off-limits, located behind the fences of private resorts, the beach at Flic en Flac is open to all.

Because of its accessibility, the beach is popular with both tourists and locals and is lined with tasty, and affordable, food trucks and shops selling all sorts of beach gear (in case you forgot to bring something, like, maybe a giant, inflatable pink flamingo Lilo).

Tamarin

Empty salt pans at ‘Les Salines de Yemen’ in Tamarin.

Continuing south down the west coast, the former fishing village of Tamarin lies just a few kilometres south of Flic en Flac, and is known for two things; some of the best surfing in the world and its salt pans.

Tamarin is the main salt pan in Mauritius with the pans covering an area of 30 hectares. Unlike other salt pans around the world, the pans at Tamarin are paved with black basalt stone.

Salt has been produced here since the French period with the production technique little changed through the ages. Using a very simple process, salt water is pumped directly from the sea into the pans and allowed to evaporate. Salt is then harvested a few days later. Not too complicated!

Sea salt, ready to be packaged, at Les Salines de Yemen.

At the time of my visit (which was the rainy season), salt production was on hold as the evaporation process only works during dry weather.

However, the informative Les Salines de Yemen, which is an operational salt farm, and museum, was open. The museum, which is located on the main highway, describes every aspect of salt production and includes a gift shop where you can purchase a salty souvenir. The museum is housed inside a small salt warehouse which is surrounded by a number of salt pans, all of which are open to visitors.

La Preneuse

A former defence structure, the Martello tower is now a museum.

Tucked away among a stand of casuarina trees, overlooking La Preneuse Beach, is a beautifully restored Martello tower, which once served as part of a larger, west coast, defence system.

Famous for their perfectly conical shape, Martello towers were invented by the French, but the British, who first saw them during a battle on Corsica, were so impressed, they replicated the design and exported it around the world to various colonies.

Another fine example of a Martello tower can be found on Bermuda, and is featured in my Bermuda Travel Guide.

Originally, five, basalt-stone, towers were built on the west coast of Mauritius to defend the island against a possible French invasion.

The towers never saw action and today, the last remaining tower at La Preneuse Beach has been restored and converted into a museum. As part of a visit, you can climb to the top of the tower, which affords panoramic views of the Indian ocean.

Le Morne

The landscape of Le Morne peninsula is dominated by the dramatic Le Morne Brabant.

Le Morne is a peninsula at the extreme southwestern tip of the island – the last destination before making a sharp left-turn onto the short south coast.

The peninsula of Le Morne has the distinction of being one of two UNESCO World Heritage sites on Mauritius, along with Aapravasi Ghat. The landscape of the peninsula is dominated by Le Morne Brabant, a basaltic monolith which rises to a height of 556 metres (1,824 ft) above sea level.

The mountain, which is riddled with caves, was a favoured hideaway for escaped slaves. Following the abolition of slavery, all slaves on Mauritius were declared free on the 1st of February 1835.

On this day, the British army started to climb Le Morne Brabant with the intention of telling the slaves that they were free.  Unfortunately, due to a massive distrust of the authorities, the slaves immediately thought the army had been sent to recapture them and chose to jump to their deaths instead of risk recapture. A monument to the slaves has been installed on the beach at the base of the mountain.

While private resorts in La Morne may have grabbed the best waterfront property, the beautiful, sandy beach is open to the public.

The photo featured above was taken from the beach, in front of the chic, LUX Le Morne resort. While the security guards will not let non-guests enter the resort from the road, you can park your car at either end of the property and walk onto the beach, where you’ll get the best views of the mountain

Chamarel

The view from Chamarel over the southwest coast, including Ile aux Benitiers and Le Morne Brabant.

Located a short drive inland from the southwest coast, and perched at an elevation of 260 m (850 ft), the tiny, hillside, village of Chamarel packs in a lot of attractions, both natural and man-made.

Several of the main attractions are located inside the Chamarel Seven Coloured Earth Geopark, a privately-owned park which is home to several attractions, including the Chamarel waterfall, the Seven Coloured Earth attraction, and an Ebony forest.

Chamarel Waterfall

At 100 metres, the spectacular Charmarel falls are the tallest single-drop waterfall on Mauritius.

Once you enter the grounds of the Geopark, a windy, tarmac road meanders its way to the first attraction – the spectacular Chamarel Waterfall.

The falls mark the point where the St. Deors river plunges over a basalt cliff, becoming the Cap river, which then flows into the Indian ocean at Baie du Cap.

The entire landscape, which has been shaped by volcanic forces, is wild, lush and green. A viewing balcony offers front row seats to the falls, while a short, uphill, walking trail leads to even better views.

Seven Coloured Earth

One of the highlights of Mauritius – ‘Seven Coloured Earth’ in Charmarel.

Further along the road lies the incredible Seven Coloured Earth attraction. Looking like a giant-sized work of ‘sand art’, these sand dunes formed millions of years ago from the decomposition of volcanic rock.

The different colours are the result of different minerals present in the soil, with iron and aluminium being responsible for red and blue/purplish colours respectively.

Originally from the Seychelles, giant Aldabra tortoises can be seen at the Seven Coloured Earth attraction.

Mauritius was once home to giant tortoises which, like the Dodo, became extinct once humans arrived on the island.

While there are no endemic tortoises on Mauritius, a group of six giant Aldabra tortoises have been introduced from the Seychelles and can be seen lazing about in the shade of their pen at the Seven Coloured Earth attraction.

Rhumerie de Chamarel

A selection of rums at the Rhumerie de Chamarel Distillery.

Lunchtime is the best time to schedule a visit to the Rhumerie de Chamarel Distillery. Located a short drive up the hill from the Geopark, this busy tourist complex includes an amazing restaurant, L’Alchimiste which offers a unique cuisine which is prepared using products sourced from the estate. Their fresh garden salads are especially recommended.

A highlight of the Rhumerie is of course their rums, which are served by the friendly bar staff, who offer the complete range, served neat or in a variety of cocktails.

The distillery is open for guided tours (Rs370), but – if you dine in the restaurant (a must!), you receive the tour for free.

Around the Island – South Coast

A view of the windy south coast road from the Captain Matthew Flinders Monument.

Located on a tight bend, along the south coast road, 500-m west of Baie du Cap, is a monument, which was erected in 2003 to honour the 200th anniversary of the arrival of the famous English navigator and cartographer – Captain Matthew Flinders. His arrival, however, was less than auspicious!

A chimney from an abandoned sugar mill on the south coast of Mauritius.

While heading back to England in 1803, Flinders’ vessel needed urgent repairs. At the time, England and France were at war, and, once the Englishman landed on Mauritius, he was arrested by the French governor, who kept him under arrest for 6 years.

The roadside monument is accessible via a set of stairs which mount a small, rocky promontory.

A giant, drive-thru, Banyan tree, on the south coast of Mauritius.

Around the Island – East Coast

Blue Bay

Tranquil and relaxed, Blue Bay offers wonderful snorkelling, swimming and a host of decent accommodation options (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below for more). The Blue Bay Marine Park is the main attraction with a multitude of corals and fish species in a depth of just a few metres.

Blue Bay is the closest resort area to the airport (located at the southern end of the runway) and is ideally placed for anyone who has an early morning departure or late evening arrival.

I used Blue Bay as my base to explore the east coast.

Mahébourg

A view of Grand Port, and the tiny islet of Mouchoir Rouge, from the waterfront promenade in Mahébourg.

The main town on the southeast coast, Mahébourg was founded in 1805 by the French, who named the town in honour of Mahé de La Bourdonnais, a previous French governor. Prior to the French, the Dutch had used the area for their original settlement, which they abandoned in 1710.

While the town was once a busy port, today it is a quiet backwater, offering a bustling town centre, colourful market, a small fleet of fishing boats, a pleasant waterfront promenade and an excellent museum.

A memorial on the waterfront in Mahébourg illustrates the 1810 battle between the French and British.

During the Napoleonic wars, Mauritius had become a base from which French corsairs organised successful raids on British commercial ships.

The raids continued until August of 1810 when a strong British expedition was sent to capture the island. While the ensuring battle was won by the French, the British regrouped on nearby Rodrigues, returning in December of the same year, at which point they overpowered the French, taking control of the island.

A memorial on the waterfront commemorates this battle.

The gigantic, pebbly, ‘Statue of Harmony’ on the waterfront in Mahébourg.

One of the more curious sights on the waterfront is the gigantic ‘Statue of Harmony – Swami Sivananda‘ which was built by volunteers in 1977. Looking very much like a school project, the statue is made of concrete which is completely covered in pebbles.

The highlight of Mahébourg- the excellent National History Museum.

The best museum on Mauritius, the National History Museum in Mahébourg, is housed inside a former colonial mansion which has played a key role in the history of the island.

It was here in 1810 that the injured commanders of the French and English fleets were taken for treatment after the Battle of Vieux Grand Port. The story of the battle is told in the museum, which also includes displays on the fauna and flora of the island.

The highlight of the museum is a completely intact skeleton of the extinct Dodo (refer to the photo in the ‘Dodo‘ section above), the only such skeleton in existence.

Falaise Rouge

A stunning view of Grand Port and Lion mountain from Falaise Rouge.

A short drive south of Mahebourg, just before Ferney, a signposted, right-hand turn, leads down a dirt lane-way, which is lined with coconut palms.

At the end of the lane-way lies the wonderful Falaise Rouge restaurant, which is perched on top of a coastal cliff. Offering wonderful cuisine and stunning views of Grand Port and Lion mountain, this is an ideal place to stop for lunch (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more).

Ferney

A rather dilapidated monument marks the spot where the Dutch first landed on Mauritius in 1598.

Just beyond Falaise Rouge, in the small hamlet of Ferney, lies a very dilapidated stone monument which marks the spot where the first Dutch sailors landed on Mauritius on the 20th of September 1598. A small trail leads to the monument which has been erected on the shores of Port Grand.

Although the Dutch landed on the island in 1598, they didn’t settle on Mauritius until 1638, at which point it became an official settlement of the Dutch East India Company. The Dutch introduced sugar cane, rice, tobacco, oranges, deer and the first slaves to the island. They remained on the island until 1710, at which point the French invaded and took control.

Sadly, the arrival of humans, on this previously uninhabited island, marked the beginning of the end for the now-extinct Dodo which was hunted for food.

Devil’s Point

A French canon at Devil’s Point.

It is said that geomagnetic forces once sent ships’ compasses awry as they passed this headland, leading to its name, Devil’s Point, or Pointe du Diable.

Today, it’s a viewpoint with views over Grand Port – two 18th century cannons remain from the French fortifications.

Belle Mare Beach

Thatched umbrellas provide shade on the east coast beach of Belle Mare.

Further north, along the east coast, lies the popular beach of Belle Mare, one of the few sandy beaches on this side of the island which is accessible to the public.

Located between the towns of Belle Mare and Pointe de Flacq, this white-sand beach, with its pristine turquoise water, is considered to be one of the most beautiful beaches on Mauritius.

Bras D’Eau National Park

A view of the forest from inside the ruins of a windmill at Bras d’Eau National park.

If anywhere in Mauritius is off-the-beaten-track, then it must be the rarely visited Bras d’Eau National Park, one of just 3 National parks on Mauritius. Located on the northeast coast, near the settlement of Poste Lafayette, the park is one of only three national parks on Mauritius and one of the few places where you can walk through native forest.

Originally introduced from Madagascar, the Red Fody can be seen in Bras d’Eau National Park.

After the arrival of humans on the island, and the introduction of sugar cane farming, most of the native forest on Mauritius was destroyed. Today, a small section of forest exists at Bras D’Eau national park, which can be accessed via a walking trail.

The forest is a good place to spot different birds, although many are not native to the island.

Walking trail in the Bras d’Eau National Park.

Along with a visitors’ centre, the park also features the ruins of a 200-year-old sugar mill and lime kiln.

Around the Island – North West Coast

Grande Baie

The beach at Grand Baie.

Grand Baie (Grand Bay) is the most popular destination on Mauritius. Home to a protected, sandy beach, a multitude of accommodation, dining and entertainment options, Grand Baie is a bustling, thriving, tourist centre.

A Hindu shrine at the Shiv Kalyan Vath Mandir in Grand Baie.

If you’re looking for sun, sand and sea, Grand Baie offers facilities for safe swimming, sailing, windsurfing, and water skiing, and it is also the departure point for deep sea fishing trips and for boat excursions to the islands to the north of Mauritius.

The protected waters of Grand Baie beach are popular with families.

After hours, the many bars, restaurants and cafes of Grand Baie draw the crowds from near and far. If you are driving however, be aware of the strict, zero tolerance laws regarding drink driving (see the ‘Rental Car‘ section for more on this).

Mont Choisy Beach

Lined with Casuarinas trees, Mont Choisy is the longest beach in the north of Mauritius.

Located between Grand Baie and Trou aux Biche, Mont Choisy beach is the longest beach in the north of Mauritius. This gently arcing beach is lined by thousands of large Casuarinas trees, and is a popular place with sun worshippers from nearby resorts.

A beach-side Hindu temple at Mont Choisy beach.

At the southern end of the beach, is a small Hindu temple which features colourful gods and goddesses.

Trou-aux-Biches

Home to a wonderful beach, many hotels and dive shops, the west coast fishing village of Trou-aux-Biches is popular with tourists.

My first residence on Mauritius was across the road from the long, sandy beach at Trou-aux-Biches, a west coast fishing village which is located in the district of Pamplemousses.

According to some, Trou-aux-Biches is home to one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. If you’re interested in snorkelling or diving, there are many operators in the area with several impressive reefs lying offshore.

The beach is lined with hotels, resorts and guest houses with lots of restaurants catering to hungry tourists. Frequent buses connect the village with Grand Baie, which lies 8-km to the north.

Scuba Diving

While on Mauritius, I did two dives with the amazing team from Dive Spirit who operate from La Tonnelle Villa. If you’re interested in obtaining your PADI certification, the dive shop conduct training courses using the hotel swimming pool.

Dive trips are conducted twice a day, visiting different reefs which lie off the coast of Trou-aux-Biches with each dive costing Rs1,500 (USD$40).

Mapou

The Château de Labourdonnais is one of the most significant historical sights on Mauritius.

There’s just one reason to visit the sleepy, inland settlement of Mapou – the impressive Château de Labourdonnais. Located a few kilometres from the main highway, a short drive south of Grand Baie, this fully restored, imposing, Victorian-era mansion is located on an historic sugarcane plantation.

The dining hall at Château de Labourdonnais is lined with hand-painted wallpaper.

Built in 1856, the Château is the crown jewel of Mauritius’ national heritage. Located at the end of a tree-lined avenue, this large mansion was fully restored in 2006, and offers a glimpse into the lives of sugarcane plantation owners in the 19th century.

The Labourdonnais distillery produces both dark and white rums.

The Château is one of the main rum distilleries on Mauritius with tastings being offered, after you have concluded your visit to the mansion – (see the ‘Rum‘ section below for more details).

The Village Weaver, which was introduced to Mauritius, can be observed in the garden at Château de Labourdonnais.

The Château is surrounded by an extensive garden, which includes a large number of fruit trees and endemic species. The garden is an ideal place to photograph local bird life.

Pamplemousses

The giant ‘Victoria amazonica’ water lilies are a highlight of the Botanical Garden.

Located in the town of Pamplemousse, a short drive north of Port Louis, is one of the most popular ‘inland’ attractions on Mauritius – the Mauritius National Botanical Garden, which is open every day from 08:30 am to 5:00 pm.

The garden was initially opened nearly 300 years ago as a private garden by none other than François Mahé de Labourdonnais, who was the governor at the time. It has the distinction of being the oldest botanical garden in the Southern Hemisphere.

One of the main attractions of the garden is the large rectangular pond which is crammed with giant ‘Victoria amazonica‘ water lilies. Discovered in the Amazon, and named after Queen Victoria, the lilies were introduced to the gardens in 1927. These giant lilies sprout leaves which can grow up to 3 metres in diameter with spectacular flowers, which burst to life, then die two days later.

The botanical garden is home to no less than 85 different varieties of palm trees.

Another highlight of the garden are the 85 different varieties of palm trees brought from different parts of the globe. Apart from these, the gardens are home to more than 650 varieties of plants from all corners of the world. You could easily spend hours meandering along the many miles of pathways inside the garden.

Château Mon Plaisir was purchased in 1735 by Mahé de Labourdonnais who then surrounded the property with an extensive garden.

Also, part of the gardens is Château Mon Plaisir which was originally purchased in 1735 by the governor Mahé de Labourdonnais who then ordered a garden to be built which would provide produce for the colonial. This was the genesis of today’s Botanical garden.

Sadly, at the time of my visit, this historically important residence was in a state of disrepair with the entire upper floor serving as a large pigeon coup, with all the associated mess staining the walls and floor. The government has announced a project to renovate the Château.

Accommodation

As tourism is the main industry on the island, it’s not surprising that there is a plethora of accommodation options to be found all around the island.

Booking.com currently list 800 properties while Hotels.com list 720 properties with options available in all budget categories.

Due to the size of the island, if you wish to fully explore every nook and cranny, you’ll need to relocate at some stage. Trying to explore the south coast from Grand Baie is achievable, but you’ll spend a large part of your day on the road and stuck in traffic. I stayed on the west coast in Trou aux Biche and Grand Baie and on the east coast at Blue Bay.

Trou aux Biche

My room at La Tonnelle.
Source: La Tonnelle Hotel

While in Trou aux Biche, I stayed at La Tonnelle, which is one block back from the beach and offers very nice rooms at Rs2,300 (USD$63) per night, including breakfast.

If you’re interested in Scuba diving, the hotel has a dive shop – Dive Spirit – which is very popular with visiting tourists and local divers. I spent a day diving with Dive Spirit and would recommend them.

For more on Scuba diving, please refer to ‘Scuba Diving‘ in the sightseeing section.

Grand Baie

The bedroom of my villa at Villa Narmada in Grand Baie.

After a few nights in Trou aux Biche, I relocated to the much busier, tourist resort town of Grand Baie, which offers more accommodation options than any other single location on the island.

If you wish to be close to restaurants, bars, cafés, shopping malls, supermarkets and a fine beach (without needing to rely on transportation), then Grand Baie is the place to be.

If you’re driving a rental car, Grand Baie offers quick access to the highway and, hence, the rest of the island.

While in Grand Baie, I stayed at Villa Narmada, which offers a variety of 1 and 2-bedroom, self-catering apartments, all within walking distance of downtown Grand Baie.

Each villa offers a balcony, which overlooks a central courtyard and swimming pool with a 1-bedroom apartment costing me Rs1,500 (USD$40) per night, which represented very good value.

Blue Bay

My cosy and stylish room at the ‘Explora Prestige’ guesthouse in Blue Bay.

In order to explore the south and west coasts of Mauritius, I relocated from Grand Baie to the very beautiful, and much quieter, Blue bay, which is a short drive from Mahebourg and an even shorter drive from the airport.

I stayed at the Explora Prestige guest house, where a comfortable room (with breakfast) cost Rs2,000 (USD$55) per night. The guest house is a short walk from the bay which offers excellent snorkelling.

Eating Out

With the influx of settlers, slaves and servants, migration brought people and different cuisines to Mauritius. The cuisine of the country reflects its ethnic diversity, being a blend of African, Chinese, European and Indian influences – a cuisine which is a ‘melting pot of flavours’.

As with accommodation options, there’s no shortage of restaurants on Mauritius, from expensive fine dining to tasty and affordable street food.

Restaurants

A restaurant with a view, ‘Falaise Rouge’ overlooks the Indian ocean, north of Maheboug.

I ate at many fine restaurants while on Mauritius, but one standout was Falaise Rouge, a restaurant offering Creole cuisine with spectacular views of the Indian ocean. The restaurant is perched on the edge of a seaside cliff, between Mahébourg and View Grand Port, on the southeast coast.

Cafés

My favourite sofa (with the ‘Traveller’ cushion) at Cafe de la Presse.

Port Louis is blessed with a number of fine cafés. My pick of the bunch is the wonderful Café de la Presse which is located on the first floor of an historic building on La Chaussée (street) in downtown Port Louis.

From its setting in a charming building, to its stylish design, its wonderful, fresh, tasty food to its amazing coffee, friendly staff, great service, ambience and constant buzz from locals who gather to share lunch and conduct office meetings, this café hits the mark.

A great lunch at Café de la Presse – a fresh, crusty baguette with chicken and salad served with a robust cafe latte.

A selection of local dishes is offered from a regular menu and from a ‘Menu de la Semaine’ (weekly menu) with the variety of dishes reflecting the diversity of the island – from Creole to Asian to European.

A favourite lunch of mine was a sandwich, which was made from a crusty baguette and stuffed with freshly roasted chicken and salad. Divine!

I found a reason, more than once, to return to Port Louis to have lunch at Café de la Presse.

A café latte and an amazing ‘mille-feuille’ at Café de la Presse.

The selection of pastries at Café de la Presse is also delectable, especially their flaky mille-feuille. You just have to ignore the calorie count!

Rum

The oldest distillery on Mauritius, Labourdonnais has been distilling rum since 1771!

Now to one of my favourite subjects – Rum!

Wherever you have sugar plantations, you’ll find a rum distillery nearby. Rum is an alcoholic beverage which is made by fermenting, then distilling, sugarcane molasses or sugarcane juice – it’s a by-product of sugar manufacture.

A couple of years ago, I spent an extended period of time meandering through the 33 countries and territories which comprise the Caribbean region. Most of the Caribbean islands, like Mauritius (and neighbouring Réunion) started life as sugar-producing colonies and most of them have been distilling rum for as long as they have been growing sugarcane.

While in the Caribbean, I enjoyed sampling many smooth rums and was very happy to find a local rum industry on Mauritius, and can attest that Mauritians rums are as good as their Caribbean rivals.

The most quaffable rums I sampled are distilled by Labourdonnais who are part of the Domaine de Labourdonnais, the original sugar plantation on Mauritius. The distillery has been distilling rum since 1771.

Bars

Rhumerie de Chamarel

The barman at the Rhumerie de Chamarel – everyone’s best friend!

A mix of both ample rum, and holiday-makers, guarantees a lively bar scene anywhere, and Mauritius is no exception.

Located a short drive from the ‘Coloured Earths of Chamarel, the Rhumerie de Chamarel sits perched on a hillside, 300 metres above the southwest coast of Mauritius. Of all the distilleries on the island, this is the most commercial, with the large car park often full with tour buses.

Banana Beach Club

The full range of craft beers from the local Thirsty Fox brewery is available at the Banana Beach Club.

The popular tourist neighbourhood of Grand Baie offers plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants. One of the most popular and liveliest bars is the Banana Beach Club which is located on the main road, overlooking the beach.

Centred around a towering Flamboyant tree, the bar features live music, great cocktails, buckets of beer, dancing, an agreeable ambience and everything else required for a good night out.

The highlight for me was the opportunity to sample the full range of locally brewed craft beers, which are produced by the Thirsty Fox brewery. The brewery, which was founded by a couple of cousins, produces four beers, all of which are very palatable – a Lager, Pale Ale, Amber Ale and a Weiss.

Visa Requirements

Mauritius Passport Stamps.

Almost all nationalities are entitled to receive a visa on arrival, when arriving at Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport, the only international gateway to Mauritius.

Like neighbouring Seychelles, Mauritian immigration officials will normally request to see a return flight and a hotel reservation. To check your visa requirements, you should consult the current Visa Policy of Mauritius.

Getting There

The Mauritian arrival card features the Dodo.

Air

The departure hall of Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport.

Flights to Mauritius arrive at Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam (SSR) International Airport (IATA: MRU), which is named after the first prime minister of Mauritius and was previously known as Plaisance International Airport.

This very modern airport, whose new passenger terminal was inaugurated in 2013, is located on the southeast coast, and is connected to Port Louis (48 km / 26 mi to the northwest) via an excellent highway.

The airport serves as the only international gateway to Mauritius and is the base for the country’s national airline Air Mauritius.

The following airlines provided scheduled services to/ from Mauritius:

Air Austral – flies to/ from Saint-Denis de la Réunion, Saint-Pierre de la Réunion
Air France – flies to/ from Paris–Charles de Gaulle
Air Madagascar – flies to/ from Antananarivo
Air Mauritius – flies to/ from Antananarivo, Bengaluru, Cape Town, Chennai, Dar es Salaam, Delhi, Durban, Hong Kong, Johannesburg–O. R. Tambo, Kuala Lumpur–International, London–Heathrow, Mahé, Mumbai, Nairobi–Jomo Kenyatta, Paris–Charles de Gaulle, Perth, Rodrigues, Saint-Denis de la Réunion, Saint-Pierre de la Réunion, Shanghai–Pudong, Singapore
Air Seychelles – flies to/ from Mahé
British Airways – flies to/ from Johannesburg–O. R. Tambo, London–Gatwick
Condor – flies to/ from Frankfurt
Corsair International – flies to/ from Paris–Orly
Edelweiss Air – flies to/ from Zürich
Emirates – flies to/ from Dubai–International
Kenya Airways – flies to/ from Nairobi–Jomo Kenyatta
Saudia – flies to/ from Jeddah, Riyadh
South African Airways – flies to/ from Johannesburg–O. R. Tambo
TUI Airways – flies to/ from London–Gatwick
Turkish Airlines – flies to/ from Istanbul

Departure board at Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport.

Airport Transport

Bus

The only form of public transport from the airport is bus, with the following three routes offered:

Bus route #9: connects Mahebourg to Curepipe
Bus route #10: Mahebourg to Rivière des Gallets
Bus route #198: connects Mahebourg to Port Louis (Victoria Square Bus Station), an 85-minute journey.

For more on bus services, please refer to the ‘Getting Around‘ section below.

Taxi

Approved airport taxis can be hired at the airport. The airport authority, ATOL, publishes a list of rates on its website. You should always confirm the rate prior to the commencement of your journey.

Rental Car

Rental cars are popular on the island with many visitors (including myself) opting to collect a rental car at the airport.

There are currently 12 car rental agents operating at the airport with each agent allocated just a few parking spaces, which has resulted in chronic over-crowding, and congestion, in the rental car area of the car park.

If you prefer to hire a car elsewhere on the island, once you’ve settled in and relaxed after your long-haul flight, there are plenty of agencies scattered around the island who will deliver cars to your accommodation.

For more information on Rental Cars, please refer to the ‘Getting Around‘ section below.

Visiting Réunion

Réunion is full of interesting wildlife, such as the striking Panther Chameleon, which was introduced to the island from Madagascar.

If you’re in the region and have the time (and money), you should seriously consider adding the French territory of Réunion to your travel plans. You can read all about this fascinating destination in my Réunion Travel Guide. I spent two weeks exploring the territory with a rental car and still didn’t cover everything. One of my favourite destinations of 2019!

One thing to be aware of however, is that the 45 minute, 226-km flight between Mauritius and Réunion is the only connection between the two neighbouring islands and is considered to be one of the most expensive international flights in the world, based on kilometres travelled. I met few people on Mauritius who had been to Réunion and vice-versa.

Flights are offered by Air Mauritius (the preferred choice) and Air Austral (a distant 2nd), the airline of Réunion. A one-way ticket with Air Austral currently costs €248 (USD$274/ Rs10,100) while a return ticket costs a little less at €218 (USD$240 / Rs8,900).

Roland Garros Airport is the international gateway to Réunion.

The best way to reduce the high cost of the flight is to book a multi-city ticket with Air Austral, using Roland Garros International Airport as your hub. I constructed a ticket, which took me to several regional destinations, including from Mauritius to Reunion, then – the French territory of Mayotte (click to view my Mayotte Travel Guide), then back to Reunion, then finally onto the Seychelles, all over a period of 2 months. The cost of all segments was significantly cheaper than had I booked the flights individually.

Air Austral, who have a small fleet, but a busy timetable, are far from reliable with flights often being cancelled or running late. If you plan an itinerary with Air Austral, it’s best to avoid tight connection times.

Sea

Regular cruise ships call at Port Louis from October to May of each year. You can view the current schedule here.

Getting Around

Bus

Most places on Mauritius can be reached by bus, although patience is required.

If you wish to rub shoulders with the friendly Mauritians (highly recommended!), there’s no better way than to spend time riding on one of the many island buses. Buses are offered by several companies who operate under the umbrella of the National Transport Authority of Mauritius.

The Mauritius Bus website allows you to search bus routes between different points on the island.

There’s no single bus which circumnavigates the island, with most buses connecting in either Port Louis (for the busy west coast services) or Mahebourg (for the quieter east coast services). Tickets are very reasonably priced, costing Rs15 (USD$0.40) for a short trip, and Rs30 (USD$0.80) for a longer journey.

Bus travel times can be long and schedules unpredictable. If you wish to maximise your time, and your sightseeing, on the island, a rental car is essential (see the ‘Rental Car‘ section below for more).

Bus fares in Mauritius are always paid to the conductor.

Taxi

Best to be avoided!

Unfortunately, there are many unscrupulous taxi drivers on Mauritius, with the worst of them operating at night when the buses are no longer in service. Without any ride sharing app such as Uber available, and no meters in use, you’re at the mercy of the drivers who could be accused of highway robbery.

Prior to using a taxi, you should consult with a local to ascertain the correct fare – although at the end of the day, drivers will normally try to overcharge tourists.

Metro Express

The first light rail system in the Indian Ocean!

An artist impression of a Metro Express station.
Source: https://www.mauritiusmetroexpress.mu/

The Metro Express is a 26 km (16 mi) light rail system, which is being constructed in two phases, by an Indian company:

Phase 1: The first phase has been completed and includes 7 stations between Port Louis and Rose Hill. The line was inaugurated on the 3rd of October 2019 by Mauritius Prime Minister Pravind Jugnauth and Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi.
Phase 2: Will include an additional 12 stations and extend the line from Rose Hill to Curepipe. It’s due to open in September 2021.

Metro Express Route Map.
Source: https://www.lexpress.mu/

Rental Car

The license plate on my rental car.

The best way to maximise your time on Mauritius is to rent a car. There are currently 12 car rental agents operating at the airport and many more at various locations around the island, including the popular tourist enclave of Grand Baie.

I rented an economy-sized car (US$50 per day) through Budget, for a period of 13 days, which allowed me to fully explore the island.

A few considerations to take into account when driving on Mauritius:

Left-Hand Traffic (LHT): Cars drive on the left-hand side of the road, although it could be argued that Mauritians drive on whichever side of the road offers the most shade!
Zero Alcohol: The Mauritian Police force have a zero tolerance towards drunk drivers. If you are driving, you should not drink. You can learn about the limits here.
Transmission: There are far more manual cars on Mauritius than automatic. If you must drive an automatic, be sure to confirm availability with the rental agency.
Highways: Mauritius has only one highway. The highway starts at the airport, situated in the South East of the Island, and ends in the North of the Island at Grand Baie. The speed limit is often 110 km/hr, but much slower in and around Port Louis, where the highway is always congested, with many roundabouts becoming bottle-necks during the rush hour.
Primary Roads: Away from the highways, all other roads are very narrow, windy, poorly lit at night and have a speed limit of 60 to 80 km/hour. There are few footpaths so you need to take it slow and avoid the numerous pedestrians who have no choice but to walk on the road. The primary roads do not have shoulders and often drop into deep trenches without guard rails.
Local Drivers: Mauritians will stop their car and block the lane where and when it suits them, without any warning.

Did you know: Right-Hand Traffic (RHT) is used in 165 countries and territories, while Left-Hand Traffic (LHT) is used in the remaining 75 countries and territories.

Parking in Port Louis

Parking coupons need to be displayed whenever you park on the street in Port Louis.

Driving a car into the congested, narrow, chaotic streets of downtown Port Louis is best avoided! Better to take a bus. Added to the stress is the fact that finding parking can be a nightmare.

Parking Stations

Despite being a large, bustling city, which is full of cars, there are just two small parking stations which I found:

The parking station at Le Caudan Waterfront which is open from 7 am to 11 pm and costs Rs 50 per hour.
There’s a 2nd (smaller) parking station located on Rue St. Georges, around the corner from Cafe de la Presse. I always used this station but cannot recall the name and cannot find it on Google. It also charged Rs 50 per hour.

Street Parking

If you park on the street in downtown Port Louis, you’ll need to display a valid parking coupon on the dashboard of your car. The coupons cost Rs 20 each and are sold in booklets of 10 at any petrol station. The duration of the coupon is either half an hour or one hour, depending on the zone. You can use multiple coupons to allow for parking up to 2 hours.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Réunion Travel Guide

5 years ago

Darren McLean

Réunion Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Réunion Travel Guide!

Date Visited: March 2019

Introduction

If I had to nominate my most rewarding and surprising travel destination, so far in 2019, it would have to be Réunion! Prior to my arrival, I had met no one who had been to the island and I had little idea of what awaited me.

A view of the Piton de la Fournaise, one of the world’s most active volcano’s which erupted one month before my visit.

Wow! My only problem in the end was that the two weeks I had allocated, was not enough – there was still so much more to see.

So many breath-taking views on Réunion, including this one of the <i>Plaine des Sables</i> at the Piton de la Fournaise volcano.

So many breath-taking views on Réunion, including this one of the Plaine des Sables at the Piton de la Fournaise volcano.

If you’ve ever considered visiting this remote French territory, located in the middle of the Indian Ocean, I would encourage you to do so. Apart from the French, very few people knew of the existence or whereabouts of Réunion, but that changed in 2015, when the island made worldwide news after a piece of debris from a plane, thought to be from MH370, washed up on its volcanic shores.

Tourism is an important part of the economy but the island does little to promote itself and almost all visitors are French tourists who arrive from metropolitan France. The approach to tourism could be summed up as – ‘By the French, for the French!‘. With almost all signage in French and locals unwilling (or unable) to speak anything other than French, the island is best suited to visitors who can converse in French.

A view of the Plaine des Sables from my helicopter flight.

Reunion, which is an overseas department of France (department #974), it’s incredibly beautiful, a fascinating, engaging destination which is fully developed and easy to explore. I returned for a second visit, after a side trip to Mayotte (another nearby French territory), and was very happy to be back on the island and would return again given the opportunity.

If you imagine the island to be an Indian ocean backwater then you’ll be surprised to find that Reunion is a thoroughly modern place. The French authorities have invested a huge amount of money developing the territory and, at times, it’s hard to know if you’re in the Indian Ocean or somewhere on the French Riviera.

Modern houses and apartments line pristine streets, locals drive their flashy cars to the local shopping centre to shop for the latest electronic gadgets and fancy boutiques sell current European fashions.

A hand-painted Reunion sarong features a fiery Piton de la Fournaise.

While French is the official language, most islanders speak Réunion Creole. The Reunionnais are friendly and welcoming but more reserved than their neighbours on Mauritius.

If you wish to gain some insights into life on Reunion, a local website – Apressi.re – features content (in French) based on local news and tips. Apreci in creole means enjoy and was launched a year ago by 2 journalists, one from France, the other from Australia.

While sipping a coffee at the Coffee Shop de Bourbon in downtown St. Denis, I was interviewed by Soe, the Australian half of the team.

The dramatic and immense volcano landscapes on Reunion make for impressive photography, best appreciated from a helicopter sightseeing tour.

What makes the island such a rewarding travel destination is its truly astonishing diversity of landscapes. Rising from the Indian Ocean, this huge volcanic, basalt rock is cloaked in lush green vegetation. The island is a scenically magical place, which features two volcanic systems, high plains, soaring peaks, deep ravines, canyons, waterfalls, beaches and more.

The Formica Leo crater at the Piton de la Fournaise volcano.

How diverse are the landscapes? While on the beach at St. Gilles, you can be sweltering away in temperatures approaching 40 degrees (C) and humidity near to 100%. A short drive up the slope of the volcano will bring you to Le Maïdo, which, at an elevation of 2,200 metres, is often cloaked in cool fog, subject to sudden rainstorms and experiences average daytime temperatures of just 15 degrees (C).

Cars parked in a car park (bottom right) inside the Cirque de Salazie provide a sense of scale for the towering walls which encircle the three cirques.

If you love hiking or the outdoors, Reunion is your nirvana! Apart from hiking, the island offers many activities such as paragliding, canyoning, mountain biking, rafting, Scuba diving, fishing, whale-watching, helicopter flights and more.

What are you waiting for?

Location

Located well off the tourist radar, in the middle of the Indian Ocean, the French territory of Réunion (French: La Réunion) lies 944 km (587 mi) east of Madagascar – 1,435 km (892 mi) southeast of Mayotte and 175 km (109 mi) southwest of Mauritius.

At 2,512 square kilometres (970 square miles), it is the largest of the Mascarene islands, a volcanic chain of islands which include neighbouring Mauritius and Rodrigues.

Réunion is located above a hot-spot in the Earth’s crust and was formed by two volcanic systems, one now dormant, Piton des Neiges, and one still very much active, Piton de la Fournaise.

An artist’s depiction of an eruption of the Piton de la Fournaise, displayed at the Volcano House museum.

The island’s topography is incredibly mountainous, with the highest peak, the Piton des Neiges (Snow Peak) reaching 3,069 m (10,069 ft). High plains separate the two systems with the surrounding landscape punctuated by incredibly deep canyons and ravines.

‘Living on the Edge’ – houses built close to the edge of a deep gorge, as seen from my helicopter flight over Réunion Island.

The coastline of Reunion is exposed, rocky and treacherous with one small stretch on the west coast protected by an offshore reef and offering white sandy beaches. There are many reasons to visit Réunion, however beach tourism isn’t one of them, with much nicer beaches available on Mauritius or the Seychelles.

A view from my helicopter flight of the north-west coast shows the coral reef and the lagoon which offers the only protected swimming on Réunion Island.

People

A painting depicting Réunionnais at an exhibition at the Musée de Villèle.

Prior to the discovery of the island by the Portuguese in the 16th century, Reunion was a remote, uninhabited outpost. The French took control of the island in the early 1600’s and began colonising it from 1665.

In the following centuries, the island was used as an important stopover point for trade boats plying the waters between Asia, Europe, Africa and the Middle East. This attracted settlers from France, Madagascar, Mozambique, India, China and the Comoros.

An exhibition at the Musée de Villèle tells the story of Reunion’s days of slavery.

Slaves were introduced to the island to work on sugar plantations, and – following the abolition of slavery – indentured labourers from South India were brought to the island.

As of 2019, Réunion had an ethnically diverse population of 866,506, a population with a mixed Creole culture. Not all inhabitants identify themselves as Creole, especially the approximately 100,000 French mainlander’s who dominate the island’s administration and economy.

Fauna & Flora

Like so many creatures on Reunion, the striking Panther Chameleon was introduced to the island from Madagascar.

Fauna

More than a third of Réunion’s surface area is still covered with native forests and wild plants, providing a rich environment for the island’s fauna. Being a remote island, Réunion is home to a limited variety of native animals, most of which are birds, however many species have been introduced from neighbouring Madagascar.

The island is largely a safe place to explore, with no venomous animals, however, signs on the beaches warn of the possibility of shark attacks.

Being ‘eye-balled’ by a male Panther Chameleon.

Various species of Chameleons have been introduced to Reunion from Madagascar, including the stunningly beautiful Panther Chameleon. I was fortunate to spot a male and female pair lazing in a shrub while on the way to the Grand Galet waterfall. They were happy to pose for photo’s which I can share with you here.

Much smaller and far less striking than the male, this female Panther Chameleon was hanging out in a shrub next to her male partner.

The much more colourful male can grow up to 20 centimetres in length, while the much less flamboyant females reach about half that size. When carrying eggs, females – such as the one pictured above – typically turn dark brown or black with orange striping to signify to males they have no intention of mating.

The Day gecko was introduced to Reunion Island from Madagascar.

Another common sight on Reunion, and another species introduced from Madagascar, is the (very green) Day gecko. As their name suggests, day geckos are active mainly during the day, which is in contrast to most other gecko species. These guys love nectar, pollen and anything sweet. More than once, I enticed them to lick the jam off my knife while having breakfast. Very cute to watch their little pink tongues in action!

The ‘Madagascar Red Fody’ was introduced to Reunion from – guess where?

Another common sight on Reunion, and yet another species introduced from Madagascar, the brilliantly orange Madagascar Red Fody always contrasts starkly against the lush green vegetation and is impossible to miss as it darts before your eyes in an orange flash.

The very curious, Reunion Stone-chat is endemic to the island and can be found in high-altitude forests and scrub lands.

One of my favourite birds on the island is the Reunion Stone-chat, which is intensely curious and friendly and will always come close to investigate you. These social creatures can be found on the higher slopes of the volcanoes, where they inhabit high-altitude forests and scrub lands.

Flora

Vanilla is widely grown on Reunion and is an important export item.

While not native to the island, the vanilla plant is widely cultivated and is an important export item. Introduced to Reunion at the beginning of the 19th century, from Mexico, French colonists wanted to start vanilla production on the island but were unsuccessful since no insect would pollinate the vines.

The industry was saved by a 12 year old slave, Edmond Albius, who discovered the process for the manual fertilisation of this orchid. His technique is still used today, with all vanilla being cross-pollinated by hand. Vanilla from Reunion Island, or Bourbon Vanilla, is considered to be the best in the world.

Hiking

With no roads, the rugged, pristine and somewhat inaccessible, Cirque de Mafate, is a hiker’s paradise.

The Reunion National Park covers 42% of the island, and provides more than 900 km of marked trails for hikers, catering to everyone from beginners to experienced walkers. An added bonus? There are no entrance fees and anyone can camp anywhere around the island.

Reunion has three long-distance hiking trails, endorsed by the French Hiking Federation (Fédération française de randonnée pédestre):

GR R1 is 60 km in length and takes a route around Piton des Neiges and past the Salazie, Mafate and Cilaos craters.
GR R2 is the big daddy of them all, crossing the island from north to south, on a 130 km odyssey from the coast to the summits of Piton des Neiges (3,069 m) and Piton de la Fournaise (‎2,632 m) then back down to the coast.
GR R3 (38 km) crosses the Mafate crater, a site that is accessible only on foot.

A map illustrating the GR R1 and GR R2 hiking trails on Reunion.

Currency

Euro Currency

The official currency of Réunion is the Euro (€), with €1 currently (December 2020) worth US$1.23. To check the current exchange rate, please click here.

French banks maintain branches throughout the island with ATM’s available in most towns. Credit cards are widely accepted throughout Réunion.

The Réunion €0 souvenir bank note can be purchased from a vending machine at the airport.

If you’re a collector of currencies, you might be interest in purchasing a Réunion €0 souvenir bank note, which will set you back €3 (hardly a fair exchange rate!) and are dispensed from a vending machine which is installed near the departure gates at Roland Garros International airport.

Costs

Many treats on Réunion are surprisingly affordable, including waffles and ice-cream at Café Amorino.

Typical daily travel budgets:

Budget: €100 (USD$)
Mid-Range: €100-200 (USD$)
Top-End: €200+ (USD$)

Sample costs:

Bottle of Coca Cola (1.5 litre): €1.60 (US$)
Bottle of Water (330 ml): €0.50 (US$)
Bottle of Rivière du Mât rum (700 ml): €10.99 (US$)
Bottle of French wine (750 ml): €5.00+ (US$)
Cappuccino: €3 (US$)
Bus Ticket: €1.80 (US$)
Car hire (compact car per day): €29+ (US$)
Litre of fuel: €1.48 (US$)
Meal (inexpensive restaurant): €12 (US$)
Meal for 2 (mid-range restaurant): €50 (US$)
Big Mac Meal at McDonald’s: €12 (US$)
Room in a budget hotel: €18 (US$)
Room in a mid-range hotel: €80+ (US$)
Room in a top-end hotel: €150+ (US$)

Sights

I spent two busy weeks exploring Reunion which still wasn’t enough time to cover the myriad sights on the island. With 900 km of hiking trails, you could easily spend weeks on the island. A rental car will allow you to maximise your time and, thanks to the excellent infrastructure, travel times are short.

Saint Denis

One of many magnificent mansions which line the Rue de Paris in Saint Denis.

Like everything else on Reunion, the capital, Saint Denis, was a pleasant surprise – a city full of Creole-style mansions that reflect its colonial heritage.

A small, cosmopolitan city, St. Denis was founded in 1669 and became the capital of Réunion in 1738. The sights of the city can easily be explored on foot in a day, however different museums and galleries have varying opening times so its best to check in advance if something is on your wish list. I’ve included opening hours under each entry.

The main artery of St. Denis is the Avenue de la Victoire, which runs from the waterfront, inland to the Hôtel de Ville (Town hall), at which point it becomes the Rue de Paris, which continues onto Le Jardin de l’État (the State garden).

Most sights are conveniently placed along this central corridor and are listed below in order from the seafront to the garden. St. Denis has many finely preserved buildings, all of which are very photogenic. Many of the mansions which line the city’s streets were built by the owners of sugar and coffee plantations during the island’s colonial hey-day. Today, these mansions serve as galleries, museums and the local tourist information office.

Le Barachois

Canons line the waterfront at Le Barachois, a waterfront park, in downtown Saint Denis.

Located on the waterfront in downtown Saint Denis, Le Barachois, a green seafront esplanade is lined with colonial-era canons, and offers sweeping views of the Indian ocean. The park anchors the Avenue de la Victoire and, as such, is a good place to start a walking tour of St. Denis. From here, the avenue leads inland to the first of many sights, the Cathedral Of Saint Denis.

The clean waters of the Indian ocean provide an ideal fishing ground for two local boys, seen here at Le Barachois.

Cathedrale de Saint-Denis de La Reunion

Completed in 1832, the Cathedral of Saint Denis is dedicated to the patron saint of the city.

Located on Avenue de la Victoire, but partially hidden behind a façade of trees, the simple but beautiful Cathedrale de Saint-Denis de La Reunion is fronted by a small park which features an ornamental fountain at its core.

An image of the patron saint of the city, Saint Denis, on display inside the Cathedral of Saint Denis.

The interior of the cathedral is bathed in natural sunlight thanks to wide, arched, windows and features frescoes and an iconic painting of Saint Denis – the patron saint of the city.

In the evening, the cobbled streets surrounding the cathedral come alive with restaurants, bars, bistros and cafes serving the local party crowd.

The best coffee on the island (and amazing food) is to be found at the Coffee Shop de Bourbon which is located one block back from the cathedral at 31 Rue Alexis de Villeneuve (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more).

Monument I Guerre Mondiale

The Monument I Guerre Mondiale (WWI monument) lies in the heart of St. Denis.

Located on a small roundabout opposite the Hôtel de Ville (Town hall), the Monument I Guerre Mondiale is dedicated to those who lost their lives during WWI. This iconic monument serves as a marker for the centre of the old town and it’s at this point that Avenue de la Victoire changes name to become Rue de Paris as it continues its journey inland.

Inaugurated in 1923, the monument features a large granite column which is surmounted by an angel of white marble brandishing a laurel wreath. In 1941, a sealed urn, containing a parcel of “French Land”, was placed inside the monument.

Hôtel de Ville

The striking Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) in St. Denis.

Across the road from the WWI monument is the very photogenic and majestic Hôtel de Ville (Town hall) which displays all the attributes of typical French colonial architecture.

While the town hall is a busy, functioning institution, tours are conducted every Wednesday at 2 pm with tickets available from the tourist information office. If you’re not taking the tour, you’ll have to content yourself with photographing the building from outside.

Maison Carrère

Built in 1905 by Raphaël Carrère, a major sugar trader, Maison Carrère is now home to the local tourist office.

Located a short walk along from the Town hall at 14 Rue de Paris, the beautiful, Maison Carrère is named after Raphaël Carrère, a major sugar trader, who constructed the timber mansion in 1905 to house his wife and five daughters. The mansion today houses a free museum with period furnishings and the city’s Tourist Information office.

Opening Hours: The visitors centre is open everyday, except Sunday, from 8:30 am to 5: 30 pm.

Villa du Conseil Général

The opulent Villa du Conseil Général is one of the principal mansions on Rue de Paris in Saint Denis.

Continuing further along the street to 18 Rue de Paris, the impressive, lavender-coloured, Villa du Conseil Général, was built in the early 1790’s by Jean-Baptiste de Lestrac, the first mayor of Saint Denis.

The Heritage Museum at the Villa du Conseil Général exhibits artwork from local artists.

Today, the villa is the property of the Conseil Général (General Council) who use it to house a Heritage museum which features exhibitions by local artists.

Opening Hours: The museum is open everyday, except Saturday and Sunday, from 8:00 am to 4:00 pm.

L’Arthotèque

Housed in a former mansion, <i>L'Artothèque</i> displays local contemporary art.

Housed in a former mansion, L’Artothèque displays local contemporary art.

Further along the street, at 26 Rue de Paris, L’Arthotèque is a museum dedicated to local contemporary art. Housed in a fine mid-19th-century wooden Creole villa, this small museum boasts more than 1500 pieces of contemporary art in its collection.

Musée Léon Dierx

The impressive Musée Léon Dierx houses an exceptional collection of modern and contemporary art.

If you visit just one museum in St. Denis, it should be the Musée Léon Dierx which is located at 28 Rue de Paris. Home to an impressive and eclectic collection of art, the museum is strong on local content and features stunning old-world paintings which depict the magnificent landscapes of Reunion.

The beautiful galleries of the Musée Léon Dierx are lined with old-world paintings depicting the amazing landscapes of Reunion.

The museum, which is housed in the neoclassical style, Villa Manès, was opened in 1912 by the Reunion General Council. Its small collection of works are housed in beautifully arranged galleries and include works by Picasso, Gauguin and Cézanne.

Artwork at the Musée Léon Dierx pays homage to the great masters.

Opening Hours: The museum is open everyday, except Monday, from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Villa de la Région

The Villa de la Région houses a museum dedicated to the Decorative arts.

Continuing inland, and located at 49 Rue de Paris, the Villa de la Région houses a small museum dedicated to decorative arts. Housed in a Creole mansion, which dates from the 1840’s, the museum is owned by the Reunion Regional council and features exhibits on creole culture and decorative arts.

Opening Hours: The museum is open everyday, except Monday, from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm.

Jardin de l’Etat

A view of the Jardin de l’Etat from the Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle.

Rue de Paris terminates at the Jardin de l’Etat (State Garden), which provides a small green lung in the heart of the capital. The garden is dominated by the grand edifice of the Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle (Natural History Museum).

Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle

The Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle is the centrepiece of the Jardin de l’Etat in Saint Denis.

With old and faded display’s, the Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle is housed in a former colonial palace inside the Jardin de l’État. The museum features displays of the fauna and flora of the island and is a good place to gain an understanding of the natural history of Reunion.

Opening Hours: The museum is open everyday, except Sunday and Monday, from 09:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Grand Marché

Colourful, handwoven baskets are just some of the items to be found at the Grand Marché in Saint Denis.

One sight worth visiting, which is not to be found on Rue de Paris, is the colourful and bustling, Grand Marché (Grand market).

Located on Rue du Maréchal-Leclerc, behind the Tourist Information office, the market is a great place to buy local, handmade souvenirs and to taste local ‘carri‘ from the numerous market restaurants.

Coffee and chocolates, made from locally grown cacao, served at a cafe in Saint Denis.

Around the Island – West Coast

Attractions are listed in a counter-clockwise direction from St. Denis. As you travel around the island, attractions are clearly signposted with brown signs.

La Montagne

A panoramic view of St. Denis on the road to La Montagne.

Travelling from St. Denis to the west coast, you have the choice of taking the faster, coastal highway (RN1), via the Route du Littoral, or the slower, much more scenic, high road (D41) over the mountain via the town of La Montagne.

Leaving St. Denis, D41 climbs suddenly through a series of tight hair-pin turns, which offer sweeping views of the capital and the Indian ocean. The road continues along the top of the mountain, before descending, eventually re-joining the highway on the coast at La Possession.

Le Maïdo

A view of Le Maïdo, and the sheer drop into the Cirque de Mafate, from my Corail helicopter flight.

From the town of St. Paul, a brown sign on the highway indicates the turn for Le Maïdo, a spectacular lookout point situated at an elevation of 2,200 m (7,200 ft), which is easily accessible by car.

Located at the top of a sheer cliff, Maïdo could best be described as a balcony which provides unparalleled views over the Cirque de Mafate and the west coast of Reunion island. Various hiking trails allow access to points along the ridge, over which there is a sheer drop to the bottom of the Cirque de Mafate.

My helicopter flight provided a view of the incredibly deep walls which line <i>Cirque de Mafate</i>.

My helicopter flight provided a view of the incredibly deep walls which line Cirque de Mafate.

The windy road which climbs from Saint Paul to the summit passes through a forest of highland Tamarin which is a popular area for family picnics. On most days, inclement weather closes in around 11 am, shrouding the entire cirque and volcanic slope in a thick fog, which delivers lots of rain showers.

If you wish to see anything, you need to be on the summit early in the morning.

If you’re driving up from the sweltering hot coast, it will seem ridiculous to be carrying a sweater, but you might just need it at Maïdo where maximum daytime temperatures reach about 15 degrees (c). Once the fog and rain set in, the temperature plummets.

St. Gilles

The sunsets over the beach at St. Gilles are spectacular.

With its white-sand beaches and its protected position inside the lagoon, St. Gilles is the main beach resort area on Reunion and is all about fun in the sun.

Home to scores of accommodation & dining options, the area is the place to be if you wish to partake in aquatic activities such as scuba diving, paragliding, fishing-trips, snorkelling trips etc. There is a tourist office downtown which is manned by friendly and enthusiastic staff.

Musée de Villèle

The beautifully restored, Musée de Villèle, is a former estate home, built by a wealthy sugar baron.

Located a short drive up the hill from St. Gilles, in the town of Saint-Gilles-les-Hauts (St. Gilles Heights), the beautifully restored Musée de Villèle, is the former estate home of two illustrious, local sugar-growing clans, the Panon-Desbassyn and Villèle families.

The sumptuous interiors of the <i>Musée de Villèle</i> provide visitors with an insight into Patrician life on Réunion during the colonial era.

The sumptuous interiors of the Musée de Villèle provide visitors with an insight into Patrician life on Réunion during the colonial era.

One hour, compulsorily guided, tours (in French only), of the main house provide visitors with a sense of what life was like on the island in the late 18th and the 19th century. The interior of the main house is filled with period furniture and collections of historical documents and art.

Slave labour was widely used by wealthy landowners on Reunion, so it’s only fitting that an exhibition dealing with this ugly side of Reunion’s past is installed on the 2nd floor of the mansion.

Opening Hours: The museum is open everyday, except Monday, from 09:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Corail Helicopters

Our pilot from Corail helicopters, preparing us for our flight.

Also located above St. Gilles is the helipad for Corail Helicopters, one of several operators on Reunion who offer helicopter flights over the breathtaking volcanic landscapes of the island. A helicopter flight is the best way to get a true perspective of the island, its varied and magnificent landscape.

A panoramic view of the crater of the very active <i>Piton de la Fournaise</i> volcano, as seen from my Corail helicopter flight.

A panoramic view of the crater of the very active Piton de la Fournaise volcano, as seen from my Corail helicopter flight.

Corail helicopters offer a range of tours with the shortest flight, a 15 minute cruise over Cirque de Mafate, costing €95, while the longest flight, the 55-minute L’excellence will set you back €320.

I flew on the 45 minute Tour de l’Ile (€280) which provides breath-taking views of the three cirques (Cilaos, Mafate and Salazie) plus the Piton de la Fournaise.

A view of the west coast of Réunion from my Corail helicopter flight.

Flights only take place in the early morning, before the daily cloud cover shrouds everything of interest. Despite the hefty price tag, flights are popular and advance reservations are essential.

Musée du Sel

While the upper slopes of the volcano receives frequent rainfall, the nearby salt pans, which lie in a rain shadow, remain mostly dry.

If you follow the coastal road south of St. Leu, you’ll eventually reach Pointe au Sel (Salt Point), which is home to several salt pans and the informative Musée du Sel (Museum of Salt).

<i>Rain, rain, stay away</i> - any rainfall over the salt plans would ruin the production process which relies on evaporation.

Rain, rain, stay away – any rainfall over the salt plans would ruin the production process which relies on evaporation.

What’s interesting about the salt pans is that they rely on evaporation in order to separate the salt from the water. If they receive any precipitation, the whole process fails. On the day I visited, rain could clearly be seen, falling on the upper slopes of the volcano, however this rainfall never reaches the arid coastal plain.

Opening Hours: The museum is open everyday, except Saturday, from 09:00 am to 5:00 pm.

Stella Matutina Museum

Displays at the Stella Matutina Museum are laid-out over 5 floors inside the old sugar factory.

Located a short drive up the slopes of the volcano from the Salt museum, the impressive, Stella Matutina Museum, is housed inside an old sugar factory and tells the story of the sugar industry on Reunion.

Did you know? Reunion has the distinction of being the largest producer of sugar in the European Union.

Opening Hours: The museum is open everyday from 09:30 am to 5:30 pm, except Monday when its open from 1 pm – 5:30 pm. Tickets cost €9.

Saint-Louis

An exterior view of the <i>Eglise de St Louis</i> which dominates the main square of the town of St. Louis.

An exterior view of the Eglise de St Louis which dominates the main square of the town of St. Louis.

Further south, the unremarkable town of St. Louis offers limited attractions, but does have an interesting church at its heart.

Strangely relaxing, the interior of the <i>Eglise de St Louis</i> is bathed in a soft, blue light.

Strangely relaxing, the interior of the Eglise de St Louis is bathed in a soft, blue light.

The interior of the Eglise de St Louis is always bathed in a beautifully relaxing, almost eerie, blue light thanks to blue plastic panels placed over its windows.

Saint-Pierre

The flag of the <i>Terres Australes et Antarctiques Françaises (TAAF)</i> at the TAAF Information centre in St. Pierre.

The flag of the Terres Australes et Antarctiques Françaises (TAAF) at the TAAF Information centre in St. Pierre.

St. Pierre is the second city of Reunion but, more importantly for geography buffs and competitive travellers, it is the de-facto capital for the French Southern and Antarctic Lands, known in French as the Terres Australes et Antarctiques Françaises (TAAF).

St. Pierre is home to the TAAF information centre which includes displays on these remote territories.

A monument at the TAAF information centre in St. Pierre shows the location of the Antarctic territories on a globe.

The territory includes the sub-Antarctic, Amsterdam Island, Saint-Paul Island, Crozet Islands, and the Kerguelen Islands which are located far from Reunion in the southern Indian Ocean. The territory also includes Adélie Land, the sector of Antarctica claimed by France.

A map at the TAAF Information centre in St. Pierre shows the location of the French Antarctic Territories.

A French supply ship, the Marion Dufresne, sails to the islands from Reunion on a semi-regular basis and can accommodate 14 paying passengers.

A photo of the <i>Marion Dufresne</i> supply ship at the TAAF information centre in St. Pierre.

A photo of the Marion Dufresne supply ship at the TAAF information centre in St. Pierre.

The one-month trip covers a distance of 9,000 km, visits all of the islands and includes sightseeing trips with transfers made by helicopter from the ship. If you are interested in applying, you should make enquiries at the following website.

The TAAF information centre is housed inside an old riverside warehouse in St. Pierre.

Located at 1 Rue Gabriel Dejean, the TAAF information centre, which is housed inside a former river-front warehouse, includes displays and photographic exhibitions relating to the islands and also sells ‘TAAF’ postage stamps.

A marker inside the TAAF Information centre indicates distances to the various French Antarctic islands from St. Pierre.

Opening Hours: The TAAF Information Centre is open weekdays from 08:30 am to 12 pm then from 2 pm to 5 pm.

Cascade de Grand Galet

The stunning Cascades de Grand Galet lie a short drive inland from St. Joseph.

There are many amazing waterfalls on Reunion, often reached after many hours of hiking. One stunningly beautiful cascade which can be reached by road is the Cascades de Grand Galet.

From the town of St. Joseph, route D33 winds its way inland for 30 minutes, eventually reaching a car park next to the falls.

Around the Island – South Coast

One of many huge lava fields which flow down to the south coast of Reunion from the Piton de la Fournaise, which is shrouded by cloud cover.

Beyond the west coast town of St. Philippe, the population thins and things quieten down as the road curves to the left, entering the rugged and desolate south coast. The entire south coast lies in the shadow of the volatile and unpredictable Piton de la Fournaise and is characterised by huge lava fields.

Exploring the south coast lava fields in my rental car.

Around the Island – East Coast

Piton Sainte-Rose

After passing through the sparsely populated south coast, the town of Piton Sainte-Rose marks the start of the East coast.

Église Notre Dame des Laves

The miraculous Église Notre Dame des Laves in Piton Sainte-Rose.

A church in a lava field?

Welcome to the truly miraculous Église Notre Dame des Laves (Our Lady of the Lava church). On an island which never fails to surprise, this is one truly surprising attraction – something totally unexpected and almost unbelievable.

In 1977, an eruption from the nearby, and very restless volcano, Piton del la Fournaise, sent an estimated 100 million cubic metres of molten hot (5,000 degrees Celsius) lava gushing towards the sea at speeds of 80 km/h over a period of several days.

In the path of this tremendous onslaught stood the small east coast village of Piton Sainte-Rose. The lava flow made a direct hit on the village, destroying everything in its path except the local police station (now a museum dedicated to telling the story of the eruption) and the church.

A side view of the <i>Église Notre Dame des Laves</i> better illustrates its position in the lava field.

A side view of the Église Notre Dame des Laves better illustrates its position in the lava field.

The flow, apparently, split when it came to the church and re-formed again on the other side. Many people see the church’s escape as a miracle of divine intervention. Some lava did enter the church and anything flammable was incinerated.

After the eruption, locals returned to rebuild their village and the church. The lava flow had increased the ground level around the church so today new steps allow churchgoers to cross the lava to and from the church.

La Coulée Volcanique de 1977

La Coulée Volcanique de 1977 is a permanent exhibition which shows dramatic footage from the eruption which destroyed Piton Saint-Rose.

Directly opposite the church the former police station, which was the only other building to survive the eruption, is today home to an exhibition, La Coulée Volcanique de 1977.

This permanent exhibition, which can be visited in 20 minutes, offers explanations of the historic volcanic flow of 1977. Dramatic video footage, photos and newspaper articles from the time, describe the events of the eruption in vivid detail.

Rivière de l’Est Suspension Bridge

The incredible <i>Rivière de l'Est</i> suspension bridge is now permanently closed to pedestrian traffic.

The incredible Rivière de l’Est suspension bridge is now permanently closed to pedestrian traffic.

As you exit the town of Sainte-Rose, heading north, you’ll pass the magnificent and impressive suspension bridge which spans the Rivière de l’Est river. Built at the end of the 19th century, and no longer in use or accessible, the 152 metre-long bridge was once a key part of the island’s infrastructure.

Sainte-Anne

The ornate Église Sainte Anne dominates the town of St. Anne, and is a popular wedding venue.

Located in the town of St. Anne, the wonderfully ornate, Église Sainte Anne (Church of St. Anne), is adorned with countless floral patterns, gargoyles and cherubs which has ensured its place on the register of Historic Monuments.

My visit coincided with a wedding, in which the groom’s party arrived in two, large, semi-trailer trucks with their very loud air-horns blasting away. A whole lot of fun!

Bras Panon

A worker at the Coopérative Pro Vanille, in Bras Panon, sorting vanilla pods into different lengths.

Heading further north from St. Anne, the town of Bras Panon is home to the Coopérative Pro Vanille. The co-op includes 120 Vanilla producers from the east coast of Reunion with processing, sorting, packaging and shipment of the pods handled at the headquarters in Bras Panon.

Vanilla pods from the <i>Coopérative Pro Vanille</i> are sold according to length.

Vanilla pods from the Coopérative Pro Vanille are sold according to length.

Hourly tours (only in French) are conducted throughout the day, allowing visitors to gain an understanding of the various stages of vanilla production. For more on this important export item, please refer to the Fauna and Flora section.

Around the Island – Piton de la Fournaise

La Plaine des Cafres

The only sight in the small town of La Plaine des Cafres, Cité du Volcan includes displays and information on the nearby Piton de la Fournaise.

While its tempting to race up the hill to visit the spectacular, #1 attraction on Reunion – the Piton de la Fournaise, it’s worth pausing first to view the displays at the Cité du Volcan (Volcano House museum) in La Plaine des Cafres.

The museum provides a wealth of detail on the volcano, giving visitors an important insight into this amazing wonder of nature and one of the world’s most active volcanoes.

Opening Hours: The museum is open everyday from 09:00 am to 5 pm, except Monday when it’s open from 1 pm to 5 pm.

Piton de la Fournaise

A hiking trail along the edge of the giant <i>enclosure</i> provides stunning views of different volcanic features, such as the <i>Formica Leo</i> crater.

A hiking trail along the edge of the giant enclosure provides stunning views of different volcanic features, such as the Formica Leo crater.

As mentioned – this is the #1 attraction on the island and worth a full day of anyone’s time!

Lava flows on the slopes of the Piton de la Fournaise.

The Piton de la Fournaise (English: Peak of the Furnace) is a shield volcano, which is similar in structure to those found on Hawaii. The volcano is easily accessible along road RF5 which runs from the Cité du Volcan (Volcano House) museum to the edge of the crater, a journey of about an hour.

A beautiful view to the summit of the Piton de la Fournaise from the hiking trail.

Located at 2,632 metres, it’s estimated that the volcano is around 500,000 years old and is currently one of the most active volcanoes in the world. Prior to my visit, an eruption had resulted in all hiking trails inside the giant enclosure being closed.

The giant <i>enclosure</i> of Piton de la Fournaise provides hours of hiking possibilities with stunning views in all directions.

The giant enclosure of Piton de la Fournaise provides hours of hiking possibilities with stunning views in all directions.

The journey to the volcano takes in many spectacular sights, making the trip a full day out. Ever wondered what it must be like to walk on the moon, or Mars? The lunar landscape on the Plaine des Sables (Plain of Sands) should allow you to satisfy your curiosity.

Looking more like Mars than Earth, the breath-taking <i>Plaine de Sables</i> is just one part of the huge volcanic complex that is the Piton de la Fournaise.

Looking more like Mars than Earth, the breath-taking Plaine de Sables is just one part of the huge volcanic complex that is the Piton de la Fournaise.

This giant plain of bronze and reddish-brown volcanic soil is lined on both sides by the vertical walls of an ancient river. A truly impressive sight! Hiking trails follow the top of the ridge, providing incredible views at every turn.

The road to the Piton de la Fournaise descends onto the <i>Plaine de Sables</i>.

The road to the Piton de la Fournaise descends onto the Plaine de Sables.

Before the road descends onto the plain, a viewpoint at Le Pas des Sables offers the most impressive panoramic views of the plain.

A full day exploring the magnificent sights of the Piton de la Fournaise is a must while visiting Reunion!

Another jaw-dropping view on the way to the Piton de la Fournaise is offered at <i>Point de Vue Après Nez de Boeuf</i>.

Another jaw-dropping view on the way to the Piton de la Fournaise is offered at Point de Vue Après Nez de Boeuf.

The Three Cirques

As seen from my helicopter flight, one of the three volcanic Cirques which form the interior of Réunion.

Finally – the Cirques! Do you see just how much there is to do on this one volcanic rock? This report is way too long and I need to stop writing, so I will keep this section brief.

I could easily return to Reunion to spend two weeks exploring the three Cirques and I’m sure many visitors to the island, those who love hiking at least, never make it down to the coast.

The Cirques are sights within their own right and could easily justify their own report!

Cilaos, Salazie and Mafate, the three cirques, are home to inhabited villages in the centre of the island. Large holes in the ground, they were formed long ago when the now dormant volcano, Piton des Neiges, exploded.

The first two, Cilaos in the Southwest and Salazie in the east are accessible by car through very windy roads (the road to Cilaos contains 400 bends), while Mafate is only accessible by foot. A road could be built to provide access – but – Mafate is governed by strict rules, one of which is that a road can never be built inside the cirque.

The cirques are full of hiking trails with lots of accommodation options and restaurants in the two main centres of Cilaos (for Cirque de Cilaos) and Hell-bourg (for Cirque de Salazie).

Cirque de Cilaos

Dramatic landscapes in the Cirque de Cilaos. Do you see the people canyoning?

Now do you see them? If you are looking for adrenaline activities, Cilaos is the place for you.

The main centre in the Cirque de Cilaos is – Cilaos. The town is famous for its spa, which is now old and dated but worth a visit for an hour (strictly timed!) of wellness.

Street art in the town of Cilaos.

The town sits on a ridge in the middle of the Cirque de Cilaos, a dramatic, forested, rugged caldera which you could easily spend a week exploring. Steep hiking trails from Cilaos lead to neighbouring Salazie and Mafate.

The town of Cilaos is dominated by its church, the <i>Eglise de Cilaos</i>.

The town of Cilaos is dominated by its church, the Eglise de Cilaos.

Dominated by its church, Cilaos is full of shops, restaurants and accommodation, making it a popular place for visitors. Buses offer connections to hiking trail heads, making it an ideal base for ramblers.

The interior of the Eglise de Cilaos.

Embroidery Museum

You have to admire a town which takes its embroidery seriously.

OK! Not something I would normally cover but – Cilaos is known for its unique style of embroidery. You can gain an understanding of this time-honoured craft at the Maison de la Broderie (Embroidery museum) where different ladies demonstrate their skills. I still couldn’t figure out how they did it!

Opening Hours: Located in the heart of Cilaos, the museum is open everyday from 09:30 am to 12 pm, then 2 pm to 5 pm, except Sunday when it closes in the afternoon.

An example of Cilaos embroidery, on display at the <i>Maison de la Broderie.</i>

An example of Cilaos embroidery, on display at the Maison de la Broderie.

Cirque de Salazie

One of the many spectacular views of the Cirque de Salazie from my flight with Corail helicopters.

Of all the cirques, Salazie is the easiest to access, via a wide, fast, well-maintained road from the east coast town of Saint-André.

Hiking in the stunningly beautiful <i>Cirque de Salazie</i>.

Hiking in the stunningly beautiful Cirque de Salazie.

Hell-Bourg

The main street of Hell-bourg is lined with traditional Creole houses.

The main centre in Salazie for accommodation and dining options is the town of Hell-bourg, a picturesque village which features many fine examples of creole timber houses.

Just some of the 1,500 instruments to be found at the <i>Maison Morange</i> in Hell-bourg.

Just some of the 1,500 instruments to be found at the Maison Morange in Hell-bourg.

One of the highlights of Hell-bourg is the excellent museum of musical instruments which is housed in the Maison Morange. Inaugurated in 2015, the museum focuses on instruments from India, Africa and the wider Indian Ocean region.

Just one of the many displays of musical instruments at the Maison Morange in Hell-bourg.

Housed in a traditional Creole house which was built by the former mayor of Bras Panon, Henri Morange, the museum features more than 1,500 instruments. A truly surprising find in this little hilltop town.

Opening Hours: The museum is open everyday from 10:00 am to 6 pm, except Monday.

There are many more Nephila spiders in Hell-bourg than people. I kid you not!

For those who suffer from arachnophobia, you will be pleased to know that Hell-bourg is full of incredibly large Nephila spiders who have strung their webs up everywhere and seem to outnumber the human population exponentially.

See! They are everywhere.

Cirque de Mafate

While there are no roads inside the Cirque de Mafate, a back road from the Cirque de Salazie does allow partial entry by car.

Cirque de Mafate is unique – a Utopian dream for many, a land of no roads and very limited connections to the outside world.

There is no main electrical supply so inhabitants must produce their own electricity using solar panels, and occasionally diesel generators. However, fuel for the generators must be brought by helicopter at high cost. All other heavy materials must also be air-lifted in by helicopter.

A view of the settlement of <i>La Nouvelle</i>, the largest in the Cirque de Mafate, as seen from the <i>Col des Bœufs</i> pass.

A view of the settlement of La Nouvelle, the largest in the Cirque de Mafate, as seen from the Col des Bœufs pass.

The cirque has one small settlement, La Nouvelle, which offers limited accommodation to overnight hikers. A primary school caters for just 6 pupils. There are no secondary schools.

A local supermarket provides grocery delivery for the residents of La Nouvelle with perishable items being stored in refrigerated containers until they are collected.

The Cirque is entirely public property, managed by the Forestry service from which the inhabitants rent inexpensive concessions. Everything, including groceries from the local supermarket, must be walked into the cirque, while heavier construction items are helicoptered in.

The end of the road to Cirque de Mafate, the car park at the Col des Bœufs pass.

Easy access to Cirque de Mafate is available from the car park at the Col des Bœufs (Pass of the Oxen), which can be reached by car from Cirque de Salazie.

All construction materials destined for Cirque de Mafate must be air-lifted by helicopter.

Accommodation

When it comes to accommodation options on Reunion, visitors are spoilt for choice with Booking.com listing over 1,100 properties! From 5-star beach resorts, guest houses, B&B’s, mountain lodges, city apartments and more, excellent options are available island-wide.

If you’re on the island for a few days, it makes sense to base yourself in one place and explore from there. If you wish to soak up the ambience of the capital, St. Denis offers a few options.

If you’re more focused on the beach, the area around St. Gilles offers many accommodation, restaurants, bars, cafe, Scuba diving and fishing options.

If hiking is your thing, Cilaos or Hell-bourg offer accommodation options which place you close to hiking trail heads.

If you have the luxury of time, as I did, you can move more slowly, spending time in all of these accommodation centres which will allow you to fully explore this fascinating island.

St. Gilles

The comfortable and homely Hôtel Le Kervéguen in St. Gilles.

My first base on Reunion was the main tourist town of St. Gilles, which is located on the west coast and is the epi-centre for the island’s beach scene.

While in St. Gilles, I stayed at the comfortable Hôtel Le Kervéguen, which is located on a hill overlooking town. With room rates starting at US$84 per night, the hotel features dated, but clean and comfortable accommodation, a tight car park (they’re all very tight on Reunion) and a small swimming pool, next to which a buffet breakfast is served each morning for an additional €10. If staying here, you’ll need a car!

Cirque de Cilaos

My stylish room at the very contemporary <i>La Villa Kazuera</i> in Cilaos.

My stylish room at the very contemporary La Villa Kazuera in Cilaos.

The road in and out of the Cirque de Cilaos is narrow, windy, very steep and full of hair pin turns. Driving time from St. Louis to Cilaos is at least one hour and, rather than rush in and out on a day trip, it’s best to stay for a couple of days, allowing time to relax and appreciate this special environment.

The Cirque has its own micro-climate with torrential downpours occurring like clockwork most afternoons, which only allows the morning for hiking and other activities.

The main town of Cilaos features lots of accommodation options, including the very new La Villa Kazuera. Located on a quiet lane-way, close to the centre of town, the villa offers beautifully styled rooms (from US$62), a communal kitchen, a relaxed garden space, a Jacuzzi (which is a great way to relax during the afternoon downpour) and ample parking.

Cirque de Salazie

Grand Ilet

My room at the newly built Ô Cœur de l’île guest house in the quiet village of Grand Ilet in the Cirque de Salazie.

In the Cirque de Salazie, I spent my first night in the very remote hamlet of Grand Ilet at the brand new and very stylish Ô cœur de l’île, a guest house located on a hill overlooking town.

Owned by a French couple (who speak no English), every space in the guest house has been thoughtfully created and is finished to a high specification. A very nice place to spend a night.

Located at 1,100 m, Grand Ilet is a tiny and remote mountaintop village which sits at the base of the ridge separating the Cirque de Salazie and the Cirque de Mafate.

On the night I stayed in town, the whole place was in darkness, and shrouded in fog, with nowhere open to get dinner. Luckily I had a packet of chips in the car which served as my sustenance. The following morning a continental breakfast was served for which there was an additional charge, which I happily paid.

The guest house is a short drive from the stunning Col des Bœufs, which provides sweeping views of the Cirque de Salazie and easy access to the Cirque de Mafate.

Tip: If you do stay here, the address provided by the property should not be entered into Google Maps, unless you wish to tour all the minor back-roads of the Cirque. Instead, you should simply enter ‘Grand Ilet‘ into Google Maps and let Google direct you to the village. Once there, ask a local for the guest house (it’s located on the hill directly above the village). Feedback from other guests on booking.com suggest this is a reoccurring issue.

Hell-bourg

My room at Le Relais Des Gouverneurs in Hell-Bourg, the main centre in the Cirque de Salazie.

The main accommodation centre in the Cirque de Salazie is Hell-bourg, where I stayed in Le Relais Des Gouverneurs which is located downtown. While the room was comfortable this was not my favourite place to stay!

The guest house is owned by a family who operate it on a schedule which suits them and not their guests. Breakfast finishes at 8:30 am, reception closes soon after and only reopens in the afternoon – all of which, according to the son and manager, is designed to create minimal disruption and inconvenience to the family.

If I ever return to Hell-bourg, I would stay at the much more agreeable, Le Relais des Cimes, where the staff are welcoming, reception is always open, service is wonderful and the restaurant is one of the best in town.

Saint Denis

During a return trip to Reunion from Mayotte, I had two days to soak up the ambience of the capital, St. Denis. Strangely, accommodation options in the capital are limited, with most hotels on the island lining the beaches on the west coast.

Eating Out

Being a French territory, you can be sure of one thing on Reunion – cuisine is taken very seriously!

There’s no shortage of fine restaurants, with amazing dining options available in even the smallest of towns. This is thanks, in no small part, to the army of French ex-pats who, having been trained in the finest culinary schools in France, have relocated to the island to enjoy life in the tropical sun. These ex-pats have opened the most delectable Pâtisseries, Boulangeries, Cafés, Bistros and Restaurants.

The traditional cuisine of Reunion is ‘carri‘ (yes – that’s ‘curry’ in Creole!), a truly local dish with ingredients simmered to perfection using Indian spices and local ingredients. If you like curry, you’ll love carri!

Restaurants

Le D.C.P.

The Tuna steaks served at Le D.C.P. (Le Dispositifs de Concentration de Poisson) in St. Giles are heavenly.

Of the many amazing restaurants on the island, one of my favourite places to sample local seafood is Le D.C.P. , which of course is an acronym for – Le Dispositifs de Concentration de Poisson. The restaurant is located in a quiet side-street in downtown St. Gilles, which is the only quiet aspect of this popular establishment.

The restaurant is voted on TripAdvisor as #1 of 109 restaurants in St. Gilles and it’s easy to understand why. Every evening, this busy establishment is under the command of its wonderfully unpretentious, friendly and enthusiastic patron, J-C (aka Fisher Man), who ensures the meals keep coming and the guests are happy.

It’s all about the fish at Le D.C.P. and more than once I returned to enjoy their amazing rare-cooked, teriyaki-flavoured, sesame-encrusted, tuna steak, which is served with a side of your choice. I still dream of that meal!

One evening I dined alongside a table of local fisherman who supply the restaurant with its daily catch. It was good to see that they too were enjoying the fruits of their labour. Everything at Le D.C.P. is spot on – a faultless production!

L’Atelier des Saveurs

Occupying a prime position on the main street of Cilaos, the stylish L’Atelier des Saveurs provided me with one of my most memorable meals on Reunion.

This fine dining establishment is owned and operated by a very talented local couple, Gregory (the Chef) and Pauline (Sommerlier/ Server) who met each other while working in Perth, Australia.

The restaurant is voted on TripAdvisor as #1 of 22 in Cilaos and after dining here, I can attest that its prime position is wholly justified. The couple speak English and are very passionate about their food and wines, all of which are divine and sublime! As for any lingering Australian influences – while I was dining, Angus and Julia Stone were playing softly on the music system. Nice!

Dessert

Café gourmand, a selection of desserts, is a popular dessert choice on Réunion.

After a meal, the French love nothing more than finishing with something a little sweet. A popular item, which can be found on many restaurant menus, is Café gourmand which is essentially a sampling plate consisting of an espresso and a selection of miniature desserts (also known as petits fours). This is ideal for those who cannot decide what to order or who wish to try a little of everything!

Cafés

Coffee Shop de Bourbon

The Coffee Shop de Bourbon is the only place on Reunion serving real Barista-made coffee.

Coffee is available everywhere on Reunion, but the island doesn’t have a real cafe culture. Instead, most places prepare espresso coffee using pods. Many cafes do not stock milk so often, a black coffee is all that’s available.

There is one place which stands out as a beacon of hope for those in need of a serious caffeine fix – Coffee Shop de Bourbon in downtown St. Denis. You will not find a single pod here, only qualified Barista’s who understand the different between a flat white, café latte, cappuccino etc.

The owner of the <i>Coffee Shop de Bourbon</i>, Charles Petit, was inspired by the cafe culture of Australia.

The owner of the Coffee Shop de Bourbon, Charles Petit, was inspired by the cafe culture of Australia.

Like the owners of L’Atelier des Saveurs, the enthusiastic owner of Coffee Shop de Bourbon, Charles Petit, spent many years living and working in Perth, Australia. While in Perth, Charles was inspired by the Australian café culture (we are fanatical about our cafés!) and, upon returning to his native Reunion, realised the island desperately needed something similar. Today, Coffee Shop de Bourbon is the only proper café on the island.

The Coffee Shop de Bourbon has just celebrated its 3rd birthday and Charles is not sitting still. He’s currently busy setting up a larger café on the waterfront in St. Denis and has plans to export his locally grown and roasted coffee beans. Apart from excellent coffee, the café menu is loaded with lots of tasty options from fresh salads, quiches, sandwiches and more.

La Case à Pains

A freshly made raspberry mille-feuille with an espresso macchiato at La Case à Pains in St. André. Parfait!

There are many fine boulangeries on Reunion and I tried my best to sample them all! One, which is a standout, is the magnificent La Case à Pains (House of Breads) which offers not just amazing bread but the most divine pastries.

With two branches located on either side of the island (St. Gilles on the west coast and St. André on the east coast), you are never far from a heavenly mille-feuille, Pain au chocolat or many other sublime calorie bombs.

Café De La Gare

The former railway station in Saint-Pierre has been converted into the pleasant Café De La Gare, however the (pod) coffee is passable!

The second city of Reunion, Saint-Pierre, offers surprisingly few cafe options, however the former railway station, which is located on the waterfront, has been converted into a pleasant cafe – the Café De La Gare. The pod coffee is passable but the food much more appealing.

Bars

An advertisement for the popular Dodo beer.

A French territory with ample sugar cane! That could only mean one thing – lots of local rum, which you can find in all bars and supermarkets and is inexpensive. One of the most popular local brands is Rivière du Mât whose distillery is located on the east coast and is open to visitors.

While the rum is very quaffable, a glass of the popular local beer, which is produced by the Brasseries de Bourbon, is a great way to unwind while watching the sunset from one of the waterfront bars in St. Gilles.

Of the many bars, my preferred watering hole was, La Palmeraie which offers front-row, sunset viewing, seats. Le Palmeraie has the full range of Bourbon beers on tap, including:

Bourbon Rousse – an amber/ red ale beer.
Bourbon Radler – a lager mixed with lemon juice.
Bourbon Blanche – like a Belgium style wheat beer with citrus tones.
Bourbon Héritage Blanche – like a Belgium wheat beer.
Bourbon ‘Dodo’ – the most popular lager on the island.

Enjoying a glass of the Bourbon Blanche at La Palmeraie in St. Gilles.

The best place for sunset drinks on Réunion is on the waterfront in St. Giles, where several bars lay out their tables directly on the foreshore from where you can watch the sun set into the Indian Ocean.

Visa Requirements

Passport stamp from Réunion.

Réunion is a French overseas territory, but it is not part of the Schengen Zone and, as such, applies its own visa policy. While French and European passport holders can reside for an unlimited period, many other nationalities can remain for 3 to 6 months.

Getting There

Air

Roland Garros International Airport is the main international gateway to Réunion.

There are two international airports on Reunion:

The main gateway, Roland Garros International Airport (IATA: RUN), is located in the north coast town of Sainte-Marie, 7 km east of Saint-Denis.
The secondary, Pierrefonds Airport (IATA: ZSE), is located 5.5 km northwest of Saint Pierre and offers limited services between Reunion and Mauritius.

Roland Garros Airport

The very dated Roland Garros airport is currently under-going a major renovation which is due to be completed by 2022. Most flights to/ from Reunion connect the territory to Metropolitan France. If you remove the French carriers, who provide a frequent shuttle service to the motherland, from the list of carriers serving Roland Garros airport, you’d be left with just three carriers providing services to a limited selection of destinations:

Air Austral – The national carrier flies to a variety of destinations.
Air Madagascar – flies to Madagascar only.
Air Mauritius – flies to Mauritius only.

Air Austral

Roland Garros serves as the base for the local carrier, Air Austral. If you’re island hopping around the Indian Ocean, Air Austral provide the most comprehensive, inter-island network, connecting Reunion to Mauritius, Seychelles, Mayotte, Madagascar and the Comoros.

While their aircraft are modern and the crews are professional, flights are horrendously expensive (as is to be expected by a carrier operating in a monopoly environment) and not always reliable.

I flew on four flights with the airline, the first of which was cancelled and the second of which was rescheduled – twice! The airline redeemed themselves on the last two flights, which operated normally. If you’re planning an itinerary with Air Austral, it’s best to build in buffer days in case of cancellations or delays.

Scheduled Services

The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from Roland Garros International Airport:

Air Austral – flies to/from Antananarivo, Bangkok–Suvarnabhumi, Chennai, Dzaoudzi, Johannesburg–O. R. Tambo, Mahé, Marseille, Mauritius, Moroni, Nosy Be, Paris–Charles de Gaulle
Air France – flies to/from Paris–Orly
Air Madagascar – flies to/from Antananarivo, Antsiranana, Guangzhou, Sainte-Marie, Tôlanaro
Air Mauritius – flies to/from Mauritius
Corsair International – flies to/from Paris–Orly
French Bee – flies to/from Paris–Orly

A giant terracotta mural adorns the departure hall at Roland Garros International Airport.

Airport Transport

The ‘T’ line bus provides thirteen round trips daily (from 7:00 am to 7:45 pm), connecting the airport with St Denis, a journey of 15 mins which costs €4.

Taxis between Roland Garros International Airport and Saint-Denis cost around €25 during the day and €30 at night. Drivers charge additional fees for luggage and, generally, I would recommend avoid using taxis while on Reunion (refer to the ‘Getting Around‘ section for more nightmare taxi stories).

Pierrefonds Airport

Pierrefonds Airport offers limited services between Reunion and Mauritius.

The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from Pierrefonds Airport

Air Austral – flies to/from Mauritius
Air Mauritius – flies to/from Mauritius

Sea

Saint Denis 97400, Réunion

Forty-three cruise ships call at Réunion each year from October to April. Ships dock at the main port – Le Port – which is located on the northwest coast of the island, 21 km’s west of St. Denis.

To check the current schedule, click here.

Getting Around

Road

The RN1 passes over the spectacular <i>Route des Tamarins</i> bridge on the west coast of Reunion.

The RN1 passes over the spectacular Route des Tamarins bridge on the west coast of Reunion.

I was pleasantly surprised by the high standard of infrastructure on Reunion. The French government have spared no expense on building impressive highways, cycle-ways, footpaths, bridges, ports and much more. The most impressive project of all is currently under construction (see the following section).

With its deep ravines, the terrain of the island presents engineers with many challenges. The French are champion bridge builders and have created some impressive bridges and viaducts to keep the island moving.

A fast, multi-lane, motorway (indicated in blue) almost circumnavigates the island, providing quick travel times to most places.

From the inland town of Le Tampon, the multi-lane, RN3 descends rapidly down the steep, volcanic slope to the coastal city of St. Pierre, where it becomes the RN1, travelling north, along the west coast, to the capital, Saint Denis.

From Saint Denis, the RN2 whisks you along the east coast as far south as Saint-Benoît. Beware the speed cameras – they really do work!

The only part of the island that’s not covered by the fast motorway is the rugged interior ‘cirques’ and the sparsely populated south coast, which lies in the shadow of the (active) Piton de la Fournaise volcano and is prone to inundation by lava flows whenever an eruption occurs.

As seen from a helicopter, the narrow, windy road (bottom left corner) which passes beneath the vertical walls of the Cirque de Cilaos, providing access to the tiny hamlet of Îlet à Cordes.

Away from the motorway, most roads are in excellent condition, although in the impossibly steep cirques, they can be narrow, windy and at times scary!

A one-lane tunnel on the (two-way) road to Cilaos.

Nouvelle Route du Littoral

An artist impression of the Nouvelle Route du Littoral.
Source: www.bouygues-construction.com

One of the largest and most impressive engineering projects currently underway anywhere in the world must be the Nouvelle Route du Littoral, which is France’s longest offshore viaduct and, at a cost of €1.7 billion, the most expensive road project/ km ever funded by France.

The existing ‘Route du Littoral’ is located at the bottom of steep volcanic cliffs, making it prone to rock-slides, which has resulted in fatalities in the past. Once completed in 2020, the new Route du Littoral will keep travellers well out of harm’s way.

One of the most complex aspects of the work is the construction of a 5.4 km viaduct which rises out from the Indian Ocean on columns. This is being built so that it will be able to withstand 144 km/h hurricane winds as well as waves of up to 10 m in height.

Public Buses

The national bus company, <i>Car Jaune</i>, provides access to all parts of the island.

The national bus company, Car Jaune, provides access to all parts of the island.

Various bus companies on Reunion provide modern, clean, public buses, with national services being offered by the state-owned operator, Car Jaune.

Other regional companies include:

Citalis – covering the northeast coast from Saint-Denis to Sainte-Marie and Sainte-Suzanne.
Karouest – covering the west coast from La Possession south to Saint-Leu.
Alterneo – covering the southwest coast, including Saint-Pierre, Saint-Louis, Cilaos and Etang-Salé.
Cirest – covering the east coast, including Saint-André, Salazie, Sainte-Rose and Bras-Panon.
Carsud – covering the southwest coast around Saint-Philippe, Saint-Joseph and Le Tampon.

All the websites listed above provide a wealth of information for the travelling public – but only in French! The Car Jaune website includes current Tariffs and a handy Route map.

Between them, the companies connect all towns and villages, no matter how remote, to regional transportation hubs. It was amazing to see wide-bodied buses negotiating tight, hair-pin turns on remote mountain passes and to find a lonely bus stop in the middle of a desolate lava field.

The bus stop at <i>Vierge Parasol</i>, which is located in the middle of an isolated, south coast lava field.

The bus stop at Vierge Parasol, which is located in the middle of an isolated, south coast lava field.

While the network is comprehensive, and certainly looks good on paper, the reality on the ground is a little different with buses providing services during daylight hours only (from 6 am to 7 pm) from Monday to Saturday. While services around the capital are more frequent, the timetable elsewhere is less user-friendly, with services running infrequently.

If your time is limited, and you wish to explore off the beaten track (where many of the highlights are to be found), then you should hire a rental car rather than face frustrating delays waiting on buses that run very occasionally.

A one-way bus ticket on Citalis costs €2 and is valid for 90 minutes.

Taxi

Calling a taxi while on Réunion is one thing you should avoid at all costs!

Taxi’s are few and far between and, like taxis operating in other French territories such as French Polynesia and New Caledonia, the drivers work hours to suit themselves rather than their customers. Outside of business hours, it’s best to book a taxi in advance by calling one of the companies. Taxis do not cruise the streets of Saint-Denis looking for customers, but can be found, during business hours, on taxi ranks.

Uber, or any other ride sharing app, is banned from operating on the island and the drivers I spoke to told me they would fight the introduction of any such competition. There are few taxis on Reunion and those that do exist operate like a cartel in a monopoly environment, charging all sorts of fees.

During one ten-minute taxi ride from the airport to a nearby guest house, the driver complained to me about the high cost of living on Reunion and then, upon completion of the journey, charged me €25! This included the meter fee of €19 then a fee of €2 for each piece of baggage, including my laptop bag, camera bag and main luggage.

On another occasion, late one evening, after dinner and drinks at the Roland Garros bistro in Saint-Denis, I asked the staff to call me a taxi as I didn’t wish to walk back to my apartment. When the driver arrived the meter was already running and had €12 on the display. When I asked the driver why my journey was starting at €12, he explained that, since it was after hours, and he had to drive across town to collect me, that I had to pay for the whole journey, from the time he started his engine! Really??

If you must hire a taxi for an airport transfer, I highly recommend, Pierre Picard of 123 Transfert. Pierre is a private operator, offering transport at reasonable rates, without any of the nonsense. A native of Reunion who spent many years working in France, Pierre is very professional, speaks English and provides transport options island-wide. He can be contacted at:

WhatsApp/ Cell: +262 693 465 708
Email: contact@123transfert.eu
URL: www.123transfert.eu

Rental Car

The license plate on my rental car with the 974 French department number of Réunion.

While taxis should be avoided on Reunion, the best thing you can do for yourself is to hire a rental car the moment you arrive and keep it for the duration of your stay.

With taxis costing a fortune and buses running infrequently, a rental car will be your best transport investment on Reunion.

Being a French territory, the rental companies offer affordable, compact French cars such as Peugeot, Citroen and Renault starting at less than €30 per day.

If you’re from a part of the world where automatic transmission is the norm, you should know that cars on Reunion follow French norms and are almost all manual transmission.

The following rental agencies have branches at the airport:

My rental car on the road to Cilaos.

That’s the end of my Réunion Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Mayotte Travel Guide

6 years ago

Darren McLean

View of Mayotte from my Ultralight flight.

Mayotte Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Mayotte Travel Guide!

Date Visited: March 2019

Introduction

Shaped like a seahorse, the French, Indian Ocean, territory of Mayotte is known for its beautiful lagoon, sandy beaches, and lush green countryside.

A view of Mayotte Lagoon from my ultralight flight over the island.

Created by ancient volcano’s, Mayotte is made up of eroded mountains and meandering streams and consists of two islands; the smaller, Petite Terre (10 km2), which is home to the airport and a beautiful crater lake and the larger, Grande Terre (39 kilometres long / 22 kilometres wide), which is home to the capital Mamoudzou.

The seahorse-shaped Mayotte.

Due to its location and past history, Mayotte faces insurmountable social issues (see the following section), with illegal immigration being the most significant. Historically part of the Comoros, at the time of independence in 1975, Mayotte voted to remain French to benefit from French development funds, which residents feared it would no longer receive. The French then embarked on a development program to modernise the island. This program is ongoing and is very much a ‘work in progress’.

The west coast town of Sada as seen from my ultralight flight over Mayotte.

In 2011, Mayotte became the 101st French département, the country’s newest. The department status of Mayotte is recent and the region remains, by a significant margin, the poorest in France. Mayotte is nevertheless much more prosperous than the other countries of the Mozambique Channel, making it a beacon of hope for illegal refugees.

Mayotte is surrounded by one of the World’s largest lagoons.

The development of Mayotte has created a huge disparity between it and the neighbouring Comoros Island, which is ranked as the 11th poorest nation on earth. While residents on Mayotte earn a third of the salaries of those in metropolitan France, their salaries are 15 times more than those in the neighbouring Comoros.

A shop on Rue du Commerce, the main street of the capital – Mamoudzou.

The capital city of Mayotte is the unremarkable Mamoudzou, which is located on the eastern side of Grand-Terre. An inter-island barge connects Mamoudzou to the island of Petite Terre.

The finest beach on Mayotte, N’Gouja beach is a beautiful gold-sand beach set on a curved bay on the south coast.

Tourism on Mayotte is in its infancy, and with a complete lack of hotels and restaurants, it is a challenging travel destination – best suited to intrepid adventurers.

Social Issues

An excellent introduction to the challenges facing Mayotte is provided in the following Al Jazeera documentary (47 mins), which is compulsory viewing for anyone who wishes to understand the complex social and political issues facing this French outpost.

Airfares between Mayotte and its nearest neighbour, Anjoun, are prohibitively expensive at €300 return on Ewa Airways for the 40 minute flight. Additionally, visa’s to Mayotte, which are required by all Comoran passport holders, cost €100.

All very expensive, which forces Comoran’s to undertake a dangerous sea voyage between the islands. The body of water separating the two islands has become the widest cemetery in the world with an estimated 10,000 Comoran’s drowned, most of them women and children.

My guest house in the town of Sada. Homes on Mayotte are secured with bars and grill doors to prevent robberies.

The French government estimates that illegal immigrants account for 40% of the islands’ population, which places great pressure on Mayotte’s health, housing and education services.

With such a large portion of the population living in makeshift slums, without any opportunity to work, crime levels are high.

Homes on Mayotte are often surrounded by high security walls and secured with barred windows and grilled doors. The pressure created from such a large number of refugees has led to recent protests.

Environmental Issues

A beach, covered with litter, in the east coast town of Sada.

Mayotte is a beautiful tropical island which is blessed with green, forested hills and wonderful tropical beaches. Unfortunately, anywhere there are people, the environment is spoiled by illegal dumping and littering, with lots of plastic waste being washed into the turquoise lagoon.

The French government has installed street-side litter bins in urban areas, especially along the waterfront in downtown Mamoudzou, however the bins mostly remain empty while litter covers the ground around them. Educating the locals to place their rubbish in a bin, rather than dropping it on the ground, requires a cultural change which will take time.

In all towns, large, communal, skip bins have been placed by the roadside, but collections do not keep pace with the amount of rubbish being produced, resulting in piles of rubbish covering the ground. Large recycling bins have been installed in all towns, but plastic waste litters every town.

Location

Mamoudzou, Mayotte

Mayotte is the most easterly island in the Comoros archipelago, located in the Mozambique channel, midway between Mozambique and Madagascar.

With an area of 374 square kilometres, Mayotte is an ancient, volcanic island, the terrain is undulating, with deep ravines and ancient volcanic peaks. The territory is surrounded by one of the largest lagoons in the world which is encompassed by an almost impenetrable fringing reef.

The ‘S’ Pass is one of the few passages through the fringing reef.

People

A Mahorais store owner at Mamoudzou Central market wearing the traditional ‘Salouva’.

The population of Mayotte in 2019 was 270,372. Most of the people on Mayotte are Mahorais of Malagasy origin and are Sunni Muslim with influences from French culture.

While French is the official language, most Mahorais speak Shimaore, the same language which is spoken throughout the Comoros Islands. Mahorais woman often look resplendent in their Salouva, a long cotton tube tied around the chest and falling to the feet.

Unlike other French territories, which have sizeable French ex-pat populations, who contribute to the economy and society, French ex-pats on Mayotte represent just 4% of the population. Most of these are conscripted government workers who work mainly in the municipal administration and are in a position of authority. The French clearly are not embracing their newest département!

Camera Shy Locals

The Mahorais will always hide from the camera.

As a photographer, I was hoping to get some nice people shots on Mayotte, however, I quickly learnt that the Mahorais do not like having their photo taken and will either refuse any requests or turn their back to hide their face. If you want to clear a street in downtown Mamoudzou, you only need to show your camera.

Bao

“Bao” is Swahili for “board” and refers to a traditional mancala board game which is played throughout Africa, including on Mayotte. The objective of the game is to ‘capture and sow’ beads from the opponents side of the board. The one who captures all beads is the winner. It’s believed the game has existed since the 7th century and possibly existed in Ancient Egypt.

Video:

Playing ‘Bao‘ in the village of Sada, Mayotte.

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Fauna & Flora

Originally introduced from Madagascar, the Common Brown Lemur is widespread on Mayotte.

The Common Brown Lemur, originally from Madagascar, was introduced by humans prior to European colonisation and is found throughout Mayotte, in both urban and rural areas (these photos were taken in the town of M’zouasia). A sizeable population can be found on N’Gouja beach, on the south coast.

Lemurs are very inquisitive creatures which allows for excellent photography as they seem to pose for the camera.

Lemurs are very inquisitive creatures which allows for excellent photography as they pose for the camera.

Lemurs normally live in groups of 5 to 12 and are active during the day and early evening. One evening I watched a parade of 10 lemurs tight-rope walking along the length of a power line in Boueni. Lemurs are by nature, inquisitive creatures which makes it easy to photograph them as they’ll come to investigate you.

A juvenile Common Brown Lemur – even more inquisitive than the parents.

Like many parts of mainland Africa and Madagascar, Mayotte is home to towering baobab trees. These giants of the natural world are omnipresent on Mayotte where they line most beaches. The Baobab originated from sub-Saharan Africa but nowadays is found all over the tropical and sub-tropical parts of the Africa, always in dry places as it does not tolerate humidity.

A towering Baobab tree on Sakouli beach.

The largest Baobab on Mayotte can be found on Musicale beach and has a trunk circumference of 28 m.

The large fruit of the Baobab tree is used by locals to make fruit juice which has a citrus flavour.

The tree produces a large, pendulous fruit which can grow up to 20 to 30 cm in length. The pulp of the fruit is edible and can be eaten out of hand or diluted in water to make a refreshing drink, which can easily be found on restaurant menus.

Currency

The Euro (€).

The official currency of Mayotte is the Euro (€), with €1 currently (June 2019) worth US$1.11.

Several French banks in downtown Mamoudzou provide ATM’s. Outside of the capital, there are very few ATM’s, and most businesses only accept cash or cheques (from French banks) which are still in wide-spread use in the French world.

Costs

Mayotte is not cheap! It’s a mystery why a glass of freshly squeezed juice, made from abundantly available, local, tropical fruit should cost €7!

Sample costs:

Cappuccino at Caribou Hotel: €3 (US$3.36)
Fresh Fruit Juice at Caribou Hotel: €7 (US$7.84)
Car hire (compact car per day): €75 (US$84)
Litre of fuel: €1.34 (US$1.50)
Salad at Caribou Hotel: €15 (US$16.80)
Main course at Caribou Hotel: €27 (US$30.24)
Dessert at Caribou Hotel: €7 (US$7.84)
Room in a budget hotel (Airbnb apartment): (US$80)
Room in a mid-range hotel (Maharajah Hotel): €144 (US$160)

Sights

Mamoudzou

The ‘Place Mariage’ is the prettiest part of downtown Mamoudzou, offering boutiques, travel agents and electronics shops.

Mamoudzou is a charmless, soulless capital which offers little of interest for the visitor. With chaotic streets full of litter, a few hours would be enough to explore the small downtown area, the waterfront and the central market. There’s no reason to stay in town unless you’re here on government duties or for business.

Like their African sisters, the Mahorais woman wear colourful clothing made from African wax printed fabrics.

The main street, the Rue du Commerce, is lined with shops selling cheap Chinese products, with the occasional clothing store offering a splash of colour.

Spices for sale in Mamoudzou central market.

Located on the waterfront, next to the Office de Tourisme, Mamoudzou Central market offers local produce and spices.

The marina in Mamoudzou harbour is home to pleasure craft, all of which are owned by French ex-pats.

The waterfront in Mamoudzou is home to several informal take-away restaurants which have been setup in shipping containers. A marina is home to various small pleasure craft which are used for weekend recreation by the ex-pat community.

A view of Mamoudzou harbour from the ‘Auberge du Rond-Point’ restaurant.

Dzaoudzi

A view of Dzaoudzi from the Inter-island barge.

Petite Terre is comprised of two islands; the smaller Dzaoudzi and the larger Pamanzi, which are connected by a causeway. Dzaoudzi is the terminus for the inter-island barge while Pamanzi is home to the Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.

Until 1962, Dzaoudzi served as the capital of the entire Comoros. Today, this sleepy settlement is Mayotte’s administrative centre and home to Mayotte’s only museum.

The small Musée MUMA in Dzaoudzi provides an overview of Mayotte culture, fauna and flora.

Opened in September 2015, the Musée MUMA (open: 9 am – 5 pm every day except Sunday) is the only attraction in Dzaoudzi and the only museum in the territory.

The skeleton of a Sperm Whale at the Musée MUMA in Dzaoudzi.

The small museum provides an insight into the culture, environment, archaeology and traditions of Mayotte and includes an impressive skeleton from a Sperm Whale which was found in 1995 in the lagoon.

Pamanzi

Located on Petite Terre, the water in Dziani Dzaha crater lake is twice as salty as the nearby sea water.

Located on Pamanzi, the beautiful crater lake of Dziani Dzaha where the emerald-coloured water is twice as salty as the nearby sea water.

Les ULM de Mayotte

Pamanzi is home to the only airport on Mayotte and its where you’ll find the wonderful Les ULM de Mayotte, who offer spectacular ultra-light flights over the island, which was the highlight of my trip. Operating from a small wooden cabin, a short distance from the airport, Les ULM de Mayotte are open every day, except Sunday and Monday. Advance reservation is recommended and credit cards are not accepted.

My competent pilot, Fred, and his Skyranger ultralight plane.

I flew with the very capable Fred in his 2-seater Skyranger Ultralight which weighs just 250 kg when empty.

Fred giving me the safety briefing. The plane is equipped with its own parachute for use in emergencies.

Constructed from aluminium tubes and fibreglass panels, the plane has a built-in parachute which can be activated in the event of an emergency, allowing the plane to float back to earth. After a safety briefing, we departed from the airport and flew a one-hour loop over the lagoon and the southern half of Mayotte.

Flying over Mont Choungui, a conical volcanic mountain, located in the south of Mayotte.

After spending a week exploring the territory by road, it was great to be able to view the island from above. My window had a large cut-out section which allowed me to photograph ‘outside the plane’.

One of the many highlights was a loop around the summit of Mont Choungui which is an ancient, conical volcanic mountain and the 2nd highest point on the island at 593 m (1,946 ft).

Flying over the island of Chissioua Mbouzi, en route to the airport.

Sakouli Beach

A panoramic view of Sakouli beach.

Remote and wild, Sakouli beach is located on a remote stretch of the south-east coast, between baobabs and brown volcanic sand.

One of the most beautiful beaches on the island, Sakouli attracts day-trippers from Mamoudzou and is home to the best accommodation on Mayotte – the O’lolo Hôtel (see ‘Accommodation‘ below) which offers tastefully decorated rooms bungalows overlooking the beach.

N’Gouja Beach

N’Gouja beach is the prettiest beach on Mayotte and home to many sea turtles.

Located on the southwest coast of Grand Terre, N’Gouja beach is a beautiful gold-sand beach set on a curved bay. Considered the best beach on Mayotte, its remote location ensures the beach is free of the usual litter. The beach is home to one of the few accommodation options on this part of the island, the Jardin Maoré (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below).

An aerial view of N’Gouja beach from my Ultralight flight.

Diving is available through Jardin Maoré while an offshore sea-grass bed attracts green sea turtles which makes for great snorkelling (see the ‘Diving‘ section below). A sign at the entrance gate indicates that parking costs €20 which is only enforced on the busy weekends. I visited during the week and paid nothing!

The view of the south coast at Kanikeli.

Boueni

The volcanic-sand beach at Boueni.

The west coast town of Boueni offers a brown-sand beach, two restaurants and one terrible accommodation option – Les Pieds dans l’Eau (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section below). A shallow onshore reef makes this beach less than ideal for swimming.

Sada

Watching the sunset from Sada beach with the island of Chissioua Sada in the background.

The west coast town of Sada is home to one of the best restaurants on Mayotte, Nasso na Bisso, (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more) and one of the best accommodation options I found on Mayotte – Maison Fleurie (see the ‘Accommodation‘ section for more).

The town makes an ideal base while exploring the west coast and offers spectacular sunsets from the beach.

North Coast

The offshore island of Chissioua Handréma is popular with weekend boaters.

The north coast of Mayotte features rugged mountains which descend to the sea. The best viewpoint is at the picturesque Baie de Handréma which offers views over the island of Chissioua Handréma .

Storm clouds over Baie de Handréma, one of the best views on the north coast.

Diving/ Snorkelling

Mayotte lagoon is surrounded by a fringing reef, offering wonderful diving.

Located in the west coast town of M’zouasia, Abalone Plongée offers diving from their beach-side dive shop. Abalone are one of the few dive operators on Mayotte and are very popular. At the time of my visit, they were booked out for the next five days. Best to book in advance via their website! Single dives with full equipment rental cost €57 (US$63).

Located on the southwest coast, N’Gouja beach is home to a large sea-grass bed which attracts lots of turtles.

A short distance offshore from the beautiful N’Gouja beach, a sea-grass bed attracts green sea turtles, making this a popular snorkelling spot. Diving at N’Gouja beach can be arranged through the Dive Centre at Jardin Maoré.

Accommodation

The biggest hotel on Mayotte, the 70 room, 3-star, Maharajah hotel.

The accommodation scene on Mayotte is very disappointing and could best be described as ‘2-star facilities at 5-star prices‘. There is a complete lack of hotels on the island, and those few that do exist are normally fully booked by the French government and French companies. The best chance of securing accommodation is in one of the beach-side bungalow properties which can be found away from the capital.

With a limited number of hotels, and a complete lack of competition, the few existing properties are always running at close to 100% occupancy, so there’s no need to try too hard and no need to spend money on upgrading facilities. Most properties are old and tired and wouldn’t attract many customers in the real world.

The one saving grace is Airbnb which has about 40 properties listed. However, almost all of these are private rooms in family houses rather than private apartments.

Grande Terre

My Airbnb apartment in Mamoudzou.

Mamoudzou

Hotel Maharajah

With 70 rooms, the 3-star Hotel Maharajah is the largest hotel on Mayotte and a popular choice with French Gendarmerie (police) who seem to occupy most of the rooms, leaving just a few rooms for visitors. At the time of my visit, the only room available was a suite for €280 (US$312) per night. Mamoudzou is hardly Monaco! The cheapest rooms on booking.com or hotels.com average €144 per night (US$160).

Hôtel Caribou

Also downtown is the old and faded 2-star Hôtel Caribou which is in need to a complete makeover – but since there’s no competition in town, why spend the money! Like the few other hotels on Mayotte, the Caribou normally operates at close to 100% and is a popular choice for visiting French businessmen. The hotel restaurant/ bar is very popular, with Karaoke once a week.

Sakouli Beach

The O’lolo Hôtel overlooks Sakouli beach which is home to some impressive Baobab trees.

The O’lolo Hôtel overlooks the popular east coast beach of Sakouli, a volcanic sand beach which is framed by towering Baobab trees. Tastefully decorated, wooden bungalows, start at €110 (US$123). The onsite restaurant provides the only food for miles around.

N’Gouja Beach

Located on N’Gouja beach, Jardin Maoré offers simple bungalows from €160 (US$177) per night. An onsite restaurant offers the best food on the south coast.

Boueni

Located on the beach in the west coast town of Boueni, Les Pieds dans l’Eau (Feet in the Water) is a loveless, soulless place which offers rundown, hostel style accommodation for €45 per room.

Some rooms have bathrooms, some have shared bathrooms. There’s a communal kitchen with cupboards which are devoid of any utensils or cooking equipment. A very uninspiring breakfast is served each morning in a plastic container which is left in the kitchen. The owners are largely absent and room service is non-existent. Not recommended!

Sada

In Sada, I stayed in the brand new Maison Fleurie which I booked on Airbnb. It was the 2nd best accommodation I found on Mayotte. The owners of this private residence have built several self-contained, very comfortable, apartments on the 2nd floor of their large home.

The property is located on an unmarked country lane which is not on Google Maps. I organised for the owners to meet me at the nearby Nasso na Bisso restaurant (see the ‘Eating Out‘ section for more on this excellent restaurant) who then escorted me to their home.

Highly recommended!

The living room of my Airbnb apartment at Maison Fleurie in Sada.

Petite Terre

Dzaoudzi

Overlooking the barge dock in Dzaoudzi, Le Rocher is the only hotel on Petite Terre, offering 22 old and dated rooms from €109 – 199. The hotel is normally 100% booked by French businessmen and French Civil Servants, so best to reserve well in advance.

Labattoir

My Airbnb room in Labattoir.

Since Le Rocher was never available, I stayed at an Airbnb in the nearby town of Labattoir. Like other Airbnb properties on Mayotte, the owners met me at the airport to escort me to their property since the neighbourhood was makeshift (largely a slum) and none of the streets were on Google Maps.

Located on a hill, overlooking the sea, the stylish, modern, neat and tide, tastefully designed, 2-storey house felt like anything in France, but outside the high security walls, litter was strewn everywhere and the neighbours lived in makeshift shacks constructed from corrugated iron sheets.

Eating Out

My favourite restaurant in Mamoudzou, the charming Auberge du Rond-Point offers wonderful meals.

Like the accommodation scene, restaurants are in short supply on Mayotte. While there are several restaurants in Mamoudzou and on Petite Terre, elsewhere options are very limited.

Grande Terre

Mamoudzou

The Auberge du Rond-Point.

My favourite restaurant in Mamoudzou is the charming Auberge du Rond-Point which is located across the road from the Town Hall. Offering alfresco dining with magnificent views over the harbour, the best deal here is the ‘lunchtime express‘ menu. For €20 you get a main course, dessert and coffee – a bargain for Mayotte.

The lunch menu at Auberge du Rond-Point is good value at €20.

The restaurant at the Hôtel Caribou is a local institution and always busy. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the restaurant provides reasonable food at less-than-reasonable prices. With a fresh fruit juice costing €7, main courses costing €25-30, the restaurant takes advantage of the fact that there are very few dining options for visitors in Mayotte.

Food stalls at Mamoudzou central market offer affordable local food.

A much better value meal, in less salubrious surroundings, can be found at the Mamoudzou Central Market which is home to several outdoor food stalls which offer cheap, local BBQ meals.

One of the best restaurants in the country is the very small but excellent Nasso na Bisso (open: 12–3 pm & 7–10 pm every day except Sunday) which is located in a quiet side street in the west coast town of Sada. Open for lunch and dinner, the restaurant is famous for its hamburgers, which are amazing.

Petite Terre

An amazing dinner at Le Faré – veal in a creamy mustard sauce with fresh pasta.

The best restaurant on Mayotte is, without a doubt, the incredible and impeccable Le Faré (open: 11 am – 1 am every day except Monday and Tuesday).

The friendly French crew who own and run this fine dining restaurant offer amazing French cuisine, cocktails, craft beers and wine, all served in a beautifully designed environment.

In the evening, a towering baobab tree in the garden is lit with fairy lights with dining tables arranged under the huge limbs. Appetisers average €16, main courses €22-26 and amazing desserts €12-15. This is one place not to be missed!

Visa Requirements

Mayotte passport stamps.

Mayotte is a French overseas territory, but it is not part of the Schengen Zone and, as such, applies its own visa policy. While French and European passport holders can reside for an unlimited period, many other nationalities can remain for 3 to 6 months.

Getting There

The modern terminal at Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.

Air

On approach to Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.

All flights into Mayotte arrive at Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport (IATA: DZA) which is located on the smaller island of Petite-Terre, a short barge ride east of the main island of Grande-Terre.

The airport serves as the base for Ewa Air, the small, local airline which provides (expensive) connections to the neighbouring countries of Comoros, Madagascar, Mozambique and Tanzania.

Ewa Air and Air Austral at Dzaoudzi–Pamandzi International Airport.

The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from Mayotte:

AB Aviation – flies to/from Anjouan, Moheli, Moroni
Air Austral – flies to/from Paris–Charles de Gaulle, Saint-Denis de la Réunion
Air Madagascar – flies to/from Antananarivo, Antsiranana, Majunga
Ewa Air – flies to/from Anjouan, Antsiranana, Dar es Salaam, Majunga, Moroni, Nosy Be, Pemba (MZ)
Kenya Airways – flies to/from Nairobi–Jomo Kenyatta

Airport Transport

Shared mini-vans and taxis connect the airport with the barge at Dzaoudzi wharf for a few Euro’s.

Sea

I was very fortunate to see one of just three cruise ships which call at Mayotte each year – the MV Silversea Whisper.

A grand total of three cruise ships call at Mayotte each year, you can check the schedule here. My stay coincided with the arrival, on the 7th of April, of the MV Silversea Whisper.

Getting Around

Public Transport

There are no public buses on Mayotte! As you drive around the island, you’ll have the opportunity to pick up many appreciative locals as everyone hitch-hikes.

Taxi

Shared taxis are available on Petite Terre and Grande Terre with fares within Mamoudzou costing €1.10. Beyond Mamoudzou, fares to neighbouring villages cost €1.30.

Ferry

Financed by the European Union, the Karihani Barge docked at Mamoudzou.

Inter-island barges connect the two islands of Petite Terre and Grande Terre, carrying passengers and vehicles. With a crossing time of 20 minutes, barges depart on the half hour and operate seven days a week as per the following schedule:

Monday to Thursday
Every half hour from 05h30 to 20h00
Every hour from 20h00 to 00h00
Friday
Every half hour from 05h30 to 20h00
Every hour from 20h00 to 03h00
Saturday
Every 1/2 hour of 06h00 à 20h00
Every hour from 20h00 to 03h00
Sunday and public holidays
Every half hour from 7h00 to 20h00
Every hour from 20h00 to 00h00

On board the Karihani barge.

Fares are charged only when departing from Mamoudzou, with the passenger fare costing € 0.75, while a car costs €15.

Rental Car

My rental car on the inter-island ferry.

The best way to maximise your time on Mayotte is to rent a car from one of the agents at the airport. The supply of cars on Mayotte is limited so it’s best to book well in advance. Once you have your car, your first drive will be to the inter-island ferry which connects Petite Terre to Grande Terre.

The license plate of my rental car bearing the Mayotte department number of 976.

The following agents (who speak partial English) have branches at the airport and also in downtown Mamoudzou:

Budget Car Rental (Tel: +262 269 61 66 16)
Europcar (Tel: +262 269 61 72 72)
Garcia Car Rental (Tel: +262 269 60 54 95)
MultiAuto

A rental car is the best way to explore Mayotte.

That’s the end of my Mayotte Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Maldives Travel Guide

7 years ago

Darren McLean

Cover Photo: TMA Flight to Vilamendhoo Resort.

Maldives Travel Guide

Welcome to the taste2travel Maldives Travel Guide!

Date Visited: November 2017

Introduction

Mention the Maldives and most people rightly think of opulent, luxurious holidays spent at a private-island resort. Tourism in the Maldives began in 1972, with the opening of two resorts and, since then, the number of tourists visiting the country has risen steadily, with 105 resorts today catering to the needs of holiday makers.

Painted coconut souvenir from the art studio of Ibrahim Shinaz of Maafushi Island.

Up until 2009, tourists were required to stay in these isolated resorts which are built on uninhabited, private islands where all services are offered within the island, and where guests have little contact with the local people.

The view from my TMA flight from Malé to Vilamendhoo Resort.

In that year, the government made regulatory changes, allowing tourists to stay in guest houses among the local population on inhabited (i.e. public) islands, rather than just in exclusive, private-island resorts.

Maafushi is open to independent travelers.

The main aim of the change in policy was to create new jobs and allow more Maldivians to enjoy the benefits from tourism. This has led to a building boom in guest house accommodation – nowhere more so than Maafushi Island, which is a short speedboat ride from the airport and Malé. It has also allowed travelers to mix freely with the local population.

Young girl on Maafushi Island.

Other inhabited islands are now starting to develop tourist infrastructure. At present a window of opportunity exists for travelers who wish to explore these tropical paradise isles before the tourist hoards arrive. Now is the time to visit the Maldives, and while there, I would recommend indulging yourself with a stay at one of the many fine resorts.

Colourful street art on Maafushi Island.

Splitting my visit into three parts, I spent time in a resort (see ‘Deluxe Travel‘ below), before moving onto Maafushi Island (see ‘Independent Travel‘ below) and finally some time spent exploring Malé.

Location

Maldives

The Maldives is an archipelago of 1,192 coral islands grouped into 26 coral atolls (200 inhabited islands, plus 80 islands with tourist resorts).

A map of the Maldives printed onto a sarong.

Located in the Indian Ocean, the Maldives lie southwest of Sri Lanka and India and comprise a territory spanning roughly 298 square kilometres (115 square miles).

The country is one of the most geographically dispersed in the world and is the smallest country in Asia – both in terms of land area and population (427,756 inhabitants).

The Maldives has the distinction of being the World’s flattest country with an average elevation of just 1.8 metres (6 feet). The highest point in the country is just 2.4 metres (8 feet) above sea level.

History

Traditional boat-building is still practised on Maafushi island.

Early History & Buddhism

Archaeological finds reveal that the Maldives were inhabited as early as 1500 BC, with the first settlers arriving around 500 BC from Persia.

Prior to Islam, the inhabitants of the Maldives practiced Buddhism, with the country remaining a Buddhist kingdom for a period of 1,400 years.

Boat building techniques haven’t changed in centuries (except for the use of power tools).

It was during this time that the culture of the Maldives developed and flourished, with the Maldivian language, script, architecture, customs and manners being established.

A traditional wooden <i> Dhoni </i> on Maafushi Island.

A traditional wooden Dhoni on Maafushi Island.

Thaana Script ()

Thaana script on Maafushi Island.

Looking like strangely stylised Arabic, the script of the Maldives – Thaana – was developed during the 18th century by an unknown inventor and is based on an earlier script – Dhives Akuru.

Thaana script in Malé.

Like Arabic, Thaana is written right to left, and is widely used throughout the Maldives.

Islam

Historical cemetery on the grounds of the Friday mosque in Malé – the oldest mosque in the Maldives.

Despite it’s strong Buddhist foundation, constant contact with Arab traders saw the country finally convert to Islam in 1153 AD. The first Muslim Sultan of the Maldives was Mohamed Bin Abdullah who ordered the construction of the first mosque in 1153 on the site of the present-day Friday Mosque in Malé.

Today, Islam is the state religion of the Maldives and, as per the constitution, it’s citizens are legally required to adhere to it. The constitution also states “that a non-Muslim may not become a citizen of the Maldives”. Despite the legal requirements – and like other Asian Muslim nations such as Malaysia and Indonesia – a milder version of Islam is practiced in the Maldives.

Colonial Period

Despite attempts by colonial powers to claim the Maldives, the country has remained an independent state throughout most of it’s history. The country was occupied for a brief period of 15 years by the Portuguese in the 16th century and voluntarily accepted a period of British protection which lasted from 1887 to 1965. During this period, the Sultan remained head of state, there was no British Governor or representative and Britain did not interfere in the country’s internal affairs.

Maldives Today

In an atoll nation like the Maldives, boats are the main form of transport.

The Maldives today is economically prosperous and is characterised by peace, stability and growth. Tourism is the main economic activity, accounting for 28% of GDP and more than 60% of the Maldives’ foreign exchange receipts. The country also has a large fishing industry.

While Maldivians are enjoying a period of prosperity, the biggest threat to the country emanates from the outside world – specifically global warming and rising sea levels.

Global Warming – a nation under threat…

The low-lying islands of the Maldives, such as Maafushi Island, feature white sandy beaches with fringing coral reefs.

Being the World’s flattest country, with an average elevation of just 1.8 metres (6 feet), the Maldives is at more risk than any other from the threat posed by Global Warming and rising sea levels.

Current scientific projections estimate that by the year 2100, sea levels could rise by .80 metres (2.6 feet) or as much as 2 metres (6.6 feet), depending on how much water is released from glacial and ice sheet melt. Scientists estimate the Maldives would lose 77% of its land area by the end of the century.

Along with other atoll countries – Kiribati, Marshall Islands, Tokelau and Tuvalu, the Maldives is a member of CANCC – the Coalition of Low Lying Atoll Nations, whose aim is to focus global attention on the affects of rising sea levels on the member countries.

Apart from the loss of land, rising sea levels also pose other risks such as periodic flooding from storm surge, and a scarcity of freshwater. Rising sea temperatures are also impacting the Maldives. In 2016, record high water temperatures – caused by climate change and the “El Nino” phenomenon – resulted in a coral ‘bleaching‘ event which affected 60% of reefs.

To leave or stay?

The policy of the previous government was to leave. This was to be achieved by finding suitable land elsewhere (India or Sri Lanka were two options) and relocating the population.

The current governments’ policy is to stay. To do this, they have embarked on a number of ambitious land reclamation projects, ensuring any new land is built at a higher elevation. The poster child for this program is the island of Hulhulmalé, which is located northeast of the airport island – Hulhulé.

According to the Maldives Housing Development Corporation (HDB) – Hulhulmalé was established as a “climate change resilient city” and is expected to house up to 240,000 people once completed, which will provide much relief for over-crowded Malé.

People

Mother and daughter, relaxing on the speedboat from Maafushi to Malé.

While the Maldives offers plenty of pristine, white-sand-beach islands and amazing marine life, the real asset of the country are the Maldivians themselves.

The people in the Maldives, often referred to as Maldivians, belong to the Dhivehis ethnic group. A nation which stands at a trading crossroads, the Maldivians are genetically similar to Indians, Sri Lankans, Africans, Arabs and Malays (the groups from which most Maldivians are said have descended). The country is a true cultural melting pot!

A long way from home – a pet Macaw being taken for a walk on Maafushi Island.

The mixed race of the Maldivians means the country has a rich history and culture. Approximately 98.4% of the population is Muslim, with 0.9% of the population practising Christianity and around 0.7% of the population who practice another religion.

Most Maldivians adhere to the Sunni School of Islam, which has been practised since 1153 AD. Prior to that, the main religions were Buddhism and Paganism.

Covered girls on Maafushi Island, where rules require any tourist wearing a bikini on the beach to be covered prior to leaving the beach.

During my stay, I found the Maldivians to be friendly, warm, welcoming, polite, respectful and gentle. The proud race, the Maldivians are known to be kind, helpful and extremely welcoming, and are famous for their hospitality and high level of service. It’s a perfect blend for a country which relies so heavily on tourism.

A young girl relaxing on Maafushi Island.

Added to this – there are no pushy touts, no haggling over prices and a low crime rate, which makes the Maldives a very pleasant place to travel.

A young boy, enjoying his milk, on Maafushi Island.

Flag

The flag of the Maldives.

Adopted on the 25th of July 1965, the flag of the Republic of Maldives features a green rectangle at its centre which is surrounded by a red border. The centre bears a vertical white crescent with the closed side of the crescent facing the hoist side of the flag.

The flag of the Maldives flying in Malé.

The red rectangle represents the boldness of the nation’s heroes, and their willingness to sacrifice their blood in defence of their country. The green rectangle in the centre symbolises peace and prosperity while the white crescent moon symbolises the Islamic faith of the state and authorities.

Currency

The obverse side of the Maldivian Rufiyaa banknote.

The currency of the Maldives is the strikingly beautiful Rufiyaa (MVR). At the time of my visit the exchange rate against the US dollar was – $1 USD = 15.41 MVR.

The name “rufiyaa” is derived from the Sanskrit ‘rupya‘ which means “wrought silver”. On the 26th January 2016 an all-polymer series of notes (printed by De La Rue) was issued on the occasion of the Maldives’ golden jubilee by the Maldives Monetary Authority (MMA).

The reverse side of the Maldivian Rufiyaa banknote.

The MMA held a design competition for the new note series, known as the “Ran dhiha faheh” (Golden 50), with the winning design being selected from more than 200 submissions. If you wish to obtain un-circulated notes as a souvenir or gift, you can do so from the 1st floor of the MMA headquarters, located on the waterfront in downtown Malé adjacent to Republic Square.

Philately

The artwork on Maldivian stamps reflect local themes such as the colourful marine life with this issue featuring the Clown Triggerfish.

The stamps of the Maldives make for colourful, inexpensive souvenirs. Designs often feature beautiful artwork highlighting the marine life which abounds in the waters of this atoll nation.

A Maldives stamp issue featuring a Stingray.

Unfortunately, like many other postal organisations around the world, Maldives Post have decided to flood the philatelic market with issues which are totally irrelevant to this tropical, paradise country with one issue commemorating Sled Dogs!

If you wish to purchase stamps, you can do so from the philatelic counter at the National Museum in Malé.

Colourful fish are a common theme on Maldivian stamps.

Stamps are also available for purchase from the Maldives Post online shop where you’ll find both local issues and others commemorating subjects such as Mozart, the Mars Orbiter Mission or the Liberation of Paris!

Travel Options

While the Maldives has always offered deluxe travel, it now also offers independent travel. During my trip I had the opportunity to experience both options which I have written about.

Deluxe Travel

My home for four nights, the spectacular Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.
Source: Vilamendhoo.com

Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa

We all owe it to ourselves to spend some time, at least once in our lifetime, at a tropical paradise resort like Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.

A painted coconut souvenir from Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.

Vilamendhoo Island resort is surrounded by a beautiful lagoon, an excellent house reef and long stretches of white, sandy beach in the South Ari Atoll.

This 184-room, 4-star resort is owned by Crown & Champa Resorts who operate nine deluxe resorts throughout the Maldives and one hotel in downtown Malé.

The Vilamendhoo resort waiting lounge at the TMA seaplane terminal in Malé.

Vilamendhoo Island resort is located 82-km south-west of Malé in the South Ari Atoll and is reached via a scenic 25-minute seaplane flight with Trans Maldivian Airways.

The pampering begins before you reach the resort with guests being ushered into the exclusive Vilamendhoo waiting lounge at the TMA terminal in Malé.

TMA seaplanes, ready to board resort guests at Terminal C in Malé.

With the world’s largest seaplane fleet, Trans Maldivian Airways carries you from Velana International Airport to your paradise island resort.

The airline operates from three terminals (A, B and C) at the international terminal, with the largest, Terminal C, providing direct access to the outdoor deck departure area.

With our pilots onboard, we were ready to fly with TMA to Vilamendhoo Island resort.

One nice aspect of the flights with TMA is that the planes fly low over some stunningly beautiful atolls. The Maldives archipelago consists of 1190 tiny islands scattered across the Indian Ocean.

Of these, only 185 are inhabited! Many of the atolls are submerged and it’s here that you can appreciate the threat posed by rising oceans.

Some of the many submerged coral islands which comprise the South Ari Atoll.

TMA flights also call at multiple resorts on a single flight, offering passengers spectacular views of the many deluxe, private-island resorts which are scattered throughout the archipelago.

The landings and take-offs are also a fun experience, making a TMA seaplane flight a highlight of any trip to the Maldives.

Arriving at the Vilamendhoo Island Resort pontoon on my TMA seaplane flight.

A private-island resort, Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa is built on an atoll which is 900 metres long, 250 metres wide, with guest rooms lined up along the white sand beaches.

An additional 30, deluxe, over-the-water chalets have been built over a shallow reef at one end of the island. The island has been (very thoughtfully) divided into a ‘family‘ section and an ‘adults only‘ section – I stayed in the later.

Arriving at Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.

The resort is ideally placed for those who like snorkelling and diving, being situated between two channels and surrounded on all sides by a house reef. Some of the best diving in the Maldives are located in the waters around the Vilamendhoo Island Resort.

Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa offers everything you would expect from a luxury resort.

Vilamendhoo is a 4* resort (owned by Crown & Champa Resorts) which provides all the ingredients required for a truly special holiday. Facilities and activities include:

White Sand Beaches

Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa is ringed by powdery white-sand beaches.

Being a coral island, Vilamendhoo offers stunning white sand beaches. Lounge chairs and hammocks have been placed along the beaches which line both sides of the island. The house reef, which offers spectacular snorkeling, is close to the shoreline.

A white-sand beach at Vilamendhoo.

Snorkelling

A house reef, teeming with colourful marine life, surrounds Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.

While at the resort, many guests take advantage of the incredible (and easily accessible) snorkelling, hiring their equipment from the dive shop. There are often slight currents moving through the channel but I used this to my advantage by doing ‘drift’ snorkels along the length of the island.

Due to a coral bleaching event in 2016 (see the ‘Global Warming‘ section above) most of the coral on the house reef is dead but there is still a staggering array of marine life.

Even without getting your feet wet, you can see baby black-tip reef sharks and baby Eagle rays regularly swimming along the shoreline of the island. Fantastic!

During my stay, baby black-tip reef sharks were constantly swimming along the shoreline of the Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.

Scuba Diving

Euro Divers operate a very professional dive shop at Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.

The resort dive shop is owned by Euro Divers. Please refer to the following section – “Deluxe Travel – Euro Divers” for more details on activities and packages available.

Excursions

Snorkelling with a majestic Whale Shark is an unforgettable experience.
Photo: Christine and Jeff Lees.

A variety of excursions are offered each day, providing guests with the possibility to snorkel/ swim with Turtles, Manta Rays, Whale Sharks or indulge in some fishing or a relaxing sunset ‘punch’ cruise.

I chose to do the Whale Shark excursion and was glad I did. We had the opportunity to snorkel with four of these majestic creatures, which are the largest fish in the world, reaching lengths of up to 12 metres.

A treatment at the Duniye spa at Vilamendhoo Island is a great way to unwind after a strenuous day of diving, snorkelling or sipping cocktails.

The sharks are filter feeders, feeding almost exclusively on Plankton and are in no way a threat to humans. Since I have no underwater camera, the above photo has been kindly provided by my Vilamendhoo neighbours – Christine & Jeff Lees who were on the same trip with me. Thanks guys!

If you wish to learn more about Whale Sharks in the Maldives, you can refer to the Maldives Whale Shark Research Programme website.

Swimming Pools

Sunset viewed from the <i>Sunset pool </i> at Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.

Sunset viewed from the Sunset pool at Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.

When you’ve had enough of the white sand beaches, the warm, turquoise water and the stunning house reef – you can choose to cool off in one of two pools – the Sunset pool (in the adults only section) or the larger Boashi pool (in the family section).

Duniye Spa

The over-water Duniye spa at the Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.

Built over the lagoon and accessed via an over-water boardwalk, the Duniye spa offers a variety of treatments. All guests are provided a free 15-minute massage which is great marketing.

Guests can watch the fish swimming on the reef while being massaged at the Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.

Wildlife at Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa

Tiny Vilamendhoo Island is covered with lush gardens and is surrounded by a house reef, all of which attracts a decent amount of wildlife, including birds, reptiles and marine life.

: A Grey Heron on Vilamendhoo Island.

: Oriental Garden Lizard on Vilamendhoo Island.

: A Flying Fox on Vilamendhoo Island.

: Grey Heron on Vilamendhoo Island.

: Baby Black-tip Reef Sharks are constantly seen along the shoreline of Vilamendhoo Island.

Gardens

Covered in lush greenery, Vilamendhoo Island is like a botanical garden and even has it’s own plant nursery.

Wherever there is free space in among the 55-acres of land on Vilamendhoo, you will find lush, green gardens. The resort has a team of gardeners and their own nursery.

Rooms

Please refer to the “Accommodation” section below for more details.

Restaurants & Bars

Please refer to the “Eating Out” section below for more details.

Euro Divers

Diving in the Maldives is sublime, from the amazing abundance of marine life (including Manta Rays and Whale Sharks) to the spectacular variety of corals.

Vilamendhoo is surrounded by a house reef and is located between two channels, making it a divers and snorkelers paradise. The dive shop at the resort is run by Euro Divers, who first started dive activities in the Maldives over forty years ago and today operate dive shops in nine different countries, including in 12 different resorts in the Maldives.

On offer are PADI dive courses, trial dives and a comprehensive selection of dive packages, all of which can be booked in advance from their website.

The Euro Divers <i>Dhoni</i>, ready to take us to our next dive sight.

The Euro Divers Dhoni, ready to take us to our next dive sight.

Boat dives (using a traditional wooden “Dhoni“) are conducted twice a day, with two-tank dives departing each morning at 08:15 and single-tank dives departing each afternoon at 14:15.

During my stay, I did three well-organised boat dives (e.g. all equipment waiting on the boat / punctual departures/ full site briefing while en-route/ well guided dives with a maximum amount of time in the water/ plus a cup of hot tea once back on-board the boat). If I ever get to return I will stay longer and book their 36-dive package.

The waters around Vilamendhoo Island are teeming with sharks, with baby sharks constantly seen cruising along the shoreline.

Independent Travel

Maafushi Island

All the streets on Maafushi Island are sandy laneways.

Located in the South Malé Atoll, a 30-minute speedboat ride from the airport or downtown Malé, Maafushi is the epi-centre of the burgeoning ‘independent travel’ scene in the Maldives. With it’s sand streets lined with palm trees, guest houses, cafes, restaurants, dive shops and souvenir stalls, Maafushi has a relaxed, laid-back, holiday atmosphere.

Typical Maldivian seascape as painted by Maafushi Island resident artist – Ibrahim Shinaz.

In 2010, the White Shell Beach Inn was the first guest house in the Maldives to be granted a licence to operate on a local island. Since then, scores of guest houses and hotels have sprung up on Maafushi with more under construction at the time of my visit.

With a strict dress code in force, Bikini’s can only be worn on one beach on Maafushi Island, the aptly named ‘Bikini beach’.

The accommodation scene on Maafushi is evolving rapidly. The original single-story guest houses are now looking old and dated and, are being upstaged by their neighbours – the new kids on the block – who are fancier, taller and include facilities such as indoor pools and business centres.

Independent travellers do not have the island to themselves, with package tourists from Eastern Europe and China arriving by the boat load.

Suzy is the proud owner of the ‘Fine Bake’ bakery, the best bakery on Maafushi Island which is renown for its ‘pineapple upside down’ cake.

In between the hotels, a host of businesses have opened to service the needs of travelers. Enterprising locals have opened art studios, cake shops, cafes, restaurants, laundries and gift shops. If you wish to see how beneficial tourism can be to a local economy there’s no better example than Maafushi.

One of my favourite local businesses (which I patronised everyday) was the Fine Bake Bakery which is owned and operated by the wonderful Suzy. Her cakes are amazing (especially her upside-down pineapple cake) and I’m happy to say I sampled most of them all during my stay.

Local artist, Ibrahim Shinaz (right), in his studio on Maafushi Island.

If you’re looking for a unique, hand-painted souvenir from the Maldives, you’ll find plenty of treasures at the art studio of Ibrahim Shinaz.

Where’s the beer?

No alcohol? No problem! Fresh fruit juices in the Maldives are delicious and a great way to detox!

If you like to party when on holiday you should know that the sale and consumption of alcohol is banned in the Maldives – with the only exceptions being private-island resorts and live-aboard boats which exist in their own bubble.

The importation of alcohol into the Maldives is forbidden!

Hand-painted souvenirs of the Maldives, from the studio of Ibrahim Shinaz on Maarfushi Island.

This ban includes Maafushi, but thirsty travellers will be happy to know that enterprising entrepreneurs have opened an offshore floating bar – Maha floating bar & restaurant – which is moored just offshore in the lagoon. If you wish to join the festivities, speedboat taxis will transfer you in minutes from the port to the boat.

A traditional boat on Maafushi Island, which is a centre of boat building.

Maafushi Dive

One of the friendly dudes from Maafushi divers.

While on Maafushi I did four dives with Maafushi dive. The dive shop is operated by a friendly bunch of young, local hipsters who ‘live and breath’ diving.

On my first dive I lost count of the amount of sharks (white-tip and grey reef) we saw while diving at 30-metres (98 feet) through a channel. The variety and abundance of marine life in the Maldives has to be seen to be believed.

Maldivian sunset by Maafushi Island artist – Ibrahim Shinaz.

Malé Sightseeing

While the main sights of the Maldives are the myriad coral islands, their white-sand beaches, the reefs and incredible variety of marine life – the capital city of Malé offers some cultural distractions worth investigating.

A panoramic view of crowded Malé from my TMA flight from Vilamendhoo Island Resort.

Most tourists to the Maldives skip Malé, travelling instead from the airport direct to their island resort. Malé is however an interesting capital, offering enough sights to easily hold your attention for a day.

Locals playing Chess in a cafe in Malé.

I arrived here after time spent relaxing on the islands and was happy to immerse myself in the hectic, crazy, bustling, cacophony of the city.

An aerial view of crowded Malé, one of the most densely populated cities in the world.

The first thing that strikes you about Malé is how compact and crowded it is. With a population of 133,412 squeezed into an area of just 5.8 square kilometres (2.2 square miles), Malé is one of the world’s smallest national capitals and is also one of the most densely populated cities in the world.

The island is easily walkable, being 1.7 kilometres long and 1 kilometre wide, which is a good thing since the streets are constantly jammed with traffic.

The narrow, bustling streets of Malé are always congested with parking spaces difficult to find.

All of this makes Malé the 5th most densely populated piece of real estate on the planet, having a population density of 47,416 inhabitants per square kilometre. With the streets constantly congested, the best way to explore tiny Malé is on foot.

National Museum

Old Malaafaiy lacquered wooden food cover, one of the displays at the National Museum.

Housed in a modern Chinese-built eye-sore, the Maldives’ National Museum provides a good overview of the history of the country and includes a range of historical artefacts, ranging from stone & wooden objects to royal antiquities. If you have an interest in learning more about Thaana or how the country converted from Buddhism to Islam then this is a good place to start. On the ground floor, there’s a philatelic display and a post office counter where you can buy stamps.

Produce & Fish Market

Shopping at the central market in Malé.

Due to the lack of soil in the Maldives, most produce is imported, with most of it ending up at the local market. Located on the waterfront adjacent to the fish market, the whole neighbourhood is one big sprawling bazaar with fish also being sold directly from fishing boats.

The Fish market is located on the waterfront in downtown Malé.

Dhivehi

Dhivehi, a local delicacy of cured tuna, can be purchased at the Fish market in Malé.

A speciality for which the Maldives is famous is Dhivehi – cured tuna fish. To prepare Dhivehi, the tuna is cut in a particular way, boiled in water, smoked then sun-dried it until it’s like a piece of wood.

If you wish to purchase some, you’ll find plenty of it at the market, vacuumed packed, ready for export. Chefs throughout the country include Dhivehi in dishes in creative ways. I once had a spaghetti Carbonara which was topped with flakes of Dhivehi rather than bacon.

A speciality of the Maldives, <i>Dhivehi</i> can be found in menus throughout the country.

A speciality of the Maldives, Dhivehi can be found in menus throughout the country.

Areca Nut

Dried Areca nuts at the Malé central market.

The chewing of Areca nut is a national pastime and there’s no better place to gain an understanding of everything Areca than at the central market in Malé.

Areca nuts being sliced by hand a the central market in Malé.

Consumed as a stimulant, the nut grows in all tropical regions of the world and is commonly known as Betel nut since it is usually wrapped in a betel leaf along with a dash of ‘Huni’ (lime paste) before being chewed.

Sliced Areca nuts are either eaten raw or wrapped in Betel leaf.

In the Maldives people prefer to chew thin slices of the dry Areca nut as a snack, which is akin to chewing on a piece of wood.

The preferred wrapper for Areca nut, Betel leaf on sale at the central market in Malé.

Friday Mosque & Cemetery

Constructed in 1153, the Friday Mosque in Malé is the oldest mosque in the Maldives.

Despite being covered by an ugly protective corrugated-iron sheet roof, the historical Malé Friday mosque (the oldest in the Maldives) is a beautiful and fascinating sight.

The current mosque was constructed in 1658, over an earlier mosque, which was constructed in 1153 by the first Muslim Sultan of the Maldives, Mohamed Bin Abdullah, after his conversion to Islam.

Intricate coral stonework panel at the Friday Mosque in Malé.

The mosque is made of interlocking coral blocks, with many of the blocks carved with intricate Islamic designs.

Coral tombstones at the Friday mosque cemetery.

Surrounding the Friday mosque is the most beautiful cemetery in the capital. Carved coral tombstones distinguish males, females, sultans and their families. Women’s tombstones have rounded tops; men’s have pointed tops, and inscriptions for royalty are gilt.

Presidential Residence

Mulee’aage – the modest residence of the President of the Maldives.

Opposite the Friday mosque is Mulee’aage – a small, unpretentious cottage which, since 2009, has served as the residence of the president. Built in 1914, the residence was built in a colonial style which was popular in Sri Lanka at the time.

Grand Friday Mosque

The Islamic Centre in Malé is home to the Grand Friday Mosque, one of the largest mosques in Asia.

Located on the grounds of the Islamic Centre in downtown Malé, the modern Grand Friday Mosque is the largest in the Maldives, and one of the largest in Asia, admitting over 5,000 worshippers. The mosque is free to visit outside of pray times, provided you’re dressed appropriately.

Coup d’état Memorial

Adjacent to the Islamic centre in Malé is a memorial to the failed 1988 coup d’état.

In front of the Islamic centre is a memorial to the 1988 Maldives coup d’état, which was an attempt to overthrow the government, led by a group of Maldivians, who were assisted by armed mercenaries from Sri Lanka. The coup failed due to the intervention of Indian Armed Forces.

Accommodation

My deluxe room at the Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.

In a country where tourism is the #1 industry, there’s no shortage of accommodation options and while deluxe resorts have existed for many decades, budget guest houses are now also available.

Malé

The very comfortable 4-star Champa Central hotel is located in the heart of Malé.

There are many different accommodation options tucked away in the crowded streets of Malé. I chose to stay at the 4-star Champa Central Hotel (CCH), which is located in the heart of the city. CCH is part of Crown & Champa Resorts, who own seven resorts throughout the Maldives.

Outside the hotel the city streets are chaotic, busy and congested – but inside, there’s a relaxed air of calm – and, in a city that’s tight on space (almost claustrophobic at times), the rooms at CCH are wonderfully spacious.

A buffet breakfast is served each morning in the top floor restaurant and a rooftop terrace is open every evening – a great place to watch the sunset over the city. Transfers are provided between the hotel and the ferry dock.

The spacious and quiet rooms at the Champa Central hotel in central Malé offer a welcome respite from the over-crowded streets outside.

Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa

Interior of my beautiful Beach Villa at Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.

The 4* Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa offers 184 spacious, well-appointed rooms in four different categories:

Jacuzzi Water Villas (85 sqm – located over the water)
Jacuzzi Beach Villas (65 sqm)
Beach Villas (55 sqm)
Garden Rooms (55sqm)

The level of service at Vilamendhoo was outstanding – they even have their own water bottling plant.

I stayed in room #195 which was a Beach Villa. Fronting the beach and surrounded by a lush, well tendered garden, the villa was nicely decorated in a tropical style and very comfortable with free WiFi, cable TV and all mod cons.

My semi-outdoor bathroom at Vilamendhoo, well-ventilated and spacious.

My room included a large, semi-outdoor bathroom which is perfect in a tropical environment.

The ‘Jacuzzi Water Villas’ at Vilamendhoo Resort are accessed via an over-the-water boardwalk.

For those looking for something more exclusive and deluxe, the Jacuzzi Beach Villas are built over the water in the ‘adults only’ zone. The villas offer views of the lagoon, private sundeck and Jacuzzi for two with each villa providing access to the reef.

The following YouTube video provides a virtual tour of a Vilamendhoo beach villa:

Video tours of other room types are available on YouTube.

Maafushi Island

An island on the move, the many new hotels on Maafushi are being built to the 7-floor allowable limit.

Currently Maafushi Island is the most popular ‘inhabited’ island where independent travellers have a choice of accommodation from inexpensive guest houses to more deluxe hotels.

Many new hotels are currently under construction with most being built to the 7-story limit set by the government (which is six stories higher than most other buildings on the island).

While on Maafushi, I stayed at the family-run Lily Rest guest house which offers eight comfortable guest rooms. Accommodation options and prices can be found on the usual OTA (Online Travel Agent) sites such as booking.com.

Eating Out

Freshly caught Tuna is found on most restaurant menus on Maafushi Island.

Maldivian cuisine is based on three key ingredients – fish (Skipjack Tuna is the local favourite), coconuts and starches. The cuisine has been influenced through the centuries through contact with Arab, Indian and other traders.

Malé

There’s no shortage of restaurants in Malé, with well-priced buffet lunches allowing visitors the opportunity to sample various Maldivian dishes. One of my favourite places is the Sea House cafe which overlooks the Airport ferry dock and offers a good buffet lunch for 120 MVR.

Koththu Hut

It’s hard to miss the green façade of Koththu Hut in downtown Malé.

In the heart of the concrete jungle that is downtown Malé, it’s impossible to miss the very green façade of Koththu Hut which serves a selection of Maldivian dishes, specialising in grilled meats.

Vilamendhoo Resort

The sand-floor, Ahima buffet restaurant, one of several restaurants at Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.

Restaurants

Thrice daily buffets are included in the room rate and are served in two ‘sister’ restaurants (loved the sand floors) which serve the same meals; the Funama restaurant caters to families while the Ahima restaurant is in the ‘adults-only’ section of the island.

I ate my meals at the Ahima restaurant where the service, selection, variety and quality of food was outstanding. Just to keep the offering interesting (most people are here for at least a week), different theme nights are held with Friday being Maldivian night, offering guests the opportunity to sample delicious Maldivian cuisine.

Flags out for the Maldivian night at the Ahima restaurant at Vilamendhoo Island Resort and Spa.

You would think with all the diving and snorkeling that I would have lost weight at Vilamendhoo, but no – the food was far too good so I gained a few pounds. You can view a sample Buffet menu here.

Temptation everywhere! The divine offerings at the Vilamendhoo Island Resort are not conducive to dieting!

If you wish to take a break from the buffet offerings, there are two ‘optional’ à la carte restaurants to choose from:

Asian Wok Restaurant – An over-the-water restaurant with a menu specialising in Asian cuisine.
Hot Rock Restaurant – A restaurant whose menu features local seafood, chicken, steak and more all of which is cooked on ‘hot rocks’ at your table.

Bars

Comfortable lounges line the sand floor of the Sunset Bar at Vilamendhoo Resort.

Being a private-island resort, alcohol is freely available at Vilamendhoo, who provide four bars to keep their guests hydrated:

Bonthi bar – Located next to the Funama restaurant, this is the main bar and the venue for nightly activities.
Sunset bar – located in the ‘adults only’ section of the island, next to the Ahima restaurant and Sunset pool.
Boashi bar – located next to the Boashi pool in the ‘family’ section of the island.
Asian Wok bar – not surprisingly – this bar is located in the Asian Wok restaurant.

For more on Vilamendhoo, refer to the ‘Deluxe Travel – Vilamendhoo Resort’ section above.

Maafushi Island

Illuminated palms at the Summer Kitchen & Bakery on Maafushi Island.

Various hotels on Maafushi offer dinner buffets for US$15, serving international and local fare. If you prefer beach-side dining while listening to live music, the Arena Beach Hotel is the place to be. The Summer Cafe and Bakery is owned by Chinese expatriate Summer who offers delicious Chinese meals made from local seafood. The Stingray cafe offers a selection of traditional Maldivian food, including a flavourful tuna curry.

Mas Huni

Freshly made Mas Huni with roti, served at breakfast by my guest house on Maafushi Island.

Mas Huni is a typical Maldivian breakfast dish, composed of tuna, onion, coconut, and chili.

All ingredients are finely chopped and mixed with the grated meat of the coconut. This dish is usually eaten with freshly baked roti flatbread and sweetened hot tea.

Recipe

1 cup diced smoked tuna
1 cup scraped coconut
1 finely chopped onion
1 finely chopped Chinese capsicum
Lime juice and salt to taste

Mash together the onions, capsicum, lime juice and salt.
Mix in the tuna until it is well combined and add the coconut.
Serve with roti bread.

Visa Requirements

Maldives passport stamps.

The visa policy of the Maldives is wonderfully straight-forward with every nationality being granted a 30-day stay. The two exceptions to this rule are for Indian nationals (who can stay for 90 days) and nationals of Brunei who are granted a 15-day stay.

Getting There

Air

A view of Velana International airport which is currently undergoing an $800-million expansion.

International flights arrive at Velana International Airport, which is located on the island of Hulhulé – 1.3 km across the water from Malé.

Thanks to the introduction of services by low cost carriers, reaching the Maldives is now more affordable than ever. If you’re in SE Asia, AirAsia (sigh!) offer cheap return flights from KL as do Scoot (better!) from Singapore. From Thailand, Bangkok Airways and Thai AirAsia offer regular services.

The airport serves as the base for the national carrier – Maldivian – who operate International and domestic flights.

The following airlines provide scheduled services to/ from Velana International Airport:

Aeroflot – flies between Moscow–Sheremetyevo
AirAsia – flies between Kuala Lumpur–International
Air France – flies between Paris–Charles de Gaulle
Air India – flies between Bangalore, Delhi, Thiruvananthapuram
Bangkok Airways – flies between Bangkok–Suvarnabhumi
Beijing Capital Airlines – flies between Beijing–Capital
Cathay Pacific – flies between Hong Kong
China Eastern Airlines – flies between Colombo, Kunming, Shanghai–Pudong
China Southern Airlines – flies between Colombo, Guangzhou
Condor – flies between Frankfurt
Emirates – flies between Colombo, Dubai–International
Etihad Airways – flies between Abu Dhabi
Flydubai – flies between Colombo, Dubai–International
Flyme – flies between Dharavandhoo, Maamigili
Korean Air – flies between Colombo, Seoul–Incheon
Maldivian – flies between Bangkok–Suvarnabhumi, Changsha, Chengdu, Chennai, Chongqing, Dhaka, Dharavandhoo, Fuvahmulah, Fuzhou, Gan, Hanimaadhoo, Hangzhou, Kaadedhdhoo, Kadhdhoo, Kooddoo, Nanjing, Thimarafushi, Thiruvananthapuram, Wuhan, Xi’an
Qatar Airways – flies between Doha
Saudia – flies between Riyadh, Jeddah, Colombo
Scoot – flies between Singapore
SilkAir – flies between Singapore
Singapore Airlines – flies between Singapore
Spicejet – flies between Kochi, Thiruvananthapuram
SriLankan Airlines – flies between Colombo
Thai AirAsia – flies between Bangkok–Don Mueang
Turkish Airlines – flies between Istanbul–Atatürk

Airport Expansion

Land on Hulhule Island is being reclaimed by a Chinese contractor as part of the airport expansion project.

Velana International airport is currently undergoing an $800-million expansion (mostly funded by the Chinese government) which will include a longer runway. The new runway, which can accommodate the world’s largest passenger airliner – the Airbus A380, will be operational by mid-2018.

Additionally, a new terminal will cater for up to seven million passengers per year and a new Chinese-funded bridge will provide a road link from the airport to downtown Malé.

A view of the Chinese-built <i>SinaMalé</i> Bridge, which was under construction at the time of my visit in 2017. It opened in August of 2018.

A view of the Chinese-built SinaMalé Bridge, which was under construction at the time of my visit in 2017. It opened in August of 2018.

Resort Transfers

Most hotels and resorts maintain a booth at the airport, providing smooth transfers to their respective properties either by seaplane or boat.

Seaplane Transfers

Trans Maldivian Airways (TMA) operate the largest fleet of seaplanes in the world.

The Maldives is home to the biggest seaplane operation in the world with flights operated by Trans Maldivian Airways (TMA). All check-in procedures take place in the International terminal with passengers being transferred in mini-buses (luggage is transferred in separate vans) to the seaplane terminal on the opposite side of the island. Refer to the ‘Getting Around – Air‘ section below for more details.

Boat Transfers

Resort Transfers

If you’re staying at a resort located close to the airport, you’ll be transferred by boat, with all boats departing from the front of the airport.

Maafushi Transfers

If you’re staying on Maafushi Island, you can reach the island in 30 minutes by speedboat directly from the airport. There are currently three operators offering frequent services to Maafushi Island – refer to the ‘Getting Around – Speedboat‘ section below for more details.

Airport – Malé Ferry

The airport ferry dock and waterfront in downtown Malé.

Prior to the completion of the Chinese-built SinaMalé Bridge in mid-2018, the only way to reach Malé from the Airport was via the popular Airport ferry. The journey from the airport to the centre of Malé is just just 10-minutes with a ticket costing 10 MVR.

Riding on the airport ferry from the airport to Malé which is a 10-minute crossing.

Despite the completion of the bridge, the very popular ferry still remains a favourite form of transport for those travelling to the airport, offering a fast and convenient connection between the airport and city centre.

The Airport ferry docked outside Velana International airport.

Ferries depart as per the following timetable:

From the Airport to Malé (all days, except Friday)
– Every 10 minutes from 06:00 am to 02:30 am
– Every 30 minutes from 02:30 am to 04:00 am
– Every 15 minutes from 04:00 am to 06:00 am
From Malé to the Airport (all days, except Friday)
– Every 10 minutes from 06:00 am to 02:30 am
– Every 30 minutes from 02:30 am to 04:00 am
– Every 15 minutes from 04:00 am to 06:00 am
On Fridays ferries operate every 10 minutes from 06:00 am to 00:00 am

Getting Around

A spectacular view from the window of my TMA flight en-route to Vilamendhoo resort.

Air

A TMA seaplane landing at Vilamendhoo Resort and Spa.

The Maldives offer many spectacular resorts, most of which are located on secluded, remote islands far from Malé. The only feasible (i.e. timely) way of reaching these resorts is via seaplane with almost all flights operated by Trans Maldivian Airways.

A TMA De Havilland Twin Otter at Vilamendhoo Resort and Spa.

With a fleet of 48 (18-seater) de Havilland Twin Otters, TMA operate the largest seaplane fleet in the world and offer a comprehensive network of daily flights throughout the archipelago.

A TMA seaplane at Vilamendhoo resort.

All seaplane transfers are made during daylight hours, and offer spectacular views of the atolls, islands, reefs and lagoons.

The cost of a ticket is between US$250 and US$450 return, depending on the distance and the arrangement made with the resort with the ticket price generally included in the resort package price.

Ferry

The Maafushi Ferry docked at the Viligili Ferry Terminal in Malé.

Ferries are an important mode of transport in this atoll nation with most services originating in Malé. The ferry to Maafushi (2 hours/ 30 MVR) departs from Jetty 1 at the Viligili Ferry Terminal in Malé each day (except Friday) at 3 pm with a stop en-route at Gulhi island. While the ferry provides a passenger service its more important function is that of a freight service, with the boat normally packed to the rafters with all sorts of goods.

The Maafushi ferry is not just a passenger ferry! It provides an important freight service (including car carrying) to the island.

Speedboats

The fast and comfortable speedboat to Maafushi Island.

Speedboats to various destinations provide a faster, more comfortable, connection than the slower ferries, with most boats departing directly from the the airport and/ or the dock in downtown Malé.

Comfortable, frequent speedboats connect Maafushi island to the airport and downtown Malé, with the 30 minute passage costing (for foreigners) US$25. Services are provided by the following (Maafushi-based) operators:

Maafushi Tours – Offers four daily transfers each way. Check their website for the current schedule.
iCom Tours – Offers three daily transfers each way. Check their website for the current schedule and seat availability for each sailing.
Arena Hotel – Offers three daily transfers each way. Check their website for the current schedule.

Taxi

Taxi’s on Malé cost just a couple of dollars to any destination on the island.

Unmetered taxi’s (fares should be confirmed in advance) are available in Malé with most destinations on the island costing 20-30 MVR with an extra charge of 5 MVR for luggage.

Motorbikes

Scooters are everywhere in congested Malé.

The most popular form of transport on congested Malé is the motorbike, with an estimated 15,000 registered bikes (representing 1 bike for every 6 residents) buzzing around the tiny, crowded island.

Maldives Car Rental Myth

While you can search online for ‘Maldives Car Rental‘ – and you will receive results from all the usual websites – once you click through you will find that, strangely, there are no rental cars available. That’s because there are no rental cars in the Maldives. The only urban area in the country is the densely packed capital of Malé which is best explored on foot, most of the other islands have no roads.

Bus

There are no bus services in the Maldives.

That’s the end of my Maldives Travel Guide.

I look forward to hearing feedback from you if you use this guide for your visit to the Maldives.

Safe Travels!

Darren

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Introduction

Location

Currency

Costs

Philately

People

Flag

Sightseeing

Mahé

Victoria

Beau Vallon

Takamaka Rum Distillery

Anse Royale

Baie Lazare

Port Launay Marine Park

Praslin

Anse Volbert

Scuba Diving

Anse Lazio

Vallée de Mai

Anse Takamaka

Anse Georgette

La Digue

L’Union Estate Farm

Anse Source d’Argent

Grand Anse Beach

Petite Anse Beach

Notre Dame de L’Assomption Church

Accommodation

Mahé

Praslin

La Digue

Eating Out

Restaurants

Mahé

Victoria

Praslin

La Digue

Cafés

Mahé

Praslin

Bars

Visa Requirements

Immigration

Getting There

Air

Airport Transport

Cruise Ships

Getting Around

Public Transport

Taxi

Ferry

Rental Car

Mahé

Praslin

Further Reading

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Introduction

The Dodo

Location

Currency

Costs

Flag

People

Indian Indentured Labourers

Sightseeing

Port Louis

Le Caudan Waterfront

Craft Market

Blue Penny Museum

Mauritius Postal Museum

The Photographic Museum

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